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CENSUS  REPORTS 

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nitniR  Fypftrimflnt  Stitlon 
University  of  Califomlt 

TWELFTH  CENSUS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 
TAKEN  IN  THE  YEAR   i  qqo 

WILLIAM  R.  MERRIAM,  DIRECTOR 


MANUFACTURES 


TEXTILES 

-ibrar)' 

Citrus  Lxperiment  Station 

University  of  California 

PREPARED   UNDER   THE   SUPERVISION   OF   S.   N.   D.   NORTH, 
CHIEF  STATISTICIAN    FOR   MANUFACTURES 


WASHINGTON 

UNITED  STATES  CENSUS  OFFICE 

I  902 


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TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Letter  of  transmittal  of  chief  statistician  for  manufactures  to  the  Director  of  the  Census ix 

Combined  textiles.     By  Edward  Stanwood 1-16 

The  textile  industry  of  the  United  State>! 3-16 

General  discussion 3, 4 

The  position  of  tlie  United  States  among  nations  in  tlie  manufacture  of  textiles 4-8 

Table  1.  —  Domestic  products,  exports,  imports,  and  consumption,  1870  to  1900 5 

A  general  survey  of  the  textile  industry 8, 9 

Table  2. — Comparative  summary,  by  industries,  1850  to  1900 8 

Table  3. — Percent  of  increase  in  average  number  of  wage-earners  and  in  value  of  products,  1850  to  1900 .  9 

Number  of  establishments 9 

The  general  growth  in  twenty  years '■ 9, 10 

Table  4. — Comparative  summary,  1880  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increa.se 10 

Capital  invested 10, 11 

Table  5. — Comparative  summary  of  capital,  1840  to  1900 10 

Cost  of  materials  and  value  of  products 11,12 

Table  6. — Cost  of  materials  and  value  of  products,  1890  and  1900 11 

Table  7. — Comparative  summary,  value  of  products,  1810  to  1900 11 

Consumption  of  textile  fibers 12 

Table  8.— Consumption  of  textile  tibers,  1840  to  1900 12 

Employees  and  their  wages 12, 13 

Table  9. — Average  number  of  wage-earners  and  total  wages,  by  industries,  1900 12 

Table  10. — Average  number  of  wage-earnere  and  proportion  of  men,  women,  and  children,  1880  to  1900 13 

Geographic  distribution  13-16 

Table  11. — Comparative  summary,  by  states  arranged  geographically,  1880  to  1900 14, 15 

Cotton  manufactures.    By  Edward  Stanwood 17-72 

General  discussion 19-21 

The  foreign  trade  in  cotton  goods 21-26 

Table  1. — Annual  imports  of  manufactures  of  cotton,  1821  to  1900,  inclusive 21, 22 

Table  2. — Annual  exports  of  manufactures  of  cotton,  1826  to  1900,  inclusive 23,  24 

Table  3. — Annual  exports  of  foreign  manufactures  of  cotton,  1821  to  1900,  inclusive 25, 26 

The  general  progress  of  the  industry 27-72 

Table  4. — Comparative  summary,  1840  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increase 27 

Table  5. — Comljined  summary,  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares,  1900,  with  jjercentages 27 

Geographic  distribution  of  the  industry 28-30 

Table  6. — Number  of  spindles  in  cotton  mills  within  30  miles  of  Providence,  R.  I 30 

Capital 30,31 

Table  7. — Capital,  by  geographic  divisions,  with  per  cent  of  increase,  1890  and  1900 30 

Table  8.— Comparison  of  capital  of  corporations,  as  reported  at  census,  by  states  and  geographic  divisions,  1900 31 

Employees  and  wages 31-33 

Table  9.— Average  number  of  wage-earners — men,  women,  and  children — by  geographic  divisions,  1880  to  1900 32 

Table  10. — Wage-earners — percentage  of  men,  women,  and  children — by  geographic  divisions,  1880  to  1900 32 

Skilled  operatives 33 

Wages 33 

Miscellaneous  expenses 33 

Table  11. — Comparative  summary,  miscellaneous  expenses,  1890  and  1900 33 


iv  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS, 

Cotton  manufactures— Continued. 

The  general  progress  of  the  industry — Continued.  Page. 

Materials  used 33-38 

Cotton 33, 34 

"Other  domestic"  cotton 34-36 

Table  12. — Quantities  of  raw  cotton  produced,  imported,  exported,  and  retained  for  consumption,  18S0  to  1900 35 

Table  13. — Quantity  and  cost  of  domestic  cotton,  other  than  sea-island,  eon.'^umed,  by  states  geographically  arranged, 

1880  to  1900 35, 36 

Sea-island  cotton 36, 37 

Egyptian  cotton 37 

Yarn  purchased 37 

Yarns  other  than  cotton 37,  38 

Other  materials 38 

Products 38, 39 

Table  14.— Products  of  cotton  mills  in  detail,  1890  and  1900 38 

Materials  and  products  twice  reported _ 39, 40 

Dyeing  and  finishing 40 

Table  15.— Dyeing  and  finishing  in  cotton  mills  and  in  independent  establishments,  1900 40 

Fineness  of  goods — average  number  of  yarn 41, 42 

Table  16. — Yarns  spun,  classified  by  grade,  by  states  geographically  arranged,  1890  and  1900 42 

Power 42, 43 

Machinery '. 43,  44 

The  progress  of  the  industry  as  indicated  by  the  number  of  spindles 44-48 

Table  17. — Number  of  active  cotton  spindles  in  the  textile  industry,  by  states  geographically  arranged,  1.S90  and  1900  . .  45 

Table  18. — Number  of  spindles  in  cotton  mills,  by  states  geographically  arranged,  18S0,  1890,  and  1900 46 

Table  19. — Number  of  frame  spindles  sold,  January  1,  1890,  to  January  1,  1900 48 

Consumption  of  cotton  per  spindle 48-50 

Table  20. — Number  of  spindles  to  eacli  wage-earner,  and  the  amount  paid  for  labor  to  each  spindle,  by  states  geo- 
graphically arranged,  1880  to  1900 49, 50 

Looms - 50-52 

Table  21. — Number  and  classification  of  looms,  by  geographic  divisions,  1890  and  1900 51 

Table  22. — Number  and  capacity  of  spinning  mills,  weaving  mills,  and  mills  which  do  both  spinning  and  weaving,  by 

states  geographically  arranged,  1900 52 

Mercerization ,52, 53 

Table  23. — Comjiarative  summary,  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares,  by  states  and  territories  geographically  arranged, 

1840  to  1900 54-59 

Table  24. — Detailed  summary,  by  states  geographically  arranged,  1900 60-69 

Cotton  small  wares 70-72 

Table  25.— Summary 70 

Table  26. — Detailed  summary,  by  states,  1900 71,  72 

Wool  manufactures,  also  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  shoddy,  and  fur  hats.     By  William  J.  Battison 73-195 

Table  1. — Wool  manufacture,  including  hosiery  and  knit  goods:  comparative  summary,  1880  to  1900,  with  percentages  of 

increase 75 

Table  2. — Wool  manufacture,  including  hosiery  and  knit  goods:  comparative  summary,  educational,  eleemosynary,  and  penal 

institutions,  1890  and  1900 76 

The  wool  manufacture 76-108 

Table  3.— Comparative  summary,  1850  to  1900 76 

Conditions  in  1900 77 

Imports  of  wool 77,  78 

Imi>orts  of  wool  goods 78 

Rank  of  states  in  wool  manufacture  according  to  value  of  )iioducts 78,  79 

Table  4.— Rank  of  states,  by  value  of  products,  1890  and  1900 78 

Table  5.— Machinery  of  wool  manufacture:  1880  to  1900 79 

Carding  mills 79-82 

Table  6. — Wool  carding:  comparative  summary,  by  states,  1 S90  and  1900 80 

Comparison  of  mills  by  sets  of  cards 81, 82 

Table  7. — Number  of  mills  according  to  sets  of  cards,  1890  and  1900 81 

The  card  wool  manufacture 82, 83 

Table  8.— Carding  machinery:  by  states,  1870  to  1900 83 

The  worsted  manufacture S3, 84 

Table  9.— Number  of  combing  machines,  by  states,  1870  to  1900  83 

Spindles ' 84 

Doubling  spindles 84, 85 

Productive  capacity 85 

Idle  capital  and  machinery .>v5,  86 

Table  10.— Idle  capital  and  machinery,  by  states,  1900 85 

Power 86 

Table  11.— Power  and  labor,  1880  to  1900 86 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS.  v 

Wool  MANrPAcrrREs,  etc. — Continued. 

The  wool  niitniifaiiure — Continued.  Page. 

Depreciation  of  plant 86  87 

Capital 87 

Wage-earners  and  wages 87 

Conditions  of  wage-earners 87 

Materials  uned  in  the  tmol  manufacture 88-97 

Table  12. — Kind,  quantity,  and  cost  of  materials  used,  1900 88 

Net  wool  supply,  foreign  and  domestic 88  89 

Domestic  wool 89 

Imports  of  foreign  wool,  1822  to  1900 89-91 

The  foreign  sources  of  wool  supplies 91 

Class  III  wools  and  imports  of,  by  countries  of  production 91 

Class  I  wools  and  imports  of,  by  countries  of  proiluction 91, 92 

Class  II  wools  and  imports  of,  by  countries  of  production 92 

Wools  entered  for  consumption 92, 93 

Table  13. — Wools  entered  for  consumption  in  the  United  States,  1867  to  1900,  by  class,  quantity,  and  value 92 

Wool  consumption 93  94 

Cotton  and  cotton  yarns 94, 95 

Shoddy 95 

Average  cost  of  scoured  wool 95. 96 

Dyestuffs  and  chemicals 96 

Yarns,  purchased 96, 97 

Dyeing  and  finishing 97 

Products 97-108 

G ross  and  net  \alues 97-99 

Table  14. — Kind,  quantity,  and  value  of  products,  1890  and  1900,  with  per  cent  of  increase  98 

Class  I. — Woolen  goods !:i9-101 

Table  15. — Comparative  summary,  1840  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increase 99 

Cloths,  cassimeres,  etc 100 

Union  or  mixed  goods  for  men's  wear 100 

Cotton  warp  goods 100 

Flannels 100,  101 

Blankets 101 

Shawls 101 

Woolen  dress  goods 101 

Class  II. — Worsted  goods 101-104 

Table  16. — Comparative  summary,  1860  to  1900,  with  per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade 102 

Worsted  cloths 102,  103 

Dress  goods 103 

Worsted  dress  goods 103 

Woolen  dress  goods 103,  104 

Braids 104 

Flushes  and  pile  fabrics 104 

Class  111. — Carpets  and  carpeting 104-107 

Table  17. — Comparative  summary,  1850  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increase    105 

Materials  consumed ,. 106 

Production 106,  107 

Class  I  v.— Felt  goods 107, 108 

Table  18. — Comparative  summary,  1880  to  1900,  w^ith  percentages  of  increase 107 

Class  v.— Wool  bats 108 

Table  19. — Comparative  summary,  1880  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increase 108 

The  fur  hat  manufacture 108-111 

Table  20.— Summary  for  1900 109 

Process  of  manufacture  and  history 109-111 

Wool  scouring  and  wool  pulling Ill,  112 

Table  21. — Wool  scouring:  summary  for  1900 Ill 

Table  22.— Wool  pulling:  summary  for  1900 Ill 

Shoddi/  manufacture 112-114 

Table  23. — Comparative  summary,  1860  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increase 112 

Table  24. — Comparative  summary,  by  states,  1880  to  1900 113 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 114-119 

Table  25. — Comparative  summary,  1850  to  1900,  with  percentages  of  increase 114 

Establishments 114, 115 

Capital 115 

Machinery 115, 116 

Table  26.— Number  and  width  of  cards,  by  states,  1900 115 

Table  27. — Number  of  mills  according  to  sets  of  cards,  1890  and  1900 116 


vi  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 

Wool  manttfactukes,  etc. — Continued. 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods — Continued.  Page. 

Spindles 116 

The  industry  by  geographic  divi.«iuns 117 

New  England  and  the  Middle  states 117 

Western  states 117 

Southern  states 117 

Materials  used 117, 118 

Dyestuffs,  chemicals,  etc 118 

Products 118,119 

Table  28. — Kind,  quantity,  and  value  of  products,  1890  and  1900 118, 119 

Conclusion 119-121 

Table  29. — Wool  manufacture  (excluding  husiery  and  knit  goods):  comparative  summary  by  states  and  territories  arranged 

geographically,  1840  to  1900 122-129 

Table  30. — Wool  manufactures  (excluding  hosiery  and  knit  goods) :  summary  by  classes,  1900 130-137 

Table  31. — Woolen  goods:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 138-153 

Table  32. — Worsted  goods:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 154-157 

Table  33. — Carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 157-160 

Table  34.— Felt  goods:  detailed  summary  by  .states,  1900 160-162 

Table  35.— Wool  hats:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 162-163 

Table  36. — Carding  mills:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 164-169 

Table  37. — Wool  scouring:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 170 

Table  38. — Wool  pulling:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 171 

Table  39.— Shoddy :  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 172-175 

Table  40.— Fur  hats:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 176, 177 

Table  41. — Hosiery  and  knit  goods:  comparative  summary  by  states  arranged  geographically,  1850  to  1900 178-183 

Table  42. — Hosiery  and  knit  goods:  detailed  summary  by  states,  1900 184-195 

Silk  .manufactures.     By  Franklin  Allen 197-233 

Table  1.— Comparative  summary,  1850  to  1900,  with  per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade 199 

Table  2. — Summary  of  establishments  w-ith  a  product  exceeding  1500  and  those  with  a  product  of  less  than  $500 200 

Materials  and  products  twice  included 200-202 

Table  3. — Elimination  of  materials  and  products  twice  included,  by  states,  1890  and  1900 200 

Imports  and  consumption  of  silk  and  silk  goods 202, 203 

Table  4. — Comparative  summary  of  imported  silk  materials,  and  of  imported  and  domestic  manufactured  silk  goods,  1850 

to  1900 ." ■ 202 

Materials  and  products,  1890  and  1900 203-209 

Table  5. — Comparative  summary  of  materials  and  products,  1890  and  1900 203 

Table  6. — Comparative  summary  of  materials,  1890  and  1900 , 204 

Sewing  silk  and  machine  twist 205 

Broad  silk  weaving 205-208 

Table  7. — Broad  silk  weaving  mills,  classified  by  number  of  looms,  1900 206 

Velvets 206,207 

Plushes - 207, 208 

Table  8.— Silk  broad  goods  manufactured,  1900 207 

Table  9. — Velvet  and  plush  weaving  mills,  classified  by  number  of  looms,  1900 208 

Silk  ribbons 208 

Table  10. — Silk  ribbon  weaving  mills,  classified  by  number  of  looms,  1900 208 

Throwing  spindles 208,209 

Table  11. — Mills  classified  by  number  of  throwing  spindles,  1900 208 

Finished  silk  goods 209 

Comparative  statistics  by  states 209, 210 

Table  12.— Comparative  summary,  by  states,  1880,1890,  and  1900 210 

Capital 211 

Taljie  13. — Comparative  summary  of  capital,  by  states,  1890  and  1900 211 

Wage-earners  and  operatives  employed 212, 213 

Table  14. — Comparative  summary  of  wage-earners,  by  states,  1870  to  1900 212 

Table  15. — Wage-earners  classified  by  occupation,  by  states,  1900 212 

Counties  leading  in  silk  manufacture 213 

Table  16.  — Counties  manufacturing  products  exceeding  11,000,000  in  value,  1900 213 

Braids  and  trimmings 213, 214 

Table  17. — Summary  by  states,  with  cost  of  textile  materials,  classified  by  principal  textile  components,  1900 213, 214 

Skein  dyeing,  piece  dyeing,  printing,  and  finishing 214-216 

Table  18. — Skein  dyeing  in  silk  mills  and  dyeing  plants,  for  silk  manufacture,  by  states,  1900 214 

Table  19. — Piece  dyeing  in  silk  mills  and  dyeing  plants,  for  silk  manufacture,  by  states,  1900 214 

Table  20. — Silk  printing  in  silk  mills  and  silk-printing  plants,  for  silk  manivfacture,  by  states,  1900 215 

Table  21. — Silk  finishing  in  silk  mills  and  silk-finishing  plants,  for  silk  manufacture,  by  states,  1900 215 

Skein  dyeing 215,  216 

Piece  dyeing,  printing,  and  finishing 216 

Silk  printing 216 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  vii 

Silk  manufactures — Continued.  P^„g 

Capacity  of  American  mills 216   217 

Relative  position  of  France  and  the  United  States 217   218 

World's  raw  silk  supply 21 S,  219 

Table  22. — World'.'!  production  of  raw  silk,  in  kilograms  and  in  pounds 218 

Detailed  statistics  of  silk  manufacture 219 

Historical  and  descriptive 220-225 

General  survey 220-222 

Improvements  m  throwing  and  weaving  machinery 222-224 

Throwing 222,  223 

Weaving 223,  224 

Date  of  the  establishment  of  the  silk  industry  in  cities,  towns,  etc 224,  225 

Table  23. — Silk  and  silk  goods,  including  braids  and  trimmings,  detailed  summary,  by  states,  1900 2'.'6-233 

Flax,  he.mp,  and  jute  products.     By  Edward  Stanwood 235-242 

Table  1. — Comparative  summary,  1890  and  1900 237 

Table  2. — Summary  by  states,  1900 237 

Table  3.— Kind,  quantity,  and  cost  of  materials  used,  1900 238 

Table  4. — Kind,  quantity,  and  value  of  products,  1900 238 

Cordage  and  twine 2:!8,  239 

Table  5. — Comparative  summary,  1880  to  1900 238 

Table  6. — Kind,  quantity,  and  cost  of  materials  used,  1900 239 

Table  7. — Kind,  quantity,  and  value  of  products,  1900 239 

Jute  and  jute  goods 239,  240 

Table  8.— Summary,  1900 239 

Table  9. — Kind,  quantity,  and  cost  of  materials  used,  1900 240 

Table  10. — Kind,  quantity,  and  value  of  products,  1900 240 

Linen  manufacture 240,  241 

Table  11.— Comparative  summary,  1890  and  1900 240 

Table  12. — Kind,  quantity,  and  cost  of  materials  used,  1900 240 

Table  13. — Kind,  quantity,  and  value  of  products,  1900 240 

Table  14. — Flax,  hemp,  and  jute  products:  detailed  summary,  by  states,  1900 241,  242 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles.     By  Edward  Stanwood 243-257 

Table  1. — Comparative  summary,  1850  to  1900,  with  per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade 246 

Table  2.— Comparative  summary,  by  states,  1890  and  1900 247 

Table  3. — Comparative  summary,  kinds  and  quantity  of  goods  operated  ujion,  and  value  added  by  independent  establishments, 

1890  and  1900 248 

Table  4.— Summary  by  classes  of  textiles,  1900 250, 251 

Table  5. — Detailed  summary,  by  states,  1900 252-257 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL. 


Department  of  the  Interior, 

Census  Office,  Washington,  D.  C, 

July  31,  1902. 
Sir: 

1  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith  the  text  and  tables  of  a  special  report  upon  the  textile  industries  of 
the  United  States,  as  returned  at  the  Twelfth  Census. 

Reports  upon  these  industries  were  prepared  under  my  direction  bj"  expert  special  agents  of  the  division  of 
manufactures,  as  follows:  Upon  combined  textiles;  cotton  manufactures;  flax,  hemp,  and  jute  products;  and 
dyeing  and  tinishing  textiles,  b}^  Mr.  Edward  Stanwood;  upon  wool  manufactures,  by  Mr.  William  J.  Battison; 
and  upon  silk  manufactures,  by  Mr.  Franklin  Allen. 

In  view  of  the  importance  of  the  industry,  the  several  branches  of  which  have  been  presented  in  separate 
bulletins,  it  is  deemed  advisable  to  bring  together  these  several  reports  and  publish  them  as  a  monograph,  thus 
presenting  as  a  separate  publication  the  complete  statistics  of  the  textile  industries  of  the  couutiy. 
Very  respectfully, 


Chief  Statistician  for  Manufactures. 
Hon.  W11X.IAM  R.  Merriam, 

Director  of  the  Cerisus. 
MON text II  (ix) 


TEXTILES. 


COMBINED   TEXTILES. 

COTTON   MANUFACTURES. 

WOOL   MANUFACTURES. 

SILK   MANUFACTURES. 

FLAX,   HEMP,   AND  JUTE   PRODUCTS. 

DYEING    AND    FINISHING   TEXTILES. 


(1) 

MON TKXT 1 


THE  TEXTILE  INDUSTRY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


By  Edward  Stanwood,  Expert  Special  Agent. 


Not  only  is  the  textile  industry  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant branches  of  manufacture  in  this  country  and 
throughout  the  world,  but  its  product  comes  into  an 
especially  intimate  and  personal  relation  to  mankind 
because  it  is  the  material  from  which  clothing  is  com- 
monh'  made.  IfrlappBali's  from  the  returns  at  the  census 
of  1900  that  thetigrandiitotal  value  of  textiles  and  of 
finished  articles  madeifrom  them  was  $1,637,484,484. 
The  sum  is  swelleifiubydduplications.  Yarn  produced  in 
one  mill  and  entering  into  this  total  is  reported  by 
another  mill  as  a  material;  and  the  woven  cloth  of  the 
second  mill,  after  having  been  reported  as  that  mill's 
product,  enters  the  tailor  shop  or  the  shirt  factory  as 
material  once  more.  Eliminating  duplications,  by  ex- 
cluding from  materials  and  products  the  value  of  the 
partly  manufactured  articles,  the  net  value  of  products 
ready  for  direct  consumption  was  $1,095,127,934.  Of 
this  huge  total,  $740,666,942,  or  over  two-thirds  of  the 
whole,  was  the  net  value  of  the  textile  industry  proper. 

The  various  branches  of  the  textile  industry — the 
production  of  yarn,  and  its  conversion,  by  doubling  and 
twisting,  by  weaving,  or  by  knitting — are  so  closely 
allied  to  each  other  that  it  is  impossible  radically  to 
separate  them.  They  may  be  divided  sufficiently  for 
practical  purposes  according  to  the  processes  employed, 
or,  as  is  more  customary,  according  to  the  vegetable  or 
animal  fiber  which  predominates  in  the  manufacture. 
But  it  still  remains  true  that  several  of  the  processes 
and  different  groups  of  these  processes  are  combined, 
and  that  there  is  extensive  use  of  two  or  more  fibers 
in  single  establishments.  A  great  number,  in  fact  a 
large  majority,  of  cotton-spinning  factories,  also  weave 
their  3'arn-,  some  of  them  twist  and  finish  it  into  sewing 
thread,  others  knit  it  and  make  underwear.  Some  of 
them  combine  cotton  with  linen  in  the  manufacture 
of  towels.  Many  woolen  and  worsted  mills  mix  cotton 
with  wool  in  the  production  of  cloth.  Both  cotton  and 
woolen  mills  occasionally  use  large  quantities  of  raw 
silk.  Jute  3'arn  is  introduced  as  an  adulterant  in  up- 
holstery goods  chiefly  composed  of  more  enduring 
material.  The  manufacturers  of  cordage  and  twine 
employ  not  onlj'  flax,  hemp,  jute,  cotton,  and  other 
vegetable  fibers,  but  also,  to  a  limited  extent,  wool  and 
silk. 

While,  therefore,  it  is  a  simple  matter  to  classify 
mills  according  to  the  general  nature  of  their  business 
or  according  to  the  fiber  chiefly  used,  yet  it  is  evident 
that  the  textile  industr}'  is  to  be  considered  as  a  whole. 


A  freak  of  fashion  may  at  any  time  cause  an  excessive 
demand  for  silk  goods,  to  the  detriment  of  the  manu- 
facturers of  worsteds.  A  scarcity  of  cotton,  like  that 
which  occurred  during  the  Civil  War,  maj'  compel  peo- 
ple to  change  their  habits  and  use  woolen  products 
instead  of  cotton.  It  is  eas\'  to  substitute  articles  made 
from  another  fiber  than  that  to  which  one  has  been  ac- 
customed; indeed,  within  certain  limits,  it  is  easy  for 
manufacturers  to  operate  machiner}-  upon  another  fiber 
than  that  for  which  it  was  constructed;  so  that  the  tex- 
tile industry'  can  be  treated  adequately  only  when  it  is 
treated  as  a  unit,  based  upon  the  spindle. 

This  method  of  considering  the  textile  branch  of 
manufacturing  was  first  introduced  at  the  Eleventh 
Census.  It  is  now  even  more  reasonable  than  it  was 
ten  years  ago,  because  during  the  interval  certain  new 
combinations  of  fiber  use  have  rendeied  the  relations 
between  the  several  industries  more  intimate  than  they 
were.  As  examples,  may  be  mentioned  the  production 
in  several  large  cotton  mills  of  towels  and  toweling 
from  pure  linen  or  from  linen  and  cotton  mixed,  and 
the  use  in  silk  mills  of  mercerized  cotton  so  like  silk 
in  appearance.  These  new  features  preceded  the  tak- 
ing of  the  census  by  so  short  a  time  that  an  adequate 
inquiry  into  the  facts  was  not  made  in  all  cases,  particu- 
larly with  refei'ence  to  the  extent  of  the  new  linen 
industry. 

Ten  years  ago  the  report  upon  combined  textiles  took 
cognizance  only  of  the  manufactures  of  wool — including 
hosier}'  and  knit  goods,  cotton  and  silk — and  dyeing 
and  finishing  the  yarns  and  fabrics  made  from  them. 
In  the  present  report  the  chief  industries  based  upon 
flax,  hemp,  and  jute  are  included.  Other  impoi-tant 
changes  will  be  noticed. 

At  the  census  of  1900  there  was,  for  the  first  time,  a 
separation  of  cotton  small  wares  from  cotton  goods 
proper.  The  establishments  which  manufacture  such 
articles  as  tape  and  webbings,  shoe  lacings,  embroider- 
ies, and  the  like,  are  not  in  a  true  sense  cotton  factories. 
Few  of  them  spin  their  .yarn;  the  machinery  which  they 
employ  diflers  materially  from  that  of  ordinary  cotton 
mills,  and  they  are  for  the  most  part  small  establish- 
ments. They  belong  in  the  general  class  of  textile 
manufactories,  but  not  in  the  specific  category  of  cot- 
ton mills. 

It  is  proper  to  restore  to  the  leading  rank  the  cotton 
manufacture,  which  was  displaced  from  that  position 
during  the  Civil  War,   and  has  occupied  the  second 

(3) 


MANUFACTUKEtS. 


rank  in  official  statistics  ever  since,  mainly  because  it 
stood  second  in  the  value  of  products.  Hut  it  is  evident 
that  the  reason  why  the  nominal  value  of  wool  products 
exceeded  that  of  cotton  products  was  that  the  cost  of 
material,  pound  for  pound,  is  several  times  that  of 
cotton.  At  present  the  cotton  manufacture,  exclusive 
of  cotton  small  wares,  stands  first  in  the  amount  of 
capital,  in  the  luunherof  hands  employed,  in  the  amount 
of  wages  paid,  and  even  in  the  value  of  products;  but 
it  is  still  slightly  behind  the  wool  manufacture  in  the 
cost  of  material  used. 

The  tables  accompanying  this  report  do  not  include 
all  the  establishments  which  it  might  be  strictly  reason- 
able to  include  as  manufacturing  textiles.  The  facts 
relating  to  those  which  make  belting  and  hose  of  either 
linen  or  cotton  mixed  with  rubber,  elastic  fabrics, 
batting,  and  wadding,  and  a  few  other  articles  of  which 
these  are  tj'pes,  were  ascertained  b^'  answers  to  the 
inquiries  upon  the  general  manufacturing  schedule 
and  were  too  incomplete  in  their  specification  of  mate- 
rials used  to  be  included  in  the  accompanying  tables 
without  danger  of  misleading  results.  The  several 
industries  here  presented  are  as  follows: 

Cotton  goods. 

Cotton  small  wares. 

Worsted  goods. 

Woolen  goods. 

Woolen  carpets. 

Felt  goods. 

Wool  hats. 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

Silk  goods. 

Cordage  and  twine. 

Linen  goods. 

Jute  goods. 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles. 
The  value  of  product  reported  is  in  all  cases  the  gross 
value  at  the  mill,  save  that  in  the  case  of  d^'eing  and 
finishing   only  the    value   added   by  the   processes   to 
which  the  goods  were  subjected  is  reported. 

THE    POSITION    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES    AMONG    NATIONS 
IN    THE    MANUFACTURE    OF    TEXTILES. 

In  the  manufacture  of  textiles  the  progress  of  this 
country  as  compared  with  that  of  the  world  at  large 
has  been  very  great  in  recent  years.  In  general, 
manufacturers  may  be  said  to  have  been  engaged 
r'uring  the  whole  national  history  in  conquering  and 
occupying  the  home  market.  The  domestic  silk  in- 
dustry is  a  thing  of  yesterday.  In  1870  the  home 
manufacture  represented  a"  value  of  only  1^12.210,662. 
The  foreign  value  of  importations  during  the  samej'ear 
was  $24,219,981.  It  appears  from  these  figures  that 
almost  two-thirds  of  the  silk  goods  consumed  in  the 
United  States  at  that  time  was  of  foreign  manufacture. 

The  wool  industr}'  existed  in  the  country  even  before 
the  era  of  national  independence  In  the  year  1870 
the  value  of  products  of  domestic  manufactures  of  wool 


was  ^199,257,262:  that  of  imported  was  *35.032,628, 
or  15  per  cent  of  the  consumption  of  the  United  States, 
on  the  basis  of  declared  foreign  value.  The  manufacture 
of  cotton  has  been  conducted  on  a  large  scale  for  nearh^  a 
tenjtury.  Before  the  Civil  War  it  became  a  lea<ling 
article  of  export.  Nevertheless,  the  importation  even 
then  was  of  more  value  than  the  exportation.  In  the 
year  1870,  selected  for  the  present  comparison  in  all 
the  textiles,  the  value  of  the  domestic  manufacture  of 
cotton  was  reported  to  be  $177,489,739,  and  the  value 
imported  was  §21,899,120,  or  11.2  per  cent  of  the  total 
amount  consumed. 

Combining  the  three  textile  industries,  the  total  con- 
sumption for  the  year  1870  was  valued  at  $466,186,303, 
of  which  home  manufactures  furnished  $385,034,574; 
and  $81,151,729,  or  17.4  per  cent,  represents  the  foreign 
value  of  imports.  Briefly,  American  manufacturers  sup- 
plied rather  less  than  five-sixths  of  the  textile  goods 
used  in  the  United  States. 

The  conditions  under  which  the  several  textile  indus- 
tries are  established  in  a  country  differ  in  an  interest- 
ing manner.  The  controlling  influences  are  the  supply 
of  the  raw  material  and  the  adaptability  of  the  people 
to  a  manufacturing  life.  Sheep  can  be  raised  in  any 
country  where  warm  clothing  is  needed,  save  in  the 
polar  regions.  The  spinning  wheel  and  the  handloora 
are  among  the  simplest  forms  of  machinery,  on  which 
the  homespun  is  woven.  It  is  therefore  natural  that 
the  woolen  industry  should  spring  up  in  primitive  com- 
munities, and  among  people  who  are  too  poor  to  buy 
the  material  of  their  clothing;  and  as  population  in- 
creases, as  the  comforts  of  life  become  more  available, 
and  as  labor  becomes  specialized  and  diversified,  the 
production  by  machinery  of  woolen  cloth  for  sale  is  one 
of  the  earliest  developments  of  the  manufa<'turing  tend- 
ency. As  might  therefore  l)e  expected,  it  is  found  that 
this  department  of  the  textile  industry  has  a  place  in 
almost  all  countries  in  which  garments  made  of  wool 
fiber  are  needed  as  a  protection  of  the  body  against 
cold.  It  is  an  interesting  corollary  of  tiii>  principle 
that  even  in  this  country  the  manufacture  is  carried  on 
in  almost  every  state  in  the  Union,  from  ^Nliiine  to  Texas, 
from  Florida  to  Washington. 

Cotton  is  a  subtropical  plant.  The  lint  can  be  sepa- 
I'ated  from  the  seed  Viv  hand,  and  it  can  lie  spun  and 
woven  by  processes  as  simple  as  those  which  in  primi- 
tive communities  convert  wool  into  a  clothing  fabric. 
But  the  labor  is  so  great  and  the  efficiency  of  machin- 
eiy  is  so  superior  to  that  of  hand  work  that  even  the 
poorest  communities  can  not  afford  to  prepare  the  raw 
material  and  spin  and  weave  it  in  this  manner.  Hence, 
virtually  the  whole  manufacture  is  abandoned  to  the 
care  of  capital. 

Moreover,  inasmuch  as  the  improvement  of  machin- 
ery has  cheapened  the  processes  to  a  wonderful  degree, 
it  has  become  more  and  more  difficult  for  novices  to 
engage  in  the  business  with  success. ,  The  result  is  that 
the  manufacture  tends  greatly  to  concentrate,  to  expand 


COMBINED  TEXTILP:S. 


in  coniinuiiitics  whore  ulroiuly  ostabli.shed.  and  to  be 
neglected  or  to  languish  in  regions  where  it  is  newly 
introduced,  unless  favored  by  special  advantages.  Such 
advantages  may  be  convenient  access  to  supplies  of  j-aw 
material  or  peculiar  adaptability  of  the  people  to  a  manu- 
facturing life. 

In  recent  years  there  has  been  an  introduction  of  the 
industiy  or  a  considerable  growth  of  it  from  one  of 
these  two  causes,  in  the  East  Indies,  in  China  and  Japan, 
in  Canada,  and  in  Mexico;  in  some  of  these  cases  the 
manufacture  has  been  directl}'  encouraged  by  Gov- 
ernment measures  and  could  hardly  have  been  success- 
ful without  that  aid.  It  is  easy  to  explain  the  very 
interesting  and  altogether  marvelous  expansion  of  the 
industry  in  the  Southern  states  during  the  last  decade — 
the  most  interesting  feature,  in  fact,  concerning  the 
development  of  the  textile  manufacture  during  that 
period — upon  the  principles  here  suggested. 

The  situation  with  respect  to  silk  is  difl'erent  from 
that  of  wool  or  cotton.  Silk  goods  are  a  luxury,  or  at 
least  a  semiluxury.  They  are  not  required  by  persons 
devoid  of  testhctic  taste.  The^'  have  not  the  warmth- 
giving  properties  of  wool.  They  are  in  general  a  poor 
as  well  as  a  costly  substitute  for  most  of  the  purposes 
to  which  cotton  goods  are  put.  Moreover,  silk  culture 
is  a  difficult  and  uncertain  occupation,  requiring  con- 
stant care,  and  often  In'inging  disappointment  and  loss 
even  to  those  who  have  bestowed  the  most  pains  upon 
it.  One  would  accordingly  expect  to  lind  the  produc- 
tion of  silk  flourishing  in  those  countries  only  where 
the  climate  is  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  the  mul- 
beri-y  tree,  and  where  the  art  of  caring  for  the  silkworm 
during  all  the  stages  of  its  life  history  has  been  acquired 
through  niany  generations  of  study  and  experiment. 

It  would  also  be  natural  to  expect  that  the  communities 
within  which  the  raw  material  is  produced  would  engage 
in  its  conversion  into  \'arn  and  cloth,  and  this  is  the 
case.     The  sources  whence  the  nations  called  "civil- 


ized "  first  drew  the  fine  and  costly  fabric  of  silk  were 
India,  China,  and  Japan,  and  those  countries  still  produce 
articles  which  the  Western  world  can  hardly  match.  The 
introduction  of  th(>  silkworm  into  central  and  western 
Europe  led  to  an  iinmen.so  expansion  of  the  manufacture 
in  France,  Austria,  Switzerland,  and  Italy.  The  Eng- 
lish, with  their  capacity  for  manufacturing,  adopted 
the  industry,  relying  upon  imported  raw  silk,  and  it 
flourished  for  many  years,  but  has  been  declining  dur- 
ing the  past  half  century.  The  Germans,  nearly  sur- 
rounded by  countries  which  are  extensively  engaged  in 
silk  culture,  although  themselves  producing  practically 
no  raw  silk,  have  succeeded  much  better,  and  the  his- 
tory' of  the  manufacture  in  the  German  Empire  has 
been  one  of  great  success. 

The  culture  of  the  silkworm  in  the  United  States, 
although  often  urged  upon  the  people  and  many  times 
attempted  in  a  small  way,  has  never  proved  commer- 
cially successful,  and  the  country  does  not  appear  even 
among  the  "scattering"  as  a  producer  of  raw  silk. 
Yet  under  an  encouraging  government  policy  the  manu- 
facture has  been  firml\'  established.  Reasons  corre- 
sponding to  those  which  caused  the  wool  manufacture  to 
spring  up  in  every  part  of  the  country  and  which  con- 
centrated the  cotton  manufacture  where  power  is  cheap, 
where  rates  of  transportation  are  low,  where  labor  is 
abundant,  or  in  the  Immediate  vicinitj'  of  a  supply  of 
raw  cotton,  result  in  a  still  greater  localization  of  the 
silk  industry.  Eleven-twelfths  of  all  the  establishments 
in  the  country  are  in  the  5  adjoining  states  of  Penn- 
.sj'lvania.  New  .Jersey,  New  York,  Connecticut,  and 
Massachusetts,  and  of  the  1,()45,304  throwing  spindles, 
996,118 — more  than  nineteen-twentieths  of  the  whole — 
are  in  the  mills  of  those  states. 

Table  1  shows  the  value  of  the  products  and  the  im- 
ports of  cotton,  wool,  and  silk  manufactures,  and  per- 
centage of  imports  to  the  total  consumption,  1870  and 
1900. 


Table  1.— VALUE  OF  DO:\IESTIC    PRODUCTS,  EXPORTS,  IMPORTS   FOR   CONSUMPTION,  AND   TOTAL   CONSUMPTION 
OF  TEXTILES,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF  IMPORTS  TO  TOTAL  CONSUMPTION:  1870  AND  1900. 


1900 

1870 

Per  cent  of 
imports  to 

Value  of 
domestic 
products. 

Exports.i 

Domestic 
consump- 
tion. 

f™  con'       Total  con- 

Value  of 
domestic 
products. 

Exports.! 

Domestic 
consump- 
tion. 

Imports 
lor  con- 
sumption.! 

Total  con- 
sumption. 

total  con- 
sumption. 

sumption.^ 

sumption. 

1900 

1870 

$743,417,062 

$25,556,057 

8717,891,005 

$82,214,010 

$800,105,015 

$388,957,663 

$3,923,089 

$385,034,574 

881,151.729 

$466,186,303 

10.3 

Cotton  mamifnclures  .. 

Wool  miinnfftciures 

Silk  manuraciiues 

339,200,320 
296, 990, 484 
107,256,258 

24,003,087 

1,300,362 

252,608 

315,197,233 
295.690,122 
107,003,650 

39,789,989 
15, 620, 487 
26, 803, 534 

354,987,222 
311.310,609 
133,807,184 

177,489,739 

199,257,262 

12,210,662 

3,787,282 
124, 1,59 
11,648 

173,  702, 4.57 
199, 133, 103 
12,199,014 

21,899,120 
3,5,032,628 
24,219,981 

195,601,577 
234,165,731 
36,418,995 

11.2 

5.0 

20.0 

11.2 
15.0 
66.5 

'AiinualReports  United  States  Treasury  Department  on  Commerce  and  Navigation  of  the  United  States,  1870  and  1900.    These  are  foreign,  and  not  duty-paid  values. 


The  value  now  reported  for  hosiery  and  knit  goods 
can  not  be  divided  between  cotton  and  wool:  but  if  it 
be  added  to  the  reported  home  production,  the  total 
value  of  the  textiles  consumed  in  the  United  States  in 
1900  is  1895, .587,581,  and  the  percentage  imported  is 
but  9.18.     It  ma}'  also   be   mentioned   that   in   recent 


years  a  great  proportion  of  the  articles  classed  as  cot- 
ton goods  imported  consists  of  laces,  embroideries, 
trimmings,  edgings,  and  other  merchandise  of  which 
these  are  the  types,  which  are  not  strictly  to  be  classi- 
fied with  the  products  of  the  spindle,  the  loom,  and  the 
knittino-  machine. 


MANUFACTURES. 


It  i.s  a  matter  of  extreme  difficulty  to  ascertain  the 
exact  standing  of  the  United  States  as  a  producer  of 
textiles.  The  stati.stics  are  collected  in  no  other  coun- 
try with  the  care  and  thoroughness  which  characterize 
an  American  census.  The  figures  presented  by  statis- 
ticians of  recognized  repute  are  necessarily  estimates  to 
a  large  extent;  and  the  yeai"s  for  which  the  estimates 
are  made  do  not  coincide  with  the  census  years  of  this 
country,  unless  by  accident.  Nevertheless,  the  situa- 
tion ma}'  be  set  forth  in  broad  terms  with  much  confi- 
dence, inasmuch  as  there  are  some  facts  having  an 
oflScial  character  which  furnish  trustworthy  indications. 

Taking  first  the  cotton  manufacture,  there  is  the 
assi.stance  of  Government  and  commercial  stati-stics 
showing  the  amount  of  cotton  produced,  imported,  ex- 
ported, and  consequentlj'  the  amount  retained  for  con- 
sumption in  each  country.  There  is  also  the  help 
afforded  by  close  annual  estimates  by  most  experienced 
observers  of  the  number  of  spindles  in  operation  in 
every  country  of  the  world  in  which  cotton  is  manu- 
factured on  a  large  scale.  The  following  table,  com- 
piled from  statistics  gathered  by  Thomas  EUi.son,  of 
Liverpool,  the  highest  authority  in  the  world  on  the 
subject  of  cotton,  shows  the  consumption  of  cotton  in 
Great  Britain,  on  the  continent  of  Europe,  and  in  the 
United  States,  at  various  periods,  namelj",  the  average 
annual  consumption  in  the  five  years  ending  with  the 
American  census  years  from  1830  to  1S80.  followed  by 
the  annual  consumption  in  each  of  the  j'ears  1890  and 
1900.  The  amounts  are  expressed  in  thousands  of  bales 
of  a  uniform  weight  of  400  pounds. 

CONSUMPTION    OF    COTTON    AT    DECENNIAL    PERIODS, 
1830-1900. 


WORLD'S  CONSUMPTION  OF  COTTON,  1900. 
[New  York  Commercial  Chronicle.] 


Great 

Britain, 

number  of 

thousand 

bales. 

Continent 

Europe, 

number  of 

thousand 

bales. 

United 

States, 

number  of 

thousand 

bales. 

Average  for  5  years  ending— 

711 
1,166 
1,4,58 
2,265 
2,639 
2,924 
4,140 
4,079 

411 
629 
776 
1,490 
1,842 
2,45.5 
4, 277 
5,720 

130 
255 
553 

1840  .  . 

1850 

1860 

1870 

875 

1880 

Year  1890 

12,983 
4,699 

Year  1900 

'  Census  figures,  reduced  to  bales  of  400  pounds.  Cotton  used  in  wool  manu- 
factures included. 

One  might  hastily  infer  that  the  United  States  was, 
in  the  year  1900,  the  leading  country  of  the  world 
in  the  manufacture  of  cotton.  The  same  inference 
might  be  drawn  from  the  statistics  collected  by  the 
New  York  Chronicle,  which,  in  its  Cotton  Crop  Sup- 
plement for  1900,'  gives  the  weekly  consumption  for 
the  preceding  years  as  shown  in  the  following  table, 
in  bales  of  500  pounds  each.  The  annual  consumption 
(52  weeks)  of  bales  of  corresponding  weight,  and  the 
number  reduced  to  bales  of  400  pounds,  are  added 
for  purposes  of  comparison  with  the  preceding  table. 

'Septembers,  1900. 


• 

Weekly, 

number  of 

500-pound 

bales. 

ANNUAL. 

Number  of 

500-pound 

bales. 

Equivalent 

400pound 

bales. 

262,295 

13,639,340 

17,049,175 

(ireat  Britain 

'64,115 
88,000 
74, 148 
21,638 
12,000 
2,141 
353 

3,333,980 

.     4,  .576, 000 

3,865,696 

1,119,976 

624,000 

111,332 

18,356 

4.167,475 

5.  720, 000 

United  States                  

4  819  620 

1,399,970 
780  000 

Canada 

139, 165 

22,945 

'  The  amount  reported  in  ISOO.  prior  to  the  receipt  of  Mr.  Ellison's  report,  was 
67,654  bales  weekly.  In  the  Cotton  Crop  Supplement,  September  7,  1901,  the 
amount  was  changed  to  64,115  bales  weekly. 

Although  the  amount  consumed  by  the  countries  of 
the  European  continent  exceeded  that  consumed  in  the 
United  States,  the  consumption  in  this  country  greatly 
exceeded  that  of  any  one  of  those  countries:  France, 
Germany,  Austria,  or  Russia. 

It  is,  however,  universally  known  that  Great  Britain 
is  far  in  the  lead  in  the  cotton  manufacture.  The  fact 
is  brought  out  in  the  special  report  on  the  cotton  indus- 
try, that  an  immense  proportion  of  the  spinning  in  the 
United  States  is  coarse  or  medium  jams,  whereas  the 
average  .spinning  on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic  is 
much  finer.  A  better  test  of  the  comparative  standing 
is  afforded  by  the  number  of  spindles.  The  following 
table,  like  that  showing  the  consumption  of  cotton, 
is  made  up  from  the  figures  compiled  by  Mr.  Ellison, 
and  are  partly  official  and  partly  estimated: 

COTTON    SPINDLES    IN    THE    WORLD    AT    VARIOUS 
PERIODS,  IN  THOUSANDS. 


1900 

1897 

1887 

1877 

1861 

Great  Britain 

Continentof  Europe 

United  States 

India            

46.000 

33,000 

19,008 

4,400 

1,500 

600 

640 

460 

44,900 

30, 3,50 

16,800 

4,000 

970 

440 

560 

450 

43,000 

23,  7.50 

13,. 500 

2,400 

39,  .500 

19.600 

10,000 

1.2?0 

30,300 

10,000 

5,000 

338 

Japan 

China 

\ 

Mexico 

A  more  detailed  statement  of  the  spindles  in  the 
countries  of  the  world  in  1900  has  been  prepared  for 
this  report  by  the  editor  of  the  New  York  Commercial 
and  Financial  Chronicle.  It  is  presented,  together  with 
another  statement  made  by  Mr.  Hachiro  H.  Fukuhara, 
a  Japanese,  who  has  been  investigating  the  cotton  man- 
ufacture in  Europe  and  America  with  a  view  to  pro- 
moting the  industry  in  his  own  country.  The  general 
correspondence  of  the  two  statements,  compiled  inde- 
pendently, is  a  strong  point  in  favor  of  the  accuracy  of 
both.  They  show  that  this  country  stands  next  after 
Great  Britain  in  the  number  of  spindles,  and  that  it 
operates  more  than  twice  as  miiny  spindles  as  Geniuuiy, 
which  has  the  third  rank. 


COMBINED  TEXTILES. 


NUMBER  OF  SPINDLES  IN  THE  COUNTRIES  OF  THE 
WORLD,  AS  ASCERTAINED  AT  NEAREST  AVAILABLE 
DATE  TO  1900. 


Total . 


United  Kingdom 

United  Stales 

Germany 

Russia 

Fiance 

India 

Austria  and  Hungary  . 

Spain 

Switzerland 

Italy 

Japan  

Poland 

Belgium 

China 

Canada 

Mexico 

Sweden 

Holland 

Portugal 

Norway 

Greece 

Roumania 

Smyrna 


New  York 

Mr.  Fuliu- 

Chronicle. 

hara. 

number. 

number. 

103,383,386 

103,050,677 

45,400,000 

45,400,000 

18,590,515 

18,100,000 

'7,155,600 

7,884,000 

5  6,090,889 

6,000,000 

55,039,000 

5,300,000 

4,94.5,783 

5, 002, 473 

13,140,171 

3.140,000 

'2,614,600 

2,615,000 

'1,709,400 

1,972,000 

12,092,730 

1,886,000 

1,220,975 

1,250,000 

'850, 000 

965,000 

1880,800 

900,000 

600,000 

560, 048 

640, 000 

500,000 

2  491,443 

448, 156 

2  360,000 

360, 000 

1269,680 

350,000 

3160,000 

230, 000 

< 112, 000 

118,000 

•970,000 

70,000 

MO,  000 
10,000 

11898.  21899  3  1894  < 1896.  '1897.  6 1895. 

The  materials  for  estimating  tiie  relative  standing  of 
different  countries  in  the  wool  industry  are  less  abundant 
and  less  trustworthy  than  those  available  for  the  cotton 
manufacture.  There  are  no  accurate  returns,  even  of 
the  consumption  of  wool,  except  in  Great  Britain  and 
the  United  States;  there  is  no  common  standard  of 
machinery;  and  no  return  of  the  number  of  hands 
employed.  The  most  recent  figures,  and  they  are 
merely  careful  and  probably  nearly  correct  estimates, 
are  for  the  year  1894.  They  are  compiled'  from  the 
trade  circular  of  Helmuth  Schwartze  &Co.,  of  London, 
who  are  recognized  authority  upon  the  production  and 
consumption  of  wool  throughout  the  world. 
•  The  estimate  is  that  in  the  year  1S9-1:  the  home  pro- 
duction and  the  net  importation  of  the  United  Kingdom 
made  available  for  the  consumption  of  that  country 
aggregated  507,000,000  pounds  of  wool;  for  the  Conti- 
nent of  Europe,  1,247,000,000  pounds;  for  North 
America,  458,000,000  pounds.  The  estimate  of  the 
same  authority'  for  the  year  1900  gave  the  United  King- 
dom for  home  consumption  502,000,000  pounds.  It  is, 
perhaps,  not  far  from  the  truth  to  assume  that  the  con- 
sumption of  five-sixths,  possibly  more,  of  the  wool 
manufactured  on  the  Continent  of  Europe  of  which 
commerce  takes  account  is  divided  nearl}^  equally  among 
France,  Germanj',  and  Austria-Hungary.  For  this 
inference,  reliance  has  to  be  placed  upon  statistics  which 
are  none  too  recent.  Assuming,  in  order  to  make  an 
estimate,  that  the  consumption  in  1892  was  the  .same  as 
in  1894,  and  that  the  home  production  of  each  countrj" 
was  the  same  in  1892  as  in  1900,  the  result,  stated  in 
pounds  of  wool  consumed,  is  as  follows: 


COUNTEIES. 

Total,  pounds. 

Production, 
pounds. 

Net  import, 
pounds. 

Total                                       

1,227,500,000 

217,500,000 

1,010,000,000 

France                                 

457,610,000 
383, 090, 000 
386,800,000 

103,610,000 
49,690,000 
64,300,000 

354  000  000 

333,500,000 
322, 500, 000 

The  use  of  wool  in  the  manufactures  of  the  United 
States,  according  to  the  present  census,  amounted  to 
394,369,523  pounds  in  the  year  1900;  .somewhat  less,  it 
will  be  observed,  than  the  amount  above  allowed  for 
North  Amei'ica  in  the  Helniuth-Schwartze  estimate  for 
the  year  1894.  Although  the  inference  can  not  be  put 
foi-th  with  much  confidence,  all  the  available  facts  seem 
to  suggest  that,  judged  by  the  standard  of  wool  con- 
sumed— bj'  no  means  a  perfect  test — the  United  States 
stands  after  Great  Britain,  the  leading  country,  and 
France  the  second,  and  on  a  fairly  even  footing  with 
Germany  and  Austria. 

The  report  upon  the  silk  manufacture  gives  a  trust- 
worthy exhibit  of  the  position  of  the  United  States  in 
that  branch  of  the  textile  industry,  in  the  following 
table: 

VALUE   OF   SILK   PRODUCTS  OF  EUROPE  AND   THE 
UNITED  STATES:  1900.' 


COUNTRIES. 

Value 
of  products. 

Percent 

of 
products. 

Total                           

$396,000,000 

100.0 

122,000,000 
92,000,000 
73,000,000 
38,  two,  000 
21,000,000 
17,000,000 
15,000,000 
13,000,000 
4,000,000 

30.9 

Ilnitpd  States                        

23.3 

18.5 

9.6 

B.3 

4.3 

3.8 

3.3 

I.O 

Note. — The  materials  from  which  the  foregoing  statement  is  composed  are 
to  he  found  in  the  Wool  Book.  1895,  pages  79.  81,  82,  and  85,  and  the  Bulletin  of 
the  National  Association  of  Wool  Manufacturers  for  November,  1900,  page  14. 

'The  Wool  Book,  Boston:  1895,  page  64. 


1  International  Universal  Exposition  at  Paris:  Report  of  United  States  Com- 
missioner Peck;  Report  on  silk  fabrics,  contributed  by  Franklin  .\Ilen,  jr.,  of 
the  United  States,  in  the  silk  section  (Class  83).  Government  Printing  Office, 
Washington,  D.  C,  1901,  page  565. 

It  appears  that  in  value  of  production  the  United 
States  is  surpassed  by  France  alone,  and  reasons  are 
given  in  the  report  for  an  opinion  that  the  excess  is 
swelled  by  some  items  that  .should  not  be  reckoned  to 
the  credit  of  France.  At  the  rate  of  progress  made  by 
the  United  States  it  seems  probable  that  at  the  next 
enumeration  it  will  take  the  first  position  among  silk 
manufacturing  nations,  if  it  has  not  already  (1902)  done 
so.  It  may  be  remarked  that  value  of  production  is  a 
better  test  of  the  relative  standing  of  nations  in  the  case 
of  silk  than  it  is  in  the  case  of  cotton,  where  so  much 
depends  upon  the  fineness  of  spinning,  or  than  in  the 
case  of  wool,  where  the  difference  is  so  wide  in  the  vaUie 
per  pound  of  material  used  in  the  manufacture  of  car- 
pets and  of  fine  worsted  cloth. 

A  general  summary  shows  that  the  United  States  is 
second  in  the  cotton  industry,  nearly  tied  for  the  third 
place  in  woolens,  and  second  in  silk.  But  the  country 
.so  far  exceeds  any  of  its  rivals,  except  Great  Britain, 
in  cotton,  that  the  position  as  the  second  manufacturing 
nation  in  the  world  in  textiles  will  be  conceded  to  be 
beyond  dispute.  It  is  interesting,  therefore,  to  inquire 
how  the  United  Stat.es  stands  in  comparison  with  the 
United  Kingdom,  which  alone  surpa.sses  it  in  this  re- 
spect. The  only  available  test  is  the  number  of  hands 
employed.  The  Annual  Report  for  1900  of  the  Chief 
Inspector  of  Factories  and  Workshops,  published  as  a 


MANUFACTURES. 


"blue  hook," gives  the  number  of  employees  in  all  the 
textile  factories  in  the  United  Kingdom  in  1S99.  The 
number.s  are  given  herewith,  and  the  corro'-ponding 
numbers  of  emjjloj'ees  in  American  textile  factories  in 
1900  are  given  for  purposes  of  comparison: 


United  King- 
dom, 1899. 
wage-earners, 
number. 

United  States, 

1900.  wage- 
earners,  aver- 
age number. 

Total                                                    

1,010,162 

631, 675 

526,107 

256, 425 

35,461 

35,464 

156,  705 

302, 861 

Wool  worsted  and  shoddy       

159, 108 

Silk      

6.1, 410 

83,387 

20, 903 

Only  wage-earners  are  reported  in  the  figures  for  the 
United  States,  and  apparently  none  others  are  included 
in  the  British  returns.  So  far  as  these  facts  are  a  safe 
basis  for  a  conchision,  the  importance  of  the  textile  in- 
dustry as  a  whole  in  the  United  States  is  about  three- 
lifths  as  great  as  the  .same  industry  in  Great  Britain. 
Were  the  flax,  hemp,  and  jute  manufactures,  in  which 
this  country  is  greatly  inferior,  to  be  eliminated,  the 
proportion  would  be  nearh'  three-fourths. 

A    GENERAL    SURVEY    OF   THE   TEXTILE    INDUSTRY. 

Table  2,  in  contiiuiation  of  that  which  was  first  pre- 
sented at  the  Eleventh  Census,  exhibits  the  general 
condition  of  each  branch  of  the  textile  manufacture, 
and  of  the  industry  as  an  entity,  at  decennial  periods 
for  the  last  half  centurv- 


Table  2.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  BY  INDUSTRIES:  1850  TO  1900. 


INDUSTRIES. 


Combined  textiles 

Cotton  manufacture: 

Cottrm  goods 

Cotton  small  wares 

Wool  manufacture 

Silk  manufacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Flax,  hemp,  and  jute 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles 

Combined  textiles 

Cotton  manufacture 

Wool  manufacture 

Silk  manufacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Flax,  hemp, and  jute 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles 

f:ombined  textiles 

Cotton  manufacture-* 

Wool  manufacture 

Silk  manufacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles 

Combined  textiles 

Cotton  manufacture 

Wool  manufacture 

Silk  manufacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles 

Combined  textiles 

Cotton  manufacture 

Wool  manufacture 

Silk  manufacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles 

Combined  textiles 

Cotton  manufacture 

W'ool  mainifacture 

Silk  manufacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles 


Year. 


1900 


1900 
1900 
1900 
1900 
1900 
1900 
1900 

1890 


1890 
1890 
1890 
1890 
1890 
1890 

1880 


1880 
1880 
1880 
1880 
1880 

1870 


1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 
1870 

1860 


1860 
1860 
1860 
1860 
1860 

1850 

1850 
1850 
1850 
1850 
1850 


Num-  I 
berof  j 
estab-  I 
lish-  I 
ments. , 


Capital. 


4,312     $1,042,997,577 


973 
82 
1,414 
483 
921 
141 
298 

4,276 


905 
1,693 
472 
796 
162 
248 

4,018 


756 
2,330 
382 
359 
191 

4,790 


956 

3,208 

86 

248 

292 

3,027 


1,091 

1,476 

139 

197 

124 

3, 025 


1,094 

1,675 

67 

So 

104 


460, 842,  772 
6, 397,  385 

310, 179,  749 
81, 082,  201 
81, 860, 604 
41,991,762 
60, 643, 104 

767, 705,  310 


354,020.843 
245, 886, 743 
51,007,537 
50  007, 738 
27,731,649 
38, 450, 800 

412,721.496 


208, 280, 346 

143,512,278 

19,125,300 

15,579,591 

26,223,981 

297,694,243 


140,706,291 

121,451,059 

6,231.130 

10,931.260 

18,374,503 

150,080,852 


98,585,269 

38, 814, 422 

2,926,980 

4, 035. 510 

6, 718, 671 

112,513,947 


74,500,931 

31,971,631 

678, 30O 

544,  735 

4, 818, 350 


SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 


Number. 


16, 822 


$23, 289, 162 


4,713 
189 
4.495 
2, 657 
2,809 
641 
1,318 

J 10, 637 


7. 123,  574 
226, 625 

6. 455. 495 
3.134,352 

3. 124.  798 
957, 190 

2,267.128 

'12,539,920 


2,709 
3,652 
1.531 
1,621 
458 
666 

(°) 


r-) 


(=) 


(=) 


Salaries. 


3, 464, 734 
4,057,695 
1.917.877 
1,6«),1.53 
609, 170 
805, 291 


C=) 


(=) 


(=) 


WAGE-EARNERS. 


Average 
number. 


6  384,251 


6174,659 

132,  672 

31,337 

28,885 

16, 698 

274, 943 


135,369 

105, 071 

6,649 

14,788 

13,066 

194,082 


122,028 

50,419 

5,435 

9,103 

7,097 

146, 877 


92,286 

45, 438 

1,743 

2, 325 

5,105 


Total  wages. 


8209,022,447 


85, 126, 310 
1,563,442 
57, 933, 817 
20, 982, 194 
24, 3.58. 627 
6,331,741 
12.726.316 

168,488,982 


105, 050, 666 


42,040,510 

40,687,612 

9, 146,  705 

6,701,475 

6, 474, 364 

86, 565, 191 


39, 044, 132 

35, 928, 1.50 

1,942,286 

4. 429, 085 

5,221,538 

40, 353, 462 


23,  940, 108 

11,699.630 

1, 050, 224 

1,661,972 

2,001,528 

(=) 


1^1 
(■) 
(') 


lliscella- 
neous  ex- 
penses. 


$63,122,916 


Cost  of 

materials 

used. 


$521,345,^00 


Value  of 
products. 


5931,494,566 


21,6.50,144 
462,  .534 
17, 329, 932 
10.  264, 208 
6,  .599. 865 
2, 678, 286 
4, 137, 947 

44, 7S8, 668 


16,716,524 
15,622,263 
4. 259,  623 
3.627,245 
1,431,932 
3,131,081 


e) 


(^) 


(^) 


173,441,390 
3.110,137 

181  1.59,127 
62, 406, 665 
51,071,859 
32, 197, 885 
17,958,137 

447,546,540 


332, 806, 1.56 

6.394.164 

296. 990, 484 

107. 256,  258 

95. 482, 566 

47.601,607 

44,963,331 

759,262,283 


154,912,979 
167,233,987 
51,004,425 
35,861,585 
26, 148, 344 
12, 385, 220 

302, 709, 894 


102, 206, 347 
149, 160, 600 
22, 467, 701 
15,210,951 
13,664,295 

353,249,102 


111,736,936 

124, 318, 792 

7, 817,  559 

9, 835, 823 

99, 539, 992 

112,842,111 


57, 286, 534 
43,447,048 
3,901,777 
3,202,317 
6,005,435 

76,715,969 


34,835,056 

28, 831, 583 

1,093,860 

415,113 

11,540,347 


267,981.724 
270,527.511 
87, 298. 454 
67.241,013 
37,313,021 
28,900,560 

532,673,488 


192,090.110 
238,085,686 
41,033.045 
29.167.227 
32, 297, 420 

520, 386, 764 


177, 489, 739 

199,257,262 

12,210,662 

18,411.564 

« 113, 017.  .537 

214,740,614 


115,681,774 

73, 454, 000 

6,607,771 

7, 280,  606 

11,716,463 

128, 769, 971 


61,869,184 
48,608,779 
1,809,476 
l,02.s,102 
15,4.54,430 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.  (See  detailed  summary  for  each 
industry.) 

'-  Not  reported  separately. 

^  Not  reijorted. 

*  In  addition  to  these  data  there  were  received  at  the  census  of  1880  returns  for  249  mills,  classed  as  "special  mills,"  engaged  in  working  raw  cotton,  waste, 
or  cotton  yarn  into  hosiery,  webbing,  tapes,  and  fancy  fabrics,  and  mixed  goods  or  other  fabrics,  which  are  not  sold  as  specific  mauufaeturesof  wool  or  cotton. 
These  249  establishments  reported  811,224,448  capital,  12',928  employees,  S3,.573.y09  wages.  S2,3:!S,385  cost  of  cotton  consumed.  $18,860,273  value  of  products,  and  should 
be  considered  in  making  comparisons.  In  1,S90  this  class  of  mills  is  reported  under  a  number  of  different  heads,  although  some  of  them  may  be  include.-;  in  the 
totals  for  the  textile  industries  presented  in  the  figures  for  1890. 

'Includes  2.115  otHcers  and  clerks,  whose  salaries  were  not  reported. 

s  At  the  census  of  1870  the  value  of  the  fabric  Itself  was  reported,  whereas  in  all  subsequent  censuses  merely  the  value  added  to  such  fabric  by  the  process  of 
dyeing  and  finishing  is  given. 

'  This  item  was  not  fully  reported  at  the  census  of  1.S50. 


COMBINED  TEXTILES. 


Great  reliance  can  not  be  placed  upon  any  manufac- 
turing census  of  the  United  State.s  prior  to  that  of  1S7<), 
at  which  time  a  scientific  method  was  emploj'ed  for  the 
first  time,  and  since  which  the  returns  have  been  more 
thorough,  more  carefully  scanned,  and  more  accurate. 
But  inasmuch  as  the  rule  adopted  for  ascertaining  the 
capital  employed  has  been  changed  at  each  census, 
except  for  1890  and  1900,  the  indication  of  increase  can 
be  taken  as  only  approximately  true.  With  this  cau- 
tion it  appears  that  the  capital  invested  in  textile  man- 
ufactures, omitting  tlax,  hemp,  and  jute,  has  multiplied 
more  than  eight  times  in  fifty  years,  and  that  the  value 
of  products  is  almost  sevenfold  that  reported  in  1850. 
Neither  capital  nor  value  of  products  is  a  fair  test  of 
the  increase  of  tiie  industry,  the  first  item  for  the 
reason  just  given,  and  the  value  of  products  because 
there  has  been  a  progressive  decrease  in  the  cost  of  the 
fibers  which  constitute  the  raw  material,  and  hence  in 
the  value  of  the  pound  of  yarn  or  the  3'ard  of  cloth. 
Another  standard  of  comparison  is  afforded  by  the 
number  of  employees.  Table  3  shows  the  percentage 
of  increase  in  the  average  number  of  wage-earners  and 
in  the  value  of  products. 

Table  3.— PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE  IN  AVERAGE  NU.M- 
BER  OF  WAGE-EARNERS  AND  IN  VALUE  OF  PROD- 
UCTS: 1850  to  1900.' 


PERIODe. 

Per  cent  of  increase  in- 

Average 
number  of 
wage- 
earners. 

Value  of 
products. 

1850  to  1900  . 

336.1 

586  4 

1890  to  1900 

27.7 
30.6 
39.8 
41.7 
32.1 

1880  to  1890 

35  5 

1870tiilS80 

18i;0  to  1870 

142.3 
66  8 

1850  to  1860 

iNot  including  flax, hemp, and  jute. 

It  appears  that  the  total  increase  in  the  number  of 
wage-earners  in  the  textile  manufactures,  excluding 
flax,  hemp,  and  jute,  for  which  comparative  figures  are 
notavailable,  during  the  half  century  has  been  336.1  per 
cent.  The  rate  of  increase  has  averaged  S-iA  during 
each  decennial  period.  The  rate  during  the  last  decade 
was  the  smallest  of  those  reported,  but  it  was  based 
upon  a  much  larger  aggregate,  so  that  numerically  the 
increase  was  greater  than  in  the  period  1880-1890.  It 
is  an  interesting  fact  that  the  increase  has  in  each 
decade,  except  that  of  1850-1860,  exceeded  the  general 
growth  of  population  in  spite  of  the  enormous  increase 
in  the  efficiency  of  machinery,  which  makes  the  pro- 
ductive power  of  one  man's  labor  many  times  as  great 
as  it  was  at  the  beginning  of  the  half  centurv.     In  con- 


sidering the  statement  of  the  percentage  of  increase  in 
the  value  of  products,  full  account  should  be  taken  of 
the  disturbance  of  all  estvmates  of  this  sort  which  in- 
clude the  period  from  1860  to  1880.  Prices  were  greatly 
inflated  during  the  first  half  of  the  twenty -year  period 
by  the  depreciation  of  the  monetary  standard,  and  also 
by  the  scarcity  of  cotton,  which  made  the  price  exceed- 
ingly high.  During  the  last  half  of  the  period  prices 
gradually  declined,  owing  to  the  restoration  of  normal 
conditions  in  the  cotton  market  and  the  return  to  a  gold 
basis. 

NUMBER   OF    ESTABLISHMENTS. 

The  number  of  e.stablishments  engaged  in  all  the  tex- 
tile industries,  except  flax,  hemp,  and  jute,  has  increased 
since  1850  from  3,025  to  -1,171,  or  37.9  per  cent.  The 
number  has  shown  a  positive  decrease  since  1870.  The 
gross  number  at  the  last  4  censuses  has  been  4,790, 4,018, 
4,114,  and  4,171,  respectively.  Yet  the  number  of  silk 
factories  has  increased  largely,  and  there  has  been  a 
great  development  of  the  cotton  industry  in  the  South, 
involving  the  installation  of  hundreds  of  new  establish- 
ments. The  decrease  has  mostly  occurred  in  the  num- 
ber of  establishments  manufacturing  wool.  Neverthe- 
less, a  somewhat  similar  process  is  going  on  in  all 
branches  of  the  indastry,  an  abandonment  and  final 
closing  of  small  establishments  and  a  consolidation  akin 
to  that  which  is  taking  place  in  all  other  industries. 

This  tendency  is  marked,  to  a  certain  extent,  in  the 
case  of  cotton  by  the  very  extensive  building  of  new 
mills  in  the  Southern  states.  It  is  fully  apparent  in 
the  case  of  wool  for  a  rea.son  which  will  be  apparent 
to  all  persons  who  are  aware  of  the  difference  in  the 
conditions  under  which  the  two  industries  are  conducted. 
It  will  be  seen  that  the  average  capital  reported  by 
the  973  cotton  manufacturing  establishments  is  more 
than  $473,000;  the  average  of  those  engaged  in  the 
manufacture  of  wool  is  less  than  $220,000.  Ten  vears 
ago  the  average  capital  in  the  latter  industry  was 
less  than  $150,000.  Most  cotton  factories  are  owned 
and  operated  by  corporations:  a  large  number  of 
woolen  factories  are  owned  by  individuals  or  firms, 
some  of  which  are  small  producers,  chiefly  for  local 
consumption.  The  tendency  of  textile  manufactures 
both  to  concentrate  and  to  group  themselves  in  favor- 
able regions  is  most  marked,  and  is  likelj'  to  be  more 
apparent  as  time  passes. 

THE    GENERAL    GROWTH    IN    TWENTY   YEARS. 

r 

Table  4  presents  a  comparative  summar}'  of  the  lead- 
ing facts  relating  to  the  industry  as  a  whole,  not  includ- 
ing flax,  hemp,  and  jute,  in  18S0,  1890,  and  1900,  with 
the  per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade. 


10 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  4.-C0MPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  NOT  INCLUDING  FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE,  1880  TO  1900,   WITH  PER  CENT  OF 

INCREASE  FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials, clerks, etc., number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  waees 

Men.  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  15  years  and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


DATE  or  CENSDS. 


$1,001, 

«22, 
8202, 
8114, 

878, 

$9, 
$60, 
$489, 


4,171 

005, 815 

16, 181 

331,972 

640,548 
690,706 
288,871 
9.59, 158 
283.638 
084,!i64 
68, 039 
646. 9S4 
444.630 
147.316 
892, 959 


1890 


4,114 

$739,973,661 

I  10,179 

I  $11, 930, 750 

501,718 

$163, 616, 593 

216,345 

$91,038,323 

243.589 

$66,644,785 

41,784 

$5, 933, 485 

$43. 366. 736 

$421,398,196 

$721,949,262 


1S80 


4,018 
8412,721,496 

C) 

(=) 

3  384,251 

$105,050,666 

159, 382 

m 

169, 806 
55,063 

h 

$302,709,894 
$532, 673, 488 


PER  CENT  OF 
INCREASE. 


1890 

to 
1900 


1.4 
36.3 
59.0 
87.2 
27,7 
23.9 
33.5 
26.3 
16.4 
17.2 
62.8 
62.6 
39.4 
16.1 
22.4 


1880 

to 
1890 


2.4 
79.3 


30.6 
66.8 
35.7 


43.5 
"*'24.'i 


39.2 
36.5 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table. 
Industry. ) 

2  Not  reported  separately. 

3  Includes  2.115  officers  and  clerks  whose  salaries  are  not  reported. 
*  Decrease. 

6  Not  reported. 


(See  detailed  summary  for  each 


The  compari.son  of  all  the  item.s  in  combination  give.s 
a  better  measure  of  growth  than  can  be  found  in  any 
single  item  of  the  statement.  It  will  be  seen  that  as  to 
all  the  items  which  were  reported  in  the  enumeration 
of  1880  there  was  an  increase  in  the  ensuing  decade, 
with  the  single  exception  of  children  employed.  The 
decrease  in  this  item  was  due  to  a  combined  legislative 
and  social  movement  in  the  Northern  states  to  eliminate 
child  labor  as  far  as  practicable.  For  the  decade  from 
1890  to  1900  there  was  an  increase  in  every  item,  rang- 
ing in  amounts  from  1.4  per  cent  in  the  number  of 
establishments  to  87.2  per  cent  in  the  .salaries  of  office 
clerks,  etc.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  the 
increase  in  salaried  employees  is  rather  apparent  than 
real,  and  is  due  to  the  transfer  to  this  item  of  superin- 
tendents, overseers,  etc.,  who  were  reported  in  1890 
with  wage-earners.  The  next  largest  increase  is  that  in 
the  number  of  children  employed,  62.8  per  cent,  and 
of  their  wages,  62.6  per  cent.  This  reversal  of  the 
movement  previously  noted  was  a  consequence  of  the 


immense  increase  of  cotton  manufacturing  in  the  South, 
where  it  was  neces.sarv  to  enlist  all  the  labor  procurable. 
Neither  of  the  items  showing  a  minimum  or  a  maxi- 
mum of  increase  is  of  much  weight  in  estimating  the 
growth  of  the  industry,  but  it  will  be  seen  that  the  re- 
ported increa.se  of  capital,  35. 3  percent ;  of  wage-earners, 
27.7  per  cent;  of  wages,  23.9  per  cent;  and  of  miscella- 
neous expenses,  39.4  per  cent,  are  sufficiently  uniform 
to  give  a  fair  indication  of  the  progress  that  has  been 
made.  The  fact  that  the  cost  of  materials  has  increased 
only  16.1  per  cent,  and  the  value  of  products  only  22.4 
per  cent,  is  explainable  by  the  large  decrease  in  the 
average  price  of  the  raw  materials  used,  which  is  re- 
flected in  the  value  of  products.  The  quantity  of  prod- 
uct shows  an  increase  corresponding  to  that  of  the  other 
items  mentioned. 

CAPITAL   INVESTED. 

Table  5  presents  a  summary  of  the  capital  invested  in 
the  several  branches  of  the  textile  industry,  1840  to 
1900,  inclusive. 


Table  5.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY  OF  CAPITAL;  1840  TO  1900. 


DATE  OF  CENSl'S. 


Total. 


1900 '      $1,042,997,577 

1S90 767, 70.5, 310 

1880 412,721,4% 

1870 297.6114,243 

1860 '  150.  UNO,  .8.52 

1850  112,513,947 

1840  66,867,483 


Cotton  manu- 
facture.' 


$467, 240. 1.57 
354,020,843 
208,280,346 
140,706,291 
98,585,269 
74,500,931 
51,102,359 


Wool  manu- 
facture.'- 


$310,179,749 
245,886,743 
143,512,278 
121,4,51,059 
38, 814, 422 
31,971,631 
15, 765, 124 


Silk  manufac- 
ture. 


Soaiefif  and 
knt(  goods 


-L- 


881,082,201 

51, 007,  .537 

19,125,300 

6,231,130 

2, 926, 980 

678, 300 


$81,860,604 
50,607,738 
15,579,591 
10,931,260 
4, 035, 510 
544,735 


Flax,  hemp, 
and  jute  ^ 


$41,991,762 
27.731.649 


Dyeing  and 
finishing 
textiles 


860.643.104 

38. 450, 800 

26,223,981 

18,374,603 

5,718,671 

4,818,350 


1  Includes  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares. 

2  Includes  worsted  goods;  woolen  goods:  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag;  felt  goods,  and  wool  hats. 
'Includes  cordage  and  twine;  jute  and  jute  goods,  and  linen  goods;  also  two  establishments  classified  in  1890  as  ' 
*Not  reported  separately. 


linen  thread." 


COMBINED  TEXTILES. 


11 


While  the  method  of  ascertainino;'  the  capital  has  been 
chatifyed  at  nearly  every  census  the  statement  is  never- 
theless interesting.  The  successive  changes  have  in 
general  had  the  result  of  including  more  and  more  of 
theactual  capital  employed;  that  is  to  say,  at  the  earlier 
censuses  the  capital  stated  was  merely  the  nominal  cap- 
ital of  corporations  or  the  estimated  capital  of  individ- 
uals and  tirms.  The  method  pursued  at  the  censuses  of 
1890  and  1900  has  been  to  sum  the  value  of  plant  and 
to  include  also  such  items  as  stock  in  process,  bills  re- 
ceivable, etc.,  thus  including  in  the  capital  the  accumu- 
lation which  has  been  invested  in  the  business  and  the 
capital  of  others  than  the  owners  which  has  been  bor- 
rowed and  practically  invested  in  the  manufacture.  In 
this  way  the  reported  capital  shows  a  much  larger  in- 
crease than  would  have  been  exhibited  if  the  original 
method  had  been  followed. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  largest  amount  of  capital  was, 
at  every  census,  that  invested  in  cotton  manufacture. 
At  the  beginning  of  the  period,  IS-tO,  it  was  more  than 
three  times  that  invested  in  the  wool  manufacture,  and 
at  the  census  of  1900  it  was  still  more  than  50  per  cent 
greater  than  that  of  the  wool  manufacture.  The  actual 
increase,  however,  has  been  more  than  $400,000,000, 
against  a  little  less  than  $300,000,000  in  wool.  The 
capital  invested  in  wool  in  1900  was  almost  twenty  times 
that  reported  in  1840.  The  growth  of  the  silk  manu- 
facture and  that  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  estimated 
by  their  capital,  were  almost  the  same  from  1850  to 
1900,  and  the  rate  of  growth  of  each  from  decade  to 
decade  has  been  also  quite  uniform.  Flax,  hemp,  and 
jute   manufactures  were   first   reported   separately  in 


1890,  and  during  the  last  decade  increased  about  50  per 
cent.  The  dyeing  and  finishing  industry  also  shows  a 
large  growth  during  each  ten-year  period. 

COST   OF    MATERIALS    AND    VALUE    OF    PRODUCTS. 

Tables  6  and  7  should  be  considered  together.  Table 
6  shows  the  co.st  of  materials  and  value  of  products  for 
each  branch  of  the  industry  in  1890  and  1900,  and  also, 
for  each  census,  the  cost  of  materials  per  $100  of  prod- 
ucts. Table  7  shows  the  value  of  products  for  each 
branch  of  the  industry  from  the  earliest  period  for 
which  the  foundation  for  a  reasonable  estimate  exists. 

Table  6.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  COST  OF  MATERI- 
ALS, VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS,  AND  COST  OF  MATERIALS 
PER  $100  OF  PRODUCTS:   1890  AND  1900. 


INDUSTRIES. 

Year. 

Cost  of 

materials 

used. 

Value  of 
product*. 

Cost  of 
materials 
per  $100  of 
products. 

Cotton  manufacture ' 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

$176,551,527 
154,912,979 

181,169,127 
167,233,987 

62,406,665 
51,004,425 

51,071.8.59 
35, 861, 585 

32, 197, 885 
26,148,344 

17,958,137 
12, 385,  220 

$339,200,320 
267, 981, 724 

296, 990, 484 
270,527,511 

107,256,258 
87,298,454 

95,  482,  .566 
67,241,013 

47, 601,  607 
37,313,021 

44,963,331 
28,900,560 

$52. 05 

Wool  manufacture  2 

57.81 
61  00 

Silk  manufacture 

61.82 
68  18 

.58.43 
63.49 

Flax   hemp  and  jute  ^ 

53.33 
67  64 

Dyeing  and  finishing  textiles  . . . 

70.08 

39.94 
42.86 

1  Includes  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares. 

2  Includes  worsted  goods:  woolen  goods;  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag; 
felt  goods;  and  wool  hats. 

^Includes  cordage  and  twine;  jute  and  jute  goods;  and  linen  goods;  also  2 
establishments  claysified  in  1890  as  "  linen  thread." 


Table  T.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1810  TO  1900. 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 

Total. 

Cotton  manu- 
facture.' 

Wool  manu- 
£acture.2 

Silk  manu- 
facture. 

Hosiery  and 
knit  goods. 

Flax,  hemp, 
andjute.5 

Dyeing  and 
finishing 
textiles. 

1900      

$931, 494,  .566 

7,59,262,283 

632,673,488 

520,386,764 

214, 740, 614 

128,769,971 

67,047,452 

37,062,981 

9,247,225 

51,686,785 

$339,200,320 

267,981,724 

192,090,110 

177,489,739 

115,681,774 

61,869,184 

46,350,453 

22,5M.815 

4,834,167 

5  26,076,997 

$296,990,484 

270,527,511 

238,085,686 

199,2.57,262 

73,4.54,000 

48, 608,  779 

20,696,999 

14,528,166 

4,413,068 

626,608,788 

$107,256,258 

87,298,454 

41,033,045 

12,210,662 

6,607,771 

1,809,476 

$95, 482, 566 

67,241,013 

29, 167,  227 

18,411,564 

7,280,606 

1,028,102 

$47,601,607 
37,313,021 

$44  963  331 

1890 

■28,900,560 
32  297  420 

1880                .                                         

1870    

ni3,017,537 
11,716,463 

1860 



1850.                 

15  454  430 

1840 

1830 

1820 

1810 

1  Includes  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares. 

-  Includes  worsted  goods;  woolen  goods;  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag:  felt  goods;  and  wool  hats. 

^Includes  cordage  and  twine;  jute  and  jute  goods;   linen  goods;  and  two  establishments  in  1890  classified  as  "  linen  thread." 

*  At  the  census  of  1870  the  value  of  the  fabric  itself  was  reported,  whereas  in  all  subsequent  censuses  merely  the  value  added  to  such  fabric  by  the  process  of 

-  dyeing  and  finishing  is  given. 

6  Includes  manufactures  of  cotton  and  flax  in  families  and  otherwise. 

•  Includes  manufactures  of  wool  in  families  and  otherwise. 


The  comparison  between  cost  of  materials  and  value 
of  products  reflects  the  decline  already  noted  in  the  cost 
of  the  several  fibers  used  in  the  manufacture.  The  de- 
cline is  most  marked  in  the  case  of  cotton,  where  the 
co.st  of  materials  has  declined  $5.70  in  $100  of  product, 
whereas  in  wool  and  silk  the  decline  has  been  fractional. 
There  are  influences  which  serve  to  make  the  present 
cost  of  materials  more  uniform  than  would  be  expected 
from  the  large  difl'erence  in  the  price  per  pound  of  cot- 
ton, wool,  and  silk.     Thus,  the  percentage  of  amount 


employed  in  the  wool  manufacture  is  much  greater  than 
in  cotton,  and  the  higher  relative  cost  of  labor  due  to 
that  fact  neutralizes,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  greater 
cost  of  wool  per  pound.  On  the  other  hand,  the  co.st  of 
materials  in  flax,  hemp,  and  jute — the  most  inexpensive 
materials  entering  into  the  textile  industry — shows  a 
greater  percentage  than  either  of  the  other  branches, 
owing  to  the  small  amount  of  labor  required  for  hand- 
ling a  great  quantity  of  material. 

The  table  which  shows  the  value  of  product  during 


12 


MANUFACTURES. 


the  Nineteenth  century  makes  use  of  one  of  the  two 
only  j^tsmdai'ds  that  are  pos>;ible  for  estimating-  the  rehi- 
tive  importance  of  the  several  industrie.s  at  the  close  of 
each  decade.  The  tigures  given  for  1810,  1820,  1830, 
and  IS-tO  are  taken  from  the  report  made  to  Jame.s 
Guthrie,  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  in  1855,  the  most 
reliable  authority  for  these  j'ears.  The  cotton  manu- 
facture was  begun  in  Pawtucket,  K.  I.,  in  1791.  Prior 
to  the  War  of  1S12  there  was  no  mill  in  the  country 
which  carried  on  both  spinning  and  weaving  under  the 
same  management.  })ut  the  number  of  spinning  mills 
was  large. 

No  statement  of  the  value  of  the  wool  manufacture 
has  been  made  prior  to  the  year  1820.  It  will  be  seen 
that  at  that  time  the  cotton  manufacture  was  more 
than  live  times  as  great  in  value,  according  to  the  esti- 
mate, as  the  wool.  In  1830  wool  was  more  than  half 
as  important  as  cotton.  From  that  time  there  was  a 
stead}-  increase  of  both  industries,  which  has  been  con- 
tinued ever  since.  Cotton  greatly  outranked  wool  in 
1860,  but  the  interruption  of  the  cotton  manufacture 
which  resulted  from  the  Civil  War  gave  wool  an  advan- 
tage, which  is  to  be  seen  in  the  returns  for  1870  and 
1880,  and  to  a  verj^  slight  extent  in  1890;  but  at  the 
present  census  cotton  has  again  resumed  the  leadership 
which  before  the  Civil  W^ar  it  held  so  long. 

The  silk  manufacture  lirst  appears  in  1850,  and  at 
the  same  time  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  industry  was 
reported  separateh'  from  the  wool  manufacture.  Both 
of  these  industries  have  grown  enormously,  and  at  the 
present  time  the  value  of  the  silk  manufacture  is  more 
than  one-third  that  of  wool,  and  nearly  one-third  that 
of  cotton:  and  knit  goods  lag  but  little  in  the  rear. 

The  flax,  hemp,  and  jute  industrj'  has  always  existed, 
and  no  doubt  at  the  beginning  of  the  Government  under 
the  Constitution  the  production  of  cordage  far  exceeded 
in  value  that  of  any  other  branch  of  the  manufacture 
now  classed  as  textile.  It  has  assumed  great  importance 
in  modern  industry  in  consequence  of  the  immense 
demand  for  binding  twine. 

The  increase  of  dyeing  and  finishing  has,  of  covirse, 
kept  pace  with  the  other  textile  industries  of  which  it 
is  the  necessarv  concomitant.     It  should  be  noted  that 


the  amount  reported  as  the  value  of  dyeing  and  finish- 
ing in  1870  represents  the  value  of  the  finished  product. 
For  every  other  enumeration  it  is  simply  the  value 
added  to  thi'  product  of  other  establishments. 

CONSUMPTION    OK    TEXTILE    FIBERS. 

Table  8  presents  a  statement  of  the  consumption  of 
textile  fibers,  in  pounds,  from  1810  to  190(>,  and  fui'- 
nishes  a  measure  of  the  relative  growth  of  the  cotton, 
wool,  and  silk  industries. 


Table  S.— CONSUMPTION  OF  TEXTILE    FIBERS: 

1900. 


1S40  TO 


YEAKS. 

Cotton, 
pounds.' 

Wool, 
pounds.2 

Silk, 
pounds. 

1900                                              

1,910,509,193 
1,193,374,641 
798,344,83" 
430,781,937 
443, 845, 378 
288, 558,  OOO 
126, 000, 000 

412,323,430 
372, 797, 413 
296, 192, 229 
219,  970, 174 
98, 379, 785 
70,862,829 

9,760,770 
6, 376, 881 

l,syo 

2, 690, 482 

1870 

1860 

ISoO                                                      

684,488 
462,  965 

1840 

'  Includes  cotton  consumed  in  establishments  classed  as  cotton  goods,  cot- 
ton small  wares:  woolen  goods,  worsted  ^oods,  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag; 
felt  goods:  wool  hats:  and  hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

-Include>  wool  consumed  in  estiiblishments  classed  as  woolen  goods; 
worsted  goods,  carpels  and  rug;:,  other  than  rag:  felt  goods;  wool  hats;  and 
hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

The  indication  of  Table  8  is  substantially  the  same  as 
that  of  the  taljle  showing  the  value  of  products.  It  will 
be  seen  that  whereas  there  was  a  large  increase  in  the 
amount  of  wool  used  at  each  enumeration,  there  was  a 
decrease  of  cotton  from  1860  to  1870,  and  that  during 
the  twenty-year  period  from  1860  to  1880  the  amount 
of  wool  used  increased  threefold,  whereas  the  amount 
of  cotton  did  not  double  itself.  During  the  last  decade 
the  increase  of  wool  has  been  little  more  than  10  per 
cent,  whereas  the  increase  of  cotton  lias  been  more  than 
60  per  cent. 

EMPLOYEES   AND   THEIR   WAGES. 

Table  9  presents  the  total  number  of  wage-earners  in 
each  branch  of  the  industrv,  classified  as  men,  women, 
and  children,  and  the  wages  earned  during  the  census 
vear  1900. 


Table  9.— AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  WAGE-EARNERS  AND  TOTAL  WAGES,  BY  INDUSTRIES:  1900. 


IXDUSTRIES. 


Tl.tlU  . 


Cotton  manufacture: 

Cott(  n  goods 

Cotton  small  wares 

Wool  manufacture ' 

Silk  mmuifacture 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

Flax,  hemp,  and  jute- 

Dyeing  and  tinishing  textiles 


Average 
number. 


661,451 


297,929 
4,932 

159, 108 
65,416 
83,387 
20, 903 
29, 776 


Wages. 


S209,022,447 


85,126,310 
1,563,442 
57,933,817 
20, 982, 194 
24. 358, 627 
0,331,741 
12, 726, 316 


.MEN,  16  YEARS  AND  OVER. 


Average 
number. 


298, 867 


134,354 

1,867 
83,371 
24,206 
21,1.t4 

9,996 
24,419 


Wages. 


sua,  783, 713 


923, 365 
671,516 
412, 872 
699,  483 
890, 7:!8 
824, 555 
361,194 


WOME.S',    16    YEARS   AND 
OVER. 


Average 
number. 


292,286 


Wages. 


380,258,716 


917. 933 
828,  732 
549, 423 
377.  696 
243. 808 
174.152 
166, 972 


CHILDREN,    UNDER    16 
YEARS. 


Average 
number. 


39,866 
392 

ll.-'-'W 
6,413 
8,66S 
2,259 
1,101 


Wages.  • 


89,980,018 


5,285,012 
Ki.  194 

1.971..'i22 
90=1,015 

1,224.U91 
333. 034 
19S, 150 


'  Includes  worsted  goods:  woolen  goods;  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag:  felt  goods;  and  wool  hats. 
'Includes  cordage  and  twine:  jute  and  jute  goods;  and  linen  goods. 


COMBlNl':i)  'rKXTII.ES. 


13 


The  striking  fact  appears  that  the  average  number  of 
wage-earners  employed  diii'ini,''  the  entire  j'ear  in  the 
manufacture  and  finishing  of  all  the  cloth  necessai'y  for  a 
population  of  over  75.000,000  was  but  6-i0,54-8,  the  num- 
ber employed  in  flax.  hemp,  and  jute  being  deducted  from 
the  total  shown  in  this  tai)le.  It  is  a  remarkable  illus- 
tration of  the  power  of  machiner3^  that  much  less  than 
one  person  in  a  hundred  was  required  to  fui'nish  the 
materials  for  the  clothing  of  the  American  people.    The 


number  of  persons  employed  in  the  cotton  manufacture, 
including  cotton  small  wares,  was  almost  twice  as  great 
as  that  in  the  wool  manufacture,  which  again  was  nearly 
three  times  the  lunuber  of  persons  employed  in  silk 
mills. 

Table  10  shows  the  average  number  of  wage-earners, 
men,  women,  and  children,  in  the  several  branches  of 
the  industry  and  the  percentage  that  each  is  of  the  total 
for  1880,  1890.  and  1900. 


Table    lO.— AVERAGE   NUMBER    OF    WAGE-EARNERS,    AND    PROPORTION    OF    MEN,    WOMEN,    AND    CHILDREN: 

1880  TO  1900. 


Total 

Cotton  maiuifacture 

Wool  manufacture 

silk  manufaolure 

Ho^^iery  and  knit  goods 

Flax, hemp, and  jute 

Dyeing  and  linishing  textiles 


1900 

1890 

11880 


1900 

1890 

11880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 
1880 


AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF   WAGE-EARNERS. 


Total. 


661,451 
517,237 
384,251 


302, 861 
218, 876 
174, 659 

159, 108 
154,271 
132,  672 

65, 416 
49,382 
31,.S37 

83,387 
59,  588 
28,885 

20,903 
15, 519 

29,  776 
19,  601 
16, 698 


Men,  16 

years  and 

over. 


298,867 
223,712 
159,382 


135, 721 
88, 837 
61,760 

83, 371 
78,550 
67, 942 

24.206 
17,602 
9,375 

21,154 
14,846 
7,517 

9,996 
7,367 

24,419 
16,510 
12,788 


Women,  16 

years  and 

over. 


292,286 
250, 512 
169,806 


126,882 
106,607 
84,5.58 

64,141 
64,  944 
49,107 

34,797 
28,  914 
16,  396 

53,  .565 
40,  826 
17, 707 

8,648 
6,923 

4,253 
2,298 
2.038 


Children, 

under  16 

years. 


70,298 
43,013 
55,063 


40,2.58 
23, 432 
28,  341 

11,596 
10,777 
15,  623 

6,413 
2,866 
5,506 

8,668 
3,916 
3,661 

2,2.59 
1,229  ; 

1,104 

793 

1,872 


PER   CENT    OF  TOTAL. 


Men. 


45.2 
43.3 
41.5 


44.8 
40.6 
35.4 

.52.  4 
60.9 
61.2 

37.0 
35.6 
29.9 

25.4 
24.9 
26.0 

47.8 
47.5 

82.0 
84.2 
76.6 


Women. 


44.2 
48.4 
44.2 


41.9 

48.7 
48.4 

40.3 
42.1 
37.0 

53.2 
68.6 
62.3 

64.2 
68.5 
61.3 

41.4 
44.6 

14.3 

11.7 
12.2 


Children. 


10.6 
S.3 
14.3 


13.3 
10.7 
16.2 

7.3 

7,0 

11.8 

9.8 
5.8 
17.8 

10,4 
6.6 
12.7 

10.8 
7.9 

3.7 
4.1 
11.2 


1  Includes  2.115  officers  and  clerks  whose  salaries  are  not  reported. 


Table  10  shows  that  the  total  number  of  wage-earnei's 
increased  from  1880  to  1890.  and  from  1890  to  1900, 
in  each  ca.se,  b}-  about  140,000.  To  this  number  the 
wool  industry  contributed  but  slightly  (the  total  addi- 
tion in  twenty  j'ears  being  onl}'  26, -436),  whereas  the 
number  of  wage-earners  in  cotton,  in  silk,  in  hosiery, 
in  flax,  hemp,  and  jute,  and  in  dyeing  and  finishing  all 
increased  largely'.  The  increase  in  the  number  of  men 
during  the  pa.st  decade  was  75,155;  of  women,  41,771:; 
of  children,  27,285.  The  preponderance  of  increase  in 
the  case  of  men  is  shown  most  cleai'ly  in  the  columns 
showing  the  percentage.  In  the  industry  as  a  whole 
the  number  of  men  in  a  hundred  employed  has  increased 
from  41.5  in  1880  to  43.3  in  1890  and  to  45.2  in  1900. 
The  proportion  of  women  showed  an  increase  from  1880 
to  1890  of  from  44.2  to  48.4,  but  during  the  past  decade 
has  declined  to  44.2.  The  proportion  of  children  had 
decreased  in  the  twenty  years  from  14.3  to  10.6,  but 
shows  an  increase  during  the  last  decade,  owing  to  cir- 
cumstances which  have  alreadj'  been  mentioned. 


These  several  movements  afi'ecting  the  proportionate 
number  of  men.  women,  and  children  are  seen  most 
plainly  in  the  case  of  the  cotton  manufacture,  where 
the  proportion  of  men  has  increased  in  twenty  A'ears 
from  34.4  to  44.8,  and  during  the  same  period  the 
proportion  of  won)en  has  decreased  from  48.4  to  41.9. 
The  causes  of  the  shifting  of  employment  from  women 
to  men  is  di.scussed  in  the  report  upon  the  cotton  manu- 
facture. So  far  as  the  other  industries  are  concerned, 
there  has  been  little  change,  but  that  which  has  taken 
place  corresponds,  so  far  as  men  are  concerned,  to  the 
changes  just  noted,  but  a  considerable  decrease  in  the 
number  of  children  has,  in  some  ca.ses,  resulted  in  an 
increase  in  the  number  of  women  emplo^'ed. 

GEOGRAPHIC    DISTRIBUTION. 

Table  11  presents  a  comparative  summary  of  the 
industry  l)y  states  arranged  geographically,  exclusive 
of  flax,  hemp,  and  jute  for  1880,  1890,  and  I'tiin. 


14 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table   1 1.— COMPARATIVE    SUMMARY,    NOT    INCLUDING    FLAX,    HEMP,    AND    .JUTE,   BY    STATES    ARRANGED 

GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1880  TO  1900. 


United  States. 


New  England  states . 


New  Hampshire. 


Massachusetts . 


Rhode  Island. 


Connecticut . 


Middle  states. 


New  York. 


New  Jersey. 


Pennsylvania  . 


Delaware. 


Maryland 


Bouthern  slates. 


Virginia. 


West  Virginia  . 


North  Carolina. 


South  Carolina. 


Georgia. 


Kentucky 


Tennessee . 


1900 
1890 
1880 


1900 
1890 
18S0 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
n890 
'1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Ciipital. 


4,171  «1, 001, 005. 815 
4,114  739,973,661 
4,018    412,721,496 


1,124 
1,210 
1,214 


101 
107 
126 


118 
126 

43 
45 
58 


533 
496 

210 
204 

194 

190 
203 
214 

1,969 
1,914 
1,540 


528 
615 
480 


240 

186 

1,076 
1,010 

822 

16 
11 
13 

26 

38 


702 
486 
613 


53 
47 
56 

38 
33 

67 

225 
124 


72 
74 

46 

49 

103 

72 
69 
122 

45 

22 


624,899,362 
426,365,388 
261,561,147 


36.720,083 
30,990,097 
19,932,406 

44,107,098 
43,891,412 
31,247,024 

6, 724, 920 
5,491,280 
3,750,267 

273,  562, 835 
215,2.>1,813 
120,443,376 

97,444,185 
70, 699,  470 
46, 989, 447 

66,340,241 
60, 038, 346 
39, 198, 637 

30", 765, 676 
222, 402,  .S55 
115, 483, 359 


93, 392, 958 
75,881,672 
42,022,987 

76, 183, 937 
43,321,016 
16,028,770 

126, 346, 788 
92,686,227 
51,238,747 

2,174,398 
2, 555, -233 
1,227,129 

9, 667, 594 
7, 958, 707 
4,965,726 

137,172,561 
62,623,729 
20,413,414 


6, 759, 667 
4,089,511 
1,646,850 

1, 212, 971 
408,881 
328, 170 

34,458,422 
11,195,122 
3,068,900 

39,  767, 684 
11,144,233 
2,784,000 

25,606,170 
18,171,990 
6, 543, 390 

3,951,418 
4,142,816 
1,255,750 

6,384,194 
4,322,336 
1,564,264 

11,944,398 
2,965,713 
1,276,400 


SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 


Number. 


16, 181 
'  10, 179 

(?) 


8,633 
3,824 


350 
217 


382 
330 


109 
70 


2,713 
1,711 


1,116 
648 


963 
551 


7,165 
4,467 


2,070 
1,469 


1,740 

778 


3,114 
2,104 


160 
89 


2,222 
1,118 


121 
80 


769 
260 


448 
121 


397 

244 


66 
109 


123 
121 


Salaries. 


822,331,972 
111,930,750 


9,527,370 
4, 918, 773 


172 
55 


55,5,963 
302, 438 


622, 437 
419, 199 


147,128 
72,438 


4, 744, 037 
2, 498, 825 


2, 034, 498 
821,685 


1,423,307 
801,188 


8,924,195 
5,076,869 


2,707,559 
1,829,231 


2, 478. 193 
964,171 


3,426,774 
2,147,210 


113,896 
37,948 


197,773 
108,309 


2, 465, 059 
960,968 


136, 789 
59,765 


32,830 
13,282 


652, 124 
186, 825 


664,863 
136,080 


491,604 
216, 276 


84,323 
111,694 


137,337 
99,485 


211,2.51 
47, 318 


WAGE-EARNERS. 


Average 
number. 


640, 548 

501,718 

8  384,261 


286,469 
256,018 
217,674 


21,938 
19,  794 
15,869 

29,533 
29,243 
24, 743 

3,613 
2,970 
3,204 

149,039 
125,108 
106, 743 

49, 877 
47,426 
36,622 

32,469 
31,477 
30,493 

221, 944 
180,669 
132,884 


64,734 
60,924 
45,153 

46,985 
33,934 
24, 111 

101,845 
79,277 
58,005 

1,882 
1,606 
1,058 

6,498 
6,028 
4,657 

109,501 
43,660 
19,409 


5,611 
2,870 
1,477 

924 
291 
365 

32,367 
9,016 
3,528 

30,636 
8, 072 
2,066 

20,117 
10, 866 
6, 629 

2,335 
2, 767 
1,181 

4,261 
3,051 
1,446 

8,592 
2,510 
1,608 


Total  wages. 


8202, 690,  706 
163,616,693 
106,050,666 


101,934,256 
86, 973, 178 
60,611,202 


7, 369, 946 
6, 277, 442 
4,204,778 

10,088,051 
9,624,933 
6,904,069 

1,253,388 

1,043,  .588 

807, 048 

63,819,143 
43,091,382 
29,801,616 

17,863,957 
16,013,599 
10,127,287 

11,839,771 
10,922,234 
8, 766,  404 

74, 632,  681 
62, 435,  733 
38,013,381 


22, 606, 600 
20,8.34,522 
12, 6,52, 423 

17, 188, 137 
12, 760, 224 
7,662,833 

32,624,316 
27, 089, 420 
16,560,274 

621, 729 
508, 169 
301,231 

1,591,899 

1,253,398 

846,620 

19,858,949 
8,810,088 
3,254,936 


1,272,256 
668,394 
241,609 

211,782 
66,098 
51,361 

5, 492, 194 

1,660,904 

462,  854 

5, 162, 931 

1,510,609 

382. 017 

3, 872, 313 
2,274,946 
1,166,654 

616,780 
692,400 
231,765 

790,031 
635, 610 
228, 134 

1,526,759 
467,818 
243,035 


Miscellane. 
ous  ex- 
peuses. 


860,444,630 
43,356,736 


26, 403, 681 
24,601,029 


2,358,238 
1,867,550 


2,264,958 
2,339,287 


282,863 
301,466 


13, 072, 020 
12,930,047 


5,222,431 
4,260,785 


3,203,171 
2,801,894 


26,481,180 
14,352,458 


6, 683, 087 
4,840,584 


7, 309, 634 
2, 952, 104 


11,783,429 
6, 052,  430 


175,615 
122, 690 


529,415 
384,660 


Cost  of 

materials 

used. 


8489,147,315 
421,398.196 
302, 709, 894 


222,297,461 
211,974,969 
172,223,778 


1.5,524,745 
14,49.5,290 
12, 148, 526 

20, 675, 482 
22,225,159 
18,809  037 

3,373,931 
2, 626, 232 
2,881,935 

113, 3M,  739 
107,46.5,624 
84,228,717 

42,458,004 
37,911,493 
27, 708, 649 

26,910,560 
27,251,161 
26, 446, 914 

187,031,904 
161,124.639 
106,328,536 


Value  of 

products. 


8,488,519 
2,691,420 


292,461 
177, 780 


97, 913 
27, 708 


1,  099,  890 
442,  0,66 


1,566,800 
528, 236 


1, 14.5, 149 
751,615 


173,392 
246,643 


239, 289 
230,116 


530, 323 
168,  734 


60, 273,  512 
47,621,495 
30, 610, 901 

38, 795, 102 
29,682,210 
17,456,679 

92,301.866 
78,869,158 
53, 999, 549 

1,377,168 

1,007,270 

975,  490 

4,284,266 
3,944,400 
3,285,917 

63, 624, 678 
32,624,416 
12,781,692 


3,322,334 
1,998,558 
1, 023, 471 

684,417 
226,  %1 
290,343 

18.290,228 
6,  553, 635 
1,  719, 352 

17, 602, 800 
6, 820, 132 
1,827,755 

12,207,426 
8,038,042 
4, 203, 557 

2,030,684 
2.300,959 
1,107,523 

2, 266, 543 

2, 526, 198 

976, 816 

4.978,680 

1,673.938 

833.072 


8*83.892,969 
721,949,262 
532,673,488 


412,875. 
365,613 
310,542, 


29,  394 
24,911 
21,470 

37. 495, 
37,256, 
32, 757, 

5, 6.57, 
4,744 
4,671 

213,612, 
184, 93«, 
152,988, 

77,988, 
67,005, 
51,383, 

48,  728, 
46, 757 
47, 271 

334,247, 
279,  576, 
183,443, 


93, 819, 
86, 171 
56,191 

72, 933, 
82, 831 
31,866, 

167,333, 
132, 36' 
88, 594, 

2,592, 
1,821 
1,536, 

7,668, 
6,385, 
6,2.56, 

107,318, 
49, 729, 
20,381 


5, 762, 
2,964, 
1,618 

98' 

395, 

413, 

29,996, 
10, 053, 
2, 857, 

30,274, 
9,  ,S01 
2, 919, 

20, 266, 
12,  460, 
6,  749, 

3, 274 
3, 785, 
1,689, 

3,907, 
3, 724 
1,495, 

8,414 

2, 398, 
1,291 


975 
324 
352 


372 
165 
567 

180 
364 
36B 

217 
326 

041 

791 
074 
822 

396 
615 
569 

019 
780 
300 

580 
396 
725 


518 
293 
417 

823 
023 
348 

201 
499 
US 

201 
278 
260 

867 
303 
557 

831 
674 
689 


329 
171 
930 

622 
700 
586 

658 
264 
642 

086 
956 

844 

712 
098 

784 

519 
436 
694 

279 
138 
441 

020 
646 
764 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  tirm  members,  with  their  salaries:  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  thi! 
industry. ) 

2  Not  reported  separately. 

^Includes  2.116  officers  and  clerks  whose  salaries  were  not  reported. 

<Not  reported. 

'Includes  the  reports  from  1  establishment  in  Florida  not  reported  separately. 


table.     ^Sce  detailed  summary  fur  each 


combinp:d  textiles. 


15 


Table   11.— COMPARATIVE    SUMMARY,    NOT    INCLUDING    FLAX,   HEMP,    AND    JUTE,    BY    STATES    ARRANGED 

GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1880  TO  1900— Continued. 


Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 

WAGE- EARNERS. 

Miscellane- 
ous ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of 

materials 

used. 

Value  of 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Average 
number. 

Total  wages. 

products. 

Southern  slates— Continued. 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

11 
16 
16 

15 

8 
27 

3 

6 
2 

8 
5 
3 

376 
504 
651 

$2,538,499 
3,607,198 
1,453,640 

293,353 
164,236 
160,550 

1,741,688 

1,516,660 

195,000 

2,  .514, 097 
895. 034 
147,. 500 

31,168,217 
28,581,689 
16,263,576 

55 
43 

$72,418 
38,264 

2,010 

2,223 

940 

198 
103 
154 

1,335 

1,237 

108 

1, 125 
644 
107 

22,634 
21,381 
14,284 

$400,188 
658,987 
186,314 

36,290 
16,866 
20,565 

282,536 

267,468 

12,572 

295, 889 
190,999 
28, 166 

6,264.820 
5.397.594 
3,171.147 

$136,684 
75,676 

$884,160 

1,380,009 

648.795 

111,498 
46,657 
119,277 

684,324 

737,212 

72, 470 

761,888 
424,218 
59,262 

16,193,232 
15,674,282 
11,376,888 

$1,670,153 

2,267,583 

978, 698 

11 
12 

7,428 
5,250 

4,985 
8,775 

199,471 

71,913 

177  430 

Louisiana                           

18 
16 

26, 941 
22,574 

79,887 
16,660 

131,066 
28, 661 

1  162  752 

1,126,761 
86  776 

Texas              

31 
20 

47,151 
24, 155 

1  403  330 

700,018 
102  100 

Western  states  .  

1,171 
1,070 

1,4)5,348 
977, 140 

2,071,2.50 
1.811.829 

29,450,673 
27,029,868 
18, 306, 722 

Ohio        

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
ISSO 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

'1900 

11890 

1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

67 
125 
163 

61 
44 
51 

35 
61 
95 

66 
60 
53 

37 

75 
85 

27 
25 
15 

14 
20 
37 

29 
45 
109 

4,019,267 
4, 820,  .526 
2, 323, 340 

3,652,060 

1,691,461 

726, 189 

6,553,302 
5,431,065 
3.413,105 

5, 440, 759 
4,603,613 
1,559.964 

4,  345, 696 
4,119,496 
1,825,203 

1,246,829 
816,144 
203,500 

620,164 
896,741 
555,700 

702,309 

896,020 

1,665,650 

166 
210 

165,297 
189,614 

2,834 
3,760 
2,839 

3,563 
1,551 
1,397 

4,672 
4,283 
2.784 

4,135 
3,747 
1,146 

3,361 
3,871 
2.337 

593 
439 
263 

366 
494 
605 

441 

733 

1.360 

796.276 
940.904 
511.923 

873, 902 
366, 098 
185,364 

1,393,936 

1.010,179 

662,310 

998,616 
807,483 
286,666 

961,332 

1,113,005 

655,209 

168,251 
135,282 
6.5,327 

82.826 
146. 170 
118,262 

112.621 
163,215 
235,107 

364,7.52 
314,894 

2, 690, 483 
3,233,787 
1.780,099 

2. 860. 219 

1.110.018 

624,241 

2,949,048 
3.208,276 
2,687,954 

2,516,810 
2,399,217 
1,096,474 

2,205,394 
2,429,564 
1,937,336 

469,667 
398,300 
190,867 

213,769 
629,832 
437,301 

325,785 

452,068 

1,105,497 

4, 828, 889 
5,437,483 
3, 032, 669 

Michigan 

243 

84 

225,338 
64, 898 

340,247 
119,060 

4, 878, 984 

1,964,974 

928, 766 

Indiana .  . 

197 
1,51 

316, 612 
13«,884 

323, 926 
379,881 

5  561  460 

6,214,211 
4,074,576 

4, 667, 294 
4,100,201 
1,827,275 

Wisconsin 

197 
137 

244,319 
145,450 

365,213 
279,328 

Illinois        

148 
201 

211,605 
202,330 

294,943 
234,465 

4,087,369 
4,666,116 
2,980,116 

MlDnesota..               ... 

41 
36 

50.107 
35.421 

67,648 
70,917 

906  904 

730,468 
303, 378 

Iowa          

38 
45 

29.321 
36.470 

24.722 
53,069 

386,056 
899,918 
682,  812 

Missouri          

25 
71 

28,628 
41,052 

27.472 
38,608 

668, 02< 

798,736 

1,563,641 

Kansas 

6 

13 

14 
12 

12 
6 
10 

14 
20 

14 

11 
9 

1 

141,425 

.509,881 
612, 679 
402,000 

1,178.370 

1,350,586 

666,800 

1,819,481 
3,23.5,263 
1,840,800 

1,080,099 
109,197 
40,000 

126 

291 
324 
306 

675 
358 
216 

922 

1.733 

986 

781 
88 
29 

26,076 

92,614 
104,601 
70,208 

209.421 
142.538 
86,088 

340, 420 
448,224 
375.718 

234,807 
19,895 
4,000 

107.401 

148,157 
189.  .339 
150.698 

467.205 
327.502 
227,486 

886,260 
1,238,067 
1,078,534 

470,486 
58,312 
52,000 

212. 065 

Utah.                          .... 

27 
20 

15,310 
16,575 

22,333 
29,301 

292,200 
392,094 
287,361 

Oregon 

30 
44 

33,420 
32,775 

74,863 
86,906 

901,512 
614,932 
649,030 

California 

40 

61 

51,668 
68,366 

100,821 
199,373 

1,463,936 
2,080,215 
1,794,033 

All  other  Western  slates" 

29 
10 

44,023 
5,306 

64,311 
6,037 

907,942 

130,531 
70.000 

'Included  in  "all  other  Western  .states." 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows;    1900— Colorado.  2;  Idaho,  2;    Kansas,  2;   Montana,!;    Nebraska,  2;    North  Dakota,  1;    Wyoming,!. 
Colorado,  2;  Idaho,  1;  Kansas,  2;  Nebraska,  1;  South  Dakota,  2;  Washington,  1.    1880— Washington,  1. 


1890— 


A  compari.son  of  the  facts  relating  to  the  textile  in- 
dustiy  by  geographic  divisions  and  states  illustrates 
a  condition  that  has  existed  from  the  beginning  and 
which  is  undergoing  a  slow  but  steady  change,  namely, 
that  the  establishments  engaged  in  this  manufacture 
are  concentrated  most  densely  in  the  Northeastern  part 
of  the  country,  but  that  the  Southern  states  are  rapidly 
advancing  in  the  number  and  importance  of  their  estab- 
lishments. The  capital  in  the  year  1900  reported  by 
the  New  England  states  is  slightly  more  than  one-half 


of  the  whole  countr}-;  in  1890  it  was  57.6  per  cent, 
and  in  1880  it  was  63.4  per  cent.  A  somewhat  similar 
condition  is  shown  in  the  number  of  wage-earners,  the 
amount  paid  for  wages,  the  cost  of  materials,  and  the 
value  of  products.  The  percentages  differ  from  those 
given  for  capital,  but  in  general  the  importance  of  New 
England,  as  shown  Iw  the.se  items,  is  nearly  or  quite  that 
of  all  the  rest  of  the  countrj-,  but  is  less  than  it  was  in 
1890,  and  still  less  than  the  condition  in  1880. 
Among  the  New  England  states  Massachusetts  is,  as 


16 


MANUFAO^rrilES. 


it  has  alwa^'S  been,  conspicuously  in  the  lead.  Practi- 
cally ono-half  of  the  capital,  the  employees,  the  wages 
paid,  materials  used,  and  products  are  to  he  credited  to 
that  state.  Rhode  Island  is  second  among  the  New 
England  states,  and  Connecticut  is  third,  this  order 
having  been  ohserv(>d  without  variation  ever  since  the 
textile  manufacture  existed  in  the  United  States. 

Taking  capital  as  the  standard,  the  Middle  states 
represent  30.7  per  cent  of  the  total  for  the  country, 
Penn.sylvania  being  first.  New  York  second,  and  New 
Jersey  third. 

The  sudden  springing  of  the  Southern  states  into 
prominence  in  this  industry  is  shown  strikingly  by 
the  total  increase  of  capital  from  $20,413,414  in  1880 
to  *(i2,»;23,729   in  1890,  and  to  1137,172,561   in  1900. 


Ten  years  ago,  and  also  in  1880,  Georgia  was  easily  the 
leader  among  the  Southern  states.  !)ut  it  has  now 
been  surpassed  by  both  South  Carolina  and  North  Caro- 
lina, in  each  of  which  states  the  value  of  products  was 
not  much  less  than  in  the  states  of  Maine  and  New 
Hampshire,  when;  the  industry  has  been  established 
for  half  acentur3';  and  in  the  immber  of  hands  employed 
both  North  and  South  Carolina  surpass  both  of  these 
two  New  England  states.  The  growth  in  Alal)ama  has 
been  also  very  great,  the  amount  of  capital  having  almost 
exactly  quadrupled  in  ten  years. 

The  situation  in  the  Western  states  is  not  difierent 
from  that  which  has  previously  existed.  The  textile 
industry  has  never  obtained  a  strong  foothold  in  these 
states,  and  shows  no  great  tendenc\-  to  become  miportant. 


COTTON   MANUFACTURES, 


MON TEXT 2  ,j_. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


B}'  Edward  Stanwood.  Expert  Sjxc'mI  Ayent. 


Civilized  man  liiids  three  things  absolutely  essential 
to  his  life  and  ennifort — food,  sheltm',  and  clothing;-. 
Tile  labor  neeossary  to  procure  tht>  indispensable  arti- 
cles which  represent  thes(>  wants  diminishes  as  one  ap- 
proaches the  equatoi',  and  conversely  it  increases  as  one 
passes  from  tori'id  to  tcmpei'ate  climates  and  thence 
onward  toward  the  poles  of  the  eai'th.  Tillage  of  the 
soil,  the  construction  of  dwellings,  and  the  conversion 
of  skins  and  furs  or  of  vegetable  or  animal  fibei's  into 
clothing,  are  arts  which  estaV)lish  themselves  naturally 
wherever  man  tixes  his  abode.  The  provision  of  shel- 
ter always  remains  a  local  art.  from  the  necessity  of  the 
case.  An  adequate  supply  of  fu(d,  which  is  a  (oncomi- 
tant  of  shelter,  was  frequently  the  first  want  for  which 
pioneer  communities  in  early  times  were  compelled 
to  provide  from  without.  Next  they  supplemented 
their  own  [irmision  of  clothing  with  fabrics  and  gar- 
ments made  elsewhere:  and  finally  as  population  l)e- 
came  dense,  a!id  labor  was  drawn  from  agriculture  and 
was  specialized  in  commerce  and  manufactures,  they 
were  obliged  to  import  their  food. 

In  the  sense  indicated,  the  colonists  of  America  were 
engaged  in  all  the  arts  necessary  to  suppl}'  their  own 
wants,  and  among  those  arts  was  the  manufacture  of 
cloth  and  of  clothing.  They  were  prohibited  b^-  the 
laws  of  the  mother  country-  from  carrying  on  manufac- 
tures for  purposes  of  trade  and  profit,  but  the  house- 
hold manufacture  always  existed.  A  considerable  part 
of  their  clothing  was  made  from  domestic  material,  spun 
and  woven  in  their  homes,  and  made  up  by  members  of 
their  own  families.  When  Hamilton  wrote  his  great 
Report  on  Manufactures,  in  1791,  he  referred  to  certain 
branches  of  the  textile  industry  as  already  established, 
yet  at  that  time  there  was  but  one  cotton  factory-  where 
spinning  was  carried  on  by  means  of  machinery  moved 
by  waterpower,  and  that  factory  had  been  established 
less  than  a  year  and  had  but  72  spindles.  There  were 
no  woolen  mills  in  the  modern  sense  of  the  term,  l)ut 
there  were  many  fullingmills  where  wool  was  prepared 
for  household  spinning. 

Although  some  progress  was  made  during  the  next 
twentv  years,  it  was  not  until  the  War  of  1812  cut  off 
foreign  supplies  that  the  cotton  manufacture  was  truly 
"established."  Since  that  time  it  has  expanded  steadily 
and    marvelouslv.      During  everv   decade,    not    even 


excepting  that  which  covered  the  3'ears  of  the  Civil  War, 
there  has  been  an  increase  in  the  lumiiier  of  operatives 
employed  and  in  the  quantity  and  value  of  the  goods 
manufactured.  The  census  of  1850  showed  a  total 
value  of  products  of  161.869,184.  Ten  years  later, 
in  1860,  the  value  of  products  had  almost  doubled, 
being  ^115,681,774.  In  1870  the  value  had  increased  to 
$177,489,739,  a  large  part  of  the  increase  being  due  to 
inflation  of  the  currency.  The  decline  to  normal  price 
in  the  ensuing  decade  masked  the  actual  growth  of  the 
industry,  and  in  1880  the  value  of  products  was  only 
$192,()90,11().  In  1890  the  value  was  ^2(;7,!t81.724;  at 
the  census  of  1900  it  was  $339.200,320^five  and  a  half 
times  as  much  as  in  1850,  when  it  was  alread}-  the  lead- 
ing manufacturing  interest  in  the  United  States.  It 
was  the  first,  th;^  largest,  and  the  most  typical  factory 
industry  in  the  country,  and  still  holds  its  ranks,  almost 
undisputed,  in  all  these  respects. 

The  growth  of  the  industry  is  sufficient  proof,  were 
such  proof  needed,  that  it  has  been  profitable.  Never- 
theless it  has  ])een  subjected  to  many  and  sometimes 
protracted  seasons  of  discouragement  and  loss.  The 
margin  between  the  price  of  a  pound  of  raw  cotton  and 
that  of  a  pound  of  goods,  whether  yarn  or  cloth,  is,  in 
the  face  of  the  keen  competition  which  exists,  so  small 
that  the  profits  of  a  mill  during  a  whole  year  may  de- 
pend upon  the  luck  or  judgment  of  the  treasurer  in 
buying  his  raw  material  at  the  right  or  the  wrong  sea- 
sou,  which  in  turn  lai'gelj'  depends  upon  his  skill  or  his 
fortune  in  forecasting  a  large  or  a  small  cotton  crop.  So 
far  as  that  were  the  case,  what  one  treasurer  might  lose 
another  treasurer  would  gain,  and  the  ultimate  effect 
upon  the  profits  of  the  industry  as  a  whole  would  be 
nil.  But  the  fact  of  a  large  or  a  small  cotton  crop 
makes  an  enormous  difference  in  the  profits  of  manu- 
facturers. The  general  condition  of  the  country  deter- 
mines the  demand  for  goods,  and  consequently  the 
price ;  but  the  cost  of  production  depends  greatly  upon 
the  price  of  cotton.  Cheap  cotton  and  a  (]uick  demand 
make  the  manufacture  profitable;  dear  cotton,  a  slug- 
gish rate  of  consumption,  and  labor  troubles  reduce  or 
extinguish  profits.  Unfortunately  the  latter  set  of  con- 
ditions is  too  often  presented.  Fortunately  it  is  not 
usually  met  in  so  virulent  a  form  as  to  cause  actual 
loss,  and  the  situation  does  not  ordinarily  last  long. 

1 19) 


20 


MANL'FACTIKKS. 


Upon  the  whole,  the  lii.stoiv  of  the  piist  ten  yeuis 
was  not  one  of  prevailing  prosperity.  Two  influences 
interfered  to  reduce  proflts — an  extremely  wide  fluctua- 
tion in  the  price  of  cotton,  and  th(>  jjreat  iiici-easc  of 
competition  caused  by  the  growth  of  the  industry  in 
the  Southern  states.  The  first  of  these  influences  was 
genei-al  in  its  application;  thi>  other  applied  to  Northern 
mills  only.  The  new  Southern  mills,  equipped  with  the 
most  efficient  machinery,  favored  by  peculiarly  free 
conditions  as  to  labor,  chiefly  engaged  in  the  produc- 
tion of  goods  for  which  the  demand  was  most  steady, 
and  helped  not  a  little  l)y  close  proximity  to  the  field  of 
supply  of  their  raw  material,  were  able  to  show  con- 
stant and  large  profits;  whereas  their  Northern  compet- 
itors passed  through  seasons  of  no  profit  or  of  moderate 
gains,  with  only  one  or  two  periods  when  their  business 
was  eminentlj'  satisfactory. 

The  condition  throughout  the  census  yeai'  1889-90 
was  highly  favorable  to  manufacturers,  and  they  made 
extraordinary  profits.  Barely  1  per  cut  of  the  cotton 
spindles  in  the  country  was  idle,  and  most  of  those 
were  so  because  they  were  anticjuated  and  not  worth 
running.  But  a  rise  in  the  price  of  cotton,  from  10 
cents  a  pound  in  January',  1890,  to  11^  cents  in  April, 
brought  discouragement,  because  a  slackened  demand 
for  goods  compelled  a  reduction  in  the  price  of  cloth  at 
the  same  time  that  the  cost  of  producing  it  was  in- 
creased. The  change  to  unfavorable  conditions  was 
felt  first  in  the  great  print-cloth  center,  at  Fall  River, 
where  a  stoppage  of  the  mills  and  a  general  curtailment 
of  production  became  necessary  in  August.  Other 
branches  of  the  cotton  manufacture  continued  fairly 
profitable  for  a  few  months  longer,  l)ut  before  the  end 
of  the  year  all  liranches  were  depressed.  There  was, 
nevertheless,  a  somewhat  speedy  recovery;  an  improve- 
ment .set  in  quite  early  in  the  .spring  for  all  except 
print  cloths,  which  continued  to  be  weak.  Thei'e  was 
an  extraordiiuuy  fall  in  the  price  of  cotton,  owing  to 
the  prospect  of  a  large  crop,  from  12f  cents  in  May, 
1891,  to  8  cents  in  June.  Notwithstanding  this  favor- 
able turn  of  the  market,  the  Northern  mills  felt  the  first 
check  to  prosperity,  owing  to  Southern  competition. 
Again  in  September  of  that  year  it  became  necessary 
both  to  curtail  production  by  the  Fall  River  mills  and 
to  reduce  wages.  This  time  the  means  taken  were 
efi'ectual.  Stocks  were  worked  ofl'  and  the  market  de- 
mand became  strong.  Accordingly  the  year  1892  was 
one  of  the  good  years  of  the  industrj-.  No  complaints 
were  heard  from  any  part  of  the  country. 

In  189.3  there  was  once  more  a  reverse.  Cotton 
manufacturing  in  England,  which  had  been  in  an  ex- 
traordinarih'  depressed  state  in  1892,  now  became  pros- 
perous, whereas  in  the  United  States  it  was  dull  and 
unsatisfactory.  In  August  there  were  strikes  and 
closing  of  mills,  and  the  unfavorable  conditions  con- 
tinued throughout  the  year  1894.  No  doubt  appre- 
hension   by   manufacturers    of   tarifl'    legislation    less 


favorable  to  their  interests  than  the  existing  import 
duties  went  far  to  (-reate  the  difficulties  with  which 
they  contended.  The  passage  of  the  act  of  1894-,  how- 
ever, did  no  injury  to  the  interests  of  the  manufac- 
turers, and  the  industry  revived,  and  was  in  a  jjrosper- 
ous  condition  in  1895.  Stocks  were  small,  prices  were 
fair,  and  although  cotton  was  higher,  the  results  of  the 
year  were  remunerative.  This  was  brought  about 
because  mills  were  well  pi'ovided  with  stocks  of  low- 
priced  cotton  of  the  189-1  crop,  and  the  prospect  of  a 
short  crop  in  1895  gave  tone  to  the  market  for  cloth. 
Orders  were  large,  prices  advanced,  machinery  was  in 
full  operation,  and  the  year  1895  ended  with  excellent 
prospects  of  a  contiiuiance  of  prosperity. 

These  prospects  were  not  realized.  Early  in  1896  the 
market  demand  began  to  decline,  and  as  the  machinery 
continued  in  operation,  goods  accumulated.  The  situa- 
tion became  such  that  in  June,  efforts  were  made  by 
means  of  auction  sales  of  large  stocks  of  goods  to 
I'educe  the  surplus.  There  was  also  the  suggestion 
that  there  be  once  more  an  organized  curtailment 
of  production,  which  was  not  carried  out.  The  at- 
tempt to  work  ofl'  the  surplus  goods  was  successful, 
and  the  prospects  of  manufacturers  brightened  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  but  it  was  soon  discovered  that  the  market 
had  been  choked.  Cotton  advanced  in  price,  narrow- 
ing the  margin  between  the  cost  of  raw  cotton  and  the 
selling  value  of  finished  goods,  and  the  demand  was  not 
great  enough  to  absor!)  the  output  of  the  largely  in- 
creased number  of  mills.  The  depression  that  existed 
in  189t)  was  due  to  the  agitation  and  uncertainty  that 
always  prevail  in  a  3-ear  of  Presidential  election,  which 
were  in  this  instance  more  acute  than  usual.  But  the 
peculiar  situation  of  the  two  markets  that  determine 
the  financial  result  of  a  cotton  manufacturer's  opera- 
tions prolonged  the  depression,  and  continued  it  after 
other  ])ranches  of  business  had  begun  to  experience  the 
great  prosperitj'  that  marked  the  closing  3-ears  of  the 
century.  Many  mills  were  shut  down  in  May  and  June, 
1897.  Renewed  sales  of  goods  by  auction  in  the  spring 
broke  prices  and  demoralized  the  market,  as  well  as 
reduced  to  pettj'  proportions  the  demand  for  goods  of 
current  manufacture.  There  was  another  curtailment 
of  production,  then  a  great  drop  in  the  price  of  cotton; 
but  the  quick  absorption  of  goods,  owing  to  the  gen- 
erally prosperous  condition  of  the  people,  rectified  the 
situation  altogether,  and  manufacturers  entered  upon 
a  somewhat  prolonged  period  of  great  prosperity. 
The  only  interruption  was  in  the  print-cloth  branch, 
which  was  in  a  very  unfavorable  condition  at  Fall 
River  in  189S,  and  the  average  return  upon  capital  by 
the  mills  of  that  city  for  the  year  was  only  2.2  percent. 
But  prosperity  came  to  Fall  River  also  during  the  year 

1899,  beginning  about  th»^  month  of  March,  and  during 
the  whole  of  the  census  year,  from  June,  1899.  to  June, 

1900,  all  the  mills  of  the  country  were  fully  occupied. 
Goods   were   produced   from    cotton    costing   within  £, 


COTTON  MANUFACTL'IiES. 


21 


i^'action  of  the  lowest  on  record,  and  iilthoui^li  tliey  were 
sold  at  prices  which  were  low  as  compared  with  tlie 
averaffe  for  any  five  years  in  the  j)ast,  yet  they  yielded 
a  profit  which,  takiiiff  the  country  as  a  whole,  has  never 
been  exceeded. 

It  must  always  be  home  in  mind  that  the  forej>()injr 
statements  apply  more  particularly  to  cstsihlishments. 
and  to  the  conditions  of  trade  in  the  manufacturing' 
centers  of  the  North.  Prior  to  the  close  of  tiie  census 
year  there  had  been  scarcel}'  any  interruption  of  the 
exceeding  prosperity  of  Southern  spinners.  Thev  did 
not  curtail  production  when  many  Northern  manufac- 
turers were  in  a  state  bordering  upon  despair:  on  the 
contrary,  a  large  number  of  their  mills  were  running 
day  and  night.  They  did  not  seek  to  dispose  of  their 
product  by  auction,  but  sold  all  they  could  make  at  prices 
which  gave  their  stockholders  handsome  dividends. 

THE    FOREIGN    TRADE    IN    COTTON    GOODS. 

It  is  further  to  be  noted  in  this  connection  that  for 
the  first  time  in  the  history  of  American  cotton  manu- 
facturing, the  domestic  market  was  more  than  once 
relieved  and  steadied  by  the  exportation  of  goods  to 
foreign  markets.  This  sttitement  does  not  signify  that 
the  export  of  domestics  is  a  new  thing,  for  it  was  a 
feature  of  the  American  foreign  trade  eighty  years 
ago,  but  that  for  the  first  time  the   existence  of  an 


important  outlet  for  such  goods  saved  manufacturers 
from  a  disastrous  glut,  and  mitigated  the  keenness  of 
the  competition  that  became  most  s(>rious  when  the 
South  entered  the  market  as  a  great  producer. 

The  history  of  the;  trade  of  the  Fnited  States  in 
cotton  goods  presents  some  peculiarities  wliich  distin- 
guish it  from  the  trade  in  any  other  cla.ss  of  articles. 
In  a  broad  stMise  the  cotton  manufacturers  have  pos- 
sessed th(^  home  market  for  three-quarters  of  a  century. 
Nevertheless,  in  the  intervening  years  there  has  been 
a  lai'ge  and  important  import  trade.  The  seeming 
parado.x  disappears  when  the  first  of  the  following 
tables  is  critically  examined.  The  imports  consist 
mostly  of  goods  which  American  manufacturers  have 
never  undertaken  to  produce  on  a  large  scale.  An 
overwhelming  proportion  of  the  manufactures  of  cot- 
ton consumed  in  this  and  other  countries  consists  of 
plain  cloth  wo\en  from  coarse  or  medium  yarns.  Save 
in  a  few  exceptional  years,  the  American  manufacturers 
have  been  al)le  to  supply  fully  the  demand  for  such 
goods.  Meanwhile  the  arrangement  of  the  tarifl  has 
been  usually  such  that  foreign  manufacturers  were  not 
permitted  to  compete  successfully  in  this  market. 

Table  1  shows  the  annual  impoits  of  manufactures  of 
cotton  from  1821  to  1900,  inclusive,  as  compiled  from 
the  annual  reports  on  Conmierce  and  Navigation,  pub- 
lished by  the  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


T.^BLE  1.— ANNUAL  IMPORTS  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  COTTON,  1821  TO  1900,  INCLUSIVE.^ 


Total 
value. 

CLOTHS. 

Value  of 
clothing, 

ready- 
made,  and 
other  wear- 
ingapparel, 
not  includ- 
ing knit 
goods 

Value  of 
embroider- 
ies, laces, 
insertings. 
trimmings, 
and  lace 
curtains, 
cords,  and 
gimps. 

Value  of 

knit  good^i 

made  on 

knitting 

machines 

or  knit  by 

hand. 

THREAD 

(NOT  O.N 

.lEASS,  DENISIS,  AND 
DRILLINGS. 

All  other 

YEARS. 

Bleached  and  nn-         Printed,  painted,  and 
bleached.                             colored. 

WARPS,  OR   WARP 
YAR.NS. 

manufac- 
tures. 

Square 
yards. 

vi-.      fzf. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Value. 

Total 

591,972,247 

829,300,792 

852,709,603 

$5,422,605 

$1,881,685 

$2,657,562 

7,788,514 
10,680,216 
8,869,482 
7,239,759 
12,809,516 

8,348,034 
9,316,153 
10, 9%,  230 
8,362,017 
7,862,326 

U6, 486, 231 

2,873.383 
3, 774, 992 
3,237,513 
1,991,666 
3,676,-151 

2,565,004 
2,841,215 
2,839,517 
2, 784, 984 
2,716,037 

21,065,018 

4,366,407 
5, 856,  763 
4,899,499 
4.609.236 
7,709,830 

5,056,725 
5,316.546 
6,133,844 
4,404,078 
4,356,675 

75,274,878 

397,586 
866, 618 
629,211 
523, 821 
545,915 

404,870 
439,  773 
640,360 
586,997 
387,464 

10,268,156 

151,138 
181,843 
103,259 
115, 036 

1822 

1 

1824 

1825 

201,  549 

175, 143 
263,772 
344,040 
173, 120 
172,785 

4,324,967 

375, 771 

1 

146, 292 

1827 

454,817 

1 

1,038,439 

1829 

1 

412,838 

1830 

1     

229,375 

Total 

j 

5,553,212 

. 

1831 

16,090,224 
10,399,653 
7,660,449 
10, 145, 181 
15,367,585 

17,876,087 
11,150,841 

6,599,330 
14,692,397 

6,504,484 

136,8CM,969 

4,399,251 
2,379,301 
1,218,513 
1,793,819 
2.747,514 

2,795,135 
1,647,388 
1,007,191 
2,158,703 
918,203 

16,674,286 

10,046,500 
6,355,475 
5,181,647 
6,688,823 

10,610,722 

12,192,980 
7,087,270 
4,217,551 
9,000,216 
3,893,694 

88,005,850 

887,957 
1,035,513 
623,369 
749,356 
906,369 

1,358,608 
1,267,267 

767,856 
1,879,783 

792,078 

11,503,447 

393,414 
316,122 
343,059 
379,793 
544,473 

55.5,290 
401,603 
222,114 
779,  OM 
387,095 

363,102 

1832 

313,242 

1833 

I 



293,861 

533,390 

1835 

658,507 

1 
1 

974,074 

1837 

744,313 

1838 

3*4,618 

1839 

874, 691 

513,414 

Total 

$3,612,457 

6,014,843 

10,994,086 

1841 

11,757,036 

9,578,515 

2,958,796 

13,641,478 

13,863,282 

13,530,625 
15,021,550 
19, 138, 141 
16,540,200 
20, 775, 346 

1,573,722 
1,285,947 
393, 105 
1,670,769 
1,823,451 

1,597,120 
2,630,979 
2,487,256 
1,438,635 
1,773,302 

7,434,727 
6,168,544 
1,739,318 
8,894,219 
8, 572, 516 

8,75.5,392 
10, 023. 418 
12,490,.W1 
10, 286, 894 
13,640,291 

980,639 
1,027,621 

307,243 
1,121,460 
1,326,631 

1,308,202 
1,173,824 
1,383,871 
1,315,783 
1,558,173 

863,130 
457,917 
26,227 
637,000 
565, 769 

656,571 
511,136 
727,422 

770, 509 
799,156 

904,818 

638,486 

1843 

492,903 

1,318,024 

1845 

1,574,885 

1,213,340 

1847 

682, 193 

1,387,218 

1,552,586 

672,653 

1 

661,873 

1849 

1 

1, 175, 793 

1S50.... 

i 

2,331,771 

I  Annual  Reports  on  Ctommeri-e  and  Navigation.  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


22  MANUFACTITRES. 

Table  1.— ANNUAL  IMPORTS  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  COTTON,  1821  TO  1900,  INCLUSIVE'— Continued. 


Total. 

1851 .... 
1852.... 
1853.... 
18.W.... 
1855.... 

1856.... 
1857.... 
1858.... 
1859.... 
1860  .... 


Total. 

1861  . . . . 

1862  . . . . 

1863  . . . . 

1864  . . . . 

1865  . . . . 

1866.... 
1867.... 

1868  . . . . 

1869  . . . . 

1870  . . . . 


S265, 744, 157 


Total 
value. 


22,921,098 
20,224,552 
28,573.070 
34,, SOS,  055 
18,524,167 

27,109,018 
29,815,480 
18,584,810 
26, 973,  381 
38,215,531 


186, 119, 390 


24, 985, 389 
8, 907, 305 
14,121,589 
14,341,501 
7, 558, 932 

29, 519, 228 
26, 164, 007 
16,660,074 
20,481,312 
23, 380, 053 


Bleached   and 
bleached. 


Square 
yards. 


864,692,197 


160,189,415 


13, 343, 169 

15,911,460 

12, 039, 629 

7, 400, 680 

55, 127, 685 


26, 860, 638 
29, 506, 151 


Value. 


1,499,044 

2, 477, 486 
2, 718, 846 
2,191,217 
12,563,522 

19, 110, 752 

21,441,082 

741,077 

784,964 

1,164,207 


29,195,616 


Printed,  painted,  and 
colored. 


Square 
yards. 


S112,936,494 


Total.  266,905,606    211,443,055 


1871... 

1872  . . . 

1873  . . . 

1874  . . . 
1875... 

1876  . . . 

1877  . . . 
1878 . . . 

1879  . . . 

1880  . . . 


Total. 

1881.... 

1882  . . . . 

1883  . . . , 

1884  . . . . 
1885.... 

1886... 
1887  ... 
1888 ... 

1889  ... 

1890  . . . 


Total 

1891 ... 

1892  . . . 

1893  ... 
1894... 
1895 . . . 


29, 876,  G40 
a5, 307, 447 
35,201,324 
28,193,869 
27, 738, 401 

22, 725, 598 
18, 923, 614 
19,081,037 
19, 928, 310 
29, 929, 366 


302,987,592 


36,938,026 
I  41,700.373 
31,1.52.510 
26,361,866 
23, 418, 257 

15, 007, 450 
11,048,698 
9, 676,  594 
6, 673, 088 
9,466,163 


47, 307, 813 


31,219,329 
34,351,292 
36, 853, 689 
29,074,626 
27,197,241 

29,709,266 
28, 940, 353 
28,917,799 
26,805,942 
29,918,055 


314,624,770 


29,712,624 
28, 323, 841 
33, 560, 293 
22, 346, 547 
33, 196, 625 


1896  ....  I  32, 437, 504 

1897  ....  I  34, 429, 363 

1898  ....  I  27, 267, 300 

1899  ....'  32,054,434 
1900.... I  41,296,239 


11,236,712 

13, 798, 147 

9,368,287 

1,687,613 

856,213 

2,176,606 
3,021,6% 
1,077,070 
2,577,230 
1,508,239 


20,444,335 


1,802,397 
1,572,224 
3, 225, 767 
1.152,798 
1,514,421 

2,136,6.57 
3,177,241 
1,520,108 
1,250,932 
3,061,790 


705,156 
1, 140,  969 
1,527,455 
1,424,775 
1,059,215 

7,808,027 
5,276,551 
2,795,079 
3, 533, 132 
3,  925, 266 


26,001,955 


4,883,622 
5, 316, 877 
3, 865,  .5.58 
3,093,933 
2, 873, 222 

1,845,6.53 
1,237,312 
1,076,142 
789, 359 
1,020,277 


5,015,870 


1,253,428 

1,503,127 

1,039,752 

174, 323 

103,  200 

225, 103 
301,636 
82,613 
203, 100 
129, 588 


1,831,419 


170,423 
140, 001 
261,202 
9.5,565 
125, 816 

179, 364 
273, 654 
120,  767 
107,023 
357,604 


152,889,316 


15,651,728 
17,007,719 
9, 689, 441 
10,278,826 

48, 762, 557 


21,480,786 
30,027,259 


Value  of      Value  of 


Valuu 


cIothiUK, 
I     ready. 
I  madf,  (ind 
lotherwejir- 
ingapparel, 
notinclud- 
iugknit 
good.s. 


eniliroicjer- 
ies,  lures, 

insertings, 

trimmings, 
and  lace 
curtains, 

cords,  and 
gimps. 


14,449,421 
11,553,306 
14,623,268 
17,423,249 


12,391,713 
16,561,533 
25,934,004 


42, 920, 114 


14,947,744 
1,573,583 
1,921,835 
1,737,001 
1,452,930 

6,944,712 
5,062,505 
2,31.5,849 
2,960,918 
4,003,037 


819,794,631 


189,363,275  25,861,170 


28, 975, 876 
36,  .578, 465 
33, 355, 661 
23, 3S0, 235 
18,399,891 

1.5,501,344 
10, 299.  915 
8,335,123 
5, 195, 126 
9,341,639 


7, 128, 

6,687, 

7, 163, 

119,504, 

'24,274, 


129,551,6 
124, 928,' 
1  26, 483, 1 


,543 
,404 
,126 
,959 
126,251,402 


=  412,063,936 


131,055,214 
132,407,238 
142,546,157 
127,172,415 
145,342,525 

141,161,822 
1  35, 937, 975 
143,2.5s,  291 
151,1%,  236 
1 61, 986, 063 


3,634,315 

4, 975, 624 
5,028,256 
3,  l.'^S,  494 
2, 593, 936 

2, 074, 944 
1,415,112 
1,086,426 
707, 064 
1,179,999 


24,741,393 


928, 

924, 

1,120, 

2, 187, 

2, 653, 

3, 467, 
3,033, 
3,356, 
3,6%, 
3, 373, 


2  4,237,221 
=  4,505,666 
=  5,536,275 
=  3,385,241 
=  6,428,243 

=  4,921,060 
=4,404,025 
=  5,313,683 
=6,649,014 
=8,156,301 


83, 349, 446 


676, 101 
1, 445, 459 
1,227,886 


792, 402 
408, 810 

384,  770 
436, 3.56 
392, 307 
383, 612 
336,656 


17,190,458 


1,201,278 
1,261,818 
1,682,049 
1,6.58,778 
2, 766, 877 

2, 683, 315 
2  627,222 
i!  0.5oi  554 
1,027,306 
1,231,231 


$27,728,527 


2,715,425 
2,289,863 
4,056,621 
6,088,667 
895, 555 

1,385,024 

1,343,578 

660,649 

646,870 

712, 379 


7,337,253 


341,880 
402, 578 
693, 672 
741,310 
381,851 

1,467,392 
1,767,243 
1,511,327 


74,346,572 


10,012, 
10, 123, 

11,632, 
10,467, 
11,071, 
9,591, 
11,447, 


Value  of 
knit  goods' 
made  on  . 
knitting  j 
inachinesi 
or  knit  by ! 
hand. 


THREAD  {NOT   OK 

SPOOLS),  YARNS, 

WARPS,  OR  WARP 

YARNS. 


JEA.S'S,  IIF.NIHS,  AND 
DRILLINGS. 


Pounds. 


Value. 


$12, 486, 172 


3,822,761 


2, 025, 767 

5, 020, 167 
5, 620, 776 
3, 4.57,  .525 
4,007,276 
4,734,475 


51,237,968 


.5,085,993 
5,451,523 

5,449,208 
4,621,259 
4. 948, 024 

4,682  871 
3, 804, 520 
4,682,246 
4,997,335 
7,514,989 


123, 266, 407 


54,733,325    20,891,442 


10,  .5,89. 490 
11,248,289 
12,741,798 
8, 021, 769 
11,686,016 

10,878, 9.M 
12, 573, 207 
11,768,704 
14,550,016 
19, 208, 165 


391 
601 

560, 
994, 
307, 

8.58, 
910, 
373. 
389, 
149, 


980,839 

887,840 

1,095,518 

1,076,987 

997,673 

1,276,760 

1,401,153 

1,080,671 

1,913,417 

1,775,314 

Square 
yards. 


Value. 


All  other 
manufac- 
tures. 


Value 


828, 106, 136 


10,741,743 


1,380,119 
1,116,782 
1,605,781 
1,279,424 
608,292 

1,4.59,392 
1,617,149 
1,674,804 


28,828,725 


86,996,084 


2,569,706 
13, 473, 049 


11,184,870 


634 
449  I 
063 
341  i 
239 

072 
104 
780 
325 
030 


6,303,612 


1, 895, 
909, 

1,147, 
1,894, 
1,886, 
1,744, 
1,706, 


6, 947, 359 
5,838,611 


29,%3,"83 


5, 386, 146 
6, 483, 461 
3,685,477 
2,220,653 
1,955,825 

1,299,627 

641,611 

825,328 

1,043,268 

6,422,387 


24,895,570 


7,608,861 
12,797,527 
4,489,182 


i 


6, 738, 775 
5, 833, 652 
6, 392, 175 
4,360,655 
6, 535, 179 

6,190,672 
6, 5%,  703 
4, 034, 483 
4,33.5,269 
4, 716, 762 


1,686,039 
1,426,585 
1,734,418 
747,038 
1,784,855 

2,431,856 
1, 664, 217 
1,817,970 
2,325,974 
5,272,491 


1,339,777 
662,202 

669,0%  i 
919,994  ( 
957, 705 
860,703 
904, 135 


466,836 

2,146,377 

1,717,941 

856,374 

991.051 

818,506 


1,1.58,465 
863, 717 
3,076,186 
6,009,271 
2,011,822 

2,819,634 
2,419,380 
1,  .589, 832 
3,838,561 
4,319,268 


56,890,387 


3,787,729 
4,673,393 
8,372,846 
9, 188, 991 
1,564,012 

3,997,060 
3,666,383 
2, 702, 239 
8,988,935 
9, 898, 769 


4,330,640      159,483,873 


737,251  I 
878,580 
536,393  I 
327, 138  ! 
268,739 

182,257 
86, 919 
104,633 
141,066 
1,067,664 


4,384.210 


1,332,326 

2,257,594 

794,290 


15,53.5.4,59 
18,684,843 
20,321,909 
16, 9%,  045 
17,054,480 

13, 939, 873 
12, 379, 751 
12.131.590 
13, 293. 4.86 
19, 146, 437 


113,625,986 


867,645 
664,952 
762, 653 
326, 224 
658,702 

872, 067 
647,388 
687, 999 
849, 819 
2,098,958 


19,313,898 

22,164,520 

25, 339, 010 

7,574,345 

6,949,236 

6, 472, 389 
6,871,244 
6, 682, 9.55 
5,681,065 
6,677,324 


66,640,025 


6,917,792 
4, 669,  433 
6,184,141 
4, 498, 315 
5, 995, 792 

6,712,072 
8, 307, 164 
4,291,110 
4, 53.5, 988 
5,528,218 


■Includes  "  bleached." 


Table  1  show.s  that  from  1821  to  1855  tha  value  of  plain, 
uncolored  cotton  cloth  imported  exceeded  livl.oOO.OOO 
in  a  single  year  only,  the  year  1S31;  and  that  the  an- 
niKil  average  value  of  .such  goods  imported  declined 
from  ^2.930,079  in  the  decade  1.S21-1830.  to  S2.106..502 
in  the  decade  1831-1840,  and  to  ^l,6H7,-±29  in  the  decade 
1841-1850.  Except  during  the  three  years  1855-1857 
the  importation  was  not  materially  greater  during  the 
ensuing  decade;  and  notwithstiindiiig  the  great  advance 


of  the  country  in  ])opulation  and  vrealth.  the  annual 
average  value  of  the  same  clas.s  of  g-oods  in  the  years 
1891-1900  was  hut  §183,142.  This  cla.s^  consists  of 
fabrics  which  are  reported  by  the  census  as  plain  cloths 
for  printing  and  converting,  sheetings  and  shirtings, 
duck,  etc..  the  value  of  the  domestic  production  of  which 
is  SO  large  that  the  foreign  importation  is  undoubtedly 
less  than  2  per  cent  of  it. 
The  same  table  shows  that  the  averaire  value  of  the 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


23 


imported  cloths  per  square  yard  is  much  above  the  value 
of  the  domestic  iirticlc.  This  is  l)ociius(>  the  importa- 
tion is  confined  almost  exclusively  to  tine  goods,  which 
American  manufacturers  have  onl\'  lately  begun  to  pro- 
duce. Another  class  of  im])ortations  which  is  larger 
than  that  already  mentioned  is  colored  goods.  Some 
purchasers  have  so  rooted  a  preference  for  foreign 
ginghams  and  calicoes  that  they  will  not  buy  the  ,\mer- 
ican  product.  The  imports  of  such  goods  have  lately 
shown  a  tendency  to  increase,  but  the  value  of  colored 
cloth  imported  in  1900,  when  the  amount  was  the  largest 
in  recent  3'ears,  was  little  more  than  twice  the  annual 
average  from  1860  to  1883.     The  most  important  im- 


portations of  cotton  aie  the  fancy  articles,  cla.ssed  as 
embroideries,  laces,  trimmings,  cords,  gimps,  etc., 
which,  \  ith  knit  goods,  constitute  more  than  one-half 
of  the  total  value  of  all  articles  of  cotton  imported.  In 
shoi-t,  the  trade  in  foreign  maruifactures  of  cotton  is 
almost  iiitogelher  in  special  classes  of  goods  which  are 
not  made  extensively  in  the  United  States,  or  in  articles 
whic'h  the  customs  and  habits  of  buyers  lead  them  to  pre- 
fer, regardless  of  considerations  of  cost  or  superiority. 
Table  2  shows  the  annual  exports  of  cotton  manufac- 
tures from  1826  to  1900,  inclusive,  as  compiliid  from 
the  annual  reports  on  Commerce  and  Navigation  pub- 
lished V)v  the  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


Table  S.— ANNUAL  EXPORTS  OF  MANUFACTURES  OF  COTTON,  1826  TO  1900,  INCLUSIVE.' 


Total  value. 

CLOTHS. 

All  other 
manu- 
factures. 
Value 

YEARS. 

Uncolored. 

Colored. 

Wearing  ap- 
parel. 
Value. 

1 

, 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Total 

$5, 885, 411 

84,637,697 

$396,840 

$850,974 

1826 

1,138,125 
1, 159,  414 
1,010,232 
1,259,457 
1,318,183 

25,203,681 

830,632 

%5,751 
892,777 
983,248 
965,289 

20, 626, 289 

68,884 
46,120 
76,012 
145,024 
61,800 

3,079,661 

238  709 

1827 

148,  .MS 
41,443 
131  185 

1828 

1829 

1830 

291  094 

Total                ...          

1,497,731 

1831 

1,126,313 
1,229,574 
2,532,517 
2,085,994 
2,858,681 

2,255,734 
2,831,473 
3,758,755 
2, 975, 033 
3,549,607 

39,557,256 

950,329 
1,053,232 
1,804,170 
1,7.57,197 
2,355,602 

1,9.')1,432 
2,044,930 
3,256,147 
2,526,793 
2,926,457 

31,797,461 

96,931 
104, 870 
421,721 
188, 619 
397,412 

256,625 
549,801 
262, 044 
412,  661 
398,977 

4,181,847 

79,053 

71  472 

1832 

1833.. 

306  626 

1834 

140  178 

1835 . . 

105,  667 
47  677 

1836 

1837 

236, 742 

1838 

260  564 

1839 

35,579 
224  173 

IMO 

Total 

3, 577, 948 

1841 

3, 122, 546 
2, 970, 690 
3,223,550 
2,898,780 
4,327,928 

3, 545, 481 
4,082,523 
5,718,205 
4,933,129 
4,734,424 

73,059,955 

2,324,839 
2,297,964 

2,  .575, 049 
2, 298, 800 
3,517,142 

2,827,320 
3,354,696 
4,868,924 

3,  958, 320 
3,774,407 

37,416,124 

450,503 
385,040 
358,415 
385,403 
616,243 

380,549 
281,320 
3.51,169 
466, 574 
606,631 

18,268,343 

347,204 

1842 

287, 686 

1843 

290,086 

1844 

214, 577 

1845 

294,543 

1846 

337, 612 

1847 

446, 507 

1848 

498, 112 

1849 

508,235 

1S50 

353,386 

Total '. 

17, 376, 488 

1851 

7,241,205 
7, 672, 151 
8,768,894 
6, 636, 616 
5,857,181 

6, 967, 309 
6, 115, 177 
.5,651,504 
8,316,222 
10, 934, 796 

39,839,343 

5,571,576 
6,139,391 
6, 926,  485 
3,927,148 
2,  793, 910 

4,290,361 
3,463,230 
1,598,136 
1,302,381 
1,403,506 

6,712,606 

1,006,561 
926,404 
1,086,167 
1,136,493 
2,613,6.55 

1, 966, 845 
1,785,685 
2, 069, 194 
2,320,890 
3, 366, 449 

6,487,918 

663,068 

1852 ... 

606,366 

1853 

756,242 

1854 

471,875 

1855 

449, 616 

1856 

710, 103 

1857 

866,262 

1858 

1,9M,174 

1859 

4, 692, 951 

1860 

0,174,811 

Total 

28,477,444 

12,912,363 

86,638,819 

1861 

7,957,038 
2,946,464 
2,906,411 
1,456,901 
3,651,561 

1, 780, 175 
4,608,235 
4,871,054 
5,874,222 
3,787,282 

1,076,959 

608,004 

2W,  751 

56,639 

58,469 

718,006 
1,142,451 
1,551,339 

2,215,032 
687,500 
630,558 
401,411 
857,573 

88,742 
139, 964 
531,669 

4,665,047 

1862 

1,850,960 

2,021,102 

1864 

177,066 
122,372 

3,041,715 
6,020,731 
10,839,177 

1,569,235 
1,218,724 

406,  988 

674,426 

2,979,275 

998,851 

2,735,519 

1866 .   ... 

973,427 

1867 

3, 325, 820 

1868 

2,788,046 

1869 

6,874,222 

1870 

8,276,384 

1,345,988 

6, 064, 715 

1,036,469 

1,405,825 

1  Annual  Reports  on  Commerce  and  Navigation,  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


24  MANUFACTURES. 

Tamlk  ;:.— annual  exports  OK  MANUFACTURES  OF  (.'oTTdX.   I.sl'H  To  liioo,   INCIA'SIVK'— ((.ntinued. 


Total  value. 

CLOTHS. 

Weariufi:  ap- 
parel. 
Value. 

All  other 
manu- 
factures. 

YEARS. 

I'ncolored. 

Colored. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

ToIhI                

$66,210,965 

445,869,911 

839,672,104 

190,462,398 

816,454,141 

810,084,320 

3,558,136 
2,304,330 
2,947,928 
3,095,840 
4,071,882 

7, 722,  97S 
10,23.5,843 
11,438,660 
10, 853, 950 

9,981,418 

127,491,518 

14,832,931 
8,859,191 
10, 187, 145 
13, 247, 142 
21,224,020 

69,319,267 
76, 769, 147 
88,528,192 
81,081,319 
68,821,557 

1,062,022,146 

1,776,694 
1,317,719 
1,655,116 
1,681,209 
2,313,270 

5,314,738 
6, 437, 223 
7,053,463 
0,288,131 
5,834,541 

77,387,248 

5,083,923 
2,844,888 
3,58.5,629 
4, 625, 180 
7,593.723 

16,488,214 
29, 601, 304 
37, 765, 313 
45,116,058 
37,768,160 

456,655,097 

724,841 

4.58,998 
596,912 
668,781 
939,061 

1,455,462 
2,484,131 
2,959,910 
3,209,285 
2,956,760 

31,215,625 

1,056,601 

1872                                                                                                        

627,  613 

1873                     

695,  .500 

1874                                                                                     

745,850 

1875           .   .              

819, 551 

1876 

952, 778 

1877                                                '                                

1,314,489 

1878 

1,425,287 

1879                                                                                 

1,366,534 

1880  . .              

1,190,117 

Tnliil                                                              ..         

84,265,408 

14,623,237 

1881                                                                                .   .          

14,105,348 
13, 828, 377 
13,721,605 
11,885,211 
11,836,591 

13,959,934 
14,929,342 
13,013,189 
10, 212, 644 
9,999,277 

169,240,362 

80,399,154 
114,994,402 
103,631,459 

99,760,450 
114,806,595 

142,547,980 
136,809,074 
115,766,679 
77,596,862 
75,716,490 

1,784,369,304 

6,624,374 
9,361,713 
8,629,723 
7,503,361 
7,919,070 

9,231,170 
9,2.56,486 
7,  812, 947 
6,  .577, 401 
6, 480, 403 

97,111,912 

68,184,293 
29,525,672 
34,066,292 
35,441,2% 
32,738,123 

51,293,373 
67,793,013 
54, 446, 936 
40, 856, 329 
42,309,770 

661,332,474 

4,983,312 
2,326,319 
2,648,278 
2,579,866 
2,230,567 

3,149,091 
4,003,772 
3,522,612 
2,885,373 
2,886,435 

37, 566, 275 

533,961 
605,398 
770,460 
349,270 
267,775 

435,536 
442, 757 
317,652 
301,803 
240,7% 

7,558,516 

1, 963, 701 

1882 

1,514,947 

1883 

1,673,144 

1884 

1,452,714 

1885                                                                                                  .          .  . 

1,418,579 

1886                                                                                            .... 

1,144,137 

1.226,327 

1888                                                                                     .              ... 

1,3.59,978 

1889 

1,448,067 

1890                                                                                                  .   . 

1.391,643 

27,003,649 

1891.   .   . 

13,604,8.57 
13,226,277 
11,809,355 
14,340,886 
13,789,810 

16,837,396 
21,037,678 
17, 024, 092 
23, 566, 914 
24, 003, 087 

13.5,529,590 
142,938,871 
100, 776, 006 
124,349,278 
125, 790, 318 

166, 391, 639 
230,123,603 
191,092,442 
303,063,083 
264, 314, 474 

9,  277, 112 
8,673,663 
6, 306, 022 
7,639,8.51 
7,034,678 

9,539,199 
12,511,389 

9,151,936 
13,748,619 
13,229,443 

39,016,682 
40, 815, 450 
43,016,108 
61,538,458 
58, 467, 743 

58,747,729 
83,409.441 
79,41.5,376 
108, 940, 972 
87,880,515 

2,590,934 
2,484,360 
2,802,462 
3,854,935 
3,444,639 

3,419,158 
4,770,231 
4,138,887 
5,221,278 
4,839,491 

278, 169 
433, 102 
452,356 
476,617 
618,730 

708,099 

878,804 

934,192 

1,275,839 

1,602,608 

1,458,642 

1892 

1,636,152 

1893 

2,248,615 

2,369,483 

1895 

2,791,863 

1896 

3,170,940 

1897 

2,877,254 

1898 

1899 

1900 

2,799,077 
3,321,178 
4,331,545 

1  Annual  Reports  on  Commerce  and  Navigation,  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


Table  2  shows  that  the  exportation  of  cotton  good.s 
has  been  a  feature  of  the  foreign  trade  for  more  than 
seventy-tive  years.  It  i.s  impossible  to  go  further  back 
than  1826,  because  the  separate  values  of  articles  ex- 
ported were  then  reported  for  the  first  time.  The  trade 
was  established  soon  after  the  foundation  of  the  modern 
factory  industry,  at  Waltham,  Mass.  It  became  promi- 
nent when  that  first  great  success  was  followed  up  in 
the  development  of  Lowell.  As  early  as  1851  the  annual 
value  of  cotton  goods  exported  exceeded  87,000.000;  and 
it  is  safe  to  say  that  this  amount  represented  more  than 
one-half  of  the  total  value  of  American  manufactures  of 
all  kinds  sent  to  foreign  countries  in  that  year.  The 
year  1S60  marked  the  temporary  culmination  of  this 
trade,  when  the  declared  value  of  cotton  manufactures 
exported  was  but  a  trifle  less  than  $11,000,000.  The 
Civil  War  ensued  and  not  only  this  liranch  of  the  for- 
eign trade,  but  the  cotton  trade  itself  also,  was  well- 
nigh  annihilated  for  several  years. 

When  the  growth  of  the  cotton  crop  was  resumed,  the 
United  States  had  lost  its  foreign  markets,  had  given  up 
its  shipping  formerly  engaged  in  the  foreign  trade,  and 
had  closed  most  of  the  mercantile  houses  in  other  lands 
which  had  previoush'  given  its  merchants  access  to  the 
markets  of  Asia,  Africa,  and  South  America.  More- 
over, the  extraordinary  increase  of  population   and  of 


wealth  at  home,  and  the  great  demand  for  cloth  to 
replenish  family  supplies  exhausted  during  the  war 
period,  gave  manufacturers  ample  held  for  their  enter- 
prise in  supplying  the  home  consumption.  In  the.se 
circumstances  scarcely  any  attempt  was  made  to  recover 
foreign  markets.  The  exportation  declined  to  a  value 
of  less  than  $1,500,000  in  1864.  and  from  1866  to  1876, 
eleven  years,  the  annual  average  was  liarely  $4.000,000. 
From  1877  onward  there  was  a  moderate  revival  of  the 
trade.  In  only  five  years  in  the  last  quarter  of  a  cen- 
tury, 1877  to  1902.  has  the  value  fallen  l)elow  the  high 
mark  of  1860,  and  on  the  whole  there  has  been  steady 
progress.  The  following  table  shows  the  value  of 
exports  of  cotton  goods  in  five-year  periods: 


PERIOD. 

Total 
exports. 

Yearly 
average. 

1877-1881 

856,615,219 
65,231,718 
61,759,309 
70,003,724 

105,904,189 

811,323,044 

1882-1886            

13. 016, 324 

1887  1891                                                                 

12,251.862 

1892-1896 

14,000,745 

1897  1901                               

21,180,838 

The  exportation  during  the  census  years  of  the  last 
half  century  has  been  as  follows:  In  1860,  $10,934,796; 
in  1870,  $3,787,282;  in  1880,  $9,981,418;  in  1890, 
$9,999,277;  and  in  11  mO,  $24,003,087.  These  figures  do 
not  show  the  actual  progress  so  well  as  the  preceding 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


25 


table,  ina.smufh  a.s  tho  cxportiition  in  1S80  and  again  in 
liSltO  was  l(3ss  than  durintj  tlie  years  jjreceding  or  fol- 
lowing those  dates.  The  e.xportation  in  ]9(»()  was  the 
largest  on  record  in  declared  value,  although  in  the  <iuaii- 
tity  of  goods  it  was  not  so  great  as  in  IS'.iit. 

It  was  not  possii)le,  of  t'ourse,  to  account  for  all  the 
exports  declared  upon  the  clearing  of  vessels  for  for- 
eign ports,  since  a  considerate  part  of  the  domestics 
sold  abroad  are  made  for  the  home  market  and  are  pur- 
chased for  sale  in  other  countries  after  they  have  passed 
wholly  out  of  the  control  and  the  knowledge  of  manu- 
facturers; but  so  far  as  the  managers  of  mills  are  able 
to  trace  their  products,  they  furnished  goods  for  export 
during  the  year  1899-1900  to  the  value  of  $15,357,502. 
or  about  tive-eighths  of  the  value  of  cloth  exported 
during  the  fiscal  year.  Almost  00  per  cent  of  the  total 
value  represents  the  product  of  Southern  mills,  and 
nearl\-  37  per  cent  the  goods  of  New  England.  It  is  an 
interesting  fact  that  South  Carolina,  which  was  histor- 


ically and  politically,  during  the  A'ears  preceding  the 
Civil  War,  the  most  cons])icuous  champion  of  a  policy 
favorable  to  the  exportation  of  raw  cotton,  upon  which 
the  planters  mo.st  relied,  and  opposed  to  the  fostering 
of  mamifactures  of  cotton,  spun  in  its  own  mills  in 
1900  a  quantity  of  cotton  exceeding  the  half  of  its  own 
crop,  and  exported  close  upon  one-half  of  all  the  cotton 
cloth  reported  to  the  census  as  having  been  dispatched 
to  foreign  countries.  The  exact  percentage  of  South 
Carolina  of  the  total  export  reported  was  45.5. 

Table  3  shows  the  annual  exports  of  foreign  manu- 
factures of  cotton  goods  fi'om  1S21  to  1900,  inclusive, 
as  compiled  from  the  annual  reports  on  Commerce  and 
Navigation  published  l)y  the  United  States  Treasury 
Department.  It  is  presented  only  for  the  purpose  of 
furnishing  the  means  of  ascertaining — by  subtracting 
the  amounts  and  values  from  the  corresponding  statis- 
tics in  Table  1 — the  actual  consumption  of  foreign  goods. 


Table  3.— ANNUAL  P:XPORTS  OF  FOREIGN  MANUFACTURES  OF  COTTON,  1821  To  1900,  INCLUSIVE.' 


Total 
value. 

CLOTHS. 

Value  of 
clothing 

ready-made 
and' other 
■wearing 

apparel.not 
including 

knit  goods. 

Value  of 
embroid- 

Value of 

THREADS 

(NOT     ON 

All  other 

YEARS. 

Bleached  and  un- 
bleached. 

Printed,  painted,  aud 
colored. 

eries,  laces, 

insortiiigs, 

trimmings, 

and  of 

lace  and 

window 

curtains. 

knit  goods 
made  on 
knitting 
machines 
or  knit 
by  hand. 

WARPS,   OR  WARP- 
YARNS. 

'drillings. 

manufac- 
tures. 

Square 
yards. 

i 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Value. 

$20,747,327 

$9,740,469 

$9,954,599 

8«7,591 

$288,994 

$315,674 

1821 

1,583,473 
1,682,010 
2,654,174 
2,.5lil,16S 
2, 401, 455 

2,226,090 
1,838,814 
2, 242, 739 
1,564,940 
1,989,464 

23,581,508 

1,194,910 
1,083,2.53 
1,386,024 
929,272 
1  148  610 

379,701 

572,626 

1,206,502 

1,544,231 

1,105,252 

1,032,381 
964,904 

1,402,103 
751,871 
996,028 

15,009,337 

2,330 
17,314 

36, 881 
79, 191 
46,311 

74,  462 
46,788 
44,988 
42.  222 
57, 104 

342,713 

6,532 
8,817 
24,767 
8,474 
9,412 

34,862 
63,413 
46, 736 
27,656 
58,325 

664,813 

1 

1822 



1823 

1S24 

1825 

94,870 

1826 

1,018,702 
726,636 
730,897 
699,468 
823,697 

6,916,171 

65,683 
38,073 
18, 015 

1827 

1828 

1829 

43,723 
55, 310 

1830  .. 

Total 

648,474 

1831 

3,228,868 
2,322,087 
2,504,618 
2,866,864 
3,697,837 

2,765,676 
2,683,418 
1,153,606 
1,255,265 
1, 103, 489 

6,381,153 

1,211,104 
968, 301 
822,911 
S93, 808 

1,248,592 

683,327 
377,465 
271, 692 
250,173 
189, 098 

1,683,311 

1,746,442 
1,094,412 
1,352,286 
1,818,578 
2, 308, 636 

1,976,166 

2, 103, 627 

826,111 

946,636 

838,563 

3,892,170 

57,015 

62, 775 
45,937 
43, 649 
33,994 

16,689 
41,360 
14, 746 
12,  916 

70,254 
29,026 
134,229 
62, 403 
87,089 

78, 176 

144,043 
167,573 
149  155 

1832 

1833 

1834 

48,716 

1835 

19,526 

12,328 
74.310 

1836  . 

1837 

( 

86,756 
29,768 

1838 

! 

11  189 

1839 

34,082 
53,030 

539,911 

12, 4.58 

1840 

13, 632 
107.048 

9,176 

Total 

S59.963 

198  760 

1841 

929,056 
836,892 
308,616 
404.048 
602,  .563 

673, 203 
481-.  l:!5 

131,632 
110,069 
33,998 
90,381 
162, 599 

367,047 
83.716 

487,466 
81,690 
44,724 

4,315,219 

574,503 
502,072 
251,808 
278,431 
281,775 

290,282 
372, 877 
640, 919 
424,941 
274,669 

2,939,349 

15,943 
4,429 

4,881 
4,325 
2,455 

1,780 
19, 595 

198,996 
208,193 

i 

7  982 

1842 

1 

12,129 

1843 

15,028 
24,958 
10,922 

8,482 
3,808 

40,783 
7,718 

21,023 

327,205 

2,901 

6,560 

44,802 

15, 612 
6,140 
17.966 
39, 182 
45,506 

2, 386, 844 

1844 

i 

1845 

1 

1846 

1847  . 



1 

1848              1  217  '221 

9,836 
19,286 
30,833 

20,272 
10, 426 
22.  943 

.583,241 
439,588 

10,543,191 

18,50 

2X4,641         290,033 

1851 

691,784 
1,018,286 
1,2.59,313 
1,515,684 
2,083,864 

1,607,340 
575,063 
396, 204 
331,072 

1,064,692 

132,020 

401,215 

362. 052 

502,387 

1,336,634 

1  146, 178 

440,441 

457,620 
622, 540 
684,483 

31,928  1        2.5,923 
30,389  1         22,287 
11,104           20.396 

20,646 
49,165 
69,607 
40,796 
38,460 

40,926 

1862 

' 

67  619 

1853 

1                     ' 

173, 614 

18.54.. 

64,363 
104,492 

32,333 
6,754 
5,216 
2,131 

52,420 
127, 191 

17,631 
11,819 
6,813 
2,638 
3,016 

1 

181,146 
477,077 

365,485 
228,482 
208, 139 
166,379 
497,977 

1855 

18.56 

46,813 
22.610 
10,01:; 
1,5S3 
27,618 

1857 

305,392 
40,024 
25, 668 
64,649 

1                     1 

1858 

126,000 
142, 673 
465,692 

1 

1859 

j 

1860.... 

5,841 

"""  ["[[["[[[i 

'.\imual  Reports  on  Commerce  and  Navigation,  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


26 


MANUFACTURES. 


T.MiLE  3. —ANNUAL  EXPORTS  OF  FOREIGN  MANUFACTURES  OF  COTTON,  1821  TO  1900,  INCLUSIVE'— Continued. 


Total 
value. 

CLOTHS. 

Value  of  ' 

clothing 

ready-made 

and  other 

wearing 

apparel, not 

including 

knit  goods. 

Value  of 
embroid- 
eries, lacus, 
in.serting.s, 
trimniings, 
and  of 
lace  and 
window 
curtains. 

Value  of 
knitKoods 
niKik'  on 
knitting 
muchines 
or  knit 
by  hand. 

THREADS     (SOT    ON 

SPOOLS),    YARNS, 

WAKPS,   OR   WARP- 

YAKN8. 

JEAN.1,  DENIMS,  AND 
DRILLINGS. 

All  other 

YEARS. 

Bleached  and  un- 
bleached. 

Printed,  painted,  and 
colored. 

manufac- 
tures. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Value. 

85,710,385 

8,640,053 

$834,314 

10,932,705 

$1,428,134 

;i08,061 

S37,202 

$58,362 

$18,267 

788,805 

$131,762 

$3,094,283 

1861 

323, 897 
341,324 
714,3,58 
372, 428 
681,916 

434,672 
409,304 
949,411 
541,599 
941,476 

9,991,789 

32,301 

67,934 

3,100 
11,410 

983 

1,683 

1862  .... 

329,914 
714  358 

1863 

1864 

372,428 
681,916 

254,449 
208,445 
137  l"'^ 

1865 

1866 

395,018 

582,620 

2, 428, 075 

1,  790,  546 

3,443,794 

31,068,319 

60,323 
67,923 
227, 165 
155,668 
290, 934 

2,417,108 

259,011 

545,725 

3,7.50,009 

2, 293,  .584 

4,084,376 

47, 472, 719 

41,472 

80,  .560 

447,805 

297, 263 

493, 100 

5,012,219 

60,557 
19,324 
28,180 

11,872 
2,126 
8,694 

2,914 
1,283 

22,961 
9,854 

20,367 

185,302 

19,977 
158,817 
374, 516 

88,981 
146, 514 

3,369,768 

3,085 
28,124 
62,419 
11,102 
27,032 

.568,225 

1867     . . 

1,519 
15,065 

1868       k 

1869  .... 

1870 

110  043 

Total. 

1,808,933 

1871  .... 

1,703,029 
1,380,048 
1,4.56,946 
1,218,092 
997,187 

908,612 
699, 450 
551,  923 
386, 870 
689,632 

2,851,339 

6,429,725 
4,200,048 
4,35.5,9,51 
3,50.5,041 
2,801,844 

2,286,609 
2, 634,  940 
1,848,025 
773. 167 
2,232,369 

4,945,717 

493,353 
330,  .543 
3,51,041 

278, 897 
223,  343 

191,526 
208,  899 
129, 607 
57,803 
152, 096 

339, 128 

8, 9.54, 387 
6,666,891 
6,  .549, 228 
4,884,367 
4, 619, 899 

4, 400, 036 
3,328,721 
2, 859,  015 
1,617,072 
3, 593, 103 

7,922,925 

9%,  571 
722,742 
727,919 
549, 164 
501,265 

466,471 
32.5,639 
260,345 
147, 449 
324,  654 

726,036 

22,078 
14,163 

20, 878 
21,279 
26, 913 

24,. 520 
11,388 
17,  987 
9,4.59 
16,637 

73,664 

262,965 
542,099 
MO,  107 
44.5,571 
429, 931 

426,5.52 

135,  874 
118,209 
203,672 
264, 788 

907,444 

45,377 
89,658 
99,008 
81,  916 
72,227 

69,505 
22,132 
19,443 
28,016 
40,943 

139,214 

145,650 
222,942 

1872 

1873.... 

1874 

286,836 
173,439 

166,590 
131,392 

1875  .... 

1876  .... 

1877  .... 

1878  .... 

1879 

144  143 

1880  .... 

156,302 
1,425,415 

Total. 

34, 408 

108, 294 

15,957 

5,180 

1881.... 

679, 075 
498,312 
270, 144 
167,210 
293, 381 

435, 735 
160,718 
128, 343 
83,  779 
134,042 

2,100,172 

2,4.51,652 

1,833,175 

462,  aS7 

27,437 

2,944 

493 
29,869 
65,880 
25, 326 
46,054 

161,919 

166,594 

128, 107 

33,200 

2,602 

206 

26 
1,  .564 
2,787 
1,746 
2,297 

9,283 

2,748,863 

1,479,381 

388,899 

479,973 

237,  326 

1,830,765 
236, 943 
141,199 
180,620 
198,956 

3, 9.80, 825 

247,  507 
134,  633 
37, 125 
35,052 
20, 718 

178,878 
24,469 
13,388 
12,508 
21, 768 

«342, 166 

14,707 

16,628 

5,376 

6,852 

10,103 

4,723 
3,956 
1,091 
4,679 
5,549 

103, 062 

341,680 
261,408 
304,356 

52,468 
43,979 
42,767 

197  799 

1882 .... 

174,965 

1883.... 

1884  .... 

3,430 
14,504 

1,245 

764 
1,981 
4,756 
7,728 

186,013 

7,496 
28,650 

18,341 
27, 939 
9,4.50 
8,013 
8,405 

297,  818 

5,014 
5,209 

2,135 

934 

2 

352 

2,311 

80,074 

2,356 
1,044 

598 
411 
1 
114 
656 

24,723 

109,422 
218,156 

231  924 

1885.... 

1886.... 

1887.... 

.: :;::;;::: 

101,625 
99,645 
51,964 
88,239 

1,143,107 

1888.... 

1889  ... . 

1890.... 

Total. 

1891.... 

129,032 
141,263 
161,429 
212, 380 
177,604 

291, 162 
235. 212 
290,036 
179, 351 
288,103 

7,0.52 

720 

10,  ,500 

18,395 

20, 965 

60, 144 
6,237 
1,,525 
18,  901 
17,490 

401 
40 

478 
1,384 
1,006 

2,986 

292 

107 

1,104 

1,425 

196,  473 
298, 965 
223,376 
324,  2.56 
242,899 

781,, 861 
313, 196 
1,012,910 
215,449 
371, 440 

18,800 
29,044 
21, 167 
32,892 
22,188 

68,  775 
28, 614 
78, 125 
19, 649 
32,912 

6,384 

7,708 

8,804 

21, 735 

22,968 

41,665 
29,992 
16, 654 
12,417 
17, 986 

6,897 
19,097 
65,083 
25,  746 
40,992 

51,608 
26,245 
28, 166 
14, 912 
29,072 

6,022 
9,244 
3,628 
11,516 
9,279 

19,  7.53 
17,610 
8,330 
7,324 
10,356 

4,557 

1,922 

89,206 
76,130 

1892  .... 

1893.... 

1,700 

26,161 

3,544 

6,670 
1,509 
3,140 
3,602 
29, 191 

464 

5,524 

954 

2,875 
590 
1,241 
1,244 
9,909 

72, 105 
113,583 
80,157 

113,600 
131,869 

1894  .... 

1895.... 

1696.... 

1897.... 

1898.... 

157  413 

1899.... 

1 

122, 701 

1900.... 

186,443 

^  Annual  Reports  on  Commerce  and  Navigation,  United  States  Treasury  Department. 


COTTON  MANUFACTIIKES. 


27 


THE  GENERAL  PROGRESS  OF  THE  INDUSTRY. 

Table  -t  pre.seiits  the  .sumniaiy  of  the  cotton   iiiaim-  lately  treated  at  the  Twelfth  Census,  and  i.-<  made  the 

facture  from  1840  to  1900,  inclu.sive.     The  figures  for  j  .subject  of  a  special   chapter  at  the  conclu.slon  of  the 

1900  do  not  include  th(>  manufacture  of  cotton  small  re])oi-t  on  cotton  manufactures, 
wares,  which   branch  of  the   industry   has   l)ee'n   sepa- 

T.A.BLE  4.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  COTTON  GOODS,  1840  TO  1900,  WITH  PER  CENTOF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 

PER 

CENT  OF  INCBEASE. 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1S70 

1860 

IS50 

1 
1H40 

1890 

to 
1900 

1880 

to 
1890 

1870 

to 
1880 

I860 

to 
1870 

1880 

to 
1860 

1840 

to 
1850 

Number  of  establishments . . 

973 

$460,842,772 

4,713 

$7,123,574 

297,929 
885, 126, 310 

134,3.54 
846,9'23,3i;5 

12.3, 709 
832,917,933 
39,866 
$5,28.5,012 
821,6.50,144 
$173,441,390 
$332,  806, 156 

19, 008, 3.52 

450,  682 

3,639,495 

1,814,002,512 

905 
$354,020,843 

=  2,709 
=  $3,464,734 

218, 876 

$66,024,.53S 

88,837 

833,797,317 

10C>,  607 
$29,16.5,086 
23,  432 
$3,061,935 
$16, 716, 524 
$1.54,912,979 
$267,  981,  724 

14, 188, 103 

324,866 

2,261,600 

1,117,946,776 

756 
$208,280,346 

m 

174,659 

$42,040,  .510 

61,760 

84,  ,558 
28,341 

$102,206,347 
$192,990,110 

10,653,435 

225,  7.59 

1,570,3+1 

760,343,981 

956 
$140,706,291 

135,369 
$39,044,132 
42, 790 
(») 

69, 637 

(») 

22,942 

8111,736,936 
8177,489,739 

7, 132,  415 
1.57.  310 

398, 308, 257 

1,091 
$98,58,5,269 

122.028 
8'23,940,108 
46, 859 
(») 

75,169 

!i| 

8.57,285,534 
8115,681,774 

o, 235, 727 
126,  313 
(') 
422,704,975 

1,094 
874,600,931 

92,286 
(=■) 
33, 150 

(») 

59,136 

f3 
\' 

$34,83.5,066 
$61,869,184 

641,240 

1,240 
861, 102, 359 

m 
(•) 

72,119 
(') 

,':') 

3 
4 

3 

4 
4 
(4 

846, 3.50, 453 
2,284,631 

7.5 
30.2 

74.0 
105.6 

36.1 
28.9 
61.2 
38.8 

16.0 
12.9 
70.1 
72.6 
29.6 
12.0 
24.2 

34.0 
38.7 
60.9 
62.3 

19.7 
70.0 

120.9 
48.0 

■12.4 
42.7 

10.3 
32.3 

111.8 
45  8 

Salaried  officials,  clerks, 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,average  num- 

25.3 
57.0 
43.8 

29.0 

7.7 
44.3 

10.9 
63.1 

■8.7 

32.2 

28.0 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over. . 
Wages 

41.4 

Women,  16   years   and 
over 

26.1 

21.4 

17,4 

27.1 

Children,  under  16years. 

•17.3 

23.5 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 

51.6 
39.5 

33.2 
43.9 
44.0 
49.0 

■8.5 
8.2 

49.4 
43.5 

95.1 

53.4 

36.2 
24.5 

64.5 
87.0 

'33.'5 

Looms,  number 

Cotton  consumed,  bales 

88.4 

16.8 

1  Decrease. 

=  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries:  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.    (See  Table  24.) 

3  Not  reported  separately. 

4  Not  reported. 


The  classification  of  cotton  goods  applies  in  all  the 
statistics  for  the  Twelfth  Census  to  results  in  those 
establishments  only  in  which  the  chief  industry  is  the 
spinning  of  cotton  yarn  and  the  weaving  of  piece 
goods — one  or  both.  The  designation  of  cotton  small 
wares  applies  to  establishments  chieiiy  engaged  in  the 
manufacture  of  the  following  classes  of  articles:  Shoe 
and  corset  lacings,  lamp  and  stove  wicks,  tapes,  web- 
bings (other  than  elastic),  lace  edgings,  dress  and 
upholstery  trimmings. 

In  order  to  preserve  the  basis  for  comparison  with 
statistics  of  former  censuses,  Table  5  combines  the  sta- 
tistics for  cotton  manufactures  and  cotton  small  wares 
for  1900,  and  shows  the  percentage  that  each  is  of  the 
total. 

Table  .5  shows  that  the  totals  for  capital,  wages,  cost 
of  materials,  and  value  of  products  for  cotton  small 
wares  i"epresented  about  2  per  cent  of  the  totals  for  the 
entire  cotton  manufactures,  and  for  the  number  of 
establishments  about  tS  per  cent. 

At  the  census  of  1890  the  average  capital  for  the  905 
establishments,  which  included  both  cotton  goods  and 
cotton  small  wares,  was  $391,182.  In  19U0  for  the 
1,055  establishments  of  both  classes  the  average  capital 
was  $442,882;  for  the  973  establishments  reported  as 
cotton  goods  only  it  was  $473,631;  and  for  the  82  classi- 
fied as  cotton  small  wares  it  was  $78,017. 


T.\Br.E  5.— COMBINED  SUMMARY, 
COTTON  SMALL  WARES:  1900, 
THAT  EACH  ITEM  IS  OF  TOTAL. 


COTTON    GOODS  AND 
WITH    PERCENTAGE 


Number  of  establish- 
ments  

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks, 

etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average 

number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and 

over 

Wages 

Women,    16   years 

and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16 

years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 
Cost  of  materials  used  . 
Value  of  products 


Active  spindles,  num- 
ber  ; 

Looms,  number 

Cotton  consumed,  bales 

Cotton  consumed, 
pounds '. 


Total. 


1,055 
$467, 240, 157 

4,902 
$7, 350, 199 

302,861 
$86,689,752 

135,721 
$17,  .594, 881 

126, 882 
$33,746,665 

40, 258 

$5,348,206 

$22,112,678 

8176,551,527 

$339,200,320 


19,050,9.52 

455,752 

3,646,708 

1,817,643,390 


Cotton  goods. 


973 

$160, 842, 772 

4,713 
87, 123, 674 

297, 929 
885,126,310 

134, 354 
846, 923, 365 

123, 709 
832,917,933 

39, 866 

$5,285,012 

821,6.50,144 

$173,441,390 

$332,806,156 


19,008,352 

4,50,682 

3,639,496 

1,814,002,512 


Cotton 
small 
wares. 


82 
86,397,385 

189 
$226,625 

4, 932 
$1,563,442 

1,367 
8671,616 

3,173 
8828, 732 

392 

$63, 194 

8462,534 

83, 110, 137 

86, 394, 164 


42,600 
8,070 
7,213 


PER  CENT  OF 
TOTAL. 


Cotton  ^"l^f 
goods.;  ™"" 
*  wares. 


92.2  I 
98.6 

96.1 
96.9 

98.4 
98.2  ' 

99.0 
98.6 

97.5 
97.5  ! 

99.0 
98.8 
97.9 
98.2 
98.1 


99.8 
98.9 
99.8 


7.8 
1.4 

3.9 
3.1 

1.6 
1.8 

1.0 
1.4 

2.5 
2.5 

1.0 
1.2 
2.1 
1.8 
1.9 


0.2 
1.1 

0.2 


With  this  general  explanation  of  the  new  sy.stem  of 
classification,  it  will  be  understood  that  all  the  tables 
hereafter  given,  except  Table  23,  make  the  comparison 


28 


MANUFACTURERS. 


between  cotton  goods  alone  in  I'.Miu  iind  cotton  manu- 
factures generall}'  prior  to  this  census.  It  is  believed 
that  the  slijifiit  difference  of  2  per  cent  will  not  seriously 
impair  their  general  usefulness  for  ])ur])oses  of  com- 
parison or  may  be  allowed  for  by  tlujse  who  desire 
more  exact  figures. 

GEOGRAPHIC  DISTRIBUTION    OF   THE    INDUSTRY. 

The  following  tabular  statement  will  bring  to  light 
the  most  interesting  and  the  most  important  fact  relat- 
ing to  the  growth  of  the  cotton-manufacturing  industry 
during  the  decade  1890-1900: 

SECTIONAL  DISTRIBUTION  OF  ESTABLISHJiIENTS. 


GEOGRAPHIC  DIVISIONS. 

1000 

1890 

1880 

New  England  states 

332 

225 

400 

16 

402 
239 
239 
26 

439 

Middle  states 

139 

Southern  states         

161 

17 

Total 

973 

905 

756 

The  decrease  in  the  number  of  establishments  in  the 
New  England  states  is  more  apparent  than  real.  It 
results  partly  from  the  elimination  of  certain  mills  from 
the  classification  as  "cotton  manufactures,"  already 
mentioned,  and  partly  from  the  consolidation  of  estab- 
lishments under  one  management.  The  same  reasons 
account  fully  for  the  decline  in  the  number  of  estab- 
lishments in  the  Middle  states:  New  York,  New  Jersey, 
Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  and  Maryland.  The  manu- 
facture has  never  existed  on  a  considerable  scale  in  the 
Western  states.  Comparative  distance  and  inaccessi- 
bility with  respect  to  the  supply  of  raw  cotton,  distance 
from  the  commercial  cities  which  are  the  headquarters 
of  the  dry  goods  trade,  and  difficulty  in  procuring  the 
requisite  trained  labor — these  and  other  causes  have 
hitherto  rendei-ed  the  West  an  undesiral)le  kx-ation  for 
cotton  mills,  which  need  for  economical  operation  cheap 
transpoi'tation  of  raw  material,  cheap  fuel  or  unfailing 
waterpower,  and  nearness  to  large  markets.  The  cot- 
ton manufacture,  moreover,  is  essentially  gregarious, 
and  enjoys  the  greatest  prosperity  where  it  is  carried 
on  by  large  establishments  or  by  large  groups  of  small 
mills. 

The  growth  of  the  industrj'  in  the  South  is  the  one 
great  fact  in  its  history  during  the  past  ten  years.  It 
will  be  seen  that  in  1880  there  were,  in  that  part  of  the 
countr_y,  161  establishments  only  which  made  reports  to 
the  census;  in  1890  there  were  only  239,  an  increase  of 
78,  or  48.4  per  c«nt;  and  in  1900  there  were  400  separate 
establishments,  an  increase  from  1890  of  161,  or  67.4 
per  cent.  A  scrutiny  of  the  returns  by  states  shows 
that  substantially  the  whole  increase  in  the  South  has 
been  in  the  4  states  of  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina, 
Georgia,  and  Alabama.  The  number  of  establishments 
in  these  4  states  was  119  in  1880,  191  in  1890.  and  356 


in  I'.ton.  In  llii'  (itlier  states  of  tlie  Southern  grouj)  the 
niimlicT  was  42  in  Isso,  4n  in  isiid.  and  4.5  in  1900. 

It  would  be  revealing  but  a  part  of  the  truth  to  I'est 
the  statement  ()f  Southern  industrial  exjMinsioii  upon 
the  number  of  establishments;  for  in  the  decade  1880- 
l.s9f)  the  luimix'r  of  spindles  in  the  foui-  leading  South- 
ern stafes  increased  almost  twofold,  from  422.81 17  to 
1,195,266;  and  the  average  number  of  spindles  to  a  mill 
increased  from  3,563  to  6.258.  In  the  decade  from  1890 
to  1900  the  progress  has  been  at  an  even  gi'eater  I'atio, 
although  the  basis  of  the  calculation  is  larger,  for  the 
total  number  of  spindle^s  is  3,791.654.  the  numerical 
increase  2,596,398,  the  percentage  of  increase  217.  and 
the  average  number  of  spindles  to  a  mill  has  become 
10.651.  The  subsequent  tables  in  this  report  will  give 
abundant  evidence  of  the  expansion  of  the  Southern 
cotton  industry  in  all  directions — in  capital,  consump- 
tion of  material,  employment  of  labor,  and  quantity 
and  value  of  product. 

Speaking  broadlj',  the  cotton  manufacturing  industry 
did  not  exist  in  the  South  before  the  Civil  War.  and  it 
existed  only  on  the  most  restricted  scale  before  1.S80. 
There  are  now  single  establishments  in  Massachusetts 
which  pay  annually  a  larger  sum  in  wages  than  the  en- 
tire cost  of  labor  in  Southern  cotton  mills  in  1880. 
The  mills  were  small,  equip|)ed  with  antiquated  ma- 
chinery, engaged  in  spinning  the  coarsest  numbers  only, 
and  in  producing  from  cotton  grown  in  the  neighbor- 
hood the  stout  fabrics  used  for  clothing  by  the  negroes. 
It  is  probably  not  an  exaggeration  to  say  that  prior  to 
188(t  there  was  not  a  mill  south  of  the  latitude  of 
Washington  that  would  be  classed  as  an  efficient  mod- 
ern cotton  factory,  even  accoi'ding  to  the  standard  of 
that  time.  Before  the  Civil  War  the  people  of  the 
South  were  almost  exclusively  engaged  in  agricultural 
pursuits.  The  ruling  classes  looked  with  disfavor  upon 
manufactures  and  discouraged  the  introduction  of  the 
industrial  arts  save  as  they  were  necessary  to  meet  local 
wants. 

After  the  war  closed  it  was  some  years  i>efore  the 
people  had  recovered  sufficiently  from  the  disaster  to 
undertake  manufacturing.  There  had  been  attempts  in 
the  direction  of  cotton  spinning  and  wea\ing  before 
1880,  but  the  cotton  exposition  in  Atlanta,  in  1881,  gave 
the  industry  an  impetus  which  it  has  never  since  lost. 
The  possibilities  of  the  region  were  shown  when  the 
governor  of  Georgia  appeared  at  the  fair  dressed  in  a 
suit  of  clothes  made  of  cottonade  manufactured  on  the 
grounds  from  cotton  which  had  been  picked  from  the 
stalk  on  the  morning  of  the  same  daj',  in  the  sight  of 
the  visitors  to  the  fair.  That  the  local  product  of 
cotton  could  be  worked  up  into  finished  cloth  without 
transportation  to  a  distant  manufacturing  town,  together 
with  the  fact  that  the  region  had  abundance  of  unem- 
ployed labor  of  a  class  similar  to  that  which  in  the 
early  days  operated  the  mills  of  Waltham,  Lowell,  and 


COTTON   MAN  UFACTUKES. 


29 


Miuichestor,  hroiiL;!it  hot'oro  t\w  people  tlic  vi.sion  of  a 
nevv  source  of  individiuil  mid  puhlic  wealth  to  which 
they  had  previouslj'  l)e«'n  blind. 

Otiee  the  opportunity  had  l)ecii  ])resented  to  thoin  the 
chance  wa.s  eagerly  seiz(>d,  and  all  who  were  al)le  to  do 
so  contributed  to  make  the  new  enterprise  successful. 
The  pre.sH  urged  it  upon  tho.se  who  liad  capital  to  invest, 
hailed  joyfully  every  manufacturing  project,  and  made 
much  of  every  succe.s,sful  estiiblishment.  Municipal 
aid  was  given  in  the  shape  of  exemi)tion  from  taxation 
for  a  term  of  years.  The  railroads  favored  the  scheme 
by  arranging  their  freight  schedules  so  as  to  encourage 
Southern  manufacturers.  The  factories  first  establislied 
under  the  new  regime  showed  large  profits,  and  thus 
atti'acted  more  capital  to  the  new  industry.  The 
advantages  of  the  Southern  country  for  cotton  manu- 
facturing began  to  attract  attention  in  the  North;  and 
in  many  cases  corporations  already  established  increased 
their  capital  and  built  new  mills  in  the  South  Atlantic 
states. 

The  earliest  Southern  enterprises  were  not  in  all  cases 
begun  as  first-class  establishments.  Some  of  them  were 
equipped  with  discarded  machinery  from  Northern 
mills.  But  the  manufacturers  quickly  learned  the  les- 
son that  there  is  no  industry  in  which  profits  are  more 
directly  proportioned  to  the  perfection  and  speed  of  the 
machinery  than  in  the  spinning  and  weaving  of  cotton; 
and  the  old  spindles  and  looms  were  .speedily  replaced 
with  others  of  the  newest  pattern.  A  great  proportion 
of  the  mills  built  and  started  within  the  pa.st  decade 
have  been  thoroughly  up  to  date  in  all  respects.  In 
fact  some  improvements  in  mill  construction  are  to  be 
found  in  that  section,  which  are  not  yet  introduced  in 
the  manufacturing  regions  of  the  North.  The  first  fac- 
tory operated  wholly  \>y  electricity,  without  shafting 
or  belts,  was  located  in  the  South,  and  until  near  the 
time  of  the  writing  of  this  report  it  was  the  only  fac- 
tory so  equipped.  By  the  use  of  electrical  power  it  is 
possible  to  place  the  mill  on  high  ground  at  a  suitable 
distance  from  mill  race  and  water  wheel,  and  thus  to 
secure  accessit)ility,  the  health  of  operatives,  and  other 
benefits  which  could  not  be  enjoyed  when  it  was  neces- 
sary to  put  the  foundations  of  the  mill  below  the  foot 
of  the  waterfall. 

The  growth  of  the  manufacturing  industry  in  the 
South  has  been  fairly  continuous  during  the  past  ten 
years.  How  large  it  has  been  the  figures  show.  For 
the  most  part  the  product  of  the  region  has  been  coarse 
or  medium  goods,  as  is  usually  the  case  in  the  early 
stages  of  the  industry.  Iiut  not  a  few  mills  have  been 
constructed  to  make  yarns  of  the  higher  mediiun  num- 
bers and  cloth  whicli  approaches  the  lower  limit  of  those 
classed  as  fine.  A  considerable  part  of  the  product  of 
the  region  is  exported.  The  industry  is  now  important 
enough  in  the  -i  states  of  North  t  aroliiia.  South  Caro- 
lina, Georgia,  and  Alabama  to  consume  nearly  one-third 


of  the  crop  of  cotton  grown  in  those  states;  and  both 
North  Carolina  and  South  Carolina  spin  more  than  half 
the  cotton  grown  within  their  limits. 

The  growth  of  the  industry  in  the  South  has  been 
remarkably  steady.  As  is  commonly  the  case  with 
enterprises  of  this  nature,  it  has  been  attended  with  not 
a  little  public  excitement;  more  mills  have  been  pro- 
jected than  have  been  built;  .some  have  been  erected 
which  their  projectors  would  not  have  erected  had  they 
studied  the  matter  carefully  before  entering  upon  the 
experiment.  But  the  failures  have  been  few,  and  upon 
the  whole  the  return  upon  investment  in  Southern  cot- 
ton mills  has  greatly  exceeded  that  upon  factories  in  the 
North.  The  iiwt  that  after  a  phenomenal  growth  dur- 
ing more  than  twenty  years  the  expansion  of  old  mills 
and  the  erection  of  new  ones  are  still  going  on  in  the 
South  is  ample  proof  of  the  success  of  the  enterprise. 

The  following  table,  made  up  from  files  of  the  New 
York  Commercial  and  Financial  Chronicle,  presents  a 
view  of  the  annual  increa.se  in  tlie  number  of  spindles 
in  the  states  south  of  the  District  of  Columbia  during 
the  past  twenty  years.  The  Chronicle  is  recognized  as 
among  the  best  authorities  upon  the  cotton  crop  and  its 
distribution.  Its  statements  for  the  first  few  3'ears  of 
the  period  covered  were  admittedly  estimates;  but 
from  the  j'ear  1888  they  are  based  upon  actual  returns 
from  the  Southern  mills  made  directly  to  the  Chronicle. 
For  the  census  years,  the  census  figures  are  substituted. 

SPINDLES  IN  SOUTHERN  MILLS,  AND  THEIR  CONSUMP- 
TION OF  COTTON. 


YEARS. 

Number  of 
spindles. 

Bales 

of  cotton 

used. 

1880-81              -            .              .              

610,000 
680,000 
860,000 
1,100,000 
1,1.50,000 
1,200,000 
1, 225, 000 

205,000 

238,000 

1882-83 

188:5-84 

l,KS4-,So                                                   

331,000 
334,000 
266, 000 

340,000 

1W6  87                                          .           

397, 929 

1SS7-S8 

I.s^s~rt9                                          

1,177,901 
1,344,576 
1,554,000 
1,756,047 

443,373 
486,603 

1.S89-90             

526, 8.56 

605, 916 

l,S91-92 

I8a2-y3 

1893-94 

l,s94-95                                                     

1,938,524 
2,082,197 
2,167,242 
2, 379, 281 
2.77U.284 
3,197,545 
3,574,754 
3, 832, 201 
4,298,188 

681,471 
733, 701 
723.3-29 
853, 3.52 

1895-96         

915.  .810 

1.H96  97 

1,024,482 

1897-98               

1,227.939 

1898  99 

1,400,026 

1899-1900       

1,477,775 

Although  there  has  been  a  surprising  growth  of 
the  industry  in  the  Southern  states,  yet  it  still  remains 
true,  as  it  has  been  true  ever  since  Samuel  Slater 
set  in  motion  the  first  spindles  operated  by  power  in 
this  country  at  Pawtucket,  R.  I.,  in  1791,  that  the  larg- 
est and  densest  concentnition  of  cotton  manufacturing 
in  the  United  States  is  in  southern  New  England.  A 
list  is  printed  in  the  American  State  Papers'  of  the  cot- 
con  mills  within  oM  miles  of  the   town  of  Providence, 

'  Finance,  Vol.  III. 


30 


MANUFACTURES. 


K.  1.,  in  Nov(Miiber.  ISOO.  Tho  mills  arc  eniinicratt'd  in 
the  clironoloj^iail  order  of  tlicir  e.^tablishnicnt,  Ijej^in- 
ning  with  the  Pawtucket  mill  of  Almy,  Brown  & 
Slater.  Twcntv-.seven  mill.s  are  mentioned  a.s  having 
in  the  aggregate  2o,40(i  spindles  "now  in  operation." 
but  as  having,  including  these,  34,900  spindles  "  which 
might  be  employed."  There  were  also  14  other  mills, 
all  established  in  18o!»,  with  23,600  spindles,  which  were 
evidently  not  yet  in  operation.  One  mill,  a  Titan  for 
those  times,  contained  10.000  spindles.  The  average  of 
the  41  factories,  counting  their  greatest  capacity,  was 
less  than  1,500  spindles,  and  all  combined  they  did  not 
greatly  exceed  the  average  of  one  Fall  River  mill  of  the 
present  time;  yet  they  constituted  the  greatest  concen- 
tration of  the  industrj'^  as  it  existed  ninety  years  before 
the  Twelfth  Census  was  taken.  In  the  year  litoO  there 
were,  within  the  .same  area,  7,20i:»,235  spindles,  as  is 
shown  l)v  the  following  table: 


Table    G.— NUMBER    OF    SPINDLES    IX    COTTON 
WITHIN  30  MILES  OF  PROVIDENCE,  R.  I. 


MILLS 


LOCATION   OF   ESTABLISHMENT.S. 


Total 

Brooklyn,  Windham  county.  Conn 

Killingly,  Windham  county.  Conn 

Plainfield.  Windham  county,  Conn 

Putnam,  Windham  county,' Conn 

Thompson,  Windham  county,  Conn 

Woodstock,  Windham  county,  Conn 

Voluntown,  New  London  county.  Conn 

Bristol  county.  Mass .' 

Blackstone  Worcester  county.  Mass 

Grafton.  Worcester  county.  Mass 

Xorthbridge.  Worcester  county.  Mass 

Oxford.  Worcester  ciiunty,  Mass 

Sutton.  Worcester  county.  Mass 

Uxbridge.  Worcester  county.  Mass 

Webster,  Worcester  county,'  Mass 

Bristol  county.  R.  I 

Hopkinton,  Washington  county,  R.  I 

Kent  county,  R.  1 

Newport  county.  R.  I 

Providence  county.  R.  I 


Producing 
spindles  (not 
including 
twisting,  or 
doubling 
spindles). 


7,209,236 


59, 864 

85.808 

74,736 

106, 800 

111,688 

1,200 

16.  .500 

4, 561, 129 

43,  548 

62, 344 

89, 264 

6,600 

54,496 

11,172 

81,000 

102, 104 
20, 194 

472, 406 

43,008 

1,206,374 


In  round  numbers  one-third  of  all  the  .spindles  in  tho 
L'nited  States  are  in  the  factories  within  that  small  area. 
It  was  remarked  in  the  report  on  the  Eleventh  Census 
that  '29.<il  per  cent  of  all  the  cotton  spindles  were  oper- 
ated in  the  two  adjoining  counties  of  Bri.stol,  Mass..  and 
Providence,  R.  I.  The  percentage  has  been  maintained. 
It  is  now  30.3,  and  it  greatly  exceeds  that  of  a!iy  other 
two  counties.  Indeed,  the  spindles  of  Providence 
county,  the  smaller  of  the  two,  outnumbered  those  of 
any  Southern  state  except  South  Carolina.  But  the 
percentage  of  New  England  as  a  whole  has  suffered 
a  considerable  decline.  In  1870  these  six  states  had  77 
per  cent  of  all  the  spindles;  in  ISSO  they  had  81  per  cent; 
in  1890  there  was  a  dei'line  to  76  per  cent;  and  the  per- 
centage in  1900  was  but  67.6. 

CAPITAL. 

Table  7  is  a  comparative  summary.  l)v  geographic 
divisions,  of  the  capital  invested  in  the  cotton  manu- 
facture in,  1900,  compared  with  1890,  with  percentages 
of  increase  for  the  decade. 

Table  7  shows  that  the  total  capital  employed  has 
increased  30.2  per  cent.  Taking  the  countr}'  as  a  whole, 
there  is  a  small  decrease  in  the  reported  value  of  the 
land.  This  is  explained  by  the  fact  that  in  a  great 
number  of  cases  the  land  upon  which  factories  are 
placed  has  but  a  nominal  value;  indeed,  it  had  scarcely 
any  value  before  the  factories  were  erected  and  would 
be  wholly  unsalable  if  the  buildings  were  removed.  In 
these  circumstances  the  oiEcers  making  returns  can  only 
estimate  the  value,  and  estimates  made  at  intervals  of  ten 
years  may  be  expected  to  vary.  There  appears  to  have 
been  an  ab.solute  decrease  in  the  value  of  land  in  New 
England  attached  to  cotton-manufacturing  establish- 
ments; and  the  increase  in  land  value  in  Southern  states 
is  30.8  per  cent,  although  the  whole  value  of  the  plant 
has  increased  131.4  per  cent. 


Table  7.— COMPARATIVE   SUMMARY,  COTTON   GOODS,    CAPITAL,    BY    GEOGRAPHIC    DIVISIONS,   WITH    PERCENT- 
AGES OF  INCREASE:     1890  AND  1900. 


GEOGRAPHIC  DIVISIONS. 

Year. 

Total. 

Land. 

Buildings. 

Machinery, 

tools,  and 

implements. 

= 

Cash  and 
sundries. 

tJnited  States 

1900 
1890 

$460,842,772 

354,020,843 

30.2 

$22,546,549 

23,225,097 

12.9 

?91,621,757 

69,742.664 

31.4 

$181,009,280 

138,025,806 

31.1 

$165.66.5,186 
123,027,276 

1900 
1890 

272,668,914 

243, 153, 249 

12.1 

59,078,820 

51,676,249 

14.3 

124,  .532, 864 

53,827,303 

131.4 

4, 562, 174 

5.364.042 

114.9 

14,820,308 

17, 074.  774 

113.2 

3,277,033 

2, 580, 935 

27.0 

4,2.50,540 

3,248,968 

30.8 

198.668 

320.420 

■38.0 

55, 523, 693 

47,871,383 

16.6 

11,327,917 

10,124.364 

11.9 

23.741.094 

10, 590, 952 

124.2 

1,029,1.53 

1, 1.55. 965 

Ul.O 

99, 093, 175 

91,666,375 

8.1 

20,779,919 

20,306,550 

2.8 

59,179,798 

24, 079, 920 

145.8 

1,956,388 

1,972,961 

'0.8 

103,231,838 
86,540,717 

Per  cent  of  increase 

Middle  states 

1900 
1890 

23, 693, 9.51 

18,664,400 

'J6  9 

Per  cent  of  increase 

Southern  states 

1900 
1890 

37,361,432 
15, 907, 463 

Western  states 

1900 
1890 

1.377,965 
1.914.696 

Per  cent  of  increase 

1  Decrease. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


31 


In  view  of  the  current  discussion  as  to  the  capitaliza- 
tion of  corporations  it  bcconie.s  intcrestinf^  to  note  tiiat 
the  ot)jections  to  the  practice  of  overcapitalization  can 
not  justly  l>e  uri^'od  aj^'ainst  cottim-inaiiufactui'iiiji'  estah- 
lishmentsj.  The  form  of  ownersliip  of  such  establish- 
ments is  to  a  remarkable  degree  the  corporate.  Of  the 
973  separate  establishments  here  reported,  708  are 
classed  as  corporations,  l-i2  are  individual,  and  123  are 
partnerships  or  firms.  Even  this  does  not  show  the 
actual  situation  dotinitely,  since  .5fi  of  the  individual 
and  68  of  the  partnership  establislnnents  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  most  of  them  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia,  are 
weaving  factories  only,  and  individually  of  moderate 
importance.  Outside  of  Pennsylvania  there  are  (378 
corporations,  86  individual,  and  55  partner.ship  estab- 
lishments. With  reference  to  the  two  latter  classes, 
there  can,  of  course,  be  no  cjuestion  of  ovei'capitaliza- 
tion.  The  capital  they  report  is  simply  that  employed 
in  their  business.  But  the  incorporated  companies 
have  a  share  capital  to  an  amount  specified  in  their 
respective  charters.  Table  8  shows,  by  geographic  di- 
visions, the  capital  for  corporations  as  reported  at  the 
census  of  1',»<)U,  compared  with  the  nominal  capital  of 
corporations  as  represented  by  their  capital  stock. 

Table  8.— COMPARISOxN  OF  CAPITAL  OF  CORPORATIONS, 
AS  REPORTED  AT  CENSUS,  WITH  CAPITAL  STOCK, 
BY  STATES  AND  GEOGRAPHIC  DIVISIONS:  1900. 


United  States. 


New  England  states. 


Maine 

New  Hampshire. 

Vermont 

Massac-husc'tts. .. 
Ehodt-  Ishiiid  ... 
Conneoticut 


Middle  states. 


New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania  . 
Maryland 


Southern  states. 


Virginia 

North  Carolina . 
South  Carolina . 

Georgia 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

Alabama 

Mississippi 

Arkansas 

Louisiana 

Texas 


Western  states. 


Ohio 

Indiana  . .. 

Illinois 

Wisconsin  . 
Missouri... 
Nebraska. . 
Colorado  . . 
California  . 


Capital  as 

reported  at 

census. 


Capital  stock. 


8385, 863, 827 


238, 502, 315 


20,974,669 
28,713,786 
1,696,331 
135,873,779 
30,466,097 
20, 777, 653 

33, 521, 797 


12, 455, 548 

12, 603, 262 

5, 314, 968 

3,248,019 

109,589,031 


338,206 
840, 465 
275, 727 
826, 464 
867, 605 
105, 095 
609, 595 
199,249 
249, 828 
716,688 
660, 109 


4,250,684 


56,692 
1,632.586 
831,047 
455, 235 
166, 600 
190, 819 
647.805 
371,000 


8204, 157, 914 


128,703,500 


ll,630,tX)0 
17,72.i,OUO 
1,050,000 
71,088,500 
15,367,000 
11,843,000 

15,205,000 


5, 046, 000 
5, 145, 000 
2, 734, 000 
2,280,000 

57,101,352 


2,886,700 

14,364,500 

17,835,200 

10,874,952 

1,325,000 

1,634,000 

5, 300, 000- 

1,231,000 

200.000 

850,000 

600,000 

3, 148. 062 


2.5,000 
800,000 
500,000 
375, 000 
24S, 062 
160,000 
2.'iO,  000 
800,000 


Note.— In  the  foregoing  table  the  nominal  capital  stock  reported  of  the  com- 
panies now  united  in  the  three  industrial  combinations  is  that  of  the  separate 
companies  before  the  amalgamation.  The  present  capital  stock  is  larijer  by 
815.2UO.000,  and  the  total  capital  stock  tor  the  whole  country  is$21U,3.57,914".  The 
addition  can  not  conveniciitly  be  shown  by  states,  inasmuch  as  the  plants  of 
two  of  the  three  combinations  are  located  in  several  .stales.  Moreover,  the 
three  industrial  combinations  have  issued  an  aggregate  amount  of  826,600  000 
bonds. 


It  appears  from  Table  8  that  not  only  in  the  United 
States  as  a  whole,  and  in  each  of  the  geographical 
divisions,  but  in  every  individual  state,  except  Missouri 
and  California,  the  actual  inv(>sted  ca])ital  exceeds  the 
par  value  of  the  share  capital.  Undoubtedly  a  consid- 
erable amount,  many  millions  of  dollars  in  the  aggre- 
gate, of  tht!  capital  reported  to  tht;  census  represents 
borrowed  money;  but  after  making  tiie  largest  reason- 
able allowance  for  this  item  there  must  remain  an 
excess  of  at  least  2.5  per  cent  of  assets  over  the  nominal 
value  of  the  shai'e  capital.  Very  few  cotton-inaiuifac- 
turing  establishments  have  a  bonded  del)!. 

In  this  connection  it  may  be  icmarked  that  the  .system 
of  industrial  conibitiatioii,  commonly  known  as  the 
"trust,"  has  not  seriously  invaded  the  cotton-manufac- 
turing industry.  There  were  in  1900  only  three  such 
combinations:  The  New  England  Cotton  Yarn  Cf)mpan3^, 
which  produces  but  a  small  fraction  of  the  yarns  made 
for  sale;  the  Mount  Vernon-Woodberry  Cotton  Duck 
Company,  which  produces  a  consideral)le  part  of  the 
.sail  duck  made  in  the  country;  and  the  American 
Thread  Company,  which  has  combined  several  of  the 
large  estalilishments  which  produce  sewing  thread. 
The  total  value  of  the  plants  and  miscellaneous  items  of 
capital  of  all  the  estal)lishments  controlled  by  these 
three  industrial  combinations  is  $31,077,009.  Their 
combined  capital  stock  is  $33,000,000,  and  the  total  of 
their  bonded  debt  is  $26,500,000. 

EMPLOYEES    AND   AVAGES. 

In  1900  the  average  number  of  emploj'ees  in  the  cot- 
ton industry  (excluding  cotton  small  wares),  including 
officers  and  clerks,  was  802,6^2,  an  increase  of  81,057, 
or  36.54  per  cent  over  the  total  for  cotton  goods  and 
cotton  small  wares  in  1890.  Of  this  increase  more  than 
60,000,  or  three-fourths  of  the  whole,  were  in  the  South- 
ern states.  The  figures  which  show  the  number  and 
compensation  of  officers,  clerks,  and  superintendents  re- 
quire no  discussion.  They  are  useful  merely  for  the  com- 
pletion of  the  statistics  and  to  bring  out  in  its  true  light 
the  magnitude  of  the  industiy.  The  real  interest  lies  in 
the  facts  regarding  those  who  are  more  strictly  classified 
as  wage-earners,  the  operatives  in  the  mills.  The 
importance  of  the  figures  relating  to  them  is  enhanced 
bv  the  circumstance  tiiat  the  cotton-manufacturing 
industry  is  typical  of  the  factory  system  in  its  highest 
form  and  on  the  largest  scale.  There  is  scarcely  another 
industry  that  approaches  it  in  the  numbers  of  hands 
employed  within  mills;  and  the  numbers  of  men  and 
women  employed  are  more  nearly  etjual  than  is  the  ca.se 
with  any  other  industiy  of  a  magnitude  to  be  compared 
with  this. 

Table  9  shows  the  number  of  wage-earners,  men, 
women,  and  children,  by  geographical  divisions,  at  the 
censuses  of  1880,  1890,  and  1900;  and  Table  11  shows 
the  percentages  of  men,  women,  and  children  of  total 
wage-earners,  by  geographic  divisions,  for  1880,  1890. 
and  1900. 


32 


MANLTACTURES. 


Table  9.— COTTON  GOODS,  WAGE-KAKXERS,  AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  MEN,  WOMKX,  AND  CHILDREN,  BY 

GEOGRAPHIC  DIVISIONS:  1880  TO  1900. 


SKOGKAPHIC   DIVISIONS. 


United  States 297,929 


19001  1890  1880 


New  England  .states 162,294 

Middio  slates I  34,843 

Southern  states [  97,494 

Western  states 3,298 


218,876 


172,544 


147, 359  125, 779 

31,841  28,118 

36,413  ,  16,317 

3,261  I  2,330 


MEN,  16  TEARS  AND  OVER. 


1900  1890  1880 


134,354 


88,837 


59,683 


WOMEN,  16  YEARS  AND  OVER. 


1900  1890 


123,709 


78,217 

14,473 

40,528 

1,136 


63,749 

11,. '580 

12,517 

991 


43,  .521  ! 
8,919 
4,633 
612 


73.258 

16,056 

32,528 

1,867 


106,607 


73,445 
16,240 
1.3, 0S3 
1,839 


18S0 


»1,339 


62,.5.V4 
13,185 
7,  .587 
1,213 


CHILDREN,  DNDER  16  YEARS. 


1900  1890 


39,866 


23,432 


1S80 


28,320 


10,819  10,165  17,704 

!,314  ;    4,021  6.014 

24,438  I    8,815  4,097 

295  I     431  I  303 


1  Does  not  include  cotton  small  wares  in  1900. 


Table  lO.— COTTON  GOODS,  WAGE-EARNERS,  PERCENT- 
AGE OF  ^lEN,  WOMEN,  AND  CHILDREN,  BY  GEO- 
GRAPHIC DIVISIONS:  1880  TO  1900. 


MEN. 

WOMEN. 

CHILDREN. 

fiEOGRAPHIC 
DIVISIONS. 

Per  cent  of  all    '1    Per  cent  of  all 
wage-earners.     i[     wage-earners. 

Per  cent  of  all 
wage-earners. 

:9oo 

1S90 

1$S0 

1900 

1S90 

1880 

1900 

1890    1880 

United  States... 

45.1 

40.6 

31.6 

41.5 

48.7 

49.0 

13.4 

10.7 

16.4 

New  England  states  . . 

Middle  states 

Southern  states 

We.stern  states 

48.2 
41.5 
41.6 
34.4 

43.3 
36.4 
34.4 
:30.4 

36.2 
31.7 

28.4 
26.3 

45.1 
46.1 
33.4 
56.6 

1 

49.8 
.51.0 
41.4 
56.4 

49.7 
46.9 
46.5 
52.0 

6.7 
12.4 
23.0 

9.0 

6.9 
12.6 
24.2 
13.2 

14.1 

21.4 
25.1 

21.7 

Tables  9  and  10  .show  that  of  the  men,  women,  and 
children  employed,  first,  the  actual  numbers  of  each 
cla.ss  have  increa.sed  during  the  past  ten  years,  and.  sec- 
ond, the  nunil)er  of  men  has  increased  much  more  rapidly 
than  the  number  either  of  women  or  of  children. 

In  the  whole  countr\-  there  has  been  a  numerical 
increase  from  1890  to  1900  of  45,517  men.  of  17,102 
women,  and  of  16,43i  children.  There  was  an  increase 
in  the  number  of  men  in  everv  section:  a  very  slight 
decrease  in  the  number  of  women  in  ever}"  division 
except  the  Southern  states,  and  an  increase  in  the  num- 
ber of  children  in  the  South,  whereas  in  the  rest  of  the 
country  the  number  was  nearly  stationary.  Since,  in  an 
expanding  industrv.  the  numbers  of  all  classes  ought  to 
increase,  a  better  medium  for  the  sociological  study  of 
the  condition  of  affairs  is  afforded  by  the  second  table, 
from  which  it  appears  that  there  is  now  for  the  first 
time  a  preponderance  of  the  proportion  of  men  em- 
ploj'ed,  over  the  women.  The  proportion  of  men  for 
the  whole  country  increased  from  -10. •>  per  cent  in  1890 
to  45.1  per  cent  in  1900:  the  proportion  of  women 
declined  from  -48.7  per  cent  in  l8ViO  to  41.5  per  cent  in 
1900;  the  proportion  of  children  advanced  from  10.7 
per  cent  to  13.4  per  cent. 

The  i-eturns  for  the  Tenth  Census  afford  the  means  of 
discovering  thiit  with  a  slight  moditication  the  readjust- 
ment of  labor  conditions  has  been  going  on  for  at  least 
twenty  j-ears.  Between  1880  and  1890  then'  was  an 
increase  of  6  men  in  eveiy  group  of  1<.»0  mill  opera- 
tives. The  number  of  women  in  the  group  remained 
unchanged,  owing  to  the  partial  discontinuance  of  the 
practice  of  employing  children  in  all  parts  of  the  coiui- 


try  except  the  South.  In  the  mills  of  New  England, 
which  then  formed  a  larger  fraction  of  the  total  than 
they  do  now,  the  number  of  children  in  mills  was 
reduced  from  14  in  every  10(J  to  7.  Between  1890  and 
1900  occurred  the  maiTelous  expansion  of  the  industry 
in  the  South,  with  the  usual  result  of  such  an  event,  a 
great  demand  for  labor  and  the  emploj-ment  of  whole 
families.  The  proportion  of  children  was  slightly  in- 
creased there,  by  1  in  liMi,  but  the  proportion  of  women 
diminished  by  8,  and  that  of  men  increased  by  7,  in  each 
100.  In  New  England  the  proportion  of  men  increa.sed 
5,  that  of  women  decreased  5.  in  each  100.  and  the  pro- 
portion of  children  remained  stationar3\ 

The  important  fact  resulting  from  an  examination  of 
all  these  proportions  is  that  the  tendency  is  more  and 
more  to  the  employment  of  men.  which,  looking  at  the 
matter  from  the  social  point  of  view,  is  highly  desir- 
able, in  that  it  diminishes  the  use  of  the  labor  of  women 
in  factory  service,  and  doubly  desirable  in  discontinu- 
ing the  emploj^ment  of  child  labor.  In  this  last  respect 
reform  has  not  yet  reached  the  Southern  mills,  where  the 
supply  of  labor  is  not  equal  to  the  demand.  But  the 
evils  of  the  system  of  employing  children  are  fully 
recognized,  an  agitation  for  its  abandonment  is  in  prog- 
ress, and  no  doubt  the  coming  decade  will  see  a  sub- 
stantial diminution  of  it. 

The  explanation  of  the  generally  increased  employ- 
ment of  men  is  obvious.  The  chief  reasons  are  two: 
First,  that  the  operation  of  some  of  the  modern  ma- 
chines requires  the  care  of  men,  because  it  is  beyond 
the  physical  and  nervous  capacity  of  women.  For  ex- 
ample, the  improved  high-speed  and  automatic  looms, 
many  of  which  are  put  under  the  charge  of  one  weaver, 
fan  l)e  operated  most  etticienth'  by  men.  ^Moreover, 
there  has  undoubtedly  been  a  decrease  in  the  number  of 
women  employed  as  mule  spinners.  The  second  cause 
of  the  change  in  the  relative  proportion  of  men  and 
women,  which,  for  rea.sons  presently  to  be  stated,  is 
largely  influential  in  the  North,  is  it.self  a  result  of  a 
generally  improved  condition  of  labor.  Whereas  for- 
merly it  was  the  custom  for  an  entire  family,  or.  at 
least,  several  of  its  members,  to  be  employed  in  a  mill, 
the  father  now  earns  enough  to  relieve  the  mother  and 
some  of  the  children  of  the  necessitj'  of  going  into  the 
factory;  or.  perhaps,  the  mother  and  the  elder  daugh- 
ters  tind  other  employment  in   the  shops  and  offices 


CO'lTUN  MANUFAC^riJRKS. 


33 


which  inanufacturinij  influstry  attructs  to  a  coiiiiminitj'. 
It  is  not  su<»'iji\stod  that  tlio  chanirc  is  one  uiiivorsally  to 
1)0  observed.  Possibly  the  tendency  is  so  slight  that 
tlie  fact  of  such  a  change  going  on  can  be  discovered 
only  when  the  st^itistics  are  studied  in  a  large  way. 
Nevertheless,  the  cases  are  sufficiently  numerous  to 
justify  the  assignment  of  this  as  one  cause  of  the  gradual 
cliangc  that  is  tailing  [)lace  in  the  proportion  of  men 
and  women  in  the  iiidustr}'  as  a  whole. 

The  change  has  not  yet  ])erceptibly  affected  the  South. 
Tiiere  the  labor  conditions  are  dirt'erent.  The  industry 
is  growing  at  a  wonderful  rate.  The  help  employed  is 
chiefly  local.  Whole  families  in  that  region  enter  the 
factories,  because  in  no  other  way  can  the  demand  for 
labor  be  satisfied.  Consecj  aently  the  changes  in  the  pro- 
portion of  men,  women,  and  childri-n  employed  are 
largely  fortuitous.  Rough!}-  sp(>aking.  there  were  three 
times  as  many  men.  twice  as  njan}'  women,  and  nearly 
three  times  as  many  children  employed  in  Southern 
mills  in  liioo  as  there  were  in  18!tU.  The  numerical 
increase  was  28,011  men,  17,44-5  women,  and  1.5,023 
children.  Manufacturers  took  whom  they  could  get  for 
operatives  in  tlie  new  mills.  The  employment  of  chil- 
dren was  not  a  matter  of  choice  but  of  necessity,  and, 
economically,  is  a  losing  rather  than  a  profitable  system; 
for  more  than  the  saving  in  tlie  dollars  and  cents  of 
their  wages  is  lost  when  the  quantity  and  (luality  of 
their  work  are  considered. 

SKILLED   OPERATIVES. 

It  was  intended  to  make  a  complete  canvass  of  the 
spinners  and  weavers  employed  in  the  cotton  mills  of 
the  country,  classified  as  men,  women  and  children. 
Owing  to  a  defect  in  the  form  of  the  inquiry,  which 
was  not  discovered  in  season  to  make  a  correction,  there 
is  reason  to  believe  that  some  of  the  numbers  were 
incorrectly  returned,  and  the  full  table  is  not  presented. 
Some  facts  which  are  trustworthy  were,  nevertheless, 
obtained.  It  was  ascertained  that  during  the  census 
year  there  were  between  .5,000  and  6,000  persons 
employed  as  mule  spinners,  of  whom  about  2,250  were 
employed  in  Massachusetts  mills,  T50  in  Rhode  Island, 
60i.»  in  New  York,  and  35(1  in  Connecticut.  About 
nine-tenths  of  the  mule  spinners  were  men.  On  the 
other  hand,  of  aliout  1-3,000  frame  spinners,  only  about 
one-sixth  were  men,  and  five-sixths  were  women  and 
children. 

The  report  of  the  number  of  weavers  is  entitled  to 
ir.ore  confidence  than  that  of  spinners.  l)ut  it  is  not  suf- 
ficiently accui'ate  to  f)e  presented  in  detail.  The  num- 
ber of  weavers  returned  was  91.515,  of  whom  1-1.77H 
were  men, -17,911  were  women,  and  1,79S  were  ('hildren. 
There  are  no  earlier  returns  with  which  to  compare 
these  numbers.  But  it  is  well  known  to  those  conver- 
sant with  the  industry  that  only  a  few  years  ago  the 
weaving  of  cotton  goods  was  regarded  as  peculiarly  the 

MON TEXT 3 


work  of  women.  The  introduction  of  improved  and 
fast  looms  has  led  more  and  more  to  the  employment 
of  men  as  weavers.  The  tendency  is  so  marked  that  the 
next  enumeration  sliould  show  the  men  in  a  majority. 

WAGES. 

It  is  a  matter  of  general  experience  that  wages  in 
cotton  mills  were  higher  in  1900  than  they  were  in  1890. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  obtain  a  true  average  by  ap- 
plying the  rules  of  arithmetic  to  magnitudes  of  such 
diverse  nature  as  those  which  represent  thi^  numbers  of 
operatives  employed  and  the  gross  amount  paid  to  them 
in  wages.  Moreover  the  method  of  ascertaining  the 
average  number  of  persons  employed,  which  was  used 
at  the  census  of  1900.  was  quite  difl'erent  from  that 
adopted  in  1890,  and  the  figures  for  1890  are  exclusively 
those  for  skilled  labor. 

MISCELLANEOUS   EXPENSES. 

Table  11  is  a  comparative  summary  of  miscellaneous 
expenses,  showing  the  per  cent  that  each  item  is  of  the 
totals  for  1890  and  1900. 

T.\BLE  11.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  COTTON  GOODS, 
MISCELLANEOUS  EXPENSES,'  1890  AND  1900,  WITH 
PER  CENT  WHICH  EACH  ITEM  FORMS  OF  TOTAL. 


1900 

1890 

Amount. 

Percent 
of  total. 

Amount.       Ir^ZT 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal 
revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  interest,  insur- 
ance, and    all    sundry    ex- 
penses not  hitherto  included. 

820,057,190 

100.0 

816,716,524            100.0 

691,075 

3. 521.  tiOC 

15, 8-14, -WJ 

3.4 

17.B 

79.0 

486,735               2.9 

2.689,632               16.1 

13,536,157  1            81.0 

•  Exclusive  of  contract  work. 

Table  11  shows  that  the  amount  paid  for  rent  of  works 
was  exceeding!}'  small  when  the  magnitude  of  the  indus- 
tiT  is  considered.  As  against  the  total  value  of  land 
and  buildings  owned  in  1900,  of  §ill-l-.16S,300,  and  in 
1890,  of  $92,967,761.  there  was  paid  for  rent  of  works 
by  manufacturers  who  did  not  own  all  the  plant  used, 
in  1900  the  sum  of  |691,075.  and  in  1890  the  sum  of 
$488,735.  Estimating  the  average  rent  at  6  per  cent, 
the  value  of  the  land  and  buildings  rented  would  have 
been  $11,517,917  in  1900,  and  $8,145,583  in  1890,  or 
about  one-tenth  of  the  real  estate  owned  at  the  time  of 
each  census. 

MATERIALS   USED. 


,The  consumption  of  raw  cotton  of  all  kinds,  donie.stic 
and  foreign,  in  all  the  textile  mills  of  the  country  dur- 
insr  the  census   vear  was  3,872,165  bales,  having  an 


34 


MANUFACTURES. 


agjjTCcrato  wciofht  of    1.923. 704. 600  pounds.     'I'ho  uso 
of  cotton  bv  the  several  textile  industries  was  as  follows: 


In  cotton  mills  proper 

In  hosiery  and  Icnit  goods  mills 

In  woolen  mills 

In  worsted  mills 

In  cotton  small  wares  mills 

In  carpet  mills 

In  c<irdaffc  and  twine  mills 

In  felt  and  shotldy  mills 

Total 


Bales. 


Pounds. 


3,639,495 

1,814,002,512 

99,518 

49,451,301 

80,725 

34,  %7, 959 

12,079 

5, 276, 7.51 

7,213 

3, 640, 878 

3,813 

1. 943, 942 

26,540 

13,022,755 

2,782 

1,398,  .502 

3,872,165     1,923,704,600 


At  the  Twelfth  Cen.sus  no  inquirj'  was  made  which 
reveals  the  variety  of  cotton  used,  save  in  respect  to  the 
cotton  manufacturing  industry  proper,  cotton  small 
wares,  and  cordage  and  twine.  It  may  nevertheless  be 
assumed  without  risk  of  serious  error  that  in  establish- 
ments dealing  with  the  wool  fiber  all  the  cotton  used 
was  the  ordinary  domestic  staple.  A  certain  amount 
of  the  cotton  consumed  in  the  few  hosiery  mills  which 
reported  spindles  was  Egyptian,  and  a  small  quantity 
of  sea-island  cotton  was  reported  b\'  one  establishment, 
which  is  classified  as  "cordage  and  twine,"' as  having 
been  used  in  the  manufacture  of  sewing  thread.  Disre- 
garding these  exceptions  we  may  make  the  following 
classification  of  the  cotton  consumed: 


Bales. 

Pounds. 

Sea-island 

47,207 

3,748,750 

76,208 

18, 442, 634 

1,849,417,034 

55, 844, 932 

Egyptian  and  other  foreign 

Total 

3,872,166 

1, 923, 704, 600 

The  figuies  in  the  two  preceding  tables  are  those 
which  are  to  be  compared  with  the  commercial  and  otii- 
cial  statistics,  in  which  no  discrimination  is  made  be- 
tween the  several  classes  of  factories  in  which  the  cotton 
is  consumed.  Taking  first  the  greatest  item,  that  of 
ordinar}'  domestic  cotton,  the  report  of  the  New  York 
Commercial  and  Financial  Chronicle — which  is  generally 
accepted  In-  manufacturers  as  the  most  thorough  and 
accurate — accounts  for  the  taking  of  3,792,618  bales,  by 
manufactui-ers  North  and  South  during  the  crop  year 
181tH-iy00.  The  corresponding  census  number  is 
3,748,750  bales.  Inasmuch  as  the  commercial  returns 
are  for  a  year  beginning  September  1,  1809,  whereas 
those  of  the  census  are  for  the  year  beginning  June  1, 
18!t',t,  and  in  the  case  of  not  a  few  mills  some  months 
earlier,  the  divergence  of  the  two  reports  is  small  and 
easily  to  be  accepted;  and  the  close  approximation  of 
the  two,  especially  when  it  is  remembered  that  there  is 
a  not  inconsiderable  amount  of  cotton  which  is  used  for 
purposes  other  than  spinning,  is  a  confirmation  of  the 
accuracy  of  both.  Against  the  census  return  of  47,207 
bales  of  sea-i.sland  cotton  used  in  the  mills  herein  re- 
ported, the  Chronicle  reports  49,543  bales  of  that 
variety  of  cotton  left  for  consumption  in  the  United  States 


aftei-  deducting  the  amount  exported  from  the  total 
crop.  This  is  a  .still  closer  correspondence  between 
the  two  sets  of  figures.  The  difference  between  them 
is  no  greater  than  may  easily  be  explained  upon  the 
grounds  already  mentioned.  The  imports  of  foreign 
cotton  during  the  fiscal  year  ended  .June  30,  19o<i, 
amounted  to  67,398,521  pounds,  of  which  1.381,463 
pounds  was  reexported.  The  importation  during  the 
calendar  year  1899,  with  which  the  consumption  dur- 
ing the  census  year  corresponded  more  nearly,  was 
62,014,809  pounds,  and  the  net  importation  was 
61,296,346  pounds,  which  exceeded  by  aliout  lo  per 
cent  the  amount  reported  in  the  preceding  table.  It 
has  already  been  explained  that  a  certain  amount — the 
exact  quantity  can  not  be  stated — is  masked  in  the 
returns  of  cotton-hosiery  mills  which  were  not  asked 
to  specify  the  kind  of  cotton  used.  Relative  to  these 
figures,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that,  whereas,  the 
quantities  reported  in  commercial  returns  are  the  gross 
purchases  of  material  by  manufacturers,  the  census 
figures  are  those  of  cotton  which  was  actually  manu- 
factured and  which  entered  into  the  merchandise 
reported  under  the  head  of  products. 

In  1900  the  consumption  of  cotton  in  cotton  mills 
proper  was  as  follows: 


Bales. 

Pounds. 

Sea-island  . 

47,207 

3,516,080 

76, 208 

18,442,634 

1,739.714,946 

65,844,932 

Other  domestic 

Total 

3,639,495 

1,814,002,512 

"other    domestic"    COTTON. 

The  consumption  of  domestic  cotton,  other  than  sea 
island,  in  the  cotton  mills  of  the  country  during  the 
census  j'ear  was  3,516,080  bales,  as  compared  with 
2,231,385  bales  reported  at  the  census  of  1890,  an  in- 
crease of  58  per  cent.  The  average  weight  of  l)ales  was 
494.8  pounds.  By  geographic  divisions  the  consump- 
tion of  cotton  by  bales  and  pounds,  and  the  average 
weight  of  bales,  was  as  follows: 


GEOGRAPHIC   nlVlSIONS. 

Bales. 

Average 
Pounds.         weight  of 
bales. 

1,719,622 

272,947 

1,477,775 

45, 736 

874,011,267            608.3 

Middle  States 

135,004,971            494.6 

707,159,521             478.5 

Western  states 

23, 539, 197            614. 7 

Total     

3,516,080 

1,739,714,946            494.8 

The  variation  shown  in  the  weight  of  bales  between 
the  Northern  and  the  Southern  sections  of  the  cotton- 
spinning  industry  is  in  strict  accordance  with  experi- 
ence. The  bales  made  up  from  the  crop  of  the  Missis- 
sippi valley  and  of  Texas  are  heavier  than  those  of  the 
Atlantic  coast  states.  Spinners  in  the  Carolinas  and  in 
Cieorgia,  therefore,  relying  largely  upon  the  local  sup- 
ply, make  use  of  lighter  bales  than  manufacturers  in 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


35 


the  Kastern  states,  who  draw  largel_y  upon  tlie  South- 
west for  their  raw  material.  The  average  weight  of 
bales  of  the  entire  cotton  crop  of  the  United  States 
during  the  crop  year  ending  August  31,  1900,  was, 
according  to  the  commercial  reports,  503.69  pound.s; 
but  the  average  weight  of  bales  in  the  Carolinas  and 
Georgia,  from  which  states  the  bulk  of  the  cotton  con- 


sumed in  the  South  was  derived,  was  but  -189.91  pounds; 
whereas,  the  bales  of  Louisiana  and  Texas  averaged  a 
weight  of  .514.8  pounds. 

Table  12  presents  the  facts  relating  to  the  cotton  crop 
of  the  United  States  for  twenty -one  years,  1880  to  1900, 
inclusive,  as  reported  bj'  the  United  States  Treasury 
Department. 


Tahi-e  12.— quantities  OF  RAW  COTTON  PRODUCED,  BII'OKTKD,  EXPORTED,  AND  RETAINED  FOR  CONSUMPTION, 

1880  TO   1900.' 


YEAR   ENDING   Jl'NE  30— 


1880. 
1881  . 
1882. 
1883. 
1884. 
1885. 
1886. 
1887  . 
1888. 
1889  . 
1890. 

1891  . 

1892  . 
1893. 
1894. 
1895. 
1896. 
1897. 
1898. 
1899. 
1900. 


PRODUCTION. 


Annual 
crop.- 


Crop  in  pounds, 
gross  weight. 


Bales. 
5,761,252 

6,605,7.'J0 
o,4.5(),048 


6, 949, 756 
5,  713, 200 
6,706,165 
0, 575, 691 
6,505,087 
7, 046, 833 
6,938,290 
7,311,322 
8, 652, 597 
9,035,379 
6,700,365 
7,M9,817 
9,901,251 
7,157,346 
8, 757, 964 
11,199,994 
11,274,840 
9, 436, 416 


Pmmds. 
2,771,797,156 
3, 199, 822, 682 
2,588,240,050 
3,405,070,410 
2, 757, 5)4, 422 
2,742,966,011 
3,182,30.5,659 
3,157,378,443 
3, 439, 172,  391 
3,439,934,799 
3,627,366,183 
4,316,043,982 
4,606,575,984 
3,352,658,458 
3,769,381,478 
5, 036, 9M,  409 
3,692,416,851 
4,397,177,704 
5,677,259,827 
5,794,767,917 
4,757,062,942 


Exports  of  do- 
mestic. 


Pounds, 
1,822,061,114 
2,191,928,772 
1.739,976,961 
2,288,075,062 
1,862,  .572,  .530 
1,891,6,59,472 
2, 0.58, 037, 444 
2.169,4.57,330 
2,204,120,826 
2.384.816,669 
2,471,799,853 
2,907,358,796 
2,935,219,811 
2,212,115.126 
2, 683, 282, 325 
3, 617, 533, 109 
2,336,226,385 
3,103,7.54,949 
3, 860, 264, 296 
3,773,410,293 
3, 100, 583, 188 


Domestic  re- 
tained for 
consumption. 


Pounds. 

949, 736, 042 
1,007,893,910 

848,2(;4,089 
1,116.995,348 

894,971.892 

8,51, 306,  .539 
1,124,208,215 

987,921,113 
1,17,5, 0.51,. 565 
1,0.5.5,118,130 
1,1.55.  .506, 330 
l,40.S,0.t.5, 187 
1,. 571, 3.56, 173 
1,140.  .513, 3.'i2 
1,086,099,153 
1,519,431,300 
1,2.57,190,406 
1,29.3,422,7.55 
1, 826, 995, 632 
2, 021,. 3.57, 624 
1,656,479,754 


Imports. 


Pounds. 

3, 547, 792 

4, 449, 866 

4, 339, 9,52 

4,081,945 

7, 019, 492 

.5,11.5,680 

5, 072, 334 

3, 924,. 531 

5, 497, 592 

7,973,039 

8,606,049 

20,908,817 

28,663,709 

43, 367, 952 

27, 705, 949 

49,332,022 

55, 3,50, 520 

.51.89,8,926 

52,600,363 

,50, 1.5S,  1.58 

07,398,521 


Exports  of 
foreign. 


Pounds. 

234,729 

1,2-10,570 

1,813,490 

3,238,930 

1,3.53,930 

1,009,200 

1,270,901 

710,  371 

203,  972 

187,959 

248, 104 

447, 794 

132, 777 

300, 832 

1, 029, 936 

771,614 

1,188,356 

1,  188, 523 

499, 684 

293, 988 

1,381,463 


Foreign 
relainea  for 
consump- 
tion. 


Pounds. 

3,313,063 

3,209,290 

2,496,462 

843, 015 

.5, 666, 556 

3, 506, 420 

3,79.5,373 

3, 208, 160 

5, 293, 620 

7,78.5,080 

8, 3.57, 945 

20,461,023 

28, 530, 992 

43,007,120 

26,676,013 

48, 560, 408 

54, 162, 164 

50,710,403 

62,160,679 

49, 864, 170 

66,017,058 


i  Per  cent 
Total  consump-iof  domes- 
tion,  domestic  I  tic  prod- 
and  foreign.   '       uct 

icxported. 


Pounds. 

953,049.105 
1,011.103,200 

8-50,  700, 551 
l,117.8.-!8,303 

900,037,448 

8.54, 812, 959 
1, 128, 003, 688 

991.129,273 
1,180,34.5,185 
1,002,<I03,210 
1, 103, 924, 275 
1,429,146,210 
1, 699, 8.87, 16.'' 
1,18?,  550. 452 
1, 112,  776, 160 
1,507,991,708 
1,311,352,030 
1,344,133,158 
1,879,156,211 
2,071,221,794 
1,722,496,812 


Percent. 
65.73 
68.47 
67.23 
67.20 
67.52 
68.% 
64.68 
68.70 
65.83 
69.33 
68.15 
67.36 
65.13 
65.99 
71.19 
69.83 
65.00 
70.59 
67.82 
65.12 
65.18 


'  Statistical  abstract  of  the  United  States.    U.  S.  Treasury  Department,  1900. 

2The  "annual  crop  "  represents  the  commercial  movement  for  the  years  ending  August  31,  and  was  furnished  by  the  New  York  Shipping  and  Commercial  List, 
the  New  York  (Jommercial  and  Financial  Chronicle,  and  the  New  Orleans  Cotton  Exchange. 


Inasmuch  as  a  very  large  percentage  of  the  cotton 
supply  is  of  American  origin,  this  statement  of  the 
crop  by  bales  and  pounds,  and  of  its  distribution,  fur- 
nishes a  measure  of  the  annual  increase  of  the  cotton 
manufacturing  industry  in  the  United  States,  as  com- 
pared with  its  increase  in  the  rest  of  the  world.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  interval  of  twenty  years  made 
hardly  anj-  change  in  the  pei'centage  of  the  domestic 
products  retained  and  of  that  which  was  exported,  the 
diilerence  being  merely  an  increase  of  six-tenths  of  1 
per  cent  in  the  amount  consumed  at  home.  The  ratio 
varies,  of  coui'se,  from  j'ear  to  year,  but  on  the  whole 
the  table  shows  that  the  rate  of  increase  of  domestic 


production  is  equal  to  that  of  Great  Britain  and  the 
continent  of  Europe. 

Table  13  exhibits  the  quantity,  cost,  and  cost  per 
pound  of  ''  other  domestic  "  cotton  consumed,  by  states, 
in  1880,  1890,  and  1900.  Inasmuch  as  the  purpose  of 
this  table  is  to  show  the  average  cost  of  cotton,  and 
not  to  compare  quantities  consumed — which  fact  is  suf- 
ficiently brought  out  in  the  preceding  table.s — the 
returns  for  1900  exclude  the  consumption  in  "cotton 
small  wares  ''  establishments,  and  cover  those  of  cotton 
mills  only,  whereas  for  the  two  preceding  decadal 
periods  ' '  cotton  small  wares  "  are  included. 


Table  13.— COTTON  GOODS,  QUANTITY,  AND  COST  OF  DOMESTIC  COTTON,  OTHER  THAN  SEA  ISLAND,  CONSUMED, 

BY  STATES  GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1880  TO  1900. 


190O 

1890 

1880' 

STATES. 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Cost 

per 
pound 
(cents). 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Cost 

per 
pound 
(cents). 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Cost 

per 
pound 
(cents). 

United  States 

New  England  states   

3,516,080 

1,739,714,946 

8116,108,879 

6.67 

2,231,385 

1,103,492,910 

8114,337,802 

10.36 

1,570,344 

760,343,981 

886.945,725 

11.59 

1,719,622 

874,011,257 

68,329,174 

6.67 

1,405,637 

•704,792,220 

74,683,860 

10.60 

1, 129, 498 

541,373,880 

63, 169, 434 

11.67 

156,674 
271,262 

12,493 

1,015,305 

170,614 

93, 374 

79,212,256 
136, 805, 127 
6,410,674 
517,088,846 
86,712,235 
47,782,119 

5,400,379 
9,394,529 
385,461 
33,771,414 
0,074,331 
3,303,060 

6.82 
0.87 
6.01 
6.53 
7.01 
6.91 

132,504 
214,034 
8,954 
765, 773 
186,558 
97,814 

65,717,252 
107,319,124 
4,647,889 
383,539,221 
94,555,788 
49,012.946 

7. 053, 168 

11,203,742 

498, 348 

40,206,887 

10, 446, 155 

5,275,660 

10.73 
10.44 
10.72 
10.48 
11.05 
10.76 

112,381 

157,673 
7,404 
574,867 
167, 480 
109,703 

54,185,061 
76, 386, 499 
3, 662, 0.S8 
273,718,889 
81,137,172 
52,384,171 

6,234,901 
8,629,063 
458, 607 
31,107,1.>1 
10,457,770 
6,281,939 

11.61 

Vermont 

12  87 

Rhode  Island 

12  89 

Connecticut 

11.99 

Uucludes  sai-islHiid,  Egyptian,  and  other  foreign. 


36 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  13.— COTTON  GOODS,  QUANTITY,  AND  COST  OF  DOMESTIC  COTTON,  OTHER  THAN  SEA  ISl.AND,  CONSUMED, 
.  BV  STATES  Gt:OGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1880  TO  1900— Continued. 


1900 

1890 

18S0" 

STATES. 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Cost 

per 

pound 

(cents). 

Bales. 

Pound.s. 

Cost. 

Cost 

per 

pound 

(cents). 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

COiit 

per 
pound 
(cents). 

272,947 

13,5,004,971 

,50. 464, 770 
8,183,469 

35, 083, 214 
1,371,. 563 

39, 901, 955 

707,159,521 

$9,327,774 

S6.91 

251.260 

123,630,916 

812,917,244 

$10.45 

228,729 

109,821,428 

$13,258,526 

$12. 13 

New  York 

99.064 
15.872 
74.382 
2,675 
80,954 

1,477,775 

3. 513. 661 
541.858 

2, 521. 768 
106.3.58 

2. 644. 129 

46,988,926 

6.96 
6.62 
7.19 

7.75 
6.63 

6.64 

78,171 
16,482 
92,705 
8,876 
55,026 

526,856 

39,038,689 
8,231,147 

44,629,588 
4,465,825 

27,265,667 

250,837,646 

4, 192, 105 
905,524 

4,371,693 
475,490 

2,972,432 

24,508,776 

10.74 
11.00 
9.80 
10.65 
10.90 

9.77 

64.614 
21,069 
83,997 
7.512 
51,537 

182,349 

31,6.i6,.594 
9,950.609 

40,311.809 
3, 236, 184 

24.166,232 

84,528.7.57 

3.981.106 
1.319.422 
4,749,428 
427,855 
2,780,715 

8,890,408 

12.  .58 

New  Jersey 

Penn*ivlvania 

13.26 
11.78 

13.22 

Marviaiid 

11.51 

10.52 

Virginia      

38,118 
404, 148 
485, 024 
303,836 
23, 982 
30,234 
134.371 
20.962 
18,045 
19,055 

45,736 

17,832,465 

189,984,759 

229, 899, 760 

145,470,324 

11,971,815 

15, 028,  .584 

67, 987, 299 

10, 363, 4.58 

9, 304, 434 

9, 316, 623 

23,539,197 

1.151,215 

13.604,720 

14,909,520 

9, 665, 464 

770, 363 

982, 146 

4, 206, 721 

623, 576 

566, 517 

.50.5,684 

1,463,005 

6.47 
7.16 
6.49 
6.64 
6.43 
6.54 
6.19 
6.02 
6.09 
5.43 

6.21 

22,731 
114,371 
133,342 
14.5,859 
11,  980 
33,114 
29,962 
17,366 

10,616.206 
53.546.289 
64,000.600 
69. 139. 410 

5.751.305 
15.779.360 
14,726.454 

fe,  449, 834 

1,080,773 
5, 396, 974 
6, 242,  ,598 
6. 663. 560 

551.206 
1.554.851 
1,372,058 

793,600 

10.18 
10.08 
9.75 
9.64 
9.64 
9.85 
9.32 
9.39 

11,461 

27,642 
33,624 
71,389 
4,050 
10,436 
,      14,702 
6,411 
246 
2,388 

29,768 

5,087,519 
11,832,641 
1.5.601.005 
33. 757, 199 
1,882,234 
4,944,279 
7,271,791 
2, 881, 853 
119.986 
1.150.2.50 

15.119.916 

601,796 

1,125,984 

1,723,187 

3,591,554 

188,8.56 

508,305 

729, 202 

301,226 

11,280 

109,018 

1,627,357 

11.83 

9.52 

11.05 

10.64 

Kentucky       

10.03 

10:28 

10.03 

Mississippi 

10.45 
9.40 

All  other  Southern  states^. 
Western  states 

18,131 
47,632 

8,828,188 
24,232,128 

850,156 
2,227,922 

9.63 
9.19  . 

9.48 
10.76 

11,023 

16,306 

6,405 

6,924 

6,974 

5,840,078 
8,240,434 

3, 267, 188 

3, 470.  ass 

3,414.040 

383,556 
798,178 
312, 621 
3.59, 117 
374,450 

6.57 
9.69 
9.57 
10.35 
10.97 
1 

5,323 
11,558 
2,261 
3.173 
7.453 

2,506,182 
6,364,887 
1,099,130 
1,541.797 
3.607.920 

258,198 
679,911 
110.969 
180.072 
398.207 

10.30 

19,884 

10,283,614 

608,822 

0.92 

10.68 

10.10 

4,565 
21,287 

2, 316, 727 
10,938,856 

145,773 
708,410 

6.29 
6.48 

11.68 

All  other  Western  states'. . 

11.04 

1  Includes  sea-island.  Egyptian,  and  other  foreign. 

2  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  1900— .^rliansas.  2:  Louisiana,  2:  West  Virginia,  1.    1890 — Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  Texas,  1.    1880— Florida,  1; 
Arkansas,  2:  Louisiana,  2:  Te.xas,  2. 

3  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  1900 — California,  1:  Colorado,  1;  Illinois,  1:  Missouri,  2:  Nebraska,  1.    1890 — California.  1:  Iowa.  2:  Missouri,  1. 
'  1880— Illinois.  2;  Michigan.  1;  Minnesota.  1:  Utah.  1:  Wisconsin,  1. 


It  will  be  .seen  from  an  examination  of  Table  13  that 
the  average  price  of  cotton  in  1899-1900  wa.s  much 
below  that  in  1890.  and  that  the  decline  wa.s  still  greater 
when  compared  with  1880.  Another  fact  which  ha.s  a 
certain  bearing  upon  the  future  of  cotton  manufactur- 
ing is  that  the  average  price  in  all  parts  of  the  country 
was  fairh'  uniform.  In  1880  the  average  price  in  states 
using  a  considerable  amount  of  cotton  varied  between 
9.52  cents  per  pound  in  North  Carolina  and  13.26 
cents  in  New  Jersey.  In  1890  the  variation  was  be- 
tween 9.32  cents  per  pound  in  Alabama  and  11.05 
cents  in  Rhode  Island.  In  1900  the  variation  in  states 
using  as  many  as  75.000  bales  each  was  from  6.19  cents 
in  Alabama  to  7.16  cents  in  North  Carolina.  Of  course 
no  general  inferences  of  great  value  can  be  drawn  from 
such  facts  further  than  that  the  price  of  cotton  tends, 
under  the  influence  of  a  local  demand  for  the  local  crop 
and  the  steady  cheapening  of  transportation  charges,  to 
equalize  itself  over  the  whole  country.  Differences  in 
the  cjuality  of  cotton  used  in  the  industry  in  the  several 
sections  of  the  country,  and  the  sea.son  at  which  cotton 
is  bought — often  a  mere  matter  of  lucky  or  unlucky 
progno.stication  on  the  part  of  manufacturers — these 
things  have  too  much  influence  in  establishing  average 
prices  to  allow  definite  conclusions  to  be  drawn  from 
tlie  figures.  It  will  be  interesting  to  note  how  far  con- 
sumption is  overtaking  production  in  .some  of  the 
cotton  states. 


PRODCCTIOK 
(NEW   YORK   CHRONICLE). 


CROP,  1899-1900. 


Virginia 

North  Carolina 
South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Alabama 


Bales. 


413, 170 
317,  530 
266,  810 
1,358,586 
202,945 


Pounds. 


206,  312, 308 
155,  .589,  700 
130,285,991 
665, 978, 8.57 
102,006,245 


CONSfMPTIOX 
(CENSUS). 


Bales. 


Pounds. 


38,118 
404, 148 
485,024 
303,836 
134, 371 


17, 832, 465 
189,984.759 
229, 899, 760 
145,470,324 

67,987.299 


It  appears  that  the  crop  of  South  Carolina  needed  to 
be  supplemented  by  almost  exactly  100,000,000  pounds, 
drawn  from  other  states,  to  supply  its  .spinners;  that 
the  North  Carolina  crop  was  deficient  more  than 
34,000,000  pounds;  that  Alabama  made  use  at  home  of 
two-thirds  of  its  crop;  that  the  great  cotton-growing 
state  of  (Georgia  consumed  more  than  one-fifth  of  its 
crop;  and  that  even  Virginia,  which  had  made  less 
progress  in  the  indu.stry  than  the  .states  farther  South, 
consumed  more  than  one-twelfth  of  its  crop.  At  the 
present  rate  of  progress  it  will  not  be  long  before  the 
entire  cotton  supply  of  the  states  on  the  Atlantic  sea- 
board will  be  taken  at  home.  More  than  half  of  it 
was  taken  during  the  census  j'ear  here  reported:  for  of 
the  1.260,000.000  pounds  raised  by  the  5  states  men- 
tioned, their  own  mills  took  651,o0O.0u0  pounds. 


SE.\-ISL.\XD   COTTON. 


The  amount  of  sea-island    cotton  here  reported  as 
consumed  in  the  United  States  is  not  onlv  larger  than 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


37 


the  iimouiit  report(>cl  at  any  previous  eensus.  Imt  it  is 
also  iiirt>er  than  the  eoiniiuTciai  reixirt  for  any  previous 
year.  The  neare.st  approach  to  the  current  tigures  are 
those  for  the  crop  year  lSI16-'.»7  when  the  American 
consumption  is  tixed  at  40.(i7o  bah^s.  Tiie  New  York 
Chronicle  reports  are  taken  for  the  years  iiitorvenino- 
between  1890  and  1900. 

AMERICAN  COXyUMlTlU.N  OF  SKA-ISLAND  COTTON. 


YEARS. 

Bales. 

YEARS. 

Bales. 

21.283 
26,651 
32, 093 
22.911 
24,345 
34,981 

1896 

40.530 

1891          

1897 

1S9S 

40,670 

34, 140 

1893 

'  ]J<99 

38,654 

1894            ; 

I'll'il 

47,207 

1895 

Notwithstandingan  cxteiuiiiig  useof  sea-island  cotton, 
an  increa.se  in  the  crop  has  caused  a  decline  in  the  price, 
which  at  this  census  is  but  14.S  cents  per  pound,  as 
compared  with  25.1  cents  in  1890.  The  use  of  this 
material  is  restricted  to  5  states — Mas.sachusetts,  Rhode 
Island,  Connecticut.  New  York,  and  New  Jersey — al- 
though a  small  quantity  is  rctuined  b^'  one  establish- 
ment in  North  Carolina. 


EGYPTIAN'    COITON". 


The  use  of  Egyptian  cotton  for  the  manufacture  of 
fine  fabrics,  but  more  particularly  as  the  material  for 
knit  underwear,  has  grown  greatly  during  the  last  dec- 
ade. The  amount  imported  into  the  .country  nearly 
doubled  during  the  ten  years  1881-1890,  rising  froni 
4,4-40,996  pounds,  valued  at  $757,852,  to  8,407,1^', 
valued  at  $1,393,071.  But  in  the  ensuing  ten  years  the 
importations  have  still  further  multiplicid'  eightfold. 
The  following  statement  shows  by  fij4ctfl  years  the  im- 
ports of  foreign  cotton,  which  \\g&  nearly  all  Egyptian: 


YEAB^ 

Pounds. 

Value. 

1890-91 .'' 

20,908,817 
28.663,769 
43,367,952 
27,705.949 
49,332,022 
56, 3.50,  .520 
51,898,926 
52,660,363 
50,158,158 
67,398,521 

S2, 825, 004 
3,217,521 
4, 688,  799 
3,003,888 
4, 714, 375 
0,578,212 
5  884  262 

1891-92 ^..,i 

1892-93 .^..: y. 

1893-94 ^-- /. 

1894-95... .X-; /. 

189.5-96.../^ /. 

1896-97  A-. /                           

1897-985; ./. 

5,019,503 
5,013,146 
7,960,945 

1898-iW: J. 

189M900 .jZ 

Total  for  10  ^'ears                    .           

447,444.997 
44, 744.. 500 

4S.  905, 6.55 
4,890,565 

During  the  census  year  1889-9()  there  was  reported 
a  use  of  6,560,951  pounds  of  Egyptian  cotton.  The 
present  returns  account  for  a  consumption  of  55,844,932 
pounds,  which  .should  properly  be  inci'ea.sed  by  an  un- 
known amount  consumed  in  a  few  hosierj*  establish- 
ments which  spin  a  part,  at  least,  of  their  own  yarn. 


Egyptian  cotton  possesses  .some  peculiarities  which 
adapt  it  especially  to  the  uses  to  which  it  is  put.  It  is 
especially  desirat)le,  on  account  of  its  natural  silkiness, 
for  the  process  of  mercerization. 

The  engraved  diagrams  represent,  lor  the  I'nited 
States,  the  cotton  production,  the  amount  exported,  and 
the  amount  of  Northern  and  Southern  consumption. 


Y.MiX    riRCnASEIl. 


.Mthoiigh  tliere  has  lieen  no  perceptible  movement 
during  the  last  ten  years  in  the  direction  of  the  English 
system  of  treating  spinning  and  weaving  as  distinct 
industries — in  the  sense  that  both  processes  are  not 
usually  carried  on  in  one  factory — yet  there  has  l)een  a 
large  proportionate  increase  in  the  number  and  impor- 
tance of  3'arn  mills.  At  the  censu.s  of  1890  a  little  less 
than  one-eighth  of  the  value  of  products  reported  con- 
sisted of  "  \^arns  for  .sale;"  at  this  census  almost  exactly 
one-sixth  of  the  product  is  so  classed.  Although  this 
increase,  as  will  presently  be  noted,  was  demanded 
largely  for  consumption  in  collateral  industries,  there 
was  an  augmented  use  of  cotton  yarn  in  weaving  estab- 
lishments. The  return  of  cotton  3"arn  purchased  for 
use  in  cotton  mills  proper,  in  the  census  year  1899-1900, 
was  83,832,216  pounds,  valued  at  $15,749,536,  as  com- 
pared with  48,779,715  pounds,  valued  at  $10,853,536,  in 
1890,  an  increa.se  in  value  of  about  50  per  cent.  Ncver- 
thele.ss,  the  situation  has  not  changed  substantially  since 
it  was  noted  in  the  report  on  the  P^Ieventh  Census  that  the 
establishments  classed  as  "cotton  goods,"  which  make 
use  of  yarn  not  spun  by  themselves,  are  of  three  clas.ses: 
(lyThose  which  both  spin  and  weave,  but  do  not  produce 
enough  yarn  to  supply  their  looms;  (2)  those  which 
purchase  fine  yarn  to  be  converted  into  sewing  thread; 
and  (3)  those  which  weave  only.  It  is  noted  eis<'wiii're 
that  the  number  of  spindles  in  Pennsylvania  has  dimin- 
ished during  the  last  ten  years.  But  there  are  in  that 
state,  chiefly  in  Philadelphia  and  its  suburbs,  a  great 
many  establishments  which  operate  looms  only  in  the 
production  of  the  highest  class  of  fancy-wo\cii  fabrics. 
They  are  by  far  the  largest  users  of  the  yarn  here  re- 
ported among  materials  consumed.  During  the  census 
year  the  factories  in  Pennsylvania  took  36,304,919 
pounds  of  this  yarn,  valued  at  $6,741,518.  about  43.3 
per  cent  of  all  the  yarn  .so  taken  by  the  mills  of  the 
United  States.  Pennsylvania,  with  but  1.6  per  cent  of 
the  spindles  operated  in  the  Ignited  States,  has  3.5  per 
cent  of  the  looms. 

YARN'S    (ITIIKR    THAN    COTTON. 

The  consumption  of  raw  fibers,  other  than  cotton,  in 
the  cotton  mills  of  the  country  is  quite  unimpoi'tant; 
but  in  .special  mills  there  is  a  large  use  of  yarn  made  of 
such  fibers.  The  facts  relating  thereto  were,  at  the 
census  of  1900,  obtained  in  much  greater  detail  than 


38 


MANUFACTURES. 


heretofore.  The  following  statement  makes  such  com- 
parisons as  are  possible  witii  the  statistics  published  in 
1890: 


1900 

1890 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Silk 

298,716 

208, 403 

1,576,403 

687, 019 

435, 361 

87,064 

21,398 

134,595 

220,  .507 

16,233 

16. 918 

103,157 

81,1.58,321 
625,6,58 
350,  962 
415, 904 
176,467 
21,946 
21,435 
62,838 
17,967 
15,  752 
19, 102 
10, 221 

32,851 
18,583 
17,722 
87,257 
196,874 

$154,336 

83,064 

9,823 

62,514 

Spun  silk 

Worsted 

Mohair 

Jute 

99,938 

8,976 

Tussur 

other  yarn 

224,729 

69,312 

Total 

3,803,774 

2,896,57.<- 

677,954 

509,682 

It  appears  from  the  foregoing  tabular  statement  that 
the  use  of  yarn  made  from  fibers  other  than  cotton  has 
increased  more  than  fivefold  in  the  last  ten  years. 
Such  yarns  are.  of  course,  employed  for  mixing  with 
cotton.  With  the  exception  of  jute,  and  the  inconsid- 
erable amount  reported  indefinitely  as  "  other  yarn," 


they  arc  all  of  higher  cost  than  ordinary  cotton  yarn; 
and  their  use  implies  not  an  adulteration,  but  an 
improvement  of  the  fabrics  into  which  they  enter. 

OTHEK    MATEHlAIJf. 

Raw  cotton  and  yarn  account  for  80  per  cent  of  the 
total  value  of  the  materials  used.  The  rest  is  made  up 
of  oil  and  starch,  mill  supplies,  fuel,  and  freight.  The 
purity  of  the  goods  manufactured  in  American  mills  is 
attested  bj'  the  fact  that  no  place  needs  to  be  reserved 
in  this  branch  of  the  statistics  for  any  articles  used  else- 
where for  "loading"  fabrics.  A  careful  return  was 
required  of  the  quantity  of  starch  consumed — a  neces- 
sity in  dressing  warps — and  it  appears  that  it  consti- 
tutes only  3.7  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  pie(;e  goods  and 
yarn  produced. 

PRODUCTS. 

Tatjle  li  exhibits  the  kinds,  quantity,  and  value  <Jf 
products  of  cotton  mills  iu  1900,  together  with  such 
comparison  with  the  corresponding  figures  for  1890  as 
the  inquiries  at  the  Eleventh  Census  render  possible. 


Table  14.— PRODUCTS  OF  COTTON  MILLS  IN  DET.A.IL:  1890  AND  1900. 


Aggregate  value. 


Woven  goods: 
Total . 


Plain  cloths  for  printing  or  couverting— 
Total . 


1900 


Square  yards. 


Not  liner  than  No.  28  warp 

Finer  than  No.  28  warp 

Brown  or  bleached  sheetings  and  shirtings  . . . 

Ginghams 

Ticks,  denims,  and  stripes 

Drills 

Twills  and  sateens 

Cottonades 

Napped  fabrics 

Fancy  woven  fabrics 

Corduroy,  cotton  velvet,  and  plush 

Duck- 
Total  

Sail 

Other 

Bags  and  bagging 

Mosquito  and  other  netting 

Upholsterv  goods — 

Total  '. 

Tapestries  (piece  goods  and  curtains) . 

Lace  and  lace  curtainw 

Chenille  curtains 

Other,  including  covers 


Yams  for  sale 

Sewing  cotton 

Twine 

Tape  and  webbing 

Batting  and  wadding 

Waste  for  sale 

Other  products  of  cotton  , 
All  other  products , 


4,509,7.50,616 


1,581 

l,0.-)6, 

525, 

1,212, 

278, 

171, 

237, 

235, 

26, 

268, 

237, 


613, 827 
278, 962 
334, 875 
403,048 
392, 708 
800,863 
206, 549 
860,818 
323, 947 
852,  716 
841,603 
%1,.523 


129,234,076 
11,  750, 151 

117,4.83,925 
30, 039, 616 
41,  .S85, 023 

50,  334, 609 

10, 131,. 538 

36, 880, 198 

805. 414 

2,517,459 


Pounds. 


332, 186, 012 
15, 741, 062 
11,132,250 

(») 

10,  .567, 700 
270,100,756 

(■') 


Value. 


$332,806,156 


243,218,155 

57, 780, 940 
35, 616, 575 
22. 1«,  365 
55,513,032 
16,179,200 
16, 446,  633 
11,862.794 
14,301,302 

2,791,431 
18,231,044 
21,066,310 

2, 682, 017 

14,263,008 
2,216,371 

IJ. 046, 637 

2,5.5-l,  192 

8;5,S68 

8, 670,  b.<4 

4,123,600 

3,585.138 

257,840 

703, 806 


Value. 


855, 188, 663 
11,825,218 
1,475,146 
328,801 
864, 016 
5, 5.52, 234 
5,1.54,170 
9,199,753 


1890 


Square  yards.  Value. 


3,004,320,473 
955,294,320  ' 


0) 

962,238,062 

268.996,715 

167,121,426 

2  334,020,091 


<  132,  .524, 706 
127, 373, 179 

55,192,538  i 


h 

1.. 559,436 
642,061 

m 

666, 405 
250.970 


Pounds. 


166,?97,003 
13,8t).<.  309 
8, 533, "30 

(>) 

20,470,556 
141,109,597  I 

m 


8267,981,724 


193,874,275 
43,  5.50, 174 


55, 193, 439 

20,686,390 

16, 987.  .546 

=23,601,239 


no,  574, 924 
12,545,929 

P) 

8,664,39$ 

h 
m 

2,070,239 
354, 987 

1,225,364 
360,  706 
129, 182 


Value. 


833, 247, 596 

11,637.500 

1,364,300 

m 

2, 094, 232 
6, 679, 701 

20,084,120 


1  No  separation  of  print  cloths  was  made  in  1890. 
'  Drills,  twills,  and  sateens. 


»  Not  separately  reported. 
*  Cotton  flannels. 


The  total  value  of  the  products  of  all  the  mills  here 
reported  was  $332,806,156,  of  which  $243,218,155,  or 
73.1  per  cent,  represented  the  value  of  woven  goods; 
$66,188,663,  or  16.6  per  cent,  the  value  of  yarn  spun 


to  be  used  in  other  mills:  $11,825,218,  or  3.6  per  cent, 
the  value  of  sewing  cotton;  and  $22,574,120,  or  6.8  per 
cent,  the  value  of  miscellaneous  and  by-products.  The 
proportion  of  these  several  classes  of  goods  varies  but 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


39 


slightly  from  that  indicated  in  the  census  returns  of 
1890.  There  was  a  decline  of  about  1  per  cent  in  the 
relative  value  of  woven  goods,  an  increase  of  about  4 
per  cent  in  the  relative  value  of  yarn  for  sale,  and  a 
decrease  in  inisoellaneoiis  products.  It  should,  never- 
theless, be  remarked  that  the  more  thorough  chissiti(;a- 
tion  of  products  at  this  census  is  responsible  for  an 
apparent  decline  in  mis<'ellaneous  products  which  is  not 
real.  A  large  part  of  the  '"  all  other  products"  reported 
in  1890  should  undoubtedly  fall  into  some  of  the  newlv 
specified  classes  of  woven  goods.  In  respect  to  the 
cori'(^sj)ondmg  item  in  the  retui'ns  of  the  present  census, 
a  still  more  detailed  cla.ssitication  would  have  removed 
from  "all  othei'  products"  a  large  quantity  and  value 
of  toweling  and  other  woven  products  which  are  not 
properly  classified  as  piece  goods. 

An  inspection  of  the  table  brings  out  the  fact  which 
is  known  to  all  persons  acquainted  with  the  trade  in 
cotton  goods,  namely,  that  the  demand  for  coarse  and 
medium  goods  is  many  times  that  for  fine  fabrics.  The 
largest  single  item  is  that  of  sheetings  and  shirtings, 
1,212,4-03,048  square  yards,  the  whole  of  which  is  made 
from  coarse  or  medium  yarns;  and  the  next  in  point  of 
magnitude  is  the  1,056,278,952  square  3'ards  of  print 
cloths,  not  finer  than  No.  28  warp.  Most  of  the  other 
classes  of  goods  are  wholly  or  mostly  woven  from 
medium  or  coarse  j'arns.  The  exceptions  are  the  finer- 
print  cloths,  525,334,875  yards  (which  is  only  one-ninth 
of  the  gross  yardage  of  woven  goods),  a  certain  portion 
of  the  fancy  woven  fabrics,  a  part  of  the  twills  and 
sateens,  and  a  small  part  of  the  ginghams.  The  fact  that 
there  is  a  great  demand  for  coarse  and  medium  goods 
and  a  limited  market  for  fine  goods  is  pertinent  to  the 
suggestion  that  manufacturers  who  are  unable  to  com- 
pete successfully  in  the  production  of  standard  plain 
cloths  can  find  their  salvation  in  turning  to  the  spinning 
of  fine  yarns  and  the  weaving  of  fine  fabrics. 

In  comparing  the  quantities  and  values  of  goods  in 
1890  and  in  1900  it  will  be  seen  that,  taking  both 
classes  of  print  cloths,  there  was  an  increase  in  quan- 
tity of  more  than  one-half,  and  an  increase  in  value  of 
little  more  than  one-third.  There  was  an  increase  in  the 
quantity  of  standard  sheetings  and  shirtings  of  rather 
more  than  one-fourth,  but  the  aggregate  value  was 
almost  the  same  in  1890  and  1900.  A  small  increase  in 
the  quantity  of  ginghams  is  accompanied  by  a  reduction 
of  more  than  one-fifth  in  the  gross  value.  The  same 
discrepancy  is  to  be  noted  throughout  the  list.  The 
explanation — the  greatly  diminished  cost  of  cotton  dur- 
ing the  census  year  1899-1900 — is  an  interesting  illus- 
tration of  the  untrustworthiness  of  statistics  showing 
the  value  of  products  as  a  test  of  the  condition  of  an 
industry,  or  for  the  purpose  of  comparing  one  industi-y 
with  another. 

An  interesting  feature  of  the  details  respecting  woven 


goods  is  the  great  increase  in  the  quantity  of  articles 
classed  as  upholstery  goods.  In  1890  they  were  re- 
ported as  of  a  total  value  of  $2,070,239;  in  1900  they 
were  returned  at  $8,670,384,  consequently,  the  industry 
has  become  more  than  four  times  as  important  as  it  was 
ten  years  ago.  Practically  the  whole  of  this  industry 
is  located  in  the  city  of  Philadelphia. 

An  important  increase  is  also  to  be  noted  in  the  pro- 
duction of  yarns  for  sale.  The  amount,  in  fact,  has 
almost  exactly  doubled,  and  the  value  is  two-thirds 
greater  than  in  1890.  There  is  a  large  and  growing 
demand  for  yarn  in  knitting  mills  and  in  weaving  es- 
tablishments which  do  no  spinning,  as  well  as  in  mills 
which  spin  too  little  for  their  own  consumption.  Prior 
to  1S90  there  were  few  yarn  mills  in  the  South,  but 
during  the  last  decade  there  have  been  man}-  factories 
of  that  class  put  in  operation.  A  large  part  of  the 
yarn  here  reported  can  be  traced  to  its  ultimate  use. 
Thus,  we  find  that  83,832,216  pounds  were  used  in  other 
mills,  classed  as  "cotton  goods;"  55,217,994  pounds  in 
the  wool  manufactures;  131,820,068  in  the  hosiery  and 
knit  goods  manufactures;  10,860,648  pounds  in  cotton 
small  wares  establishments;  6,444,208  pounds  in  silk 
manufactures;  3,860,235  in  cordage  and  twine;  810.957 
pounds  in  linen  manufactures;  and  301.888  pounds  in 
jute  manufactures.  This  leaves  but  39.037,798  pounds 
not  accounted  for,  but  the  consumption  of  yarn  for 
other  purposes  is  large — for  example,  in  winding  wire 
to  insulate  it  for  electrical  conduction.  The  production 
of  sewing  cotton  has  not  kept  pace,  in  expansion,  with 
most  other  branches  of  the  industry.  It  may  be  that 
the  consolidation  of  the  producing  companies  has  led 
to  a  more  close  approximation  of  demand  and  supply. 
It  will  be  noted  that,  in  common  with  othei'  branches 

I  of  the  cotton  manufacture,  the  average  price  of  sewing 

;  cotton  has  declined. 

MATERIALS   AND   PRODUCTS   TWICE   REPORTED. 

The  gross  value  at  the  factory  of  all  the  products  of 
cotton  mills  is  reported  as  $332,806,156.  This  sum  is 
no  doubt  in  excess  of  the  net  product,  inasmuch  as  in 
many  cases  the  finished  product  of  one  mill  is  the 
material  of  another.  The  excess  is,  nevertheless,  far 
less  proportionately  than  is  the  case  with  many  other 
industries,  for  the  reason  that,  as  is  elsewhere  explained, 
the  great  majority  of  establishments  in  this  branch  of 
textile  manufacturing  cany  through  their  raw  matei'ial, 
cotton,  from  the  })aled  lint  to  the  woven  cloth.  In  the 
aggregate,  however,  there  is  a  large  consumption  of 
partially  manufactured  material  consumed  by  weaving 
establishments,  of  which  some  spin  a  quantity  of  yarn 
insuflicient  to  supply  their  looms,  and  others  do  not  spin 
at  all.  Following  is  a  statement,  as  complete  as  can  be 
made,    of   the   parfialh*  manufactured  materials  con- 


40 


MANUFACTURES. 


sullied  which  must  he  eliminated  from  the  total  of  both 
materials  and  products  to  show  the  facts  ref;;arding  this 
industry: 

ARTICLES.  I      Value. 


Yam: 

Cotton 

Silk 

Spun  silk 

worsted 

Woolen 

Otlur 

Total  of  yarn 

Waste  of  other  mills 

Oil 

Starch 

Chemicals  and  dyestuffs 

Mill  supplies 

Other  materials 

Total 


815,749,536 
1,158.321 
625, 658 
415,904 
176,467 
520,223 


18,646,109 
1,513,281 
4SM,  179 
1,223,102 
5,671,768 
7,664,490 
4.614.468 


39,827,397 


Probably  a  considerable  amount  of  the  chemicals  and 
dyestuffs  reported  consisted  either  of  crude  materials 
of  domestic  origin,  which  do  not  appear  anywhere  as  a 
product  of  manufacture,  or  of  articles  imported  in  a  con- 


dition for  immediate  use;  but  it  is  impossible  to  .sepa- 
rate the  amounts  from  the  tot«l,  or  even  to  make  a 
reasonable  estimate  of  their  value.  The  whole  is  there- 
fore counted  as  a  duplication. 

Deducting  the  total  above  shown  from  the  totJil  value 
of  mat(?rials  used,  the  remainder  is  $133,t;i8,!<!*3.  De- 
ducting it  also  from  the  total  value  of  products,  the 
remainder  is  $292,978,759. 

DYEIN(;    AND    FINISHING. 

The  dyeing  and  finishing  of  cotton  yarn  and  cloth  is 
carried  on  partly  in  cotton  mills  and  partly  in  inde- 
pendent establishments.  The  statistics  of  this  industry 
are  presented  in  the  reports  on  combined  textiles,  and 
on  the  dyeing  and  Hnishing  of  textiles.  Table  15  shows 
the  additional  work  done  upon  the  products  of  mills 
aftei'  spinning  or  weaving  in  both  chis.ses  of  establish- 
ments, and  the  additional  value  reported  to  have  been 
given  to  those  products  by  the  several  processes. 


T.^BLE  15.— DYEING  AND  FINISHING  IN  COTTON  MILLS  AND  IN  INDEPENDENT  ESTABLISHMENTS:  1900. 


TOTAL. 

IN  COTTON 

HIL1£. 

IN  INDEPENDENT  ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Quantity,  pounds. 

Value  added. 

Quantity,  pounds. 

Value  added. 

Quantity,  pounds. 

Value  added. 

Yarn : 

12,780,518 

205,713,712 

3,018,573 

$252,636 

7, 691, 268 

487,946 

12, 780, 518 

54, 103,  .555 

868,851 

S2.52, 636 

i5i,6i6,i57 

2, 149, 722 

85,464,356 
328,330 

2,226,912 

159.616 

Total  yarn  treated 

221,512,803 

8,431,849 

153,759,879 

5,792,686 

67,752,924 

2.639,163 

Square  yards. 

Value  added. 

Square  yards. 

Value  added. 

Square  yards. 

Value  added. 

Oloth: 

Bleached                       

1,162.593,900 

685, 374, 966 

1, 233, 191, 438 

7,973,506 

S7, 623, 875 

8, 923, 925 

21,239,782 

400,118 

197,691,533 
125, 894,  626 
292,741,100 

S932, 452 
1,338,721 
5,242,695 

964,902,367 

559,480,339 

940,450,338 

7,973,506 

86,691,423 

Dved           

7, 585, 204 

15, 997. 087 

400, 118 

3,089,133,809 

38,187,700 

616,327,259 

7,613,868 

2,472,806,560 

30,673,832 

46,619,549 

13,306,554 

33,312.995 

From  Table  15  it  appears  that  $46,619,549  was  added 
to  the  value  of  goods  produced  in  the  cotton  mills  of 
the  country,  by  the  various  processes  of  dyeing  and 
finishing.  Manufacturers  were  not  asked  to  return 
the  amount  of  yarn  bleached,  and  the  full  added  value 
was  therefore  not  ascertained.  Even  without  this 
amount  the  returns  show  that  of  the  yarn  treated 
69.4  per  cent  was  treated  in  the  cotton  mills,  and 
only  30.6  per  cent  in  independent  establishments.  On 
the  other  hand  four-fifths  of  the  cloth  treated  was 
operated  upon  in  independent  establishments.  Of  the 
4,509,750,616  square  yards  of  woven  goods  reported  in 
Table  14,  1,233,191,438  square  yards  were  printed; 
685,374,965     square    yards   were    dyed;     278,392,708 


square  yards  were  ginghams,  and  171,800,853  .square 
yards  ticks,  denims,  and  .stripes,  containing  dyed  3-arns — 
a  total  of  2,368,759,964  square  yards.  This  indicates 
that  .something  more  than  one-half  of  the  woven  goods 
produced  in  cotton  mills  is  colored  by  printing  or  dye- 
ing before  entering  into  consumption.  The  figures 
relating  to  bleaching  are  to  be  considered  with  full 
allowance  for  the  fact  that  bleaching  is  a  necessary  pre- 
liminary to  printing  and  other  proces.ses,  .so  that  the 
same  material  is  twice  reported.  Many  manufacturers 
in  making  returns  of  dyeing  or  printing  did  not  report 
separately  the  amounts  bleached,  but  treated  the  whole 
process  as  one. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


41 


FINENESS   OF   GOODS — AVERAGE    NUMBER    OF    YARN. 

The  iiKithod  adopted  for  a.scertaining  the  average 
number  of  yarn  spun  is  the  same  as  that  fir.st  introduced 
at  the  KUnenlh  Census.  The  method  in  use  prior  to 
that  time  was  liased  upon  tlu^  number  of  s[)iiidles  pro- 
dueinj;-  yarn  of  a  ))arti<iilar  fineness.  For  example,  the 
avei'aire  number  of  yarn  produced  liy  two  mills,  each 
havinjj'  Id, (>()(»  spindles,  the  one  spinning  No.  ^O's  and 
the  other  spinning  No.  30's  would  be  No.  25.  This 
method  was  fatilty.  iniismueh  as  it  assumed  the  e(|ual 
speed  and  eiticiency  of  all  spindles,  and  also  because  it 
took  no  account  of  the  fact  that  spindles  of  equal  effi- 
ciency making  eoar.seyarns  spin  a  greater  weight  of  yarn 
than  those  making  tine  yarn,  '['he  new  mode  of  calcu- 
lating it  is  based  upon  the  quantity  of  yarn  produced. 
The  average  of  5.000  pounds  of  No.  20  and  7.000  pounds 
of  No.  36  would  1)6  No.  2U.3:53.  There  would  be  100,000 
hanks  (of  84-0  yard.s)  of  No.  20  and  352,000  hanks  of  No. 
Sfi,  and  the  average  is  ascertained  by  dividing  the  num- 
ber of  hanks  by  the  numl)er  of  pounds.  Of  course, 
this  method  does  not  give  an  absolutely  accurate  result, 
inasmuch  as  manufacturers  can  not  in  all  cases  estimate 
exactly  what  is  the  average  number  of  their  own  pro- 
duction, particularly  if  they  make  j^arn  of  many  degrees 
of  finene.ss;  but  it  is  more  nearly  correct  than  the  foi'- 
mer  system  and  is  the  most  satisfactory  method  yet 
devised.  To  illustrate  the  inaccuracy  that  arises  in  the 
use  of  the  present  method,  there  is  a  mill  in  the  state 
of  New  York  which  has  a  majority  of  its  spindles  pro- 
ducing yarn  liner  than  No.  40;  but  as  it  operates  also  a 
comparatively  small  number  of  mules  making  coarse 
hosiery  yarn,  it  reports  its  average  number  as  IS. 

It  is,  and  probably  it  always  will  be,  true  that  an 
overwhelmingly  great  proportion  of  the  cotton  goods 
demanded  for  use  even  in  wealthy  communities  is 
made  of  medium  or  coarse  yarns.  It  will  be  seen  from 
the  table  showing  the  gross  spinning  of  fine,  medium, 
and  coai'se  yarns,  that  not  much  morp  than  one-twentieth 
of  the  yarn  spun  is  classed  as  fine.  Nevertheless  there 
is  a  constant  tendency  toward  finer  spinning.  The  de- 
mand for  cloth  classed  .strictly  as  fine  increases  steadily, 
and,  among  the  users  of  the  heavy  goods  which  repre- 
sent the  spinning  and  weaving  industries  in  pioneer 
times,  the  desire  grows  for  the  standard  sheetings  and 
shirtings  made  of  yarn  ranging  from  No.  25  to  No.  40. 
Yet  the  perversity  of  averages  conceals  these  tendencies 
to  a  great  extent,  as  will  become  evident  upon  an  ex- 
amination of  the  following  statement,  showing  by  states 
and  geographic  divisions  the  average  number  of  ^-arn 
spun  in  ll'OOand  ISHO: 


STATES. 

AVERAGE  Sl'MBER 
OF   YAR.N, 

1900 

1800 

United  States 

21.573 

22  93 

New  EiiKlaiKl  states 

2.5.560 

26.20 

Maine 

22.937 
19. 174 
27.894 
2.5.097 
36.  ,541 
30.373 

19.176 

22  66 

V^TIIHlIlt 

25  95 

M.MvvjU'hii'.ctts : 

K1m.(]i-  IslMlllI 

26.75 
34  73 

29. 91 

Middle  state.'' 

•>0  45 

83.457 
35.370 
16.489 
23.622 
9.367 

17.046 

27.69 

New  .1  ersey 

37  14 

16.65 

Delaware 

22  33 

9.35 

14.76 

Virginia 

1.5.287 
18.830 
19.040 
14.371 
13.722 
12.722 
14.437 
14.344 

5. 878 
1.5.876 

9.580 

19.418 

17  04 

North  Carolina 

15  30 

15. 13 

Georgia 

14  35 

Tennessee 

12  22 

Alabama 

12  67 

14  58 

Arkansa.f 

Texas 

Indiana 

18.262 
22.000 
20. 879 
27.000 
15. 426 
20.000 
9.000 

14  C)6 

Illinois 

Wisconsin 

17.20 
20.37 

Misfsouri 

California 

From  the  foregoing  figures  it  would  be  natural  to 
conclude  that  the  tendency  has  been  toward  coarser 
spinning.  But  it  will  be  seen  that  the  average  number 
of  yarn  in  the  Southern  states,  where  the  largest 
increase  has  taken  place,  has  advanced  two  and  a 
quarter  numbers.  Yet  because  the  average  in  that 
.section  is  still  eight  and  a  half  numbers  below  the  aver- 
age in  New  England,  the  general  average  of  the  whole 
country  is  reduced.  In  New  England  there  was  a  large 
inci-ease  in  the  spinning  of  coarse,  medium,  and  fine 
yarns.  The  proportional  increa.se  of  tine  spinning  was 
59. 3  per  cent  more  than  the  increase  of  coarse,  and  94. 7 
per  cent  more  than  the  increase  of  medium  goods:  but 
since  the  actual  increase  in  pounds  of  fine  yarn  spun 
was  less  than  the  increase  in  the  two  other  classes,  the 
general  average  is  slightly  reduced.  Talde  16,  .showing 
the  aggregate  amount  of  yarn  spun,  by  states  geograph- 
ically arranged,  divided  into  coarse,  medium,  and  fine, 
in  li»(»0  and  1890,  gives  a  much  better  idea  of  the  situa- 
tion than  can  be  obtained  from  an}-  calculation  of  the 
average  number. 


42  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  16.— YARNS  SPUN,  CLASSIFIED  BY  GRADE,  BY  STATES  GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:   1890  AND  1900. 


1900 

1890 

STATES. 

Number  of 

hanlcs  of  yarn 

spun. 

Total. 

No.  20  and 
under. 

No.  21  to 
No.  40. 

No.  41  and 
over. 

Total. 

No.  20  and 
under. 

No.  21  to 
No.  40. 

No.  41  and 
over. 

United  States 

31, 660,  M2, 486 

Pounds. 
1,467,665,971 

Pounds. 
850,203,953 

Pounde. 
540,166,147 

Pounds. 
77,195,871 

Pounds. 
901,842,238 

Pounds. 
'    480,273,239 

Pounds. 
886,723,173 

Pounds. 
34,845,826 

New  England  states 

19, 067, 774, 000 

745,990,534 

304,842,149 

369,423,518 

71, 724.  867 

574,084,144 

207, 672, 353 

331,611,339 

34,800,452 

Maine 

1,536,861,865 
2,089,377,338 
1.51.. >49. 744 
11.106  61.5,977 
2, 822, 384, 752 
1,360,984,324 

2,260,033,536 

67, 003, 387 
108,968,243 
5,432,983 
442,  .538,758 
77,238,360 
44,808,803 

117,  .8.56. 490 

40,  .530, 149 
79,300,869 
1,. 5-2.5, 033 
164, 190, 3,52 
3,661,667 
15,  634, 079 

86,166,567 

23,608,965 
29,667,374 
3,907,950 
235,617,217 
.57, 341,. 561 
19,280,451 

27,105,119 

2,864,273 

54, 963, 253 
91, 167, 408 
3, 7.52.  .391 
308,797,274 
7.5,037,935 
40,365,883 

103,035,788 

26,  .577, 650 
51,984,891 

1,243,  .508 
103. 234,  .514 

8,280,776 
13,351,014 

62,850,759 

28, 385, 603 
36, 182,  517 
2,  .508, 883 
186,750,241 
55,640,821 
22,143,274 

40,139,655 

42,731,189 
16, 235, 132 
9,894,273 

4,584,804 

18, 812, 519 

Rhode  Isltmd 

11,116,338 
4, 871, 595 

Middle  states             

45,374 

New  York 

985,  .573, 613 
432,593,550 
535,394,994 
24,968,690 
281,502,689 

9, 998, 763, 591 

42, 014,  730 
12,230,347 
32,468,390 
1,061,474 
30,081,549 

.586,546,002 

25,241,091 
5, 366, 044 
25,344,251 
133,632 
30,081.549 

445, 967, 812 

16,443,639 

2, 979. 499 

6,751,139 

927,842 

330, 000 

3,884,804 

370,000 

32, 083, 114 
6, 133, 639 

40,238,918 
3,828,238 

20,751,879 

209,987,348 

6,5.5,3,540 

;        1, 456, 672 

32,215,744 

2,325,960 
20,298,843 

197,443,432 

25,  .529,  .574 

4,631,593 

8,023,174 

1,502,278 

453,036 

12,543,916 

45,374 

139,691,990 

886,200 

230, 991, 103 

2  945,812,639 

3,730,694,191 

1, 680, 9.S5, 417 

124,480,316 

141,  .889, 665 

835,446,399 

113,4.56,683 

5,251,558 

lll,ia5,000 

78,650,620 

15, 110, 233 

156  435,539 

195, 930, 440 

116,967,671 

9, 071, 044 

ll.mi.bl>' 

57,  ,866,  762 

7,909,625 

893, 279 

6,998,216 

8, 210, 626 

13,457,870 

99,021,341 

132,903,687 

108, 276, 364 

5,818,514 

11, 1.52,  .567 

51,325,723 

7,909,625 

893,279 

6,998,216 

8,210,626 

1,652,363 

56, 527, 998 

63,026,7.53 

8, 691, 307 

3, 252,  .530 

7,719,379 
45,048,638 
54,520,363 
58,832,378 

4,248,115 
12,310,343 
11,699,255 

6,966,959 

7,719,379 
41,972,080 
53,275,593 
52,611,129 

2,246,776 
12. 310,  343 

886,200 


3,076,558 
1,244,770 
6,221,249 
2,001,339 

Tennessee 

6,5ii,639 

11, 699, 255 
6,966,959 

8,641,918 
14,734,958 

8,641,918 
12,306,695 

333,471,359 

17,172,945 

13,227,425 

3,945,520 

2,428,263 

158,26.5,234 
48,345,506 
36,  .855, 304 
20, 339, 500 
26,233,875 
42,081,940 
1,350,000 

8,666,072 
2, 197. 523 
1,76.5,128 
1,318,500 

971,  625 
2,104,097 

150,000 

8, 666, 072 

6,649,187 
2,374,131 
2,682,606 

6,649,187 

950,000 

1, 678, 474 

Illinois. 

2, 197,523 
776,372 

1,424,131 
1,004,132 

988,  756 
1,318,500 

971,625 

2,104,097 
150,000 

, 

•     3,029,034 

3,029,034 

POWER. 

The  return.s  of  power  ased  in  the  cotton-manufactur- 
ing industry  present  the  extraordinary  fact,  that  of  the 
806.121  horsepower  employed  in  all  the  e.stabli.shment.s 
in  the  United  State.s.  onl}-  12,602  horsepower,  less 
than  1.6  per  cent,  was  hired.  It  should  be  explained 
that  a  large  number  of  corporations  whose  factories 
are  operated  by  waterpower  do  not  own  the  water 
privileges.  That  is  to  say,  the}-  pay  in  one  form  or 
another  for  the  water  which  turns  their  wheels.  This 
expense  is  not  cla.ssed  as  rent,  but  as  a  part  of  the 
materials  used.  It  is  evidenth'  an  expense  of  the  same 
sort  as  the  fuel  which  is  consumed  in  supplying  steam  ■ 
power. 

Although  the  statistics  are  lacking  for  a  comparison 
of  the  kinds  of  power  in  use  during  the  year  1900  with 
tho.se  employed  in  previous  census  years,  yet  it  may  be 
surmised  with  a  degree  of  confidence  that  the  present 
returns  signalize  a  culmination  of  the  use  of  .steam  as 
compared  with  waterpower.  In  the  early  days  of  the 
industry  cotton  factories  were  usually,  one  might 
almost  sa^'  invariably,  located  upon  waterpower.  So 
univer,sally  was  this  the  practice  that  cotton  mills  which 
were  erected  in  coast  towns,  where  coal  could  be  pro- 
cured at  a  low  transportation  cost  for  steam  making. 


were  distinguished  in  the  titles  of  the  corporations  as 
"steam"  mills.  But  the  inadequacy  of  waterpower 
as  the  motive  force  for  gi'eat  groups  of  factories,  and 
the  failures  and  stoppages  caused  by  drought,  flood 
and  ice,  led  to  the  addition  of  steam  engines  for  a  sup- 
plementaiT  power,  and  to  the  erection  of  mills  without 
reference  to  waterpower.  This  change  has  gone  to 
such  an  extent  that  steam  power  used  in  the  factories 
is  more  than  double  the  waterpower  emploj-ed.  The 
numbers  representing  the  two  kinds  of  power  are 
.527,186  horsepower  for  steam,  and  250,790  horsepower 
for  water.  There  are,  nevertheless,  some  reasons  for 
believing  that  there  niaj'  be  a  reaction,  the  importance 
of  which  can  not  be  predicted.  The  development  of 
the  use  of  electricity  carries  with  it  the  possibility  of  a 
cheap  transmission  of  power  to  a  distance  without 
serious  loss.  In  this  way  it  becomes  feasible  to  make 
available  certain  waterpowers  which,  on  account  of 
their  location  or  the  physical  characteristics  of  the 
country,  have  heretofore  been  u.seless.  The  growing 
importance  of  electricity  as  a  motor  appears  in  the 
current  returns  which  show  a  total  of  over  18,000 
electric  horsepower,  owned  and  rented.  The  applica- 
tion of  electricity  direct  to  the  machinery,  without  the 
use  of  shafting  and  belting,  is  comparative!}-  new,  but 
it  is  certain  that  it  has  a  ereat  future,  and  that  here- 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


43 


aftci-  inanufactui'crs  will  find  in  the  system  fjreat  bene- 
fits, of  which  a  saving  in  expense  will  not  be  the  least. 

MACHINERY. 

Ever  since  the  first  application  of  mechanical  power 
to  the  movement  of  the  spindle  there  has  been  a  constant 
improvement  in  the  machinery  employed  in  the  spinning 
and  weaving  of  cotton.  The  foundation  of  the  cotton 
manufacture  was  laid  in  the  almost  sinudtaneous  inven- 
tion of  the  steam  engine  and  the  eai'liest  form  of  spin- 
ning machinei-y.  Hargreaves'sspinning  jenny,  invented 
in  17(34  and  patented  in  1770;  Arkwright's  water  frame, 
the  invention  of  drawing  by  rollers,  brought  out  in  17ti9 
and  improved  in  1775;  Crompton's  mule — so  called 
because  it  combined  the  principles  of  Hargreaves's  and 
Arkwright's  inventions — j)atonted  in  1779;  these  ante- 
dated but  a  short  time  the  introduction  of  Watts's  steam 
engine,  which  was  invented  in  1769,  became  a  practica- 
ble power  agent  by  improvements  made  in  1781.  and 
was  first  applied  to  the  production  of  cotton  yarn  in  178.5. 
All  of  Arkwright's  patents,  which  included  improve- 
ments in  carding,  drawing,  roving,  and  spinning,  were 
thrown  open  in  1785.  In  the  same  year  Dr.  Cartwright 
invented  the  power  loom,  and  thus  completed  the  group 
of  fundamental  inventions  of  which  all  modern  spinning 
and  weaving  machinery  is  but  an  adaptation  and  ii  series 
of  improvements. 

But  there  has  been  another  series  of  inventions  di- 
rected to  the  economical,  rapid,  and  thorough  prepara- 
tion of  the  cotton  for  spinning,  as  well  as  a  constant 
succession  of  improvements  in  the  final  processes  of 
the  manufacture,  which  have  multiplied  a  hundred  if 
not  a  thousand  fold  the  efficiency  of  the  industry.  In 
the  year  1800  the  scutching  machine  was  introduced, 
the  invention  of  Snodgrass,  of  Cilasgow.  The  lap 
machine  was  introduced  in  nearl}'  the  form  it  has  to- 
day by  Mr.  John  Ci'ighton.  of  Manchester,  in  1814. 
Mr.  Crighton  also  eflected  an  important  reform  in  the 
processes  of  opening  and  scutching.  The  invention  of 
the  carding  machine  and  its  gradual  evolution  into  the 
almost  perfect  mechanism  of  to-da\',  cover  nearly  the 
whole  of  the  Nineteenth  centui-y.  The  first  important 
improvement  was  made  in  1823.  The  principle  of  the 
revolving  fiat  was  devised  in  1834.  After  being 
neglected  for  more  than  twenty  years  it  was  taken  up 
and  improved  in  1857,  and  about  1S8()  became,  in  the 
hands  of  the  Messrs.  Ashworth,  substantially  the  card- 
ing machine  of  the  present  day.  The  combing  machine 
was  first  exhibited  by  its  inventor,  Mr.  Josue  Heil- 
mann,  of  Mulhouse,  at  the  Paris  Exposition,  in  1851. 

The  mule,  as  invented  by  Crompton,  was  a  semi- 
manual  machine.  Richard  Roberts,  in  1835,  trans- 
formed it  into  the  purely  automatic  machine  which  we 
see  at  this  time,  so  exact  and  precise  in  its  several  suc- 
cessive motions  that  it  seems  endowed  with  almost 
human  intelligence.  Since  Roberts's  time  the  histor\' 
of  the  mule  has  been  one  of  development  in  detail  and 


of  better  construction,  but  the  changes  of  this  sort  have 
made  it  vastly  more  useful  in  speed,  in  precision  of 
action,  and  in  the  quality  of  the  yarn  which  it  makes. 
The  iinijrovement  in  fi'sune  spinning  has  been  much 
grt'ater  than  in  the  mule.  The  invention  of  the  ring 
and  the  traveler  in  the  third  decade  of  the  last  century 
opened  a  wide  field  to  the  genius  of  mechanicians.  Im- 
provement followed  improvement  in  rapid  succession 
until  the  liabbeth  spindle  reached  what  .seems  to  be  the 
practical  limit  of  speed,  and,  therc^fore,  of  the  jjroduction 
of  yarn,  at  about  10,000  turns  a  minute.  The  final  im- 
provements, which  made  ring  spinning  more  economical 
and  profitable  than  nuile  spinning,  for  all  except  certain 
special  purposes,  in  mills  wherein  both  spinning  and 
weaving  are  carried  on,  were  accomplished  in  the  closing 
decades  of  the  century. 

The  most  important  advance  in  machinery  during  the 
past  decade  has  been  in  the  loom.  Glancing  backward 
we  find  that  Cartwright  invented  the  power  loom  in 
1785,  as  has  been  already  noted.  The  policy  of  the 
British  Government  at  that  time  and  for  many  years 
afterwards  forliade  the  exportation  of  machinery  and  of 
patterns  for  making  it.  Accordinglj-,  it  was  neces.sary 
to  reinvent  the  power  loom  for  use  in  the  manufacture 
of  cotton  in  this  country.  The  feat  was  successfully 
accomplished  by  Francis  Cabot  Low-ell,  in  1814.  Numer- 
ous impi'ovements  wei'e  made  during  the  ensuing  three- 
quarters  of  a  century.  The  etiorts  of  inventors  are 
always  directed  toward  the  discovert'  of  devices  by 
which  the  speed  of  machinery  may  be  increased,  of  auto- 
matic motions  which  will  diminish  the  amount  of  care 
and  attention  to  be  bestowed  b}'  operatives  upon  the 
machines,  and  to  a  reduction  of  the  time  during  which 
the  machines  must  be  stopped,  either  after  a  breakage 
of  the  j-arn  or  to  replace  exhausted  shuttles.  Stop- 
motions  have  been  devised  for  manj'  of  the  machines  used 
in  cotton  mills,  arrangements  by  which  the  breaking  of  a 
single  thread  at  any  point  causes  the  whole  machine  to 
stop  instantly. 

The  proldem  of  the  loom,  so  far  as  necessary  stop- 
pages are  concerned,  has  been  most  diflicult.  For  spin- 
ning, the  process,  whether  on  the  mule  or  on  the  frame, 
may  be  said  to  be  almost  continuous,  the  time  required  for 
dotting  forming  but  an  inapprecial)le  part  of  the  whole. 
But  the  capacitj'  of  the  shuttle  is  limited.  At  the  speed 
at  which  modern  looms  are  run  the  yarn  in  the  shuttle 
box  is  exhausted  in  about  eight  minutes,  in  the  manu- 
facture of  medium  shirtings  or  print  cloths.  If  the 
yarn  is  coarser  and  the  speed  the  same,  the  shuttle  needs 
to  be  changed  still  oftener.  Inasmuch  as  the  cost  of 
labor  in  weaving  is  fully  one-half  the  labor  cost  of  con- 
verting a  pound  of  raw  cotton  into  cloth,  the  importance 
of  reducing  or  of  doing  away  altogether  with  the  time 
occupied  in  changing  shuttles  is  too  evident  to  be  more 
than  stated.  Attention  was  long  ago  turned  in  this  di- 
rection. In  1840  an  English  patent  was  taken  out  for 
a  shuttle-changing  device  when  the  weft  was  broken  or 


44 


MANUFACTURES. 


exhausted;  but  it  seems  not  to  have  been  successful, 
otherwise  it  would  have  been  adopted  by  manufacturers 
throughout  the  world.  Many  inventors  have  exercised 
their  injionuity  to  overcome  the  mechanical  difficulty. 
Within  the  last  decade  the  principle  so  long  sought  after 
has  been  found,  but  it  consists  not  in  a  changing  of  the 
shuttle  while  the  loom  is  in  motion,  l>ut  in  giving  the 
shuttle  a  fresh  supply  of  weft  without  removing  it 
from  the  loom.  The  success  of  the  Northrop  loom  has 
stimulated  inventors  to  accomplish  ciiually  brilliant  re- 
sults by  new  devices  of  the  shuttle-changing  variety. 
Although  there  are  some  machines  which  effect  the 
change  with  promising  efficiency,  they  are  yet  in  the 
experimental  stage. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  Northrop  loom,  which  was  first 
brought  to  the  attention  of  manufacturers  in  April. 
1895,  has  such  self-evident  advantages  for  the  weaving 
of  plain  cloth  that  in  less  than  five  ^^ears,  at  the  end  of 
the  year  1899.  the  output  was  more  than  4'2. .')()<•  looms. 
This  loom  has  two  fundamental  improvements — the 
filling-changing  mechanisms  and  the  warp-stopping  de- 
vices. By  the  first,  the  time  of  stoppage  on  account  of 
exhausted  shuttles  is  wholly  saved.  By  the  second,  the 
machine  is  stopped  instantly  upon  the  breaking  of  a 
single  warp  thread.  In  combination  they  add  greatly 
to  the  jiroductive  capacity  of  the  weaver.  A  good 
weaver,  operating  plain  narrow  looms,  has  a  capacit}* 
of  8  looms.  His  time  is  chiefly  occupied  by  replacing 
emptj'  shuttles  and  in  mending  broken  warp  threads. 
The  first  is  the  more  important,  inasmuch  as  the  failure 
to  repair  warp  breaks  merely  causes  an  imperfection  in 
the  weaving,  which  is  tolerated  in  many  classes  of  goods; 
whereas  an  empty  shuttle  means  a  stoppage  of  the  loom. 
The  filling-changing  mechanism  reduces  to  a  small  frac- 
tion the  time  needed  to  suppl}'  looms  with  weft,  and 
thus  leaves  most  of  the  weaver's  time  free  to  repair  warp 
breaks.  His  capacity  is  therefore  increased  to  the  num- 
ber of  looms  for  which  he  can  perform  this  service, 
practicallj',  to  double  or  more  than  double  the  number 
of  plain  looms  which  he  can  tend.  The  saving  which  is 
effected  is  illustrated  by  the  fact  that  in  some  cases  the 
weaver,  6n  leaving  his  work  for  dinner,  has  left  all  his 
looms  running,  the  filling  magazines  all  full,  and  on  re- 
turning at  the  expiration  of  the  dinner  interval  has  found 
some  of  them  still  running.  All  those  in  which  there 
had  been  a  breakage  of  the  warp  had  of  course  stopped, 
and  therefore  no  imperfect  cloth  had  l)een  woven. 

The  stimulation  to  the  production  of  a  rival  to  this 
invention  has  already  been  mentioned.  But  the  intro- 
duction of  the  Northrop  loom  has  had  an  important 
reflex  influence  upon  other  pai'ts  of  the  cotton -manufac- 


turing machinery.  For  example,  an  appreciable  gain 
of  time  can  be  made  if  the  freciuenc}-  of  stoppages  for 
changing  the  shuttle  can  be  diminished.  Heretofore 
mule  filling  has  not  ])een  adapted  to  the  Nortiirop  loom, 
where  ii  largt;  ring  bobbin  can  be  more  I'eadily  iiandled 
than  a  mule  cop  on  the  spindle.  Moreovei',  there  has 
been  in  the  past  difficulty  in  making  muh'  cojjsof  large 
size  that  would  t)e  proof  against  breaking  in  the  shuttle, 
or  in  being  handled  alxjut  the  mill.  The  waste  /'rom 
mule  filling  was  in  many  cases  so  great  as  to  l)e  jirohib- 
itive.  \Veavers  preferred  to  use  small  cops  rather  than 
take  the  risks  of  large  cops  falling  apart  in  weaving. 
But  the  problem  of  spiiuiing  large,  well-wound  nuile 
cops  of  filling  yarn  has  now  been  solved,  and  the  neces- 
sary devices  can  be  applied  to  old  mules.  A  w-eaver 
tending  8  looms,  and  changing  shuttles  that  contiiin 
yarn  enough  to  supply  the  loom  eight  minutes,  has  to 
make  an  average  change  of  one  a  minute.  The  larger 
mule  cops  contain  enough  No.  36  yarn  to  run  twelve 
minutes,  and  of  course  his  loom  capacity  is  considerably 
increased.  ^lany  manufacturers  prefer  mule  filling  for 
certain  fabrics  o!i  account  of  the  soft  appearance  and 
"feel"  of  the  cloth,  as  compared  with  ring-filling  cloth, 
and  the  new  mills  which  have  been  built  to  make  the 
higher  grades  of  fine  cloths  are  still  fully  equipped  with 
mules  to  make  filling. 

If  the  mule  is  being  adapted  to  produce  yarns  usable 
where  frame-spun  yarn  has  heretofore  had  full  sway, 
there  has  been  a  promising  effort  to  adapt  the  ring- 
traveler  principle  to  the  production  of  a  slack-twisted 
yarn,  which  could  formerly  be  made  only  on  the  mule, 
at  the  same  time  winding  it  on  the  bare  s-pindle,  in  cop 
form.  This  improvement  is  as  yet  only  in  the  experi- 
mental stage.  At  present  there  seems  to  be  a  difficulty 
in  the  way  of  making  use  of  the  device  for  the  produc- 
tion of  knitting  yarns,  which  constitutes  the  largest 
demand  for  yarns  not  immediately  used  bj"  the  spinner. 
Soft-twisted  yarns  for  knitting  purposes  should  be  in 
large  cops  to  avoid  frequent  piecings  in  the  knitting 
machine.  This  does  not  now  seem  practicable,  for  the 
greater  diameter  of  ring  necessary  would  bi-ing  too 
great  a  strain  upon  the  yarn.  No  doubt  in  time  this 
difficulty  can  be  overcome,  as  many  difficulties  greater 
than  this  have  been  surmounted.  The  attempt  to  solve 
the  problem  is  cited  as  evidence  that  the  age  of  inven- 
tion in  the  marvelously  developed  cotton-manufacturing 
industry  has  not  yet  closed. 

THE     PROGRESS    OF    THE     INDUSTRY     AS     INDICATED    BY 
THE    NUMBER    OF    SPINDLES. 

Table  17  shows  the  number  of  cotton  spindles  used  in 
textile  manufactures,  by  states,  1890  and  1900. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURKS. 


45 


Table  17.— NUMBER  OF  ACTIVE  COTTON   SPINDLES  IN  THE  TEXTILE  INDUSTRY,  BY  STATES    GE0GRAPHIC.4.LLY 

ARRANGED:  1890  AND  1900, 


1900 

1890 

STATES. 

Total. 

In  cotton 
mills. 

In  hosiery 

and  knit 

goods 

mills. 

In  worsted 
mills. 

In  woolen 

and  carpet 

mills. 

In  cotton 

small 
wares,  and 

cordage 
and  twine 

factories. 

Total. 

United  States 

19,472,232 

19,008,352 

206,698 

95,3.56 

59,460 

102,366 

14,384,180 

13,171,377 

12,850,987 

137,376 

95,356 

27,344 

60,314 

10,934,297 

Mtiiiie 

848,  377 
1,249,S7.T 

loo,  028 
7,932,883 
1,976,198 
1,064,016 

1,721,347 

841,. 521 
1,243,  .555 

100,028 
7,784,687 
1,880,622 
1,000,574 

1,647,251 

3,5» 

3,272 

892, 762 

New  Hampshire.     .     .                     ...... 

6,320 

1,198,013 

71,591 

5,872,852 

1,969,294 

939  155 

91,356 

50, 080               3, 760 

45,276          moon 

3,000 
40,300 
13, 742 

1,200 

39,700 
52,712 

10,000 

20,184 

- 

1,716,019 

764,492 
431,730 
336,  .i09 
34,  .5.52 
151,064 

4, 3.54, 034 

720,  268 
431,730 
306, 637 
34,. 552 
154,064 

4,298,188 

38,404 

5,820 

629  324 

New  .lorsey 

374,442 

Pennsvlvania 

14,308 

14,364 

1,200 

496, 551 
63, 916 
161,786 

Maryland            

16,610 

5,000 

34,236 

1,563,598 

Virginia  

132,  707 
1,137,328 
1,436,%9 

832,321 
66,633 

130,296 

419,  968 
78,146 
13,060 
57,850 
48,756 

225,474 

126,827 

1,133,432 

1,431,349 

815, 545 

66, 633 

123,8% 

411,328 

7.5, 122 

9,700 

55,600 

iH, 756 

211,926 

5,880 
2,860 
5,620 

94.294 
ai4,606 
332  784 

1,036 

South  Carolina 

16,  776 

446, 4.52 

Kentucky 

42  942 

Tenneiisee 

5,000 

1,400 
8,640 
3,024 
3,360 

98, 324 

79  362 

67,004 

6  780 

2,250 

48,050 

Texas'. 

16  000 

6, 932 

0,616 

170, 266 

Ohio 

4,600 
108,988 
31,488 
21,496 

4,600 

16,580 

102,488 
31,488 
21,496 

6,500 

80,604 

21,800 

32,592 

6,000 

13.6.54 
15,488 
432 
17,312 
2,016 
10,000 

is,  654 
15,488 

6,690 

Utah                                                                                   ..             

432 



17,312 

2,016 

10,666 

6,000 

The  number  of  working  .spindles  i.s  the  universal!}- 
accepted  measure  of  the  capacity  of  cotton  mills,  and  of 
the  growth  of  the  industry  in  any  particular  state  or 
region.  It  is  admittedly  an  imperfect  measure;  but  it 
is  not  only  more  accurate  than  wmild  be  any  expression 
in  terms  of  capital  employed,  luuubfr  of  hands  or  their 
wages,  quantity  or  value  of  materials  consumed,  or 
weight  or  value  of  product,  but  it  is  also  a  better  gauge 
than  is  available  for  most  industries.  The  present  mill 
of  50,000  spindles  is  a  vastly  larger  factor}^  in  all  re- 
spects than  was  the  mill  of  .50,000  spindles  in  1850, and 
the  19,00(>.0<i<>  sijindles  of  the  year  1!»00  undoubtedly 
produce  five  times  as  great  an  amount  of  goods  as  the 
7.<K)i».0On  .spindles  of  1870.  Nevertheless,  the  necessity 
manufacturers  are  under  to  adopt  improvements  in 
machinery  produces  such  an  equalizing  effect  upon  the 
several  establishments  at  any  one  time  that  the  per- 
centage of  correction  needed  is  not  great:  and  the  rate 
of  progress  in  the  efficiency  of  machineiy  is  so  well 
known  that  it  is  ea-sy  to  make  allowance  for  it  in  com- 
parisons of  one  time  with  another. 

The  grand  total  of  active  producing  cotton  spindles 
in  all  the  textile  mills  of  the  United  States  during  the 


cen.sus  year  1899-1900  was  19,472,232,  as  compared  with 
14,384,180  '  at  the  Eleventh  Census,  a  numerical  increase 
of  5,088,052  spindles,  or  35.4  per  cent.  These  spindles 
were  located  as  follows: 


1        1900 

1890 

19,008,352 
206,698 
95,356 
59,460 
42,600 
59, 766 

•14,188,103 

69,830 

In  worsted  mills 

68,225 
58,022 

In  cotton  small  wares  establishments 

In  cordage  and  twine  factories 

T'! 

Total                            

19,472,232 

14, 384, 180 

1  Including  carpets.         2  included  in  cotton  mills.         3j;ot  reported. 

The  indicated  increase  in  the  number  of  spindles  in 
mills  other  than  cotton  factories  is  apparent  rather 
than  real.  A  company  in  New  England  having  75.000 
spindles,  which  in  1890  made  both  woven  goods  and 
knit  goods,  and  was  then  classed  as  operating  a  cotton 
factory,  now  makes  hosiery  and  knit  goods  exclusively. 


'  The  total  number  of  spindles  in  the  United  States  as  reported 
at  the  Eleventh  Census  wa.s  14,-550,323,  of  which  166,143  we:re  idle 
spindles  in  cotton  mills.  At  this  census  no  idle  spindles  which  are 
likely  to  be  put  in  operation  again  were  reported  from  any  state. 


46 


MANUFACTURES. 


and  being  clas.sed  with  that  indu.stry  swells  the  total 
unduly.  In  iiuinv  ca.ses,  both  in  18iti>and  in  lltOO,  com- 
panies that  produce  both  cotton  and  woolen  or  worsted 
goods,  or  mixed  goods,  made  divided  returns  of  their 
opcM'ations;  some  sucli  companies  made  but  one  return, 
being  classitied  according  to  the  relative  iniport^mce  of 
their  cotton  or  their  woolen  business.  The  fact  of  their 
making  one  return  or  divided  returns  at  one  census  and 
not  at  the  other  explains  partially  the  apparent  increase 
in  1900.  No  doubt  a  certain  part  of  the  increase  is  real. 
Although  the  gross  number  of  operating  spindles  in 
mills  of  all  kinds,  19,472,232,  is  to  be  taken  as  the  true 
measure  of  the  magnitude  of  the  cotton  industrj-  in  the 
United  States,  the  pi-esent  report  deals  exclusively 
with  the  spindles  in  cotton  mills  proper.  The  percent- 
age of  increase  in  them  in  the  whole  country  is  almost 
exactly  3-1  per  I'ent.  If  we  estimate  that  the  average 
efficiencj'  of  spindles  has  increased  5  per  cent  during 
the  same  period,  the  ability  of  American  mills  to  supply 
a  demand  for  goods  has  increased  about  40  per  cent. 
Numerically  thei'e  has  been  an  addition  of  2,014,832 
spindles,  or  18.6  per  cent,  in  New  England;  of  13,629 
spindles  in  number,  or  0.8  per  cent,  in  the  Middle  states; 
of  2.744,188  spindles  in  number,  or  176.6  per  cent,  in   | 

Table    18.— NUMBER  OF  SPINDLES   IN   COTTON   MILLS, 

AND 


the  Southern  states;  and  of  47,700  spindles  in  nuniljcr, 
or  29  per  cent,  in  the  Western  states.  Taking  account 
of  the  spinning  capacity  of  spindles,  the  growth  of  the 
industry  in  the  New  England  states  is  probably  not 
greatly  above  that  which  is  indicated  by  the  actual  num- 
bei'  of  spindles,  since  the  mills  in  that  part  of  the  coun- 
try were  in  advance  of  the  South  in  installing  improved 
spindles.  On  th(>  other  hand,  not  only  has  the  number 
of  spindles  in  the  Southern  states  become  nearly  three- 
fold that  reported  in  1890,  but  the  spindles  themselves 
are  for  the  most  part  of  the  latest  and  most  efficient 
types.  With  respect  to  one  state  the  test  of  capacity 
by  the  number  of  spindles  wholly  fails.  The  industiy 
in  Pennsylvania  is  largely  one  of  weaving  yarn  made 
elsewhere.  Although  the  state  ranks  fifth  in  the  value 
of  the  products  of  its  cotton  mills,  and  fourth  among 
the  states  in  the  amount  of  wages  paid  to  employees,  it 
is  ouly  the  twelfth  according  to  the  number  of  .sjDindles. 
It  shows  a  considerable  increase  of  looms,  and  the  in- 
dustry has  in  fact  expanded  during  the  decade,  but  the 
number  of  spindles  has  declined. 

Table  18  shows  the  mule  and  frame  spindles  in  cotton 
mills.  l)y  states  geographically  arranged:  1880,  1890, 
and  1900. 

BY  STATES    GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1880,  1890, 
1900. 


STATES. 

1900 

1890 

1880 

Total. 

Mule. 

Frame. 

Total. 

1 

Mule. 

Frame. 

Total. 

United  States 

19,008,362 

5,663,480 

13,444,872 

14, 188, 103 

5,363,486 

8,824,617 

10,653,435 

New  England  states 

12,850,987 

4,477,199 

8,373,788 

10, 836, 155 

4,391,895 

6,444,260 

8,632,087 

Maine 

841,521 
1,243,566 

100,028 
7, 784, 687 
1,880,622 
1,000,574 

1,647,251 

256,948 
287,165 
43,316 
2,686,316 
940,328 
393, 126 

858, 675 

684,573 
966,390 
56,712 
5, 22«, 371 
940,294 
607,448 

788, 676 

885,762 

1, 195, 643 

71,  591 

6, 824,  618 

1,924,486 

934,165 

1,633,7-22 

606,7% 
374,442 
439,638 
53,916 
158,930 

1,554,000 

344,697 

364,234 

42,735 

2,430,719 

811.869 

i        397, 641 

822, 613 

6a,  065 

831,409 

28,866 

3,393,799 

1,112,617 

536,614 

811, 109 

696,924 

944,053 

66,081 

4,236,084 

1,764,569 

936,376 

1,391,164 

New  Hampshire 

Massachusetts 

Connecticut 

Middle  states 

New  York '. 

720,268 
431,730 
306, 637 
34,562 
154,064 

4,298,188 

367, 136 
367,092 
124, 447 

353, 132 
64,638 

182, 190 
34,552 

154,064 

4,117,654 

334,210 

304,480 

175,  687 

2,880 

5,356 

108, 474 

272,586 
69,962 

263, 9.51 
.51,036 

163,574 

1,446,626 

561,668 
232  221 

New  Jersev  .  . . 

Pennsvlvania 

425,391 

Delaware 

46,188 
126, 706 

180,534 

1642,048 

126, 827 

1.133,432 

1.431,349 

816,545 

66,633 

12;?,  896 

411.328 

75, 122 

9,700 

65,600 

48,756 

211,926 

2, 3-25 
35,352 
10, 752 
84,926 
18, 399 
20,780 

8,000 

124, 502 

1, 098, 080 

1, 420,  597 

730,619 

48,234 

103, 116 

403, 328 

75, 122 

9,700 

55,600 

48,756 

164,854 

94,294 

337,786 

332,  784 

446,4.52 

42, 942 

97,524 

79,234 

67,004 

5,780 

46,200 

15,000 

164,226 

13, 198 
30,920 

4,000 
20,524 

8,784 
21,  58H 

9, 460 

81,096 
306,866 
328,784 
424.928 
34,158 
76,936 
69,774 
67,004 
5,780 
46,200 
15,000 

123,722 

44,340 

92,385 

Suuth  Carolina 

82, 334 

Georgia. 

198,656 
9,022 

35,736 

Alabama .   .        .                  .        

49, 432 

Missis-sippi. 

18,568 

Louisiana... 

Texas 

47,072 

40,504 

8,152 
16,320 
8,000 
5, 6S2 

'88,136 

Ohio 

16,660 
74, 604 
21,800 
32, 692 
6,000 
6,670 

8,408 
58,284 
13,800 
26,960 
6,00(1 
4,270 

13,328 

Indiana .  

102,  488 
31,488 
21.496 

16,320 
16,000 
2,816 

86,168 
15,488 
18,680 

33.396 

Illinois 

is,  654 
15,488 
17, 312 
10,000 

13,664 

9,216 

11,648 

10,000 

2, 4W 

19,312 

6,272 
5,664 

California 

6,000 

6,000 

1  Includes  in  1880, 11,575  spindles  reported  by  states  other  than  those  named.       '  Includes  in  1880,  22,100  spindles  reported  by  states  other  than  those  named. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


47 


Attention  was  ciillod  in  tho  report  upon  tlic  Eleventh 
Census  to  the  steady  suhstitution  of  fi-anie  spindles  for 
mules.  The  change  has  been  going  on  to  a  marked 
degree  during  the  past  ten  years.  It  would,  perhaps, 
not  l)e  accurate  to  assert  that  nudes  have  been  to  any 
great  extent  removed  from  old  mills  and  ring  spindles 
placed  in  them.  The  more  correct  view  is  that  sub- 
stantially all  the  new  spinning  is  frame  spinning.  In 
New  England  the  increase  in  nuile  spindles  is  less  than 
100,000;  of  frame  spindles,  nearly  2,000,000.  In  the 
South  ten  j-ears  ago  there  were  only  108. 47-1:  mule 
spindles;  there  are  now  reported  180,534;  but  as  con- 
trasted with  this  very  moderate  increase  we  have  an 
addition  of  almost  2,700,000  frame  spindles.  In  the 
Middle  states  the  mule  has  more  than  held  its  own. 
Ten  years  ago  there  was  an  excess  of  about  11,000  mule 
spindles  over  ring  spindles.  By  the  present  count  the 
excess  is  about  70,000.  It  is  well  known  that  although 
for  most  purposes  in  cotton  manufacturing  the  yarn 
made  upon  ring  spindles  is  altogether  satisfactory,  there 
is  a  demand  for  slack-twisted  yarn  chief!}'  for  knit 
underwear,  which  has  heretofore  been  produced  by  the 
nuile  only.  Moreover,  a  mechanical  diificidty  which 
has  not  been  overcome  has  been  experienced  in  employ- 
ing ring  spindles  for  spinning  upon  cops,  where  the 
yarn  made  in  one  mill  nuist  be  transported  to  another 
part  of  the  country  for  consumption  in  hosiery  mills. 
It  is,  therefore,  not  prol)ahle  that  there  will  be  a  reduc- 
tion in  the  numbei'  of  mules  in  use,  and  there  maj^  even 
be  an  increase;  but  the  economj'  in  the  production  of 
j'arn  by  ring  spindles,  and  the  fact  that  the  machinery 
can  be  operated  by  labor  not  so  highly  skilled  as  is 
required  for  mule  spinning,  will  doubtless  cause  the 
tendeni'V  to  install  frame  spindles  in  new  spinning  and 
weaving  mills  to  continue.  It  will  be  observed  that  in 
Rhode  Island  there  has  been  an  actual  decrease  of  ring 
spindles  and  an  increase  of  mules.  The  mills  of  that 
state  produce  a  large  amount  of  tine  yarn,  and  many  of 
them  are  engaged  extensively  in  spinning  yarn  for 
knitting  mills.  The  ascendency  of  the  mule  in  New 
Jersey  is  explained  by  the  fact  that  the  industry  in  that 
state  is  for  the  most  part  devoted  to  the  production  of 
fine  sewing  thread,  to  which  the  mule  is  by  far  the  bet- 
ter adapted. 

No  radical  improvement  has  been  made  during  the 
pastdecade  in  spinning  machinery  of  either  kind,  nor  do 
the  makers  of  such  machinery  anticipate  great  changes 
in  the  future.  The  mule  is  already  a  perfect  machine, 
in  the  sense  that  it  is  automatic  in  every  part  and  that 
in  none  of  the  various  operations  which  it  performs 
without  human  guidance  does  any  part  act  as  a  drag 
upon  others.  Inasmuch  as  the  spindles  are  now  oper- 
ated at  as  high  a  speed  as  is  compatible  with  the  spin- 
ning of  good  j'arn,  it  follows  that  in  order  to  increase 
the  pi'oduction  sensibly  it  would  be  necessary  to  im- 


prove the  machine  not  in  one  part  only  but  in  many 
parts.  With  respect  to  the  ring  s{)indle  the  quantity 
of  yarn  it  can  make  of  any  particular  count  is  directly 
propoi-tioned  to  the  speed  of  the  spindle  itself.  Ten 
thousand  turns  a  minute  comes  near  to  being  the  limit 
of  the  ring  spindle  under  present  conditions,  becau.se  at 
a  speed  above  that  the  travelers  are  apt  to  fly  of!'  })adly. 
It  it  estimated  that  the  average  speed  of  the  spindle  on 
No.  28  warp  yarn  is  about  9,000  turns.  The  production 
of  yarn  per  spindle  varies  greatly  with  the  number  of 
yarn  spun,  and  the  speed  varies  in  ."dmost  like  propor- 
tion— that  is,  on  coarse  yarns  a  spindle  running  7,000 
turns  a  minute  is  running  ix-latively  as  fast  as  when  it 
is  going  10,000  turns  a  minute  on  tine  j'arns. 

During  the  ten  years  1880-1890  the  number  of  frame 
spindles  sold  by  all  manufacturers  and  placed  in  the 
old  and  new  mills  was  6,0(10,193.  The  corresponding 
number  for  the  period  1890-1900  was  8,901,408.  The 
total  for  the  period  of  twenty  years  exceeds  the  whole 
number  of  ring  spindles  in  the  United  States,  a  fact 
which  suggests  that  substantially  all  the  spindles  of 
older  types  have  been  replaced.  There  were  in  1880 
in  all  the  Northern  states  10,111,387  spindles.  No 
count  was  taken  of  the  number  of  mule  and  frame  spin- 
dles; l)ut  during  the  ensuing  decade  1,. 569, 589  new  ring 
.spindles  were  placed  in  old  frames,  and  3,561,896  spin- 
dles in  new  frames  were  installed,  replacing  either  mules 
or  old-fa.shioned  ring  spindles  thrown  out.  At  the  close 
of  the  decade,  at  the  census  of  1890,  there  were  in 
Northern  mills  7,255,369  ring  spindles.  In  the  last  ten 
years  3,520,640  spindles  in  new  frames  have  been  placed 
in  mills  which  were  built  prior  to  1890.  in  addition  to 
1,742,120  spindles  in  old  frames.  Thus  more  than  one- 
half  of  the  spindles  in  use  ten  years  ago  in  Northern 
mills  have  since  been  replaced.  The  absolute  increase 
of  spindles  in  the  South  between  1880  and  1890  was 
1,011,952.  The  number  of  new  spindles  installed  in 
that  part  of  the  country  during  the  same  period  was 
868,708,  which,  it  will  be  noticed,  was  143,244  less  than 
the  total  increase.  During  the  early  years  of  the  South- 
ern development  it  was  not  unusual  to  equip  mills  with 
machinery  discarded  by  Northern  mills.  But  in  the  last 
decade  the  numerical  increase  of  frame  spindles  in  the 
South  has  been  2,672,128,  and  the  number  of  new  spin- 
dles has  been  3,283,884,  showing  that  not  only  were  all, 
or  substantially  all.  the  spindles  in  the  new  mills  of  the 
most  modern  type,  but  that  about  600,000  old  spindles 
in  old  mills  were  replaced  by  new.  Combining  the 
twenty  years  we  find  that  there  is  a  present  total  of 
4,117,654  framespindles  in  the  South,  and  that  4,152,592 
new  spindles  have  been  supplied  to  them  in  that  time. 
The  installation  of  new  .spindles,  by  years,  and  by  a  geo- 
graphical division  into  North  and  South,  is  shown  by 
the  following  table: 


48  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  19.— NUMBER  OF  FRAME  SPINDLES  SOLD,  SUMMARY:  JANUARY  1,  1890,  TO  JANUARY  I,  1900. 


Aggregate. 

NORTHERN  STATES. 

SOUTHERN  .STATES. 

YEARS. 

Total. 

New  frames. 

Old  frames. 

Total. 

New  frames. 

To  new 

mills. 

To  Old 
mills. 

To  new 

mills. 

To  old 
mills. 

Old  frames. 

Total 

8,901,408 

5,617,524 

354,764 

3,520,640 

1, 742, 120 

3,283,884 

1,467,624 

1,485,459 

330,801 

1890 

784,809 

656,306 

866,616 

1,042,268 

552,767 
958,426 

1,518,099 
651,  427 
730,312 

1,140,378 

602,890 
499,  999 
691,. 510 
823, 008 
377,  423 
669,  075 
832, 027 
•       278,439 
339, 226 
503,927 

38,600 
14,6.56 
36,440 
54,6.56 
18.812 
45, 120 
128, 192 
11,424 
4.480 
2,384 

356,225 

298,288 
415,483 
493,435 
241,397 
464,  056 
512,089 
1.54, 160 
231,063 
3.54, 444 

208.065 
187,055 
239,  .587 
274,917 
117,214 
1.59, 899 
191,746 
112,8.55 
103, 683 
147,099 

181,919 
1.56, 307 
175, 106 
219, 2(K) 
175,344 
289,  351 
686,072 
372, 988 
391,086 
636, 451 

57,909 

18, 697 

60,5.52 

48,080 

73. 048 

113,.5t;o 

309,060 

206,  46X 

205,491 

374. 7.59 

108,260 
116,425 

97, 2«2 
135,  .524 

84,040 
145,691 
315,976 
121,2.52 
1.50,117 
210,892 

15,750 
21,185 
17,272 
35,656 
18, 2.56 
30,100 
61,036 
45,268 
35.478 
50,800 

1891 

1892 

1893 

1894 

1S95 

1896 

1897 

1898 

1899 

CONSUMPTION    OF    COTTON    PER    SPINDLE. 

The  length  of  yarn  .spun  i.>;,  in  general,  directly  propor- 
tioned to  the  speed  of  spindle.s.  The  weight  of  ^-arn 
.spun  upon  .spindle.s  of  equal  efficiency  i.s  proportioned 
to  the  coarsenes.s  or  tinene.s.s  of  the  yarn.  Thu.><  it  might 
happen  that  spindles  of  an  ancient  pattern,  producing 
No.  10  yarn,  would  consume  several  times  as  much  raw 
cotton  as  an  equal  number  of  the  high-speed  modern 
spindles  would  convert  into  No.  50  yarn.  Conse- 
quently, in  studying  the  table  which  shows  the  average 
consumption  of  cotton  per  spindle  in  the  several  divi- 
sions of  the  countiy,  it  must  he  borne  in  mind  that  the 
indication  is  a  resultant  of  two  forces  acting  in  oppo- 
site directions. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  tendency  is,  as  it  was  during 
the  preceding  decade,  to  an  enlarged  average  consump- 
tion. In  the  whole  country  it  has  gone  up  from  70.43 
pounds  in  1880.  to  78.79  pounds  in  1890,  and  95.43 
pounds  in  1900.  The  increase  is  due  chiefly  to  the 
greatly  enlarged  e.xtent  of  the  indu.stry  in  the  South. 
For  although  the  average  increase  per  spindle  in  that 
section  is  but  little  more  than  3  pounds,  yet  the  num- 
ber of  spindles  which  consume  more  than  twice  the 
average  of  New  England  spindles  is  three  times  as  great 
as  in  1890,  and  the  proportion  of  the  whole  is  much 
larger.  Although  the  circumstance  of  the  excessive 
increa.se  of  spinning  in  the  South  as  com])ared  with  the 
rest  of  the  countrj-  masks  the  actual  facts  of  the  case, 
yet  an  analj'sis  of  the  figures  by  sections  gives  some 
useful  indications.  Thus  in  New  England  there  has 
been  an  increased  relative  production  of  fine  yarn,  and 
yet  the  average  annual  consumption  of  cotton  has  in- 
creased by  7  pounds,  oi-  i-ather  more  than  10  per  cent. 
We  may,  perhaps,  infer  that  the  average  efficiency  of 
spindles  increased  somewhere  between  one-eighth  and 
one-seventh.  On  the  other  hand,  the  average  consump- 
tion per  spindle  in  the  Southern  states  increased  but  a 
little  more  than  3  pounds  a  year,  or  about  2  per  cent. 
But  there  was  a  notable  increase  in  the  number  of  yarn 
spun  in  those  states.  For  example,  in  North  Carolina 
from  No.  15.30  to  No.  18.90,  and  in  South  Carolina 


from  No.  15.13  to  No.  19.04.  It  would  require  spin- 
dles averaging  from  '20  to  25  per  cent  greater  etficienty 
to  accomplish  the  conversion  of  an  equal  weight  of  cot- 
ton into  the  finer  yarn;  and  since  the  actual  consump- 
tion has  also  increased,  we  may  fairly  conclude  that  the 
average  efliciency  of  spindles  operated  in  Southern 
mills  has  increased  by  from  25  to  30  per  cent,  and  that 
they  are  on  the  whole  quite  up  to  the  average  of  the 
whole  country.  The  industry,  being  stationaiy,  or  de- 
clining, in  the  Middle  and  Western  states,  except  as 
regards  the  weaving  business  in  PhiladeljDhia,  the  facts 
regarding  those  divisions  of  the  country  call  for  no 
special  comment.  The  situation  presented  is  to  be 
found  in  the  following  statement: 

COTTON  CONSUMED  PER  SPINDLE. 


QEOGRAPHIC   DIVISIONS. 

1900 

1890 

1880 

United  States 

Pounds. 
95.43 

Pounds. 
78.79 

Pounds. 
70.43 

New  England  states            ,          

72.94 
88.24 
164.65 
111.07 

65.95 

78.46 

161.41 

147.55 

62  72 

78.58 

Southern  states ... 

155  94 

171.55 

Table  20,  which  is  a  continuation  of  one  in  the  report 
on  the  Eleventh  Census,  is  valuable  rather  in  detail  and 
for  purposes  of  comparison  than  in  any  general  deduc- 
tion that  may  legitimately  be  drawn  from  it.  This  will 
appear  from  a  consideration  of  the  fact  that  although 
the  number  of  spindles  to  each  wage-earner  has  in- 
creased 5.64  in  New  England  and  1.42  in  the  South — 
the  two  sections  which  combined  contain  90  per  cent 
of  all  the  spindles  in  the  country — the  number  of  spin- 
dles to  each  wage-earner  in  the  United  States  as  a  whole 
has  decreased  1.02.  The  explanation  is  a  simple  one, 
namely,  the  marvelous  increase  of  the  industry  in  the 
South,  where  the  number  of  persons  emplo3-ed  by  a  mill 
of  a  given  size  is  much  greater  than  in  the  great  factory 
towns  of  the  North.  As  employees  become  more  skilled 
and  experienced,  a  greater  average  amount  of  machin 
ery  can  be  put  in  charge  of  each  individual.  This  re- 
sult is  already  beginning  to  appear  in  the  labor  returns 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


49 


of  the  southern  mill.s;  but  a  great  proportionate  in- 
crease in  the  number  of  spindles  in  the  South,  and  of 
hands  employed,  showing,  even  at  tlie  improved  condi- 


tion, an  average  number  of  spindles  to  hands  barely 
half  that  in  New  England,  makes  the  comparison  for  the 
whole  country,  as  between  1890  and  1900,  misleading. 


Table  20.— COTTON  GOODS,  NUMBER  OF  SPINDLES  TO  EACH  WAGE-EARNER,  AND  THE  AMOUNT  PAID  FOR  LABOR 
TO  EACH  SPINDLE,  BY  STATES   GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1880  TO  1900. 


Year. 


WAGE-EARNERS. 


Average 
number. 


Total  wages. 


Number  of 
spindles. 


Number  of 
spindles  to 
eacb  wage- 
earner. 


Labor  cost 
per  spin- 
dle. 


United  States . 


New  Fiigland  stales. 


Maine. 


New  Hampshire  . 


Massachusetts. 


Rhode  Island  . 


Coiinectictit. 


Middle  states  . 


New  Jersev 


Ponnsvlvaiiia . 


Delnwatc 


Maryland  . 


SoutluTii  states  . 


Virginia. 


North  Carolina. 


touth  Carolina. 


Georgia  ... 
Kentucky . 
Tennessee. 


Alabama. 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


1900 
1.S90 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1.880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
ISSO 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 

1.880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

I'.lOO 
1S90 
1.S80 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


297,929 
218,876 
172,544 


162,294 
147, 359 
125, 779 


13,723 
13,912 
11, 759 

20,4&» 
19,383 
16,  395 

1,015 
724 
721 

92,085 
75,544 
61,246 

21,823 
24, 576 
21, 174 

13,194 
13, 220 
14,484 


34,843 
31,841 
28,118 


8,659 
8,316 
9,227 

5,518 
5,632 
4,179 

15,  .567 
12, 666 
9,879 

372 
971 
791 

4,727 
4,256 
4,042 


97,494 
36,415 
16,317 


2.931 
1.990 
1,085 

30, 273 
8,515 
3.232 

30,201 
8,071 
2,018 

18,283 

10,314 

6. 215 

1,351 
818 
348 

2,108 
2,124 
1,015 

8, 332 
2,088 
1.448 


885, 126, 310 
66,024,538 
42,040,510 


55, 367, 541 
47,832,943 
32, 170, 861 


4, 330, 297 
4, 213, 523 
2, 936, 640 

6, 759, 422 
6, 242, 204 
4,290,960 

259, 758 
204,538 
161,748 

32, 327, 443 
25,118,365 
15, 828, 571 

7,297,119 
7,814,767 
5,320,303 

4, 393,  .502 
4,239,546 
3,632,639 


11,396,710 
10,184,589 
6,613,260 


2, 582, 394 
2, 448, 031 
1,994,755 

1,.'«7,119 
1,984,659 
1,1.56,961 

5,602,339 
4,388,017 
2, 502, 688 

138,844 
308, 346 
192. 727 

1,186,014 

1,055,536 

766, 129 


17,601,648 
7,116,865 
2,  750, 986 


668,556 
373,993 
169,789 

5, 127, 087 

1,475,932 

439,  659 

5, 066, 840 

1, 510, 494 

380,844 

3,566,961 
2, 167, 036 
1, 135, 184 

280,407 
170,573 
63,850 

422,935 
444,573 
161.071 

1,482,226 
402, 908 
239,998 


19,008,352 
14, 188, 103 
10,653,435 


12,850,987 
10,836,155 
8, 632, 087 


841,521 
885, 762 
695,924 

1,2-13,555 

1,19.5,643 

944,053 

100,028 
71,691 
55,081 

7, 784, 687 
5, 824, 518 
4,236,084 

1,880,622 
1,924,486 
1, 764, 569 

1,000,574 
934,155 
936, 376 


1,647,251 
1, 633, 722 
1,391,164 


720, 268 
606,7% 
561,658 

431,730 
374, 442 
232, 221 

306,637 
439,638 
425, 391 

34,552 
53,916 
46,188 

154,064 
158, 930 
125, 706 


4, 298, 188 

1,554,000 

542,048 


126, 827 
94,294 
44, 340 

1,133,432 
337,786 
92,385 

1,431,349 
332, 784 
82, 334 

815,545 
445, 452 
198, 656 

66. 633 

42, 942 

9,022 

123,8% 
97, 524 
35,736 

411,328 
79, 234 
49, 432 


63.80 

64.82 
61.74 


79.18 
73.54 
68.63 


61.32 
63.67 
59.18 

60.80 
61.69 
57.58 

98.55 
98.88 
76.40 

84.54 
77.10 
69.17 

86.18 
78.31 
83.34 

75.84 
70.66 
64.65 


47.28 
51.31 
49.48 


83.18 
72.97 
60.87 

78.24 
66.48 
55.67 

19.70 
34.71 
43.06 

92.88 
65.53 
58.39 

32. 69 
37.34 
31.10 


44.09 
42.67 
33.22 


43.27 
47.38 
40.87 

37.44 
39.67 
28.58 

47.39 
41.23 
40.80 

44.61 
43.19 
31.96 

49.32 
52.50 
25.93 

58.77 
45.92 
35.21 

49.37 
37.95 


$4.48 
4.65 
3.95 


4.31 
4.41 
S.73 


6.15 

4.76 
4.22 

5.44 
5.22 
4.55 

2.60 
2.86 
2.94 

4.15 
4.31 
3.74 


4.06 
3,02 

4.39 
4.  .54 
3.88 


6.92 
6.23 
4.75 


3.59 
4.03 

3.55 

4.37 
5.30 
4.98 

18.27 
9.98 
5.88 

4.02 
5.72 
4.17 

7.70 
6.64 
6.09 


4.07 
4.68 
6.08 


6.27 
3.97 
3.83 

4.52 
4.37 
4.76 

3.54 
4.54 
4.63 

4.37 
4.86 
5.71 

4.21 
3.97 
7.08 

3.41 
4.56 
4.51 

3.60 
6.09 
4.86 


MON TEXT i 


50 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  20.— COTTON  GOODS,  NUMBER  OF  SPINDLES  TO  EACH  WAGE-EARNER,  AND  THE  AMOUNT  PAID  FOR  LABOR 
TO  EACH  SPINDLE,  BY  STATES  GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1880  TO  1900— Continued. 


Year. 

WAGE-E&SNSR8. 

Number  of 
spindles. 

Number  of 

spindles  to 

each  wage- 

eanier. 

Labor  cost 

STATES. 

Average 
number. 

Total  wages. 

per  spin- 
dle. 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
'1890 
11880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

11900 

1890 

11880 

1900 

1890 

11880 

11900 

■1890 

1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1,675 

1,154 

695 

984 

8339,546 
263, 997 
133,214 

263,630 

75, 122 
67,004 
18,568 

48,756 

44.85 
49.40 
26.72 

49.55 

24.62 

4.63 
7.17 

5.20 

1,356 

1,341 

261 

3,298 
3,261 
2,330 

293, 470 
307,359 
27,377 

860,411 
890, 141 
505,403 

65.300 
66,  980 
11,575 

211,926 
164,226 
88.136 

48.16 
49.95 
44.35 

64.26 
50.36 
37,83 

4.49 

4.5» 
2.37 

4.06 

5.42 
5.73 

106 
554 

481 

1,421 

1,309 

708 

27,861 
161,613 
104,500 

323,949 
310,342 
162,829 

16,560 
13,328 

102,488 
74.604 
33,396 

29.89 
27.71 

72.12 
56.99 
47.17 

9.76 

7.84 

3.16 

Illinois                                                                                                                 

4.16 

4.88 

430 

i23,986 

2i,806 

50.70 

5.69 

347 
490 

80,567 
131,170 

21,496 
32,592 

61.95 
66.51 

3.75 

4.02 

508 

1,424 
478 
633 

97,680 

428,034 
163,030 
140,394 

19,312 

87,942 
18, 670 
22,100 

38.02 

61.76 
39.06 
34.91 

5.06 
4.87 

8.73 
6.35 

1  Included  in  "all  other  Smuhern  states." 

=  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Southern  states— 1900,  .Arkansas,  2:  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1;  1890,  Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  Texas,  1; 
1880.  Florida.  1;  .\rkansas.  2:  Louisiana,  2;  Texas.  2.  Western  states-il90(), California,  1:  Colorado,!;  Illinois,  1:  Missouri,  2:  Nebraska,  1;  1890,  California,  1:  Iowa,  2; 
Missouri,  1;  1880,  Illinois,  2;  Michigan,  1:  Wisconsin,  1;  Minnesota.  1;  Utah,  1. 


The  figures  examined  in  detail  are  nevertheless  in- 
structive and  useful.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  number 
of  spindles  to  each  wage-earner  has  increased  in  three  of 
the  four  geographical  divisions  and  in  most  of  the  states. 
The  decline  in  the  Middle  states  is  to  be  ascribed  chiefly 
to  the  fact  mentioned  elsewhere — that  the  industry  in 
Penn.sylvania  is  becoming  more  and  more  a  weaving 
industry  and  that  the  number  of  spindles  has  declined. 
This  feature  becomes  almost  startlingly  apparent  in  the 
last  column  of  the  table,  where  the  labor  cost  per  spindle 
is  correctly  reported  as  more  than  twice  that  of  any 
other  state.  Indeed,  the  character  of  the  industry  in 
Penn.sylvania  differs  so  widely  from  that  of  any  other 
state  that  it  is  not  properly  included  in  any  table  in- 
tended to  show  averages  for  the  whole  country. 

With  reference  to  the  "labor  co.st  per  spindle"  it  is 
to  be  .said  that  it  shows  upon  the  whole  an  increase,  by 
states,  by  geographical  divisions,  and  for  the  United 
States.  It  thus  indicates  a  certain  increase  of  wages, 
as  the  column  showing  the  relation  of  the  number  of 
spindles  to  that  of  wage-earners  indicates  an  increase  of 
skill.  But  even  here  it  is  nece.ssary  to  exercise  caution 
in  making  deductions,  for  the  problem  is  complicated 
by  the  fact  that,  premising  an  equal  amount  of  skill  on 
the  part  of  operatives,  a  coarse-goods  mill  requires  more 


machinery  and  more  hands  for  a  given  amount  of  output 
than  a  line-goods  mill.  The  average  .spinning  in  the 
South  is  coarser  than  that  in  New  England,  and  con- 
sequently a  larger  force  is  needed.  Moreover,  the  mat- 
ter of  the  labor  co.st  per  spindle  is  complicated  bj^ 
considerations  of  the  hours  of  labor  in  a  working  day, 
of  the  proportion  of  women  and  children,  as  compared 
with  men,  employed,  and  of  other  matters  of  less  impor- 
tance than  these.  The  table  invites  analysis  by  students 
of  industrial  pi'oblems,  Imt  it  would  be  hazardous  to 
base  any  conclusions  whatever  upon  it  without  a  careful 
weighing  of  special  conditions  in  each  state — in  some 
cases  the  conditions  in  individual  manufacturing  cities. 

LOOMS. 

Inasmuch  as  the  American  cotton  manufacturing 
industry  is  essentially  a  weaving  as  well  as  a  spinning 
indu.strj',  it  follows  naturally  that  the  number  of  looms 
employed  keeps  pace  practically  with  the  corresponding 
number  of  spindles.  Against  an  increase  of  Si  per 
cent  in  spindles,  during  the  decade,  there  has  been  an 
increase  of  38.7  per  cent  in  the  number  of  looms.  In 
both  cases,  "cotton  goods"  only  in  1900  are  compared 
with  all  cotton  manufactures,  including  "cotton  small 
wares"  in  1890.     The  total  number  of  looms  in  1900 


CU'l'TOX  MANUFACTURKS. 


51 


was  450.(;S!2,  compiirod  with  324, SCO  in  ISllO.  There 
was  a  numerical  iiicrea.se  of  4S,7(i!>  in  New  Kn<,''laMcl,  of 
1,060  in  the  Middle  .states,  of  73,744  in  th(;  Southern 
states,  and  of  2.243  in  tiie  Western  states. 

An  analj'si.s  of  the  Ioouls  as  classified  in  tiie  followinjr 
table  brings  out  no  important  facts  whicii  are  notdedii- 
cil)le  from  other  statistics  here  presented,  but  it  is  con- 
firmatory of  the  inferences  to  be  drawn  from  them. 
For  example,  it  appears  from  the  statement  of  looms 
operated  upon  fancy  weaves,  tliat  there  was  an  increase 
of  22,453  in  the  number  of  such  looms,  and  that  12,735 
of  the  increase  was  in  New  England  mills  and  7,t>73  in 


mills  of  the  Middle  states;  which  is  in  accordance  with 
the  fact  of  a  large  inc^rease  in  the  tine  spinning  and 
weaving  of  the  one  section  and  of  a  wonderful  growth 
of  tile  weaving  of  upholstery  and  similar  goods  in  I'hila- 
delphia.  On  the  other  hand,  of  the  great  numerical 
increase  of  73,744  looms  in  the  Southern  states,  66,130 
represent  plain  looms  of  all  widths,  com]xu-ed  with  an 
increase  of  33,621  plain  looms  in  the  New  England  states. 
It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  the  increa.se  in  the  number 
of  looms  in  the  wiiole  country  opei'ated  in  the  weaving 
of  goods  more  than  36  inches  wide  exceeds  the  increase 
in  the  number  of  looms  making  goods  of  less  width. 


Table  31.— COTTON  GOODS,  NUMBER  AND  CLASSIFICATION  OF  LOOMS,  BY  GEOGRAPHIC  DIVISIONS:  1890  AND  Hion. 


Year. 

NDMBER  OF   LOOMS. 

OKOUKAl'HIC  DIVISIONS. 

Total. 

On  plain  cloths. 

On  twills 

and 
.sateens. 

On  fancy 
weaves. 

On  tapes 

and  other 

narrow 

goods. ' 

On  bags 

Less  than 

28  inches 

wide. 

28  to  32 
inches 
wide. 

32  to  36 
inches 
wide. 

36  inches 
wide  and 

over. 

and  other 
special 
fabrics. 

United  States 

1900 
1890 

450,682 
324,866 

35,601 
23,648 

98,995 
91,862 

79,349 
55,356 

126,082 
71,591 

58,839 
53,726 

45,686 
23,233 

1,709 

4,421 
5,450 

New  England  slates  

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

298,885 
260,116 

36,134 
35,074 

110.010 
36. 266 

5,653 
3,410 

16, 765 
12,609 

6, 442 
5,196 

12,  374 
5,803 

20 
40 

77,326 

72, 928 

3,023 
10, 601 

17, 930 
8,309 

716 
24 

37,722 
35,063 

3,501 
3,628 

34,446 
13,956 

3,680 
2,709 

84,916 
62, 608 

8,035 
6,708 

32,323 
2,876 

808 
600 

47,080 
46,346 

3,403 
4,930 

8,356 
2,442 

31,635 
18,900 

10.031 
2.358 

3.856 
1,975 

164 

1,686 

1  855 

1  762 

Middle  states 

123 

1,576 
2,653 

906 

Western  states 

265 

8 

129 

'  Included  with  bags  and  other  special  fabrics  in  1890. 


Table  22  presents  for  1900  the  number  and  capacity 
of  spinning  mills,  weaving  mills,  and  mills  which  do 
both  spinning  and  weaving,  by  .states  geographically 
arranged. 

Table  22  furnishes  a  basis  for  future  comparisons,  as 
well  as  showing  the  situation  with  respect  to  the  opera- 
tions carried  on  in  the  cotton  mills  of  the  United  States. 
It  will  be  seen  from  this  table  that,  of  the  total  number 
of  establishments,  more  than  half  both  spin  and  weave. 
In  the  matter  of  capacitj'  the  proportion  is  vastly 
greater,  as  83.6  per  cent  of  the  spindles,  and  'M  per  cent 
of  the  looms,  are  installed  in  what  may  be  termed  com- 
plete mills.  Even  these  large  propoilions  would  be 
increased  were  the  mills  of  the  Middle  states  eliminated. 


More  thtin  one-third  of  all  the  spindles  and  looms  in  those 
.states  are  in  mills  which  spin  only,  and  more  than  one- 
third  of  the  looms  in  mills  which  weave  only.  This 
circumstance  is  due  to  the  fact  that  half  the  product  of 
New  Jersey  mills  is  sewing  cotton,  and  that  weaving  is 
the  principal  feature  of  the  industry  in  Penn.S3'lvania. 
Excluding  the  IMiddle  states,  the  percentage  of  spindles 
in  spinning  and  weaving  mills  is  85  per  cent  and  that  of 
looms  is  almost  99  per  cent.  The  figures  for  the  South- 
ern states  indicate  a  tendency  to  erect  yarn  mills.  In 
North  Carolina  more  than  two-fifths  of  the  spindles  are 
the  ec}uipment  of  such  mills,  and  the  proportion  is  large 
in  some  of  the  other  Southern  .states  also. 


52 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tabi,e  22.— cotton  GOODS,  NUMBER  AND  CAPACITY  OF  SPINNING   MILLS,  WEAVING   MILLS,  AND  MILLS  WHICH 
DO  BOTH  SPINNING  AND  WEAVING,  BY  STATES    GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1900. 


Number 
ot  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

SPINNINO  AND  WEAVING  MILLS. 

SPINNINO  MILLS. 

WEAVING   HILLS.        | 

Number  of 
establish- 

STATES. 

Number. 

Capacity. 

Number. 

Capacity. 

Number. 

Capacity. 

Number   ' 

of 
looms.     , 

ments  llttv- 

Inc  no 
spiiiole.sor 
looms  for 
spinning 
or  weav- 
ing. 

Number 

of 
spindles. 

Number 

cf 
looms. 

Number 

of 
spindles. 

973 

502 

15,882,095 

432,959 

274 

3,126,257 

168 

17,723                    29 

332 

223 

11,233,326 

296,710 

76 

1,617,661 

17 

3,175  :                  16 

16 
23 
5 
163 
71 
55 

225 

13 
20 
3 
110 
44 
33 

46 

837,021 

1,23.5,907 

81,576 

6,712,998 

1,469,404 

896,420 

1,072,154 

23,229 
36,123 
2,099 
176,654 
39,366 
19,339 

23,724 

1 

3 

2 

36 

20 
14 

29 

4,500 

7,648 

18, 452 

1,071,689 

411,218 

104.154 

575,097 

1 

137   1 

10 
3 
3 

138 

2,726                        7 

106                        4 

206    1                    5 

MiHdlp  states            

12,410                      12 

34 

20 

154 

3 

14 

400 

14 
3 

17 
2 

10 

222 

626,040 
101,688 
168, 810 
21,552 
164, 064 

3, 366, 439 

14, 110 
1,576 
4,791 
738 
2,509 

108,044 

7 
4 
17 

1 

94,228 
330,042 
137,827 

13,000 

10 
10 
114 

435   1                   3 

650                      3 

11,024                         6 

4 
1             10 

301 
1,966 

168 

931,749 

1 

7 

177 

80 

67 

6 

17 

31 

6 

2 

2 

4 

16 

■               1 

19 

75 
57 
42 
2 
9 

18 
5 
2 
2 
3 

11 

126,827 

649,  442 
1, 304, 181 

652,  611 
37, 592 
97,558 

325,560 

73,872 

9,700 

65, 600 

33,  4V6 

210, 176 

4,608 

23, 992 

42, 193 

19,393 

991 

2,995 

8,.M9 

2,464 

2.57 

1,584 

1,018 

5,481 

94 
22 
25 
4 
8 
13 
1 

483, 990 
127, 168 
162, 934 
29,041 
26,338 
85,768 
1,250 

8 

1 

1,477 
470 



i 

1 

16,260 
1,750 

3 

172  !  I                      1 

M 

3 

4 
1 
3 
•> 

i 
1 

1 

2 

158  ,,                    1 

4 
1 

2 
1 

1 
1 

1 

102,488 
31,488 
21,496 
11,904 
15, 488 
17, 312 
10,000 

2,712 
700 
577 
356 
410 
480 
240 

1 

i4  1 

i 

1,750 

MERCERIZATION. 

During  the  past  ten  years  the  process  known  as  mer- 
cerizing has  been  introduced,  or,  more  strictlj-,  rein- 
troduced, as  an  adjunct  of  the  cotton  manufacturing 
industry.  The  process  derives  its  name  from  its  dis- 
coverer, John  Mercer,  an  Englishman,  who  was  born 
in  1791  and  died  in  18(34.  Mercer  was  a  man  of  hum- 
ble origin,  by  trade  a  handloom  weaver,  and  self-taught. 
Entering  a  print  works  as  an  ordinary  workman,  he 
became  interested  in  chemical  processes,  was  made 
experimental  chemist  to  the  works,  and  in  a  short  time 
introduced  several  new  stjdes  in  calico  printing.  He 
was  the  fir.st  to  prepare  sulphated  oil.  which  revolu- 
tionized the  turkey-red  industry;  was  the  inventor  of 
the  blue-print  photographic  process,  and  even  -devised 
and  improved  seveial  pharmaceutical  preparations. 
In  1S52  he  was  elected  a  Fellow  of  the  lloyal  Society. 
About  the  year  1845  or  1846  appeared  the  first  notice 
of  the  mercerizing  process,  and  it  was  patented  in 
1850.  It  excited  great  attention  at  the  first  world's 
fair,  in  London,  in  1851,  and  gi-eat  commercial  success 


was  anticipated  for  it;  but  for  various  rea.sons  it  did 
not  become  successful  in  Mercer's  lifetime,  nor,  in  its 
original  form,  at  any  time. 

The  process  of  mercerizing,  proper,  consists  in  treat- 
ing vegetable  fiber,  chiefly  cotton,  in  the  condition  of 
j'arn  or  of  woven  goods,  to  the  action  of  caustic  soda 
dissolved  in  water,  and  treating  it  subsequently  with 
pure  water  and  with  dilute  sulphuric  acid  for  the  pur- 
pose of  washing  out  or  extracting  chemically  the  soda 
that  remains  in  the  yarn  or  faliric.  The  process  efl'ect- 
uates  both  a  chemical  and  a  physical  change  in  the  con- 
stitution of  the  fiber.  The  wing  of  the  cottonseed  is  pure 
cellulose,  the  chemical  symbol  of  which  is  CioHjoOj,, — 
12  atoms  of  carbon,  '20  of  hydrogen,  and  10  of  oxygen. 
The  caustic  soda  and  the  water  in  which  it  is  held  in 
solution  unite  with  the  cellulose;  but  the  soda  is  after- 
ward removed  l)y  washing  Mith  water  and  by  "sour- 
ing" with  acid,  and  that  which  remains  is  hydrated 
cellulose — that  is,  cellulose  combined  with  water.  It  is 
probably  not  stricth'  accurate  to  say  that  the  cellulose 
and  water  are  chemicallj'  combined,  since  the  water  con- 
tained may  be  removed  by  drying  without  restoring  the 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 


53 


cellulose  to  its  original  condition:  hut,  on  the  other 
hand,  after  the  desiccation  tlie  mercerized  yai'n  or  cloth 
will  reabsorb  water  from  the  atmosphere  naturally. 

The  structural  change  in  the  fiber  is  a  marked  one. 
The  filament  of  I'otton  is  a  fiattened  tube  or  band,  the 
sides  of  which  are  pressed  closely  together,  leaving  a 
central  cavity  which  is  enlarged  at  each  edge  of  the 
flattened  tube.  It  is  opaque,  and  the  surface  is  not 
smooth.  The  fiber  has  also  a  slight  natural  twist.  All 
these  characteristics  are  modified  by  the  mercerizing 
process.  The  tube  becomes  rounded  into  cylindrical 
shape;  the  cavity  is  made  smaller  and  the  walls  of  the 
tube  thicker;  the  surface  is  made  smoother  and  the 
opacitj'  is  diminished;  and  the  filxu-  acquires  a  spiral 
form.  These  are  not  the  only  physii'al  changes  intro- 
duced by  the  process,  foi-  there  is  a  perceptible  shrink- 
age in  the  length  of  either  yarn  or  cloth  treated  by 
Mercer's  fornuila.  As  will  presently  be  noticed,  the 
modern  method  overcomes  the  shrinkage,  but  as  origi- 
nally introduced  the  loss  in  linear  dimension  varied 
from  15  to  25  per  cent.  Moreover,  the  weight,  and  con- 
sequently the  specific  gravity,  of  the  yarn  or  fabric  is 
increased,  as  is  also  the  strength  of  the  material,  this 
last  gain  varying  from  35  to  nearly  TU  per  cent,  accord- 
ing to  the  conditions  under  which  the  mercerizing  is 
done.  Another  important  result  oi  the  process  is  that 
mercerized  cotton  has  a  much  greater  affinitx'  for  certain 
dj'es  and  mordants  than  cotton  which  has  not  been  so 
treated. 

The  changes  heretofore  mentioned  were  those  whi(;h 
Mercer  specified  in  his  application  for  a  patent.  The 
chief  advantages  which  he  claimed  were  the  greater 
strength  of  yarn  or  cloth  and  the  greater  affinity  for 
dyes.  These  are  not  the  advantages  which  have  caused 
the  reintroduction  of  the  pi'ocess.  Refei'ence  has  been 
made  to  the  fact  that  mercerizing  causes  a  contraction 
of  the  fiber  and  a  loss  of  length.  Advantage  was  taken 
of  the  shrinkage  to  produce  crepon  effects  in  cloth, 
particularly  in  union  cloth,  but  it  was  not  availed  of  to 
any  large  extent.  It  has  been  discovered,  however, 
that  if  the  mercerizing  be  done  under  tension — that  is, 
if  it  be  simply  held  from  shrinking,  but  not  stretched, 
while  the  material  undergoing  treatment  is  immersed 
in  the  caustic  bath  and  while  the  alkali  is  being  removed 
by  water  and  acid — the  fiber  becomes  more  translucent, 
the  surface  smoother,  and  the  yarn  or  woven  goods 
treated  acquire  a  luster  similar,  and  not  greatly  inferior, 


to  that  of  silk.  The  same  result  can  be  produced  by 
strt^tching  the  material  operated  upon  to  its  original 
length  inunediately  after  it  has  been  subjected  to  the 
caustic  bath,  and  before  it  has  lost  its  pliable  condition. 
The  acquisition  of  a  glossy  appearance  by  mercerized 
goods  was  noticed  in  the  early  days  of  the  process,  but 
it  is  only  recently  that  the  increased  luster  impaired  by 
holding  the  material  fi'om  shrinking  caused  a  revival  of 
th(!  manufacture. 

The  impi'oved  process  in  mercerization  wiiile  the 
goods  are  in  a  state  of  tension  is  the  subject  of  pro- 
tracted patent  litigation  which  has  not  yet  been  brought 
to  a  decision.  The  process  itself  is  a  simple  one,  but 
must  be  conducted  with  great  care.  .Vs  applied  to  yarn 
it  consists  in  passing  it  through  the  bath  between  rollers 
which  prevent  all  conti'action,  and  then  through  the 
water  bath  and  a  weak  solution  of  sulphuric  iicid  under 
the  same  conditions.  The  rollers  serve  also  the  pur- 
pose of  squeezing  out  the  caustic,  the  water,  and  the 
acid,  and  so  facilitating  and  rendering  complete  the 
removal  of  all  chemicals  which  might  cause  a  contrac- 
tion after  the  tension  is  relaxed. 

The  uses  to  which  mercerized  material  may  be  put 
are  various.  The  process  has  not  been  applied  with 
success  to  ordinary  upland  cotton,  but  only  to  Egyptian 
and  sea-island  cotton,  which  are  naturally'  somewhat 
silky.  These  are  the  varieties  of  cotton  which  are  em- 
ploj-ed  in  the  production  of  underwear  and  the  finest 
of  woven  goods,  which  are  made  much  more  beautiful 
by  the  luster  imparted  as  well  as  b}-  the  brilliancy  of 
the  dyeing.  It  is  believed,  however,  that  the  fact  that 
mercerized  yarn  loses  something  of  elasticity  in  gaining 
strength,  is  against  its  general  availability  in  the  manu- 
facture of  hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

The  amount  of  yarn  mercerized  in  cotton  mills  during 
the  census  3'ear  was  809,468  pounds.  In  dyeing  and 
finishing  establishments  868,851  pounds  of  yarn  and 
7,973,506  stjuare  yards  of  cloth  were  mercerized.  The 
total  additional  value  given  to  yarn  and  cloth  b3'  mer- 
cerizing, in  all  establishments,  was  $679,490. 

Table  23  presents  a  comparative  summary  of  the  en- 
tire industrj%  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares,  by 
states  and  territories,  geographically  arranged  for  the 
several  censuses  from  18-40  to  1900,  inclusive;  and  Table 
24  presents  the  detailed  statistics  of  cotton  goods  for 
1900. 


54 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  23.-C0MPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  COTTON  GOODS  AND  COTTON  SMALL  WARES. 


Year. 


United  States. 


New  England  states. 


Maine  . 


Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


New  Hampshire. 


Vermont . 


Massachusetts. 


Rhode  Island. 


Connecticut . 


Middle  states. 


U 


New  York  . 


New  Jersey. 


Pennsylvania  . 


1900 
1^90 
1S80 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
18.50 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1860 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1S90 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1870 

I860' 

18o0« 

1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
ISoO 
1840 

1900 

1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 


Capital. 


SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 


Number. 


1,055 

905 

756 

956 

1,091 

1,094 

1,240 

364 
402 
439 
508 
570 
564 
674 

15 
23 
24 
23 
19 
12 
6 

23 
27 
36 
36 
44 
44 
58 

5 
6 
7 
8 


177 
187 
175 
191 
217 
213 
278 

87 

94 
115 
139 
153 
158 
209 

57 
65 
82 
111 
129 
128 
116. 

272 
239 
139 
■Z74 
340 
352 
298 

52 
42 
36 

81 
79 
86 
117 


25 
17 
17 
27 
44 
21 
43 

178 
158 
59 
138 
185 
208 
106 


$467,240,157 

354,020,843 

208, 280, 346 

140, 706, 291 

98,585.269 

74,500,931 

51,102,359 

276,089,821 

243,153,249 

156, 754, 690 

100, 103, 770 

69,260,279 

53,832,430 

34, 931,  .399 

21,087,190 
20, 850, 754 
15,292,078 
9,839,685 
6,018.325 
3,329,700 
1,398,000 

29,261,835  ' 
26,801,933 
19, 877, 084 
13,332,710 
12,586,880 
10,9.50,500 
5,523,200 

1,932,983 
1,431,986 
936,096 
670,000 
271,200 
202,500 
118,100 

156,289,4.51 
128,838,837 
72,291,601 
44,714,375 
33,704,674 
28,455,630 
17,414,099 

40, 150, 824  I 
38,798,161 
28, 047, 331 
IS, 836, 300 
10,052,200 
6,675,000 
7,326,000 

27, 367, 538 

26,431,578 

20,310,600 

12,710,700 

6, 627, 000 

4,219,100 

3, 152, 000 

61,98.5,519 
51,676,249 
31,014,759 
27, 723,  306 
18, 789, 069 
12,970,445 
11,583,882 

15,060,149 
13,290,745 
11,399,638 
8,511,338 
6,383,479 
4,176,920 
4, 900,  772 


4,902 
12,709 

8 

ii 

2,061 
1,359 


14, 399, 291 
13,519,972 
3,807,750 
2,762,000 
1,320,550 
1,483,600 
1,722,810 

24,331,965 
15,884,936 
10,331,985 
12,550,720 
9,203,040 
4, 528, 925 
3, 325,  400 


Salaries. 


$7,350,199 
13,464,734 


B 


3,806,248 
2,075,648 


AVERAGE  NDMBER  OF  WAGE-EARNERS  AND  TOTAL 
WAGES. 


Total. 


Average 
number. 


100 

80 


175 
150 


20 
13 


1,104 
669 


380 
256 


282 
191 


1,015 
503  1 


198 
85 


157 
51 


565 
294 


231, 816 
158,950 


370,777 

186,880 


26, 579 
16,204 


2,046,052 
1,112,302 


734, 465 
316,375 


396,560 
284,937 


1,423,138 
579,284 


263,160 
115,699 


269, 278 
69,623 


741,923 
299,071 


302,861 

218,876 

3  174,659 

135,369 

122,028 

92,286 

72,119 

164,944 
147,359 
127, 185 
94,775 
81, 403 
61,893 
46,834 

13, 723 
13, 912 
11,864 
9,439 
6,764 
3,739 
1,414 

20,454 
19,383 
16,5-29 
12,512 
12, 730 
12, 122 
6,991 

1,015 
724 
735 
451 
379 
241 
262 

92,615 
75,544 
61,844 
43,612 
38,451 
28,730 
20,928 

24,032 
24, 576 
21, 474 
16,745 

14. 077 
10, 875 
12, 086 

13,205 
13,220 
14, 739 

12,086 
9,002 
6,186 
5,153 

37,050 
31,841 
28,367 
28,974 

29. 078 
19,699 
18, 187 


Wages. 


Men,  16    Women,  Children, 

'years  and   16  years  '  under  16 

over,     and  over,     years. 


$86, 689, 752 
66,024,538 
42, 040,  .510 
39,044,132 
23,940,108 

(^) 

(') 

56,258,205 
47, 832, 943 
32,170,861 
28, 740, 788 
16,720,920 


9,259 
8,316 
9,305 
9,144 
7,659 
6,320 
7,407 

5,681 
5, 632 
4,222 
3,514 
2,531 
1, 712 
2,408 

17,011 
12, 666 
9,957 
12, 730 
14,994 
7,663 
5,522 


135,721 
88,837 
61,760 
42,790 
46,859 
33,150 

79,014 
63,749 
46,897 
30,203 
29,886 
20,745 


126,882 
106,607  ! 
84,5.58  I 
69,637 
75,169 
59.136 

74,882 
73,445 
62,568 
50,805 
51,517 
41,148  , 


40,258 
23.432 
28,341 
22,912 


11,048 
10,165 
17,720 
13,767 


4,330,297 
4, 213, 523 
2,936,640 
2,565,197 
1,368,888 


6,197 
5,193 
3,%2 
2,606 
1,828 
780 


6,760 
7,8.56 
6,481 
6,246 
4,936 
2,959 


6,759,422 
6,242,204 
4,290,960 
3,989,863 
2,883,804 


9,229 
8,144 
5, -235 
3, 752 
3,829 
2,9U 


10,362 
10, 345 
9,  .5% 
7,490 
8,901 
9, 211 


259,758 
204,538 
161,748 
125,000 
78,468 


438 
325 
214 
125 
157 
94 


495 
309 

350 
242 
222 
147 


32, 478, 697 
25, 118, 365 
15,828,571 
13,589,306 
7,798,476  1 


45, 245 
33,101 
■22, 774 
13,691 
13,691 
9,293 


41,298 
38,352 
31,497 
24,065 
24,760 
19,437 


8,033,007 

7, 814. 767 
5, 3'20, 303 
5, 224,  650 
2,847,804 


4,397,024 
4,239,546 
3,632.639 
3,246,783 
1,743,480 


10,980 
10,507 
8,344 
5,583 
6,353 
4,959 


6,925 
6,479 
6,368 
4,443 
4,028 
2,708 


10, 619 
10,887 
9.199 
8.028 
7,724 
5,916 


5,348 
5,6% 
5,445 
4,734 
4,974 
3,478 


12, 058, 932 

10, 184, 589 

6, 613, 260 

7,994,470 

5, 464,  772 


2, 745, 848 
2,448,031 
1, 994, 755 
2, 626, 131 
1,405,292 


15,012 
11,580 
9,161 
8,466 
12,212 
8,274 


17,584 
16,240 
13,188 
14, 126 
16,866 
11,425 


4,240 
3,246 
3,012 
2,608 
3,107 
2,632 


1,930,940 
1,984,659 
1,156.961 
1,009,351 
468,336 


6,057,286 
4,388,017 
2,502,688 
3,496,986 
2, 768, 340 


2,144 

1,828 
1,223 
1,086 
1,010 
616 


7,074 
4,991 
3,413 
3,859 
6,412 
3,564 


4,208 
4,034 
4,201 
4,546 
4,562 
3,688 


2,869 
3,391 
2,291 
1,745 
1,524 
1,096 


8,120 
6,258 
4,4.57 
6,097 
8,582 
4,099 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  wi 

^  Not  reported  separately. 

•Includes  2.115  officers  and  clerks  for  whom  no  salaries  are  reported 


h  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.    (See  Table  24.) 


766 

863 

1,421 

587 


663 

894 
1,698 
1,3U0 


82 

90 

171 

iA 


5,972 
4,091 
7,673 
5,763 


2,433 
3,182 
3,931 
3,134 


932 
1,045 
2,926 
2,909 


4,454 
4,021 
6,018 
6,382 


811 
1,C 
2,092 
1,990 


668 
413 
708 
683 


1.817 
1,417 
2,087 
2,774 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 

BY  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1840  TO  1900. 


55 


MACHINERY. 


Spindles. 


19,  (WO.  952 

14,lf*H.  103 

10,G53,-13.5 

7, 132,  415 

5, 23.'i,  727 

(<) 
2,2S4,im 

12. 891,  781 

10,836,155 

.S,  632, 087 

5, 498, 308 

3,8.58,9«2 

"i^597,'39i' 

841,521 
885, 762 
•  695, 924 
4.59, 772 
281,056 


Looms. 


Miscellaneous 
expenses. 


29,736 

1,243,555 

1, 195, 643 

944, 0.53 

749, 843 

636,  788 


195, 173 

100,028 
71,591 
55,081 
28,768 
17,600 


7,254 

7,784,687 
5,824,518 
4, 236, 084 
2, 619, 541 
1,673,498 


665, 095 

1,920,  .522 
1,924,486 
1,764,  .569 
1,043,242 
814, 554 

1,001,474 
934, 155 
936,376 
597, 142 
435, 466 


181,319 

1,647,2.51 
1,633,722 
1,391,164 
1,246,045 
1,042,480 


4,87,571 

720. 268 
606,796 
561,ft5S 
492, 573 
348,584 


211.6.59 

431,730 
374,442 
232,221 
200.  .580 
123, 548 


63, 744 

306,637 
439, 638 
425, 391 
434.246 
476,979 

146,494 


455, 752 
324.. 866 
225, 759 
157,  310 
126, 313 

(') 

302. 018 
2.50,116 
184,701 
114,982 
93,344 


23,366 

21,825 

15,971 

9,902 

6,877 


35,123 
31,850 
24,299 
19, 091 
17,336 


822,112,678 
16. 716,. 524 


13, 286, 637 
12, 086, 430 


1,440,425 
1,185,336 


MATERIALS   USED. 


Total  cost. 


Cotton. 


Bales. 


1,502,420 
1,340,222 


2,099 

1,175 

1,180 

628 

362 


179, 582 

133,227 

95,321 

55,343 

42, 779 


42. 298 
43, 106 
29, 669 
18,075 
17, 315 


19,550 
18,933 
18,261 
11,943 

8,675 


43,282 
59, 893 


$176, 5.51,. 527 

1.54.912,979 

102, 206, 347 

111,736,936 

57, 285, 534 

34,835,056 

93, 147, 668 
101,101,446 
74, 290, 026 
78, 816, 481 
37, 670, 782 
23, 800, 904 


7,036,287 
8, 446, 736 
7, 320, 152 
6, 746, 780 
3, 319, 335 
1,573,110 


3, 646, 708 
2, 261, 600 
1,570,344 


641,240 
(*) 

1,829,678 
1, 425, 958 
1, 129, 498 


11,  %0, 102 
12,%2,939 
10, 146, 904 
12, 318, 867 
7, 128, 196 
4, 839, 429 


7,275,111 
6, 675, 285 


38,060 
35,074 
27,318 
34,974 
25,185 


1,736,590 
1,871,057 


526, 235 
542,065 
508,297 
292,269 
181,030 
114, 415 


430, 603 


157, 428 
132,504 
112,381 


Pounds. 


1,817,643,390 

1,117,945,776 

7.50, 343, 981 

398, 308, 257 

422, 701, 975 

*'! 
(') 

940, 908, 114 
714,691,714 
541,373,880 
275, 625, 278 
283,701,306 


31,531 


271,629 
214, 034 
157,673 


83,026 


79,  765,  573 
65. 717, 252 
54,185,061 
25, 887, 771 
23,733,165 


Cost. 


S125, 169,  616 

117, 392, 576 

86, 945, 725 


136, 988, 647 

107, 319, 124 

76, 386, 499 

41,469,719 

51,002,324 


13,048 
8,954 
7,404 


54,389,015 
56,  .586, 283 
35,994,109 
37,371,599 
17, 214, 592 
11,289,309 


1,288,809 
954,637 


14,737 
13,466 
12, 403 

17.218 
7,885 


2,276 
3,673 
3,180 
2,176 
1,567 


3,832,839 
2, 088, 631 


11,697,461 
14,347,672 
12,291,437 
13, 268, 315 
6,799,223 
3, 484, 679 


7,538,538 
8,215,751 
8,029,127 
8,818,651 
4,028,406 
2,500,062 


1, 085, 236 
772, 520 
574, 867 


223, 607 


193, 226 
193, 291 
167, 480 


6, 828, 403 
4,647,J89 
3, 562, 088 
1, 235, 652 
1,447,250 


660, 984, 204 
386, 767. 326 
273, 718, 889 
130,6.54,040 
134, 012, 759 


25, 280, 096 
23. 044, 093 
16,191,758 
23, 793, 595 
13, 928,  671 
7, 349, 795 


943,848 
724,405 


17,499 
13,974 
8,488 
12,862 
12,994 


428,384 
194, 474 


2, 057, 143 
730, 125 


5,718,295 
5,564,251 
4, 652, 745 
6,990,626 
3,061,105 
1,985,973 


50,713 


109,111 
104, 6.55 
109, 703 


99,475,478 
97, 982, 155 
81,137,172 
44,630,787 
41,614,797 


39,483 


292, 288 
261,154 
228, 729 


125, 392 


102, 690 
78,824 
64,614 


56, 865, 809 
52,267,968 
52, 384, 171 
31,747.309 
31,891,011 


145,  363, 968 

128, 184, 288 

109,321,428 

80, 937, 966 

87,113,715 


37, 778 


3,157,768 
3, 028, 933 
2,018.175 
1, 964. 758 
1, 165, 435 
666,645 


13,176,718 

10, 485, 247 

6, 105,  700 

10,724,052 

7,386,213 

3, 152, 530 


29,644 
26, 723 
21,069 


14,437 


76. 425 
92, 705 
83, 997 


52,243,049 
39, 522, 057 
31,656,594 
24, 783, 351 
23,945,627 


15, 287, 868 

12,301,151 

9, 960,  609 

7,920,035 

9.094,649 


36, 549, 533 
44, 629, 588 
40,311,809 
32, 953, 318 
37, 496, 203 


< Not  reported.  ,  ,t,^r, 

^This  item  was  not  fully  reported  at  the  census  of  1860. 
•Includes  1  establishment  in  the  District  of  Columbia  which  is  not  shown  separately. 


66, 039, 133 
76, 749, 130 
63, 169, 434 


All  other  ma- 
terials. 


5,463,293 
7,053,168 
6,234,901 


9, 413, 526 

11,203,742 

8, 629, 063 


432, 455 
498, 348 
458, 607 


38, 916, 998 
40, 870, 307 
31, 107, 154 


7, 386, 339 
11,147,080 
10, 457, 770 


4,426,522 
5, 976, 485 
6,281,939 


10,696,029 
13, 906, 748 
13,268,526 


3, 743, 267 
4, 270, 665 
3,981,106 


1,411,743 
1,816,468 
1,319,422 


2,690,632 
4,371,693 
4, 749, 428 


851,381,911 
37, 520, 403 
15, 260, 622 


27, 108,  .535 
24,  3.52, 316 
11, 120, 592 


1,572,994 
1, 393, 568 
1,085,251 


2,546,576 
1,759,197 
1,517,841 


93,780 
43, 717 
49,690 


15,472,047 
15, 715, 976 
4,886,955 


4, 311, 122 

3, 200,  .592 
1,833,667 


h) 

3,112,016 
2,239,266 
1,747,188 


14,684,067 
9,137,345 
2,933,232 


1,975,028 

1, 293, 586 

671,639 


1,746,025 

1,212,465 

698, 763 


10. 486. 186 
6. 113,  .554 
1,356,272 


Value  of 
products. 


$339,200,320  i 
267,981,724 
192,090.110 
177. 489, 739 
115.681.774 
61.869, 1S4 
46, 350, 453 

191,690,913 

181,112,4.53 

143. 363, 030 

124, 959, 0.53 

79,  359,  900 

42, 040, 178 

31,611,880 

14,631,086 

1.5,316,909 

13, 319, 363 

11.844,181 

6, 235, 623 

2, 596, 356 

970, 397 

22,998,249  ' 
21,9.58,002 
17, 9.53, 403 
16, 999, 672 
13, 699, 994 
8, 830, 619 
4, 142, 304 

999,886 
914, 685 
855,864 
S46, 510 
357, 450 
196,100 
113,000 

111,12.5,175 
100,202,882 
72,289,618 
59,493,1.53 
38, 004, 265 
19,712,461 
16,553,423 

26,435,675 
27,310,499 
22,875,111 
22,049,203 
12,151,191 
6,  447, 120 
7, 116, 792 

15,500,842 

15,409,476 

16.069,771 

14,OJ6,334 

8,911,3.S7 

4, 257, 522 

2, 715, 964 

48, 961, 806 
40,664,476 
29, 389, 286 
38, 697, 765 
26,5.34,700 
12, 782, 718 
12,222,200 

10, 788, 003 
9,777,295 
8, 266, 836 

11,178,211 
6, 676, 878 
3,591,989 
3,640,237 

6,930,766 
5,902,616 
4,518,275 
4,015,768 
2,217,728 
1, 109,  .524 
2,086,104 


25, 447, 697 
18,431,773 
11,021,0.54 
17,490,080 
13,650,114 
5,322,262 
5, 013,  0O7 


56 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  23.-C0MPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  COTTON  GOODS  AND  COTTON  SMALL  WARES, 


Year. 


Middle  states— Continued. 
13  Delaware 


14 


Mar.vlaml- 


15  I  Southern  states. 


Virginia . 


1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
18.50 
1840 

1900 
1890 
18S0 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 


Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


North  Carolina . 


18  South  Carolina . 


19  Georgia. 


Kentucky 


21  Tennessee . 


22 


23 


Alabama 


Mississippi 


24     Arkansa-s. 


1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
18S0 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
I860 
1850 
.  1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900  < 

1890  < 

1880 

1870 

1860 

1850 

1840 


Capital. 


11 
12 
11 

14 
15 
19 
22 
21 
25 
21 

401 
239 
161 
151 
165 
166 
248 


1900 

177 

1890 

91 

l&SO 

49 

1870 

33 

1860 

39 

1850 

28 

1840 

25 

SALARIED  OFF1CIAI.S, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 


AVERAGE   NUMBER  OF  WAGE-EAB.NERS   AND  TOTAL 
WAGES. 


Total. 


Number. 


^84,858 
1,683,803 
874, 570 
1,165,000 
582,500 
460,100 
330,500 

7.709,256 
7,296,793 
4,600.816 
2,734,250 
2,299,500 
2,321,000 
1,304,400 

124, 596, 874 
53,  827, 303 
17,37,5,897 
ll,0.'vS.315 
9. 840, 221 
7,2.56,056 
4,331,078 

4,403,206 
2,966,889 
1,190,100 
1,128,000 
1,367.513 
1,908,900 
1,299,020 

33,011,516 
10, 775, 134 
2,85.5,800 
1,030,900 
1,272,750 
1,058,800 
995,300 

39,258,946 

11,141,833 

2, 776, 100 

1,337,000 

801,825 

857,200 

617,4.50 

24,222,169 
17,664,675 
6,348,6.57 
3,433,265 
2, 126, 103 
1,736,156 
673,835 

1,867,605 
1,376,132 
360,000 
405,000 
244,000 
239,000 
316, 113 

3, 767, 726 
2, 928, 657 
1, 145, 600 
970,650 
965,000 
669, 600 
463,240 

11,638,757 

2,853,015 

1,246,500 

931,000 

1, 316, 000 

651,900 

35,575 

2,209,749 

2,053,743 

1, 122, 140 

751,500 

230,000 

38,000 

6, 420 


75,000 
13,000 
37,000 
16,600 
2,125 


Salaries. 


84 


659 
227 


416 
121 


159 
49 


{15,449 
15,982 


Average 
number. 


133,338 
78,909 


2,013,362 
700,204 


50,387 
32,831 


586,730 
170,264 


537;  193 
136,080 


435,201 
199,049 


33,761 
18,466 


54,364 
50,865 


197, 700 
44,265 


60,212 
26,984 


Wages. 


372 
971 
797 
726 
1,109 
838 
566 

4,727 
4,256 
4,086 
2,860 
2,782 
3,166 
2,284 

97,559 
36,415 
16, 741 
10, 173 
10,152 
10,043 
6,642 

2,931 
1,990 
1,112 
1,741 
1,441 
2,963 
1,816 

30,273 
8,515 
3,343 
1,453 
1,755 
1,619 
1,219 

30,201 
8,071 
2,053 
1,123 

891 
1,019 

570 

18,348 
10,314 
6,349 
2,846 
2,813 
2,272 
779 

1,351 
818 
352 
269 
246 
402 
523 

2.108 
2, 124 
1,044 


891 
1,512 

8,332 
2,088 
1,490 
1,032 
1, 312 
716 
82 

1.675 

1,154 

722 

265 

215 

36 

81 


Men,  16    Women,  Cliildren, 

years  and   16  years  I  under  16 

over,     landover.     years. 


$138,844 
308,346 
192,727 
190,069 
220,224  ( 


108 
266 
243 
225 
520 
413 


1, 186, 014 

1,055,536 

766, 129 

671,933 

602,580 


1,446 
1,249 
1,270 
688 
1,163 
1,049 


17,509,189 
7,116,865 
2,750,986 
1,929,779 
1,481,704 


40,555 
12, 517 
5,056 
3,640 
4,113 
3,886 


222 
488 
362 
286 
589 
425 


42 
217 
192 
215 


2.165 
2,069 
1,877 
1,452 
1,619 
2,117 


1,116 
938 
939 
720 


668,556 
373,993 
169, 789 
229,750  I 
260,856  I 


5,127,087 

1,475,932 

439,659 

182,961 

189, 744 


1,280 
563 
301 
921 
694 

1,275 


5, 066, 840 

1,510,494 

380.844 

257,680 

123,300 


12,780 
2,788 
876 
258 
440 
442 


3,574,492 

2,167,036 

1,135,184 

611,868 

415, 332 


280,407 

170, 573 

63,850 

57,951 

41,280 


13.418 
2,849 
696 
289 
342 
399 


32,545 
15,083 
7,587 
4,190 
6,039 
6, 157 


24,459 
8,815 
4,0* 
2,343 


1,000 
951 
530 
507 
747  1 


I" 


10,364 
3,656 
1,727 
916 
1,315 
1,177  i 


8.673 
3.070  ; 
772 

508  1 

549 

620 


422,936 
444, 573 
161, 071 
178, 156 
139, 180 


1,482,226 
402, 908 
239, 998 
216. 679 
198, 408 


339,546 

263,997 

133,214 

61,833 

36, 264 


7,339 
4,100 
4,428 


7,336 
3,849 
1,987 
1,147 
1,131 
873 


430 
268 
128 

130 

181 


807 
670 
311 
252 
3-23 
310 


6,512 
4,005 
2,951 
1.080 
1.682 
1,399 


591 
372 
91 
71 
116 
221 


3,152 
736 
426 
303 
643 
346 


626 
450 
203 

78 
106 

19 


918 
997 
502 
463 
576 
581 


2,743 

852 
631 
445 
769 
369 


683 
398 
313 

88 

109 

17 


651 
476 
281 
313 


7,129 

2,071 

741 

279 


8,110 

2, 152 

585 

326 


4,600 

2,460 

1.411 

619 


330 
178 
133 
121 


383 
457 
231 
175 


2,437 
501 
433 
284 


466 
306 
206 

99 


1  Not  reported  separately. 


*  Not  reported. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 

BY  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1840  TO  1900-Continued. 


MACHINEBY. 


Spindles. 


34,552 
53, 916 
46,188 
29,534 
38,974 

""24,492" 

154,064 

158, 930 

125, 706 

89.112 

54,395 

""41,' 182 

4,299,988 

1,554,000 

542, 048 

827, 871 

298, 551 


Looms. 


180, 927 

126,827 
94,294 
44,340 
77,116 
49,440 


42.262 

1,133,432 

337,786 
92, 385 
39, 897 
41.884 


47,934 

1,431,349 

332,784 

82, 334 

34,940 

30,890 


16,355 

817, 345 

445. 452 

198,656 

85,602 

85,186 


42,589 

66, 633 

42, 942 

9,022 

7.734 

8,192 


12,  358 

123. 896 
97,524 
35, 736 
27, 923 
29, 850 


16,813 

411.328 
79, 234 
49,  432 
28.046 
35, 740 


1,502 

75  122 

67, 004 

18,  ,568 

3,  .526 

6,344 


318 


2,015 
1,125 


90 


Misnellancoxis 
expenses. 


738 
996 
822 
771 
986 


2,810  1 

2,965 

2,425 

1,947 

1,753 


110,015 

36, 266 

11,898 

6,2.56 

6,789 


86,448 
85,149 


MATERIALS   llfiEI). 


Total  cost. 


4,608 
2,517 
1,322 
1,310 
2,160 


397,016 
35J,478 


25,469 

7,254 

1,790 

618 

761 


4,788,860 
2,257,660 


13.5,173 
102, 565 


42, 663 

8,646 

1,676 

746 

525 


19,398 

10, 459 

4,493 

1,887 

2, 041 


1,030,918 
423, 324 


991 

677 

73 

72 

76 


1,607,,S24 
528, 208 


$187,919 
,5S7,  046 
527,205 
704, 733 
570, 102 
312,068 


3, 039, 396 
3,378,016 
2,887,933 
3,409,426 
1,746,816 
1,232,579 


56, 195, 213 
27,764,0.55 
9,999,145 
7, 419, 010 
4,954,126 
3,332,631 


Bales. 


2,675 
8, 876 
7,512 


1,412,332 
1,199.578 
640,391 
937, 820 
811,187 
828,375 


4,730 


80,954 
56, 026 
51,  537 


17, 386, 624 

6,239,902 

1,463,645 

963, 809 

622, 363 

531,903 


24,285 


1,479,006 
526,  .8.56 
182,349 


Pounds. 


1,371,663 
4,465,825 
3,236,184 
2, 587, 615 
3,403,000 


39,901,955 
27, 266, 667 
24,160,232 
12,693,647 
13,174,236 


78, 140 


38,118 
22, 731 
11,461 


2,996 

2,043 

818 

313 

243 


8,549 

1,692 

863 

632 

623 


1,050,088 
724,822  ! 


105, 796 
60, 200 


142, 878 
173, 853 


17,263,882 

6, 819, 320 

1,808,300 

761,469 

431,. 525 

295, 971 


11,169,700 
7, 832, 230 
4,019,673 
2,  .504, 758 
1,466,375 
900, 419 


972,244 
643, 949 
253, 818 
375, 048 
214, 755 
180,907 


17,785 


707,842,111 

2,50, 837, 646 

84, 528, 757 

34,351,195 

45,786,510 


17,832,465 

10,616,206 

5,087,519 

4,255,383 

7,544,297 


404,536 
114, 371 
27, 642 


13, 617 


486, 234 

133,342 

33, 624 


511,296 
154,893 


2,464 

1,352 

644 

162 

90 


28 


117, 117 
67,62'2 


1,143,234 
1, 765, 162 
553,761 
595, 789 
384, 648 
297,500 


4,825,981 
1, 459, 048 
783, 711 
764, 965 
617,633 
237,081 


304, 431 

145, 869 

71,389 


190, 138,  759 

63,546,289 

11,832,641 

4,238,276 

5, 540, 738 


230.063,807 

64, 000, 600 

15,601,005 

4,766,823 

3, 978, 061 


20,230 


23, 982 
11,980 
4,050 


3,760 


30, 273 
33, 114 
10, 436 


6,411 


134,371 
29, 962 
14,702 


145,833,116 
69, 139, 410 
33,757,199 
10,921,176 
13,907,904 


11,971,815 
5,751,305 
1,882,234 
1,584,625 
1,826,000 


15, 040, 336 

15, 779. 360 

4,944,279 

2,872,582 

4, 072, 710 


767, 327 
871,970 
337, 149 
123, 568 
79.800 
21,600 


33,306 

13,780 

11,600 

8,976 


5,208 


67, 987, 299 

14,726,464 

7,271,791 

3, 249, 523 

5,246,800 


20,  962 
17,366 
6,411 


430 


680 


10, 363, 458 

8.449,834 

2,881,853 

580,764 

698, 800 


340,000 
66,400 
187, 500 


Cost. 


S106, 358 
475,490 
427,855 


2,644,129 
2,972,432 
2, 780, 715 


47,071,449 

24,. 508. 776 

8, 890, 408 


1,154,215 

1,080,773 

601,796 


13, 627, 720 
6,396,974 
1,125,984 


14,929,646 
6, 242,  .598 
1, 723, 187 


9, 702, 798 
6,663,  .560 
3,591,554 


770,363 
654, 206 
188,856 


984, 309 

1,  .5.54, 851 

.508, 305 


4,206,721 

1,372,058 

729, 202 


All  other  ma- 
terials. 


623, 676 
793, 600 
301,226 


2.5,000 


•  Maryland  and  the  District  of  Columbia  are  combined  in  this  table  as  Middle  states  tor  purposes  of  comparison. 

•  Included  in  "  All  other  Southern  states." 


81,561 
112, 156 
99,3.50 


395,267 
405,584 
107,218 


9,123,764 
3, 2.55, 279 
1,108,737 


258,117 

118, 805 

38,595 


3, 758, 904 
842, 928 
337,661 


2, 334, 336 

576, 722 

85, 113 


1,466,902 

1,168,670 

428, 119 

h 


201,881 
89, 743 
64,  %2 


156,925 
210, 311 
45,456 


619, 260 
86,990 
64,509 


143, 751 
78, 370 
3.5,923 


8,306 


57 


Value  of 
prducts. 


8372,089 
1,09.5,001 
871,007 
1,060,898 
941,703 
.538,439 
332, 272 

6, 423, 251 
5, 457, 792 
4,682,114 
4,852,808 
3,048.277 
2, 220,  .504 
1,160,580 

96,002,069 

41,. 513, 711 

16, 3.56,  .598 

11,372.186 

8,460,337 

6,464,488 

2,241,595 

2,655,002 
1,732,648 
1,040,962 
1,435,800 
1,489,971 
1,486,384 
446, 063 

28, 372, 798 
9,663,443 
2,554,482 
1,345,052 
1,046,047 
831,342 
43'*,  900 

29,723,919 

9,800,798 

2,895,769 

1,629,937 

713,060 

748, 838 

359,000 

18,544,910 
12,035,629 
6,481,894 
3, 648, 973 
2,371,207 
2,135,044 
304, 342 

1,663,712 
1,000,668 
418,286 
498, 960 
315. 270 
273, 439 
329,380 

1,994,935 
2,507,719 
874, 717 
941,  542 
698, 122 
510, 624 
325,  719 

8, 1.53, 136 
2,190,771 
1,228,019 
1,088,767 
1,040.147 
382, 260 
17,547 

1,472,835 

1,333,398 

679, 093 

234.445 

176, 328 

80,600 

1,744 


60,000 
22,562 
23,000 
16, 637 


15 


18 


19 


•21 


m 


23 


24 


58 


MANUFACTURES. 

tahle  a3.— comparative  summary,  cotton  goods  and  cotton  small  wares, 


Year. 

Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERK,S,   ETC. 

AVERAGE  NUMBER    OF    WAGE-EARNERS   AND  TOTAL 
WAGES. 

Total. 

Men,  16 

years  and 

over. 

Women, 
16  yearn 
and  over. 

Children 

under  16 

years. 

Number. 

Salarie.s. 

Average 
number. 

Wages. 

Southem  states— Continued. 

1900' 

18901 

1880 

1870 

1860 

1850' 

1840 

1900 

18901 

1880 

1870 

1860 

1850' 

1840' 

19005 

1890 

1880 

1870' 

1860 

18.50 

1840' 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

(  1900 
1890 
1.S80 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1860 
1840 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1870' 

I860' 

1850' 

1840 

19008 

1890 

1880 

1870 

1860 

1850' 

1840' 

19008 

18908 

1880 

1870 

1860 

1850 

1840' 

1900' 

1890' 

1880 

1870 

1860 

1850' 

1840' 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
I860' 

2 
4 
2 

*195,000 

592,000 

1,000,000 

108 
246 
360 

S12,572 
60,600 
49,440 

43 
123 
220 

41 
57 
140 

24 
66 

25 

Texas 

2 
4 

22,000 
2,227,184 

23 

984 

21 

$31,388 

253,630 

497 

302 

185 

2 
4 

1 

60,000 
490, 000 
4.50,000 

71 
291 
130 

2,466 
68,211 
15,600 

45 
184 
130 

10 
52 

16 
55 

5 
5 

1 

1,990,016 

2, 067, 225 

11,000 

19 
15 

26,426 
21,400 

1,356 

1,311 

33 

293,470 

307,359 

5,000 

329 
345 
21 

759 

782 

2 

268 

214 

10 

07 

1 

30,000 
80,000 

65 
95 

7,872 

40 
28 

25 
67 

18 
25 
17 
23 
16 
12 
20 

4 
7 
4 

7 
8 
8 
8 

5 
6 
4 
4 
2 
•> 
12 

3 
4 
1 

4,-567,943 

5, 364, 042 

3,13.5,000 

1,790,900 

695,  700 

442,000 

256,000 

172,661 
1,213,217 
670,000 
555,700 
265,000 
297,000 
113,  .500 

1,679,741 

1.744,720 

1,090,000 

551,500 

251,  000 

43,000 

142,500 

467,808 
892,509 
200,000 

66 
94 

107, 451 
109,  .598 

3,308 
3,261 
2,366 
1,447 
1,395 
681 
456 

109 
554 
484 
462 
840 
401 
246 

1,428 
1,309 
720 
504 
367 
95 
210 

347 
490 
271 

863,426 
890, 141 
505,403 
379, 095 
272,712 

1,140 
991 
646 
481 
648 
245 

1,871 

1,839 

1,215 

516 

747 

406 

297 
431 
,505 
4.50 

■>R 

Ohio 

Indiana 

Wisconsin 

13 
30 

11,666 
32,144 

29, 076 
161,613 
104,  .500 
113,  520 
151, 164 

27 
235 
126 
216 
372 
132 

82 
312 
321 
147 
468 
269 

7 
37 
99 

oq 

19 
16 

34,964 
22,334 

325, 749 
310,342 
162, 829 
113,200 
84,888 

377 
325 
205 
119 
177 
38 

1,001 
749 
391 

•179 

190 

57 

50 
235 
124 
206 

r> 

5 
11 

5,220 
11,300 

80,567 

131,170 

67.209 

131 
198 
66 

191 
239 
149 

25 
53 
56 

31 



Illinois 

• 

4 
2 
5 
3 

766, 405 

240,000 

151,000 

4,700 

24 

26,400 

430 

237 

98 

11 

123,986 

47,885 

25,500 

2,640 

112 
66 
26 
10 

280 
89 
31 

1 

38 
82 
41 

32 

3 
3 

2 

890,000 
489,200 
169.000 
102,000 

515 
361 
170 

155 

97,680 

120,300 

30,600 

127 

107 

85 

75 

207 
154 

85 
80 

181 
100 

."B 

Utah 

1 
3 

1 

20,000 

42,000 

6,000 

29 
16 
7 

2,100 
6,300 
3,420 

16 
10 
4 

8 
2 
3 

4 

»4 

All  other  Western  states" 

3.5 

6 
4 
2 

1 

2,247,733 

747, 191 

25,000 

1,500 

29 
13 

55,601 
17,420 

1,424 

478 

110 

6 

428,034 

163,030 

23,200 

276 

605 

121 

40 

3 

597 

259 

50 

3 

222 
98 
20 

1  Included  in  "all  other  Southern  states." 

2  Not  reported  separately. 

3  Not  reporlfd.  « 
^No  establishments  reported. 

&  Includes  states  grouped  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  mav  not  be  disclosed.  These  establishments  are  distributed  as  follows:  1900, 
Arkansas,  2:  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  i.  1890.  Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  Texas,  1.  isigo,  Florida,  1.  1860,  Florida,  1.  1850.  Florida,  number  of  establishments 
not  reported. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 

liV  .STATICS  AND  TERRITORIES    GEOGRAPHICALLY  ARRANGED:  1840  TO  lllOO— Continued. 


59 


MArHJUKKY. 

MiscellaneouB 
expenses. 

, 

MATKKIAI,  I'SEfJ. 

All  other  ma- 
terials. 

Value  of 
products. 

Total  cost. 

Cotton. 

Spindles. 

Looms. 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

6,096 
13.084 
6,725 

120 
292 
150 

«72,470 
161,485 
226,600 

1,358 

644.000 

748. 525 

1,995,700 

868,018 

4,452 

(21 
(3) 

74,824 

86,776 
251,. 5,50 
466.  .500 

■m 

706 
48,756 

18.900 
1, 199, 990 

1,018 

$113,166 

641,341 

18,045 

9,304,434 

566.517 

2,648 
8.878 
2.700 

71 
235 
100 

14.  827 
216,  .519 
64.140 

246 

119,986 

1,077,118 

688,000 

11.280 

3,547 

l1 

106,864 
82,740 
2,095 
3 

') 
I 

») 

466,645 

775,463 

•126,538 

PI 

(3) 

144,013 
519,890 
28,494 

I' 
*) 

') 

93,675 
121,388 

(•1 
(J\ 

•) 
(') 

26,494 
23,716 
14,484 

9 

21,600  j 
374,  .598 
80,095  , 

76 

66.300 

66. 980 

816 

1,860 
1,726 

74,614 
32, 173 

612.548 

932.8% 

18.095 

19,0,55 

18, 131 

350 

9, 316, 623 

8, 828, 188 

166, 250 

.506, 684 

850,156 

16,000 

1 
1,220,822 
1,348,637 
25,000 

?7 

1.600 

20 

23.600 
30.000 

200,000 

40,666 
49,920 

600 

211.926 
164.226 
88,136 
60, 191 
35,734 

5,659 
3,410 
1,812 
1,098 
995 

204,342 
283,803 

1.928,  5.50 

3, 003.  3.S5 

» 1.725.  lis 

1.707.8.50 

731.955 

351.726 

46,736 
47,632 
29,768 

23,  .539, 197 

24,232,128 

15,119,916 

7,393,818 

6,103,444 

1,463,005 

2,227.922 

«1. 627.357 

3, 545, 512 

4,691,084 

•2,981,1% 

2,560,735 

1,326,837 

581,800 

274,778 

78 

7,105 

18,  739 

164 

40 

42 

208 

MO 

18,214 
106,399 

144.043 
903.446 
286.692 
493.704 
374.100 
237.060 

236,885    1 

16,560 
13,328 
23, 240 
19,664 

11,023 
5,323 

5, 840, 078 
2,  .506, 182 
2, 226, 400 
3,192,600 

383.556 
258.198 

1,468,204 
637.000 
681.  835 
723.500 
394.700 
139,378 

1,341,. 597 

1,350,425 

1,155,029 

778,047 

344,350 

44,200 

136,400 

316,061 
620,196 
328,389 



.?9 

4,270 

13.751 

102.  488 
74.004 
33,  396 
17, 360 
ll.OOO 

2,712 

1,649 

776 

448 

375 

72,888 
73,941 

702.  497 
919,  5lii; 
; 651. 434 
542.875 
229.925 
28.220 

19.884 
16. 306 
11.558 

10,283,614 
8, 240, 434 
6, 364, 887 
2.070.318 
1.813.944 

608,822 
798, 178 
; 679,  911 

30 

675 

4,985 

21,496 
32.592 
10,000 

591 
870 
400 

13,992 
62,477 

172.267 
382.833 
194.5.56 

4.565 
6.924 
3.173 

2.316.727 
3. 470. 388 
1,541.797 

145,773 
359, 117 
180, 072 

31 

21,800 
4,860 
1,8.56 

465 
24 
16 

18, 986 

337,773 

142,183 

177,626 

11,930 

6.405 
2,261 

3,267.188 

1,099,130 

857,000 

95.000 

3i2,62i 
110. 969 

25, 162 
31,214 

1) 

(') 
3) 

663,988 

219,861 

279,000 

18,  987 

[32 

"■■ 

19.312 
16.715 

r..ooo 

431 

415 

80 

376,081 

481,745 

110,000 

86,446 

6,399 

3.082.132 

2. 196. 600 

990.000 

336,984 

39,097 

622, 980 
798, 0.50 
230,000 
142, 900 

^;« 

2,160 

432 

1.020 

70 

14 
11 

3,472 
7,061 
6,000 

54 

25. 788 
23.500 
12.000 

3,223 

249 

') 
3 
3 
3 

201,333 
85,317 
13,000 

7,937 
16,803 
10,000 

■M 

87. 942 
18,670 
6,808 

2,192 
386 
155 

99,248 
32,000 

909,  743 

459,  767 

71,000 

4,950 

21,287 
6,974 
1.000 

10.938.866 

3. 414. 040 

500.000 

20.000 

708,410 

374,450 

58,000 

1,650,999 

688,271 

U0,000 

7,000 

.5fi 

_ 

0  The  error  referred  to  in  note  7  is  also  contained  in  this  total. 

'  Owing  to  error  in  the  piil)Iished  statistics  for  1880  the  cost  of  cotton  in  Indiana  is  shown  to  be  in  excess  of  the  total  cost  of  all  materials  used. 
■^Included  in  "nil  other  Western  states." 

•Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  1900.  California.  1;  Colorado.  1:  Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1.    1890,  California,  1;  Iowa,  2;  Missouri,  1 
1880,  Michigan,  1;  Minnesota,  1.    1870,  Iowa,  1. 


no 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES    ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900. 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

CHARACTER  OF  ORGANIZATION. 

CAPITAL. 

3TATES. 

Indi- 
vidual. 

Firm  and 
limited 
partner- 
ship. 

Incorpo- 
rated 
company. 

Total. 

Land. 

Buildings. 

Machinery,  to(>Is. 
and  implement.-. 

Cash  on 
hand,  bills  re- 
ceivable, un- 
settled ledger 
accounts,  raw 

material.", 
stock  in  proc- 
ess of  manu- 
facture, tin- 
ished  jirod- 
uctson  hand. 
and  other 
sundries. 

973 

142 

123 

708 

$460,842,772 

$22,546,549.1 

$91,621,757 

$181,009,280 

$16.5.66.5,186 

332 ; 

36 

22 

274 

272,668,914 

14,820,308 

55,523,593 

99,093,175 

103,231,838 

15 
23 

5 
163  I 
71 
55 

225 

15 
20 
5 
138 
58 
38 

70 

21,087,190 
29,261,835 
1,932,983 
155,761,193 
37,274,125 
27,351,588 

59,078,820 

988,306 
1,302,874 

3,498,246 

4,375,217 

451,746 

30,066,848 

10,362,863 

6,778,674 

11,327,917 

7,988,603 
10,007,368 
796,312 
.67,9'2S,100 
12,065.017 
10,307,775 

20,779,919 

8,612,035 

13,576,376 

496,172 

.59  049  499 

New  Hampshire 

2 

1 

188,754 
8.716,746 
2.791,426 

Massachusetts 

14 
8 
12 

75 

11- 
6 
5 

80 

12.064,819 

Connecticut 

832,  202 
3,277,033 

9  432  937 

23, 693. 951 

34 

20 

154 

3 

14 

400 

12 
4 
66 

6 
4 

68 

16 
12 
30 
3 
9 

352 

14,.609,211 

13,989,374 

22,386.121 

484,858 

7,709,266 

124,632,864 

740,927 

800,018 

1,193,676 

27,000 

815, 613 

3,621,305 
2,888,476 
3,364,273 
98,260 
1,355,603 

23,741,094 

5,341,881 
5,128,363 
8, 152, 753 
205,789 
1,951,133 

69, 179, 798 

4,80.5,098 
5  172  517 

New  Jersey 

9, 67.5.  .520 
153  809 

Delaware 

3 
30 

2 
18 

3,8.S7,007 
37,361  432 

4,260,540 

Virginia 

7 
177 
80 
67 
31 
6 
4 
6 
17 
5 

16 

7 

149 

75 

59 

31 

5 

4 

6 

13 

3 

12 

4,403,206 
33,011,516 
39, 258, 946 
24,158,159 
11,638,757 
2,209,749 
2,227,184 
1,867,605 
3,767,726 
1,990,016 

4,562,174 

108, 559 
1,395,341 

805,  742 
1,166, '237 

327, 152 
46,014 
64,869 
77,016 

182,243 

107,367 

198,668 

784,481 

5,848,808 

7,705,755 

4,701,906 

2,364,991 

438, 105 

373,234 

273, 428 

891,197 

369, 189 

1,029,153 

2,236,136 

16.290,4.57 

18,748.418 

10,828,803 

5,198,990 

1,050,665 

922, 991 

869, 363 

1,832,928 

1,201,047 

1,9.56,388 

1,274,030 
9  476  910 

North  Carolina 

16 

4 
7 

12 
1 

1 

South  Carolina 

11.999,031 

3,  747,  624 

Mississippi 

1 

674  965 

Texas 

866,090 
647  798 

Kentucky 

2 

1 

1 

2 

1 

3 

891,3.58 
322, 413 

1.377  965 

All  other  Southern  states ' 
Western  states 

3 
4 
3 
6 

1 

1 

1 
1 

1 
3 
2 

6 

168,492 
l.ff78, 141 

467,808 
2,247,733 

700 
60,900 
34,250 
102,818 

21,600 
373, 097 

75,760 
558,706 

56. 813 
715,980 
185,900 
997,695 

89. 379 

Indiana 

828  164 

171  908 

All  other  Western  states  i 

888, 514 

Proprie- 
tors and 

firm 
members. 

SAl.AKI] 

:;d  officials,  clerks. 

ETC. 

Total 
number. 

Total 
salaries. 

;officers  0 

f  corporations. 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. 

Number 

Salaries. 

Total 
number. 

Total  salaries. 

1 

Men.                               \\ 

omen. 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Number. 

Salaries. 

United  States  . 

389 

4,713 

$7,123,574 

1,179 

83,034,116 

3,534 

$4,089,468 

3,220 

S3. 959. 165 

314 

8130, 293 

New  England  states 

72 

1,988 

3,706,238 

412 

1,561,045 

1,576 

2,144,193 

1,402          2,068,702 

174 

75. 491 

1 

100 
175 
20 
1,080 
332 
281 

907 

231,815 
370,  777 
26, 579 
2,013,902 
666,541 
395,624 

1,303,339 

33 
35 
8 
220 
68 
48 

127 

124,600 
126,660 
11,500 
961,380 
218,384 
128. 631 

410, 147 

67 
140 

12 
860 
264 
233 

780 

107,315 
244, 127 
15, 079 
1,062.522 
448, 167 
266,993 

893, 192 

63 
129 

12 
733 
253 
212 

706 

105,515 
238, 457 
15,079 
1,009,  ,543 
442,521 
257,587 

862, 481 

4 
11 

1,800 

37 
15 
19 

249 

i27 
11 
21 

74 

52. 979 

Rhode  Island 

6.636 

9,406 

Middle  states  ... 

30, 711 

New  York 

25 

10 

207 

156 
141 
815 
11 
84 

1,754 

226, 701 
250,548 
677,303 
15,449 
133,338 

2,008,662 

31 
17 

64 
1 
14 

618 

79,380 

73.425 

192,  361 

6.000 

58,981 

1,015,324 

125 

124 

481 

10 

70 

1,136 

147,  321 

177, 123 

484, 942 

9,449 

74,357 

993,338 

114 

119 

394 

10 

69 

1,073 

143,025 

174,966 

460,984 

9,449 

74,057 

970,471 

11 

5 

57 

4,296 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania  . 

2,157 
23.958 

Delaware 

Maryland 

7 
62 

1 
63 

300 

'»,867 

Virginia 

32 

659 

415 

332 

159 

46 

21 

24 

47 

19 

64 

50,387 

586, 730 

537,193 

430,601 

197,700 

60, 212 

31,388 

33,  761 

54.364 

26, 426 

106,335 

15 

248 

133 

111 

66 

10 

7 

9 

25 

4 

22 

29,065 

288,674 

286, 320 

206,274 

102,971 

18,600 

17,  .W3 

17,800 

37,517 

10,  700 

47,600 

17 

411 

282 

221 

103 

36 

14 

15 

22 

15 

42 

ei,322 

298, 156 

250,873 

224, 227 

94,729 

41,612 

13,885 

15,961 

16,847 

15,726 

58,735 

7,060 
14,364 

2,720 
34,601 

17 

395 

262 

201 

98 

35 

13 

15 

21 

13 

39 

21,322 

293, 155 

243,733 

217.386 

93.049 

40,892 

13,285 

15,961 

16,607 

18,081 

57,511 

North  Carolina 

41 
5 
10 

16 
20 
17 
S 

1 
1 

8,001 

7.140 

6.841 

1,680 

2 

720 

Texas 

600 

Tennessee 

3 
1 

6 

1 
2 

3 

240 

All  other  Southern  states' 

645 
1,224 

1 
3 
2 

12 

18 

5 

29 

11,250 
34,264 
6,220 
55  601 

3 

8 
2 
9 

4,200 
19,900 

2,500 
21,000 

9 
10 

3 
20 

8 
9 
3 
19 

6,790 
14,000 

2,720 
34.001 

1 
1 

260 

Indiana 

364 

All  other  Western  states^ 

1 

600 

1 

Hncludea  establishments  distributed 
Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


as  follows:   Southern  states— Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states— California,  1;  Colorado,  1* 


COl^rON  MANUFACTURES.  61 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES  ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900-Continued. 


United  States 

New  England  states 

Maine 

New  Hunipsliire 

Vermont  

Altis-achusi'tts 

Kli.i.U-  I-laiid 

Connoi-ticut 

Middle  states 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Southern  states 

Virginia 

North  Carolina 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Alabama 

Mississippi 

Texas 

Kentucky  

Tennessee 

All  otherSouthern  states^ 

Western  states 

Ohio 

Indiana 

Wisconsin 

All  other  Western  states  i. 


WAGE-EARNERS,  INCLUDING   PIECEWORKERS,  AND  TOTAL  WAGES. 


Greatest 
number 
employed 
at  any  one 
time  dur- 
ing the 
year. 


323,913 


173,562 


14,262 
21,323 
1,226 
99,001 
23. 272 
14,476 

38,309 


9,341 
!i,980 
17,328 
629 
5,031 

108,506 


3,078 

33, 621 

33,298 

20, 494 

9,553 

1,877 

1.290 

1,431 

2, 485 

1,379 

3,536 


117 
1,637 

387 
1,495 


Least 

number 

employed 

at  any  one 

time'dur- 

ing  the 

year. 


275, 369 


149,814 


13,378 
19,  .542 
901 
82,  il91 
20, 4S4 
12,618 

31,912 


8,202 
5, 166 
13, 833 
204 
4,507 

90,528 


2,746 

28,256 

27, 678 

17, 023 

7,  .519 

1,432 

1,094 

1,250 

2,190 

1,340 

3,115 


80 

1,358 

315 

1,362 


.\verage 
number. 


162,294 


13, 723 
20,461 
1,015 
92,085 
21,823 
13,194 

34,843 


8,659 
5,518 
15,567 
372 
4,727 

97,494 


2,931 

30,273 

30,201 

18,283 

8,332 

1,675 

984 

1,351 

2, 108 

1,3,56 

3,298 


106 
1,421 

347 
1, 424 


Total  wages.' 


S85,126,310 


65,367,541 


4,330,297 
6, 7.59, 422 
259, 7.58 
32, 327,  443 
7,297,119 
4, 393,  ,502 

11, 396, 710 


2,582,394 
1, 8^7,119 
5, 602. 339 
'  138,  Mi 
1,186,014 

17,601,648 


668,556 

5, 127, 087 

6,066.840 

3,  .566, 951 

1,482,226 

339, 546 

2.53, 630 

280, 407 

422, 935 

293,470 

860,411 


27, 861 
323, 949 

80,567 
428, 034 


Men,  16  years  and  over. 


Average 
number. 


Wages, 


U6, 923, 365 


78,217 


31,083,393 


6,197 
9,229 
438 
45,105 
10,330 
6,918  1 

14,473 


2, 342, 275 
3,  .599,  .509 
131,465 
18,298,4.57 
4, 062.  .510 
2,649,147 


6, 132, 


7ib 


4,094 
2,088 
6,737 
108 
1,446 

40,528 


1,280 

12,780 

13,418 

7,309 

3, 152 

526 

497 

430 

807 

329 

1,136 


1,412,902 

1,002,178 

3, 149, 4.55 

58,885 

509,356 

9,320,597 


24 
376 
131 
605 


392,  .540 

2, 766, 457 

2, 785. 2,85 

1,81.5,126 

789, 225 

153, 8.59 

164,325 

126, 130 

214,140 

114.510 

386, 599 


11,482 
123,2.59 

39. 170 
212,688 


Women,  16  years  and  over. 


Average 
number. 


123, 709 


73,258 


6,760 
10, 362 
495 
41,057 
9,240 
6,344 

16,056 


3,761 
2,789 
7,119 
222 
2,165 

32,528 


1,000 

10,364 

8, 673 

6, 495 

2,743 

683 

302 

.591 

918 

7.59 

1,867 


82 
997 
191 
597 


Wages. 


832,917,933 


22,236,019 


1,864,336 
2, 9%,  626 
114,376 
12.855,112 
2,813,883 
1,591,688 

4,589,949 


1,024,846 
792,990 

2,194,413 

67,700 

510,001 

5,669,916 


202,906 

1.629,036 

1,477,621 

1,270,434 

463, 244 

128, 209 

64,997 

116,081 

168, 135 

149, 253 

422,049 


16, 379 
195, 150 

38,750 
171, 770 


Children  under  16  years. 


Average 
number. 


Wages. 


39,866 


$5,285,012 


10,819 


766 
863 
82 
6,923 
2,253 
932 

4,314 


804 
Ml 

1,711 
42 

1,116 

24,438 


651 

7,129 

8,110 

4,479 

2,437 

466 

185 

330 

383 

268 

295 


48 

25 

222 


2,048,129 


123,687 
163, 287 
13,918 
1,173,874 
420, 696 
162,  667 

673, 985 


144, 647 
91,9.51 

258,471 
12,259 

166, 6.57 

2,611,135 


73.110 

732, 594 

803, 934 

481,391 

229, 757 

57,478 

24,308 

38,196 

40,660 

29,707 

61,763 


6,  .540 

2,647 

43. 876 


United  States 

New  England  states 

Maine 

New  Hampshire 

Vermont 

iiftssachusetts 

Rhode  Island 

Connecticut 

Middle  states 

New  York  

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Southern  states 

Virginia 

North  Carolina 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

-Alabama 

Mississippi 

Texas 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

All  other  Southern  states ' 

Western  states 

Ohio 

Indiana  

Wisconsin 

All  other  Western  states  i. 


WAGE-EARXERS,  INCLUDING   PIECEWORKERS,  AND  TOTAL  WAGES. 


Men,  16  years  and  over. 


January.      February.     March.       April.         May.         June.         July.         August.      September.     October.     November.  December. 


134,941 


136,497 


77,972 


6,212 
9,156 
421 
44, 990 
10,287 
6,906 

14,607 


4  099 
2,0.51 
6, 872 
129 
1,456 

41,248 


1,249 

12, 921 

13, 961 

7,240 

3,  V20 

461 

489 

433 

844 

330 


18 
373 
124 


78, 428 


6,243 

9,219 

457 

45,219 

10,341 

6,949 

14, 608 


4,182 
1,9.59 
6,917 
112 
1,438 

41,327 


1,2.51 

12,813 

13,810 

7,596 

3,308 

490 

484 

411 

838 

326 

1,134 


136,254 


78,951 


6,253 
9,259 
435 
45, 596 
10,481 
6,927 

14, 719 


4,193 
2,103 
6,813 
1.58 
1,452 

41,432 


23 
385 
127 
599 


1,264 

12,813 

13,946 

7,  .516 

3,308 

492 

488 

442 

842 

331 


23 
401 

138 
590 


134,684 


135,649 


78,674 


6,260 
9, 259 
437 
45,623 
10,460 
6,738 

13,760 


4,165 
2,089 
5,849 
189 
1,478 

41, 116 


1,262 

12,998 

13,240 

7,753 

3,259 

507 

488 

424 

853 

331 


78,236 


6,186 
9,096 
418 
45, 428 
10,389 
6,719 

14,682 


4,115 
2,116 
6,814 
191 
1,446 

41,462 


1,268 

13,186 

13,372 

7, 6,52 

3, 268 

498 

.574 

415 

898 

331 

1,169 


23 
410 
137 
599 


133,099 


132, 161 


129,830 


77,906 


,583 


75,649 


78,042 


6,177 
9,141 

429 
45,138 
10, 279 
6,742 

14,384 


4,054 
2,051 
6,785 
37 
1,487 

39,689 


1,283 

12,655 

13,044 

7,225 

2,893 

484 

583 

430 

763 

329 

1, 120 


6,158 
9,142 
448 
44,758 
10, 280 
6,797 

14,293 


6,131 
9, 125 
425 
42, 9.55 
10, 178 
6,835 

14,265 


3,934 
2,095 
6, 745 
61 
1,4.58 

39, 161 


1,287 

12, 435 

13, 025 

6. 993 

2,873 

539 

474 

437 

766 

332 

1,114 


23 
360 

140 
,597 


25 
3.59 
130 
600 


3,942 
2,082 
6,722 
65 
1,454 

38,797 


1,295 

12,231 

12,905 

6,863 

2, 949 

5.50 

478 

433 

767 

326 

1,119 


6,106 
9,235 
427 
4.5,110 
10,214 
6,961 

14, 472 


3,966 
2,071 
6,919 
80 
1,436 

39,488 


25 
365 

127 
602 


1,304 

12, 632 

13,0.56 

7,007 

2,940 

573 

471 

432 

760 

313 

1,137 


134,265 


78,288 


6,165 
9,280 
431 
45, 127 
10,233 
7, 052 

14,584 


4,134 
2,140 
6,814 
S3 
1,413 

40,264 


25 
366 

128 
618 


1,298 

12, 752 

13,2S3 

7,233 

3,081 

570 

474 

450 

781 

332 

1,139 


135.622 


78,894 


6,197 
9,407 
4.58 
45,336 
10, 302 
7,194 

14,694 


137,217 


79,977 


6,274 
9,431 
468 
46, 082 
10, 510 
7,212 

14,620 


4,167 
2,159 

6,847 

94 

1,427 

40,889 


1,308 

12,874 

13,  ,569 

7,268 

3,290 

574 

474 

425 

776 

331 


4,192 
2,142 
6,749 
102 
1,435 

41,468 


25 
366 

128 
620 


25 
369 
129 
622 


1,305 

13.0.57 

13,802 

7,359 

3,334 

576 

4.S3 

427 

793 

332 


25 
369 
131 
627 


I  Includes  establishments  distributed 
Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1, 


as  follows:  Southern  states— Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states— California,  1;  Colorado,  1; 


62  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES    ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued. 


WAGE-EAKNERS,  INCLUDINfi    PIECEWOKKF.RS,  AND  TOTAL  WAGES— Continued. 

STATES. 

Women,  16 

years  and 

over. 

January. 

February. 

March. 

April. 

May. 

June. 

July. 

August. 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

United  States     

124,486 

124,952 

125,805 

125,285 

124,780 

122,513 

121,292 

119,108 

121,370 

123,746 

124,998 

126, 173 

73,490 

73,666 

74, 296 

73,859 

73,384 

72,920 

72,639 

70,700 

71,964 

73,362 

74,012 

74,909 

6,793 
10, 268 
467 
41.344 
9,228 
.5,390 

16,227 

6.801 

10, 375 

500 

41,221 

9,228 

5,441 

16,239 

6,697 
10,576 
.503 
11,870 
9,291 
5,3.58 

16,287 

6,791 
10,418 
529 
41,692 
9,258 
5,171 

16,258 

6,741 
10,215 
514 
41,871 
9, 260 
5,083 

16,281 

6,673 

10,025 

494 

41,388 

9,163 

5,177 

15,952 

6,687 
10,349 
504 
40,  706 
9,201 
5, 192 

15,656 

6,710 
10,345 
490 
as, 742 
9,149 
5,264 

15,637 

6,727 
10,3.54 
487 
39,819 
9,191 
6,386 

16,879 

6,781 
10, 448 
476 
40,894 
9,251 
5,512 

15,999 

6,832 
10,483 
491 
41,384 
9.246 
6,876 

16,160 

6,892 

10,484 

Vermont                    ... 

486 

42, 0.57 

Rhode  Island 

9,417 
5,573 

16,098 

Middle  states 

3,782 
2,805 
7,219 
251 
2,170 

32,950 

3,827 
2,747 
7,215 
294 
2,156 

33,287 

3,847 
2,808 
7,156 
329 
2,147 

33,336 

3,856 
2,757 
7,121 
346 
2,179 

33,239 

3,798 
2,788 
7,175 
348 
2,172 

33,175 

3,798 
2,782 
7,089 
98 
2,185 

31,823 

3,598 
2,776 
6,983 
115 
2,184 

31,170 

3,  .560 
2,740 
7,014 
149 
2,184 

30,933 

3,580 
2,776 
7,186 
171 
2,168 

31,658 

3,772 
2.807 
7.095 
173 
2,152 

32,512 

3,827 
2,886 
7,147 
188 
2,142 

32,959 

3,891 

New  Jersey 

2,825 

7,031 
206 

Delaware 

2,146 

33,277 

898 

10,620 

8,990 

6,405 

2,869 

591 

294 

586 

944 

754 

1,819 

921 

10, 4.53 

8,920 

6,8.59 

2,907 

626 

290 

602 

952 

7.57 

1,860 

942 

10, 638 

8,983 

6,669 

2,931 

626 

286 

660 

949 

752 

1,887 

1,016 

10, 634 

8,636 

6,806 

2,880 

636 

282 

604 

993 

752 

1,929 

1,023 

10, 573 

8,606 

6.690 

2.902 

633 

394 

593 

995 

766 

1,940 

1,028 

10,289 

8,426 

6,331 

2,608 

617 

388 

695 

875 

766 

1,818 

1,012 

9,893 

8,498 

6,078 

2,470 

713 

284 

603 

853 

766 

1,828 

1,010 

9,803 

8,301 

6,081 

2,496 

735 

280 

691 

874 

762 

1,838 

1,028 

10,081 

8,  .500 

6,299 

2,  .553 

743 

275 

573 

864 

742 

1,869 

1,045 

10. 339 

8.667 

6.  .525 

2,665 

763 

277 

579 

908 

754 

1,873 

1,032 

10, 4.58 

8,707 

6,616 

2,833 

758 

285 

606 

905 

760 

1,867 

1,042 

North  Carolina 

10,589 

8,838 

Georgia 

6,581 

2,903 

Mississippi 

769 

Texas 

284 

Kentuc'liv 

604 

909 

All  other  Southern  states^ 

768 
1,889 

Ohio 

62 
989 
185 
583 

75 

1,013 

184 

588 

76 

1,035 

193 

583 

85 

1,069 

191 

.584 

83 

1,079 

186 

692 

80 
952 
196 
590 

87 
955 
190 
696 

84 
962 
193 
699 

88 
979 
194 
608 

89 
980 
193 
611 

92 
961 
194 
620 

89 

Indiana 

986 

195 

All  other  Western  states^. 

619 

WAGE-EARNERS,  INCLUDING  PIECEWORKERS,  AND  TOTAL  WAGES— Continued. 

STATES. 

Children,  under  16  yeara. 

January. 

February. 

March. 

April. 

May. 

June. 

July. 

August. 

September. 

October. 

November. 

December. 

United  States 

40, 676 

40,363 

40,646 

40,137 

40,450 

39,229 

38,737 

38,463 

39,046 

39,664 

40,330 

40,651 

New  England  states 

10,972 

10,788 

10,877 

10,744 

10,722 

10,766 

10,768 

10,663 

10,789 

10,780 

10,979 

10,980 

Maine 

765 

866 

79 

6,101 

2, 247 

914 

4,358 

758 
867 
82 
5,902 
2,260 
929 

4,283 

768 

879 

92 

.5,914 

2,307 

917 

4,343 

761 

864 

80 

5,877 

2,237 

926 

4,298 

753 

849 

87 

5,881 

2,241 

911 

4,340 

782 

863 

87 

5,860 

2,248 

926 

4,218 

790 

866 

79 

6,,S42 

2, 263 

938 

4,232 

784 

859 

80 

8,713 

2,279 

948 

4,270 

756 

846 

85 

5,956 

2,223 

925 

4,307 

749 

866 

78 

5,950 

2,197 

950 

4,367 

7.55 
873 
83 
6.028 
2,278 
962 

4,415 

768 

878 

Massachusetts 

6,053 
2  263 

Rhode  Island 

910 

Middle  states  . 

4  3''9 

NewYorlc 

798 
629 

1,7.51 
57 

1.123 

25,063 

807 
683 

1,724 
61 

1,108 

25,008 

819 
625 

1,741 

60 

1,098 

26,144 

793 
622 

1,704 
75 

1,104 

24,810 

794 
642 

1,703 
80 

1,121 

26,104 

800 
643 

1,637 
20 

1,118 

23,958 

785 
664 

1,641 
20 

1,122 

23,443 

767 
670 

1,688 
20 

1,165 

23,236 

779 
662 

1,723 
20 

1,123 

23,637 

807 
645 

1,782 
27 

1,106 

24,205 

889 
661 

1,764 
26 

1,105 

24,624 

840 

651 

Pennsylvania 

1  701 

Delaware 

32 

1,105 
25,032 

Virginia 

626 

7,378 

8,362 

4,599 

2,504 

412 

178 

336 

414 

264 

283 

628 

7,269 

8,224 

4,723 

2,531 

443 

179 

340 

405 

266 

284 

644 

7,391 

8,297 

4,683 

2,508 

438 

185 

317 

404 

277 

282 

654 

7,410 

7, 942 

4,704 

2,461 

444 

168 

331 

425 

271 

285 

665 

7,463 

8,043 

4,730 

2,483 

442 

244 

328 

433 

273 

284 

672 

6,991 

7,870 

4,446 

2,337 

427 

267 

318 

354 

276 

287 

644 

6,736 

7,901 

4,243 

2,325 

469 

186 

315 

363 

271 

294 

651 

6,644 

7,878 

4,124 

2,319 

489 

165 

330 

362 

274 

294 

648 

6,909 

7,984 

4,181 

2,306 

601 

161 

341 

351 

258 

313 

660 

7,040 

8,140 

4.360 

2,371 

511 

156 

329 

363 

275 

312 

689 

7,160 

8,273 

4,459 

2,437 

807 

163 

337 

363 

262 

312 

659 

South  Carolina 

8  4*^0 

Alabama 

Mississippi . 

2,662 
510 

Texas 

169 

Kentucky. . 

332 

All  other  Southern  states' 

257 

Ohio 

48 

25 

210 

48 

26 

211 

48 
25 
209 

48 

25 

212 

48 

25 

211 

48 

25 

214 

48 
25 
221 

48 

25 

221 

48 
25 
240 

48 

26 

239 

48 
25 
239 

Indiana 

25 

All  other  Western  states' 

1 

'  Includes  establishments  distributed 
Illinois,  1;  Mis.soud,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


as  follows:  Southern  states— Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states— California,  1;  Colorado,  1; 


CO'I  TON   MANUFACTURES.  tj^ 

Tablk  34— cotton  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES    ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued. 


Men,  16 

years  and 

over. 


Unitetl  States  . 
New  England  stiites 


Maine 

New  Uanipshire 

Vcrnumt 

Massa('liiisi'tt.s 

Khd.lc.  Island 

('onnuctirut 


Middle  states  . 


New  York 

New  Jersey  ... 
Pennsylvania. 

Delaware 

Marvlaiid 


Southern  states . 


Virginia 

North  Carolina 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Alabama 

Mississippi 

Texas 

Kentueky 

Tennessee 

A 1 1  other  Southern  states  i 


Western  states . 


Ohio 

Indiana 

Wiseonsiii 

All  other  Western  states'. 


SKILLED  OPERATIVES   BY   CLASSES.      (AVERAGE  NUMBER.) 


Spinners,  mule. 


6,328 


Women, 

16  years 

and  over 


108 


3,973 


240 
3.52 
37 
2,24ft 
748 
351 


40 


40 


194 
■235 


42 
45 
128 
49 


Children, 

under  16 

years. 


563 


130 


Spinners,  frame 


Men,  16 

years  and 

over. 


Women, 

16  years 
and  over. 


7,323 


3,013 


198 
283 
11 
1,918 
326 
277 

595 


295 
18 

191 
37 
54 

3,692 


120 
,392 
,347 

372 

207 
10 
86 
17 

112 
29 


Children, 

under  16 

years. 


19,171 


10,640 


1,081 
1,618 
41 
6,259 
1,024 
617 

1,356 


392 
77 
395 
105 

387 


176 
2,624 

1,984 
873 
460 
136 
35 
108 
217 
177 

395 


186 
28 
181 


16,513 


2,477 


193 
354 
18 
1,110 
566 
236 

761 


295 

.54 

226 

7 

169 

13, 173 


424 

4,241 

4,913 

2,571 

330 

165 

61 

89 

223 

156 

112 


Weavers. 


Men,  16 

years  and 

over. 


Women,  Children, 
16  years  |  under  16 
and  over,     years. 


41,776 


28,666 


1,945 
1,933 
86 
14,088 
3,632 
2, 022 

4,670 


28,804 


877 

373 

3,180 

33 

207 

13,247 


441 

3,739 

.5,343 

2,196 

936 

105 

114 

27 

317 

29 


2,600 
4,501 
146 
16,557 
3,404 
1,596 

6,085 


1,856 
246 

3,001 
141 
843 

12,202 


3 

1 

43 

156 


573 
3,265 
3,641 

2,577 
738 
319 
98 
214 
353 
424 

860 


17 

485 

67 

281 


1,798 


590 


36 

7 

511 

27 
9 


36 
1,076 


12 
243 
594 
90 
44 
66 


MACHINERY. 


Produeing  spindles.     (Not  ineluding 
twisting  and  doubling  spindles.) 


iTotal  number. 


19,008,352 


12,860,987 


841,521 
1,243,555 

100,028 
7,784,687 
1,880,622 
1,000,674 

1,647,251 


720, 268 
431,730 
306,637 
34,5.52 
154.004 

4, 298, 188 


126, 827 
1,133,432 
1,431.349 

816,  .545 

411,328 
75,122 
48,756 
66, 633 

123,8% 
65,300 

211,926 


102,488 
21,4% 
87, 942 


Mule. 


Number. 


6,563,480 


4,477,199 


266,948 
287,165 
43,316 
2, 656, 316 
940,328 
393, 126 

868, 675 


367, 136 
367, 092 
124,447 


180,534 


2,326 
35,352 
10, 762 
84,926 

8,000 


18,399 
20, 780 


16,320 
2,816 
27,936 


Frame. 


Number. 


13,444,872 


8,373,788 


584,573 
956  390 
66, 712 
6,228,371 
940,294 
607,448 

788.576 


353, 132 
64,638 

182, 190 
34,562 

1M,064 

4,117,654 


1J4,602 
1,098,080 
1,420,  .597 

730,619 

403, 328 
75, 1-22 
48,756 
48,234 

103,116 
65,300 

164,854 


86,168 
18,680 
60,006 


MACHINERY — continued. 


Total 
number. 


United  States 

New  England  states 

Maine 

New  Hampshire 

Vermont 

Ma.s.saehusetts 

Rhode  Island 

Connecticut 

Middle  states 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Pennsylvania 

Delaware 

Maryland 

Southern  states 

Virginia  

Nortli  Carolina 

South  Carolina 

Georgia 

Alabama 

Mississipj)! 

Texas 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

All  other  Southern  states' 

Western  states 

Ohio 

Indiana 

Wisconsin 

All  other  Western  states ' 


450, 682 


298,885 


23,366 
35,123 
2,099 
179, 280 
39,  472 
19,545 

S6, 134 


14,545 
2, 226 

15, 815 

738 

2,810 

110,010 


4,608 

25, 469 

42, 663 

19, 393 

8,649 

2,464 

1,018 

991 

2,995 

1,860 

5,663 


158 
:,  712 

691 
;,  192 


On  plain  cloths. 


Less 
than 

28 
inches 
wide. 


Num- 
ber. 


36,601 


16, 765 


2,005 

214 

1,653 

11,079 

1.719 

95 

6,442 


5,476 
278 
406 


282 
12,374 


2,258 

7,241 

2,171 

316 

36 


362 


20 


20 


From- 
28  to  32 
inches 
wide. 


Num- 
ber. 


98,995 


77, 326 


5,226 

14,628 

430 

61,177 

2, 222 

3,744 

3,023 


939 

104 

1,456 


524 
17,930 


157 
3,305 
5,664 
4,409 
1,866 
1,094 

498 


608 
329 

716 


623 
'193' 


From 
32  to  36 
inches 
wide, 
inclu- 
sive. 


Num- 
ber. 


79,349 


37, 722 


2,581 
6,265 


25,336 
2, 567 


3,501 


1,695 

13 

1,025 


768 
34,446 


3,264 

15, 939 

6, 6.52 

3,441 

734 

204 

916 

1,366 

1,037 

3,680 


677 
,109 


More 
than  36 
inches 
wide. 


Num- 
ber. 


126,082 


84, 916 


9,175 
7,799 
16 
39,415 
19, 581 


6,040 
324 

1,641 
238 
•892 

32,323 


713 

7,111 
15,040 
6,261 
2,663 


808 


2 
200 


On 

twills 

and 

sateens. 


Num- 
ber. 


68,839 


47,080 


2,018 
5,627 


28, 213 
7,8.52 
3,370 

3,403 


1,050 

660 

1,656 


8,356 


1,499 

3, 729 

1,163 

183 

636 

244 


313 
200 


On 
fancy 


Num- 
ber. 


45, 686 


31,635 


1,428 
335 


23, 748 
3, 948 
2,179 

10,031 


156 
655 
8,476 
500 
244 

3,856 


198 
2, 735 
100 
463 
360 


164 


On 

tapes 
and 
other 


On 
bags 
and 
other 


narrow  special 
goods,  fabrics. 


Num- 
ber. 


1,586 


1,586 


123 


Num- 
ber. 


4,421 


1,865 


934 
355 


312 
'284 

1,576 


183 

192 

1,177 


24 

725 


314 

20 
129 


151 


14 
100 


MISCELLANEOtJS  EXPENSES. 


Total 
amount. 


821,650,144 


13, 098, 849 


1,440,425 
1,502,420 
43,282 
7,243,357 
1,680,869 
1,288,506 

3,  567, 960 


909,351 

403,119 

1,862,026 

6,448 

397,016 

4, 780, 635 


135, 173 

1,030,918 

1,507,824 

1,041,863 

511,2% 

117,117 

113, 156 

105, 796 

142, 878 

74, 614 

202,700 


17,812 
71,648 
13,992 
99,248 


Rent  of 
works. 


Amount. 


8691,075 


497, 826 


S,600 
1,600 


13, 714 

464, 464 

14,568 

180, 147 


24,943 

5,585 

141,464 


8,166 
7,478 


1,800 
2,776 


2,078 
450 


6,624 


4,844 
"'780' 


Taxes. 


Rent  of 
offices,  in 
surance,  in- 
terest, etc 


Amount. 


$3,521,606 


$15,844,509  $1,592,954 


2,586,232 


242,230 
314, 357 
6,650 
1,654,300 
240, 778 
127, 917 

279, 546 


135,327 
55,078 
52,863 
1,761 
34,517 

630,340 


24,620 

135,963 

206,355 

178,564 

42,809 

12,367 

6,105 

9,843 

12,468 

1,246 

26,488 


1,728 
12,455 
3,934 
8,371 


Contract 
work. 


Amount. 


9,247,640 


768, 151 


788,376 

1, 173, 856 

37,632 

5,391,813 

763,537 
1,092,427 


406,220 
12. 707 

iss.'sso 

112,090 
53,601 


2,385,463  [      722,804 

169,248 

3,724 

649. 832 


579, 833 

338. 732 

1,107,867 

4,687 

364,344  I 

4,040,818  ■ 


108,753 

865,958 
1,267,597 
831,920 
468. 487 
104,375 
107, 051 

83,349 
129,960 

73,368 

170,588 


11,240 
59,193 
10,088 
90,097 


26,222 
33,872 
31,379 


10,526 


1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Southern  states- 
Illinois,  1:  Mis.souri,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


-Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states— California,  1:  Colorado,  1; 


64  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES   ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued. 


MATERIALS   USED. 

[ 

Total  cost. 

Cotton. 

Sea  island. 

Other  domest 

c. 

■ 

Egyptian  and  otlier  foreign. 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Bales. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

I'nited  States 

$173,441,390 

47,207 

18,442,634 

82,725,023 

3,516,080 

1,739,714,946 

$116,108,879 

76,208 

55,844,932 

86,071,173 

91,727,594 

36,-674 

14,416,364 

2,133,804 

1,719,622 

874,011,257 

58.329,174 

66,464 

48,977,406 

5,321,948 

Maine       

7,036,287 

11,960,102 

526,235 

.54, 068. 038 
10.601.006 
7,535.926 

23,650,270 

166,674 
271,262 

12, 493 

1,015,305 

170, 614 

93,374 

272,947 

79, 212, 256 

136,805,127 

6, 410, 674 

517,088.846 

86. 712. 235 

47.  782, 119 

135,004,971 

5,400,379 
9, 394, 629 
38.5,461 
33,771,414 
6,074,331 
3.303,060 

9,327,774 

754 

367 

555 

48,257 

8,686 

7,845 

9,195 

553,317 

183,620 

417,729 

36,292,324 

6,576,088 

5,955,428 

6,476,727 

62  914 

18,997 

46  994 

21,474 
7,308 
7, 892 

10,146 

8, 502, 845 
2,785,257 
3,128,262 

3,872,270 

1,194.021 
472, 340 
467,443 

568,219 

3,944,845 

692, 178 

656,019 

700,036 

5,257,419 
2,926,876 
12,238,660 
187.919 
3,039,396 

56,138,869 

1,649 
8,497 

659,600 
3, 212, 670 

106,015 
462,204 

99.064 
15, 872 
74,382 
2,675 
80,9.54 

1,477,775 

50,464,770 
8, 183, 469 

35,083,214 
1,371,563 

39,901,955 

707,159,521 

3,513,661 
541,858 

2,621.768 
106.368 

2,644,129 

46,988,926 

1,877 
5,275 
2,043 

1, 118, 679 
3,891,729 
1,466,319 

123,591 
407,681 

168.764 

387 

154,000 

23,000 

649 

390,799 

49, 189 

1,412,332 

17, 386, 624 

17,263,882 

11,113.3.56 

4.825,981 

767, 327 

641,341 

972.  244 

1,143,234 

612,  .548 

1,924,657 

38,118 

404,148 

485,024 

303, 836 

134.  371 

20, 962 

18,046 

23, 982 

30, 234 

19,056 

45,736 

17,832,465 

1.89,984,759 

229,899,760 

145,470,324 

67,987.299 

10,363,458 

9,304.434 

11,971,815 

16,028.584 

9, 316,  623 

23,539,197 

1,154,215 

13,604,720 

14,909,520 

9,66.5,464 

4,206,721 

623,  .576 

666, 517 

770,363 

982,146 

605,684 

1,463,005 

North  Carolina  

387 

154,000 

23,000 

210 
30O 

l.M,047 
225,000 

20  026 

27,000 

1 

39 

11,752 

2,163 

Ohii)              

142,090 
700, 557 
172,267 
909, 743 

19,884 

4,565 

21,287 

10,283,614 
2,316,727 
10,938,856 

608,822 
145,  773 
708,410 

Wisconsin     . .      .  . 

1 

MATERIALS  USED— Continued. 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill. 

Cotton. 

Woolen. 

Worsted. 

Silk. 

Spun  silk. 

Other  yarns. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds.       Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

83,832,216 

815,749,536  |     435,361 

$176, 467 

687,019 

$415,904 

298, 716 

81,158,321 

208,403 

$625,658 

2, 174, 275 

S.520.2i'( 

New  England  states 

26,066,156 

5.744,449       120,776 

29,960 

113,850 

89,417 

216,040 

895,989 

78,679 

306,273 

1  247  062  1       276  745 

Maine 

1,417,213 

821.587 

74.349 

14,770,086 

4,114,408 

4,868,512 

42,487,453 

225,219 

124, 337 

10,836 

3,307.608 

924, 946 

1 

83,200 
10, 311 

20,800 

3,752 

Vennont 

-.   - 

Mas.^achusetts 

120, 776 

29,  %0 

113,850 

89, 417 

142,249 

676, 210 

7ft  fi7Q 

306,273 

1,005,784 
121,727 
26, 040 

720,587 

219,561 
27,319 

Rhode  Island 

1,151,503 

73,791 
82, 676 

219, 779 
262,332 

6,323 

8,102,738 

313,885 

146,257 

573, 169 

326.487 

129,724 

319,385 

209,424 

New  York 

3,283,664 
1,790,312 
36,304.919 

182. 089 
926, 469 

14.206,608 

778,826 

424.569 

6.741.518 

40.369 

117,456 

1,771,469 

50 

45 

5 
13,020 
69, 651 

26 
66,335 
195.971 

100 

200 

129,424 

300 

600 

318,485 

178,523 

95,000 

403,979 

44,478 
46,800 

313,835 

146,212 

573,169 

326,487 

110,040 

Maryland 

43,085            8,106 

Southern  states 

700 

250 

188, 926          32, 754 

1 

Virginia 

231,372 

10,284,488 

2,866,925 

76.026 

650,000 

33,281 

1,268,058 

365, 106 

10, 775 

80,000 

148,689 
4,237 

31,225 

1,079 

Georgia 

36, 666                 4,50 

Mississippi 

Kentucky 

11,. 527 
28, 670 
57,600 

1,072,000 

2,439 
3,070 
8,740 

130.880 

700 

250 

.\11  other  Southern  states' 

Western  states 

.     ..     .1 

17,700  1           1,300 

1 

Ohio 

1,040.000 

125,400 

1 

17,700 

1,300 

Indiana 

26,000 
6,000 

4,400 
1,080 

,\  11  ot  h  e  r  Western  states  1 . 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Southern  states — Arkansas,  2:  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.     Western  states — California,  1;  Colorado,  1; 
Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES.  65 

Tahi.k  :i4.— cotton  GOOD.'^,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES    ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued.    " 


MATERIAL  USED— continued. 

8TATES.                       Wa-iie  of  otluT  mills. 

Oil. 

Starch. 

Chemicals 

and 
dyestutls. 

Fuel. 

Rent  of 

power 

and  heat. 

Mill 
supplies. 

All  Other 
materials. 

Freight. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Gallons. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Cost. 

Cost. 

Cost. 

Cost. 

Cost. 

Cost. 

40,835,400 

$1,513,281 

2,752,271 

$494, 179 

53,656,304 

$1,223,102 

$5,671,768 

$6,039,485 

$382,676 

$7,664,490 

$4,614,468 

82,286,757 

34,679,845 

1,242,765 

1,607,707 

265.796 

30,898,520 

753,075 

3,854,915 

3,440,996 

127,163 

4,666,208 

3,033,275 

1,225,643 

3, 821,. 532 
434, 053 

190,753 
24,, 51 8 

135,781 
246,466 
7,660 
896,895 
2-22,756 
98,149 

274,243 

19,7,57 
34,799 

3, 026, 4-23 
4. 719.  .505 

52, 364 

144,940 

1,984 

40.5,  .536 

67,817 

70,434 

103,709 

136,645 
766,948 
5, 071 
2,3.57,105 
331,017 
259, 129 

840,459 

1-39,919 
410,996 
20,-2-26 
2, 132. 986 
519, 653 
217,-216 

635,370 

37,266 
15, 767 

403,017 
513,970 
32,761 
2, 527,  -224 
748, 5.58 
430,678 

744,087 

134,917 
352,931 
4,100 
1,875,707 
497,023 
468,597 

870,835 

202,337 

1.54.019 

I,l-2;j           119,644 
147,001  1  IS,  .584, 853 
46,191       2. 374.  .573 

17,079 

Massiiflnisetts 

22,392,884 
5, 963,  702 
2,067,674 

2,388,242 

6.S8,S60 

209, 853 

68,781 

115.332 

47,728 

997 

25,405 

130,235 

646,592 
28,782 

Conuocticut 

Middle  states                

16,925 
64,934 

2,073,522 
4,588,077 

178,634 
192,657 

New  York , 

124,628 
'  '2,'263,'6i4' 

7,140 

■""i68,'i92' 

119,486 
-2.5,283 
89,845 
2,124 
37,505 

831,317 

17,903 
7,9.>1 

21, -290 

335 

7,446 

165,581 

1,107,898 

1,396,068 

1,717,454 

35, 691 

330,966 

17,525,-2.58 

27,465 

26,821 

4-2,784 

1,163 

5,476 

353,6.58 

77,884 

295,015 

4.53,878 

6,000 

7,682 

963,757 

160, 1.55 
1-22,996 
278. 389 
18,876 
54,954 

1,879,055 

62,896 

180,678 
104, 175 
316,015 
13,433 
129,786 

2,1,59,706 

108,431 
366, 103 
348,718 

47,925 
53, 765 

Pennsylvania 

67,211 

72, 932 
1,385 

128 
123,098 

47,583 
676,880 

16,650 

Southern  states 

3,767,313 

155,184 

806,662 

16,4-22 

280,491 

-213,091 

189.036 

81,615 

6,150 

6,700 

8,617 

1-2,443 

10,752 

39,001 

3,012 

.56,949 

46,688 

34,117 

15,786 

1,302 

1,741 

1,392 

2,854 

1,710 

7,868 

374,272 

4,. 527, 391 

6,038,638 

3,413,851 

1,666.938 

-278, 5.50 

356,000 

263,787 

374,319 

-231,512 

644,449 

7,841 

91,263 

115,956 

65,  %0 

38,537 

7,  -275 

9,360 

6,769 

6,900 

3,777 

12,660 

74,066 

478,258 

.50,707 

225, 971 

21,032 

43,912 

180 

14, 693 

29,764 

15,174 

22,637 

31,909 

703,811 

555, -252 

269,  7-22 

141,947 

45,  709 

38, 866 

-20,637 

39,8-26 

31,776 

84,065 

2,800            -21.183 

52,353 
231,705 
195,602 

95,809 

71,857 
3,680 
•2,334 

14,179 
4,269 
4,792 

33,778 

417 

North  Carolina 

777, 101 

367,110 

48,641 

35,410 

21,420 

1,946 

14,623 

56,950 

48,936 

40 

602,014 
725, 964 
4-25,302 
19-2,418 
41,873 
2-2,643 
35,887 
59,658 
32,764 

•      104,489 

-275,  714 

201,091 

241,905 

67,643 

2,519,477 

94,251 

11,484 

12,584 

All  other  Southern  states » 

&4,984 

2,157 

760 
2,180 

5,224 
61,795 

395 

11,  .340 

2,692 

24,577 

307 
1,997 

4.54 
5,110 

1,420 

2.50,755 

67,000 

325,274 

38 
3,676 
1,818 
7,128 

3,316 
5,299 

1,695 
24,088 

7,504 
50,778 

1,100 

1,848 
38,776 

4,850 
12,173 

2,939 
13,816 

2,237 

5,726 

8,256 
5.5.609 

1,1-23 

All  other  Western  states  ^ . 

14,023 

1,080 

82,  709 

PRODCCTS. 

^ 

Total  value. 

Plain  cloths  for  printing  or  converting. 

Brown  or  bleached  sheetings 
and  shirtings. 

Twills  and  sa 

Not  finer  than 

No.  28  warp. 

Finer  than  No.  28  warp. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

United  StHtes 

$332,806,156 

1,056,278,952 

$35,616,575 

625,334,875 

$22,164,365 

1,212,403,048 

$55,513,032 

235,860,518 

i 

14, 301, 302 

188,653,165 

847,946,980 

27,958,118 

383,196,030 

17,367,642 

481,298,187 

26,203,827 

198,815,724 

12, 324, 450 

14.631,086 
22,998,249 
999,886 
110,478.327 
24.056,175 
1.5,489,442 

45,705,085 

3,967,731 

79,130,448 

21,585,818. 

687,235,050 

53,893,978 

2,133,955 

83,338,422 

199, 847 

35. 0,5-2. 077 

1,659,366 
212,820 

94,416,781 
64,953,520 

4,825,924 
3,076,366 

26,188,579 
23,9-26,221 

1,626,978 

New  Hampshire 

2,868  638           4  161.3.53 

1,381,439 

698,  733 

22,164,741 

1,9.51,636 

Jliissaohusetts 

240,170,139 
4.5.  378.  .596 

9,774,579 
2,403,175 
3,307,702 

111,840 

176,-283,9-24 

128, -276, 782 

17,367,180 

32, 973, 722 

9,-2.55,612 

7,160,966 

884,  %0 

2, -252, 934 

86,668,240 
43,308,277 
19,724,407 

21,494,667 

8,859,0-28 
2,604,6-20 

74,  5-23          .58.  4'>fi.  865 

952,385 

Middle  states 

2,988,123 

2,530,986 

1,244,485 

New  Yorl; 

9,917,986 

6,540,289 

23,421,470 

372,089 

5,423,251 

94,914,794 

79,523,329 
2,497,136 

2,800,881 
1-27,854 

599,781 
297,235 

28,793 
14,450 

24,6997So 

1,600,821  !         8.  .582. 190 

468,930 

4,540,034 

280.411 

Pennsylvania 

6,102,057 

572,461 

8, 345, 486 

493, 261 

1,317,957 

59,388 

1,633,970 

68,597 

Maryland 

3,272.425 
644,577,686 

179, 659 
26, 043, 690 

26,857 
15,550,227 

1,880 

Southern  states 

111,052,162 

4,->90,%9 

139,201,156 

4,676,724 

732,367 

2,655,002 

28.372,798 

29,723,919 

]8,4.i7,M5 

S,  l.i3. 136 

1 , 472, 835 

1,199,990 

1,663.712 

1,994,935 

1,220,822 

3,533,112 

1,368,539 

28,674.2.57 

77,848,108 

1,831,596 

1,329,662 

62,-270 
1  075  6-24 

18,206,0.54 
88  0S5  411 

710, 591 

3,471,3-29 

11,, 5.53, 073 

5,1-27,409 

2,841,008 

363,  764 

173, 457 

534,237 

501,576 

767,246 

2,012,581 

North  Carolina           

■>.>  .^70  687 

.S67  944 

114,166 

11,379,712 

420,000 

1,397,609 

5.789 

South  Carolina 

3.034,475         97, 343,  .5-26 
59  5-27  '         i  -VU  999 

3,171,198 
1»1,710 
283,617 
199,-255 

283.10.5,383 
131,739.917 
72,432,173 
3,797,382 
3,  854.  i;09 
14  f^y  303 

485.484 

58,800 

59,073 

9,130,864 
5,774,080 

85,805 

Tennessee 

11. 012.. 570 
17.684,884 

.53  .5.53  4.53 

2,238,740 

126,489 

All  otherSouthernstates* 

13,941,388 

379,365 

406, 703 

!8, 159 

Ohio 

231.045 

1,335,007 

310,061 

1  650  999 

700,000 
8,7-27,333 

21,000 
196, 365 

. 

•28, 076, 438 

7,060,614 

dK.  416.  .501 

968,388 
-286,676 
757, 617 

Wisconsin 

All  other  Western  states^ 

i  .514  n.5.5 

162  000 

40^  7oa 

18. 1.59 

Uncludes  establishments  distributed  as  follows; 
Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


Southern  stales— Arkansas,  '1:  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.     Western  states— California,  1;  Colorado.  1; 


MON- 


-TEXT- 


66  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES    ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued. 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

Fancy  woven  fabrics. 

Gingl 

ams. 

Duck. 

Dril 

Sail. 

Other. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

United  States 

237,841,603 

$21,066,310 

278,392,708 

816,179,200 

11,760,151 

$2,216,371 

117, 483, 925 

$12,046,637 

237,206,549 

$11,862,794 

188,079,288 

15,536,137 

111,611,819 

8,007,003 

516,874 

130,693 

31,039,438 

3,398,436 

48,241,163 

3, 002, 136 

6, 922, 390 
2,019,785 

784,204 
263,296 

9,  835, 356 
44,760,333 

800,819 
3,092,400 

21,413,342 
6,330,915 

1,326,566 

8,162,191 

991,123 

356,244 

Mas>jifhns('tts 

137,064,111 
21,554,243 
20, 518, 759 

38,278,513 

10,995,987 
1,997,352 
1,495,298 

4,708,095 

53,932,358 

3,949,351 

153,328 

38,910 

17,750,629 

1,638,320 

20,47.5,203 

1,316,071 

2,983,772 
14,975,361 

164,433 
948,769 

363,646 
8,510,148 

91,783 
1,693,334 

5,126,618 
19,189,921 

768,993 
2,986,002 

21,703 
186,932 

3,255 

10,281 

1,191,300 
1,369,127 

365,  485 
277,248 

4,456,994 
30,981,363 

680, 577 
3,906,347 

2,972,723 

11,792,638 

210,000 

156,909 
623,860 
168,000 

2,841,166 
11,483,802 

221,171 
822,078 

8,610,148 
2, 723, 129 

1,693,334 
392,344 

16,629,494 
66,813,750 

2,343,269 
5,632,615 

186,932 
'188,762,583 

10,281 
8, 849, 672 

Southern  states. 

151,905,628 

7,223,428 

1,419,693 

7,770,704 

213,068 

965, 038 

99,629 
502, 123 

14,000 
142, 887 

27,600,235 
79,531,131 
16,752,808 
25,302,954 

1,3.58,195 

3,799,187 

806,551 

1,117,529 

2,608,716 
226, 951 

6,898,210 
31,673,022 
13,  .529, 893 

1,567,596 

7,655,784 

140,834 
21,106 

931,297 
2,143,646 
1,390,108 

111,858 

722,750 

4,790,967 
2,821,238 
116,467,224 
36,378,866 
14,867,094 
4,436,078 
3,273,339 

242, 271 

133,110 

337,944 

50,692 

5,375,017 

1,801>5.S6 

2,084,385 

319,092 

607.927 

281,240 

Texas 

261,468 

7,842 

130  933 



1,116,399 

63,439 

2,456,932 

134,124 

1,934,666 
818,912 

440, 816 

106,503 
64, 613 

29,584 

2,975,075 
2,752,702 

15,871 

163  016 

300,800 

22,560 

114, 572 

705 

Inditiiia 

All  other  Western  states^ 

440,816 

29,584 

15,871 

705 

PRODUCTS— continued. 

STATES. 

Ticks,  denims,  and 
stripes. 

Cottonades. 

Napped  fabrics. 

Corduroy,  cotton  velvet, 
and  plush. 

Mosquito  and  other 
netting. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

United  States      

171,800,853 

$16,446,633 

26,323,947 

$2,791,431 

268,852,716 

$18,231,044 

7,961,523 

$2,682,017 

41,885,023 

$875,868 

New  England  states 

108,420,059 

10,724,795 

5,645,907 

570,431 

218,637,011 

15,005,477 

3, 653, 019 

1    lOQ  -MS 

22,158,370 

455, 119 

5, 243, 675 
32,201,176 

588,764 
3, 226, 598 

3,901,386 

377, 849 

14,190,748 
62,253,909 

995,867 
■     4,394,860 



Vermont 

Massiichusetts 

Rhode  Island . 

63,794,395 

5,380,689 

1,190,555 

145, 606 

137, 199, 384 

9,328,653 

1,687,597 
1,965,422 

349,343 
779,900 

1,958,116 
6,379,307 
13,820,947 

19,726,653 

137, 175 
80,235 

7,  ISO, 813 
12,947,985 

1,528,744 
1,165,017 

553, 966 
8,288,467 

46,976 
1,238,303 

4,992,973 
,5,814,757 

286,097 
882,836 

237, 711 

4,308,604 

1,652,774 

420,749 

772, 440 

52,888 

1,069,384 

303,905 

36,000 

327,000 

3,945,504 

i4,400 

118,800 

1,419,  .574 

8,038,518 
11,688,135 

186,986 

233, 763 

12, 262, 848 

1,110,206 

7,004,769 

1,134,039 

3,718,782 

523,772 

685, 137 
50,432,809 

64,811 
4,666,821 

5ii,268 
12,389,573 

51,376 
982,697 

■       1,026,591 
40,633,116 

65,159 
2,109,572 

Virginia 

23,228,007 

1,802,138 

16,9n,764 

2,521,849 
139, 131 

1,048,395 
250,000 

6, 289, 031 

409,634 

30,175,177 

840, 372 

6,044,140 

1,555.920 

85,000 
265,960 

Georgia 

4, 173, 815 

1,040,307 

886,420 

399,553 
74,990 
98,520 

3,573,427 

252,692 

Kentucky 

6,701,703 
1,729,197 

421,372 
176,074 

. 

3,767,832 

233,159 

Indiana        

3,767,832 

233, 159 

includes  establishments  distributed  aa  follows:  Southern  states— Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states — California,  1;  Colorado,!; 

Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES.  67 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATKS   ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued. 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

Upholstery  goods. 

STATES. 

Tapestries  (piece  goods 
and  curtains). 

Chenille  curtains. 

Lace  and  lace  curtains. 

Other,  including  covers. 

Bags  and  bagging. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

United  States 

10,131,538 

84,123,600 

805,414 

S257,S40 

36,880,198 

83,585,138 

2,517.459 

8703,806 

30,039,616 

82,554,192 

447,267 

60,494 

105,000 

70,000 

862,448 

121,344 

19,974,844 

1,485,254 

Maine 

862, 448 

121,344 

6,142,221 

8,  .591, 681 

477, 610 

695, 612 

447,267 

60,494 

8,240,942 

312,132 

105,000 
36, 775, 198 

70,000 
3,515,138 

Middle  states 

9,684,271 

4,073,106 

806, 414 

257,840 

1,655,011 

582.462 

797,605 

124, 439 

6,860,000 

486,523 

614,696 

100,913 

60,000 
9, 586, 600 

15,000 
4,048,784 

60,000 
745,414 

is,  666 

244,840 

30,92.5,198 

3,028,615 

1,655,011 

582,462 

37,665 

9,322 

182,909 
8,767,167 

23,626 
907,099 

1,285,365 

229,109 

4,030,293 

10,600 

301,682 

20, 984 

252,808 

600 

South  Carolina 

Texas        

1,234.901 

7.50, 000 

1, 220, 899 

125  320 

96  .500 

Tennessee 

109, 305 

600,000 

37,400 

Ohio                    

Wisconsin 

600,000 

37  400 

PRODUCTS— continued. 

BTATES. 

Tape  and  webbing. 

Yarns  for  sale. 

Sewing  cotton. 

Twine. 

Batting  and  wadding. 

Pieces. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

United  States 

1, 160, 873 

8328,801 

332,186,012 

855,188,663 

15,741,062 

811,825,218 

11,132,250 

81,475,146 

10,567,700 

$864,016 

374,607 

19,015 

118,351,581 

24,091,176 

10,674,886 

8, 349, 456 

1,902,761 

262,951 

7,537,820 

645,635 

1,753 

263 

2,768,234 
6, 018, 260 
1,532,247 
87,666,177 
14,366,101 
6,010,662 

41,710,540 

406,426 

847,278 

277, 542 

18, 205, 806 

2, 817, 858 

1536.266 

6, 656, 129 

199,040 

11,600 

New  Hampshire 

10,000 

1,200 

1 

74,860 

380,  ,500 

6,009.080 

874,340 

25, 625 

3,360 
IS  5'M 

M  assachusetts 

2,166 

360.000 

10,688 

476,014 

363 
15,000 
3,389 

190,786 

3,390,883 
3,851,844 
3,432,169 

4,208,522 

2,800,496 
2,687,827 
2,861,134 

3,349,997 

1,245,840 
347.605 
299,616 

1,890,992 

135, 639 
79,563 
36,549 

277,112 

Connecticut 

60  13'* 

Middle  states .-, . . . 

2;804 

New  York 

2,500 

12,500 

17,922,997 
3,727,865 

18,718,490 
433,632 
907,556 

170,674,870 

2, 782, 168 
870,824 

2,811.123 

72,054 

119,963 

24,184,366 

330,000 

3,560,795 

268,719 

150,000 

3, 130, 267 

60,880 

25,625 

2,804 

164,000 

77,000 

53,000 

6,750 

Maryland 

319,614 
310,000 

101,286 
68,000 

69,008 
557,654 

8,850 
74,765 

1, 837, 992 
6,111.115 

270, 362 
775,160 

1,457,545 

82,243 

Virginia  

51,927 

86, 970,  ,599 

24,859,616 

35, 748, 694 

14,432,028 

1,089,493 

288, 400 

8,020,741 

2,000,083 

213,289 

.  1,449,021 

8.190 

12,708,636 

3,461,090 

4,882,437 

1,965,139 

126,766 

34,608 

701,8.54 

263.662 

31,994 

256, 992 

2,691 
187,800 

416 
26, 292 

6.5,466 

2. 800,  .530 

648, 190 

636. 769 

1,320,624 

6,977 

412, 127 

69, 186 

74,394 

145,269 

7,134 

29,931 

2, 400 

122, 437 

11,393 

69,840 

46, 200 

■2>>,999 

323, 925 

125,286 

1,546,710 

449 

310,000 

56,000 

338, 310 

42,863 

Alabama 

1  823 

Mississippi 

4,000 
162 

Texas         

46i,'938' 

177, 598 

47,719 

19,488 

Tennessee 

17  406 

28,853 
300,000 

5,194 
51,000 

252 

64,000 

1,227,382 

169,923 

133,434 

Ohio 

252 

64,000 

440,000 
791,521 

96,000 
136,367 

40,000 
39,382 

10,000 
4,923 

Indiana 

219,888 

15,096 

217,500 

24,625 

300,000 

51,000 

1,148,000 

1.56,000 

1,326,822 

118,338 

•  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Southern  states— Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  2;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states— California,  1;  Colorado,  1; 
Illinois,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Nebraska,  1. 


68  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  24.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES   AKRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continue.i. 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

GOODS  EXPORTED. 

'  STATES. 

Waste  fit 

r  sale. 

)thcr  prod- 
ucts. 

E.\porti.'d  during 

the  year  end- 
ing June  30,1900. 

Weight  of  products. 

Other  prorUK't.s 
of  cottun. 

AUc 

Piece  goods. 

Yarns  spun  and 

not  woven  in 

the  mill. 

Other  products. 

United  States 

Pounds. 
270,100,756 

Value. 
?5, 552, 234 

V(Uue. 
85,154,170 

Value. 
89,199,753 

Value. 
815,357,602 

Poundg. 
1,124,224,687 

Pounds. 
343,291,338 

Pounds. 
71,783,649 

New  England  states 

173,315,267 

3,871,402 

1,838,378 

7,056,3*1 

5,666,595 

576,231,680 

125,26S.394 

37,107,387 

10,532,399 
18.748,350 
SCO, 135 
114,2.M.895 
18,763,717 
10,1.53,771 

18,492,250 

210,176 
395.035 
16.752 
2,609.039 
386,2.50 
2.54. 150 

388. 496 

177,720 
101,662 

39,763 

1,093,778 

3.499 

4,829,304 

621,230 

667,079 

1,736,524 

1,430,000  1             64.589.813 

2,769,987 
6,018,260 
1,532,247 
88,970,8'25 
17,636,684 
8,310,391 

42,275,212 

5,021,810 

New  Hampshire 

739,  7.57 

103,725,761 
3.900,736 

5,001,126 
1,164 

Massacliusett-s 

Rhode  Island 

Connecticut 

Middle  <!tates                    

i,i82,466 
118,647 
257,883 

2,345,009 

3,489,240 
3,761 
3,837 

554,225 

361,768,746 
3,060.689 
39,185,935 

105,901,658 

14,557,121 
9, 187. 122 
3,339,044 

16,960,035 

6,554,045 
2,542,061 
5,664,228 
209,428 
3,522,488 

76,290,107 

126.419 
78. 133 

115.142 

4.050 

64.752 

1,261,701 

350,264 

213,309 

449,  774 

1,051,284 

11,676 

25,910.718 

6.197,567 

42,841,943 

809.931 

30,111,499 

42.5.535.425 

17,870,669 
3,727,865 

19,335,490 
433,632 
907,556 

174,298,711 

3.934,770 

New  Jersey. 

193,279  , 
1,611,074  1 

3, 7.53, 052 

29,535 

5.589.992 

190,392  1 

23,858 
339,170 

513,114 
9,088.240 

3,682,221 

922,313 

14.  (Ml, 180 

1,948.592 

22,039,030 

25,  .582. 434 

1.5,310,595 

0,764,490 

1,181,753 

441,439 

1,224.276 

1,1.50.099 

647. 459 

2.103.072 

25, 180 

33.5.  .571 

433. 986 

280.614 

101.696 

14.366 

4.618 

24,000 

22. 769 

12,901 

30,635 

10,812                 15.438.367 

51,927 

88,509,326 

25,359,616 

35,749,078 

1.5,993,105 

1, 083, 993 

288,400 

5, 020, 741 

2,000.383 

242,142 

1,449,021 

■     68, 151 

118,341 
74.309 

3S8.238 
46,355 
20,384 

49,902 

68,374 

205, 167 

10,734 

145, 573 
6,994,651 
1,230,856 
641,045 
36,000 
29,303 

77,127,435 

173,451,400 

81,291,311 

42,523,657 

6,827,632 

7,922,226 

4,062,530 

9.180,854 

7, 706, 953 

16,555,924 

3.326,766 

1,902,797 

3, 793, 686 

847,979 

292, 797 

46,200 

212.100 
45,586 
17,000 

48, 470 

3,563 

200 

1,230 

67,705 

1, 034, 107 

2,271  359 

457,338 

Western  states 

48,442 

3, 645, 047 

Ohio 

3,000 
773,306 
250,098 
976,668 

45 
11, 163 
5,685 
13,742 

40,000 
2,705 

392, 000 
7, 874, 551 

440,000 
791,521 

255, 000 

109, 270 

23,800 
24,670 

1,765.128 
6,524,245 

26,000 
3,244,777 

All  other  Western  states' 

25,000 

48,442 

217,600 

rRINTING 

DYEI.VG.   BI.E.\CHINI";.   .\XD   MERCERIZING   CLOTH   AND  YARN   IN  COTTON  MILLS. 

P 

inting. 

Dyeing. 

Bleaching. 

Mercerizing. 

STATES. 

Printing 

ma- 
chines. 

Cloth 
printed. 

Addit 
value 
b.v  pri 

onal 
given 
nting. 

Cloth  dyed. 

Yarn  dyed. 

Additional 
value  given 
by  dyeing. 

Cloth 
bleached. 

Additional 
value  given 
by  bleaching. 

Yarn  mer- 
cerized. 

Additional 

value 

given  by 

Number. 

Squar 

e  yards. 

Square  yards. 

Pounds. 

Square  yards. 

Pounds. 

ing. 

United  States 

104 

292 

741,100 

85,2 

12,695 

125,894,620 

=151,610,157 

86,803,077 

3197,691,533 

8932,452 

2,149,722 

$328,330 

97 

291 

693,800 

5,191,214 

62,686,716 

63, 4%,  281 

2,490,457 

125. 235, 506 

590,649 

1,647,470 

245,017 

Maine      .... 

3,340,491 
3,276,720 
307,252 
2  41,  .590, 782 
4,525,039 
10,4.55,997 

18,166,563 

83.299 

179, 871 

9,218 

1,551,298 

403.777 

262, 994 

1,070,248 

6,778,075 
13,842,238 

22,831 
101,551 

New  Hampshire 

Vermont 

14 

47 

231,375 

933.716 

4,948,962 

Massachusetts 

75 
1 
6 

242 

1 

057, 565 

4,1 

75. 287 

SI.  7.50 

461 

51, 166 

41.040,589 
■s,  .818, 198 
7,S78,967 

65,965,346 

»78,693.381 
25,921,612 

286,788 
147, 936 
31,543 

194,121 

1,340,254 

208,574 

34,860  ! 
115,808 

307,216 
502,252 

36,443 

Middle  states 

46,677,444 

83,313 

New  York 

1 

6,513,038 

44,237,979 

5,832,509 

381,820 

106, 450 
2, 002, 531 
15,476,499 

44,888 

501,013 

509,089 

7,636 

7,622 

3,211,107 

13,456,476 
26, 426. 156 
6,794.812 

40,604 
63, 410 
90.107 

26.328 
83,309 
392.615 

3,242 

New  Jersey  .. 

1 

1,548 

Pennsylvania 

6 

1 

115,808 

51,166 

78.523 

Maryland 

- 



581,083 
08,361,413 

1 

31,492 

315 

5,741,892 

25,278,583 

142,682 

Virginia  ..  . . 

5,727,300 
34.850,776 

2,250,514 
14,747,021 

2,123,809 

2,394,628 

85,909 
2,442,144 
43,647 
432, 054 
33,095 
58,329 

1 

31,492 

316 

3116.  490 



300.000 
24,265,583 

1,600 
124,893 

5.435,402 

713,000 

16,289 

Keiituckv      .               ... 

1,556,969 
2,710,3% 
2,000,000 

1,585,900 

.43,139 

•    52,190 

20,000 

31,265 



1,500.672 

600,000 

5,000 

320,000 
575, 900 

4,300 
6,759 

1,500  fiw 

20,206. 

.>wi  nnn 

5,000 

f. 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Southern  slates— Arkansas,  2;   Louisiana,  "J;  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states — California.  1;   Colorado,  1; 
Illinois,  1;  Missouri.  '2.  Nebraska,  1. 

-  Does  not  include  4.'».^:.V2  dozen  underwear. 

3  Does  not  include  yT.'>.WH)  yards  cotton,  11,989  dozen  underwear,  and  0-lti,0:ll  rpiiUs. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES.  69 

Table  li-4.— COTTON  GOODS,  DETAILED  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES   ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY:  1900— Continued. 


COMPABISON  OF   PRODUCTS. 

POWER. 

Number 
of  estab- 
lishments 
reporting 
for  both 
years. 

Value  for 
census  year. 

Value  for 

preceding 

business 

year. 

Number 
of  estab- 
lishments 
report- 
ing. 

Total  horse- 
power. 

Owned, 

STATES. 

Engines. 

Water  wheels. 

Electric  motors. 

Steam. 

Gas  or 

gasoline. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

United  States 

602 

$241,797,279 

8201,875,820 

958 

805, 126 

1,765 

527,186 

10 

275 

1,316 

250,790 

275 

15,268 

229 

143,763,288 

118,174,006 

331 

498,868 

960 

324, 062 

4 

221 

839 

162,618 

86 

7,126 

12 
17 
4 
111 
49 
36 

149 

12,718,118 
19, 388, 543 
963, 294 
81,892,089 
17, 040, 685 
11,760,559 

37,290,359 

11,072,519 
15,607,259 
787, 206 
66, 615, 282 
14,173,689 
9, 918, 051 

33,110,371 

15 
23 
5 
162 
71 
56 

>         221 

39,963 
68,788 
3,170 
281,032 
63,996 
41,919 

72,861 

25 

69 

4 

667 

122 
83 

275 

12,360 
35,822 
1,400 
210,880 
44, 105 
19.505 

56,580 

98 
98 
8 
333 
162 
150 

88 

23,233 
32,231 
1,770 
64,158 
19, 872 
21,354 

13,564 

4 
6 

Vermont 



Massilciulsetts 

3 

206 

63 

5  671 

Rhode  Island 

Connecticut 

1 
3 

15 
44 

13 
29 

785 

Middle  states 

296 

19 

12 

109 

1 
8 

211 

8,48.5,844 
6,101,315 
17,625,292 
130, 445 
4,947,463 

57,867,329 

7,548,310 
5, 402, 096 
15,321,204 
U0,082 
4,728,679 

48,064,875 

34 

19 

151 

3 

14 

390 

23,859 
14,216 
22,463 
1,460 
10,864 

2-22,811 

47 
63 
138 
3 
24 

498 

14,801 
13,044 
19, 615 
1,250 
7,870 

138,069 

.  2 

1 

40 
4 

45 
11 
11 

1 
20 

371 

8,524 

1,006 

831 

210 

2,994 

72,568 

1? 

New  Jersey 

162 

Pennsylvania 

29 

Delaware 

2 

5 

157 

7,835 

Virginia 

3 
85 
42 
38 
17 
3 
2 
6 
11 
4 

13 

2,074,780 
14,197,270 
17,916.449 
1I,9U'2,167 
5,137,318 
95.6,204 
1,038,699 
1,663,712 
1,869,268 
1,112,462 

2,876,303 

2,003,160 

11,846,103 

14,1.59,857 

9,886,277 

4,526,506 

784,062 

909,734 

1,333,096 

1,659,601 

9^6,479 

2,526,668 

7 

177 

80 

67 

21 

6 

4 

6 

17 

5 

16 

5,048 

58, 442 

78,801 

39,864 

23,032 

3,365 

2,9.50 

3,605 

5,525 

2,179 

10,586 

6 

207 

117 

70 

36 

12 

8 
12 
23 

7 

22 

1,690 

37,258 

43,386 

22,946 

16, 485 

3,330 

2, 950 

3,455 

4,590 

1,979 

8,475 

30 

141 
90 

70 
25 

1 

3,070 
19,225 
26, 434 
16,011 

6,508 

1 

28 

114 

11 

3 

28 

North  Carolina 

1 
1 

3 
2 

1  456 

South  Carolina  . 

5]  759 

Alabama 

35 

M  ississippi 

Te.\as 

Kentucky 

1 
U 
2 

18 

150 
935 
200 

2,040 

All  other  Southern  states^ 

Western  states         ... 

1 

5 

3 

11 

Ohio 

3 

4 

1 

5 

231,045 
1,33.5,007 

129,419 
1,180,832 

197,672 

1,243,615 

130,000 

955,281 

3 

4 
3 
6 

360 
4,006 
1,575 
4,655 

2 

11 
3 
6 

300 
4,000 

575 
3,600 

1 

5 

2 

40 

1 
2 

5 

Indiana 

6 

14 
2 

1,000 
■  1,000 

All  other  Western  states^ 

POWER— continued. 

ESTABLISHME> 

JTS  CLASSIFfED  BY  N 

UMBER  OF 

Fin 

PERSONS 
M   .ME.MB 

EMPLOYED,  NOT  I.NCLl'DING   PROPRIETORS  AND 

ERS. 

Rented. 

Furnished 
to  other 
establish- 
ments. 

em- 
yees. 

Under  5. 

• 

5  to  20. 

21 1< 

)50. 

51  to  100. 

101  to 
250. 

251  to 
500. 

501  to 
1,000. 

STATES. 

Electric. 

Other 
kind. 

Total 
number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

No 
plo 

Over 

1,000. 

Horse- 
power. 

Horse- 
power. 

United  States 

1,922 

9,685 

4,848 

973 

1 

10 

63 

95 

144 

289 

190 

113 

68 

718 

■     4,123 

3,375 

332 

2 

14 

28 

33 

80 

61 

62 

4,025 

1,000 

15 
23 
5 
163 
71 
55 

225 

1 

4 

3 
3 

1 
32 
21 
20 

61 

2 
5 
3 

25 

18 

8 

■23 

3 
5 

6 

New  Hainpshire 

420 

5 

1 
10 

7 
10 

41 

43 

5 

250 

350 

74 
14 
10 

2,027 

2.260 

2 

7 
3 
4 

43 

13 
10 
5 

35 

42 
7 
5 

9 

Rhode  Island 

5 

115 
995 

Middle  states 

1 

8 

New  York 

350 

39 

34 

20 

154 

3 

14 

400. 

1 

4 
5 
32 

7 
3 

31 

6 

8 
6, 
42 
2 
4 

144 

3 
3 
13 
1 
3 

99 

2 

i 

3 

1 

1,988 

995 

7 

24 

Delaware 

2 
5 

5 

74 

864 

3,480 

198 



25 

41 

260 

7 

177 

80 

67 

31 

6 

4 

6 

17 

5 

16 

4 

72 

28 

21 

9 

1 

1 

3 

4 

1 

4 

2 
40 
24 
14 
9 
3 
3 
1 
2 
1 

7 

1 

600 

1 

is 

5 

44 

6 
12 
5 

6 
13 
12 

6 

1 

South  Carolina 

3,220 

3 

160 

10 

7 

350 
4 

1 
1 

2 

1 

• 

1 

Tcxa.s 

Kentucky 

1 
5 

1 

2 

1 
1 
1 

1 

25 

1 

1 

1 

4 

All  other  Sou  them  states* 

55 

280 

1 

Ohio 

3 
4 
3 

A 

1 

2 

* 

Indiana 

280 

3 

I 

1 

2 
2 

All  other  Western  states ' 

55 

4 

1 

ilucludes  establishments  distributed  as  follows 
Uliiiuiii,  1;  .Mis,soun,  '2:  Nebraska,  1. 


Southern  states— Arkansas,  2;  Louisiana,  "2:  West  Virginia,  1.    Western  states — California,  1:  Colorado,  1; 


70 


iMANUFACTUUES. 


COTTON    SMALI-    WARES. 

At  the  census  of  l!H)t)  for  the  first  time  a  separate 
classification  was  made  of  tlic  establishmeuts  producing 
cotton  small  wares,  includinj;'  cotton  lace,  edjjings,  boot 
and  shoe  lacinos.  corset  lacin<;s.  lami)  and  stove  wicks, 
tapes,  webbings,  and  trimmings. 

A  S7iiall  number  of  these  establishments  may  have 
been  reported  at  the  Eleventh  Census  under  the  head 
of  ''millinery  and  lace  goods,"  and  some  others  may 
have  been  included  in  the  class  of  "boot  and  shoe  find- 
ings." Most  of  them,  however,  were  included  with  cotton 
goods.  Inasmuch  as  a  few  only  of  these  establishments 
make  use  of  raw  cotton,  or  operate  spindles,  and  since 
their  products  are  quite  distinct  in  character  from  those 
of  ordinary  cotton  mills,  it  seems  desirable  to  group 
them  by  themselves,  in  order  to  avoid  misleading  deduc 
tions  from  the  statistics  of  the  cotton  manufacture 
proper,  to  recognize  the  importance  of  a  rapidly  ex- 
panding industry,  and  to  lay  a  basis  for  future  com- 
parisons. 

Nevertheless,  the  following  tables  do  not  give  an  ex- 
act view  of  the  magnitude  of  the  industries  included 
in  this  group.  The  rule  necessarily  followed  in  classi- 
fying establishments  is  to  combine  those  whose  chief 
product,  measured  by  value,  is  similar.  Evidently^  no 
rule  of  classification  gives  an  entirely  satisfactory  result. 
In  the  present  instance  there  are  cotton  mills  that  make 
nothing  but  sewing  cotton,  and  establishments  which 
must  be  classed  as  producing  cotton  small  wares  that 
make  a  certain  quantity  of  sewing  cotton.  Although 
tape  and  webbings  are  frequently  a  minor  and  inci- 
dental product  of  cotton  mills,  a  small  establishment 
which  buys  its  yarn  and  makes  tape  and  webbings 
exclusively  may  not  properly  be  classed  as  such  a  mill. 

These  considerations  will  explain  why  the  use  of  a 
considerable  amount  of  raw  cotton  and  the  operation  of 
a  certain  number  of  cotton  spindles  are  reported  in  a 
class  of  mills  which,  as  a  rule,  do  not  .si)in  their  own 
yarn.  The\'  will  also  indicate  that  neither  do  the  fol- 
lowing tables  disclose  the  entire  product  of  the  articles 
included  under  the  designation  of  cotton  small  wares, 
nor  do  all  the  products  of  the  mills  here  reported  fall 
properly  under  that  designation.  But  a  fairly  accurate 
statement  can  be  deduced  from  a  comparison  with  the 
reports  of  other  textile  industries. 

Table  25  presents  the  leading  statistics  of  cotton 
small  wares  for  1900. 

Table  25.— COTTON  SMALL  WARES:  SUMMARY,  1900. 

Number  of  establishments 82 

Capital 86,397,385 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 189 

Salaries K26, 625 

Wage-earners,  average  number 4, 932 

Total  wages $1.563, 4-12 

Men,  16  years  and  over 1, 367 

Wages $671,516 

Women,  16  years  and  over T 3, 173 

Wages $828,  732 

Children ,  under  16  years 392 

Wages $63, 194 

Miscellaneous  expenses - $462, 534 

Cost  of  materials  used $3, 110, 137 

Value  of  products $6,394,164 

Active  spindles,  number 42,600 

Looms,  number 5, 070 

Cotton  consumed ,  bales 7, 213 

Cotton  consumed,  pounds 3, 640, 878 


The  geographical  distribution  of  the  establishments 
reporting  is  as  follows:  New  England  states,  ?>2\  Mid- 
dle states,  47;  Georgia.  1:  Ohio,  1;  Indiana,  1.  The 
several  industries  are  of  a  class  which  tends  to  spi'ing 
up  within  cities  or  in  their  suburbs,  and  a  large  propor- 
tion of  those  here  I'eported  are  in,  or  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of.  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Boston,  and 
Providence.  The}*  are  for  the  most  part  small  estaV)- 
lishments.  The  average  capital  indicated  is  .something 
less  than  §80,000.  There  are,  however,  some  large 
establishments  in  Rhode  Island.  The  combined  capital 
of  three  of  them  is  nearly  $2,000,000,  which  is  almo.st 
one-third  of  the  amount  reported  for  the  whole  coun- 
try. The  elimination  of  the  returns  of  these  three 
mills  would  bring  the  average  capital  down  to  about 
$56,000.  The  average  number  of  hands  employed  in  each 
establishhient  was  60;  outside  of  Rhode  Island,  it  was 
but  41.  An  inspection  of  the  average  number  employed 
during  each  month  indicates  great  steadiness  of  em- 
ployment, the  slight  falling  ofl'  during  the  summer 
months  being  no  greater  than  is  easily  explained  by  the 
practice  of  allowing  emploj-ees  to  take  a  vacation. 

The  chief  materials  used  are  shown  by  the  following 
statement: 


MATERIALS. 


Raw  cotton 

Cotton  yarn 

Woolen  yarn... 
Worsted  yarn... 

silk  yarn 

Spun-silk  yarn, 
other  yiirn 


Raw  cotton  and  yarns,  total. 
All  other  materials 


Total  cost. 


Pounds. 


3,640,878 

10,860,648 

274,  &M 

47,308 

43,709 

9,852 

718,444 


15, 595, 190 


$264, 5il 

1,873,032 

91,251 

33,414 

134,296 

25, 394 

139,666 


2,561,594 
548,543 


Ninety-three  per  cent  in  weight  and  S3  per  cent  in 
value  of  the  raw  or  spun  liber  used  was  cotton,  but  in 
the  aggregate  not  a  little  of  the  product  was  mixed  as 
to  material. 

A  classification  of  products  can  not  be  made.  Manu- 
facturers were  not  asked  to  report  with  exactness  the 
specific  character  of  their  goods,  and  indeed,  the  variety 
and  the  absence  of  standard  units  of  quantity  would  have 
rendered  such  specification  valueless.  Nevertheless, 
from  the  total  value  of  products  reported,  $6,394,164, 
the  following  items  should  be  subtracted  as  not  coming 
properly  under  the  classification  of  cotton  small  wares: 
Upholstery  goods,  $35,000;  yarns  for  sale,  $27,403; 
sewing  cotton,  $83,453;  and  twine,  $71,465 — a  total  of 
$217,321.  On  the  other  hand,  in  order  to  obtain  the 
actual  total  of  cotton  small  wares  produced  in  all  the 
mills  of  the  country,  and  not  merely  of  these  here  re- 
ported, it  is  necessary  to  add  to  the  remainder  the  sum 
of  $328,801.  value  of  tape  and  webbings  made  in  cotton 
mills,  and  a  large  but  unknown  sum  out  of  the  item  of 
more  than  $5,000,000  reported  in  the  returns  of  cotton 
manufacturing  proper,  under  the  head  of  ■"All  other 
products  of  cotton." 

Table  26  pi-esents  the  detailed  statistics  for  the  indus- 
trv  for  1900. 


COTTON  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  26.— COTTON  SMALL  WARES,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


71 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  nrgHiiization: 

liulividiml 

Firm  mid  limited  pHrliiership 

Iiicorpomted  company 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings '. 

Maehinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Pruprktnrs  und  lirm  members 

bahirird  ■.IVirmls,  elerk.s,  etc.: 

'I'otal  niinilier 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Nnmber 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men— 

N  umber 

Salaries .'. 

Women- 
Number 

Salaries 

.  Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  duruig  the 

year 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year. 

Average  number 

Wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

A  verage  n  umber 

Wages 

Women,  Iti  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  Iti  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers, 
employed  during  each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

January 

February  

March 

April 

M  ay 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over— 

Janiuiry 

February  

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years- 
January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives  by  classes,  average  numlier: 
Spinners,  mule — 

Men,  16  years  and  over , 

Women,'l6  years  and  over , 

Children,  under  16  years 

Spinners,  frame- 
Men.  16  years  and  over 

Women,*16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Weavers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Mat^Wnery: 

i  rodneing  spindles,  not  including  twisting  and  doubling 
spindles,  number — 

Mule 

Frame 

Looms,  number — 
On  plain  cloths — 

Less  than  28  inches  wide 

From  28  to  32  inches  wide 

36  inches  wide  and  over 

On  fancy  weaves 


United  States. 

Massachu- 
setts. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Rhode 
Island. 

■  All  other 
states.! 

82 

14 

5 

18 

24 

16 

6 

30 

5 

2 

10 

6 

5 

2 

'24 

3 

6 

11 

3 

1 

28 

6 

.  3 

2 

7 

8 

2 

86,397,385 

$528,2.58 

$409,917 

$650,933 

81,945,844 

82,876,699 

$85,729 

$408,824 

819,  774 

87,500 

812,500 

$107,  500 

$259,000 

82,550 

$81)3, 128 

877,353 

847,300 

842,000 

$215, 500 

$468,875 

$12,100 

$2,159,876 

$240,819 

8222.312 

$203, 455 

$627,  7.58 

$834,726 

$3U,  WJ6 

$2,965,5.07 

$190,312 

$132,805 

$292, 9.S3 

3995, 086 

$1,314,098 

$40, 273 

85 

11 

1 

22 

34 

13 

4 

189 

24 

16 

42 

50 

48 

9 

$226,625 

832,150 

$18,730 

836,449 

864,620 

$67,924 

$6,752 

43 

12 

4 

4 

9 

11 

3 

$82, 660 

819,000 

$7,560 

$5, 400 

8-23,900 

824,600 

$2,200 

146 

12 

12 

38 

41 

37 

6 

$143,965 

813,1.50 

811,170 

$31,049 

$40,720 

843,324 

$4,552 

118 

10 

8 

33 

31 

30 

6 

$129, 788 

812,200 

88,500 

828, 149 

$36,805 

$39,582 

$4,652 

28 

2 

4 

5 

10 

7 

$14,177 
5,504 

8950 

82  070 

32, 900 
684 

$3,915 
1,647 

$3,742 
2,299 

519 

176 

179 

4,355 

353 

156 

489 

1,211 

2,068 

78 

4,932 

430 

163 

600 

1,444 

2,209 

86 

$1,  563,  442 

8151,254 

$13,821 

$163,454 

$454,947 

$736,888 

$14,078 

1,367 

140 

56 

146 

337 

660 

38 

$671,516 

$68,638 

822,535 

870,315 

8149,479 

$361,686 

$8,865 

3,173 

241 

80 

447 

1,001 

1,379 

25 

$828,752 

$74, 138 

818,059 

892,034 

$287, 328 

8353,637 

$3,536 

392 

•    49 

27 

7 

106 

180 

23 

863,194 

$8,480 

83,227 

81,105 

$18, 140 

$30,565 

$1,  677 

1,393 

148 

69 

148 

362 

,   641 

45 

1,398 

143 

59 

154 

357 

640 

45 

1,441 

148 

59 

161 

375 

651 

47 

1,439 

145 

60 

167 

377 

655 

35 

1,408 

138 

59 

154 

377 

649 

31 

1,280 

128 

44 

118 

315 

637 

38 

1,249 

123 

35 

132 

272 

644 

43 

1,270 

132 

59 

137 

271 

647 

24 

1,345 

148 

58 

143 

309 

652 

35 

1,384 

144 

58 

150 

334 

660 

38 

1,390 

141 

60 

145 

361 

653 

40 

1,407 

140 

59 

144 

351 

671 

39 

3, 203 

239 

82 

466 

1,021 

1,366 

29 

3,191 

226 

82 

467 

1,021 

1,366 

29 

3,229 

253 

86 

469 

1,025 

1,368 

29 

3,144 

247 

82 

465 

945 

1,380 

26 

3,124 

239 

82 

439 

945 

1,393 

26 

2,979 

232 

66 

374 

899 

1,382 

26 

3,075 

223 

66 

419 

%9 

1,378 

20 

3,114 

232 

80 

426 

982 

1,379 

15 

3, 216 

251 

84 

454 

1,021 

1,384 

22 

3,261 

249 

84 

467 

1,053 

1,384 

24 

3,274 

250 

86 

456 

1,073 

1,384 

26 

3,266 

252 

81 

462 

1,063 

1,381 

24 

410 

66 

29 

7 

112 

169 

27 

386 

49 

29 

7 

lU 

163 

27 

409 

51 

29 

8 

120 

174 

27 

401 

49 

29 

8 

122 

173 

20 

392 

39 

29 

6 

116 

180 

23 

372 

35 

19 

4 

110 

180 

24 

371 

41 

18 

7 

103 

181 

21 

371 

42 

29 

8 

100 

181 

11 

386 

58 

29 

8 

86 

184 

21 

391 

54 

29 

8 

93 

181 

23 

414 

57 

29 

9 

98 

194 

27 

401 

52 

29 

8 

97 

192 

23 

11 
11 

7 

n 

2 

2 

4 

39 
117 
25 

430 

4 

60 
6 

129 

20 
20 
12 

13 

14 

4 
23 

1 

20 

63 

200 

5 

1,136 

122 

5 

63 

666 

278 

2 

4,300 

3,400 

900 

38,300 

10 
38 

47 
124 

j 

36,600 

1,800 

10 

38 
41 
21 

:  Ohio,  1. 

6 
103 

1:  Indiana,  1 

Iributed  as  fnlln 

\vs:  Conneetic 

ut,  2;  Georgia 

72 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  36.— COTTON  SMALL  WARES,  BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


United  Stsitcs 


Massachu- 
setts. 


New  Jersey. 


New  York. 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


Rhode 
Island. 


All  other 
states.' 


Machinery — Continued. 

Looms,  number — Continued. 

On  tapes  and  other  narrow  goods 

On  bags  and  other  special  fabrics 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total ■. 

Rent  of  norks 

Taxes,  not  including?  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  othces,  interest,  insurance,  and  all  sundry 

expenses  not  hitherto  included 

Contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Cotton- 
Domestics,  other  than  sea-island,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill — 

Cotton,  pounds 

Cost 

Woolen,  pounds 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk,  pounds . . ; 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Other  varus,  pounds 

Cost 

Waste  of  other  mills,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil,  gallons 

Cost 

Starch,  pounds 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dye  stutf  s 

Fuel 

Kent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products: 

Total  value 

Upholstery  goods — 

Tapestries,  piece  goods,  and  curtains,  square  yards. 

Value -. . 

Tape  and  webbing,  val ue 

Y'arns  for  sale,  pounds 

Value 

Sewing  cotton,  pounds 

Value 

Twine,  pounds ^. . 

Value '. . 

Waste  for  sale,  pounds 

Value 

Other  products  of  cotton 

All  other  products 

Goods  exported  during  the  year  ending  June  30, 1900 

Weight  of  products,  pounds: 

Piece  goods ■ 

Y'arns  spun  and  not  woven  in  the  mill 

Other  products 

Dyeing  and  mercerizing  cloth  and  yarn  in  cotton  mills: 
Dyeing — 

Y'arn,  pounds 

Additional  value  given  by  dyeing 

Mercerizing— 

Y'arn,  pounds 

Additional  value  given  by  mercerizing 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year ". 

Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned— 

Engines — 

Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels,  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Other  power,  horsepower 

Rented — 

Electric,  horsepower 

Other  kind,  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed, 
not  including  proprietors  and  firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

Under  5 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

Bl  to  100 

101  to  250 

251  to  500 

501  to  1,000 


2,202 
2,649 

»462,534 
851,543 
825, 931 

8275, 621 
8109, 439 

83, 110, 137 

7,213 
3, 640, 87S 
8264,541 

10, 860, 648 

81,873,032 

274, 351 

$91,251 

47. 308 

$33,414 

43, 709 

$134,296 

9,852 

$25,394 

718, 444 

$139,666 

349,500 

$2,310 

19,458 

.  $3,935 

144, 430 

8:!.908 

$46, 339 

S69, 578 

$23, 381 

$101,576 

$284, 652 

$12, 864 

86,394,164 

3.5,000 

$35, 000 

$2, 192. 601 

116.609 

$27, 403 

165, 996 

$83,453 

510, 468 

$71,465 

761,857 

811,336 

$2,711,268 

81,261,638 

$23, 447 

735,154 

168, 605 

10,373,860 


1,607,271 
8107, 689 

10,000 
$1,000 

54 
84,914,272 
$4,095,927 

80 
6,221 


48 

4,425 

4 

46 

19 

1,060 

5 

245 

10 

159 

276 

40 


282 
20 

$31,754 
$5,362 
$4,515 

$21,877 


$321,007 

200 
100,189 

$6, 718 

1,767,690 
$255, 157 


250 
8150 


1,042 

$407 

6,600 

$390 

2,157 

$425 

12,355 

$493 

81,172 

$6,690 

$3,510 

$18,061 

$26,543 

$1,291 

$646,848 


$216,336 


340, 379 

84,027 

$345,905 

$81,580 

$300 

241,454 


1,021,660 


10 
$562,141 
$484,312 

13 
800 


6 
435 

1 
36 

5 
240 


8 

42 

$25,265 
$1,000 
$1,086 

$17,954 
$5,225 

$230,892 


66 

7 

$34,497 

815,240 

$905 

815, 152 
83,200 

8160,876 


1,173 
411 

820.5,117 
822,179 
$4,222 

888,306 
890,410 

$938,058 


1,126,016 

$168,360 

421 

$346 


400 

$1,700 


302, 625 
$21,633 


1,014,020 

$304, 778 

40,190 

837, 875 

18,700 

811,375 

4,771 

$20, 187 

703 

$3,010 

96,660 

815, 170 


160 
$58 


841 
$173 


$3,000 
$3,604 
81,200 
$2, 370 
837,307 
81,414 

$390,477 


81.777 
83, 749 
$2,298 
$56,372 
84.112 

$840, 017 

35,000 
$36,000 
$91,000 


3, 632, 287 

$.595,864 

233,000 

$52,660 

25, 916 

819,962 

22,410 

$100,  Ml 

9,149 

822,384 

165, 727 

83S.858 

3,000 

8750 

2.570 

$698 

14,000 

8400 

$1,228 

$11,502 

$11,296 

817,070 

860, 138 

84,407 

82,026,227 


8907,516 


74,000 
$37,000 


6,000 

$75 

$330, 402 

$23,000 

8900 


$105,254 
8608,  .763 


1,153,330 


486,000 
$58,000 


1,171,244 


300 

8105 

S62S, 771 

$489, 835 

88, 262 

208, 700 

'2,'69i,'749' 


3 

$165, 283 
$129, 560 

5 
264 


254 
1 
6 


9 
$685,500 
$426,  700 

18 
290 


4 
120 
2 
4 
2 
36 


$1,659,062 
$1,267,143 

24 
974 


14 
803 


20 

146 

5 


2,158 

$155,  731 
86, 612 
$14,818 

$123,697 
$10,604 

81,096;455 

6,718 
3,402,898 
8247, 489 

2,916,843 

8515,415 

740 

8370 

1,675 

81,340 

16,128 

811,668 


•152,390 
863.598 


12, 515 

$2,351 
113, 075 

$2,890 
$40, 689 
844,670 

$3,626 
$60,931 
8101.430 


82,379,500 


$963, 249 

116,609 

$27,403 

91,996 

$16,463 


396. 178 
$6,829 
$1, 282, 946 
$52,620 
$13, 985 

285,000 

168,605 

3,660,771 


1,122,271 
$49,689 

10,000 
81,000 

10 
81,941,191 
81,708,859 

16 
3,553 


18 
2,623 


9 
634 

4 

240 

10 


5 
11 

810, 170 

81,160 

8385 

88,635 


$62,849 

296 
137.791 
810,334 

403, 792 
$13,458 


767 

$587 


390,000 
81.170 
1,225 
$230 
5,000 
$125 
8250 
81,435 


8846 
82,862 
81,552 

Sill,  095 


$15,500 


510.468 
$71,465 

20,000 

S30U 

817,990 

$5,840 


775,206 


5 
$111,095 
$79,353 

4 
340 


3 
190 


3 

150 


■Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,  2;  Georgia,  1;  Indiana,  1;  Ohio,  1. 


WOOL. 


(73) 


WOOL  MANUFACTURES, 

ALSO  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS,  SHODDY,  AND  FUR  HATS. 


By  William  J.  Battison,  Expert  Special  Agent. 


The  Eleventh  Census  completed  the  statistical  record 
of  the  wool  uianufacture  in  the  United  States  for  its 
first  hundred  jears  under  the  factory  systenL  The 
Twelfth  Census  closed  the  record  for  the  Nineteenth 
century  and  established  the  point  of  departure  for  the 
Twentieth. 

At  the  census  of  1890  the  .statistics  of  the  industry 
were  presented  more  in  detail  than  ever  before.  The 
schedules  prepared  for  the  census  of  1900  were  in  most 
respects  identical  with  those  used  ten  years  earlier. 
The  returns  received  were  generally  prepared  with  care, 
and  with  a  fair  understanding  of  the  purport  of  the 
inquiries. 

The  expert  special  agent  desires  to  express  his  appre- 
ciation of  the  uniform  courtesy  shown  bj'  manufac- 
turers in  the  preparation  of  their  reports,  and  in 
response  to  his  requests  for  information  needed  to  com- 
plete reports  lacking  in  .some  details,  or  where  through 
misunderstanding  the  questions  were  not  properly 
answered. , 

Care  was  taken  at  the  Eleventh  Census  to  properly 
group,  so  far  as  possible,  the  statistics  of  the  various 
branches  of  the  industry  according  to  the  general  char- 
acter of  the  production  of  mills,  and  the  tables  then 
prepared  were  made  the  basis  of  improved  tables  in  1900. 

The  industry  is  divided  into  groups,  as  in  1890,  under 
the  general  heads  of  woolen  goods,  including  carding 
mills;  worsteds;  carpets,  other  than  rag;  felt  goods; 
and  wool  hats;  and,  separately  given,  is  a  report  on 
wool  .scouring  and  wool  pulling,  which  has  not  hitherto 
been  attempted.  The  statistics  of  the  hosiery  and 
knit  goods  manufacture  are  presented  in  connection 
with  those  of  the  wool  manufacture  in  certain  tables  for 
conipai'ati\e  purposes.  Formerly  the  larger  propor- 
tion of  the  raw  material  consumed  in  this  industry  jvas 
wool,  so  that  it  was  proper  to  combine  the  reports  of 
this  industry  with  those  of  the  wool  manufacture.  At 
the  present  time  the  cotton  fiber  predominates  so 
greatly  that  the  industry  can  hardly  be  considered  as  a 
branch  of  the  wool  industry,  but  should  be  treated  as 
an  independent  or  cognate  industry.  The  manufacture 
of  shodd}'  and  the  recovery  of  the  waste  products  of 
the  wool  manufactun',  which  are  currently  known  under 
the  general  term    "■  shoddy,"  was  reported   upon   the 


special  .schedule  with  the  wool  manufacture.  The  sta- 
tistics are  contained  in  this  report,  but  are  separately 
given.  The  fur  hat  manufacture  is  also  reported  here- 
with, not  as  a  part  of  the  wool  manufacture,  but  be- 
cause the  two  are  closely  related  in  raw  material  and 
products,  and  because  the  fur  hat  manufacture  has 
largely  superseded  the  wool  hat  manufacture.  Here- 
tofore the  i-eports  for  fur  hats  have  been  so  combined 
with  those  for  straw  and  silk  hats  that  it  has  been  im- 
possible to  obtain  satisfactory  statistics  of  the  industry. 
Table  1  shows  the  comparative  statistics  of  the  wool 
manufacture,  including  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  1880  to 
1900,  with  percentages  of  increase. 

Table  1.— WOOL  MANUFACTURE,  INCLUDING  HOSIERY 
AND  KNIT  GOODS,  COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1880  to 
1900,  WITH  PERCENTAGES  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH 
DECADE. 


Number  of  establish- 

meuts 

Capital 

Salaried  officials, 
clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average 

number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and 

over 

Wages 

Women,  16   years 

and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16 

years 

Wages 

Miscellaneousexpenses 
Cost  of  materials  used. 
Value  of  products 


DATE  OF   CENSUS. 


lilOO 


2.33.5 
$392,040,353 

7,304 
S9,  .580, 293 

242,495 
$82,292,444 

104,525 
S45, 303, 600 

117. 706 
533, 793, 231 

20, 264 

S3, 195,613 

S23, 929, 797 

$232,230,986 

$392,473,050 


1S90 


ISSO 


$296, 
=$5, 
$70, 
$39, 
$28, 


:,  4,S9 
,481 


$19, 
$203, 
$337, 


=5, 
742, 

213, 
917, 

93, 
743, 

105, 
889, 

14, 
2.S5. 
249, 
095, 
7G8, 


273 

848 

859 
894 

396 
431 

770 
244 

693 
219 
508 
672 
6M 


2,689 
$159,091,869 


161,557 
$47,389,087 

75,4.59 
P) 

66, 814 


19,284 

$164,371,551 
$267,252,913 


PER  CENT  or 
INCREASE. 


1$90 

to 
I'JOO 

1S80 

to 
1890 

'6.2 
32.2 

'7.4 
86.4 

38.5 
66.8 

13.4 
16.0 

32.4 
49.6 

11.9 
14.0 

23.8 

11.3 
17.0 

58.3 

37.9 
39.8 

123.8 


24.3 
14.3 
16.2 


23.6 
26.4 


1  Decrease. 

2  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only 
reported  in  1900.  but  not  included  in  this  table. 

sNot  reported  separately. 
*Not  reported. 

The  whole  number  of  establishments  reporting  on 
the  special  schedules  for  wool  manufactures  and  hosiery 
and  knit  goods  was  2,653,  viz,  1,03.5  woolen  mills,  in- 
cluding carding  mills:  186  worsted  mills;  133  carpet 
manufactories:  36  felt  goods  factories;  24  wool  hat  mills; 
921  hosiery  and  knit  goods  factories;  171  fur  hat  facto- 

(75) 


76 


MANUFACTURES. 


ries;  10;")  shoddy  mills;  and  25  wool-soourin<j  plants;  also 
thelTcdiu-ational,  oloemosynary,  and  ponal  institutions 
shown  in  the  following  table.  One  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  establishments  were  idle  durinir  the  census  _vcai% 
117  of  which  were  wool  manufactories  and  30  were 
hosier}^  and  knit  goods  mills.  The  fur  hat  factories, 
shoddy  mills,  and  wool-scouring  estuhlishments,  given 
above,  are  not  included  in  the  general  tal)ulation  for  the 
wool  manufacture  (Table  29),  because  such  mills  were 
not  so  reported  in  1890.  Deducting  these,  and  the  17 
educational,  eleemosynary,  and  penal  institutions,  and 
the  whole  number  reported  for  the  wool  and  hosiery 
and  knit  goods  manufactures  was  2,335.  At  the  census 
of  1890  a  total  of  2, -489  similar  mills  was  reported. 
The  decrease  in  number  was  154,  equal  to  6.2  per  cent. 
That  this  does  not  indicate  any  curtailment  of  the  in- 
dustry is  shown  by  Table  5,  giving  the  machinery  of 
the  wool  manufacture,  1880  to  1900. 

Table  2  is  a  summary  for  wool  manufactures,  includ- 
ing hosiery  and  knit  goods,  in  educational,  eleemosynary, 
and  penal  institutions,  1890  and  1900. 

The  work  carried  on  in  educational,  eleemosj'iiarv, 
and  penal  institutions  that  employed  the  wool  or  cotton 
fiber  was  confined  largely  to  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods 
manufacture.  Only  4  of  these  institutions  manufac- 
tured woolen  goods  in  1900.  These  were  located  in 
Iowa,  Massachusetts,  New  York,  and  Texas.  The  17 
institutions  reporting  had  an  aggregate  capital  of 
8588,305,  of  which  8169,765  was  invested  in  machiner}^ 
tools,  and  implements.  They  employed  71  superin- 
tendents, managers,  and  clerks,  and  operated  17  sets  of 
woolen  card:>,  7,472  woolen  spindles,  and  2,936  cotton 
spindles  (of  which  64  were  doubling  spindles),  79  broad 
looms,  22  narrow  looms,  and  96  hand  looms  on  woolen 


f)r  mixed  goods.  The}'  consumed  379,319  pounds  of 
wool,  123,747  pounds  of  cotton.  I'lii  pounds  of  woolen 
yarn,  470  pounds  of  merino  yarn,  and  890,450  pounds 
of  cotton  yarn,  and  other  materials,  costing  in  all 
8450.905,  and  produced  goods  to  the  value  of  8644,607, 
of  which  8269,764  were  woolen  goods,  consisting  prin- 
cipally of  flannels,  blankets,  and  satinets,  and  8374,848 
of  hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

T.4.i)LB  2.— WOOL  MANUFAC'TL'KES,  COMPARATIVE  SUM- 
MARY, INCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS;  EDU- 
CATIONAL, ELEEMOSYNARY,  AND  PENAL  INSTITU- 
TIONS: 1890  AND  1900. 


Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
institu- 
tions. 

EMPLOYEES. 

Miscel- 
laneous 

ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of 
mate- 
rials 
used. 

Value 

STATES. 

1  Total  1    Total 
num-    amount 
ber.    1    paid. 

of 
prod- 
ucts. 

United  States.. 

1900 
1890 

17 
14 

584  8113,778 
1,419  1    88,279 

824,191 

$450,905 
279,800 

S&44,607 
462,585 

1900 
11S90 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

3 

481 

61,982 

j    9,305 

84,283 

1%,990 

Xew  York  3 

Pennsylvania  ■" 

All  other  states ^ ... 

3 
3 

3 
3 

8 
8 

27 
604 

8 
432 

68 
383 

26,123 
24,697 

10,  708 
36,069 

14,965 
27,522 

7,281 
(') 

7,605 

143,596 

53,708 

32,653 
132,181 

190,373 
93,911 

178,924 
97,995 

55,978 
196,306 

212, 715 

168,284 

1  Not  reported. 

-  Institutions  in  Illinois:  1900.  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  3. 

^Institutions  in  New  York:  1900,  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  2;  woolen  goods,  1. 
1890,  hosiery  and  knit  goods.  3. 

^Institu'ions  in  Pennsylvania:  1900.  hosiery  and  knitgoods,3.  1890,  hosiery 
and  knit  goods.  1;  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag.  2. 

5 Includes  institutions  distributed  as  follows:  1900.  Iowa,  1  (woolen  goods); 
Massachusetts,!  (woolen  goods);  Missouri,  1  (hosiery  and  knit  goods);  New  Jer- 
sey, 1  (hosiery  and  knit  goods);  Ohio.  1  {hosiery  and  knitgoods);  Tennessee.  1 
(hosiery  and  knitgoods);  Texas,  1  (woolen  goodst;  Wisconsin,  1  (hosiery  and 
knitgoods).  1890. Maryland.  1  (hosiery  and  knit  goods);  Minnesota,  1  (hosiery 
and  knit  goods);  New  Hampshire,  1  (hosiery  and  knit  goods);  Ohio,  2  (hosiery 
and  knit  goods);  Texas,  1  (woolen  goods);  Virginia,  1  (hosiery  (uid  knit  goods) ; 
Wisconsin,  1  (hosiery  and  knit  goods). 


THE  WOOL  MANUFACTURE. 

Table  3  presents  a  comparative  summar}'  of  the  wool  manufacture  as  returned  at  each  census  from  1850  to  1900, 
inclusive,  with  the  pei'centages  of  inci'ease  for  each  decade. 

Table  3.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES,    COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,    ISoO   TO  1900,    WITH  PER  CENT  <)F  INCREASE  FOR 

EACH  DECADE. 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 


1900 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenscf^ 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


$310, 

S6, 

857, 

S36, 

819, 

SI, 
$17, 
$181, 
$296, 


1,414 
179, 749 
4,495 
455,495 
159, 108 
933, 817 

83,371 
112, 872 

64,141 
519, 423 

11,596 
971,522 
329, 932 
159, 127 
990,484 


1890 


1,693 

$245, 886,  743 

83,652 

3$4,057,695 

154,271 

$.54,339,775 

78,550 

S33, 702, 231 

51,944 

818, 883, 174 

10, 777 

$1, 754, 370 

$15,622,263 

$167,233,987 

$270, 527, 511 


1880 


2,330 
$143, 512, 278 

(*) 

132, 672 
$40,687,612 

67,942 
(*) 

49, 107 
(<) 

15,623 

h 

$149, 160, 600 
$238,085,686 


1870 


3,208 
8121,451,059 

•« 
105, 071 
$35, 928, 150 
53,400 
(*) 
39,150 
(*) 
12,521 

$124, 318, 792 
$199,257,262 


1860' 


$i: 


1,476 
$38,814,422 

60,419 

, 699, 630 

29, 852 

20,567 

$43,447,048 
$73, 454, 000 


1850 


1.675 
$31,971,631 

!:] 

45,438 

26,559 

<*} 
18, 879 

^\ 

$28,831,583 
$48, 608, 779 


PEE   CEST  OF  INCREASE. 


1890 

to 
1900 


=  16.5 

26.1 

23.1 

59.1 

3.1 

6.6 

6.1 

8.0 

=  1.2 

3.5 

7.6 

12.4 

10.9 

8.3 

9.8 


1880     1870 

to         to 
1890     1880 


227.3 
71.3 


16.3 
33.6 
15.6 


12.1 
13.6 


227.4 
18.2 


26.3 
13.2 
27.2 


32.3  I    25.4 
i'si.o'    "24.' s" 


20.0 
19.5 


1860 

to 
1870 


117.3 
212.9 


108.4 

207.1 

78.9 


90.4 


186.1 
171.3 


1850 

to 
1S60 


«11.9 
21.4 


11.0 
'i2."4 
"8.9 


50.7 
61.1 


1  Carding  mills  were  not  Included  in  1860. 

'  Decrease. 

^Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  laOO,  but  not  included  in  this  table.     (See  Table  30.) 

*  Not  reported  separately. 
E'Not  fvilly  reported. 

*  Not  reported. 


WOOL. 


77 


The  taJ)le  show.'s  tluit  there  has  lieen  a  satisfactory 
increase  in  the  iiidustrv  in  capital,  wage-eartier.s,  wages, 
cost  of  niatei'ials  used,  and  value  of  products  during  the 
half  century.  The  greatest  increase  in  value  of  prod- 
ucts, $125,803,202,  and  the  greatest  percentage  of  in- 
crease, 171.3,  were  during  the  decade  ending  with  isjo. 
This  was  also  the  period  of  greatest  increase  in  estal)- 
lishnients,  wage-earners,  wages,  and  cost  of  materials 
used.  The  exti'aordinarv  growth  during  this  decade 
was  due  largely  to  the  demand  foi'  woolens  for  army 
purposes  and  to  the  cotton  famine. 

CONDITIONS    IN    1900. 

The  year  liioo  was  an  unfortunate  one  for  an  official 
investigation  of  the  wool  manufacture.  It  was  a  j'ear  of 
unusual  fluctuations  in  prices,  and  of  severe  losses  in  the 
wool  market.  The  machinery  in  many  mills  was  only 
in  partial  operation,  or  run  on  part  time,  and  production 
was  on  a  scale  less  than  normal.  Like  the  preceding 
year,  it  was  marked  by  unusual  conditions,  both  as  to 
the  chief  raw  material  and  manufactui-ed  products. 

A  remarkable  speculative  rise  in  the  price  of  wool 
occurred  in  ISO'.t.  Ohio  XX  wool,  which  was  quoted  in 
April  in  Boston  at  26i  cents  a  pound,  at  the  close  of 
the  year  had  advanced  to  35  and  36  cents,  or  over  30 
per  cent.  During  the  same  period  Port  Phillip  (Aus- 
ti'alia)  average  greasv  wool  advanced  in  London  from 
20  cents  to  35  cents,  an  advance  of  75  per  cent.  These 
advances  were  followed  by  a  sudden  collapse  in  the 
market  abroad,  which  was  reflected  here  by  a  fall  in 
Ohio  XX  wool  to  29  and  30  cents  in  June,  1900.  The 
Bradford  (England)  Observer,  in  its  review  of  the  wool 
market  in  December,  1900,  says  of  this  period: 

If  a  vote  were  taken  on  'Change  to-da_v,  the  answer  woulil  be 
almost  unanimous  that  1900  has  lieeii  tlie  worst  year  we  ever  had. 
To  understand  this  year  we  must  go  liat-k  at  least  two  )'ears.  About 
the  middle  of  1898  it  began  to  l>e  clear  that  the  commerce  of  the 
world  had  entered  upon  a  period  of  expansion.  Toward  the  end 
of  1898  business  began  to  look  up,  especially  in  those  goods  which 
are  made  from  merino,  and  prices  began  slowly  to  harden,  and  at 
the  London  sales  it  looked  as  if,  after  all,  there  might  be  a  short- 
age of  merino.  Men  said  that  we  were  entering  upon  an  era  of 
higher  prices.  They  lost  their  timidity,  and  toward  the  end  of 
the  year  became  aVisolutely  reckless.  The  value  of  60's  Botany 
tops,  which  had  been  20Jd.  before  the  rise  began  at  the  end  of 
1898,  had  in  twelve  months  risen  to  341d.  per  pound.  The  high 
price  killed  the  trade,  and  there  was  collapse.  In  ten  months,  dur- 
ing which  there  was  very  little  selling,  the  price  fell  to  18d.  At 
the  end  of  last  year  the  trade  of  the  whole  world  was  in  a  prosper- 
ous condition,  and  the  tremendous  collapse  which  occurred  took 
everybody  by  surprise.  The  plain  lesson  is  that  wool  is  w-ool, 
whether  it  be  mei-ino  or  crossbred  and  that  no  chi-ss  of  raw  mate- 
rial can  for  long  maintain  a  price  which  is  out  of  all  proportion 
higher  than  another. 

These  sudden  changes  in  wool  prices,  and  the  stren- 
uous competition  for  business,  led  to  the  failure  or 
licjuidation  of  many  large  and  until  then  prosperous 
concerns,  and  was  largely  instrumental  in  bringing 
about  consolidations  of  establishments  under  one  man- 
agement. 

Two  important  changes  in  the  taiitl'  l;iws  occurre(l 


during  the  decade.  Under  the  first-  the  law  of  1894: — 
wool,  which  had  been  dutiable  at  nearly  the  same  rates 
for  twenty -seven  years,  was  put  upon  the  free  list,  and 
imports  of  manufactures  of  wool  which  had  l)een  for 
the  same  period  subjected  to  a  duty,  partly  .specific  and 
partly  ad  valorem,  were  placed  on  an  ad  valorem  basis. 
The  second  change  came  with  the  tarifl'  of  1897,  when 
wool  was  replaced  on  the  dutiable  list  at  nearly  the 
same  rates  as  formerly,  and  the  compound  system  of 
duties  again  applied  to  woolen  goods. 

IMPORTS    OF   WOOL. 

The  efl'ect  of  these  laws  on  the  imports  of  wool  was 
very  marked,  as  is  shown  in  the  following  tables. 

The  imports  of  wool  for  the  seven  years  ending  June 
30,  1S90,  under  the  tarifl'  law  of  1883,  were: 


Total, 
pounds. 

■Yearly  aver- 
age, pounds. 

Class  1 

ir>0, 497,317 
45,285,291 
.531,764,968 

22,928,188 

Class  2                                 

6, 469, 327 
75, 966, 424 

Class  8 

737,547,576 

105,363,939 

The  tarifl'  law  of  1890  became  operative  Ofctober  6  in 
that  year,  and  continued  in  force  until  August  28,  1891:. 
It  did  not  greatly  change  the  duties  previously  existing 
on  wool  and  woolens.  The  total  imports  of  wool  under 
this  law  were: 


Total, 
pounds. 

Yearly  aver- 
age, pounds. 

Class  1      ' 

134,408,715 

18,587,124 

342,430,886 

34,317,120 

Class  2 

4, 745,  MS 

Class  3       

87,429,162 

495,426,725 

126,491,930 

From  September  1.  1891,  to  August  1,  1897,  the 
period  of  the  operation  of  the  law  of  189-i,  the  imports 
of  wool  were: 


Total', 
pounds. 

Yearly  aver- 
age, pounds. 

413,784,829 

70,127,994 

310,654,503 

141,869,084 

Class  2 

24, 013,  .S84 

106,510, 115 

.794,567,320 

272, 423, 083 

In  the  fiiscal  3'ear  1896-97  occurred  the  largest  inipor- 
tiition  of  foreign  wool  ever  known  in  the  history  of  the 
United  States  for  any  one  j-ear.  amounting  to  350,852,026 
pounds. 

Between  August  1,  1897,  and  June  30,  1900,  under 
the  present  law  the  imports  of  wool  were: 


Total, 
pounds. 

Yearly  aver- 
age, pounds. 

Class  1  

SI.  947, 914 

1.5.894,619 

245,339,749 

28,096,428 

Class  2 •- 

5,449,585 
84,116.485 

343,182.282 

117,662,498 

78 


MANUFACTURES. 


The  total  iiiiportation^;  fi-oiii  Oc'to})pr.  1S90.  to  June 
30,  VMH).  were: 


Total, 
pounds. 

Yearly  aver- 
age, pounds. 

Class  1          .  .                   

630,141,458 
104,609,737 
898, 425, 138 

64,629,893 

Class  2 

10,729,204 

Class  3.                        

92,146,168 

1,633,176,333 

167,505,265 

The  average  annual  import.s  for  the  lirst  period  of 
the  decade  were  126,491,930  pounds;  in  the  second, 
272,-123,083  pounds;  and  in  the  third,  117,662,198 
pounds.  The  average  for  the  decade  was  167,505,265 
pounds,  a  quantit}-  more  than  60,000,000  pounds  in 
excess  of  the  average  importations  under  the  law  of 
1883.  By  far  the  greater  part  of  the  increased  impor- 
tations was  of  class  1  wools. 

IMPORTS   OF    WOOL    GOODS. 

The  imports  of  wool  goods  show  a  similar  increase. 
The  annual  average  for  the  first  period  was  §31.102.288 
in  value;  for  the  second,  ^IT, 312, 661.  The  ver}'  large 
imports  of  this  period  were  followed  by  much  smaller 
imports  than  usual,  and  in  the  third  period  the  annual 
average  amounted  to  only  S^ll.  186.264. 

The   imports   of   wool  goods  for  these   periods   by 


years   M'crc  as  follows,    values    only   being   given,   as 
ijuantities  of  certain  kinds  of  goods  are  not  olttainable: 

Nine  months  ending  June  30,  189! $24,  204, 780 . 

Year  ending  June  30,  1892 35, 565, 879 

Year  nuUuj:  June  30,  1893 38,  048, 515 

Year  ending  June  30,  1894 19,  439,  372 

July  and  August  1894 4,  .5.58,  747 

Total 121 ,  817,  293 

Annual  average 31,  102,  288 

Ten  month.s  ending  June  30,  1895 31,981,143 

Year  ending  June  30,  1896 .53,  494,  400 

Year  ending  June  30,  1897 49, 162, 992 

July,  1897 3,444,234 

Total 138, 082,  769 

Annual  average 47, 342, 664 

Eleven  months  ending  June  30,  1898 11,  379, 537 

Year  ending  June  30,  1899 13,  832,  621 

Year  ending  June  30,  1900 16,  164,  446 

Total 41,  376,  604 

Annual  average 14, 186,  264 

RANK    OF    STATES    IX  WOOL   MANUFACTURE  ACCORDING  TO 
VALUE    OF    PRODUCT. 

Table  1  shows  the  rank  of  the  10  states  having  the 
greatest  value  of  product  in  the  wool  manufacture,  and 
their  relative  rank  in  each  of  the  various  branches,  1890 
and  1900. 


Table  -l.— WOOL  MANUFACTURE— RANK  OF  STATES,  BY  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1890  AND  1900. ' 


TOTAL,   ALL  BEANCHES. 

WOOLEN  GOODS. 

WORSTED  GOODS. 

States. 

Rank. 

1900        Rank. 

1890 

States. 

Rank. 

1900 

Rank. 

1890 

States. 

Rank. 

1900 

Rank. 

1890 

Massachusetts  . 
Pennsylvania.. 

1 
2 
3 
4 
5 

6 
7 
8 
9 
10 

881,041,537 
71,878,503 
38,671,879 
30, 813, 339 
13, 793, 144 

13,412,784 
12, 637, 032 
7,624,062 
2, 572,  646 
1,517,194 

2 
1 
3 
4 

7 

8 
5 
6 
10 
16 

$67,  599, 321 

72,393,182 

32,  204, 629 

28,  .563, 569 

8, 528, 070 

7,521,317 
13,733,895 
10, 769, 240 
2,723,683 
1,216,419 

Massachusetts. 
Pennsylvania . 

1 
2 
3 
4 
5 

6 
7 
8 
9 
10 

$30,888,104 

25, 389, 344 

11,633,232 

8,097,218 

7, 624, 062 

6,715,005 
5, 330, 650 
4,755,393 
2, 572, 646 
1,517,194 

1 
2 
6 
4 
5 

8 
3 
7 

10 
16 

$35,771,161 

29,878,010 

7,521,317 

9,082,493 

8,004,264 

5, 188,  020 
9, 884, 945 
5,652,166 
2, 723, 683 
1,216,419 

Massachusetts 
Rhode  Island  . 
Pennsylvania. 
New  Jersey  . . . 
New  York..'... 

Connecticut  .. 
Maine 

N.  Hampshire. 

1 
2 

3 
4 
5 

6 

7 

$40,557,363 

33,341,329 

22, 109, 392 

6,823,721 

5,958,259 

4,539,814 
1,779,552 

2 
1 
3 
7 
4 

5 

6' 

821,933,776 
22, 319, 684 
17,861,776 

New  York 

New  Jersey 

Connecticut  .. 
N.  Hampshire. 

New  Y'ork 

Rhode  Island . 
New  Jersey  . . . 

Vermont 

Tennessee 

2, 058, 662 
5,763,102 

4,651,402 

Connecticut  ... 
N.Hampshire.. 

Vermont 

Tennessee 

2,764,976 

CARPETS  AKD   RCGS,   OTHER  THAN  RAG. 

FELT  GOODS. 

WOOL  HATS. 

States. 

Rank. 

1900 

Rank. 

1S90 

States. 

Rank. 

1900 

Rank. 

1890 

Stated- 

Rank. 

190O 

Rank. 

1890 

Pennsylvania.. 

New  York 

Ma.'isachusetts  . 
New  Jersey 

1 
2 

3 

4 

$23,113,058 
15, 029, 218 
6,  %6, 237 
1,522,827 

1 
2 
3 
4 

$22,886,416 

14,  606, 116 

7,275,009 

817, 242 

New  York 

Massachusetts 
New  Jersey  . . . 
Pennsylvania- 
Ohio 

1 
2 
3 
4 

SI,  734,  136 

1,526,830 

691,203 

160, 633 

m 

1 

4 

3 

$1,517,199 

918,890 
(-) 

322,800 
406,700 

New  York 

Pennsylvania . 
Ma.ssachusetts 

1 
2 
3 

$1,376,721 
1,106,076 
1,103,003 

2 
3 

1 

81,489,132 
1,444,180 
1,700,486 

1  This  table  does  not  include  statistics  of  establishments  under  3  in  the  various  subdivisions,  and  the  totals,  therefore,  are  less  than  in  the  detailed  statements 
at  the  end  of  this  report. 

=  Included  in  "  all  other  states  "  in  1890. 
^Included  in  "all  other  states"  in  1900. 


In  total  value  of  products  Ma.ssachusetts  led  in  1900, 
with  a  product  valued  at  $81,011,537;  it  was  second  in 
1890.  Pennsylvania,  first  in  1890,  was  second  in  1900, 
with  $71,878,503.  No  other  state  appi'oached  these  two. 
Rhode  Island  was  third  in  rank — the  same  position  it  held 
in  1890 — with  a  product  somewhat  less  than  half  that  of 
Massachusetts,  followed  bj'  New  York,  with  a  product 


not  quite  half  that  of  Pennsylvania.  New  Jei'sey, 
Maine,  and  Connecticut  were  very  close  together,  with 
but  little  over  11,000,000  difference  in  the  value  of 
their  products.  New  Hampshire  was  eighth,  with 
products  of  $7,624,062.  Vermont  had  $2,572,646.  and 
Tennessee  $1,517,194.  These  10  states  were  the  pro- 
ducers of  nearly  70  per  cent  of  the  total  wool  manufac- 


WOOL. 


79 


turcs  of  the  United  States.  Their  relative  standing  in 
the  various  branches  diH'ers  from  their  standitifjf  in  the 
coml)ined  industry.  In  the  manufacture  of  woolen  f^ood.s 
Mansachusetts  was  first  as  in  18'JOand  Pennsylvania  .sec- 
ond. Maine,  Connecticut,  and  New  Hampshire,  which 
ranked  sixth,  .seventh,  and  eighth  in  total  value,  were 
third,  fourth,  and  fifth,  respectively,  in  woolen  goods. 
New  York  was  sixth  and  Rhode  Island  seventh. 

In  worsted  manufactures  Mas.sachusetts  remained  in 
the  lead,  with  products  valued  at  $40,557,363,  followed 
by  Rhode  Island,  Penn.sylvania,  New  Jersey,  New  York, 
Connecticut,  and  Maine,  in  the  order  named.  In  the 
carpet  manufacture  Penn.sylvania  ranked  first,  as  in  1890, 
with  products  valued  at  $23,113,058,  followed  by  New 
York  with  $15,029,218.  :Ma.s.sachusetts  was  third  with 
$6,966,237,  and  New  Jersey  fourth.  The  manufacture 
of  felts  was  carried  on  in  36  establishments,  all  but  11 
of  which  were  in  the  states  of  New  York,  Massachusetts, 
New  Jersej",  and  Pennsj'lvania.  New  York  held  first 
rank,  closely  followed  by  Massachu.setts.  The  wool  hat 
manufacture  was  carried  on  principally  in  New  York, 
Pennsylvania,  and  Massachusetts;  New  York  leading  in 
production,  with  a  value  of  $1,376,721,  and  Massachu- 
setts coming  last,  with  products  valued  at  $1,103,003. 
The  three  states  were  almost  on  a  level  in  this  branch. 

The  following  is  the  rank  of  the  three  leading  cities 
in  the  wool  manufacture,  1890  and  1900: 

RANK  OF  THREE  LEADING  CITIES  ACCORDING  TO 
VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1880  TO  1900. 


1900 

1890 

1880 

Ranlt. 

Value  of 
products. 

Rank, 

Value  of 
products. 

Rank. 

Philadelphia,  Pa 

1 
2 
3 

$56,672,007 
25,584,744 
18, 375, 776 

.  1 
3 
2 

873, 713, 856 
10,431,192 
18,237,531 

1 

Lawrence  Mass 

2 

Providence,  R.I 

3 

Table  5.— MACHINERY   OF   WOOL  MANUFACTURE:  1880 
TO  1900. 


1900 

1890 

1880 

PEK  CENT  OF 
INCREASE. 

CLASSES. 

1890 

to 
1900 

■5.8 

72.9 

26.7 

6.5 

1880 

to 
1890 

6,605 

1,451 

3,611,099 

74,190 

7,015 

839 

2,793,147 

69,658 

6,989 

515 

2,111,973 

57,297 

0.4 

Combing  machines 

62.9 
32  3 

IxK)ms 

21  6 

1  Decrease. 


While  the  nuiiil)er  of  cards  reported  in  1900  was  6,605, 
against  7,015  in  1890 — a  decrease  of  410,  or  5.8  per 
cent — the  number  of  combing  machines  in  1900  was 
1,415,  against  839  in  1890,  or  an  increase  of  72.9  per 
cent.  Assuming  that  a  combing  machine  is  equal  in 
pi'oductive  capacity  to  2^  sets  of  cards,  and  stating  the 
elementary  productive  machinery  on  the  card  basis,  the 
year  1900  shows  the  equivalent  of  10,143  sets  of  cards, 
against  9,113  in  1890,  an  increase  of  11.3  per  cent  in 
productive  capacity.  The  increase  in  machinery  capac- 
ity has  been  accompanied  with  a  corresponding  increase 
in  the  quantity  of  raw  material  consumed  and  of  goods 
produced.  The  cost  of  materials  used  has  increased 
8.3  per  cent  and  the  value  of  products  9.8  per  cent. 

In  the  decade  1880-1890,  the  number  of  cards  in- 
creased 0.4  per  cent,  and  of  combs  62.9  per  cent.  A 
similar  calculation  to  that  above  shows  the  increase  in 
productive  capacity  in  that  decade  to  have  been  16.4 
per  cent,  a  ratio  of  increase  .somewhat  greater  than 
that  of  the  last  decade.  An  examination  of  the  increase 
by  spindles  and  looms  exhibits  a  much  greater  difl'er- 
ence.  The  percentage  of  increase  in  spindles  was  25.7 
from  1890  to  1900,  and  32.3  from  1880  to  1890.  In 
looms  the  increase  was  6.5  and  21.6  per  cent,  respect- 
ivelj'. 

None  of  these  percentages  of  increase,  however,  cor- 
rectly measure  the  intu-ease  of  manufacturing  capacitj-. 
Improvements  in  machinery  and  appliances,  and  in- 
creased size  of  machines,  added  very  considerabh'  to 
the  increased  capacity  of  the  latter  period.  It  is  .safe 
to  say,  in  a  general  way,  that  as  a  result  of  the  various 
improvements,  up-to-date  machinery  will,  on  the  same 
class  of  work,  produce  10  per  cent  more  than  was  pos- 
sible ten  years  ago.' 

CAKDING  MILLS. 

Table  6  presents  the  statistics  of  the  custom  carding 
mills. 

'  The  improvements  in  woolen  and  worsted  loom.s  have  been 
many  and  varied  during  the  past  ten  years,  facilitating  not  only  an 
increased  production  by  reason  of  the  higher  speed  at  which  it  is 
possible  and  profitable  to  operate  the  loom,  but  owing  also  to  the 
various  devices  embodied  in  their  construction,  which  aid  materi- 
ally in  the  ease  with  which  they  hancfle  the  warp  and  filling. 
Wiiile  ten  years  ago  broad  woolen  looms  were  operated  in  a  few 
instances  up  to  100  picks  per  minute,  to-day  looms  of  a  similar 
type  can  lie  run  at  from  115  to  120  picks,  and  in  some  special  cases 
where  the  loom  has  been  especially  designed  for  producing  a  par- 
ticular class  of  work,  a  speed  of  140  to  150  picks  per  minute  has 
been  found  to  give  very  satisfactory  results. 

Cbompton  &  KxowLEs  Loom  Works. 

Ch.\eles  F.  Hutchins,  President. 
Worcester,  Mass.,  December  ^S,  1901. 


80 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  0.— WOOL  CARDING— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  BY  STATES:  1890  AND  1900. 


Year. 

Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

WAGE-EABNERS. 

Miscella- 
neous ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of 
materials 

used. 

Value  of 
products. 

STAT  ES. 

Average 
number. 

Total 
wages. 

United  States 

1900 
1890 

231 
193 

$458,286 
385,411 

140 
1416 

S33,106 
'61,618 

S10,480 
13,802 

8395,110 
332,650 

$534, 512 

476,278 

1900 
1890 

9 

8 

8,175 
6,825 

5 

7 

843 
1,465 

225 
123 

14,664 
3,489 

20,163 

6,180 

1900 
1890 

n 

3 

15,025 
11,635 

6 
4 

930 
1,237 

258 
262 

16,148 
7,085 

21,930 

9,250 

1900 
1890 

9 
3 

7,111 
3,025 

6 
5 

835 
600 

103 
129 

7,761 
5,173 

11,547 

7,200 

=  1900 
1890 

7 

36,765 

32 

3,451 

912 

17,280 

23,738 

=  1900 
1890 

3 

4,700 

7 

2,000 

106 

11,052 

14,500 

Kentuckv .-. 

1900 
1890 

23 

15 

17,067 
23,1.56 

15 
39 

2,406 
5,075 

500 
952 

34,827 
46,894 

42,401 

62,92, 

1900 
1890 

20 
16 

56,488 
55,060 

13 
32 

4,478 
8,164 

1,174 
2,182 

48,126 
41,819 

65,15S 

64,633 

31900 
1890 

10 

18,295 

26 

4,186 

888 

19,931 

29,109 

1900 
1890 

5 
6 

13,650 

11,475 

2 
23 

600 
3,950 

483 
1,166 

13,666 
14,422 

18,350 

20,951 

1 1900 
1890 

3 

3,200 

5 

1,150 

55 

4,575 

6,2.50 

1900 
1890 

17 
12 

33,455 
21.799 

13 
23 

2,689 
2.003 

510 
1,007 

35,923 
14,819 

46,927 

21,530 

=  1900 
1890 

4 

5,925 

9 

1,210 

315' 

8,443 

12,200 

1900 
1890 

16 
21 

22,016 
54, 475 

2 
33 

450 
4,871 

729 
1,142 

19,967 
23,126 

27,869 

33,822 

1900 
1890 

9 
13 

7,943 
10,810 

2 
23 

242 
2,071 

51 
397 

5,313 
12,240 

6,824 

17,911 

Ohio 

1900 
1890 

3 

11,700 
14,020 

3 
25 

619 
3,125 

882 
705 

4,293 
7,397 

5,9M 

11,763 

Pennsvlvania             .        ...          .             .                .  .      . 

1900 
1890 

26 
14 

96,556 
25,233 

11 
21 

3,208 
2,843 

1,369 

877 

39,  M3 

16,782 

56,266 

24,500 

1900 
1890 

33 

19 

65,919 
17,9-53 

34 
33 

6.861 
4,366 

2,219 
467 

60,747 
27,832 

85,890 

38,135 

1900 
1890 

8 
7 

12,990 
8,585 

122 
795 

6,722 
9,133 

8,470 

9 

1,650 

12,783 

1900 
1890 

4 
5 

10,740 
16,010 

2 
9 

617 
1,477 

165 
268 

9,935 
5,816 

12,359 

9,300 

West  Virginia  t. 

1900 
1890 

12 

7 

8,337 
10,190 

3 

15 

725 
1,450 

236 

88 

15,258 
9,913 

17.946 

13.770 

1900 
1890 

15 
.  5 

53,194 
9,555 

21 
15 

7,318 
2,169 

1,740 
615 

49,318 
6,035 

69.811 

9.305 

1900 
1890 

11 
8 

17,925 
16,730 

o 
21 

2.55 
3,075 

314 
351 

12.605 
19,364 

16.920 

27.528 

>  Includes  lor  1890  proprietors  and  firm  members,  salaried  ofRcials,  clerks,  etc..  with  theirsalaries.it  being  impossible  to  segregate  these  cla&ses  from  wage- 
earners  for  that  census. 

-'Included  in  "all  other  states." 

^Xo  establishments  reported. 

'Includes  establishmenis  distributed  as  follows:  1900— Connecticut.  1;  Illinois.  1:  Indiana.  1;  Iowa.  1;  Mi.s.sissippi.  1;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Oregon.  2;  South 
Carolina,  1;  Texas,  1.    1890— Illinois,  2;  Maryland,  1;  Massachusetts,  1:  Oregon.  1;  South  Carolina,  1;  Texas.  1;  Utah.  1. 


These  carding  mills  are  small  concerns,  genei'ally 
operating  the  simplest  kind  of  a  carding  machine,  usualh' 
24  inches  in  M'idth.  On  this  machine  are  made  wool 
rolls  for  use  in  the  household  spinning  industry  from 
wool  brought  to  the  card  by  farmers  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. This  wool  is  frecjuently  carded  on  shares;  often 
the  trade  is  by  barter,  payment  being  made  in  yarn  or 
cloth,  if  the  mill  possesses  also  spinning  and  weaving 
apparatus.  The  carding  mill  is  a  branch  of  the  wool 
manufacture  which  is  passing  away,  notwithstanding  the 
fact  that  the  census  of  1900  revealed  a  larger  number  of 
establishments  than  in  1890,  with  an  increased  capital 
and  value  of  products.     This  result  was  due  to  a  closer 


canvass,  and  possibly  to  the  classification  of  some  small 
establishments  as  carding  mills,  which  were  not  .so 
reported  in  1S90.  Great  difficulty  was  experienced  in 
obtaining  .satisfactory  statements  from  these  mills. 
They  are  usually  conducted  by  the  proprietor,  aided 
In-  members  of  his  family,  no  accounts  being  kept, 
the  mill  Ijeiug  in  operation  only  at  such  times  as  meet 
the  requirements  of  customers.  The'quantitj-  of  wool 
used  l)y  carding  mills  was  very  considerable  in  1900, 
amounting  to  l,540,0i5  pounds,  costing  §375, 4(39.  The 
pi-oducts  consisted  mostly  of  rolls  and  bats,  valued  at 
$534,512. 

For  the  benefit  of  the  historian  of  a  vanishing  Indus- 


WOOL. 


81 


trj',  two  trudo  circiihirs  reech'cd  with  tlio  rcport-s  of  the 
mills — one  from  North  Ciiroliiui.  the  othcM-  from  West 
Virg-inia— are  here  reproduced.'  The  information  thej^ 
furnish  relative  to  the  quantity  of  wool  required  for 
the  prodiietion  of  the  goods  made  in  earding  mills, 
which  arc  such  us  were  made  by  the  mills  everywhere 
in  the  early  days  of  the  country,  is  interesting.  So  also 
is  the  list  of  prices  charged  for  work,  and  the  sugges- 
tions as  to  the  methods  of  receiving  stock,  delivering 
goods,  and  credits. 

'  WOOL. 

The  undersigned  wishes  to  inform  the  iniVilic  tliat  he  still  has 
control  of  the 

Markwooi)  Woolen  JIili,, 
at 

MARTIN,  GRANT  COUNTY,  W.   VA. 

And  will  manufacture  Wool  on  the  halves,  or  will  work  fur  cash 
at  the  following  prices: 

Blankets,  $2.50  to  $.3. .50  per  jiair;  Cassinet,  Cloth  and  Full  Lin- 
sey,  30c.  per  yard;  Flannel  and  Linsey,  25c.  per  yard;  Stocking 
Yarn,  20c.  to  25c.  per  pound;  Single  Yarn,  12Jc.  to  20c.  per  pound; 
Fulling,  10c.  to  12Jc.  per  yard;  Carding  Rolls,  5Jc.  per  pound,  if 
greased;  if  not  greased,  6c.  per  pound;  Batting,  5c.  per  jiound. 

Persons  living  at  a  distance  from  the  mill  may  leave  their  wool 
at  either  of  the  wool  stands  nained  below,  and  1  will  haul  the  wool 
to  the  mill  and  return  the  rolls  or  goods  free  of  charge. 

Thanking  our  many  customers  for  past  patronage,  and  soliciting 
a  continuance  of  the  same,  I  wish  to  state  that  1  am  prepared  to 
do  good  work  and  will  guarantee  satisfaction. 
Eespectfully, 

Jas.  C.  Bill.myre. 

Wool  may  be  left  at 


Martin.  W.  Vn.,  April  10,  1901. 


Alpine  Woolen  Mills,  Mount  Airy,  X.  C,  Manufacture  Cassimers, 
Jeans,  Linseijs,  Flannels,  Blankets,  and  }'«)•?!.<.  Custom  work  a 
specialty. 


Carding.and  spinning 

Carding  and  spinning  and  doubling  and  tw'ist- 

ing 

Coloring  wool — lilack,  gray,  or  Ijrown 

Coloring  yarns  or  wool — red,  blue,  or  green 

Making  rough  jeans 

Making  fulled  and  finished  jeans 

Making  all-wool  cassimer 

Making  all-wool  flannel 

Making  linseys,  cotton  warp 

Making  flannel,  cotton  warp 

Making  bed  blankets 


10  cents  per  pound 


15  cents 
5  cents 
10  cents 
25  cents 
30  cents 
40  cents 
20  cents 
18  cents 
15  cents 
82.50 


per  pound 
per  pound 
per  pound 
per  yard 
per  yard 
per  yard 
per  yard 
per  yard 
per  yard 
per      pair- 


COMPARISON    OF    MILLS    BY    SETS   OF   CARDS. 

A  well-developed  trend  awa}-  from  the  card  wool 
manufacture  has  long  been  recognized,  but  it  remained 
for  the  census  of  1900  to  present,  in  a  succinct  form, 
the  facts  that  should  give  .some  indication  of  the  extent 
of  this  change.  The  report  on  wool  manufactures  for 
the  Eleventh  Census  called  attention  to  the  tendency 
toward  larger  establishments,  and  presented  a  table 
showing  the  number  of  mills  reporting  cards,  arranged 
according  to  the  number  of  cards  operated.  Table  7  is 
a  comparative  summary  of  these  statistics  for  1890  and 
1900. 


Making  bed  blankets,  red,  etc  . . 
Making  striped  buggy  blankets  , 


$3.00  per      pair 

$1.25  per      pair 

Ten  pounds  clean,  washed  wool  will  make  9  i)ounds  custom  single 

yarn. 
One  pound  clean,  washed  wool  will  make  1  yard  all-wool  cassimer. 
One  pound  clean,  washed  wool  will  make  1  i  yards  any  kind  of  jeans. 
One  pound  clean,  washed  wool  will  make  2J  yards  any  kind  of 

linsey. 
One  pound  clean,  washed  wool  will  make  IJ  yards  all-wool  flannel. 
Eight  pounds  clean,  washed  wool  will  make  1  pair  blankets. 

Unwashed  wool  will  lose  one-third  to  one-half  in  washing,  and 
sometimes,  if  burry,  it  will  lose  more  than  this.  We  would  prefer 
people  seniling  altogether  washed  wool,  as  it  would  save  the  freight 
on  so  much  dirt,  burrs,  etc.,  though  this  is  optional  with  them. 
We  will  pay  freight  on  all  wool  shipped  to  us  in  lots  over  fifty 
pounds;  less  than  fifty  pounds  the  customer  must  prepay  freight, 
or  we  will  pay  it  and  charge  it  up  in  bill  of  work.  Don't  ship 
wool  Ijy  express,  as  we  will  not  pay  express  rates,  and  you  can  not 
afford  to  pay  them.  Always  be  very  careful  to  put  j-our  o\Tii  name 
and  post-oftice  on  every  package  of  your  wool,  both  inside  and  out- 
side of  the  X'ackage,  and  you  can  not  be  too  careful  in  writing  your 
orders  to  us  for  what  you  want  made  of  it.  Order  always  by  the 
number  of  the  goods  on  the  sample  sheet.  Don't  order  goods  not 
on  sample  sheet,  as  we  send  samples  of  all  we  make  every  year, 
except  blankets  and  yarns;  then  it  is  quite  enough  to  .say  spin  or 
make  blankets,  and  name  the  kind  or  color.  It  would  be  best  for 
customers  ordering  goods  made  to  give  a  second  choice,  as  we  may 
sometimes  be  out  of  one  kind  (if  goods,  and  then  we  could  send, 
another  much  sooner. 

We  carry  insurance  for  the  benefit  of  our  customers,  but  when 
we  put  their  goods  in  the  station  our  responsibility  ends.  We 
have  not  tlie  pleasure  of  an  acquaintance  with  all  our  customers, 
and  we  ship  small  bills  of  work  collect  on  delivery  to  their  near- 
est express  office,  unless  otherwise  ordered.  We  have  greatly 
improved  our  mill  this  year,  and  we  shall  from  time  to  time  add 
new  machinery  to  keep  up  with  our  work.  Thanking  our  many 
friends  and  customers  for  their  liberal  jjatronage  in  the  past,  we 
hope  to  have  many  new  ones  this  year. 
Yours,  very  truly, 

Alpine  Woolen  Mills, 
M.  J.  Hawkins, 

Proj>rietor. 

JIocNT  Airy,  N.  C,  March  1,  1900. 


Table  7.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES:  ^"UMBER  OF  MiLLS  ACCORDING  TO  SETS  OF  CARDS:   1890  AND  1900. 


GEOGRAPHICAL  Dri'ISIONS. 

t 

Year. 

Nnmber 
report- 
ins  sets 
of  cards. 

Iset. 

2  sets. 

3  sets. 

4  sets. 

5  sets. 

6  sets. 

7  sets. 

8  sets. 

9  sets. 

10  to  15 
sets. 

15  to  20 
sets. 

20  sets 
and 
over. 

Card- 
ing 
mills. 

United  States 

1900 
1890 

976 
1,468 

139 
347 

119 
221 

76 
131 

81 
107 

46 
66 

.51 
SO 

34 
36 

40 
.       58 

22 
22 

69 
106 

31 

44 

37 
57 

231 

193 

New  England  states 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

344 

504 

233 
466 

206 
197 

193 
301 

13 
47 

36 
120 

37 
57 

53 
123 

25 
49 

27 
78 

25 
38 

42 
56 

25 
44 

20 
53 

15 
10 

10 
24 

46 
53 

19 
34 

8 
8 

8 
12 

25 
34 

14 
22 

2 

6 
8 

24 
39 

19 
34 

19 
26 

9 
6 

2 

30 
33 

6 

17 

i' 

4 
7 

15 
16 

4 

6 

1 
2 

46 
72 

17 
25 

1 
5 

5 

4 

25 
26 

5 

17 

1 
1 

20 
37 

15 
18 

2 
1 

i' 

31 
28 

42 

Sonthem  states 

Western  states. 

36 

US 
75 

8 
7 

4 
4 

45 

54 

MOX- 


-TF.XT- 


82 


MANUFACTURES. 


The  comparison  thufi  established  brings  to  light  some 
noteworth}^  facts.  At  the  census  of  1890,  1,468  mills 
reported  sets  of  cards,  of  which  193  were  carding  mills. 
There  were  5GS  mills  with  only  1  or  2  sets  of  cards;  238, 
with  3  and  4  sets;  146,  with  5  and  6  sets;  222,  with  from 
7  to  15  .sets,  106  of  these  reporting  10  to  15  sets  (the  ma- 
jority of  this  number,  however,  operated  only  10  to  12 
sets);  and  101  mills  with  over  15  sets,  of  which  57 
establishments  had  20  sets  of  cards  and  over.  At  the 
census  of  1900  onl}'  976  establishments  reported  curds, 
of  which  231  were  carding  mills;  268  were  1  and  2  set 
mills;  157,  3  and  4  set;  97,  5  and  6  set;  165,  7  to  15  set; 
and  68,  15  sets  and  over,  37  of  these  having  20  sets  and 
over.  From  these  statements  it  appears  that  the  local 
1  and  2  set  mill  is  passing  out  of  existence,  following 
in  the  wake  of  the  custom  carding  mill  of  earlier  days. 
The  3  and  4  set  mills  were  also  largely-  reduced  in 
number,  the  larger  numerical  loss  being  in  the  smaller 
mills.  In  the  5  and  6  set  mills  the  reverse  was  the 
case,  the  greater  loss  both  in  number  and  percentage 
being  in  the  6  set  establishments,  which  is  perhaps 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  5  set  mill  presents 
better  opportunities  for  economy  in  management. 

The  group  of  mills  operating  from  7  to  15  sets  of 
cards  is  the  one  where  the  least  change  would  naturally 
be  expected,  for  it  is  well  understood  by  woolen  manu- 


facturers that  a  10  set  mill,  or  on(!  nearly  approaching 
it,  is  in  certain  lines  of  manufactui'c  the  most  econom- 
ical of  operation,  as  it  requires  no  larger  number  of  high- 
priced  men,  .superintendents,  second  hands,  etc.,  than  a 
mill  with  only  5  or  6  sets.  In  the  mills  running  from  7 
to  9  sets  there  appears  a  reduction  of  only  20.  In  the 
remainder  of  this  group,  the  mills  having  from  10  to  15 
sets,  and  in  the  mills  with  15  sets  and  over,  the  decrease 
has  been  very  great — 37  in  the  former  and  33  in  the 
latter.  The  principal  causes  of  decrease  are  found  in 
the  failure  of  old  and  important  establishments  and  the 
breaking  up  of  their  plants  and  the  transfer  of  man\- 
large  mills  to  the  worsted  branch.  The  substitution  of 
knit  garments  for  flannels  has  also  been  a  factor  of  no 
small  importance. 

These  changes  have  not  been  confined  to  any  one 
section,  but,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  table,  have  occurred 
in  much  the  same  ratio  throughout  the  countr)'. 

THE    CARD    WOOL    MANUFACTURE. 

The  following  statement  .shows  the  number  of  sets  of 
cards  in  the  woolen  mills  in  the  United  States  and  in 
each  state,  arranged  according  to  the  width  of  main 
cylinder  or  swift.  A  similar  statement  .showing  the 
data  for  the  hosier}-  and  knit  goods  manufacture  will 
be  found  under  the  proper  head. 


NUMBER  AND  WJDTH  OF  CARDS  IN  WOOL  MANUFACTURES,  BY  STATES:    1900. 


Number 
of  sets, 
width 

reported. 

NUMBER  OF  CARDS  OF  EACH   WIDTH   REPORTED. 

STATES. 

24 

inches. 

30 
inches. 

30 
inches. 

40 
inches. 

42 
inches. 

44 
inches. 

46 
inches. 

48 
inches. 

54 
inches. 

60 
inches. 

72            85 
Inches,  inches. 

Miscel- 
ianeous. 

6,498 

290 

126 

56 

1,176 

23 

133 

67 

3,372 

22 

1,136 

29 

27 

41 

8 

17 

30 

450 

13 

32 
1 
52 
92 
27 

2 

58 

437 

47 

1,658 

52 
38 
26 
37 
341 

208 

748 

32 

2 

77 

•      35 

1,149 

402 

1 

99 
4 

17 

124 
53 
57 
72 

7 
9 

1 

7 



1 

30 

291 

2 

18 
1 

30 
64 
11 

2 

9 

225 

870 

36 

8 

18 

12 

141 

115 

511 

6 

1 

94 

6 

23 

27 
11 

9 

4 



4 

3 

1 

1 

1 
5 
3 

1 

1 

1 

17 
15 
13 

2 
15 

2 

Kentucky 

25 

IS 

6 

29 

5 
3 
13 

2 

3 
5 

1 
6 

2 
129 

17 
35 
34 
157 

1 

1 

14 

5 

2 

3 
5 

4 

8 
2 

2 

410 

10 
19 

5 

75 

66 

22 

2 

12 

1 

8 

11 

3 
3 
3 

54 

34 

4 

2 

15 

3 

177 

2 
124 

4 

4 

5 

1 

1 
6 
2 

3" 

25 

39 

14 

21 
2 

2 

4 

*           4 

\ 

7 
1 
62 

5 

1 

12 

5' 

17 
4 
26 
53 

2 

31 
29 
441 
301 

I 

2 

1 

3" 

593 

45 

1 

/ 

1 

1 
4 

2S 

5 

6 

3 

18 

83 

4 

1 

0 

1 

1 

15 
10 
12 
12 

16 

78 
IS 
12 
36 

1 

8 

1 

13 

11 

7 

16 
9 
4 

6 

10 
7 

7 
8 

3 

1 

WOOL. 


83 


Table  S  shows  cardinj^  inacliiiiorv,  by  states,  1870  to 
I'.tOO. 

The  percentage  of  cards  in  the  principal  states  re- 
mains l)ut  little  ehan^red  in  the  ten  years.  The  New 
England  states,  except  Vermont  and  Maine,  have  each 
lost  slightly,  as  compared  with  the  total  number  of 
cards,  Init  in  no  case  does  this  loss  exceed  1.3  per  cent. 
New  York,  Pennsylvania,  and  New  Jersey  have  each 
gained  a  tritle.  but  all  the  others  show  a  relative  loss. 
New  England  has  maintained  its  superiority,  having 
3,427  sets,  and  of  these  Massachusetts  had  IjoOl;  the 
relative  importance  of  this  state*  in  number  of  cards 
varies  but  very  little  from  either  1880  or  1890.  The 
same  is  true  of  the  other  leading  states.  New  York, 
Pennsylvania,  and  New  Jersey  together  had  2,217  sets. 
In  the  nine    states  mentioned    were   located  most  of 


the  mills  of  -1  sets  and  oyer,  and  together  they  had  ;'},644 
sets,  leaving  only  Oiil  for  the  rest  of  the  United  States. 
Indiana,  which  in  1890  had  135  sets,  in  1900  had  92.  In 
Ohio  the  number  was  reduced  from  104  to  78  and  in 
Illinois  from  57  to  4<).  Exclusive  of  the  states  named 
the  number  was  practically  unchanged.  The  general 
tables  show  gains  in  some  of  the  remaining  states  and 
losses  in  others,  which  counterbalance  each  other,  and 
were  governed  bj-  local  causes.  As  the  wool-growing 
interest  becomes  relatively  of  less  importance  in  the 
farming  sections  of  the  East  and  Middle  West,  and 
transpoi'tation  facilities  increase,  the  neighborhood  mills 
established  originally  because  of  their  contiguity  to  the 
source  of  supph'  gradually  fall  into  disuse,  overshad- 
owed by  the  establishments  of  greater  capacity,  capital, 
and  credit  in  the  more  eastern  sections. 


Table  8.— CARDING  MACHINERY,  BY  STATES:  1870  TO  1900. 


1900 

1890 

1880 

1870 

STATES. 

Number 
of  cards 

(sets). 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number 

of  cards 

(sets). 

I'er  cent 
of  total. 

Number 

of  cards 

(sets). 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number 

of  cards 

(sets). 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

United  States                                .   .                       

6,605 

100.0 

7,015 

100.0 

6,989 

100.0 

8,705 

100.0 

424 

357 

116 

287 

57 

34 

19 

207 

124 

78 

92 

46 

6,860 
746 

29.2 
24.0 
8.0 
19.8 
3.9 
2.4 
1.3 
3.1 
1.9 
1.2 
1.4 
0.7 

8S.7 
11.3 

265 
1,88 

84 
193 

27 

29 
6 
202 
120 
104 
135 

57 

6,216 
799 

1 

31.5 

22.4 

10.0 

23.0 

3.2 

3.5 

0.6 

2.9 

1.7 

1.5 

1.9 

0.8 

88.  6 
11.4 

80 
70 
21 
21 

iei' 

145 
182 
160 
106 

5.955 
1,034 

36.9 
23.5 
15.5 
13.6 
4.1 
4.1 

2."3' 

2.1 
2.6 
2.3 
1.5 

85.2 
14.8 

172 

29 

1 

7 

34 

12 

335 

98 

177 

334 

346 

250 

6,868 
1,837 

65.9 

11.1 

0.4 

2.7 

13.0 

4.6 

3.9 

1.1 

2.0 

Ohio                                                           

3.8 

4.0 

Illinois                                                                

2.9 

78.9 

All  other  states 

21.1 

THE    WORSTED    MANUFACTURE. 

Reference  has  been  made  to  the  rapid  transition  from 
the  carded  to  the  combed  wool  manufacture.  Previous 
to  1865  the  products  of  the  worsted  industry  were  con- 
fined mainly  to  furniture  stuffs  and  light  goods  for 
women's  wear.     Between   that  date  and  1870  several 


establishments  began  the  manufacture  of  cloths  for 
men's  wear,'  and  from  that  time  dates  the  great  worsted 
industry  in  the  United  States.  Table  9  shows  the  num- 
ber of  combing  machines,  by  states,  1870  to  1900,  with 
the  proportion  each  state  had  of  the  total. 

'  Eleventh  Census  of  the  United  States,  Manufactures,  Vol.  Ill, 
page  57. 


T.iBLE  9.— NUMBER  OF  COMBING  MACHINES,  BY  STATES:  1870  TO  1900. 


1900 

1890 

1880 

1870 

STATES. 

Number  of 
combs. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number  of 
combs. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number  of 
combs. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Number  of 
combs. 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Total                                                                                 

1,451 

100.0 

839 

100.0 

515 

100.0 

261 

100.0 

424 
357 

287 
128 
116 
57 
34 
19 

1,422 
29 

29.2 
24.6 
19.8 
S.S 
8.0 
3.9 
2.4 
1.3 

98.0 
2.0 

265 
188 
193 
29 
84 
27 
29 
5 

820 
19 

31.5 

22.4 
23.0 
3.5 
10.0 
3.2 
3.5 
0.6 

97.7 
2.3 

190 
121 
70 
9 
80 
21 
21 

36.9 

23.5 

13.6 

1.7 

15.5 

4.1 

4.1 

172 
29 
7 
6 

1 

34 
12 

■      65.9 

11.1 

2.7 

New  Jersey 

2.3 

0.4 

Connecticut 

13.0 

4.6 

512 
3 

99.4 
0.0 

261 

100.0 

From  a  total  of  2t)l  combs  reported  in  1870  the  indus- 
tiy  has  grown  till,  in  1900,  1,451  were  employed,  the 
increase  being  97.3  per  cent  between  1870  and  1880, 


62.9  per  cent  between  1880  and  1890.  and  72.9  per  cent 
between  1890  and  1900.  Astonishing  as  the  percentage 
statements  are  thev  do  not  furnish  so  detir  an  idea  of 


84 


MANUFACTURES. 


this  phoiiomonal  crrowth  as  ao  the  actual  figures.  In 
ISTo,  i!t;i  coMihs  wore  iMupiovod:  !)y  l.s.s(>,  i!;")^  had  been 
added,  and  l.y  1890,  3'J4  iiioiv.  niakino;  a  total  of  839. 
At  the  (Ciisus  of  1!>00  this  nuinl>t>r  iuid  iii<-roas(>d  by  *)12 
fouibs  dui'iug  the  deeade,  niakinL;'  tlic  total  1,451.  nearly 
5|  times  the  whole  nuinl)er  eni])loved  in  IsTd.  The 
substitution  of  the  worsted  eassiniore  and  roatinu'  for 
the  woolcMi  i-assiniere,  doeskin,  broadeloth,  and  similar 
fabrics  has  been  the  prime  cause  of  the  decrease  in  the 
card-wool  manufacture.  In  1000  Massachusetts  led  in 
the  worsted  mamifacture  as  at  previous  t'cnsuses,  its 
gain  in  number  of  machines  during  the  decade  being 
159.  Pennsylvania,  which  ranked  third  in  1890,  in- 
creased from  188  to  357,  and  held  the  second  place. 
Rhode  Island,  which  was  second  in  1890  with  193 
machines,  ranked  third  in  1900.  although  its  total  in- 
creased to  287.  New  Jersey  was  next  with  128,  having 
added  99  since  1890.  New  York  added  32  machines 
and  ranked  fifth,  with  116  comlis.  No  other  state 
approaches  these  5  in  magnitude  in  this  industry. 
Connecticut,  New  Hampshire,  and  Maine  together  had 
110  combs,  an  increase  of  49  since  1890,  when  thej' 
reported  61.  In  all  the  other  states  the  additions  were 
only  10. 

The  preceding  statements  make  it  apparent  that  the 
states  possessing  the  greatest  amount  of  wool  carding 
machinery  also  pos.sessed  the  bulk  of  the  combing 
machines.  The  following  talnilar  statement  shows  the 
capacity  of  the  principal  manufacturing  states  in  1900 
and  1890,  on  the  assumption  of  the  equalit}'  of  2^  sets 
of  cai'ds  to  1  comb  in  productive  power: 

PEODUCTIVE    MACHINERY    (CARDS    AXD    COMBS)    RE- 
DUCED TO  THE  CARD  BASIS. 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 


United  States. 


Number 
of  cards 

(sets). 


10,232 


Massachusetts... 

Pennsylvania 

Rhode  Island 

New  York 

Connecticut 

New  Jersey 

Maine 

New  Hampshire. 
All  other  states. . 


2,054 

2,154 

1,195 

1,038 

602 

.527 

484 

420 

1,158 


Per  cent 
of  total. 


1890 


Number 
of  cards 

(sets). 


25.9 
21.1 
11.7 
10.1 
5.9 
5.2 
4.7 
4.1 
11.3 


2,448 

1,724 

1,040 

912 

599 

274 

399 

453 

1,263 


Per  cent 
of  total. 


100.0 


26.9 
18.9 
11.4 
10.0 
6.6 
3.0 
4.4 
4.9 
13.9 


The  table  demonstrates  the  continued  superiorit}'  of 
the  4  states.  Massachusetts,  Pennsylvania,  Rhode  Island, 
and  New  York,  in  the  order  named,  in  the  wool  manu- 
facture. These  4  states  togelner  operated  67.2  jjer 
cent  of  the  total  productive  machinery  in  1890,  and  in 
1900  operated  68.8  per  cent. 

SPINDLES. 

According  to  the  fiber  employed  or  the  yarn  to  be 
produced,  the  spindles  employed  in  wool  manufactures 


iire  divid(>d  into  3  groups — woolen,  worsted,  and  cotton. 
The  totiil  number  of  spindles  reported  was  3,511,099, 
an  increase  of  717,952,  or  25.7  per  cent  over  1890.  Of 
the  whole  numl)er.  2.i"i31,02S  were  woolen  spindles, 
1,325.255  worsted  spindles,  and  154,816  cotton  sjjindles. 
The  following  statement  shows  the  distribution  of  the 
spindles  in  the  mills  in  I'.tOn  and  1890: 

COMPARATIVE  STATE:\IENT  OF  SPINDLES,  1890  AND  1900. 


WOOLES. 

WOHSTED. 

COTTON. 

1900 

1S90 

1900 

1890 

1900 

1890 

Woolen  mills 

Worsted  mills 

Carpet  mills 

Felt  mills 

1,789,683 

150,026 

67,  033 

24,286 

1,742,288 

207,180 

53,046 

13,829 

65,762 

1,125.644 

133,819 

19,750 
479,675 
151,132 

51,136 
9.5,3.56 
8,324 

03.342 

6.S,225 

4,680 

Total 

2,031,028 

2,016,343 

1,325,2.55 

650,557 

154,816 

126,247 

The  stsitement  shows  a  reduction  in  the  number  of 
woolen  spindles  in  worsted  mills,  occasioned  b_v  the 
removal  of  many  of  them  and  the  substitution  of  wor.sted 
spindles.  In  the  woolen,  the  carpet,  and  the  felt  mills, 
the  gain  in  number  was  more  than  sufficient  to  offset 
the  losses  in  the  worsted  mills.  The  net  gain  in  woolen 
spindles  was  14,685.  The  average  number  of  woolen 
spindles  to  the  card  in  1890  was  287.  In  1900  the 
average  number  to  the  card  was  307.  In  worsted' 
spindles  the  number  more  than  doubled.  This  increase 
was  not  confined  to  the  worsted  mills,  for  the  woolen 
mills  also  added  materially  to  their  capacity  for  the 
manufacture  of  worsted  yarns.  In  the  worsted  mills 
the  increase  has  been  645,969  .spindles,  or  134.7  per 
cent,  and  the  total  increa.se  of  worsted  spindles  is 
674,698,  or  103.7  per  cent.  Improvements  in  quality 
of  goods,  requiring  higher  counts  of  3'arn,  have  made 
neces.sary  a  proportionately  larger  number  of  spindles. 

In  1890  the  average  number  of  worsted  spindles  to  a 
comb  was  775;  in  1900  it  was  913.  The  difierence  may 
be,  in  some  measure,  accounted  for  by  the  increased 
efficiency  of  the  comb,  the  result  of  improvements.  In 
cotton  spindles  there  has  also  been  an  increase  over  the 
number  in  1890  of  28,569  spindles,  or  22.6  per  cent. 
The  increase  was  mostly  in  the  worsted  mills,  where  a 
large  quantity  of  cotton  j'arn  was  produced  for  use  in 
cotton-warp  dress  goods. 

DOUBLING   SPINDLES. 

For  the  first  time  in  the  census  reports  the  separation 
of  spindles  into  spinning  and  doubling  spindles  has  been 
attempted.  In  1890  an  estimate  of  the  number  of  doub- 
ling spindles,  based  upon  the  proportion  existing  in 
Great  Britain,  was  made.  It  was  supposed  that  the  rela- 
tive proportion  would  be  about  the  .same  here  as  there. 
No  later  statistics  of  spindles  in  Great  Britain  are  avail- 
able than  those  of  1889,  when  the  woolen  mills  had 
3,107,209  spinning  spindles  and  299,793  doubling  spin- 
dles, and  the  worsted  mills,  2,402,922  .spinning  and 
669,32S  doutiling  spindles.     The  spindle  capacity  of  the 


WOOL. 


85 


Unifrod  .States  ten  years  ago  was  less  than  one-lialf  that 
of  (ircat  lU-ilain. 

Ill  woolen  spindles  the  United  States  has  made  some 
advance  diirino-  the  decade,  hut  is  at  least  as  far  hehind 
Great  Britain  now  as  in  18StO.  It  also  appears  that  a 
niucli  lareer  proportion  of  single  yarns  is  used  here, 
for  while  tiie  s])indles  of  British  nianufactuicrs  were 
then  in  the  ratio  of  i  doubling  to  lU.iJtJ  spinning;  the 
number  in  the  United  States  now  averages  1  to  22.46, 
Mhicli  is  less  than  one-half  of  th(>  proportion  in  the 
British  mills. 

In  worsted  spindles  th(»  proportion  in  Great  Britain 
in  1889  accords  fairh'  well  with  the  present  census 
returns.  The  ratio  then  wrs  1  doubling  to  3.59  spinning 
spindles,  while  the  mills  of  the  United  States  now 
report  351,550  doubling  si)indles,  and  99-1,889  spinning 
spindles,  a  ratio  of  1  to  2.83. 

PRODUCTIVE    CAPACITY. 

It  had  been  hoped  that  it  would  l)e  possible  to  tix 
upon  some  standard  of  capacity  in  the  wool  manufac- 
ture that  would  compare  favorably  with  the  spindle, 
which  is  used  as  the  measure  in  the  cotton  manufacture. 
The  card  has  been  used  as  the  standard  heretofore,  but 
owing  to  variations  in  size  and  in  productive  power 
dependent  on  the  quality  of  stock  and  the  number  or 
size  of  the  yarn,  it  is  very  unsatisfactory.  Cards  range 
from  2-4  inches  to  72  inches  in  width,  with  occasionally 
one  of  even  greater  width,  and  var\'  almost  as  greatly 
in  diameter.  The  spindle,  both  woolen  and  worsted, 
mule  or  ring,  is  unsatisfactory  also,  for  its  product  is 
dependent  on  the  numl)er  of  yarn  and  quality  of  stock 
and  whether  it  is  for  warp  or  weft,  warp  requiring  a 
much  harder  twist  than  weft.  The  letter  below  indi- 
cates the  difficulty  involved,  as  well  as  the  apparent 


inip<>ssil)ility  of  arriving  at  a  suitalile  standai'd  of  meas 
ureiuent  of  productive  capacity.' 

IDLE    CAPITAI-    AND    MACHINERY. 

Until  the  Kleventh  Census  no  attempt  was  made  to 
separate  the  idl(>  from  the  active  machinery  in  tin;  wool 
manufacture.  Previously,  idle  establishments  were  re- 
ported with  thos(>  in  active  operation.  "  In  1890,  267 
factories,  with  tjl2  sets  of  cards  and  35  combs,  were  not 
in  operation  during  the  census  3'ear.  The  numbei'  of 
idle  sets  of  ('ards  was  equal  to  6.9  per  cent  of  the  total 
number  of  cards  reported  both  in  operation  aiifl  idle. 
The  number  of  idle  combs  equaled  3.9  per  cent  of  the 
total  number.  Table  10  shows  the  idle  capital  and 
machinery  for  1900. 


'  There  has  lieen  a  con,«iderable  increase  in  tlie  productive  capac- 
ity of  carding  machines  aside  from  tliat  obtained  liy  tlie  increased 
surface  of  tlie  more  modern  cards.  Among  the  various  factors 
which  contriljHte  to  this,  we  mentioif  the  substitution  of  tempered 
steel  wire  clothing  for  iron,  the  use  of  double  apron  condensers  in 
place  of  roll  ruljs,  the  improvements  iu  automatic  feeds,  and  also 
to  a  certain  degree  in  the  larger  number  of  ends,  thereby  keeping 
the  carding  machines  up  to  the  full  amount  of  stock  which  the 
wire  will  carry  without  overloading,  and  keeping  the  speed  of  the 
ring  doffers  within  reasonable  limits. 

The  improved  methods  of  construction  of  modern  cards  also 
admit  of  uniform  setting,  and  also  very  considerably  reduce  the 
stojjpage  of  the  machines  for  repairs,  etc. 

There  has  been  a  very  considerable  increase  in  the  size  of  carding 
machines  within  the  last  twenty  years.  Where  formerly  many  of 
them  were  built  40  inches  wide,  42  inches  diameter,  now  it  is  a 
very  rare  thing  to  build  a  card  smaller  than  4S  inches  wide  by  48 
inches  diameter,  and  a  large  percentage  of  them  are  built  with  the 
riiain  cylinders  60  inches  in  diameter  and  48  inches  wide,  while 
quite  a  few  are  built  60  inches  wide  by  48  inches  diameter,  and 
some  few  of  them  60  inches  wide  by  60  inches  diameter. 

We  are  unable  to  give  you  the  information  you  desire  in  regard 
to  basis  upon  which  to  estimate  the  jiroduction  of  mills  from  the 
number  of  spindles.  We  should  like  very  much  to  obtain  this  in- 
formation ourselves,  but  it  seems  very  difficult,  if  not  imi^ossible, 
to  get  an  accurate  basis  upon  which  to  estimate. 

D.wis  &  FuRBER  ^Machine  Company. 

North  Andover,  Mass.,  January  2S,  1902. 


Table  lO.— IDLE  CAPITAL  AND  MACHINERY,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Total. 


Connecticut . 

Illinois 

Indiana 

Iowa 

Kentucky  . . . 


Maine 

Massachusetts . . . 

Michigan 

New  Hampshire. 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

Ohio 

Pennsylvania 

Rhode  Island 

Tennessee 

Vermont 

All  other  states'. 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


15 


Total. 


84,632,666 


49,800 

44,8.50 

123,660 

16,500 

1,095,060 

245, 600 

1,474,800 

8,400 

303,  350 

87,539 
166,  775 

33,300 
255, 100 

524,600 

3, 725 

13,370 

186, 247 


Land. 


$668,542 


6,300 

6,350 

19, 150 

900 

119, 140 

20,000 

229.  .532 

1,450 

67,000 

10,000 
19,200 
9,500 
19,480 

116,  .500 

210 

3,500 

19, 730 


Buildings. 


$1,347,698 


23,000 
12, 80O 
44,800 
4,700 
230,100 

69,000 

494,683 

2,100 

83,000 

23,246 
38,800 
8,  .500 
67,  .580 

180,000 

1,115 

4,000 

60, 274 


Machinery, 
tools,  and 
imple- 
ments. 


$1, 791, 207 


20,500 
25,700 
51,000 
9,000 
362,462 

126, 000 

552, 121 

2,000 

100,734 

43,887 
74,300 
13.000 
91,400 

228, 100 

2,300 

4,000 

81,703 


Cash  and 
sundries. 


8825, 219 


5,700 

1,900 

883,358 

30,000 

198,464 

2,850 

52,616 

10,406 
34,475 
2,300 
76,640 


100 

1,870 

24,540 


MACHINERY. 


Sets  of 
cards. 


Comb- 
ing ma- 
chines. 


Spindles 


111,889 


1,400 
6,520 
6,198 
1,804 
20,698 

2,  .500 
28,734 

1,340 
U,080 


Looms. 


4,410 
1,010 
2,044 

18,012 

560 

680 

4,999 


3,129 

81 

241 

83 

20 

838 

161 

909 

8 

209 

Ti 
47 
29 
21 

256 

13 

9 

132 


1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Arkansas,  2;    Kansas,  1;    Maryland,  1;    Missouri,  1;    Nebraska,  1;    South  Carolina,  1;   Texas,  1;   Utah,  1; 
Virginia,  1;  Washington,  1:  West  Virginia,  2;  Wisconsin,  2. 


86 


MANUFACTURES. 


The  i-etiirns  for  1300  show  838  sots  of  curds  and  i^S 
combs  idle,  oqiuil  to  5.1  per  cent  of  tlie  total  number  of 
cards  and  1.9  per  cent  of  the  total  number  of  combs. 
The  idle  sj)indles  equaled  in  ISHO.  .">.!  per  cent,  and  in 
lyOU,  3.2  pel- cent  of  the  total  nunilK'r.  The  idle  looms 
were  4.1  per  cent  of  the  total  looms  in  l^il'O  and  4.2  per 
cent  in  1900.  While  these  ])ert'entaj>cs  indicate  that 
the  machinery  in  the  wool  manufacture  was  more  fully 
employed  in  1900  than  in  1890,  it  nuist  not  be  over- 
looked that  they  relate  only  to  mills  that  were  idle 
during'  the  whole  of  the  census  year.  The  reports  of 
the  active  mills  indicate  a  large  amount  of  lost  time. 

The  capital  of  the  idle  mills  was  reported  as  $4,632,666, 
of  which  $825,219  was  in  cash,  unsettled  accounts,  etc., 
designated  as  live  capital.  The  value  Of  the  plants  was 
$3,807,447.  The  average  fixed  capital  per  establish- 
ment was  $32,542. 

The  idle  mills  were  located  as  follows:  40  in  New 
England,  32  in  the  Middle  states,  16  in  the  South,  and 
29  in  the  Western  and  Pacific  states.  Of  the  40  in 
New  England.  18  were  in  Massachusetts,  with  9()  sets  of 
cards  and  a  total  capital  of  $1,095,060:  6  were  in  Rhode 
Island  and  had  46  sets  of  cards  and  !»  combs,  with  a 
capital  of  $524,600;  4  were  in  Connecticut;  4  were  in 
New  Hampshire:  and  3  in  Vermont.  The  11  mills  last 
named  reported  a  total  capital  of  $366,520,  with  53  sets 
of  cards.  In  the  Middle  states,  Pennsylvania  had  the 
greatest  number  of  idle  plants.  20.  with  only  6  sets  of 
cards,  and  a  capital  of  $255,100.  New  York  was  next 
with  8  establishments,  having  20  sets  of  cards,  aiid 
a  capital  of  $166,775.  New  Jersey  had  3,  with  capital 
amounting  to  $87,539,  but  no  prepai'atory  machinery. 
In  the  Southern  and  Western  groups.  Kentucky  had 
the  largest  amount  of  capital  in  idle  mills.  The  states 
named  possessed  the  greater  part  of  the  idle  machinery, 
having  256  sets  of  cards  and  20  combs,  leaving  only  82 
sets  of  cards  and  8  combs  for  all  the  others. 

POWER. 

The  power,  both  steam  and  water,  employed  in  the 
wool  maimfacture,  increased  71,898  horsepower,  or  35.5 
per  cent,  during  the  decade  ending  in  1900.  In  the 
preceding  decade  the  actual  increase  was  62,306  horse- 
power, about  seven-eighths  as  much,  although  the  per- 
centage was  44.5.  The  carded  wool  manufacture  shows 
an  increase  of  17,421  horsepower,  or  14.3  per  cent. 
The  worsted  manufacture  in  this,  as  in  other  particu- 
lars, shows  the  greatest  increase,  48,266  horsepower, 
or  98.3  per  cent.  In  1890  this  branch  of  the  industry 
increased  32,680  horsepower,  or  198.8  per  cent  over 
1880.  The  horsepower  in  the  carpet  manufactui-e  in- 
creased 18.8  per  cent  in  1900.  and  in  the  felt  mills  57.8 


per  cent,  while  in  the  wool  hat  manufacture  there  was 
a  decrease  of  'MW  horsepower,  or  29.3  per  cent. 

A  more  significant  fact  than  the  increase  of  the  total 
horsepower  employed  is  the  increased  efficiency  of 
machinerv  which  is  indicated  in  the  colunm  of  "■  Horse- 
power per  wage-earner'"  in  Table  11.  In  1890,  131.2 
horsepower,  and  in  19oo.  172.4  horsepower  per  100 
operatives  were  required.  The  miprovements  m  cards, 
combs,  looms,  and  other  machinery  were  such  that  less 
sujjerinfendence  was  needed  and  the  operative  could 
give  his  attention  to  more  machines.  The  table  fol- 
lowing presents  a  statement  of  horsepower,  wage- 
earners,  and  horsepower  per  wage-earner  for  the  cen- 
suses of  1880.  1890,  and  1900  for  the  wool  industry  in 
its  various  liranches. 

Table  11.— POWER  AND  LABOR:  1880  TO  1900. 


INDUSTRIES. 


Total . 


Woolen  goods 


Worsted  goods. 


Carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag.. 


Felt  goods. 


Wool  hats  . 


1900 
1890 
1880 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
18S0 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


Total 
horse- 
power. 


274, 262 
202, 3M 
140,058 


139, 645 
122,224 
106,507 

97,383 
49, 117 
16,437 

26, 932 
22. 677 
10, 491 

7,973 
S,051 
2,631 

2,329 
3,295 
3,992 


Average 
number  of 
wage- 
earners. 


159, 108 
154, 271 
131, 059 


68,893 
76, 915 
85,202 

57,008 
42,978 
18, 639 

28,411 
28. 736 
20, 299 

2,688 
2,142 
1,488 

2,108 
3,500 
5,431 


Horse- 
power per 
wage- 
earner. 


1.72 

1.31 
1.07 


2.03 
1.59 
1.25 

1.71 
1.14 

0.88 

0.95 
0.79 
0.52 

2.97 
2.36 
1.77 

1.11 
0.94 
0.74 


DEPRECIATION    OF    PLANT. 

No  attempt  was  made  at  the  census  of  1900  to  ascertain 
what  allowances  were  made  for  depreciation  of  plant. 
In  the  thoroughly  up-to-date  establishment  eveiy  im- 
provement in  machinery  is  adopted  as  soon  as  its  value 
is  demonstrated.  Existing  machinery,  even  though  com- 
parativel}'  new,  is  at  once  discarded  if  increased  pro- 
duction can  be  secured  without  a  proportionate  increase 
of  cost  by  the  substitution  of  the  latest  improved 
machines.  The  question  with  the  manufacturer  is  not 
so  much  the  cost,  as  whether  the  change  will  bring  an 
increase  of  income  sufficient  to  j)ay  the  interest  on  the 
cost,  with  an  added  margin  for  profit,  and  put  the  estab- 
lishment in  better  condition  to  meet  business  competi- 
tion. It  is  commonly  agreed  that  an  allowance  of  10 
per  cent  of  the  first  cost  of  machinei-y  is  a  fair  annual 
allowance  for  wear  and  tear  and  supersession  by  im- 


woor.. 


87 


provements,  and  that  at  least  this  amount  .should  be  set 
aside  foi'  d('j)re(;iatioM.  A  smaller  allowaiico  is  sufficient 
for  buildings,  but,  nevertheless,  improved  processes  of 
manufacture  frequently  compel  the  tearing  down  of  old 
buildings  and  the  erection  of  new  ones  in  their  place, 
so  that  an  allowance  of  5  per  cent  is  not  too  nuich  for 
depreciation  of  buildings.  It  is  true  that  in  many 
establishments  but  little  has  been  laid  out  for  years  on 
alteration  or  repairs,  only  a  suflicient  amount  to  keep 
the  mill  going  being  expended,  and  in  many  mills  there 
are  cards  and  looms  that  have  been  in  operation  for  .so 
long  that  they  are  almost  relics  of  a  by -gone  age. 
Although  such  machines  may  answer  the  purpose  of 
their  ownei's  fairly  well,  they  fall  far  I)ehind  more  mod- 
ern machines  in  their  productive  capacity  and  economy 
of  operation. 

CAPITAL. 

The  increase  in  capital  employed  during  the  decade 
1890-1900,  as  shown  by  the  reports,  was  $64,293,006, 
or  26.1  per  cent.  The  total  capital  is  divided  into  fixed 
and  live  capital,  the  land,  buildings,  and  machinery, 
etc.,  being  regarded  as  "fixed"  and  the  items  of  cash, 
unsettled  ledger  accounts,  etc..  as  "live"  capital.  The 
following  statement  shows  the  stsitistics  of  capital  for 
1890  and  1900: 


AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  WAGE-EARNERS,   AND  PROPOR- 
TION OF  MEN,  WOMEN,  AND  CHILDREN:  1880  TO  1900. 


CAPITAL. 

Per  cent 

of 
increase. 

1900 

1890 

8310,179,749 

$245,886,743 

26.1 

125,226,019 

106,146,810 

18  0 

Ijand          

17,936,483 
38,074,295 
()9, 215, 841 

184,953,130 

12,682,857 
33,950,456 
59,513,497 

139,739,933 

41.4 

12  1 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  on  hand,  unsettled  ledger  accounts, 

16.3 
32  4 

The  live  capital  reported  shows  an  increase  of  32. -i 
per  cent  and  bears  no  fixed  relation  to  the  value  or 
quantity  of  product.  In  1890  it  was  a  little  more  than 
half,  and  in  1900  it  represented  a  sum  equal  to  over 
62  per  cent  of  the  total  value  of  products.  It  has 
been  generally  under.stood  in  the  wool  manufacture 
that  the  active  capital  should  be  turned  twice  in  the 
year,  but  in  this  case  the  tables  show  a  falling  off  from 
this  standard. 

WAGE-EARNERS   AND   WAGES. 

The  total  number  of  wage-earners  employed  in  the 
wool  manufacture  has  increased  4. 837  over  1890.  Of 
this  increase  -1:,821  were  men  and  819  were  children. 
The  number  of  women  employed  decreased  803.  The 
relative  proportion  of  each  at  the  last  three  censuses  is 
shown  in  the  following  statement: 


Year. 


Total. 


Men,  16  years  and  over  . 


Women,  16  years  and  over. 


Children,  under  16  years. 


1900 
1890 
1880 


1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 


Average 
number. 


159, 108 
154,271 
131,059 


83,371 
78,550 
66,347 

64,141 
64,944 
49,104 

11,  .596 
10,777 
15,608 


Per  cent 
of  total. 


100.0 
100.0 
100.0 


62.4 
60.9 
50.6 

40.3 
42.1 
37.5 

7.3 
7.0 
U.9 


The  proportions  have  changed  very  slightly  in  the 
decade,  the  percentage  of  men  being  50.9  in  1890  and 
52.4  in  1900;  of  women,  42.1  and  40.3;  and  of  children, 
7  and  7.3. 

The  total  amount  paid  in  wages  iu  1900  was  |57,933,- 
817,  divided  as  follows:  To  men,  $36,412,872;  to  wo- 
men. 819.549.423;  to  children.  $1,971,522.  In  1890  the 
total  am<nint  was  $54,339,775,  of  which  $33,702,231  was 
paid  to  men,  $18,883,174  to  women,  and  $1,754,370  to 
children.  No  attempt  is  made  to  analyze  these  wages 
or  to  ascertain  the  average  earnings,  because  of  the 
different  methods  of  reporting  the  average  number  of 
employees  pursued  at  the  two  censuses.  The  full  de- 
tails of  wages  and  earnings  in  the  wool  manufacture 
will  be  shown  in  the  special  report  on  wages  to  be  pub- 
lished 1)3'  the  Census  Office  at  a  later  date. 

CONDITIONS    OF    WAGE-EARNERS. 

Within  the  memory  of  manj'  men  now  living  the 
conditions  under  which  the  work  of  the  operatives  is 
carried  on  have  undergone  a  great  change.  In  the 
early  fifties  it  was  the  custom  to  work  from  sun  to 
sun,  and  oftentimes  for  even  longer  hours.  When 
daylight  failed,  the  onlv  light  available  was  that  fur- 
nished by  little  whale-oil  lamps.  The  buildings  were 
generally  small,  low-studded,  ill  ventilated,  and  poorly 
lighted.  The  operatives  lived  in  factory  boarding 
houses  or  iir  tenements  owned  by  the  mill  proprietors, 
taking  a  part  of  their  pay  in  board  or  rent.  The  evolu- 
tion from  the.se  conditions  has  been  slow  but  continuous. 
Mills  of  recent  construction  contain  every  modern  ap- 
pliance for  facilitating  production,  such  as  cards,  combs, 
mules,  spinning  frames,  looms,  and  other  machinery  of 
the  highest  type,  with  their  various  stop  motions  and 
other  automatic  devices  for  the  prevention  of  imper- 
fections. 

The  roomsare  large,  lofty,  well  ventilated  and  lighted, 
and  hea'ed  by  steam.  Electric  lights  make  good  the 
absence  of  daylight  when  required.  The  hours  of  labor 
have  been  reduced  to  60  per  week,  and  in  several  in- 
stances to  a  smaller  number.  Wages  are  generally  paid 
in  cash,  usually  either  every  week  or  once  in  two  weeks, 
and  factory  inspection  laws  prevent,  to  a  great  extent, 
the  employment  of  children  under  14  years  of  age,  and 
insure  the  best  sanitary  conditions. 


8R 


MANUFACTURES 


MATERIALS  USED  IN  THE  WOOL  MANUFACTURE. 

T!i1)lo  12  is  a  suiiiniarv  of  the  kind.   (|u;uitity.   iuid  cost  of  iiiutciiids  used   in  the  viirious  hninches  of  the 
wool  uiaiiufacture  in  I'.XMi. 

Table  1 2'.— KIND,  QUANTITY,  AND  COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED:  1900. 


Total  cost 


Wool,  foreign  and  domestic,  in  condition  purchased: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Kaw  cotton: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Mohair: 

Potinds 

Cost 

Cotton  yam,  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Linen  yarn,  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 


Total. 


$181,159,127 


Cost  . 


Silk  yarn,  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

yarn  of  jute,  ramie,  or  other  vegetable  fiber,  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Shoddy,  purchased  and  made: 

Pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials,  cost 


Total  pounds,  wool,  cotton,  and  shoddy 

Per  cent  of  total 

Total  pounds  of  wool  used 

Per  cent  of  total 

Total  pounds  of  cotton  and  cotton  yarn  used. 

Per  cent  of  total 

Total  pounds  of  shoddy  used 

Per  cent  of  total 


394,369,  .523 
589,893,350 

43,414,502 
S3, 487, 132 

3.018,146 
81,439,288 

5.5,217,994 
$9, 568, 8(14 

8,415,275 
$1,178,414 

70, 073 
$334,001 

39,965,180 
$2,533,413 

71, 496,  .508 

87,069,630 

865,655,035 

564,498,527 

100.0 

394, 369, 523 

69.8 

98, 632, 496 

17.5 

71, 496,  .508 

12.7 


Woolen 
mills. 


871,011,956 


150, 200, 616 
$34,497,689 

34,%7,959 
82,755,485 

1,117,179 
$159,831 

21,922,136 
83,782,240 

7,845 
$6,998 

34,007 
$145, 514 

1, 118, 767 
$57,384 

66,8.5.5,105 
86,584,855 
822,  ?21, 960 

273,945,816 

100.0 

150,200,616 

54.8 

56,890,095 

20.8 

66,855,105 

24.4 


Worsted 
goods  mills. 


$77,075,222 


179,977,936 
844,306,141 

5,276,751 
$524,515 

1.905,967 
$972, 207 

13, 420, 590 
$3,032,039 

1,314 
81,052 

26,418 
8144, 971 


1,807,827 

$303, 644 

827, 790, 653 

200, 483, 104 

100.0 

179, 977, 936 

89.8 

18,697,341 

9  3 

1,807,827 

0.9 


Carpet  and 
rug  mills, 

other 
than  rag. 


827,228,719 


51,871,334 
$8, 104, 107 

1.943,942 
$129, 449 

25,000 
$7,2,50 

19,828,561 
$2,744,928 

8,388,211 
$1,164,826 

9,634 
$43,455 

38,846,413 
$2,476,029 

869, 233 

$49,680 

$12,608,995 

74,508,070 

100.  C 

51,871,334 

69.6 

21,767,503 

29.2 

869,233 

1.2 


Felt  goods 
mills. 


83,801,028 


Wool  hat 
mills. 


82,012.202 


9,606,263 
82,196,440 


1,225,  aw 

877,683 


2,713,374 
$788,973 


51,707 
89, 657 

17.905 
$5,538 

14 

$61 


1,961,208 

$130.8.35 

$1,380,814 

12,845,028 

100.0 

9,606,263 

74.8 

1,277,557 

9.9 

1,961,208 

1.5.3 


3,135 

$616 

$1,252,613 

2,n6,509 

100.0 

2,713,374 

99.9 


3,135 
■0.1 


The  consumption  of  wool  in  1900  in  the  wool  manu- 
facture was  39i,369,523  pounds,  of  which  257,934,562 
pounds  was  of  domestic  production,  and  136,434,961 
pounds  of  foreign  growth. 

The  quantity  of  new  wool  used  in  the  wool  manu- 
facture has  increased  12.3  per  cent  since  1890;  the 
quantity  of  shoddy  used  has  increased  25.8  per  cent. 
The  increase  in  the  consumption  of  wool  wastes  and 
noils  is  18.2  per  cent,  and  of  all  other  hair  and  animal 
fiber,  including  cameFs  hair  and  mohair,  33.7  percent. 
The  cjuantity  of  raw  cotton  used  has  increased  25.5  per 
cent.  The  total  (quantity  of  raw  tiber  consumed  has  in- 
creased 15.5  per  cent,  while  the  value  of  products  has 
increased  only  9.8  per  cent. 

XET   WOOL   SUPPLY,    FOREIGN    AST)   DOMESTIC. 

The  following  statement  shows  the  net  supplj"  of  wool 
for  the  twenty  years  beginning  with  1881,  with  the  per- 
centage of  supply  to  imports.  These  figures  are  com- 
piled from  the  reports  of  the  Bureau  of  Statistics  of 
the  Treasury  Department. 


WOOL  PRODUCED  AND  IMPORTED,  DOMESTIC  EXPORTS 
AND  ANNUAL  SLPPLY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES,  1881 
TO  1900  INCLUSIVE. 


Years. 

Domestic 
production 
(Depart- 
ment of 
Agricul- 
ture), 
pounds. 

Imports  en- 
tered for 
consump- 
tion year 
ending 
June  30, 
pounds. 

Total  pro- 
duction 
and  imports, 
pounds. 

Domestic 
exports 

year 
ending 
June  .30, 
pounds. 

Net  supply, 
pounds. 

Per 
cent  of 
imports 
to  sup- 
ply. 

1881 

240,000,000 

67,416,967 

307,416.967 

71,455 

307,345,512 

21.9 

18S2 

272, 000, 000 

63,016,769 

.335, 016, 769 

116, 179 

334,900,590 

18.8 

1883 

290,000,000 

53,049,967 

343, 049,  %7 

64,474 

342,985,493 

15.6 

1884 

300.000.000 

87,  703, 931 

387,703,931 

10, 393 

387,693,538 

22.6 

1885 

308,000.000 

68, 146. 652 

376,146,6.52 

88,006 

376.058.646 

18.1 

1886 

302,000,000 

107,910,549 

409,910,549 

147,023 

409,763,5-26 

26.3 

1887 

285,000,000 

114,404.173 

399,404,173 

2.57, 940 

399,146.233 

28.7 

1888 

269,000,000 

97,231,267 

366,231,267 

22, 164 

366, -209,  103 

26.6 

1889 

265, 000, 000 

126,181,273 

391.181,273 

141,576 

391.039,697 

32.3 

1890 

276, 000, 000 

109,902,105 

38.5,902.105 

231,042 

385.671,063 

28.5 

1891 

285, 000, 000 

119,390,280 

404,390.280 

291,9-22 

404,098.358 

29.5 

1892 

294,000.000 

134.6>2,366 

4-28,622.366 

202,  456 

428,419.910 

31.4 

1893 

303,153,000 

175,&36,042 

478,789.042 

91,. 858 

478, 697. 1S4 

36.7 

1894 

298, 057, 384 

45,726,056 

343, 783, 440 

520,  -247 

343.-263,193 

13.3 

1895 

309, 748, 000 

265,726.348 

575.474,348 

4,279.109 

571,195,239 

46.5 

1896 

•  272, 474, 708 

228.647,543 

501,122,251 

6, 945. 981 

494,176.270 

46.3 

1897 

'259,1.53,251 

350,  250, 028 

609.403,279 

5, -271. 535 

604,131,744 

.V8.0 

1898 

1266,720,684 

70,334,897 

337.055,581 

121,139 

336,934.442 

20.9 

1899 

'272,191,330 

77,388,192 

349,579,522 

1.683,419 

347,896.103 

22.2 

1900 

2309,991,812 

128,250,945 

438,242,757 

2,200,309 

436,042,448 

29.4 

1  Estimate  of  tlie  National  Association  of  Wool  Manufacturers 
'  Census  of  1900. 


WOOL. 


89 


The  total  (iiumtity  of  Imported  wool  entered  for  con- 
sumption durinj^  the  ten  years  1881-1S90  wa«  894,- 
968,653  pounds.  The  quantity  of  wool  grown  in  the 
United  States  in  the  same  period  was  2,807,000,000 
pounds,  and  deducting  the  exports  of  domestic  wool,  the 
total  net  suppl}' was  8,700,813,401  pounds.  The  annual 
average  net  supplj'  was  370,081 ,34( t  pounds.  Tiie  quan- 
tity of  foreign  wool  reported  at  the  Eleventh  Census 
as  consumed  was  114,116,612  pounds,  and  the  total  of 
domestic  wool  so  repoited  was  258,680,801  pounds, 
making  the  total  quantity  consumed  372,707,413  pounds, 
which  is  2,716,012  pounds  in  excess  of  the  annual  net 
supply.  The  total  amount  used  in  the  j'ear  1890  coin- 
cided closely  with  the  average  of  the  ten  j-ears,  as  above 
given,  but  the  quantity  of  foreign  wool  used  was  greater 
than  the  average  importation,  and  the  quantity  of  do- 
mestic less  than  the  average  production. 

In  the  ten  years  1891-1900  the  foreign  wool  entered 
for  consumption  amounted  to  1.595,972,697  pounds,  and 
the  domestic  growth  for  the  same  time  was  2,870,490,169. 
The  total  net  supply  was  4,444,854,891  pounds,  one- 
tenth  of  which  was  444,485,489  pounds,  the  annual  aver- 
age net  supply,  which  consisted  of  159,597,270  pounds 
of  foreign  and  284,888,219  pounds  of  domestic  wool. 

The  home  production  of  wool  in  1900  was  71.1  per 
per  cent  of  the  net  supply,  but  as  98,970,344  pounds  of 
the  foreign  imports  were  of  wools  used  mostly  in  the 
carpet  manufacture,  the  domestic  wool  growers  fur- 
nished a  much  larger  proportion  of  the  wool  needed 
for  clothing  the  people  of  the  United  States  than  the 
percentage  indicates. 

The  growth  of  any  year  or  the  imports  entered  for 
consumption  are  not  necessarily  consumed  in  the  .same 
year.  But  in  a  series  of  years  the  supply  and  con- 
sumption will  nearlj^  balance  each  other.  There  are  no 
means  of  ascertaining  the  quantitj^  of  wool  consumed 
in  the  years  between  the  census  years.  It  may  or  may 
not  equal  the  consumption  of  tlie  year  of  the  census 


but  the  close  correspondence  in  both  periods  between 
the  average  net  supply  and  the  consumption  reported 
corroborate  both  the  census  figures  and  the  clip 
cstmiates. 

DOMESTIC    WOOL. 

The  records  show  great  variations  in  the  annual  pro- 
duction of  domestic  wool.  In  1S9(  >  the  (juantity  reported 
by  the  Department  of  Agriculture  was  276,000,000 
pounds.  Thiscjuantity  increased  yearly,  until  in  1895 the 
product  was  3(I9,748,(M)()  pounds.  The  next  three  years 
showed  a  steady  decline,  until  in  1897  the  bottom  was 
reached  with  a  production  reduced  to  259,153,251 
pounds.  This  is  the  smallest  amount  in  an}'  one  3-ear 
since  1881,  when  the  United  States  Department  of  Agri- 
culture reported  the  product  at  240,000,000  pounds. 
The  census  reports  for  1900  show  a  product  foi'  the  cen- 
sus year  of  276,991,812  pounds  of  fleece  wool,  to  which 
must  be  added  33,000,000  pounds,  estimated  as  the 
quantity  of  pulled  wool  produced,  making  a  total  of 
309,991,812  pounds  of  wool.  No  previous  census  has 
taken  account  of  the  Angora  goats  in  the  United  States. 
It  appears  from  the  returns  of  the  census  for  1900,  as 
tabulated  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  L.  G.  Powers, 
Chief  Statistician  for  Agriculture,  that  in  1900  there 
were  454,932  fleece-bearing  goats,  which  furnished 
961,328  2?ounds  of  hair,  valued  at  §267,864,  an  average 
of  nearh'  28  cents  per  pound.  Adding  this  hair  to  the 
wool  product,  the  domestic  product  of  wool  and  hair  for 
the  census  year,  as  ascertained  at  the  census  of  1900, 
was  310,95.3,140  pounds. 

IMPORTS    OF    FOREIGN    WOOL,  1822    TO    1900. 

The  following  table  shows  the  (juantity  and  value  of 
imported  wool  entei'ed  for  consumption  from  1822  to 
1900,  inclusive,  by  periods  of  five  and  ten  years.  It 
shows  also  the  increase  in  quantity  for  each  of  these 
periods  and  the  percentage  of  the  increase: 


90 


MANUFACTURES. 

IMPORTS  OF  FOREIGN  WOOL:  1822  TO  1900.' 


Quantitv- 

(fiscal  yean 

(pounds). 


Value. 


Quantily  (5- 

year  periods) 

(pounds). 


Quantity  (10- 
year  periods) 
(pounds). 


Value. 


INCREASE  IN  QUANTITY  AND  IN 
PER  CENT    (POUNDS). 


5  years. 


1822., 
1823., 
1S24. 

1825. 

1826. 
1827. 
1828. 
1829. 
1830. 


1831.. 
1832.. 
1833.. 
18.S42. 
1835.. 


1,715,690 
1,673,348 
1.291,400 
2.055,767 

2, 622, 909 
3,180,767 
2,437,018 
1,295,767 
663, 641 

5, 619, 353 

2,814,879 

273, 631 


1836., 
1837., 
1838., 
1839., 
1840., 

1841., 
18423 
1843. 
1844., 
1&45. 

1846., 
1847. 
1848. 
1849. 
1850. 


1851.. 
1852.. 
1853.. 
1854.. 
1855.. 

1856.. 
1857.. 
1858.. 
1859.. 
I860.. 

1861.. 
1862.. 
1863.. 
1864.. 
1865.. 

1866.. 
1867.. 
1868.. 
1869.. 
1870. . 

1871.. 
1872.. 
1873. . 
1874.. 
1875.. 

1876.. 
1877.. 
1878.. 
1879.. 
1880.. 

1881.. 
1882.. 
1883.. 
1884.. 
1885.. 

1886., 
1887.. 
1888., 
1889., 
1890.. 

1891., 
1892., 
1893. 
1894., 
1895., 

1896. 
1897. 
1898. 
1899., 
1900. 


7, 196. 306 

12, 296, 249 
10, 259, 687 
6, 78.1, 704 
7, 806, 254 
9,813,212 

14,862,984 
10,849,773 
3,497,447 
14,077,966 
23,825,072 

16,  504, 879 
8,249,207 
11,379,483 
17,822,497 
18,69.5,294 

32,578,193 
17,992,646 
21, 403, 925 
20,033,492 

18.189,946 

16, 729, 377 
18, 460, 227 
25,  .562, 478 
33, 030, 112 
26, 125, 891 

31,638,533 
43,698,138 
74,412,878 
91,026,639 
43,741,094 

70,435,943 
37, 683, 675 
24, 582. 551 
34,695,939 
38, 634, 067 

50, 174, 056 
94,315,933 
84, 212, 582 
56, 793, 737 
51,686,294 

40, 275, 678 
40,114,394 
39,801,161 
40, 102, 642 
99, 372, 440 

67, 416, 967 
63,016,769 
53, 049, 967 
87, 703, 931 
68, 146, 652 

107, 910, 549 
114, 404, 173 
97,231,267 
126,181,273 
109, 902, 105 

119,390,280 
134, 622, 366 
175,636,042 
45,726,056 
265,726,348 

228, 647,  .543 
350,2.50,028 
70,334,897 
77,388,192 
128,250,915 


$387,312 
340, 9.56 
353, 367 
552, 069 

446,768 
379,811 
488,831 
201,  648 
92, 172 

1,287,  .540 

501,-502 

93, 957 


1,072,116 

1,203,937 
806,544 
509,283 
662,306 
819,830 

1,(M7,.507 
716,  -fiS 
22S, 106 
S72, 143 

1,684.006 

1,112,978 


112,978  11 
524.874  i 
862,675  1^ 


I 


1,170,661 
1,690,3S0 

I 
3,836,613  I 
1,876,536  I 
2.62.5.761  : 
2.792.558 
2.033.515 

2,1?2,4: 
2,612,704 
3,  .523. 536 
'5,084,562 
5, 2%,  762 

5, 015, 002 
7,140.111 
12,528,606 
16,128.209 
7.6&1,422 

10, 682, 257 
5,779,511 
3, 9.55, 671 
5,2.51,094 
5. 430, 323 

7,704,674 
19,571,559 
20,466,166 
11,611,867 
10, 228, 622 

7.887,616 
7,012,972 
6,995.367 
5.516,813 
17,913,666 

12,060,827 
10,333,359 

8,491,988 
13,593.299 

9.474,264 

13. 794. 213 
16. 351. 370 
14. 062, 100 
17,432.7.59 
16.165.0)3 

17,070,183 
17,697,068 
18,403,689 
5,191,806 
32.624.131 

32. 144. 454 

53,219,397 

8,714,526 

8,363,239 

15,036,220 


10,200,102 


15. 904, 169 


46.961.106 


67,113,232 


72,651,360 


110,198,202 


119,908,085 


284,517,282 


206,032,175 


337, 182, 602 


259,666,315 


339,334,286 


555,629,36; 


81,633,704 


1,612,260 


2, 955, 116 


4,001,900 


4,  .548, 590 


5,361,468 


13. 165. 013 


18,690.041 


48, 466, 353 


31,093,856 


69, 582, 888 


16.936,307 


$3,245,964 


62,865,275 


6, 957, 015 


139, 7«,  592 


9,9ia058 


230,106,287 


31,855,054 


490,619,457 


79,565,209 


45,326,434  596,848,917 


854, 871, 605 


53.953,737 


7,805,485 


90, 986, 877 


117, 477,  ,836 


894,963,653 


1,595,972,697 


114,909,322 


131,759,222 


208,464,713 


3,463,897 
51.42  per  cent. 


5,7M,067 
55.92  per  cent. 


31,056,937 
195.28  per  cent. 


20. 152, 126 
42.91  percent. 


5,538,128 
8.25  per  cent. 


37.516,842 
61.68  per  cent. 


9,709,883 
8.81  per  cent. 


164. 609, 197 
137.28  percent. 


78. 485, 107 
»27.59  per  cent. 


131, 150. 427 
63.66  per  cent. 


77, 516, 287 
1 22.99 per  cent. 


79, 667, 971 
30.68  per  cent. 


216.295,081 
63.74  per  cent. 


185, 471, 725 
33. 38  per  cent. 


113.770,513 
15. 35  per  cent. 


45, 928, 968 
271.19  per  cent. 


76,899,317 
122.32  percent 


90,341,695 
64.64  per  cent. 


260,443,170 
113.18  per  cent. 


106.299,460 
21.67  per  cent. 


298.114.736 
49  95  per  cent. 


701. 009, 044 
78. 31  per  cent. 


'  The  quantities  and  values  given  are  for  net  imports,  1822  to  1866,  inclusive,  and  imports  entered  for  consumption  from  1867  to  1900,  inclusive. 

2  In  1834  the  exports  of  foreign  wool  exceeded  the  imports. 

>To  and  including  the  year  1842,  the  fiscal  year  ended  September  30;  after  that  date  June  30. 

*  Decrease. 


WOOL. 


91 


Tho  j^reatest  perceiitago  of  increase  occurred  in  the 
five-year  period  endiiijr  in  IS-tO,  iy5.:38  per  cent,  tlie 
next  was  that  ending  in  1865.  That  ending  in  1870 
showed  a  decrease  of  27.5!t  per  cent.  The  greatest 
actual  increase  was  in  tiie  period  ending  in  1S90,  the 
increase  heing  216.2!<5.08l  pounds,  altiiough  the  per- 
centage of  increase  was  onl_v  63.74.  The  next  largest 
periods  were  tho.so  ending  in  1873  and  1895.  In  the 
decades  the  greatest  percentage  of  increase  was  in  that 
ending  in  1840,  271.  lit  per  cent,  and  was  followed  !»y 
those  ending  in  1850,  1870,  1900,  1860,  1890,  1880,  in 
the  order  named.  The  actual  increase  varies  very 
greatly  from  the  al>ove  order.  The  greatest  increase 
in  the'  decades  was  in  the  last,  18!tl-1900,  700,009,044 
pounds,  78.34  per  cent.  Then  come  the  decades  ending 
in  1890,  1870,  1880,  1860,  1850.  in  the  order  named, 
and  last  1840,  with  an  increase  of  271.19  per  cent,  but 
an  actual  increase  of  onlj'  45,928,968  pounds. 

THE    FOREIGN    SOURCES   OF   WOOL    SUPPLIES. 

The  three  following  tables  shoM'  the  countries  of 
origin  of  the  wools  imported  into  the  United  States 
during  the  years  ending  June  30.  1890,  and  June  30, 
1900.  They  are  divided  according  to  the  tariff  division 
of  imported  wool  into  classes,  and  indicate  in  a  striking 
manner  the  changes  which  have  occurred  during  the 
decade  in  the  sources  from  which  wool  imports  are 
drawn.  As  the  bulk  of  imported  wools  are  of  Class  III, 
thej'  are  placed  first.  These  wools  were  used  principally 
in  carpet  manufacture. 

niPORTS  OF  CLASS  III  WOOLS,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRO- 
DUCTION: 1890-1900. 


Total  . 

Australasia . 
Europe 


Austria-Hungary 

Belgium 

Denmark 

England 

Ireland 

Scotland 

France  

Germany 

Greece 

Greenland,  Iceland,  etc 

Italy 

Portugal 

Russia— Baltic  and  White  seas 

Russia— Black  Sea 

Russia— all  other 

Servia 

Spain 

Sweden , 

Switzerland 

Turkey  in  Europe 

All  other  countries 


1890 


Pounds. 
80,152,484 


21,237 
30,858,372 


11,977 


5, 193, 817 


5, 144, 822 

2, 198, 996 

718,572 


South  America  . 


Argentina . 

Brazil 

Chile 

Ecuador . . . 
Uruguay  .. 
Venezuela. 


64,104 
444 

339, 956 

3,397.982 

10,594.887 

1.  ;ilVJ.  293 

28, 381 

32, 837 


3.'>,685 
1, 733. 619 


15, 427, 402 


Aden 

China 

India 

Japan  

Ruswia — Asiatic 

Turkey  in  Asia 

All  other  countries. 


13,531.096 

175,  697 

1,631.9.53 

1.087 

*4,569 


33.378,502 


8, 704, 983 
7,931,474 


204,339 
12, 568, 375 
3,969,331 


1000 


Pounds. 
105, 742, 030 


311,337 
30,206,506 


920,562 

37, 257 

137, 144 

2,234,475 

35, 860 

10, 025, 197 

330. 25! 

1,986,837 

21,722 

502.  736 

57, 892 

1S3, 891 

6, 013, 756 

5, 725. 764 

1,038,198 

383, 473 

54,935 

146 

61,315 

455. 092 


10, 615, 231 


8,951,184 
254, 705 
864,047 


522,087 
23,208 

64,257,659 


7,002 
30, 98J,  902 
9, 3%,  249 
27,100 
6,041,346 
7,8.53.411 
9, 947, 649 


IMPORTS  OF  CLASS  III  WOOLS,  BY  COI'NTRIES  OF  PRO- 
DUCTION: 1890-1900— Continued. 


1890 

1900 

Africa 

Pounds. 

154,826 

Pounds. 
336,048 

British  Africa 

Turkey  in  .\friia 

i54,'826' 

62,925 
95,027 
178,096 

14  877 

West  Indies 

48,134 

British 

32, 793 

3.57 

14,984 

264,  Oil 

60 

Dutch 

14,817 
372 

All  other  countries  not  specified 

The  total  imports  of  these  wools  were  80,152,484 
pounds  in  1890,  and  lu5.742,030  pounds  in  1900,  an  in- 
crease of  25,589,546  pounds.  Argentina,  which  for  a 
long  time  has  been  one  of  the  chief  sources  of  supply, 
sent  4,579,912  pounds  less  in  1900  than  in  1890;  England 
and  Scotland  sent  about  the  same  quantity  in  both  years, 
as  also  didRu.ssia  in  Europe;  but  Asiatic  Russia  increased 
its  shipments  5,837,007  pounds.  Turkej'  in  Europe 
sent  1,278,527  pounds  less  than  before,  Turkey  in  Asia 
4,714,964  pounds  less,  and  India  1,464.775  pounds 
more.  The  quota  of  France  was  reduced  by  1,868,742 
pounds,  and  Germany  increased  its  quota  bj^  1,268,265 
pounds.  The  great  difference,  however,  appears  in  the 
importations  from  China.  In  1890  there  were  received 
from  that  empire  8,704,983  pounds;  in  1900,  30,984,902 
pounds;  the  increase  being  22.279,919  pounds,  a  quantity 
nearly  equal  to  the  total  increase  as  shown  by  the  table. 
The  China  wools  have  been  steadily  growing  in  favor 
with  carpet  manufacturers. 

CLASS   I  WOOLS. 

The  wools  of  Class  I  come  most  directly  into  com- 
petition with  the  wools  of  domestic  production.  For 
man}-  years  American  importations  of  such  wools  have 
been  mostly  of  Australian  growth.  In  recent  years, 
however,  large  quantities  have  come  from  the  Argen- 
tine Republic.  The  Argentine  sheep  farmers,  to  meet 
the  demand  for  mutton  sheep  for  food  purposes,  crossed 
their  Merinos  with  sheep  of  English  blood  and  inci- 
dentally produced  a  cross-bred  wool  comparing  favor- 
ably with  the  admirable  cross-bred  territorial  wools  of 
the  United  States.  In  1890.  168,355  pounds  of  these 
wools  were  brought  into  the  United  States,  but  in 
1900  the  quantit}-  had  increased  to  11,113,095  pounds. 

During  the  decade  the  sheep  of  Australasia  have  suf- 
fered .severely  from  frequent  and  long-continued 
droughts,  resulting  in  a  reduction  of  the  flocks  from 
124,983,100  in  1893  to  93,196,483  in  1901,  with  a  cor- 
responding reduction  in  the  product.  The  imports  of 
these  wools  into  the  United  States  increased  from 
11,928,921  pounds  in  1890  to  22,684,590  pounds  in' 
1900.  The  importations  of  Cla.ss  I  wools  for  1890  were 
15,492,107  i)ounds,  and  in  1900,  37.03*!, 621  pounds. 


92 


MANUFACTURES 


IMPORTS  OF  CLASS   I   WOOLS,  BY  COUNTRIES   OF   PRO- 
DUCTION: 1890-1900. 


Total  . 

Australasia . 
Europe 


England 

Ireland 

Scotland 

France  

Germany 

Iceland 

Italy 

Netherlands 

Russia— Baltic  and  White  seas. 

Spain 

Turkey  in  Europe 

All  other  countries 


South  America  . 

Argentina  . . 

Brazil 

Chile 

Peru 

Uruguay 


China 

Turkey  in  Asia 

All  other  countries  . 


British  Africa 

All  other  countries  . 


All  other  countries  . 


1890 


Pounds. 
15,492,107 


11,928,921 
1,271,510 


884,807 


509 

262, 333 

7,199 


334 
91,460 
24, 868 


1,166,890 


168, 355 

67,981 

783,575 

2,740 

144,239 

18,056 


10,456 
3,800 
3,800 

1,105,730 


1,102,793 
2,937 

1,000 


1000 


Pounds. 
37,036,621 


22,684,590 
420,790 


224,010 
68,251 


63,027 

18, 627 

157 

100 

34,788 

10,-514 

816 

500 


13,182,040 


11,113,095 

3.il,190 

1,367,410 

5,126 

345,219 

61,961 


61,933 
28 


660,680 


626,141 
34,539 


CLASS    II    WOOLS. 

In  the  imports  of  these  wools  there  has  been  l)ut  little 
change,  the  total  quantity  being  9,885,173,  which  was 
only  2,226,367  pounds  more  than  the  importations  in 
1890.  The  United  Kingdom  was  the  great  source  of 
supply,  furnishing  7,805,222  pounds  of  the  total,  which 


is  907,818  pounds  in  excess  of  the  ((uantity  imported 
thence  in  1890. 

IMPORTS  OF  CLASS   II  WOOLS,  BY  COUNTRIES  OF  PRO- 
DUCTION: 1890-1900. 


1890 

1900 

Total 

Pounds. 
7,658,806 

Pounds. 
9,8*^,173 

Australasia 

125. 467 

7,312,278 

8,885,173 

55 

England  

6,897,401 

5,693,724 

1,660,971 

450,527 



11,520 
110 

78  240 

Turkey  in  Europe 

403,238 
19 

180, 783 

748.867 

19 

Peru              .                         

643,866 

205,001 

930, 705 

157,432 

110, 647 

13,387 
743 

India        

39,674 
8)1,993 
34,908 

Turkey  in  Asia 

46, 785 

3,412 

15,538 

British  Africa                         * .                     ... 

3,412 

11,691 
3,847 

All  other  countries 

North  America 

185,6r>5 

Quebec,  Ontario,  Manitoba,  and  Northwest  Terri- 
tory          ...                     

159,861 
25,804 

WOOLS    ENTERED   FOK   CONSUMPTION. 

The  following  table  shows  the  imports  of  wool  en- 
tered for  consumption,  giving  quantities  and  values, 
divided  into  classes  according  to  the  tariff  classification: 


Table  13. 


-WOOLS  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES,  1867  TO  1900,  BY  CLASS,  QUANTITY,  AND 

VALUE. 


1867  . , 
1868 . , 

1869  . 

1870  . 
1871., 

1872  . 
1873 . 
1874  . 
1875. 
1876. 

1877. 
1878. 
1879. 
1880. 
1881  . 

1882. 
1883. 
1884. 
1885. 
1886. 

1887. 
1888. 
1889. 
1890. 
1891. 

1892. 
1893. 
1894. 
1895  . 
1896. 

1897. 
1898. 
1899. 
1900. 


Total  pounds. 


37,683,675 
24, 582, 651 
34,695,940 
38,634,067 
50, 174, 086 

94, 315, 933 
84,212,582 
56,793,737 
51,686,294 
40, 275, 678 

40, 114, 394 
39,801,161 
40,102,642 
99,372,440 
67, 416, 967 

63,016,769 
83, 049, 967 
87, 703, 931 
68,146,6.52 
107,910,549 

114,404,173 
97,231,267 
126,181,273 
109,902,105 
119,390,280 

134,622,366 
175,636,042 
45,726,056 
265, 726, 348 
228,647,543 

380, 250, 028 
70, 333, 668 
77, 388, 192 

128,250,945 


NO.  1.— CLOTHING. 


Pounds. 


1,270,356 
4,681,679 
2,512,202 
6,530,493 
5, 967, 461 

16, 871, 332 
6, 029, 488 
2,398,210 

13, 117, 679 
8, 643, 306 

9, 294, 029 

9, 916, 012 

5, 229, 987 

26, 785, 172 

20, 609, 707 

13,489,923 
11,546,630 
20,703,843 
13,472.432 
23, 321, 759 

23, 195, 734 
16,952,813 
22,973,088 
21, 387, 867 
26, 520, 670 

38, 641, 130 
35, 403, 022 
7,860,841 
106,516,023 
117,833,750 

200, 485, 096 

18, 122, 092 

9,583,053 

19, 369, 622 


Wil5, 609 

918, 588 

805, 715 

1,249,152 

1,201,201 

4, 183, 960 
1,744,200 
818,  .307 
3, 602, 835 
2, 187, 713 

2,202,639 
2,431,043 
1,114,301 
6,412,273 
4,781,464 

3,042,-407 
2,  .567, 443 
4,700,605 
2, 994, 533 
4,844,189 

4,339,498 
3,648,780 
4,764,015 
4,856,640 
6,025,452 

7,731,730 

6, 555, 640 

1,449,2.84 

16, 595, 687 

19, 812, 199 

34,307,110 
3,320,651 
1,865,954 
3, 760, 696 


NO.  2.— COMBING. 


Pounds. 


150, 302 
1,801,272 
4, 533, 367 
2, 752,  .'69 
17,  665, 600 

41,1.53,460 

49,840,231 

27,0.87,437 

7, 769, 1.57 

3, 167, 307 

2, 509, 984 
3, 028, 869 
1,709,601 
13, 266, 856 
4,421,491 

2,318,671 
1,373,114 
4,474,396 
3, 891,  914 
4, 872, 739 

9, 703, 962 
5,568,068 
6,651,719 
7,662,978 
6, 973, 921 

5, 421, 081 
4,035,439 
1,334,631 
14, 722, 090 
12, 992, 876 

37, 949, 945 
3,868,682 
2,160,370 
9,910,979 


Value. 


831, 827 
332, 315 

1,092,297 
765, 147 

3, 167, 835 

8, 9.52, 131 
12,723,801 
6, 193, 150 
2,183,201 
1,153,504 

830,715 

969, 683 

413, 761 

3,801,730 

1,271,332 

648,252 
343,987 

1,058,758 
921,252 

1,106,116 

2,270,068 
1, 322, 862 
1,656,309 
1,89.5,535 
1,640,262 

1,222,884 
1,838,812 
337,679 
2, 892, 612 
3, 121, 030 

7, 182, 664 
776, 583 
872,205 

2,094,373 


NO.  3. — CARPET  ■WOOLS. 


Pounds. 


36,263,017 
18, 09B,  600 
27, 680, 371 
29,351,005 
26,550,995 

36,289,141 
28, 642, 863 
27,308,090 
30,799,458 
28,468,006 

28,310,411 
26,856,280 
33, 163, 054 
89,320,412 
42, 385, 769 

47,208,175 
40, 130, 323 
62, 525, 692 
50,782,306 
79,716,051 

81,504,477 
74,710,686 
96,5.56,466 
80,861,260 
85,898,689 

90, 560, 125 
133,197,681 

36, 530, 5S4 
144,488,336 

98,121,217 

110,814,987 
48,345,894 
66, 644, 769 
98, 970, 344 


Value. 


S5, 332, 074 
2,  704, 768 
3,6.53,082 
3,416,024 
3, 335, 638 

6, 435, 468 
5,998,465 
4,603,410 
4,472,826 
4,646,398 

3,979,617 
3,594,610 
3, 9SS, 752 
7, 6U9. 663 
6,038,041 

6, 612. 699 
5,580,558 
7,833,936 
5,558,479 
8, 343.  "08 

9,741,814 
9,090,4.59 
11,112,435 
9,412,866 
9,404,468 

.8,742,454 
10,312,237 

3,404,,S73 
13,135,902 

9,511,223 

11,729,023 
4, 60S,  4,55 
6,226,080 
9,181,151 


WOOL. 


93 


Tho  Class  I  and  II  wools  aic  those  used  by  the  goneral 
wool  inaimfac-ture.  The  Class  1 1 L  wools  are  coarse  wools, 
used  jjrincipall y  iti  the  niaiuifacture  of  carpets.  The  ini- 
portatit)ns  for  ooiisuuiption  of  the  latter  wools  amounted 
to  056,371,205  pounds  for  the  decade  ending  1890  and 
912,50!*, 525  ]K>unds  for  the  sncceediny  decade,  which 
gives  an  average  annual  supply  of  the  Class  III  wools 
for  tho  first  of  these  decades  of  65,037,120  pounds,  and 
for  the  second  decade  91.250,052  pounds,  which  was  in 
each  instance  a  smaller  quantity  tlian  the  imports  for 
the  corresponding  census  year. 

For  the  purpose  of  comparison  the  Class  I  and  II 
wools  may  he  considered  together,  for  these  are  the 
wools  which  enter  into  competition  with  wools  of  domestic 
production.  The  total  of  these  wools  imported  for  the 
decade  ending  1890  is  238,592,448  pounds,  the  annual 
average  23,859,245  pounds.  For  the  decade  ending 
with  1900,  these  importations  amounted  to  679.402.018 
pounds,  the  animal  average  being  07.94i),201  pounds. 

The  very  large  importations  of  wool  of  all  classes  in 
the  years  1895, 1896,  and  1897  were  preceded  in  1894  and 
followed  in  1898  and  1899  l\v  the  smallest  importations  for 
manj'j'ears.  From  the  close  approximation  in  1900  of 
the  imports  (128,250,945  pounds)  to  the  quantity  reported 
as  used,  it  may  be  assumed  that  the  oversupply  of  wool 
imported  in  the  vears  1895-1897  had  been  disposed  of 
in  tho  manufacture.  It  may  be  explained  that  the  large 
imports  of  the  years  mentioned  above  (1895-1897)  were 
not  technically  "  entered  for  consumption,"  but,  coming 
in  during  the  free-wool  period,  they  were  not  "entered 
in  bond,"  l)ut  taken  directly  out  of  the  Government's 
custody  and  held  in  public  and  private  storehouses  until 
the  market  called  for  them. 

It  appears  also  that  the  importations  of  Class  I  and  II 
wools  in  1898.  1899,  and  1900  were  below  the  average 
quantity  and  that  the  increased  importations  during  the 
last  thi-ee  years  of  the  decade  were  principally  of  Class 
III  wools. 

WOOL   CONSUMPTION. 

The  consumption  of  foreign  wool  in  1900,  in  condition 
purchased,  amounted  to  139,881,799  pounds,  of  which 
51.701.523  pounds  used  were  tlie  coarse  wools  of  Class 
III  consumed  in  the  carpet  manufacture.  In  addition 
to  the  raw  wool  consumed,  these  mills  used  9,218,267 
pounds  of  worsted  yarn  made  in  other  mills,  which 
was  manufactured  from  imported  wool,  and  required, 
on  the  basis  of  2  pounds  of  wool  to  tlie  pound  of  j^arn, 
18,430,534  pounds.  This,  added  to  the  wool  consumed 
in  the  mills,  makes  a  total  of  70,198,057  pounds  of  Class 
III  wool  accounted  for  in  this  manufacture.  How  much 
more  importml  Class  III  wool  was  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  the  woolen  yarn  purchased  for  use  in  the  carpet 
manufacture,  amounting  to  32,996,316  pounds,  must  be 
a  matter  of  conjecture^,  but  as  the  estimati'd  total  used 
falls  short  of  the  average  quantity  entered  for  eonsunip- 


tion  for  the  di>cade  by  about  21,000,000  pounds,  it  is 
probal)le  that  not  less  than  10,000,000  ])ounds  of  foreign 
wool  entered  into  the  composition  of  these  yarns.  If, 
then,  the  sum  of  these  items,  or  80,198,057  pounds  rep- 
resents the  consumption  of  foreign  wools  in  the  carpet 
industry,  there  remains  of  the  average  importations 
11,068,868  pounds  for  use  in  the  manufacture  of  the  low- 
grade  blankets  and  other  coarse  goods  to  which  these 
wools  are  adapted.  Assuming  that  tho  consumption  of 
Class  III  wools  equals  the  average  importations,  the  re- 
mainder of  the  foreign  wool  used,  57,683,742  pounds, 
would  bo  of  Class  I  and  II,  of  which  the  annual  aver- 
age importation  for  the  decade  was,  as  already  stated, 
67.940.201  pounds.  The  total  imports  of  Class  I  and  II 
wools  entered  for  consumption  for  the  last  three  years 
of  the  decade  amounted  to  only  63,011,798  pounds,  or 
about  5.000,000  pounds  less  than  the  average  annual 
importations.  This  was  much  less  than  a  normal  sup- 
ply, and  the  deficiency  was  made  good  from  the  exces- 
sive importations  of  preceding  years. 

In  addition  to  the  sheep's  wool  used,  a  considerable 
quantity  of  mohaif,  which  is  the  hair  of  the  Angora 
goat,  camel's  hair,  and  alpaca  hair  are  consumed  in  the 
wool  manufacture.  The  mohair  and  alpaca,  for  the  most 
part  imported,  are  included  with  the  Class  II  wools, 
being  suitable  only  for  coml)ing  purposes.  The  camel's 
hair  was  former!}'  all  considered  a  Class  III  wool,  but 
under  the  present  tariff  it  is  divided  between  Classes 
II  and  III,  that  coming  from  China  being  of  Class  II 
and  that  from  Russia  of  Class  III.  The  importations 
of  mohair  and  alpaca  and  similar  hairs  entered  for  con- 
sumption during  the  decade  amounted  to  12,577,814 
pounds,  the  annual  average  being  1,257,781  pounds. 
The  importations  in  1900  were  1,829,892  pounds.  Of 
camel's  hair  the  imports  for  the  ten  years  were 
23,284,492  pounds,  an  annual  average  of  2,328,449 
pounds.  The  importations  of  1900  amounted  to 
1,446,338  pounds,  of  which  120,702  pounds  were  of 
Class  II,  the  remainder  being  of  Class  HI.  The  con- 
sumption of  camel's  hair  and  noils,  which  amounted 
to  7,084,804  pounds  in  1890,  has  so  decreased  that  the 
census  of  19(»0  accounted  for  the  use  of  only  2,994,427 
pounds.  In  1890  the  consumption  of  mohair  and 
mohair  noils  was  reported  at  2.130,244  jwunds.  In 
1900  the  quantity  of  alpaca,  mohair,  and  mohair  noils 
consumed  was  reported  as  3,794,207  pounds.  The 
consunq)tion  of  buffalo,  cow.  and  all  other  hair,  which 
is  used  principally  in  the  carpet  manufacture  and  in  the 
making  of  horse  blankets  and  similar  goods,  amounted 
to  29,416.283  pounds,  an  increase  a£  12.550.519  pounds 
over  1890,  when  the  quantity  of  such  hair  consumed 
was  16,865,704  pounds. 

The  total  quantity  of  wool  consumed  "in  condition 
purcliased"  in  all  lirauches  of  wool  manufacture,  and 
in  hosiery  and  knit-goods  factories,  was  412,323,430 
pounds,  to  which  must  be  added  the  camel's  hair, 
mohair,  and  alpaca  used,  and  all  other  hair  (30,204,917 


94 


MANUFACTURES. 


pounds),  and  25,000,Ot»()  poiuKls  estimated  us  the 
proper  addition  on  account  of  wool  purehased  in  tiie 
scoured  state,  making  a  total  of  473,528,3^7  pounds 
of  wool  and  hair  as  the  raw  material  of  animal  origin 
used  in  the  manufaeture.  Besides  the  above,  about 
1,000,00U  pounds  of  wool  was  consumed  in  the  shoddy 
mills,  in  institutions,  and  in  small  establishments  hav- 
ing a  product  of  less  than  $500  value.  To  ascertain 
the  approximate  quantitj'  of  animal  liber  consumed 
there  should  be  added  a  quantity  equivalent  to  the 
amount  of  woolen  and  worsted  yarns  imported.  In 
the  fiscal  j'ear  1890,  the  importations  of  these  3'arns 
amounted  to  3,229,778  pounds,  but  was  very  much  less 

COMPARATIVE  CONSUMPTION  OF  WOOL 
[Imports  and  e.icports  lor 


ill  19U0,  amounting  to  only  172,988  pounds,  which  may 
he  reckoned  as  ecjuivalent  to  500,000  pounds  of  grea.sj' 
wool,  and  makes  the  approxin)ate  consumption  of  wool 
in  the  grea.se  475,000,000  pounds.  A  similar  calcula- 
tion showed  the  consumption  of  1890  to  have  l)een 
434.<»0(),000  pounds.  The  increase  in  consumption  of 
animal  fiber  over  1890  is  therefore  41,000,000  pounds, 
or  9.4  per  cent. 

The  following  statement,  prepared  from  the  census 
reports  and  the  United  States  Treasury  statements  of 
imports,  shows  the  per  capita  consumption  of  wool  in 
the  United  States  for  each  census  year  from  1840  to 
1900,  inclusive: 

IN  THE  UNITED  STATES:  1840  TO  1900. 
year  ending  June  30.] 


YEAR. 

Imports  of  wool 
entered  for 
consumption. 

Home  produc- 
tion of  wool. 

Domestic  ex- 
ports. 

Net  supply. 

Imports  of  wool 
manufactures, 

allowing  3 
pounds  of  wool 

to  the  SI  in 
value. 

Total  consump- 
tion. 

Per  capita 
consump- 
tion of 
wool. 

- 

Pounds.  ^ 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

Pounds. 

1840 

=  9,813,212 
18,695,294 
26,125,891 
38,634,067 
99,372,440 
109,902,105 
128,250,945 

35,802,114 
62, 516, 969 
60,264.913 
162,000,000 
232,500,000 
276,000,000 
'310,953,140 

45,615,326 
71,176,365 
85,334,876 
200, 481 ,  176 
331,6,S0,889 
386,671,063 
437,003,776 

31.096,276 

58,178,613 
128,497,923 
10-5,289,422 

95,503,641 
162, 496, 269 

46,861,460 

76,710,602 
129,354,978 
213,832,799 
305,770,597 
427,184,530 
548,167,332 
483,865,236 

4.49 

1850                 .                                              

35,898 

1,0.55,928 

152,  892 

191,5.51 

231,042 

2,200,309 

5.58 

1860 

6.8U 

1870                                                             

7.93 

1880 

8.52 

1890                                                                   

8.75 

1900 

5.97 

1  Quantities  for  1,840, 18.50,  and  1860  are  imports,  less  reexports. 

2  Year  ending  September  30. 

3  Census  report  includes  wool  and  mohair,  and  pulled  wool  estimated  at  33,000,000  pounds. 


This  statement  is  misleading,  because  the  estimate  of 
the  quantity  of  wool  in  imported  goods  for  the  year 
ending  June  30,  1900,  is  based  upon  an  importation 
much  less  than  the  average  amount.  A  fairer  estimate 
would  be  one  based  on  the  average  of  such  imports  for 
a  series  of  3'ears.  The  imports  of  manufactures  of 
wool  averaged  annually  §31,623,265  for  the  ten  vears 
1891-1900,  and  for  the  last  five  years  of  the  decade  the 
annual  average  was  $28,837,019,  which  though  smaller 
than  the  average  for  the  decade  is  more  than  double 
the  value  of  imports  for  the  year  under  consideration. 
Making  use  of  the  latter  statement  as  the  more  conserv- 
ative, the  wool  required  for  the  imported  goods  would 
be  86,511,057  pounds,  or  39,649,597  pounds  more  than 
is  given  in  the  table.  If,  therefore,  to  the  net  supply' 
as  reported  in  the  table  this  quantity  is  added,  the  total 
consumption  would  amount  to  523,514,833  pounds.  On 
the  basis  of  the  population  as  ascertained  at  the  census 
of  1900  the  per  capita  consumption  of  wool  would  equal 
6.93  pounds,  or  about  1  pound  more  than  the  table 
shows.  This  is  a  reduction  of  1.82  pounds  in  the  per 
capita  consumption  as  shown  by  the  table  for  1890,  and 
can  be  accounted  for  by  the  increasing  use  of  cotton  in 
piece  goods,  and  especially  in  hosiery  and  knitted  gar- 
ments for  underwear.  The  consumption  of  cotton  and 
cotton  yarns  in  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  factories, 
which  was  64,681,466  pounds  in  1890,  increased  to 
181,271,369  pounds  in  1900,  an  increase  of  116,569,903 


pounds,  thus  supplanting  an  enormous  quantitj"  of  wool 
flannels  and  undergarments. 

COTTON  AND  COTTON  YARNS. 

The  quantitj'  of  cotton  used  in  the  wool  manufacture, 
exclusive  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  was  27,869,706 
pounds  in  1880,  42,996,248  pounds  in  1890,  and  43,414,- 
602  pounds  in  1900.  A  part  of  this  cotton  was  used  on  the 
cards  with  wool,  for  the  production  of  merino  or  mixed 
j-arns,  and  part  was  spun  into  yarns  for  warp,  for  cot- 
ton-warp dress  goods,  linings,  flannels,  satinets,  etc.  At 
the  census  of  1900  the  inquiry  was  made  as  to  the  number 
of  pounds  of  cotton  yarn  made  in  the  mills  for  use 
therein,  and  while  the  reports  were  not  entireh'  satisfac- 
tory, the  tabulations  show  7,733,291  pounds  of  cotton 
3'arn  thus  made.  Besides  the  raw  cotton  u.sed,  the  various 
branches  of  the  wool  manufacture  consumed  55,217.994 
pounds  of  cotton  yarn,  which  required  for  its  production 
about  65,000,000  pounds  of  raw  cotton,  so  that  the  ap- 
proximate consumption  of  this  fiber  in  the  manufacture 
was  108,000,000  pounds.  In  1690  the  same  class  of  mills 
consumed  42,996,248  pounds  of  raw  cotton  and  51,376,- 
019  pounds  of  cotton  yarn,  requiring  for  its  produc-- 
tion  about  60,000,000  pounds  of  raw  cotton,  so  that 
the  total  quantity  of  cotton  used  in  the  production  of 
these  mills  at  that  time  was  approximately  lOS.OOO.oOO 
pounds.     The  total  quantity  of  cotton  required  for  the 


WOOL 


95 


wool  iiiamifiicturc  in  1900  appears  to  be  108,000,000 
pouiuls,  against  394,369.523  pounds  of  wool  used.  The 
co.st  of  the  cotton  u.'ied  in  the  wool  manufacture  was 
$3,4X7,132,  which,  added  to  the  cost  of  the  cotton  j^arn 
consumed,  $9,568,864,  makes  $13,055,996  as  the  cost  of 
the  cotton  consumed.  The  value  of  foreign  and  domes- 
tic wool  consumed  was  §89,893,350. 

SHODDY. 

The  following  statement  shows  the  comparative  quan- 
tities of  scoured  wool  and  shoddj-  used  in  the  wool  man- 
ufacture in  all  its  branches  in  189(1  and  1900: 

COMPARATIVE  STATEMENT  OF  WOOL  AND  SHODDY 
CONSUMED  IN  THE  WOOL  MANUFACTURE:  1890  AND 
1900. 

[Exclusive  of  hosiery  and  linit  goods.] 


1900 

(Pounds.) 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

18»0 

(Pounds.) 

Per  cent 
of  total. 

Scoured  wool 

238,632,4.52 
34,496,508 
37,000,000 

76.9 
}        23. 1 

19., 174, 021 
56,826,475 

77  7 

Shoddv  made 

22.3 

Totul 

310,128,960 

255,000,496 

In  addition  to  the  shoddy  purchased,  it  is  estimated 
that  37,000,000  pounds  were  produced  and  used  in  the 
mills.  This  amount  added  to  the  34.496,508  pounds 
purchased  makes  a  total  of  71,496,508  pounds  of  shoddy 
used  in  the  wool  manufacture  in  1900,  an  increase  of 
14,670,033  pounds  over  the  consumption  in  similar 
mills  in  1890,  although,  because  of  the  larger  quantity 
of  wool  used,  the  percentage  of  wool  and  shoddy  is 
about  the  same  in  each  census.  The  increased  produc- 
tion of  worsted  goods  in  which  little  shodd\-  is  used 
makes  the  quantity  of  shodd}^  used  in  the  carded  wool 
manufacture  much  larger  in  proportion  than  it  was  ten 
years  before. 

SCOURED  AVOOL,  ANIMAL  HAIR,  SHODDY.  AND  COTTON 
USED:  1880-1900. 

[Exclusive  of  the  hosiery  and  knit-goods  manufacture.] 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 

PER  CENT  OF  TOTAL. 

1900 

(Pounds.) 

1890 

(Pounds.) 

1880 

(Pounds.) 

IflOO 

isno 

ISSO 

Total 

443,431,261 

375,635,079 

283,086,551 

100.0 

100  0     100  0 

Scoured    wool,  in- 
cUiding   camel's 
hair  anil  mohair. 

Cotton  and  cotton 
yarn 

244,216.894 
98,632,496 

100,581,871 

207,584,746 
94, 372, 267 

73,678,066 

167, 634, 1.57 
58,481,712 

56,970,682 

55.1 
22.2 

22.7 

55.3      59.2 
95  1        20  7 

shoddy   and    ani- 
mal    hair,     not 
specified . 

19  PI    9n  1 

The  percentage  of  scoured  wool  to  other  fibers  used 
in  all  i)ranches  of  the  wool  manufacture  was  59.2,  55.3, 
and  55.1  per  cent,  respectively,  in  1880,  1890,  and  1900. 
Cotton,  which  includes  the  cotton  yarn  consumed,  the 
two  being  combined,  comprised  20.7  per  cent  in  1880, 
25.1  per  cent  in  1890,  and  22.2  per  cent  in  1900  of  the 
consumption.     The  actual  (|uantity  <if  raw  cotton  used 


was  greater  than  the  amounts  shown  by  an  amoimt 
equal  to  the  dift'ercnce  between  the  quantity  of  yarn 
used  and  the  miml)er  of  pounds  of  raw  cotton  reciuired 
for  its  manufacture. 

The  proportion  of  shoddy  and  animal  hair  used  waj3 
20.1  percent  in  1880,  19.6  in  1890.  and  22.7  in  1900. 
The  use  of  shoddy  has  made  possible  a  greater  supply 
of  warm  clothing  than  could  have  been  obtained  with- 
out it,  while  the  mixture  of  cotton  and  cotton  yarn 
with  wool  has  made  possible  the  production  of  .soft, 
light-weight  fabrics,  well  adapted  for  use  where  light- 
ness, moderate  warmth,  and  low  cost  are  desired,  and 
consequently  the  people  are  better  clad  than  before 
these  combinations  were  devised. 

In  the  general  tables  there  appears  a  large  cjuantity 
of  waste  and  noils  of  which  no  account  is  taken  in  the 
table  above.  These  materials  are  products  of  the  card 
and  comb  and  spindle,  thrown  out  in  the  earlier  manu- 
facturing proces.ses  in  some  mills,  and  purchased  by 
others,  being  adapted  to  their  use.  Thej'  are  wool  that 
has  never  been  made  up  into  fabrics,  and  having  been 
once  reported  as  wool  purchased  can  not  again  be 
properly  counted  in  the  material  actually  consumed. 
The  so-called  wastes  are  of  various  kinds,  such  as  card 
waste,  spinning  waste,  yarn  waste,  etc.  The  best  of 
these  materials  is  the  noil,  which  is  compo.sed  of  short 
fibers  of  clean  wool  discarded  in  the  combing  process. 
It  is  very  useful  for  man}'  purposes,  particularly  in  the 
manufacture  of  blankets  and  hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

AVERAGE    COST    OF   SCOURED   WOOL. 

The  following  statement  shows  the  quantity  and  aver- 
age cost  of  scoured  wool  consumed  in  the  wool  manu- 
facture and  in  each  branch  of  the  industry  in  each  of 
the  last  three  census  3'ears. 

AVERAGE  COST  OF  SCOURED  WOOL  CONSUIHED  IN  THE 
WOOL  MANUFACTURE  AND  IN  EACH  BRANCH:  1880 
to  1900. 


MILLS. 

Year. 

Quantity, 
pounds, 
scoured. 

Cost. 

Average 
cost  per 
pound, 
cents. 

Percent 
of  de- 
crease. 

Total 

1900 
1890 
1880 

238.6:52,452 
108,174,021 
165, 953, 139 

389,893,350 
90,286,066 
93,860,421 

37.71 
45.56 
56.56 

17.2 

19.5 

1900 

89,366,903 
100,226,094 
109,724,213 

103,338,616 
54,989.746 
26.33-1.635 

34, 497, 689 
48,859,811 
67, 380, 250 

44,306,141 
28,280,287 
15,235,878 

2, 196, 440 
1,841,382 
1,624,871 

788,973 
1,448,799 
2,644,293 

8,104,107 
9,855,787 
6,975,129 

89,893,350 
90,286,066 
93,860,421 

38.60 

48.75 
61.41 

42.88 
51.43 
67.85 

33.96 
43.70 
59.44 

41.55 
48.00 
73.50 

21.57 
27.59 
29.60 

22.79 
25.71 
32.64 

20  8 

1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

20.6 

Worsted  mills  .        ... 

16  6 

11.1 

1900     1        6,468,097 
1890    1        4,213,230 
1880    '        2,733,796 

1900            1,898,605 
1890            3,018,114 
1880     ,        3, 597, 279 

1900            37  .STiO  ^J^l 

26.5 

13  4 

34.7 

Carpet  mills 

21  8 

1.S90 
1880 

35,726,837 
23, 563, 216 

6.8 

Quantity  of  wool  "in 
condition    pur- 

1900 
1890 
1880 

3M,  369, 523 
351,158,020 
287,597,334 

21.  2 

, 

96 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tho  foiisimi[)ti(>n  has  iiuroasod  4H.S  ])('r  cent  over 
1880  iind  20.4  \)ey  cent,  C(jlui1  to  40,458,431  ])ouik1s, 
over  1890.  The  decrease  in  average  cost  per  pound  has 
been  33^  per  cent  since  1880,  and  17.2  per  cent  .since 
1890.  The  relative  (juantity  used  vai'ied  in  the  ditlcrcnt 
brandies  of  the  industiy,  there  bein«-a  reduced  quantity 
used  in  the  card  wool  mills  and  in  the  wool-hat  fac- 
tories; a  comparatively  small  increase  in  the  carpet 
mills;  an  increase  of  over  2,000,000  j^ounds,  or  more 
than  .50  per  cent,  in  the  felt  mills;  and  an  increase  of 
over  48,(100,000  pounds,  or  88  pei'  (;ent,  in  the  worsted 
manufactoi-ies.  The  decrea.se  in  average  cost  per  pound 
varied  in  the  .several  branches,  the  least  reduction  being 
in  the  wool-hat  mills,  13.4  per  cent,  and  the  worsted 
factories,  10.6  per  cent.  The  greatest  reduction  in 
average  cost  appears  for  the  felt  mills,  22.3  per  cent. 
In  the  woolen  mills  it  was  20.8  and  in  the  carpet  mills 
21.8  per  cent.  Although  the  wool  used  in  the  last  three 
differs  greatly  in  quality,  the  average  reduction  in  cost 
per  pound  shows  only  a  slight  difference.  The  reduc- 
iion  in  the  average  cost  of  the  wool  used  in  all  the  mills 
was  17.2  per  cent. 

The  average  cost  per  pound  seems  low  when  com- 
pared with  the  weekly  trade  reports.  These  reports, 
however,  include  a  few  standard  lines  only,  while  the 
census  reports  combine  the  wool  of  all  kinds  and  quali- 
ties. The  variation  in  the  cost  of  the  wool  used  in  the 
several  branches  is  noticeable.  The  highe,st  average 
of  cost  is  found  in  the  worsted  mills,  as  would  be  ex- 
pected, and  the  lowest  in  the  carpet  mills,  which  use 
the  cheapest  foreign  wools.  The  cost  of  these  scoured 
wools  agrees  very  clo.sely  with  the  duty-paid  value  of 
the  importations  when  reduced  to  the  scoured  basis. 

DYESTUFFS    AND    CHEMICALS. 

Under  this  head  come  expenditures  for  soap  and  pot- 
ash for  scouring  wool,  .soap  used  in  fulling  and  cleansing 
cloths,  oil  used  in  lubricating  wool  for  carding  and 
spinning,  the  various  chemicals  necessary  in  the  manu- 
facture, and  dyestufl's  for  dyeing.  The  comparative 
ccstof  these  items  in  the  wool  manufacture  in  1900  and 
1890  is  as  follows.  The  similar  costs  in  the  hosiery  and 
knit-goods  industrv  will  be  given  elsewhere. 


Dyestufis 
and  chemi- 
cals,vaUie. 

OIL. 

SOAP. 

Gallons. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

1900 

1890 

87,983,681 
5,889,612 

3,501,582 
3,715,114 

51,039,079 
1,239,012 

36, 136, 593 
32, 643,  .591 

$1,379,886 
1,106,359 

This  statement  shows  the  cost  of  these  materials  used 
in  the  wool  manufacture,  but  takes  no  cognizance  of  the 
large  cost  incurred  for  dyeing  and  printing  yarns  and 
cloths  in  outside  establishments.  A  table  on  page  97 
shows  that  the  value  added  to  woolen  goods  ))y  the.se 
processes  in  the  dyeing  and  printing  establishments 
was  $4,240,4.50,  which  represents  the  cost  to  the  woolen 
manufacture  of  finishing  processes  carried  on  away  fioni 
the  mills. 


There  is  no  available  data  indicating  the  extent  to 
which  artificial  dyes  have  supplanted  natural  dyestutfs 
and  coloring  matter  in  the  textile  manufactui  e,  although 
.some  idea  of  the  magnitude  of  the  change  can  be  gath- 
ered by  a  comjiarison  of  the  imports  of  natural  and 
artificial  dyeing  materials  in  1890  and  19UU.  The  state- 
ment following  shows  the  foreign  value  of  these  im- 
ports for  each  of  the  years,  and  where  po.ssible  quanti- 
ties are  also  stated.  The  production  of  .synthetic  indigo, 
which  has  by  recent  inventions  lieen  made  commercially 
successful  is  pt>rhaps  the  greatest  recent  step  in  advance 
in  the  production  of  artificial  colors. 

IMPORTS  OF  NATURAL  AND  ARTIFICIAL  DYES  AND 
DYESTUFFS  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMPTION,  FISCAL 
YEARS  1890  AND  1900. 


Unit. 

IftOO 

1890 

Quantity. 

Value. 

Quantity. 

Value. 

XATUBAL. 
Total    

$3, 643, 879 

85,534,774 

Tons 

Pounds . 

Tons 

Tons.... 

Tons 

Pounds . 
Pounds . 

Pounds. 
Pounds . 
Pounds . 
Pounds . 

48,190 

3,420,276 

1 

4,440 

20, 967 

61,30.5 

38, 857, 515 

2, 747, 043 

18,204 

251,538 

120,736 

628,464 

227,527 

161 

60,886 

205,351 

3,944 

906, 282 

1,446,490 

15,767 

20,094 

5,869 

47,134 

44,502 
31,408 

6,101,251 

66,768 
2,928,600 

1,501,566 

Logwood,  extracts  of ,  etc . 

222,029 

Fustic 

10,922 

2,184 

401,836 

25,617,977 

2,824,053 

24,963 

913,813 

912,866 

157, 187 
64,482 
39  306 

Cudbear  

1,398,218 

1,827,937 
31  391 

Indigo: 

Crude 

Carmined. 

E.xtracts,  etc 

57,2.50 

Madder   . 

52  090 

SafBower  and  extracts, 
and  saffron  and  saffron 

49,736 

Cochineal 

158,911 

218,218 

45,734 
2,. 547, 371 

ARTIFICIAL. 

Total 

Pounds  . 

oil  of  aniline 

610,875 

97,801 

537,812 

771,336 

4,792,103 

276, 917 

Alizarin,  etc Pounds. 

6,009,552 

2,155,020 

358,882 
1,813,771 

TARNS    PURCHASED. 

Although  the  value  of  the  woolen  and  wor.sted  yarns 
consumed  is  an  important  item  in  the  wool  manu- 
facture, other  yarns  are  also  used  to  a  large  amount. 
The  first  of  the  statements  following  shows  the 
quantity  and  value  of  yarns  purchased  in  the  j'eai's 
1880,  1890,  and  1900,  and  the  .second  the  quantity  and 
value  of  each  kind  of  yarn  purchased  in  each  branch  of 
the  woolen  industry  in  1900.  Compari.sons  with  the 
reports  of  the  census  of  1890  .show  that  the  total 
quantity  of  yarn  purchased  has  increased  45, 449. ,515 
pounds,  of  which  13,903,884  pounds  were  wooleji, 
9,710,054  pounds  worsted,  3,841,975  pounds  cotton,  and 
16,lfi9.73()  pounds  jute.  The  quantity  of  linen  ytirn 
used  has  decrea.scd  1,406,846  pounds  and  of  silk  yarns 
96,636,  while  mohair  yarns  have  disappeared  from  the 
list. 

YARNS  PURCHASED,  1880  TO  1900. 


YEAR. 

Pounds.      1         Cost. 

1900 

181,104,221         S-1.5,  .588, 908 

1 890 

135. 6.>1. 706           42. 142, 403 

1880 

55,535,390  |        20,814,384 

WOOL. 

YARNS  PUKCHASED  IN  1900. 


97 


TOTAL. 

WOOLEN  MILLS. 

WORSTED  MILLS. 

CARPET 

MILLS. 

FELT 

HILLS. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Tola! 

181,104,221 

$46,588,908 

35,595,804 

$10,645,437 

35,679,243 

819,598,986 

109,699,152 

$15,293,979 

150,022 

S50,eo« 

38,903,178 

34,377,736 

3, 904,. 515 

.56,217,994 

70,073 

250,270 

8,415,275 

39,%5,180 

7,  705,  797 

23.  Or.K,  988 

709, 894 

9.  .568. 864 
334,001 
489, 537 

1,178,414 

2,  .533, 413 

3,0.59.771 

6.214,076 

3,215.245 

21,922,136 

34,007 

23, 957 

7,845 

1,118,767 

1,272,9.54 

4,791,079 

.516,6;J6 

3,782,240 

145,  .514 

72,632 

6,998 

57,384 

2,847,091 

18,896,863 

419,434 

13,420,590 

26,418 

47,533 

1,314 

1,402,189 

14, 704, 172 

147,891 

3,032,039 

144,971 

166,672 

1,052 

32,996,316 

9,218,267 

237,970 

19, 823.  .561 

9,634 

178,7,S0 

8,388,211 

38,846,413 

5, 030, 654 
3,M4,860 

38,994 
2,744,928 

43,455 

250,233 

1,164,826 

2,476,029 

Wiirstfd         

48,530 

31,866 

51,707 

14 

28,877 

6,373 

9,657 

61 

Cotton 

Silk 

Spun  silk 

17,905 

6,538 

J  ute,  ramie,  or  other  yarns  of  veg- 
etable tiber              

DYEING    AND    FINISHING. 


The  products  of  the  wool  manufacture  are  of  three 
classes,  goods  dyed  iu  the  wool,  in  the  yarn,  and  piece 
dyed  goods,  the  names  of  which  are  sufficiently  descrip- 
tive. Most  manufacturer.s  have  their  own  dyeing  and 
finishing  plants,  but  in  many  cases  the  goods  are  sent 
to  some  outside  dyeiug  establishment  to  be  dj^ed  and 
finished.  The  cost  of  this  work  is  an  important  item 
to  the  manufacturer.  The  following  statement  shows 
the  quantity  of  goods  operated  on  in  dyeing  and  finish- 
ing mills,  and  the  value  added  by  the  process: 


MATERIALS 


Total  . 


Wool 

Woolen  yarns 

Worsted  yarns 

Woolen  piece  goods  . 
Worsted  piece  goods. 
Mixed  goods 


QuHntity 

dyed 
(pounds). 


2,408,511 

20, 7.55, 984 

8.474,562 

'11,243,394 

1  9, 413, 337 


Added  value. 


$4,240,458 


83,071 
557,001 
491,291 
451.864 
476,951 
2,180,278 


'  Square  yards. 


PRODUCTS. 


The  value  of  products  as  given  in  the  tables  is  the 
gross  value  as  ascertained  from  the  various  sched- 
ules. This  value  includes  much  duplication,  for  not 
infrequently  the  finished  product  of  one  establish- 
ment enters  as  a  material  into  anothei',  and  after  going 
through  certain  manipulations  appears  again  as  a  prod- 
uct, to  again  enter  another  establishment  as  mate- 
rial. In  a  wool-combing  establishment,  for  instance, 
the  top  is  produced  and  sold  to  the  worsted  spinning 
mill,  where  it  is  made  into  yarn,  which  is  sold  to  the 
worsted  cloth  or  dress  goods  weaver,  in  whose  hands 
it  becomes  the  finished  product,  ready  for  the  clothing 
manufacturer  or  the  market,  as  the  case  may  be. 
Thus,  the  value  of  the  top  and  the  vahie  of  the  yarn, 
as  well  as  the  value  of  the  finished  cloth,  all  appear  in 
the  total  value  of  products,  while  it  is  clear  that  the 
true  value  is  the  value  of  the  tini.shed  cloth.  If,  as  was 
formerly  the  custom  in  all  and  is  now  the  practice  in 
many  establishments,  all  the.se  proces.ses  M'ere  carried 
on  under  one  management,  these  duplications  of  value 
would  not  arise.  At  the  Eleventh  Census  it  was  found 
impossible  to  eliminate  these  duplications,  but  at  the 
census  of  1900  the  schedules  were  so  prepared  as  to 
permit  of  the  separation  of  the  materials  used  into  raw 
materials  upon  which  no  manufacturing  processes  have 
been  employed  and  materials  purchased  in  parth'  manu- 
factured form. 

GROSS   AND   NET   VALUES. 

The  value  of  the  products  of  the  wool  manufacture 
was  $296,990,484  in  1900,  compared  with  $270,527,511 

MOX TKXT  7 


in  1890,  an  increase  of  9.8  per  cent.  These  values  are 
in  each  case  the  gross  value,  ascertained  by  the  addition 
of  the  sums  representing  the  production  of  the  various 
establishments,  many  of  which  make  only  yarn,  or  other 
partially  manufactured  products,  which  enter  into  other 
factories  for  further  manipulation. 

In  1890  the  true  value  was  ascertained  as  nearly  as 
possible  by  deducting  the  value  of  woolen  and  worsted 
yarns  purcha.sed,  less  the  dut\-  paid  value  of  foreign 
3'arns  purchased.  The  sum  thus  ascertained  was  as- 
sumed to  be  the  true  value  of  the  production  of  all 
woolen  mills.  To  this  sum  was  added  the  true  value  of 
the  product  of  the  shoddy  mills,  similarly  a.scertained, 
to  obtain  the  total  net  value. 

In  the  reports  for  the  Twelfth  Census  the  items  du- 
plicated are  as  follows: 

All  wastes  and  noils,  tops,  woolen,  worsted,  and 
merino  yarns,  hat  bodies,  and  hats  in  the  rough.  These 
being  made  in  woolen  mills,  enter  twice  into  the 
value  of  product,  being  reported  first  by  the  mills 
making  them  and  afterwards  by  the  mills  using  them. 
Their  value  and  also  the  sum  paid  for  contract  work 
should  be  taken  from  the  total  value  ascertained  for 
goods  produced. 

The  result  obtained  by  the  elimination  of  these  items 
will  not  be  strictly  comparable  with  the  amount  obtained 
as  the  net  value  in  1890,  but  will  be  as  nearly  as  possible 
the  net  value  of  the  product  of  the  industry. 

The  cost  of  all  duplicated  items  in  the  wool  manufac- 
ture in  all  its  branches  is  $41,391,681.  This  sum  does 
not  include  $21,982  for  fur  hat  bodies  and  hats  in  the 


9S 


MANUFACTURES. 


rouii;b  reported  under  wool  huts.  From  it  tlie  duty 
paid  value  of  foreign  j'arns,  8228,872,  imported  during 
the  cen.su.s  j-ear,  .should  be  subtracted,  which  leaves 
$4:1,162,809  as  the  cost  of  material  twice  reported  in 
the  value  of  product.  The  difference  between  this  sum 
and  the  gross  value,  or  !?2.55, 827,675,  is  the  net  or  true 
value  of  products  in  the.se  mills  in  1900. 

The  following  is  a  statement  of  woven  goods  pro- 
duced in  1900  and  1890.  arranged  according  to  their 
elassitication  as  all  wool,  mixed,  and  cotton-warp  fabrics: 

WOVEN  GOODS  PRODUCED  IN  WOOLEN  AND  WORSTED 
MILLS,  1890  AND  1900,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE. 


CLASSES. 

Year. 

Square 
yards. 

Per 
cent  of 

in- 
crease. 

Value. 

Per 
cent  of 

in- 
crease. 

Total 

1900 
1890 

426,572,856 
381,004,461 

12.0 

8183,306,664 
169,409,239 

8  2 

All  wool,  whether  woolen  or 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

216,359,702 
130, 115, 152 

57,334,570 
56,322,882 

152,878.584 
194,560,427 

66.3 
1.8 

121.4 

117, 757, 169 
81,742,586 

23,111,696 
24,304,966 

42,437,799 
63,301,687 

44.1 

Union  or  cotton  mixed 

Cotton  warp,  with  weft  partly 
or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted, 
or  hair  (or  cotton  weft  with 
warp  of  wool ) 

■4.9 
133.0 

1  Decrease. 

The  following  table  shows  the  products  of  the  wool 
manufacture,  of  all  classes,  in  1890  and  1900: 

T.iBLE  14.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES:  KIND,  QUANTITY, 
AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS,  1890  AND  1900,  WITH  PER 
CENT  OF  INCREASE. 


Total . 


Woolen,  worsted,  union,  and  cotton  warp 
cloths,  coatings,  cassimeres,  jeans,  etc., 

for  men's  wear,  square  yards 

Value 

Woolen,  worsted,  tiiiion,  and  cotton  warp 
overcoating-,  cloakings,  etc.,  for  men's 

and  women's  wear,  square  yards 

Value .* 

Woolen,  worsted,  union,  aiid  cotton  warp 
dress  goods,  sackings,  tricots,  opera  flan- 
nels, cassimeres,  buntings,  ladies'  cloth, 
alpaca,  etc.,  for  women's  wear,  square 

yards 

Value 

All  wool,  union,  and  cotton  warp  flannels, 

square  yards 

Value 

Satinets,  square  yards 

Value 

Linings,  Italian  cloth,  and  lastings.  square 

yards 

Value 

Jersey  cloth,  square  yards 

Value 

Carriage  cloths,  square  yards 

Value 

Total  piecegoods— 

Square  yards 

Value 


Woven  shawls  of  wool  or  worsted,  square 

yards 

Value 

All  wool,  union,  and  cotton  warp  blank- 
ets, square  yards 

Value 


1900 


5296,990,484 


169, 177, 028 
S97, 852, 209 


29, 647, 495 
521,666,019 


155, 767, 439 
S45, 278, 216 

20, 117, 663 
$4, 613, 129 
13,0.51,729 
S'2,873,181 

10, 157, 039 

S2, 228, 434 

2,784 

$1,010 

1,220,408 

S696, 999 

399,141,585 
$175, 209, 197 


600,104 
$,500,523 

18,155,505 
85, 200, 959 


1890 


iP270,527,511 


122, 064, 5'28 
$88,261,748 


14, 883, 893 
$13, 082, 801 


127, 2.59, 709 
$32,285,906 

61, 195,  .501 

$18,  .582, 519 

18,  630,  656 

$4,296,082 

4,  .585,  OSO 

$1,'2.55,.5'20 

7,476 

$13, 636 

1, 282, 921 

$626,  791 

349, 909,  764 
$158, 405, 033 


4, 75S,  652 
$2, 098, 523 

20,  793, 644 
$7. 153, 900 


Per 

cent 
of  in- 
crease. 


9.8 


38.6 
10.9 


99.2 
6.5.6 


•22. 4 
40.2 

167.1 
175.2 
129.9 
133.1 

121.5 

77.6 

162.8 

192.6 

14.9 

11.2 

14.1 
10.6 


187.4 
176.1 


112.7 
1  27.  a 


1  Decrease. 


Table    14.— WOOL    MANUFACTURES:    KIND,   QUANTITY 
AND  VALT'E  OF  PRODUCTS,  1890  AND  1900,  WITH  PER 
CENT  OF  INCREASE— Continued. 


.\11  wool,  union,  and  cotton  warp  horse 

blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value 

Total- 
Square  yards 

Value 


1900 


Woolen,  worsted,  and  union  upholstery 

goods,  square  yards 

Value 

Braids  and   picture  cards,  etc.,  running 

yards 

Value , 

Total  value 


Ingrain  carpets,  2  and  3  ply  and  ingrain 

art  carpets,  square  yards 

Value 

Tapestry  and  body  Brussels,  tapestry  vel- 
vet, Wilton.  Axminster,  and  Moquette 

carpets,  running  yards 

Value 

Smyrna  carpets,  square  yards 

Value 

All  other  carpets,  square  yards .- 

Value 

Smyrna  rugs,  square  yards 

Value 

All  other  rugs,  square  yards 

Value 

Total  value  of  carpets  and  rugs  . . 

Felt  cloths,  endless  belts,  trimmings,  lin- 
ings, etc.,  square  yards 

Value 

All  other  felts,  value \ 

Total  value  of  felt  goods 


Wool  hats,  dozens . 
Value 


Wool-hat  bodies,  dozens 

Value 

Woolen    and    union    or   merino    yarns, 

potinds 

Value 

Worsted  and  mohair  yarns,  pounds 

Value 

Cotton  yarns,  pounds 

Value 

Wool    rolls,    noils,  waste,  and    all   other 
partly  manufactured  products,  pounds... 

Value 

Total    yarns    and    partly    manufactured 
products: 

Value 

Woolen,  merino,   and   cotton  half   hose, 

dozens 

Value 

Woolen,  merino,  and  cotton  hose,  dozens. . . 

Value 

Gloves  and  mittens,  dozens 

Value 

Total  value  of  hosiery  and  knit 

goods 

All  other  products,''  value 

Contract  work,  value 


7,315,3M 

81,740,988 
1,740,089 
$987, 109 

27,811,002 
88,429,579 


541,909 
$786,461 

(=) 
$2, 922, 850 
$3,709,311 


42, 352, 500 
$15, 405, 0,K1 


32, 423, 883 
821, 036, 996 

858,189 
$1,188,707 

(^) 

2, 793, 472 
S'2,491,911 

6,195,054 
83,460,077 
$13, 582, 772 


6,933,524 
S3, 078, 949 
82, 385, 340 
85,364,289 

823,425 
83,166,761 

56,006 
$120,262 

49, 796,  632 

811,748,895 

46,784,385 

832,09.5,805 

3,531,992 

$527, 046 

23,283,240 
=  $5,231,377 


849, 723, 385 

4,290 

$13, 520 

908 

53. 302 

1,238 

81,641 

821,463 
$6, 170, 673 
$1, 613, 054 


1890 


5,507,074 

81,721,516 

775,963 

8646,904 

31,83.5,333 
811,620,843 


4,131,288 
$2,365,881 

133, 859, 751 
$1,268,252 
$3, 634, 133 


36, 726, 370 
81.5, 9^24, 452 


36,536,565 

827, 125, 980 

127,177 

8332,718 

1,394,1.53 

54.51.486 

*  1, 430, 036 

82,  368, 000 

133,767 

$261,781 

846, 464, 417 


6,662,759 
$2, 930, 199 
81, 284, 3-25 
84,214,524 

1,046,481 
$5,229,176 


41,362,993 

$12, 590, 267 

■29, 359, 182 

$22, 397,  721 

3,19-2,936 

$632,849 

12, 8.50, 039 
S3, 176, 653 


838, 797, 4^0 

2,438 
$7, 721 

9,147 
$21,363 

1,VI31 
$6,9.50 

836,034 

81,971,524 

8154, 337 


Per 
cent 
of  in- 
crease. 


32.8 

1.1 

124.2 

62.6 

112.6 
127.6 


186.9 
166.8 


130.6 
2.1 


15.3 
13.3 


111.3 

12'2.4 
574.8 
•257.3 


5.2 

(n 

l,-2'21.7 
■6.2 


4.1 
5.1 
77.9 
27.3 

121.3 
139.4 


20.4 
16.7 
59.4 
43.3 
10.6 
116.7 

81.2 
64.7 


28.2 

76.0 

7.5.1 
190.1 
184.5 
1 35. 9 
133.2 

140.4 
213.0 

945.2 


1  Decrease. 

-  Not  reported. 

•1  Nothing  reported  under  this  heading. 

<  Number  of  rugs  reported  in  1S90;  square  yards  reported  in  1900. 

!'.\U  otluT  products  include,  in  addition  to  the  usual  miscellany,  some  small 
amounts  of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  that  were  not  reported  in  both  censuses; 
hence  they  could  not  be  compared. 

The  first  group,  woolen  cloths,  etc.,  the  piece-goods 
production,  as  shown  in  Table  30,  shows  an  increase  in 
1900  over  1890  of  49,231,821  square  yards  in  quantity, 
and  ^16,804,164  in  value.  In  the  second  group,  shawls, 
blankets,  and  carriage  robes,  there  is  a  decrease  lioth 
in  quantity  and  value.  The  quantity  is  4,024,331  square 
yards  and  the  value  $3,191,264  less  than  in  1S90.  The 
third  group  likewise  shows  a  reduction  which  evidently 


WOOL. 


99 


arises  from  a  chaiifije  in  cliissilication  wliich  makes  it 
appear  that  only  r)41.'.t<»l)  .s(|iuue  yards  of  upliulstery 
goods  were  made  in  I'.too.  against  4,131,288  square 
yards  in  1S90.  Tliat  no  sucli  falling:-  off  in  tlie  manu- 
facture occurred  is  certain,  and  tlic  jiroducts  have  l)een 
reported  under  the  head  of  all  other  products,  or  with 
other  piece  floods.  In  the  carpet  manufacture  the 
yardage  exceeds  the  yardage  reported  iu  1890,  hut  the 
value  is  reduced  $2,881,045,  which  is  accounted  for  by 
the  lower  cost  of  luaterials,  and  the  larger  production 
of  the  lower  grades  of  carpets.  The  products  of  the 
felt  manufacture  have  increased  both  in  quantity  and 
value.     The  wool-hat  manufacture  shows  a  decrease. 

The  production  of  partially  manufactured  products 
for  sale  shows  a  large  increase,  of  which  the  greater 
part  is  in  yarns.  In  1890  the  production  of  yarns 
equalled  73,915,111  pounds,  valued  at  ^35,620,837.  At 
the  census  of  1900  the  production  was  100,113,009 
pounds,  worth  $44,371,746,  an  increase  of  35.4  per 
cent  in  quantity  and  of  24.6  per  cent  in  value.  The 
value  reported  for  all  other  products  has  increased 
nearly  one-half.  An  item  not  previously  reported, 
appears  here,  namelj^,  ''Contract  work,"  being  the 
amount  received  in  certain  mills  for  work  done  for  other 
establishments.  It  is  properly  added  to  the  gross  prod- 
uct, but  is  offset  by  the  sums  reported  as  paid  for  con- 
tract work  under  the  head  of  miscellaneous  expenses. 


CLASS    I — WOOLEN'    (iOOI)S. 

The  card-wool  branch  of  the  wool  manufactuie  lias 
always  been  preeminent  in  the  variety  of  its  products 
and  their  adaptability  to  th(^  needs  of  the  consumer.  It 
is  also  numerically  the  most  important.  It  is  in  the 
woolen  mills  that  the  great  mass  of  goods  required  for 
(^^()tlling  the  people  has  been  made.  The  products  con- 
sist of  broadcloths,  doeskins,  cassimeres,  satinets,  jeans, 
flannels,  blankets,  woolen  and  cotton  mixed  dress  goods, 
linings,  etc.  At  the  census  of  1900  the  industr}-  seems 
to  be  in  danger  of  j'ielding  its  relative  importance.  The 
introduction  of  the  worsted  cloth  for  nien's  wear  and 
the  wonderful  development  of  the  knit-goods  manu- 
facture have  made  great  inroads  on  the  consumption  of 
carded  wool  goods  which  formerlj'  were  necessities, 
substituting  combed  wool  fabrics  for  men's  wear  and 
knitted  underwear  in  place  of  flannels.  Principally  for 
these  rea.sons  the  returns  .show  a  falling  off  in  every  par- 
ticular, and  it  is  only  in  woolen  goods  and  in  the  wool  hat 
maiuifacture  that  the  wool  industry  shows^  loss.  The 
reduction  in  the  luimber  of  establishments  may  be 
attributed  mainly  to  the  gradual  disappearance  of  small 
country  mills  and  to  some  extent  to  the  transfer  of  mills 
from  the  carded   to   the  combed  wool   manufacture. 

The  following  table  is  a  summary  of  the  statistics  of 
the  woolen-goods  manufacture  from  1840  to  1900,  with 
per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade: 


Table  15.— WOOLEN  GOODS:  COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1840  TO   1900,  WITH   PER   CENT  OF   INCREASE  FOR  K.\CH 

DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital  2 

Salaried   oilicials,  clerks,  etc., 

number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men.  16  yeni-3  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over. . 

Wages 

Children,  under  16-  years. . . 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 

Number  of  spindles 

Number  of  looms 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 


lilOO 


$12-1: 


*24, 
SIC, 

sv. 


$71 

siis; 

1 


1,035 
386,262 

2,246 
934,048 

68, 893 
757, 006 

40,601 
913, 731 

24,535 
218,087 
3,757 
«25, 188 
268,  634 
011,956 
430, 168 
906,581 

34,881 


1800 


1,3U 
8130,989,910 

3  2,436 

3  92,339, 737 

76, 915 

$26, 139, 194 

42, 130 

059,  323 

30, 159 

$8,371,274 

4,626 

$708, 597 

$8,402,623 

$82, 270, 335 

$133, 677, 977 

1,  815, 380 

39, 118 


$17 


1880 


1,990 
$06,095,664 

!:} 

86,604 
$25, 836, 3'J2 

46, 978 
0) 

29,  372 
(M 

10,154 

i:] 

$100,845,011 
$160, 606, 721 
1,756,746 
35,034 


2,891 
$98,824,631 

el 

80, 053 
$26,877,675 
42,728 
(<) 

27,682 
{') 
9,643 

<*) 

$96, 432, 601 
$155, 405, 358 
1,846,496 
34, 183 


1860 


1,260 
$30, 862, 654 

(') 
(<) 

41, 360 

19,610,254 

24,841 

(') 
16, 519 


$36, 586, 287 
$61,894,986 
([) 


1,559 
828,118,660 

(<) 

(*) 

39,252 

(') 

22,678 

(<) 

16,574 

(1) 


$25, 755, 991 
$43,207,545 

(') 

(») 


1,420 
$16,765,124 


1840 


,342 


820,69^,999 


1890 

to 
1900 


'21.1 
'6.0 

17.8 

25.4 

'10.4 

15.3 

13.6 

'0.9 

'18.6 

113.8 

118.8 

111.8 

113.5 

113.7 

111.3 

5.0 

110.8 


PER  CE.NT  OF  INCREASE. 


1880 

to 
1890 


134.1 
36.3 


111.1 

1.2 

110.3 


a.  7 
154.4 


118.4 

116.8 

3.3 

9.8 


1870 

to 
1880 


131.2 
12.8 


8.1 

13.9 

9.9 


6.1 

's.'a 


4.6 
3.3 
14.8 
4.2 


1860 

to 
18J0 


129.4 
220.2 


93.6 

179.7 

72.0 


67.6 


151.1 


1850 

to 
1860 


1840 

to 
1850 


9.8 
78.4 


5.4] 
9.5 


'0.3  I 


42.0 
43.3 


108.8 


1  Decrease. 

"  Does  not  inel  udo  the  value  of  rented  property. 

3  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with" their  salaries:  number  only  reported  iu  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.    (See  Table  31.) 

*  Not  reported  separately. 

'Not  reported. 


The  high-water  mark  of  production  in  the  woolen 
goods  branch  of  the  wool  manufacture  was  reached  in 
1880  before  the  worsted  cloth  had  become  the  popular 
fabric.  Since  that  time  there  has  been  a  continual  de- 
crease. From  18S0  to  1890  the  decrease  was  16.8  per 
cent,  and  amounted  to  $27,028,744  iu  value.     In  the  last 


decade  the  decrease  was  11.3  per  cent,  and  the  actua' 
decrease  $15,147,819.  The.se  totals  do  not,  however, 
indicate  the  relative  production  of  goods,  for  both  dec- 
ades were  periods  of  falling  values,  and,  therefore,  the 
production  measured  by  the  .square  yard  or  pound 
would  not  show  at  either  census  so  large  a  decrease. 


100 


MANUFACTURES. 


The  quantity  of  wool  oonsuuicd  in  woolen  mills  in 
.1900  wa,s  only  nine-tenths  of  the  quantity  consumed  in 
18'JO,  and  was  about  20,000.000  pounds  less  tlian  was 
used  in  1880,  the  wool  used  in  each  case  being  measured 
by  the  scoured  pound.  The  quantity  of  cotton  used, 
while  10,000,000  pounds  less  in  1900  than  in  1880,  is 
2,000,000  pounds  more  than  was  used  in  1890.  The 
quantity  of  shoddy  used  embraces  the  quantity  pur- 
chased— 31,228,940  pounds — and  the  quantity  made  in 
the  woolen  mills — 35,626,165  pounds— and  shows  an 
increased  consumption  of  about  15,000,000  pounds. 

The  quantity  of  shoddj-  used  in  these  mills  was 
66,855,105  pounds.  The  proportions  of  clean  shoddy 
and  clean  wool  used  were  respectively  31.5  and  -1-3.1 
per  cent  of  the  raw'  material  consumed  in  the  card 
wool  manufactures.  A  considerable  portion  of  the 
fibers  other  than  raw  wool  used  in  these  mills  was  con- 
sumed in  the  manufacture  of  horse  blankets  and  car- 
riage robes,  the  production  of  which  increased  from 
6,283,037  square  yards  in  1890  to  9,055,393  in  1900,  or 
nearly  50  per  cent.  The  manufacture  of  carpet  yarns 
also  required  a  large  amount.        ^,.      '^ 

Cloths,  Cassimeres,  etc. — The, liiost  iofiportant  depart- 
ment of  the  carded-wool  manufactiifeyis  the  manu- 
facture of  men's-wear  goods,  know^/ag 'JmNpjidcloths, 
cassimeres,  fancy  cassimeres,  satinets,  IJ«d,  j^Sms.  Of 
the  first  named  but  a  comparatively  smalHiuantity  is 
now  made,  the  worsted  cloth  having  taken  its  place. 
The  all-wool  cassimere  has  also  given  place  to  a  great 
extent  to  the  worsted  cassimere,  which  has  won  popu- 
lar favor  by  its  more  dressy  appearance.  The  greater 
part  of  the  goods  for  men's  wear  made  in  the  woolen 
mills  in  1900  were  of  the  union  and  cotton  warp  classes, 
although  the  proportion,  measured  in  square  yards, 
was  not  so  great  as  in  1890.  This  change  is  to  be 
accounted  for  by  the  popularity  of  light  flannels, 
slightly  fulled,  finished  with  a  smooth  face  and  used  for 
summer  suitings.  The  production  of  all-wool  cloths — 
cassimeres,  flannels,  etc. — for  men's  wear  in  1890  was 
25,637,998  square  yards,  valued  at  $24,076,808,  an 
average  of  93. 9  cents  per  square  yard.  In  1900  the  pro- 
duction of  similai'  goods  amounted  to  34,551,266  square 
yards,  with  a  value  of  $22,860,783,  averaging  66.2  cents. 
The  increase  in  yardage  has  been  nearly  sufficient  to 
overcome  the  decrease  in  the  average  value  per  yard, 
and  this  particular  group  of  goods  shows  a  total  de- 
crease in  value  in  consequence  of  only  $1,216,025. 
The  reduction  in  average  cost  of  the  wool  consumed, 
which  is  11.5  per  cent  in  woolen  mills,  accounts  to  some 
extent  for  the  reduced  value  of  the  production. 

The  popularity  of  light  woolen  suitings  for  men's 
summer  use  without  doubt  accounts  for  the  increased 
quantity  of  goods  manufactured  and  also  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  reduction  in  the  average  value  per  yard. 

Union  or  Mixed  Gooda  for  M<-ns  Wetvr. — This  class 
of  goods  shows  an  increase  both  in  quantity  and  value. 
The  production   in   1890  was  21,042,283  square  yards. 


valued  at  $12,720,597.  'l\w  prcjduction  in  1900  waa 
30,767,915  square  yards,  worth  $13,695,830.  The  aver- 
age value  per  square  j'ard  was  60.5  cents  in  1890  and 
44.5  cents  in  1900. 

Cotton-warp  Goodn. — The  goods  made  on  a  cotton 
warp  with  a  weft  of  wool  or  mixed  wool  and  cotton,  of 
which  the  satinet  is  the  type,  are  the  next  in  impor- 
tance. The}'  are  known  under  various  names,  such  as 
cassimeres,  doeskins,  tweeds,  jeans,  satinets,  etc.,  but 
all  have  the  cotton  warp  for  their  foundation.  They 
are  of  low  cost,  but  of  comparatively  durable  qualitj' 
and  furnish  clothing  at  low  price  and  of  sightly  appear- 
ance. At  the  census  of  1890  the  production  of  these 
goods  was  reported  to  be  65,545,016  square  yards,  val- 
ued at  $23,460,847,  an  average  of  35.8  cents  per  yard. 
The  present  census  shows  quite  a  reduction,  both  in 
quantity  and  value,  the  figures  being  50,212,178  square 
yards,  the  value  $13,897,719,  and  the  average  per  j-ard 
27.7  cents. 

The  manufacture  of  satinets  has  decreased  from 
18,630,656  square  yards,  valued  at  $4,296,082,  in  1890, 
to  13,051,729  square  yards,  valued  at  $2,873,181,  in 
1900.  The  average  value  per  square  yard  has  also  been 
reduced  from  23.1  to  22  cents.  The  manufacture  of 
jeans,  linsej-s,  etc.,  of  which,  at  the  census  of  1890, 
17,126,217  square  yards  were  reported,  has  become 
greatly  reduced.  They  are  not  reported  separately  at 
this  time,  but  combined  with  cotton-warp  cassimeres, 
etc.,  which  accounts  in  some  measure  for  the  increase 
of  8,589,231  yards  in  the  goods  reported  under  that 
head. 

Of  these  two  groups,  union  and  cotton  warp  fabrics, 
the  total  production  in  1890  was  86,587,299  square 
yards,  and  in  1900  it  amounted  to  80,980,093  square 
yards.  The  consumption  of  cotton  yarn  and  of  cotton 
in  the  woolen  mills,  in  which  nearly  all  these  goods 
were  made,  in  the  last  two  census  years  was  as  follows: 


Pounds. 

Cotton 34, 967, 959 

Cotton  yarn 21, 922, 136 


1890 


Found?. 
36,993,712 
23,990,406 


Flannels. — The  production  of  cloths  for  men's  wear 
owes  much  of  its  apparent  increase  to  the  fact  that 
many  light-weight  goods  are  really  flannels,  although, 
from  the  use  for  which  ttey  are  made,  they  are  classed 
as  cloths.  Many  more  of  similar  character,  but  difl'er- 
ent  finish,  and  classified  as  dress  goods,  and  have  thus 
been  taken  from  the  flannel  tabulation.  There  still 
remains,  however,  a  large  quantity  of  flannels  made 
for  underwear,  including  ail  grades  from  the  finest 
silk-mixed  to  the  coarsest  white  flannel  and  the  heavy 
substantial  scarlet  or  blue  twilled  flannel  so  popular  for 
shirtings  for  manj'  years.  All  of  these  flannels  have 
encountered  serious  competition  from  the  knitted  under- 
wear, which,  from  its  low  price  and  satisfactorv  oharac- 


WOOL. 


101 


ter,  has  made  serious  inroads  on  the  consumption,  and 
ther(>foro  the  production,  of  underwear  flannels.  The 
census  of  1890  showed  the  production  of  61,195,501 
square  yaixls,  valued  at  SlS.5S2.r)49.  which  were  classi- 
fied as  Hanncls  proper.  The  returns  for  l!»(iO  account 
for  only  20,117,663  s(iuare  yai-ds,  valued  at  |i4:,613,129. 
There  is  no  douhtthat  a  portion  of  this  decicase  is  owing 
to  clianged  classification  on  sche<lules,  liut  manj'  of  the 
most  important  mills  formerly  engaged  in  the  general 
flannel  manufacture  have  devoted  p  large  part  of  their 
energies  to  the  [production  of  light  cloths  for  dress 
goods  and  suitings. 

BhiiikifH. — .\n  important  d(>j)artment  of  the  wool 
maiuifaclur(>  is  the  production  of  blankets,  including 
horse  blankets  and  carriage  robes.  These  are  of  all 
grades,  from  the  bed  blanket  made  of  the  finest  wool, 
of  firm  texture,  of  heavy  weight,  highly  gigged  and 
soft  as  down,  to  the  coarsest  horse  blanket  made  with 
a  cotton  wai'p  and  of  animal  hair.  The  production  of 
blankets  proper  shows  a  decrease.  In  1S90  the  quan- 
tity reported  was  20,793,644  square  yards,  valued  at 
$7,153,900;  in  1900  it  was  18.155.505  square  yards, 
valued  at  15,200,959.  The  quantity  of  horse  blankets 
manufactured  has  increased  from  5,507,074  square 
yards  in  1890  to  7,315,304  square  yards  in  1900.  The 
value,  however,  has  increased  })ut  very  little.  In  1890 
it  was  $1,721,516,  and  in  1900,  $1,740,988. 

The  manufacture  of  carriage  robes  shows  a  decided 
increase,  both  in  volume  and  value,  the  figures  being, 
for  1890,  775,963  square  yards,  valued  at  $646,904,  and, 
in  1900,  1,740,089  square  yards,  valued  at  $987,109. 

Shawlts. — The  shawl  manufacture,  which  showed  a 
great  decrease  in  1890  shows  a  still  furt"her  reduction  in 
1900.  The  prevailing  fashion  for  cloth  and  fur  gar- 
ments for  ladies'  use  and  for  knitted  shawls  and  similar 
wraps,  has  so  reduced  the  demand  for  woven  shawls  that 
the  reports  show  the  production  of  only  600,104  square 
yards,  valued  at  $500,523,  which  is  onlj-  one-seventh  of 
the  quantity  and  one-fourth  of  the  value  of  the  shawls 
produced  in  1890. 

Woohn  Dress  Goods. — The  production  of  all-wool 
dress  goods  has  increased  largely  since  1890,  while  at 
the  same  time  the  cotton- warp  product  shows  a  reduc- 
tion. The  statistics  are  given  under  the  head  of  dress 
goods  in  connection  with  the  worsted  manufacture. 


CLASS   II — WORSTED    GOODS. 

The  next  great  division  of  the  wool  manufacture  is 
the  combcd-wool  })ranch,  in  which  arc  maiuifactured 
worsted  cloths  and  suitings,  worsted  dress  goods, 
upholstery  goods  and  l)raids,  and  large  quantities  of 
worsted  yarns  for  use  in  the  carpet  manufacture.  The 
worsted  mills  are  distinguished  from  the  woolen  mills 
by  the  initial  processes  to  which  the  fiber  is  subjected. 
In  the  early  days  of  the  wool  manufacture  in  this  country 
carded-wool  pixxlucts  only  were  produced,  partly  be- 
cause of  the  more  simple  character  of  the  operations, 
and  partly  from  the  fact  that  the  wool  of  Merino  sheep 
raised  here  was  not  well  adapted  to  the  com})ing  process 
as  carried  on  by  hand,  or  T)j'  early  combing  machines, 
for  a  long-staple  wool  was  retiuired  to  produce  the  best 
results.  The  improvements  in  the  combing  machine, 
which  enables  it  to  comb  wool  of  short  staple,  and  the 
adaptation  of  our  wools  to  the  combing  process  con- 
sequent upon  the  crossing  of  the  Merino  sheep  with 
those  of  English  blood,  have  resulted  in  the  phenomenal 
growth  of  tills  industry. 

It  is  claimed  that  John  Marland,  at  a  mill  in  Ballard- 
vale,  Mass. ,  made,  in  1843,  the  first  attempt  to  manu- 
facture worsted  goods  in  the  United  States.  He  under- 
took the  manufacture  of  delaines,  both  printed  and 
piece  dyecf,  but  was  not  verj-  successful.  Other  at- 
tempts were  made  by  the  Amoskeag  Mills  and  the 
Manchester  Mills,  at  Manchester,  N.  H.,  the  latter 
company  introducing  their  first  combing  machine  in 
1855.  The  Pacific  ]\Iills  at  Lawrence  imported  from 
England  six  Lister  combs  in  1854,  and  these  are  be- 
lieved to  have  been  the  first  combing  machines  of  this 
pattern  set  up  in  the  United  States.  The  Hamilton 
"W^ooleii  Company,  at  Southbridge,  Mass.,  commenced 
the  manufacture  of  dress  goods  at  about  this  time. 
The  Washington  Mills,  of  Lawrence,  Mass.,  soon  fol- 
lowed, manufacturing  all-wool  worsted  dress  goods. 
It  was  not  until  about  1869  or  1870,  that  the  manufac- 
ture of  worsted  cloths  for  men's  wear  was  commenced 
in  the  United  States. 

The  following  table  shows  the  development  of  the 
industr}-  since  1860,  at  which  time  only  three  worsted 
mills,  the  Manchester,  Pacific,  and  Hamilton,  were 
found  in  this  country: 


Library 

Citrus  Experiment  Station 

University  of  California 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIRDRNIA 

RIVERSIDE 


102 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  10.— WORSTKD  (iooDS:  COM  PA  RATI  VK  SUMMARY,   18G0  TO  1900,  WITH    I'KR  CENT  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH 

DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capitiil 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  ItJ  years  and  over 

Wages , 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages ." 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 

Number  of  spindles 

Number  of  looms 

Number  of  combing  machines 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 


IflOO 


$132, 168, 

1, 

$2,342, 

S7, 

$20, 092, 

25, 

$11,300, 

25, 

$7,831, 

5, 

$%1, 

$6, 767, 

$77. 075, 

$120,314, 

1,371, 

26, 

1, 


1890 


143 

$68, 085, 116 

2  615 

=$935,217 

42, 978 

$14,944,966 

19, 071 

$8, 430, 625 

20, 082 

$5,877,717 

3,825 

$636,  624 

$4,917,760 

$.50. 706. 769 

879,194.6.52 

755, 080 

19,095 

673 


188(1 


$20, 374, 043 
{') 

18,803 

$.5,683,027 

6.435 

(') 

9,473 

m 

2, 895 

$22,013,628 

$33,  .549. 942 

240, 118 

14,411 


102 
810,085,778 

m 

12,920 

$4,368,857 

3,864 

(') 
7,152 

e) 

1.904 

(') 

$14,308,198 

$22,090,331 

200, 617 

6,128 

161 


1860 


$3, 230, 000 

(') 

2,378 

$543,6*4 
1,101 

m 

1,277 


(') 

(M 
$2,442,775 
$3,701,378 

(') 


FEB  CENT  OF  INCBEASE. 


1890 

to 
1900 


30. 

94. 
122. 
150. 

32. 

34. 

34. 

34. 

28. 

33. 

46. 

51. 

37. 

52. 

61. 

81. 

38. 


1880 

to 
1890 


88.2 
2*4.2 


128.6 
163.0 
196.4 


112. 0 
"'32.'i' 


130.3 
136.1 
214.6 
32.6 
133.7 


1870 

to 
1880 


125.6 
102.0 


46.5 
30.1 
66.5 


32.5 
'52."6' 


53.9 
51.9 
19.7 
135.2 

7.S.9 


1860 

to 
1870 


3,300.0 
212. 3 


443.3 

703.6 
251.0 


48.5.7 
496.8 


1  Decrease. 

'  Includes  proprietors  and  tlrm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.    (See  Table  32). 

'  Not  reported  separately. 

<  Not  reported. 


The  table  reveals  a  continuous  growth  of  the  industry 
since  1870,  notwithstanding  the  reduction  in  number  of 
factories  between  187()  and  1880.  On  the  basis  of  the 
averages  per  establishment  the  comparison  of  gTowth 
from  decade  to  decade  is  still  more  striking.  In  1860 
onl_v  the  three  large  establishments  previously  referred 
to  existed.  Their  capital  as  reported  averaged  over 
$1,000,000,  with  a  consumption  of  materials  exceeding 
1800,000,  and  a  product  averaging  nearly  $1,231:.000. 
These  same  factories  are  carrying  on  the  business  to-day, 
and  have  had  their  influence  in  nuiintaining  the  average 
ratios  in  each  of  the  other  decades.  The  tabular  state- 
ment following  exhibits  the  averages  in  capital,  cost  of 
materials  consumed,  and  value  of  product  for  each  dec- 
ade, but,  because  of  the  difl'erent  methods  of  reporting 
the  number  of  wage-earners,  a  similar  statement  of 
wages  is  not  possible. 


Establishments 

Average  capital  employed. 
Average  eo^t  of  materials. . 
Average  value  of  products. 


1»00 


1890 


186  143 

$710,  .581  $476,120 
$414,383  $364,693 
$646^851,  $553,809 


76 
$267,080 
$289,653 
$441,447 


18J0 


102 
$98,880 
$140, 276 
8216, 672 


1860 


81.076,666 

$814,2.58 

$1,233,793 


The  statement  shows  a  steady  increase  per  establish- 
ment in  each  of  the  items,  and,  in  connection  with  the 
table  preceding,  emphasizes  not  only  the  growth  of 
the  industry  as  a  whole,  but  the  progressive  growth  of 
the  individual  establishments.  In  1870  the  capital  em- 
ployed was  only  $98,880  per  establishment.  In  1880  it 
hiid  increased  $168,20".  In  1890  there  had  been  a  still 
further  increase  of  $209,0-40,  and  in  1900  an  additional 
increase  of  $23'1,461,  so  that  in  that  year  the  average 
capital  employed  per  otablishment  was$710,.581.  Simi- 
lar gains,  although  not  in  so  large  a  ratio,  were  made, 
both  in  materials  used  and  in  products,  the  first  show- 
ing an  increase  from  $140,276  in  1870  to  $41-1,383  in 
1900,  and  theother  increasing  from  $216,672  to  $646,851. 


A  veiy  interesting  feature,  which  is  more  apparent  in 
this  statement  than  in  the  preceding  table,  is  the  fact 
that  the  relation  of  cost  of  materials  to  value  of  prod- 
ucts varies  but  very  slightly  in  the  four  census  reports, 
being  in  each  case  very  nearly  in  the  ratio  of  2  to  3. 

Worsted  Cloths. — The  most  important  division  in  value, 
if  not  in  quantity,  of  the  worsted  indu.stry  is  the  produc- 
tion of  cloths  for  men's  wear.  As  has  been  stated,  this 
manufacture  was  not  begun  in  the  United  States  until 
about  1870.  Several  mills  claim  the  distinction  of  being 
the  first  to  produce  such  go  )ds  in  this  country,  the  Wa.sh- 
ington,  at  Lawrence,  Ma.ss.,  the  Hockanum,  at  Rock- 
ville.  Conn.,  and  the  Wanskuck,  at  Providence,  R.  1. 
The  cost  of  the  necessar}^  machinery;  the  unsuitable 
character  of  domestic  wools;  the  heavy  duty  on  suitable 
foreign  wools,  preventing  to  .some  extent  their  impor- 
tation; all  tended  to  hamper  the  introduction  and  growth 
of  this  manufacture  in  the  United  States.  In  spite  of 
adver.se  conditions,  the  industry  took  root  and  grew 
so  rapidl}-  that  the  quantity  of  all-wool  worsted  coat- 
ings, cassimeres,  etc.,  for  men's  wear,  manufactured  in 
1890,  amounted  to  17,591,087  square  yards,  valued  at 
$22,386,452. 

The  result  is  seen  in  the  splendid  growth  of  the  indus- 
try in  the  last  decade  from  143  establishments,  with 
$68,085,116  capital  and  products  valued  at  $79,194,652, 
in  1890,  to  an  industry  represented  in  1900  by  186  estab- 
lishments, with  a  capital  of  $132,168,110  and  a  produc- 
tion valued  at  $120,314,344. 

The  quantity  of  all-wool  worsted  coatings,  suitings, 
overcoatings, etc., manufactured  in  1900  was  54.910.812 
square  yards,  valued  at  $43,570,940,  which  is  three 
times  the  quantity  of  such  goods  made  in  1890  and 
nearly  twice  the  value.  There  were  also  manufactured 
12,663,719  square  yards  of  cotton-warp  worsteds,  valued 
at  $7,267,508.  The  production  of  these  goods  in  190(> 
was  about  the  same  as  in  1890.     The  importation  of  all 


WOOL. 


103 


clotlis  for  iiK'ii'.s  wear  entered  for  con.suinptioii  in  the 
fiscal  3'car  ending  June  30, 1900,  was  4,860,777  pounds, 
having  a  duty-paid  value  of  $9,743,384.  They  were 
high-class  godds,  averaging  to  cost,  landed,  about  P2 
per  pound.  As  the  Treasury  reports  of  importations 
give  the  (|uantity  of  these  goods  in  pounds.it  is  impos- 
sible to  tell  the  yardage  which  these  imports  represent. 
Assuming,  however,  12  ounces  per  square  yard  as  a  fair 
average,  the  iinportations  for  the  year  would  represent 
6,500,000  square  yards,  valued  at  about  $1.50  per  yard. 
These  importations  are  nearly  all  worsted  cloths,  as 
very  few  woolen  cloths  are  imported.  How  nearly  the 
manufacturers  of  the  United  States  come  to  suj^plying 
the  home  market  is  seen  in  the  fact  that  the  production 
of  worsted  suitings  and  overcoatings  amounted  to 
67,574,531  yards,  valued  at  $50,838,448,  or  more  than 
91  per  cent  of  the  total  supply,  as  ascertained  by  com- 
bining the  imports  with  the  home  j>roduction. 

Dress  Goads. — Men's  wear  goods  are  divided  into  the 
two  general  classes  of  woolens  and  worsteds,  which  are 
further  subdivided  into  all-wool,  cotton-warp,  and  cot- 
ton-mixed goods.  The  same  divisions  and  subdivisions 
exist  in  the  di-ess  fabrics  for  women's  wear.  The 
quantities  and  values  of  each  class  are  shown  herewith: 

DRESS  GOODS  MANUFACTURED  IN  1900. 


WORSTED. 

WOOLEN. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

57,712,086 
45,784,011 

$16,316,392 
10,423,206 

33,597,692 
7,496,898 

$12,978,546 
1,890,488 

Cotton  warp  and  cot- 
ton mixed  

Total 

103,496,097 

26,739,598 

41,094,590 

14,869,034 

Total  worsted  dress  goods . 
Total  woolen  dress  goods. . 

Total  dress  goods 


Square  j-ards. 


103,496,097 
41,094,590 


144,590,687 


Value. 


$26, 739, 598 
14, 869, 034 


41,608,632 


In  addition  to  the  above  there  were  manufactured 
11,176,752  square  yards  of  sackings,  tricots,  opera  flan- 
nels, etc..  all  of  which  are  practically  dress  goods  or 
used  for  the  same  purpose,  valued  at  $3,(369,584,  mak- 
ing the  total  of  fabrics  for  women's  wear  155,767,439 
square  yards,  with  a  value  of  $45,27^^,216. 

Worsted  Dress  Goods. — The  production  of  worsted 
dress  goods  is  much  the  most  important  part  of  the 
dress  goods  manufacture.  In  1860  the  3  mills  engaged 
in  the  business  produced  goods  to  the  value  of  $3,7i)l,378, 
for  which  no  quantity  was  reported.  At  the  census  of 
1900  the  production  of  worsted  dress  goods  was  reported 
at  l(i3,4!tt),097  square  yards,  having  a  total  value  of 
$26,739,598.  Of  these  57,712,086  square  yards  were 
made  entirely  of  wool,  and  45,784,011  square  yards  of 
wool  weft  with  a  warp  of  cotton,  or  vice  versa.  The 
value  of  all  wool  fabrics  was  $16,316,392,  and  of  the 
cotton  warps  $10,423,206.     In  1890  the  production  of 


worsted  dress  goods  was  73,907,259  square  yards,  valued 
at  $16,328,S36,  divided  as  follows:  All  wool,  11,349,319 
square  yards,  $3,905,398;  cotton  warp,  62,-557,940  square 
yards,  $12,423,438.  The  increase  in  production  of  the 
worsted  goods  in  the  decade  has  therefore  been  40  per 
cent  in  (juantit}'  and  63. S  per  cent  in  value. 

Woolen  Dress  Goods. — The  quantity  of  fabrics  tabu- 
lated as  all-wool  dress  goods  is  33,597,692  square  ^-ards, 
\alued  at  $1 2,97S,546.  Of  cotton  warp,  wool-weft  dress 
goods  the  manufacture  amounted  to  7,496,898  square 
yards;  to  this  should  be  added  the  sackings,  tricots,  and 
opera  flannels  named  above,  which  make  the  production 
of  cotton- warp  dress  goods  for  women's  wear  18,673,650 
square  yards,  valued  at  $5,560,072,  and  the  total  produc- 
tion of  woolen  dress  fabrics  52,271,342  square  yards, 
with  a  value  of  $18,538,618.  The  production  of  all- 
wool  dress  goods  in  1890  was  25,237,390  square  yards, 
valued  at  $9,014,477;  of  cotton  warps,  17,655,803  square 
yards,  $4,274,012;  and  of  union  or  cotton  mixed  sack- 
ings, etc.,  9,892,377  square  yards,  $2,532,598;  making 
the  total  production  of  woolen  goods  for  women's  wear 
in  1890,  52,785,570  square  yards,  valued  at  $15,821,087. 

In  the.se  fabrics,  therefore,  the  quantity  produced 
varies  but  little,  being  514.228  square  yards  less  than 
ten  years  earlier,  but  the  value  has  increased  $2,717,531, 
or  17.2  per  cent. 

The  total  production  of  dress  fabrics  in  1890  amounted 
to  127;259,709  square  yards,  and  in  1900  to  155,767,439 
square  yards,  the  value  being  $32,285,906  in  1890,  and 
$45,278,216  in  1900. 

The  gain  in  production  was  therefore  22.4  per  cent 
in  quantity  and  40.2  per  cent  in  value.  The  greater 
percentage  of  increase  in  value  over  the  increase  in 
quantity  indicates  the  production  of  a  higher  grade  of 
goods.  The  manufacturers  of  the  United  States  are 
competing  succe.ssfuUy  with  those  of  England  and 
France  in  meeting  the  demands  of  the  American  mar- 
ket for  these  fabrics.  The  various  changes  in  the  tariff 
during  the  decade,  and  the  resulting  different  methods 
of  reporting  the  quantities  of  importations  of  dress 
goods,  make  it  impossible  to  present  a  satisfactor}-  table 
showing  these  imports,  for  during  the  existence  of  the 
tariff  of  1894  all  dress  goods  were  reported  in  pounds, 
and  a  reduction  to  the  square  j'ard  is  made  on  a  purel}- 
arbitrary  basis.  In  the  following  table  the  standard  u.sed 
in  the  census  of  1890 — 4.5  ounces  to  the  square  yard — is 
adopted  for  all  such  goods  imported  liy  weight  under  the 
tariffs  of  1890  and  1897.  Under  the  law  of  1894  the  light- 
weight dress  goods,  as  well  as  the  heavier  goods,  were 
assessed  for  duty  on  the  pound  basis.  The  standard  of 
4.5  ounces  is  therefore  not  .suitable  for  these  importa- 
tions. A  standard  of  4  ounces  to  the  square  yard  will 
.not  be  greatly  out  of  the  way  for  an  estimate  of  the 
quantity  of  dress  fabrics  imported  under  that  law.  The 
table  thus  prepared  shows  the  foreign  values,  and  the 
estimated  quantities  of  dress  goods  imported  in  the  last 
two  decades. 


104 


MANUFACTURES. 


IMPORTS  OF  DRESS  GOODS  ENTERED  FOR  CONSUMP- 
TION, 1881  TO  1900,  INCLUSIVE. 


YEARS. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

1881                                                       

61,990,172 
93,772,866 
93, 920, 152 
03,831,494 
41,491,520 
67,346,150 
76,871,189 
85,604,490 
93,261,526 
107,915,289 

$15,961,066 

1882 

19,070,8)7 

1883                                    .                

22, 619, 106 

1884 

15, 349, 097 

1886           .                                              

14, 197,  987 

1886 

14,971,277 

1887                                                      .                   

17,199,141 

1888 

18,  742, 493 

1889                                                                           

19.793,253 

1890 

22,668,293 

Total 

785,904,838 

180, 572, 530 

1891 

91,874,084 
76,575,126 
86,7.57,3.55 
40,656,267 
67,719,063 
96,458,868 
95,120,674 
28,213,947 
27.808,376 
25, 905, 693 

19, 659, 983 

1892 

1893 

1891 

16,630,371 

17,821,574 

8  647,268 

1895 

14,  .505. 778 
19, 494, 268 

1896 .■ 

1897 

18,187,846 

1898 

6, 798, 213 

1899 

6, 038, 9.50 

6,896,820 

637,089,453 

132,580,061 

78,590,483 
63,708,945 

18,057.253 
13,258,006 

Assuming  that  the  annual  average  importation  for 
the  decade  is  a  fair  representation  of  the  imports,  and 
adding  the  domestic  production,  the  total  annual  con- 
sumption of  these  goods  amounts  to  219,476,384  square 
yards.  By  a  similar  calculation  it  appears  that  the 
quantity  consumed  in  1890  was  205,850,1'92  .square 
yards,  and  the  increase  of  1900  over  1890,  6.6  per  cent. 
The  domestic  manufacturers  were  able  to  supph'  in  1890, 
62  per  cent  of  the  requirements  of  the  people  of  the 
United  States,  while  in  1900  they  supplied  over  71  per 
cent  of  the  fabrics  needed.  The  average  value  per 
square  3'ard  of  all  dress  goods  of  domestic  production 
is  29.07  cents,  and  the  foreign  value  of  the  imported 
dress  goods  for  the  year  last  shown  averages  22. 76  cents 
per  square  yard  and  the  duty-paid  value  41.47  cents. 
These  facts  indicate  that  at  the  present  time  the  mills 
here  supply  the  demands  of  the  American  public  for  the 
great  mass  of  dress  goods,  and  that  the  so-called  "  novel- 
ties," goods  with  fancy  effects  produced  in  the  weave  or 
coloring,  furnisls  the  most  of  these  imports. 

BKAIDS. 

Braids,  as  known  to  the  wool  manufacture,  are  made 
both  from  woolen  and  worsted  yarns,  but  mostl}'  from 
the  latter.  They  are  used  for  bindings  and  for  trim- 
mings, for  which  many  fancy  braids  are  made.  The 
braid  manufacture  was  established  in  this  countr}^  bj' 
Darius  Goff,  at  Pawtucket,  R.  1.,  in  1861,  where  the 
business  is  still  carried  on  b}'  his  successors.  During 
the  decade  the  business  has  grown  from  11  establish- 
ments, with  a  production  of  $1,264,622,  to  17  establish-* 
nients,  producing  $2,264,661.  In  1900  they  were  located 
as  follows:  9  in  New  York,  4  in  Pennsylvania,  2  in  Mas- 
sachusetts, and  2  in  Rhode  Island.  Of  the  number  of 
'oraiders  reported,  which  number  has  increased  from 


10,750  to  1,5,086.  New  York  has  9.628,  Penn.-^ylvania 
2,258,  and  Massachusetts  and  Hiiodc  Lshtnd  3,20(J.  Now 
York  manufactures  nearly  one-half  of  the  braids,  her 
product  amounting  to  $1,0H2,713,  No  attempt  is  made 
to  present  the  ((uantity  of  braids  manufactured,  liecause 
there  is  no  standard  width.  As  the}'  range  from  one- 
fourth  inch  to  3  or  more  inches  wide,  a  statement  by 
running  j'ards  would  convey  but  little  meaning. 

PLUSHES   AND    PILE    FABRICS. 

The  manufacture  of  plushes  and  pile  fabrics  has 
become  a  very  important  part  of  the  worsted  industry, 
and  is  conducted  chiefly  in  Maine,  Rhode  Island,  Con- 
necticut, and  Pennsylvania;  but  the  statistics  are  not  .so 
segregated  that  a  separate  statement  can  be  made. 

CLA,SS    III. — CARPETS   AND    CARPETING. 

The  carpet  manufacture  is  one  of  the  most  important 
branches  of  the  wool  manufacturing  indu.stry.  It  dates 
back  in  this  country  to  the  last  years  of  the  Eighteenth 
century.  The  earliest  record  of  it  is  that  W.  P.  Sprague 
opened  a  carpet  manufactoiy  in  1791  in  Philadelphia. 
In  1820  carpets  woven  by  hand  are  reported  as  being 
made  in  Rhode  Island,  New  York,  and  Maryland:  these 
were  probably  rag  carpets.  Alexander  Wright,  a 
Scotchman,  started  a  small  mill  in  Medway,  Mass.,  in 
1825,  with.hand  looms  which  he  brought  from  Scotland. 
This  mill  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Lowell  Manufac- 
turing Company,  then  recently  organized,  and  on  the 
completion  of  their  mill  at  Lowell,  Mass. ,  tlie  machinery 
was  moved  there.  These  are  the  beginnings  of  a  manu- 
facture which,  in  a  little  more  than  a  century,  has  be- 
come one  of  the  leading  industries  of  the  country.  It 
now  finds  employment  for  millions  of  capital,  gives  re- 
munerative occupation  to  thousands  of  operatives,  and 
produces  millions  of  dollars  worth  of  fabrics  which  add 
to  the  comfort  and  cater  to  the  tastes  of  the  American 
people. 

It  is  to  the  inventive  genius  and  the  business  ability 
of  Erastus  B.  Bigelow,  of  Boston,  Mass.,  more  than 
to  any  other  man,  that  the  carpet  industry  of  the  world 
owes  its  great  prominence.  He  first,  in  1.S44.  adapted 
the  power  loom  to  the  weaving  of  ingrain  carpets.  A 
few  years  later  he  invented  and  patented  the  power 
loom  for  weaving  Jacquard  Brussels  and  Wilton  car- 
pets. To  him  also  are  due  the  inventions  for  weaving 
tapestry  Brussels  and  tapestry  velvet  carpets.  Alexan- 
der Smith  and  Halcyon  Skinner,  of  Yonkers,  N.  Y., 
obtained  in  1856  a  patent  for  a  power  loom  for  weaving 
Axminster  carpets,  which,  however,  was  not  utilized 
till  1867.  These  inventions  are  the  foundation  of  the 
modern  carpet  manufacture.  It  is  only  a  little  more 
than  ten  years  since  the  power  loom  was  applied  to  the 
manufacture  of  Smyrna  carpets  and  rugs,  and  a  largely 
increased  output  has  been  the  result.  Table  17  presents 
the  principal  statistics  of  the  carpet  manufacture  since 
1850,  when  it  first  appeared  in  the  census  records. 


WOOL. 


105 


Table  17.— CARPETS  AND  RUGS,    OTHER  THAN  RAG:  COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1850  TO  1890,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF 

INCREASE  FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 


1900 


1890 


1880 


1870 


1800 


1850 


PER  CE.VT  OF  INCREASE. 


18!M> 

to 
1900 


1880 

to 
1890 


1870 

to 
1880 


1860 

to 
1870 


1850 

to 
1860 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  oflieials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  nvimber 

Total  wages 

Men.  Itj  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women.  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Cbildreu.  vnider  l(i  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  product.s 

Number  of  looms 


844,449, 

SS81, 

•28, 

*11,121, 

13, 

12, 

$4,113, 

2, 

$2,751, 

$27,228, 

$48, 192, 

12, 


$38,208, 

'J 

=  $.510, 

28, 

$11,122, 

13, 

$6,510, 

13, 

$4, 248, 

$3fi3i 

$1,819. 

$28,644, 

$47, 770, 

11. 


$21,468, 

C) 

(») 

20, 

$6,S35, 

10, 


818, 984, 

$31,792, 

7, 


8,570 


215 
$12,540,750 


12,098 

$4,681,718 

6,808 

(=) 

4,316 

(?) 

974 

(') 

(^) 
$13,577,993 
$21,761,573 
5,426 


213 
$4,721,768 


6,681 

$1,54.5,692 

3,910 

C) 

2,771 

') 


116 
$3,852,981 

i'J 

6,186 
$1,246,560 
3,881 
(») 

2,305 
') 


(*) 
$4,417,986 
$7,857,636 

m 


$3,075,592 

$5,401,234 

(*) 


123. 
16. 

78. 
72 

1 T. 

(') 

1. 

2. 
U. 
•3. 

3. 

1. 
51. 
'4. 

0. 
11. 


111.3 
78.0 


19.3 

71.2 


0.9  I 
165.6  I 


83.6 
22.6 


41.1 
62.7 
35.1 


68.4 
46.0 
48.4 


81.1  j 
202.9  I 
74.1  I 


8.0 

24.0 

0.7 


52.6 


98.6 
'74.'2' 


55.1 


50.9 
50.3 
54.9 


39.8 
46.1 
33.7 


207.3 

177.0 


43.6 

4.5.5 


1  Deerease. 

2  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table. 

8  Not  reported  separately. 

<Not  reported. 

'  Less  than  one-tenth  of  1  per  cent. 


(See  Table  33.) 


The  table  shows  not  only  the  growth  of  the  industrj-, 
but  also  the  tendent'y  toward  combination  of  capital 
and  centralization  of  industries;  be<rinning  in  1850  with 
116  establishments  and  $3,852,981  capital,  it  increased 
in  twenty  years  to  215  establishments  with  a  capital 
of  $12,540,750.  Since  then  each  census  report  has 
shown  a  decreased  number  of  factories'  and  an  in- 
creased capital.  At  this  time  the  number  has  been 
reduced  to  nearly  the  original  lumiber  of  1850,  but  the 
capital  is  nearly  twelve  times  the  amount  employed  in 
that  year.  The  number  of  wage- earners  and  the  amount 
paid  in  wages  vaiy  but  little  in  the  reports  of  the  cen- 
sus of  1900  from  the  corresponding  statements  of  the 
one  preceding.  The  number  of  sets  of  cards  employed 
has  increased  from  392  to  468  and  the  number  of  combs 
from  118  to  1.31:.  but  the  number  of  .spinning  .spindles 
employed  in  the  carpet  mills  shows  a  decrease  of  ■41,735, 
which  is  wholly  in  worsted  spindles.  The  woolen  and 
cotton  spindles  each  show  an  increased  number.  In 
1800  there  were  151.132  worsted  spindles,  but  in  1900 
only  97,191  were  reported  as  in  operation.  The  fol- 
lowing tabular  statement  shows  the  number  of  looms, 
both  hand  and  power,  employed  on  each  variety  of  car- 


'  1870  showed  2  more  establishments  than  1860. 

LOOMS  IN  CARPET  MANUFACTORIES,  1890  AND  1900. 


pets  in  1900  and  1890,  and  also  the  transfer  of  manufac- 
turing forces  from  hand  to  power  looms  in  the  decade, 
and  from  one  kind  of  carpet  to  another.  The  total 
number  of  looms  employed  in  the  carpet  mills  was  12,511, 
an  increase  of  1,276  over  1890.  Of  these  looms  1,757 
were  engaged  in  the  production  of  woolen  or  worsted 
cloth,  leaving  10,754  looms  for  the  carpet  manufacture, 
which  is  144  less  than  was  shown  in  1890.  The  ingrain 
carpet  manufacture  emploj-ed  4,693  looms;  1,835  were 
engaged  on  tapestry  Brussels,  velvets,  and  rugs;  544  on 
Brussels;  507  on  Wiltons;  761  on  Axminster  and  Mo- 
quettes;  and  80  on  Venetian  carpets.  The  955  hand 
looms  and  1,358  power  looms  engaged  in  the  rug  manu- 
facture were  included  in  the  total  number  of  carpet  looms. 
The  number  of  hand  looms  was  about  two-fifths 
of  the  number  employed  in  1890,  and  the  decrease 
was  almost  the  same  numerically  as  the  increase  in 
power  looms.  The  changes  from  Brussels  to  tapestry 
velvet  looms,  and  from  body  Brussels  to  Wilton  and 
Axminster,  do  not  necessarily  indicate  a  throwing  out 
of  looms  of  either  class  and  their  replacement  by  others, 
but  simply  the  change  of  product  of  the  looms,  only 
slight  alterations  being  necessary  to  adapt  a  tapestry 
Brussels  loom  for  making  tapestry  velvet,  or  a  body 
Brussels  for  making  Wiltons. 


CARPET   LOOMS. 

INGRAINS. 

' 

YEAR. 

Total  all 
looms. 

Total  all 
looms  on 
carpets. 

Hand.      Power. 

Broad. 

Hand.      Power. 

Hand.   '  Power. 

Hand. 

Power. 

1900 

12,511 
11,235 

10,754 
10,898 

1,048          9.706 
2,598          8,300 

92 
631 

4,354 
4,214 

1             246 

•SO 

1890               .     .                   

157 

109 

TAPESTRY. 

Body 
Brussels, 
power. 

WUton, 
power. 

Axmin- 
ster, 

Mo- 
quette, 
power. 

RCG. 

UMMS  ON  WOOLEN 
GOODS. 

YEAR. 

Brussels, 
power. 

Velvet, 
power. 

po 

wer. 

Hand.  1  Power. 

Broad. 

Narrow 

.   Hand. 

1900 

1,094 
1,498 

787 

544 

1.294 

507 
62 

fill 

150 
462 

955          1,383 
1,810             578 

814 
194 

897 
44 

46 

1890 

.<» 

95 

99 

i 

106 


MANUFACTUKES. 


Mnterials  Coitxiniu-d. — The  cost  of  materials  used, 
which  uniouuted  in  11>00  to  1^27.228.710.  against  $28, 644,- 
905  in  1890,  shows  a  small  reduction,  4.9  per  cent, 
but  this  arises  from  reduced  prices  and  chanfres  in 
character  of  muterials  used,  and  not  from  lessened  quan- 
tity, as  shown  in  the  following  table: 

QUANTITIES  OF  MATERIALS  USED  IN  THE  CARPET  MAN- 
UFACTURE: 1900  AND  1890. 


Foreign  wool  used: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Domestic  wool  used: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Scoured  wool,  pounds 

Hair,  all  kinds,  pounds 

Cotton,  pounds 

Shoddy,  etc.,  pounds 

Waste,"  noils,  etc.,  pounds  . 

Woolen  yarn,  pounds 

Worstedyam,  pounds 

Mixed  yarn,  pounds 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds 


Linen  yarn,  pounds 

Jute  and  other  yarns,  pounds  . 


1«00 


1890 


51, 761,  .523 

.54,742,2,34 

SS,  077, 420 

89,422,031 

109,811 

2,139,332 

S26,  687 

$433,756 

37, 560, 231 

35,726,837 

6. 1S9, 7.57 

4.647,025 

1,943,942 

1,725,761 

744,233 

.598, 512 

2,  .525, 054 

892, 548 

32,996,316 

18, 763, 201 

9,218,267 

10, 555, 799 

237, 970 

19, 823,  .561 

17,920,498 

8,388,211 

9,719,242 

39,034.827 

23, 852, 517 

The  total  quantity  of  materials  used,  including  wool 
"in  condition  purchased,"  was  172,973,472  pounds,  as 
compared  with  145,556,669  pounds  in  1890,  an  increase 
of  27,416,803  pounds  in  all,  equal  to  18.8  per  cent.  The 
quantity  of  wool  in  condition  purchased  was  5,010,232 
pounds  less   than   was  used   in   1890.    but    this   wool 


when  scoured  shows  a  smaller  amount  of  shrinkage 
than  appeared  in  1890,  so  that  the  quantity  of  clean 
wool  used  exceeded  the  quantity  u.sed  in  1890  by  1,833,- 
394  pounds.  In  addition  to  the  scoured  wool.  1,750,913 
pounds  of  other  tibers  in  the  raw  state  were  u.sed  in  1900 
in  excess  of  the  quantity  u.sed  in  1890,  and  12,895.583 
pounds  more  of  woolen  and  wor.sted  yarns  and  15,992,- 
312  pounds  more  of  other  yarns,  manufactured  in  other 
mills,  were  used  than  were  used  ten  years  previously. 
The  total  quantity  of  purchased  j-arns  used  in  1900  was 
109,699,152  pounds.  In  1890,  80,811.257  pounds  of 
yai'ns  were  used. 

Production. — The  production  has  likewise  experi- 
enced a  continuous  growth.  In  1850  the  mills  produced 
goods  to  the  value  of  §5,401.234,  using  materials  cost- 
ing $3,075,592.  Each  decade  has  .seen  an  inci-ea.se  in 
value  of  product;  at  the  census  of  1900  the  production 
had  increased  to  $48,192,351,  and  the  cost  of  materials 
used  to  $27,228,719.  It  is  true  that  the  value  of  prod- 
ucts is  but  slightly  more  than  the  similar  amount  in 
1890,  but  the  production  of  carpets,  measured  in  run- 
ning yards,  the  yard-wide  and  the  three-quarter  goods 
being  all  counted  together,  was  760,917  yards  in  excess 
of  the  production  of  that  3'ear.  The  following  state- 
ment, in  which  the  figures  for  1880  are  also  included, 
furnishes  the  data  for  a  more  correct  estimate  of  the 
actual  relative  production  of  the  two  periods: 


QUANTITY  AND  KIND  OF  CARPETS  PRODUCED,  1880  TO  1900. 


DATE  OF  CENSUS. 


1900. 

1890. 
1880. 


Total  carpets, 

running 

yards. 


75,531,827 
74, 770, 910 
39,282,634 


Ingrain,     '  .  Ingrain, 

2-ply.        I       3-ply, 

square  yards,  square  yards. 


36,698,292  I 
32,918,669  ; 
21,986,434 


3, 222. 557 

3,251,368 

862,394 


Ingrain,  art, 
square  yards. 


2,328,906 
553,513 


Venetian, 

running 

yards. 


Body  Brus- 
sels, funning 
yards. 


3,581,991 
9,442,348 
4,077,190 


Tapestry 
Brussels,  run- 
ning yards. 


11,649.932 
20,008,961 
9, 441, 195 


Tapestry  vel- 
vet, running 
yards. 


5, 706, 754 

2,482,128 

60,000 


DATE  0>-   C:ENSI'S. 

Wilton  and 

Wilton  velvet, 

running 

yards. 

Axminster. 

running 

yards. 

Moquette, 

running 

yards. 

Smyrna, 
square  yards. 

Cottage, 
square  yards. 

Dutch, 
square  yards. 

Rag,  square 
yards. 

All  other, 
square  yards. 

1900 

4, 782, 835 

1,030,101 

157, 629 

5,074,961 
379,341 
303, 366 

1,627,410 
3, 193, 186 

858,189 
127, 177 

1 

1890 

71,310             1,312,818 
157,005                     --  - 

1880 

241,220 

12,000 

The  comparative  production  of  each  of  the  two  great 
divisions  of  the  manufacture  is  as  follows:  The  num- 
ber of  yards  of  ingrain  carpets,  which  includes  all  the 
2  and  3  ply  carpets  and  ingrain  art  squares,  which 
amounted  to  36,723,540  square  yards  in  1890,  in  1900 
amounted  to  42,249,755  square  yards,  an  increase  of 
5,526,215  square  3'ards;  the  number  of  running  yards 
of  all  three-quarter  carpets,  that  is,  the  tapestries, 
Brussels,  Wiltons,  etc.,  which  in  1890  was  36,536,065 
yards,  in  1900  showed  a  reduction  to  32,423,883  3'ards, 
a  falling  off  of  4.112,182  running  vards.  By  reducing 
the  three-quarter  goods  to  the  square-yard  measure- 
ment, a  uniform  standard  is  reached,  by  which  a  com- 
parison of  the  total  3'ardage  of  the  manufacture  can  l)e 
obtained,  except  that  in  1890  the  report  of  the  manufac- 
ture of  rugs  was  made  in  number  of  individual  rugs, 
while  at  the  census  of    1900  the  report  was  made  in 


square  yards.  If  rugs  are  I'eported  in  square  yards 
hereafter,  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  making  com- 
pari.sons  of  the  total  production  of  these  mills  by 
quantitj^ 

The  production  of  three-quarter  wide  carpet  in  1890 
was  36,536,065  running  yards,  equal  to  27.402,049 
square  yards.  In  1900  the  production  of  similar  car- 
pets was  32.423,883  running  yards,  equal  to  24,317.912 
square  yards.  The  total  production  of  carpets,  there- 
fore, aside  from  the  quantities  of  rugs  manufactured 
and  Smj'rna  carpets  reported  as  rugs,  was  equal  to 
64,125,589  square  yards  in  1890  and  66,567,667  square 
yards  in  1900,  an  increase  of  2.-t42,078  .square  yards. 

In  addition  to  the  carpets  produced,  there  were 
8,984,194  square  yards  of  rugs  made,  which  makes  the 
totiil  carpets  and  rugs  manufactured,  as  reported  at  the 
Twelfth  Census,  75.551,861  .square  yards.     There  has 


WOOL. 


107 


been  M  very  great  increase  in  the  production  of  rug.s. 
In  ISKO  the  value  of  all  rug.s,  not  including  the  Smyrna 
carpets,  was  $2,628,781;  in  1900  it  had  increased  to 
$5,948,898,  a  gain  of  $3,320,117.  The  total  value 
was  nearly  one-eighth  of  the  total  value  of  the  products 
of  the  carpet  mills,  and  indicates  the  greati}'  increased 
use  of  rugs  for  floor  coverings.  In  1890  the  value  of 
rugs  manufactured  was  less  than  one-fourteenth  part  of 
the  total  viilue  of  the  carpet-mill  productions. 

The  following  are  the  statistics  of  the  rug  manufac- 
ture, the  value  being  given  for  both  1890  and  1900.  In 
1890  rugs  were  reported  in  number  of  pieces,  but  in 
1900  the  report  was  made  in  square  yards. 

COMPARATIVE  STATEMENT  OF  RUGS  MANUFACTURED, 
1900  AND  1890. 


Total: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Tapestry: 

Square  yards 

Value.." 

Wilton: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Moquette  and  Axminstet. 

Square  yards 

Value 

Ingrain: 

Square  yards 

Value 

Smyrna  rugs: 

Square  yards 

Value 

other  rugs: 

Square  yards 

Value 


1900 


1890 


8  984, 194 
K,94b  «98 

11,566,303 
82, 628, 781 

\!  ,lf)0 

S9,000 

:i39,7S4 
8545,  %7 

'  40,  644 
887.7D'2 

327,. WS 
S342, 2fi2 

>  60, 000 
866. 000 

393,417 
8168,324 

16,278 
834,262 

2,793,472 
82,491,911 

11,429,536 
82,367,000 

5,111,173 
82,391,434 

1 28,  845 
873,817 

1  Quantities  in  1890  are  all  by  numbers  o/  pieces  instead  of  square  yards. 

The  change  in  fashion  for  floor  coverings  is  well 
illustrated  by  the  change  in  the  character  of  the  carpets 
manufactured.  In  the  tapestry  Brussels  the  production 
has  fallen  off  8,359,029  yards,  but  in  the  tapestry  velvets 
it  has  increased  3,22'±,<32H  yards.  The  production  of 
bodv  Brussels  carpets  has  been  reduced  5,860,357  3'ards, 
but  the  Wiltons,  Axminster,  and  Moquette  have  in- 
creased 6,882,578  yards.  In  the  cut  pile  carpets  there 
also  is  a  change,  the  Moquette,  which  in  1890  was  an 
exceedingly  popular  carpet,  has  fallen  off  50  per  cent 
in  quantity  of  product  wliile  the  Axminsters  have  in- 
creased from  379,3-11  to  5,074,961  yards.  The  Wiltons 
also  have  become  popular,  and  the  manufacture  has 
grown  from  a  small  beginning  in  1880  to  1.030,101 
yards  in  1890,  to  4,782,835  yards  in  1900.  The  favor 
in  which  the  various  velvet  or  cut  pile  carpets  are  held 
and  the  fashion  for  hard-wood  floors,  for  which  ingrain 
carpets  and  art  squares  form  a  suitable  covering,  ac- 
counts to  a  great  extent  for  the  reduction  in  the  quan- 
tity of  tapestry  and  tiody  Brussels  carpets,  as  compared 
with  the  previous  census. 

The  location  of  the  industry  was  the  same  in  1900  as 
in  1890.  principally  in  the  states  of  Pennsylviinia.  New 
Yoi  k.  Massachusetts,  and  New  Jersey,  which  ranked  in 
amount  of  capital  employed  and  value  of  products  in  the 
order  named.  There  were  important  factories  in  other 
states,   especially  in  Connecticut;   but  as   these   states 


have  only  one  or  two  establishments  each,  their  statistics 
are  not  separately  stated.  Pennsylvania  was  the  chief 
seat  of  the  industry,  centered  in  Philadelphia  and  its 
suljurbs,  employing  about  three-eighths  of  the  capital 
invested  and  producing  nearlv  one-half  of  the  total  value 
of  carpets  and  rugs  manufactured.  Out  of  4,693  ingrain 
looms  engaged,  3,737  were  in  this  state,  which  also  pos- 
se.s.sed  537  of  the  1,831  tapestry  Brussels  and  tapestiy 
velvet  looms  in  the  country,  and  1,220,  or  more  than 
half,  of  the  Sm3'rna  looms.  New  York  had  1,057  of  the 
tapestry  looms  and  Massachu.setts  217.  Of  the  1,812 
Bi'ussels,  Wilton,  and  similar  looms  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  the  highest  grades  of  carpets,  Massachusetts 
possessed  752,  New  York  542,  and  Pennsylvania  267. 
In  the  manufacture  of  Smyrna  carpets  and  rugs  New 
Jersey  was  ne.xt  to  Pennsylvania,  having  794  looms,  and 
was  followed  by  New  York  with  295  looms.  New  York 
and  Massachusetts,  therefore,  were  the  great  producers 
of  the  higher  grades  of  carpets,  while  Pennsj'lvania  and 
New  Jersey  were  the  homes  of  the  more  common  ingrain 
carpet  and  the  art  squares  as  well  as  the  Smyrna  rug. 
The  imports  of  carpets  and  rugs  for  the  tiscal  j-ear 
1900  amounted  to  only  820,731  square  j'ards,  having  a 
foreign  value  of  $2,555,620.  Of  these  importations, 
640,111  square  yards  were  rugs  of  high  quality,  either 
Aubusson,  Axminster,  or  rugs  of  similar  character,  or 
the  oriental  rugs,  all  articles  of  luxury,  and  were  valued 
at  $2,329,106  abroad.  The  American  carpet  manufac- 
turers, it  is  evident,  have  complete  control  of  the  home 
market,  and  are  able  to  supply  all  the  needs  of  the 
American  people. 


CLASS    IV. 


-FELT    GOODS. 


The  following  table  presents  a  summary  of  the  felt- 
goods  industry  for  the  census  years  1880,  1890,  and 
1900,  with  per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade: 

Table  IS.— FELT  GOODS:  COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1880 
TO  1900,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH 
DECADE. 


DATE  OF   CENSUS. 


PER  CENT  OF 
INCREASE. 


1H«0 


1S90 


ISSO 


1S90 

to 
1900 


Number  of  establishments. . . 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc., 

number 

Sfi  laries, 

Wage-earners,  average  num- 
ber   

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over.. 

Wages : 

Women,  16yearsandover 

Wages i 

Children,  under  15  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 

Number  of  spindles 

Number  of  looms 


36 

87,125,276  I 

136  j 
8231,065  ! 

2,688 

81,024,835 

1,957 

8820,637 

658 

8191,090 

73 

813, 108 

8356, 164 

S3, 801,  028 

86,461,691 

24,286 

281 


34 
84,460,621 

'124 
1 $157, 916 

2,142 

8883,380 

1,474 

8721,796 

506 

8134, 273 

162 

827, 311 

8232, 871 

82,809,937 

81,654,768 

13,829 

210 


26 
81,958,251 


1,521 

8139, 760 

1,203 

C=) 

233 

C=) 

88 

82,530,710 
83,619,652 


5.9 
59.7 


16.  S 

25.5 
16.0 
32.8 
13.7 
30.0 
42.3 
a.W.9 
».V.'.  0 
52.9 
35.3 
38.8 
75.6 
35.3 


1880 

to 

1890 


30.8 
127.8 


40.6 
100.9 
22.5 


117.2 

"si.'i 


11.0 
28.6 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members  and  their  salaries;  number  only 
reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table. 

2  Not  reported  separately. 
'  Decrease. 

*  .N'ot  reported. 


lO.S 


MANUFACTURES. 


Ill  mitube.r  of  est!x])lishmonts  its  fjfrowth  in  tho  last 
definlc  lias  })een  sniuii.  hut  in  otiier  respects  its  devel- 
opment has  been  large.  The  capital  increased  59.7  per 
cent,  the  cost  of  materials  used  35.3  per  cent,  and  the 
valiK!  of  products  3S.S  per  cent.  The  principal  products 
were  felt  cloths,  boot  and  shoe  linings,  upholstery  felts, 
trimmings  and  lining  felts,  felt  skirts,  and  endless  belts 
for  paper-nuikiiig  machines.  Many  of  the  productions 
of  the  felt  manufacture  can  not  be  measured  in  yards, 
but  can  be  reported  only  in  pieces  or  pounds.  One- 
third  in  value  of  the  products  of  these  mills  in  1900 
was  of  this  class,  comprising  slippers  and  shoes,  pol- 
ishing felts  and  wheels,  piano  keys,  and  an  endless  va- 
riety of  other  goods.  The  quantity  of  felt  cloths  man- 
ufactured in  1900  was  about  the  same  as  in  1890,  but  in 
boot  and  shoe  linings  the  quantity  was  only  1,052,538 
square  yards,  about  half  of  the  product  of  1890.  End- 
less belts  for  printing  machines  increased  from  216,982 
to  1,114,357  square  yards,  while  trimmings  and  lining 
felts  increased  from  1,176,114  square  yards  in  1890  to 
2,469,830  in  1900. 

CLASS   T. — WOOL    HATS. 

The  wool-hat  manufacture  is  properh^  a  part  of  the 
felt  industry,  the  hats  being  made  by  a  process  of  felt- 
ing, and  are  thus  distinguished  from  the  ordinarj-  prod- 
ucts of  the  loom.  The  process  of  wool-hat  making  is 
very  simple  and  yet  very  ingenious.  The  wool,  as  it 
comes  from  the  card  in  a  continuous  lap,  is  wound  upon 
a  machine  consisting  of  two  cones  placed  base  to  base 
and  revolving  upon  an  axis  placed  parallel  to  the  end 
of  the  card.  The  double  cone  is  so  rotated  that  the 
contintious  lap  of  wool  is  wound  in  a  zigzag  manner, 
crossing  and  recrossing  from  end  to  end.  When  a 
sufficient  quantit}'  of  Avool  has  been  received,  the  ma- 
chine is  stopped,  the  double  cone  of  wool  is  divided  in 
the  center,  the  two  resulting  hat  bodies  removed  for 
felting,  and  the  process  repeated.  From  the  time  the 
hat  leaves  the  cone  until  it  is  ready  for  the  market  each 
hat  is  the  subject  of  individual  treatment,  and  it  is  only 
by  the  subdivision  of  the  various  processes  of  felting, 
dyeing,  stiffening,  blocking,  finishing,  and  trimming, 
and  the  distribution  of  the  work  among  many  hands, 
that  it  is  possible  for  the  comparatively  few  hat  fac- 
tories to  supply  the  demand.  As  is  stated  elsewhere 
in  this  report,  the  fur-hat  manufacture  has  interfered 
very  seriouslj-  with  the  manufacture  of  wool  hats.. 

The  following  table  shows  the  statistics  of  the  wool- 


hat  manufacture  at  the  censuses  of  1880,  1890,  and 
19<in.  with  per  cent  of  increase  for  each  decade: 

Table  19.— WOOL  HATS:  COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1880 
TO  1900,  WITH  I'KK  CENT  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH 
DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments  . . 

Capital 

Salaried  oflicials, clerks,  etc., 

number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  num- 
ber   

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over.. 

Wages 

Women,  16yearsandover 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years. 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


DATE  OF  CENStJS. 


1900 


24 
82,050,802 

57 
866,766 

2,108 

8937,855 

1,358 

$727,263 

651 

$195, 995 

99 

$1-1,607 

$185,644 

$2,042,202 

$3,591,940 


1890 


18S0 


32 
81,142,224 

292 
2 $113, 968 

3,600 

81,249,976 

2, 220 

$980,030 

1, 121 

$251,661 

159 

$18, 285 

$249,568 

82,802,041 

$5,329,921 


43 
$3,615,830 


5,470 

81,893,215 

3,222 

m 

1,459 

m 

789 

$4,785,774 
88,516,569 


PER  CENT  OF 
INCREASE. 


1890 

to 
1900 


■25.0 
150.5 

138.0 
■41.4 

139.8 
125.0 
138.8 
1 25. 8 
141.9 
122.1 
137.7 
120.1 
125.6 
127.1 
132.6 


1880 

to 
1890 


125.6 
14.6 


136.0 
134.0 
131.1 


123.2 
'l79.'8 


141.4 
137.4 


1  Decrease. 

-  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries:   number  only 
reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table. 
Not  reported  separately. 
^Nut  repiirted. 

Making  no  reference  to  the  condition  of  the  industry 
in  1880,  it  will  be  seen  that  since  1890  the  number  of 
establishments  has  fallen  off  35  per  cent,  the  capital  50.5 
per  cent,  the  cost  of  materials  used  27.1  per  cent,  and 
the  value  of  products  82.6  per  cent.  In  all  the  various 
items  of  expense  there  has  been  a  similar  reduction. 
There  has  not,  however,  been  so  large  a  decrease  in  the 
wool-hat  industry  as  the  items  named  would  seem  to 
indicate.  In  1890,  972,375  dozen  wool  hats  were  manu- 
factured, valued  at  ^,611,851;  in  1900  the  number  of 
dozens  is  811,425,  valued  at  $3,161,361,  so  that  a  very 
considerable  part  of  the  loss  is  attributable  to  reduced 
value  per  unit  of  quantity. 

The  wool-hat  manufacture  is  so  closely  allied  to  the 
manufacture  of  fur  hats  that  it  was  thought  best  to 
secure  the  returns  of  the  latter  industry  in  connec- 
tion with  those  of  the  wool  manufacture.  The  reports, 
however,  are  tabulated  separately,  and  are  not  included 
in  anj'  of  the  tables  pertaining  to  that  industry.  The 
detailed  statistics  for  the  fur-hat  manufacture  will  be 
found  in  Table  40,  which  follows  the  general  tables 
belonging  to  the  other  industry.  A  brief  history,  with 
a  general  statement  of  the  process  of  manufacture  and 
the  progress  of  the  industry,  is  presented  in  connection 
with  the  report  on  wool  hats. 


THE  FUR  HAT  MANUFACTURE. 


Until  the  census  of  1900  no  attempt  was  made  to 
obtain  a  separate  statement  of  the  stati.stics  for  the  fur- 
hat  manufacture.  Thej'  had  been  included  with  those 
of  hats  and  caps,  not  including  wool  hats.  In  1890  the 
value  of  all  hats  and  caps  reported,  except  wool  hats, 
was  $37,311,599,  the  production  of  which  gave  employ- 


ment to  25,931  wage-earners,  receiving  $12,650,917  in 
wages.  Capital  amounting  to  $13,724,002  was  invested 
in  the  business,  and  the  material  consumed  was  valued 
at  $16,160,802.  The  capital  employed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  all  these  classes  of  head  coverings  Avas 
$3,000,000  less  in  1890  than  was  invested  in  the  fur-hat 


WOOL. 


109 


manufacture  alone  in  I'JOI*.  The  cost  of  materials  used 
in  1900  was  within  $3,000,000  of  the  cost  shown  for  the 
hat  and  caj)  industry  in  IS'.M),  and  the  value  of  i)roducts 
was  not  quite  !?iO, 000,000  less  than  the  total  for  hats 
and  caps,  except  wool  hats,  for  1890.  The  following  is 
a  summary  of  the  statistics  of  the  fur-hat  industrj^  for 
1900: 

Table  30.— FUR  HATS:   SUMMARY  FOR  1900. 

Nuuiter  of  establishments 171 

Capital $16,  701, 308 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 726 

Salaries $94:^,  998 

Wage-earners,  average  number 18,  880 

Total  wages $9, 119, 264 

Men,  16  years  and  over 13, 187 

Wages $7,  231, 777 

Women,  16  years  and  over 5, 436 

Wages $1,  840, 4.54 

Children,  under  16  years 257 

Wages $47, 033 

Miscellaneous  expenses $1, 416,  737 

Cost  of  materials  used $13, 513, 668 

Value  of  products $27, 811, 187 

The  total  immber  of  establishments  engaged  in  the 
industrj'  was  171,  located  59  in  New  Jersey,  58  in 
Connecticut,  20  in  Pennsylvania,  15  in  New  York,  11  in 
Massachusetts,  and  8  in  other  states.  The  capital  em- 
ployed was  distributed  in  the  various  states  as  follows: 
Penns3'lvania,  $5,72(5,259;  Connecticut,  $3,197,551;  New 
York,  $3,050,381;  New  Jersey,  $2,932,311;  Massachu- 
setts, $1,467,700:  all  others.  $327,100.  In  number  of 
wage-earners  the  order  was:  Connecticut,  New  Jersey, 
New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Massachusetts.  In  amount 
of  wages  New  Jersej^  led,  and  Connecticut,  New  York, 
Penn.sylvania,  and  Massachusetts  followed  in  the  order 
named.  New  Jersey  reported  the  uuuuifacture  of 
590,939  dozen  fur  hats,  valued  at  $6,773,-t02;  Connect- 
icut, 497,683  dozens,  valued  at  $6,543,736;  New  York, 
226,061  dozens,  valued  at  $5,052,570;  Pennsylvania, 
280,880  dozens,  valued  at  $4,203,169;  Massachusetts, 
227,032  dozens,  valued  at  $2,244,941;  and  all  otherstates, 
59,777  dozens,  valued  at  $567,688.  The  total  nimiber 
of  dozens  made  was  1,882,372,  and  the  value  $25,385,506. 
The  average  value  per  dozen  was  within  a  fraction  of 
$13.50,  but,  as  the  preceding  statements  show,  there  is 
a  wide  range  in  value.  The  New  York  manufacture 
shows  the  highest  average  value,  $22.35,  and  Massachu- 
setts the  lowest,  $9.88. 

The  material  from  which  fur  hats  are  made  is  the 
fur  of  the  rabbit,  coney,  and  nutria,  and  is  mostly 
imported,  sometimes  on  the  skin,  but  more  often 
cut.  There  are  some  large  fur-cutting  establishments 
in  the  United  States,  and  some  of  the  most  important 
fur-hat  factories  cut  their  own  fur.  The  finest  fur 
comes  from  Germany,  where  it  is  cut  from  skins 
brought  thither  from  various  places.  After  the  skins 
have   been   properly   opened   and  stretched,  and   the 


hairs  removed  by  pulling,  they  arc  subjected  to  a 
process  called  "  carroting."  an  application  of  mercury 
and  nitric  acid,  which  causes  the  fur  fibers  to  hold 
together.  The  separation  of  the  fur  from  the  skin  is 
accomplished  by  cutting  the  skin  into  shreds,  bj^  means 
of  rapidly  revolving  shear  blades,  fixed  just  i)elow  a 
table,  but  so  adjusted  that  as  the  .skin  passes  under  a 
roller  or  guide  fixed  above  the  shear  blade,  the  skin  is 
cut  into  shreds  and  drops  beneath  the  machine.  The 
fur,  without  the  apparent  displacement  of  a  fiber, 
passes  on  to  the  other  side  of  the  roller,  whence  it  is 
removed  and  packed  away  until  required. 

Until  1846  the  making  of  fur  hats  was  carried  on  en- 
tirely by  hand.  In  1835  a  machine  for  stifl'ening  hat 
bodies  by  immersing  them  in  solutions  of  diffei-ent 
strength  and  afterwards  pressing  them  between  rollers 
was  patented  by  Henry  Blynn,  of  Newark,  N.  J.  In 
1837  Thomas  Blanchard  patented  a  process  of  forming 
bats  for  fur  hats  by  means  of  a  rapidly  rotating  picker 
brush,  which  disintegrated  the  materials  and  threw 
them  upon  an  endless  apron  or  band  of  fine  wire  cloth 
by  means  of  a  current  of  air,  produced  by  an  exhaust- 
ing fan  beneath  the  apron.  The  thin,  narrow  ribbon 
or  web  thus  formed  was  wound  upon  a  double  cone  of 
a  size  to  form  two  hat  bodies.  The  machine  was  not 
successful  in  practice. 

The  first  process  in  manufacturing  hats  is  the  mix- 
ing of  various  kinds  or  qualities  of  fur  to  produce  the 
quality  of  bat  wanted,  which  is  done  by  a  machine 
called  a  "devil,"  in  which  the  fibers  are  pulled  apart 
and  thoroughly  mingled.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  blow- 
ing machine,  where  it  is  kept  constantly  agitated  in  a 
light  cixrrent  of  air.  The  matted  pieces,  if  any,  and 
such  pieces  of  skin  as  there  may  be  with  fur  attached, 
together  with  the  hair  and  dirt  thrown  out  from  the 
fine  fur.  drop  through  a  set  of  sieves  which  separate 
the  valuable  pieces  of  fur  for  further  treatment.  The 
blowing  process  continues  until  the  fur  is  perfectly  free 
from  all  extraneous  matter,  when  it  leaves  the  machine 
in  a  lap,  fine  and  soft,  but  so  light  and  filmy  that  it 
hardly  bears  the  touch. 

The  hat-forming  process  comes  next  in  order.  The 
fur  as  it  come.s  from  the  blower  is  weighed  out  into 
boxes,  each  containing  a  sufficient  quantity  for  one  hat, 
according  to  the  weight  and  (juality  of  hat  to  be  made, 
the  usual  range  being  from  two  to  six  ounces  per  hat. 
These  boxes  of  fur  are  conveyed  to  a  machine,  called  a 
"•former,"  which  consists  of  a  revolving  cone,  made  of 
brass  or  copper  of  suitable  size  for  the  hat  body. 
This  cone  is  pierced  with  innumerable  small  holes, 
through  which  a  current  of  air  is  drawn  by  means  of 
an  exhausting  fan. 

There  is  also  an  arrangement  by  which  minute  jets 
of  hot  water  are  thrown  upon  the  newly  formed  hat  body 
to  give  it  a  sufficient  consistencv  to  permit  its  removal 
from  the  cone. 


110 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tho  process  is  as  follows:  Tht'  fui'  is  fed  throu<rh  a 
tube  to  a  revolving  ovlindei'  wiiich  thoroughly  iiiiciis 
and  distributes  the  fur;  at  the  same  time  the  former 
is  set  in  motion  and  the  curreiit  of  air  produced  by 
the  fan  draws  th(^  fur  into  the  machine  and  spreads  it 
evenly  over  the  surface  of  the  cone,  which  during  the 
operation  is  inclosed  in  a  tight  liox.  When  the  fur  is 
properly  distributed  the  ()ox  is  opened  and  the  jets  of 
water  are  thrown  upon  the  fur.  and  the  emliryo  hat, 
upon  which  a  cloth  has  been  spread  for  its  protection, 
is  removed  by  hand.  The  whole  operation  takes  but  two 
or  three  minutes.  It  is  then  rolled  and  pressed,  first  by 
hand,  when  in  its  more  delicate  condition,  and  after- 
wards by  machinei-y,  to  felt  it  and  reduce  it  to  its  proper 
proportions.  In  the  meantime  it  has  been  sized  to  add 
to  its  strength  and  durability.  The  hat  now  receives  an 
application  of  shellac  dissolved  in  alcohol  to  stiiien  it. 
A  much  stronger  solution  is  required  for  a  "derby  "  than 
for  a  soft  hat.  Thus  far  the  hat  has  retained  its 
conical  form.  The  next  process  gives  it  a  shape  in 
which  it  is  recognizable  as  a  hat.  It  consists  of  press- 
ing it  in  a  mold,  composed  of  a  block  and  a  matrix, 
which  shapes  both  the  crown  and  the  V)rim.  The  next 
step  is  that  of  dyeing,  in  which  the  rough  hat  receives 
its  final  color.  Blocking  comes  next,  which  fixes  the 
hat  in  the  form  desired,  the  pj-evious  jDressing  having 
only  shaped  it.  Pouncing,  which  is  a  process  of  sand- 
papering to  remove  inequalities,  follows,  and  is  accom- 
plished by  placing  the  hat  on  a  rapidlv  revolving  block, 
a  device  of  Mr.  John  T.  A\'aring.  in  1853,  and  rubbing 
the  surface  with  fine  emery  paper;  at  the  same  time  any 
hairs  that  may  have  been  left  in  the  fur  are  removed  or 
cut  off  and  a  slight  nap  is  raised,  which  is  ironed  so  that 
it  all  lies  in  one  direction.  The  trimmings — that  is,  the 
sweat  band,  the  lining  and  the  ribbon  and  binding — are 
now  attached,  and  the  hat  is  again  blocked  and  the  rim 
given  its  shape.  Formerly  all  of  this  work  was  done 
by  hand,  beginning  with  the  process  of  ''blowing,''  bj- 
which  the  same  result  was  obtained  that  is  now  reached 
by  the  blower.  The  inventions  of  Thomas  Blanchard, 
H.  A.  Wells,  and  John  T.  Wai'ing,  with  minor  modifi- 
cations and  improvements,  are  the  foundation  of  the 
machine  manufacture  of  fur  hats. 

The  history  of  the  fur  hat  manufacture  has  never 
been  adequately  presented.  Special  efl'ort  has  been 
made  at  this  time  to  prepare  such  a  statement  as  the 
importance  of  the  subject  demands,  but  the  only  sources 
of  information  which  have  been  found  are  Bishop's 
'■  History  of  Amei-ican  Manufactures,"  and  the  ''Re- 
port on  ^lanufactiires  for  the  Eighth  Census."'  The 
industry  in  the  United  States  dates  back  to  the  very 
early  days  of  the  colonies.  In  1662  the  assembly  of 
Virginia  enacted  a  number  of  laws  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  manufactures.  Among  other  premiums  offered 
was  one  of  10  pounds  of  tobacco  for  every  good  wool  or 
fur  hat  made  within  the  colony.  In  1675  laws  were 
passed  prohil)iting  the  exportation  of  raccoon  furs  from 


the  provinces.  In  1731  Jeremiah  Dunbar,  surveyor- 
general  of  His  ^Majesty's  woods,  reported  respecting  the 
manufacture  of  hats;  that  it  was  with  the  greatest  diffi- 
culty they  were  able  to  procure  true  information 
of  the  trade  and  manufactures  of  New  England.  The 
company  of  felt  makers  in  London  petitioned  Parlia- 
ment in  17.S1  to  prohibit  the  importation  of  hats  from 
the  American  colonies.  A  special  conmiittee,  to  which 
the  petition  was  referred,  reported  that  in  New  York 
and  New  England  beaver  hats  were  manufactured  to  the 
estimated  number  of  10,000  yearly.  There  were  16 
hatters  in  Boston,  one  of  whom  furnished  40  hats 
weekly. 

The  British  Board  of  Trade,  in  their  report  in  1732, 
made  in  pursuance  of  an  incjuiry  "with  respect  to  laws 
made,  manufactures  set  up.  or  trade  carried  on  detri- 
mental to  the  trade,  navigation,  or  manufactures  of 
Great  Britain,"  found  that  "great  quantities  of  hats  are 
made  in  New  England."  and  that  "great  quantities  of 
these  hats  are  exported  to  Spam,  Portugal,  and  our 
West  India  Islands."  In  consecjuence  of  this  evidence, 
an  act  was  passed  that  "no  hats  or  felts,  dyed  or  im- 
dyed,  finished  or  unfinished,  should  be  put  on  board  any 
vessel  for  anyplace  within  an}-  of  the  British  plantations, 
nor  be  laden  upon  any  horse,  or  other  carriage,  to  the  in- 
tent to  be  exported  from  thence  to  any  other  plantation, 
or  to  anv  other  place  whatever."  By  the  same  law  no 
person  was-  allowed  to  make  hats  unless  he  had  served  an 
apprenticeship  of  seven  years,  and  no  negro  was  per- 
mitted to  work  at  the  business.  In  1753,  a  prize  of  40 
shillings  was  offered  in  Delaware  for  the  neatest  and  best 
hat  manufactured  in  the  lower  counties.  In  1767  there 
was  a  very  considerable  hat  manufacture  in  Carolina,  and 
a  profitable  export  trade  was  carried  on  with  the  Spanish 
Islands.  In  Danbury,  Conn.,  Zadoc  Benedict  began  hat 
making  in  17S0  with  one  journej-man  and  two  appren- 
tices. He  made  three  hats  a  day.  In  1786  the  hat  manu- 
facture had  become  an  extensive  industry  in  Peuns}'!- 
vania,  where  it  was  estimated  that  upward  of  160,000 
wool  hats  and  over  54,000  fur  hats  were  made  annuallv. 
There  were  6S  hatters  in  Philadelphia  and  vicinity  who 
made  31,627  fur  hats  and  7,000  wool  hats  yearly.  There 
were  in  addition  247  hatters  in  other  parts  of  the  state. 
In  1791,  lii,000  fur  and  wool  hats  were  made  yearly  l)y 
17  hatters  in  New  London  county,  Conn.  In  1810  the 
whole  number  of  fur  hats  reported  from  13  states  and 
territories  was  457.666:  of  these  45.369  were  made  in 
Pennsj'lvania.  Massachusetts  produced  142,645  fur 
hats,  valued  at  ^15.167.  Maryland  reported  a  pro- 
duction in  106  hat  establishments,  chiefly  fur.  to  the 
value  of  §304,472,  and  New  Jersey  made,  chiefly  at 
Newark  and  vicinity,  31.524  fur  hats,  valued  at  §94.052. 

The  Seci'etary  of  the  Treasury  reported  to  Congress 
in  April,  1810,  that  hats  were  annually  imported  to  the 
value  of  §350.000.  and  American  made  hats  to  the  value 
of  §100.000  were  exported.     In  1831  a  convention  of 


WOOL. 


Ill 


maiiiifiictiii-crs  cstimiitod  the  production  at  $15,O00.0UO 
annually,  giving  emplo_vment  to  15,000  men  and  boys 
and  3,0(f()  women.  The  census  of  184(1  shows  the  value 
of  hats  and  caps;  manufactured  in  the  United  States  to 
have  been  $8,704,342.  Both  of  those  last  statements 
include  hats  and  caps  of  all  kinds. 

At  the  census  of  1850,  1.04s  establishments  were  re- 
ported, with  a  capital  of  $4,427,798,  engaged  in  the 


manufacture  of  hats  and  caps.  In  18(10  there  wero  only 
622  establishments,  with  a  capital  of  $4,126,572.  Thoj'^ 
consumed,  with  other  materials,  8,039,7(10  pounds  of 
wool  and  1,658,520  pounds  of  fur,  and  manufactured, 
among  other  things,  2,449,672  fur  hats,  2,462,974  felt 
or  .soft  hats,  and  6,191,482  wool  hats.  In  the  three 
following  census  reports  the  number  of  hats  produced 
in  the  hat  and  cap  factories  was  not  given. 


WOOL  SCOURING  AND  WOOL  PULLING. 


The  tendency  of  manufacturing  industries  to  locate 
near  the  sources  of  supply,  which  led  to  the  building  up 
of  the  little  mills  of  a  century  ago  in  the  heart  of  the 
wool-growing  districts,  together  with  the  tendency  to 
the  specialization  and  subdivision  of  industries,  is  no- 
where more  noticeable  in  the  wool  manufacture  than  in 
the  establishment  of  wool-scouring  establishments.  In 
1890  they  were  so  few  in  number  that  the  te.xtile  direc- 
tories did  not  report  them,  nor  did  the  census  reports 
on  the  wool  manufacture  of  that  year  take  cognizance 
of  them.  At  the  present  time  25  wool-scouring  estab- 
lishments, employing  a  capital  of  $1,061,123,  are  in 
operation.  Their  location  is  determined  by  prox- 
imity to  either  the  producer  or  the  consumer.  Wool 
as  it  comes  from  the  sheep  is  in  an  exceedingl}-  dirty 
condition  and  full  of  grease  or  suint.  The  processes 
of  cleansing  preparatory  to  working  consist  of  open- 
ing, burring,  washing,  scouring  and  dusting,  and  in 
these  operations  the  wool,  according  to  its  condition, 
loses  from  20  to  85  per  cent  in  weight.  The  average 
loss  in  weight  in  domestic  wools  resulting  from  clean- 
sing is  about  60  per  cent.  The  cost  of  freight  on  this 
extraneous  matter  is  an  important  consideration  to 
the  manufacturers,  as  on  the  above  basis  of  shrinkage 
it  adds  one  and  one-half  times  to  the  cost  of  transporta- 
tion. The  advantage,  therefore,  of  scouring  plants  at 
a  shipping  center  in  a  wool-growing  district  is  apparent. 
Six  such  establishments  are  now  located  in  New  Mexico, 
Coloi'ado,  and  Missouri. 

On  the  other  hand  a  vast  amount  of  wool  must  always 
come  to  market  in  its  original  condition,  and  as  all 
transactions  in  wool  are  based  upon  the  .scoured  pound, 
it  is  of  advantage  to  the  manufacturer  and  dealer  to  have 
scouring  plants  at  hand  where  sample  bags  may  be  .sent 
to  be  tested  by  an  independent  authority,  who  can, 
when  required,  handle  large  quantities  expeditiousl}% 
and 'at  the  .same  time  cleanse  the  wool  more  uniformly 
than  might  be  done  by  a  mill  on  its  own  premises.  In 
Massachusetts,  Connecticut,  and  New  Jersej^  9  scouring 
plants  have  been  established. 

There  are  10  other  plants,  located  6  in  California,  2  in 
Illinois,  1  in  Oregon,  and  1  in  Pennsylvania.  The  Cali- 
fornia and  Oregon  plants  might  perhaps  })e  classed  with 
the  first  gi'oup,  l)ut  in  both  of  these  states  there  is  a  well- 
established  and  growing  manufacturing  industry  to 
which  these  plants  may  well  be  useful.     The  2  in  Illinois 


might  perhaps  be  assigned  to  the  second  group,  as  Illi- 
nois has  an  important  manufacturing  interest.  It  has 
also  a  large  wool-growing  interest,  and  has,  like  Cali- 
forniaand  Oregon,  been  placed  in  the  third  group,  where 
both  growth  and  manufacture  of  wool  are  influential. 

The  report  of  the  scouring  mills.  Table  21,  shows  that 
they  operated  upon  70,878,519  pounds  of  wool.  The 
establishments  which  report  their  business  for  both  the 
census  }-ear  and  the  one  preceding  show  a  satisfactory 
growth  of  9.8  per  cent  in  value  of  products,  which  in 
this  case  represents  the  amount  received  for  work  done. 

Table  21 — WOOL   SCOURING:  SUMMARY  FOR   1900. 

Number  of  establishments 25 

Capital $1, 061, 123 

Salaried  oiEcials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 45 

Salaries $72,  Oil 

Wage-earners,  average  number 720 

Total  wages $.338, 606 

Men,  16  years  and  over 646 

Wages $316, 924 

Women,  16  years  and  over 74 

AVages $21, 682 

Miscellaneous  expenses $102, 0.39 

Cost  of  materials  used $193,  826 

Amount  received  for  work  done $889, 809 

Number  of  pounds  of  wool  scoured 70,  878,  519 

The  industry  of  wool  pulling  is  closely  connected  with 
wool  production  and  also  with  the  wool  manufacture. 
An  attempt  was  made  at  the  census  of  190()  in  (connec- 
tion with  the  wool  manufacturing  inquiry  to  obtain 
these  statistics. 

The  result,  however,  has  not  been  satisfactory,  but  the 
figures  received  are  given  in  Table  22,  not  as  a  complete 
statement,  but  as  a  foundation  for  future  comparison. 

Table  22.— WOOL  PULLING:  SUMMARY  FOR  1900. 

Number  of  establishments 34 

Capital $944,715 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 35 

Salaries $35,  422 

A\'age-earners,  average  number 475 

Total  wages $247, 950 

ilen,  16  years  and  over 475 

Wages $247,950 

Miscellaneous  expenses $47, 395 

Cost  of  materials  used $53, 975 

Amount  received  for  work  done $531,  287 

Number  of  pounds  of  wool  pulled 6,  111,  298 


112 


MANUFACTURES. 


The  total  (luantity  of  pulled  wool  reported  was 
6,111,298  pounds  produced  in  31:  establishments,  to 
which  should  lie  added  13,182,146  pounds,  rei)orted  in 
connection  with  several  slaughterhouses.  This  makes 
a  product  of  1U,293,444.  but  it  is  evidently  much  less 
than  the  actual  product.  The  value  reported  Is  the 
amount  received  for,  or  the  cost  of  pulling,  rather  than 
the  value  of  the  wool  pulled.     The  accepted  commer- 


cial estimate  of  the  pulled-wool  production  of  the  year 
1900  was  28,663,806  pounds'  as  pulled,  equal  to 
17,198,283  pounds  of  clean  wool.  The  chief  statistician 
for  agriculture  estimates  the  production  of  pulled  wool 
in  the  census  year  at  33,000,000  pounds  on  the  skin. 

'  Bulletin  of  the  National  Association  of  Wool  Manufacturers, 
Vol.  XXX,  page  350. 


SHODDY  MANUFACTURE. 


Shoddy  is  the  fiber  recovered  from  woolen,  worsted,  or 
mixed  rags  known  under  the  generic  name  of  ''shoddy," 
and  is  subdivided  into  shoddy,  muugo,  flocks,  and  wool 
extract.  The  first  two  of  these  are  recovered  by  pow- 
erful machines  known  as  •"pickers"  and  "garnets." 
The  picker  tears  or  picks  the  rags  to  pieces  and  grad- 
ually reduces  the  material  to  its  original  liber,  while 
the  garnet  opens  and  prepares  it  for  carding.  Flocks 
are  produced  generally  from  bits  or  pieces  of  all-wool 
rags  which  are  cut  very  short  into  a  sort  of  powder  ))y 
passing  between  the  blades  of  a  machine  called  a  flock 
cutter.  They  are  also  resultants  of  the  gigging  and 
sheai'ing  processes  of  the  cloth  manufacture.  Flocks 
are  used  mo.stly  to  add  weight  and  substance  to  woolen 
cloths,  on  the  surface  of  which  they  are  spread  during 
the  process  of  fulling,  which  incorporates  them  into  the 
tiber  by  felting.  Thej'  are  also  used  to  produce  a  wool ly 
face  on  waterproof  garments  and  for  saddlery,  etc. 

Wool  extract  is  produced  from  rags  of  mixed  fiber 
by  a  process  of  carbonization  which  destroys  all   vege- 


table material  and  leaves  onlj^  the  wool,  which  is  then 
reduced  to  fiber  by  mechanical  operations.  Besides  the 
shoddy  made  by  the  shoddy  mills,  a  large  amount  is 
made  in  woolen  mills  from  rags  and  clippings  for  use  in 
the  same  establishments. 

Shoddy  is  used  principally  in  the  wool  manufacture 
in  the  production  of  low-grade  satinets  and  other  heavy 
cotton-warp  goods;  the  poorer  qualities  are  used  in 
backings  for  overcoatings  and  cloakings  and  to  give 
weight  and  substance  to  various  kinds  of  woolen 
goods.  It  is  also  used  to  .some  extent  in  the  produc- 
tion of  merino  yarns  for  the  hosiery  manufacture.  The 
duty  on  foreign  rags  and  other  shoddy  materials  has 
generally  been  placed  so  high  as  to  practically'  prevent 
their  importation,  and  the  American  manufacturer  of 
shoddy  is  confined  to  the  home  suppl\'. 

The  following  table  contains  a  comparative  statement 
of  the  principal  statistics  of  the  shoddy  manufacture,  by 
decades,  since  1860: 


Table  33.— SHODDY:  COMPAR.\TIVE  SUMMARY,  1860  TO  1900,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  otRcials,  clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages , 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


DATE  OF  CEK3US. 


1900 


105 

85,272,929 

139 

$166, 704 

1,926 

$748, 948 

1,425 

S620, 444 

480 

8124,004 

21 

S4,500 

$293,149 

$4, 875, 192 

86, 730, 974 


1890 


1880 


$3, 754, 
] 

'8149, 
2 

8707| 
1 

8534 

$168, 

$4, 

$238, 

86, 003, 

87, 887, 


$1,165,100 

m 

1,282 
$400,326 
695 
(') 

496 
P) 
91 

m 
(«) 

83. 366, 650 
$4,989,615 


1S70 


56 
$815,950 

m 
(») 

632 

$198, 372 

419 

m 

171 
(•') 

42 

(=) 

(*) 

$1,098,603 

$1,768,592 


1860 


30 
$123,500 

m 
m 

290 

$54,124 

141 


') 


149 


$227,925 
$402, 590 


PEE  CENT  OF  INCBEISE. 


1890  to 
1900 


11. 

40. 
»3. 
11. 

210. 

5. 

13. 

16. 

=44. 

=  26. 

=  44. 

4. 

23. 

n8. 

=  14, 


1880  to 
1890 


28.8 
222.2 


68.1 
76.6 
80.1 


74.4 
258.2' 


78.3 

58.1 


1870  to  1860  to 
1880  {    1870 


30.4 
42.8 


102.8 
101.8 
65.9 


190.1 

iis."?' 


206.4 

182.1 


86.7 
560.7 


117.9 
266.5 
197.2 


14.8 


'  Includes  proprietors  and  lirm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.    (See  Table  39.) 

2  Decrease. 

3  Not  reported  separately. 
*Not  reported. 


It  appears  that  the  number  of  mills  has  increased 
11.7  per  cent  during  the  decade,  the  capital  40.5  per 
cent,  and  miscellaneous  expenses  23.1  per  cent.  The 
value  of  products  has  decreased  14.7  per  cent,  and  the 
cost  of  materials  used,  18.8  per  cent.  The  number  of 
wage-earners  decreased  10.6  per  cent,  but  the  amount 
paid  in  wages  increased  .5.9  per  cent.  There  was  an 
increase  in  the  number  of  men  employed,  and  a  larger 


relative  increase  in  their  earnings.  The  numbers  of 
women  and  children  emploj^ed  have  been  reduced  in 
about  equal  ratio,  14.5  and  44.7  per  cent.  The  indus- 
trj'  was  carried  on  in  105  establishments,  employing 
$5,272,929  capital  and  producing  goods  to  the  value  of 
$6,730,974. 

While  the  industry  was  carried  on  in  19  states,  it 
was  located  principally  as  shown  in  the  following  state- 


WOOL. 


113 


mcut,  the  statc.-i  being  arranged   in  order  of  value  of 
products: 


Num- 
ber. 

Capital. 

Value  of 
products. 

United  States 

77 

83,862,174 

$4,969,163 

Ohio                    

6 
26 
29 
7 
9 

1,397,746 
972,070 
769, 294 
494,074 
228,930 

1,478,712 

1,448,886 

988  189 

537,733 
515  t>13 

Rhode  IslaDd 

These  5  states  embraced  73.3  per  cent  of  the  number  of 
establishments,  employed  73.2  per  cent  of  the  capital, 
and  produced  73. S  per  cent  of  the  total  value  of  pro- 
ducts.    Of  these  states,  Ohio  reports  the  greatest  value 


of  products  and  of  capital,  and  the  smallest  number  of 
establishments.  This  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that 
the  largest  shoddy  manufactory  in  the  United  States 
was  located  there.  The  products  of  I'ennsylvajiia  were 
nearly  equal  to  those  of  Ohio,  but  the  capitid  was  only 
two-thirds  as  great  and  the  number  of  establishments 
more  than  four  times  the  number  reported  in  Ohio. 
Ma.ssachu.setts  had  3  more  establishments  than  Pennsyl- 
vania, with  products  of  less  than  two-thirds  the  value. 
Connecticut  :md  Rhode  Island  together  were  not  quite 
equal  in  capital  employed  to  Ma.s.sachusetts,  which  they 
slightly  exceeded  in  valuta  of  pi'oducts. 

Table  24  is  a  comparative  summary  for  the  shoddy 
manufacture,  by  states,  1880,  1890  and  1900. 


Table  2-4.— SHODDY:   COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1880  TO  1900. 


Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OF- 

FICIAL8, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 

AVERAGE  NUMBER 

3F  WAGE-EARNERS  AND  TOTAL   WAGES. 

Miscel- 
laneous 
expenses. 

Cost  of 

materials 

used. 

STATES 

Total. 

Men, 

and 

16  years 
over. 

Women,  16 
years  and  over. 
« 

Children,  under 
16  years. 

Value  of 
products. 

Num- 
ber. 

Salaries. 

Aver- 
age 

num- 
ber. 

Wages. 

Aver- 
age 

num- 
ber. 

Wages. 

Aver- 
age 

num- 
ber. 

Wages. 

Aver- 
age 

num- 
ber. 

Wages. 

United  Slates  . 

1900 
1890 
1880 

105 
94 
73 

»5, 272, 929 
3,  754,  063 
1, 165. 100 

139 
'144 

8166. 704 
1149,483 

1,926 
2,155 
1,282 

$748,948 
707,099 
400,326 

1.425 

1.252 

695 

$620,444 
534,250 

480 
865 
496 

8124, 0O4 
168,549 

21 
38 
91 

$4,600 
4,300 

$293, 149 
238,094 

$4,875,192 
6,003,035 
3,366,650 

$6,730,974 
7, 887, 000 
4,989,615 

nooo 

M890 

nsso 

1900 
1S90 
1S80 

•1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

*1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 

M890 

1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

3 

10,225 

8 

3,940 

8 

3,940 

586 

9,156 

17, 678 

Connecticut 

7 
7 
8 

494, 074 
395,336 
86,000 

8 
14 

8,191 
13,271 

118 
166 
139 

44, 163 
72,545 
35,345 

101 
142 
93 

40,461 
66, 185 

7 
16 
38 

1,402 
4,600 

10 
8 
8 

2,300 
1,760 

33,601 
26,099 

362,438 
442,852 
261,200 

537,733 
648,060 
347,500 

Illinois 

3 

2 

29 
29 
30 

110,037 
22,000 

769,294 
902,850 
460,500 

4 

6,500 

iio 

31 

307 
406 
471 

29,754 
12,300 

127,715 
152,613 
173,439 

37 
16 

260 
300 
334 

19.228 

73 
12 

44 
106 
105 

10,526 

11,610 

103,722 
74,500 

685,123 
1,170,868 
1,308,715 

182,110 
100,000 

988, 189 
1,614,459 

3 
3 

Massachusetts 

30 

29 

34,336 
28,135 

114,492 
121,984 

12,794 
30,629 

429 

.50,927 
62,687 

32 

2,305,985 

3 
3 

4 
4 
1 

6 
3 

1 

26 
18 
11 

9 
10 
6 

3 

23,000 
17,300 

538,936 
193,225 
35,000 

1, 397,  746 
744,530 
260,000 

972, 070 
640, 382 
186,000 

228, 930 
194,250 
49,600 

245,982 

1 

1,033 

24 

23 

156 
117 
30 

474 
684 
246 

368 
302 
143 

131 
132 
83 

93 

10,650 
5,700 

56,027 
35,605 
25,000 

164,579 
162,600 
40,000 

148,240 
116,459 
47, 441 

56,397 
51,516 
18,590 

45,345 

24 
13 

128 
64 
10 

229 
179 
30 

285 

211 

90 

127 
129 
51 

67 

10,650 

1,795 

86,816 
38,900 

526, 492 
301,113 
80,734 

1,077,529 

1,100,480 

576,000 

1,069,944 

1,205,258 

510, 977 

399, 126 

1,165,235 

137,054 

268,712 

111,848 

8 

28 

49 

5 

245 
485 
216 

80 
91 
40 

4 
3 
26 

26 

2 

49,600 
685,048 

New  Jersey 

15 
10 

30,100 
8,150 

49, 445 
26,480 

6,582 
8,225 

25,798 
20,150 

4 
15 

900 

389.640 
137,  .500 

Ohio 

35 
12 

55,225 
20,100 

102,736 
80,260 

61,843 
81,340 

69,259 
28,266 

1  478  712 

20 

1,000 

1.377,500 
700,000 

Pennsylvania 

34 
37 

24.746 
34,716 

126,604 
92,183 

21,064 
24,276 

3 

672 

57,728 
50,305 

1,448,886 
1,633,770 

13 

655, 895 

Rhode  Island 

3 

14 

3,400 
16, 498 

55,096 
50,580 

1,301 
936 

23,828 
22,278 

516, 643 

1,350,792 

6 

195,045 

Vermont 

1 

1.000 

38,142 

7,203 

7,609 

382,852 

2 

9 

12 

7 

9 
5 
'2 

15,000 

329,861 
482,520 
32,700 

285,811 
67,933 
11,000 

15 

167 
173 
78 

104 
41 
23 

3,896 

65,739 
60,061 
33,610 

36,803 
15, 296 
5,005 

6 

137 
140 
43 

83 

26 

9 



9 

28 
27 
32 

18 
15 
5 

37,000 

310,783 
343,012 
321,220 

16S,  889 
83,679 
21,350 

56,000 

443,529 

471,478 
407, 590 

New  York 

19 

6.130 
17,300 

58,695 
54,654 

6,781 
4,767 

2 
6 
3 

i 

263 
610 

18,122 
11,640 

All  other  states*  .. 

6 

4 

3,  .576 
3,780 

30,833 
12,046 

5,034 
3,250 

936 

6,  .591 
3,264 

232,704 
107,343 

9 

34,500 

1  Includes  proprietors  and  liriu  members,  with  their  salaries:  number  only  reported  in  1900.  but  not  included  in  this  table. 

*  Not  reported  separately. 
'Not  reported. 

*  Included  in  "all  other  states." 
^No  establishments  reported. 

•Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:    1900— Georgia,  1:  Illinois,  2;  Indiana,  1;  Maine,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2; 
Maine,  2;  Vermont,  1;  Wisconsin,  1.    1880— Maine,  1;  Maryland,  1. 


(See  Table  39.) 


Wisconsin,  1.     1890— California,  1; 


MON- 


-TEXT- 


-8 


114 


MANUFACTURES. 


The  production  of  the  shoddy  mills  in  1900  includes 
the  wool  extrsu't,  noils,  and  various  wastes  with  the 
quantity  of  shoddy,  and  toj^ethev  amount  to  48,018,427 
pounds,  valued  at  §r).32y,6ii6.  In  1890  the  similar 
products  of  the  shoddy  mills  aggregated  45. 0.55. 452 
pounds,  with  a  value  of  $7,333,465.     The  quantity  in 


1900  had  increased  6.6  per  cent,  but  the  value  showed 
a  decrease  of  13.7  per  cent.  The  decrease  in  the  in- 
dustry, therefore,  is  apparent  rather  than  real,  being 
not  in  the  quantity  produced,  hut  in  it.-<  value,  owing  to 
reduced  prices. 


HOSIERY   AND  KNIT  GOODS. 


In  preceding  census  reports  the  statistics  of  the  man- 
ufacture of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  were  included  with 
those  of  the  wool  manufacture.  At  the  census  of  1890 
these  statistics  were  also  made  the  subject  of  a  separate 
tabulation,  because  it  was  found  that  while  in  its  early 
history  wool  was  almost  the  oidy  material  used,  in  later 
years  other  fibers  were  becoming  continually  more 
prominent  in  the  manufacture,  and  that  the  time  was 


at  hand  when  the  predominance  of  these  would  cause  it 
to  be  more  closely  allied  to  some  other  branch  of  the 
textile  industry.  The  statistics  for  1900  are  presented 
separately  in  the  general  tables. 

The  progress  of  the  industry  is  shown  in  the  follow- 
ing comparative  summary  of  its  principal  statistics  for 
each  census,  beginning  with  that  of  1850: 


Table  25.— HOSIERY  AND  KXIT  GOODS:    COMPARATIVE   SUMMARY,  18.50   TO  1900,  WITH   PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE 

FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men.  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

children,  under  16  years 

Wages ." 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


DATE   OF  CENSUS. 


1900 


$24 


m, 

SI, 

S6, 
S51, 
895, 


921 

860,604 

2,809 

124,798 

8.S,387 
358, 627 

21,154 
890,728 

53,665 
243, 808 
8,668 
224, 091 
599,865 
071,8.59 
482, 566 


1890 


796 

J60,  607, 738 

11,621 

181,685.153 

69,588 

816, 578, 119 

14,846 

86.041,200 

40, 826 

810,006.070 

3,916 

8-i30, 849 

83. 627, 245 

$3.5,861,585 

$67,241,013 


1880 


359 
$15, 579, 591 

28,885 

86,701,475 

7,517 

(=) 

17,707 

(=) 
3,661 

m 

$15, 210. 951 
$29, 167. 227 


1870 


248 
$10,931,260 

P. 
14,788 
84,429,085 
4.252 

m 

7,991 
2,545 


89,835,823 
$18,411,564 


1860 


197 
$4, 035, 510 


9,103 

$1,661,972 

2,780 

(=) 

6,323 


$3, 202, 317 

$7, 280, 606 


1860 


85 
$544,735 

2,325 

$360,336 

835 

1,490 


1^ 


(?) 

8415,113 

81,028,102 


PER   CENT  OF  INCREASE. 


1890      1880      1870 

to  to  to 

1900      1890      1880 


15.7 
61.8 
73.3 
85.4 
39.9 
46.9 
42.5 
47.2 
31.2 
42.4 
121.3 
130.6 
82.0 
42.4 
42.0 


121.7 
224.8 


106.3 

147.4 

97.5 


135.8 
130.5 


44.8 
42.5 


95.3 
51.3 
76.8 


121.6 
'43.9 


54.6 
58.4 


1860 

to 
1870 


25.9 
170.9 


62.5 
166.5 
52.9 


207.1 
152. 9 


1850 

to 
1860 


131.8 
640.8 


291.5 
361.2 
232. 9 


671.4 
608.2 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table. 

2  Not  reported  separately, 
s  Not  reported. 


[See  Table  41.] 


In  1850  there  were  only  85  establishments  reported. 
They  had  a  capital  of  $554,735,  and  produced  goods  to 
the  value  of  $1,028,102.  They  employed  2,325  wage- 
earners,  of  whom  835  wei-e  men  and  1,490  women;  the 
children  were  not  separately'  reported.  The  wage-earn- 
ers received  $360,336  in  wages,  and  the  cost  of  materi- 
als used  was  $415,113.  These  are  all  the  statistics  that 
were  given  in  the  census  report  for  that  year.  The 
growth  of  the  industiy  from  these  small  beginnings  to 
its  condition  in  1900  is  almost  marvelous.  In  fifty 
years  the  85  establishments  have  increased  to  921.  The 
$1,028,102  shown  as  the  value  of  products  in  1850.  in- 
creased to  $95,482,566  in  1900;  the  capital  had  increased 
150  times,  amounting  to  $81,860,604.  The  wage-earners 
numbered  83,387,  21.154  of  whom  were  men,  53.565 
women,  and  8,668  children.  Their  wages  amounted  to 
$24  358,627,  24  times  the  total  value  of  the  product  in 


1850.  The  cost  of  materials  used  has  not  increased  in 
the  same  proportion  as  has  the  capital,  but  in  1900  it 
was  $51,071,859,  which  is  over  120  times  the  value  of 
the  materials  used  in  1850.  The  growth  in  value  of 
product  during  the  fifty  years  has  been  in  the  following 
proportions: 

From  1850  to  1860,  7  times. 

From  1860  to  1870.  2i  times. 

From  1870  to  1880.  H  times. 

From  1880  to  1890.  2i  times. 

From  1890  to  1900,  li  times  the  product  of  the 
earlier  year. 

ESTABLISHMENTS. 

Of  the  921  establishments  i-eported,  588  were  in  the 
Middle  states  and  133  in  the  New  England  states.  In 
point  of   numbers  Pennsylvania  was   first,  wiUi   319; 


WOOL. 


115 


New  York  second,  with  242;  Massachusetts  had  only  54; 
Connecticut,  25;  New  Hampshire,  22;  New  Jersey,  16; 
Khodc  Island,  15;  Vermont.  14;  Delaware,  7;  Mary- 
land. 4;  and  Maine,  3. 

CAPITAL. 

The  capital  employed  in  1S5(>  amounted  to  only 
$544,735.  It  1860  it  had  increased  to  $4,035,510.  In 
litOO  it  was  more  than  20  times  the  amount  employed 
in  1X60,  being  $81,860,604,  and  150  times  the  amount  em- 
ployed in  1850.  The  Middle  states  naturally  .showed  the 
largest  amount  of  capital,  the  total  being  $48,531,122, 
of  which  New  York  had  $30,203,640  and  Pennsyl- 
vania $15,743,981.  In  New  England  the  total  capital 
employed  was  $19,014,126,  or  only  alK)ut  $3,300,000 
more  than  in  the  state  of  Pennsylvania. 

Thecapital  employed  in  Mas.sachusetts  was $6,288,672. 
Connecticut  had  $6,149,338;  New  Hampshire,  $2,525,- 
286;  Rhode  Island,  $2,452,044.  Neither  of  the  other 
states  in  these  groups  employed  a  capital  amounting  to 
$2,000,000. 

The  following  statement  shows  the  statistics  of  capital 
for  1890  and  1900: 


CAPITAL. 

Per  cent 
of 

moo 

1890 

increase. 

Acerecate 

881,860,604 

850,607,738 

61  8 

36.960.919 

23,574,761 

3, 367, 762 

9,  .'>86, 726 

24,036,431 

44,899,688 

2,271,466 
6,194,088 
15,109,207 

27,032,977 

Buildings 

54  3 

,*I(ichinery,  todl.s,  an' 
Casli  on  Iiand,  unsettled  1 

implements... 
-•dgeruceounts, 

59.1 

MACHINERY. 

The  first  report  of  machinerj'  of  this  industry  was 
made  at  the  census  of  1870,  at  which  time  there  were 
519  sets  of  cards,  5,625  knitting  machines,  1,668  sewing 
machines,  438  looms,  and  148,385  spindles.  In  1900  the 
industrj'  employed  1,161  sets  of  woolen  cards,  distrib- 
uted according  to  the  following  statement,  which  shows 
not  only  the  number  of  .sets  of  cards  in  each  state  but 
also  the  width  of  the  cards  reported.  The  horsepower 
increased  in  the  decade  20,149,  or  58.6  per  cent.  The 
actual  increase  was  next  in  rank  to  that  of  the  worsted 
manufacture. 


Table  26.— NUMBER  AND  WIDTH  OF  CARDS,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Actual  num- 
ber of  sets 
in  each 
state. 

Number 

reporting 

width. 

NUMBER  OF  CARDS  OF  EACH   WIDTH   REPORTED. 

STATES. 

80 

inches. 

32 

inches. 

40 

inches. 

42 

inches. 

44 

inches. 

48 
inches. 

60 

inches. 

64 

inches. 

United  States 

1,161 

1,161 

3 

4 

432 

15 

7 

569 

110 

21 

134 

7 
27 
'l 
39 

3 

28 

74 

26 

674 

5 
10 
31 
10 
40 
34 

'> 

16 

134  1 

•7 

27 

"l 

39 
3 

28 

74 

26 

674 

5 

10 

31 

10 

40 

.l! 

16 

4 

47 

81 

1 

21 

2 
6 

1 

Illinois 

5 

1 
6 

Idaho 

30 
3 

18 

28 

26 

264 

5 

9 

12 

10 

26 

30 

3 

MinncsotA 

M  iehigan 

5 
46 

5 

New  Hampshire 

New  York 

3 

308 

14 

7 

57 

21 

Ohio 

1 

19 

Rhode  Island 

11 

3 

4 
2 

8 

Virginia 

West  Virginia 

Wisconsin 

2 

1 

5 

The  industry  employed  also  15'  combing  machines 
and  521,871  spindles — of  which  290.366  were  woolen, 
14,064  worsted,  and  205,742  cotton  .spinning  spindles 
and  3,613  woolen,  7,130  worsted,  and  956  cotton  doub- 
ling spindles — 133  looms,  89,047  knitting  machines  of 
ail  kinds,  and  24,535  sewing  machines.  The  15  comb- 
ing machines  were  in  New  England,  9  being  in  Con- 
necticut, 3  in  Rhode  Island,  and  3  in  Massachusetts. 
Of  the  cards,  297  were  in  New  England,  678  in  the  Mid- 

1  See  Table  42. 


die  states,  44  in  the  Southern,  and  91  in  the  West- 
ern states.  New  York  reported  the  largest  number  of 
cards.  674;  Connecticut  was  next  with  134;  New  Hamp- 
shire had  74;  Vermont,  40;  Massachusetts,  39;  Virginia, 
34;  Pennsylvania,  31;  Michigan,  28;  Indiana,  27;  New 
Jersey,  26;  and  Wisconsin  16.  None  of  the  other  states 
reported  more  than  12  sets,  and  some  did  not  report  any. 
The  following  table  shows  the  number  of  mills  em- 
ploying sets  of  woolen  cards  according  to  number  of 
sets  in  1890  and  1900: 


116  MAXIFACTURES. 

T.\BLE  27.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS:  NUMBER  OF  MILLS  ACCORDING  TO  SETS  OF  CARDS:  1890  AND  1900. 


GEOGRAPHICAI.   DIVISIONS. 

Year. 

Number 

reporting 

sets  of 

cards. 

Iset. 

2  sets. 

3  sets. 

4  st't.f. 

5  sets. 

6  sets. 

7  sets. 

8  .sets. 

9  sets. 

10  to  15 
sets. 

15  to  20 
sets. 

20  sets 
and 
over. 

1900 
1890 

182 
188 

9 
17 

22 
25 

14 
26 

23 
26 

17 
13 

24 
20 

11 
19 

17 
8 

11 

7 

28 
21 

4 
3 

2 
3 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

42 
59 

105 
108 

10 
2 

25 
19 

2 

8 

1 
3 

1 

5 
6 

4 

9 

11 
11 

2 
1 

5 
4 

2 

7 

8 
15 

4 
6 

14 
16 

1 

3 

5 

12 

5 
6 

12 
13 

5 
1 

2 

4 
5 

7 
14 

7 
5 

8 
3 

S 

1 

8 
6 

7 
6 

19 
18 

4 
3 

1 

1 

1 

2 

4 
4 

4 
4 

2 

2 

SPINDLES. 

Of  the  total  number  of  spindle.^  in  the  United  States 
in  1900, 233,253  were  in  New  England.  108,938  in  Ma.ssa- 
chusetts,  79,536  in  Connecticut,  26,867  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, 11,076  in  Vermont,  and  6,836  in  Rhode  Island. 
In  the  Middle  states  there  were  231,594  spindles.  New 
York  had  191,582;  Pennsylvania,  31,604;  New  Jerse^v, 
8,408;  none  were  reported  in  Delaware  and  Maryland. 
In  the  Southern  group  24.126  spindles  were  reported, 
half  of  which,  12,036,  were  in  Virginia;  South  Carolina 
had  5,620,  North  Carolina  2,860,  and  the  remaining 
3,610  were  distributed  in  various  states.  The  Western 
group  reported  32,898  spindles,  of  which  8,694  were 
in  Wisconsin,  8,500  in  Indiana,  6,686  in  Michigan, 
3,920  in  Ohio,  3,480  in  Illinois,  and  1.418  in  Minnesota. 
The  other  Western  states  reported  oulj'  2(>0  spindles 
in  all. 

The  total  number  of  spindles  in  the  United  States  en- 
gaged in  this  indastry  is  as  follows: 

COMPARATIVE  STATEMENT  OF  SPINDLES,  1S90  AND  1900. 


WOOLEN. 

WORSTED. 

COTTON. 

1900 

1890 

1900 

1890 

1900 

1890 

Hosiery  and    knit    goods 
mills 

293,979 

312,756 

21,194 

6,767 

206,698 

69,830 

The  knitting  machines  were  distributed  as  follows: 
32,860  in  New  England,  40,407  in  the  Middle  states,  5,519 


in  the  Southern  states,  and  10,261  in  the  Western  states. 
Of  those  in  New  England,  New  Hampshire  had  23,174; 
Mas.sachusetts,  5,003;  Connecticut,  2,662;  Rhode 
Island,  1,262;  Vermont,  6.38;  Maine,  126.  In  the  IVIid- 
dle  states  the,y  were  distributed  thus:  Pennsylvania, 
26,120;  New  York,  11.666;  New  Jersey,  1,335;  Dela- 
ware, 674;  and  Maryland,  612.  The  Southern  states 
had  a  total  of  5,519  machines,  of  which  1,354  were  in 
North  Carolina,  1,078  in  Georgia,  993  in  Virginia,  785 
in  South  Carolina,  581  in  Tennessee,  81  in  Louisiana, 
and  the  rest  were  distributed  in  various  .states.  In  the 
Western  group  of  states  there  were  10,261,  of  which 
Wisconsin  had  2,832;  Michigan,  2,828;  Illlinois,  1,975; 
Ohio,  1,147;  Indiana,  633,  and  Minnesota,  476.  The 
remaining  number  weredistriliuted  in  various  states. 

A  comparison  of  the  number  of  knitting  machines 
with  the  product  produces  some  surprising  results. 
Some  of  the  states,  for  in.stance,  possessing  the  larger 
number  of  machines,  produced  a  comparatively  small 
amount  of  goods,  and  other  states,  with  a  smaller  num- 
ber of  machines,  were  the  great  producers  of  hosiery 
and  knit  goods.  This  condition  of  affairs  is  accounted 
for  by  the  fact  that  in  the  states  posse.ssing  the  greater 
number  of  machines  there  were  a  large  number  of 
small  hand  machines,  capable  of  onlj'  a  limited  pro- 
duction, but  in  other  states  the  machines  were  the  large 
circular  machines  or  cylinders,  operated  bj-  power,  and 
capable  of  an  immense  production. 

The  following  statement  shows  the  idle  capital  and 
machineiy  of  the  industiy: 


State.mext.— IDLE  CAPITAL  AND  MACHINERY,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

CAPITAL. 

MACHINERY. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Land. 

Buildings. 

Machinery, 

tools,  and 
imple- 
ments. 

Cash  and 
sundries. 

Sets  of 
cards. 

Spindles. 

Knitting 
machines. 

United  States 

36 

81,173,803 

$102,450 

$236,900 

$544,426 

$290,027 

55 

11,464 

1,173 

New  Yorlv 

10 
3 
3 
9 

11 

784,050 
84,900 
68,091 
61,843 

174,919 

81,500 
1,600 
1,300 
3,050 

15,000 

160,000 
13,700 
16,500 
13,700 
33,000 

363,300 
45,000 
30,000 
33,600 
72, 626 

179,250 
24,600 
20,291 
11,. 593 
54.293 

48 

7,880 

412 

North  Carolina 

149 

Ohio 

1 

304 

104 

Pennsylvania 

147 

All  01  her  states ' 

6 

3,280 

361 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut.  1;  Georgia,  1;  Illinois.  1;  Massachusetts,  2;  Mississippi,  l;  New  Jersey,  2;  South  Carolina,  1; 

irViscoD&in,  2. 


WOOL. 


11 


THE    INDUSTRY    BY    GEOGRAPHICAL    DIVISIONS. 

Tables  No.  41  iind  4'2  show  the  condition  and  growth 
of  tho  industiT  from  the  beginning  of  its  statistieiil 
record  in  1850  to  the  present  time,  not  only  in  the  whole 
country,  but  in  each  state  and  territory,  and  also  in  the 
several  states  grouped  according  to  their  geographical 
location. 

At  the  census  of  1850  the  products  were  reported 
without  any  indication  of  the  localities  in  which  the 
mills  were  situated.  It  was  not  until  1860  that  the 
reports  were  so  segregated  as  to  show  the  location  of 
the  industry.  At  that  time  the  total  value  of  products 
was  17,280,606,  of  which  $4,847,984  was  produced  in 
the  Middle  states  and  $2,374,242  in  New  England,  leav- 
ing only  $58,380  for  the  rest  of  the  countrj'.  The  value 
of  products  in  these  two  groups  of  states  was  $7,222,226. 
The  product  of  the  various  states  in  these  geographical 
divisions  was  as  follows,  in  oi'der  of  value  of  production: 

Pennsylvania $2, 114,  315 

New  York 1,  944,  090 

Connecticut 1 ,  383, 528 

New  Jersey 783, 456 

New  Hampshire 573,  794 

Massachusetts 314, 120 

Vermont  102, 800 

Maryland' 6,123 

In  1900  the  value  of  the  products  in  the  Middle  states 
was  $60,473,407,  and  in  New  England  $17,834,673,  a 
a  total  of  $78,308,080,  or  more  than  ten  times  the  pro- 
duction of  1860,  and  equal  to  more  than  82  per  cent  of 
the  total  value  of  these  goods  produced  in  the  United 
States.  The  standing  of  these  states  by  value  of  prod- 
ucts was  as  follows: 

New  York $35, 886, 048 

Pennsylvania 21,  896,  063 

Massachusetts 6, 620, 257 

Connecticut 4,  043,  977 

Rhode  Island 2,  713,  850 

New  Hampshire 2, 592,  829 

Vermont 1, 834, 685 

New  Jersey 1,  784, 148 

Maryland 514,  093 

Delaware 429, 055 

Maine 29,  075 

AVESTERN    STATES. 

The  states  grouped  together  as  Western  states,  which 
include  Ohio,  Michigan,  Indiana,  Wisconsin,  Illinois, 
and  all  the  remaining  states  west  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  excepting  Arkansas,  Louisiana,  and  Texas,  pos- 
sessed 129  establishments,  with  a  capital  of  $10,792,485. 
They  employed  11,061  wage-earners,  who  received 
$2.isS5,t)45  in  wages.  Of  these  wage-earners,  2.535 
are  men,  7,400  women,  and  1,126  childre'n.  The  ma- 
terials used  cost  $6,248,504,  and  the  goods  produced 

'  Maryland  is  in  the  tabulation  grouped  with  the  Middle  states. 


were  valued  at  $12,143,150.  It  is  only  in  Ohio  and 
Missouri  that  any  of  these  establishments  existed  prior 
to  1860.  At  the  census  of  1860  Ohio  reported  11  es- 
tablishments, with  a  capital  of  $10,900.  and  Missouri 
2  establishments,  with  a  capital  of  $11,000.  The  num- 
l)er  in  Ohio  has  since  grown  to  24,  with  a  capital  of 
$1,067,937.  In  1890  Missouri  had  7  factories,  with  a 
capital  of  $33,247.  These  have  since  been  reduciKl  to  2 
in  number,  and  their  statistics  are  not  separately 
reported.  Michigan,  the  knit-goods  industry  of  which 
first  appears  in  the  census  of  1.S80  with  11  estal)lishments, 
was  in  1900  the  most  important  of  the  Western  group, 
having  32  factories,  with  a  capital  of  $2,135,916,  em- 
ploying 2.509  wage-earners,  consuming  material  to  the 
value  of  $1,459,378,  and  producing  goods  valued  at 
$2,791,257.  Wisconsin  was  second,  with  27  establish- 
ments, a  capital  of  $2,558,299,  and  2,722  wage-earners, 
earning  $600,495.  The  cost  of  materials  used  was 
$1,176,146  and  the  value  of  products  $2,486,813.  Indi- 
ana, which  stood  sixth  in  number  of  establishments  and 
first  in  capital,  was  third  in  value  of  products.  This 
state  had  7  factories,  with  a  capital  of  $2,728,306.  and 
employed  2,016  wage-earners,  with  wages  amounting 
to  $703,129.  The  materials  used  cost  $1,200,483,  from 
which  goods  to  the  value  of  $2,424,304  were  produced. 
Illinois  was  next  in  rank,  with  14  establishments, 
$1,530,990  capital,  1,805  wage-earners,  $494,285  in 
wages  paid,  $1,261,242  expended  for  materials,  and 
products  valued  at  $2,145,429.  Ohio  had  24  establish- 
ments, with  a  capital  of  $1,067,937,  wage-earners  num- 
bering l,il3,  and  wages  paid  amounting  to  $354,369. 
The  cost  of  materials  was  $807,673,  and  the  products 
were  valued  at  $1,576,285.  None  of  the  other  states  in 
this  group  reported  products  valued  at  over  $500,000. 

SOUTHERN    STATES. 

In  this  group  of  states  the  industry  is  of  very  recent 
origin.  The  census  of  1860  showed  3  establishments 
in  Kentucky,  but  none  was  reported  after  that  until 
1880,  when  1  establishment  was  returned,  with  no  state- 
ment as  to  its  location.  At  the  census  of  1900  71  estab- 
lisliments  were  reported,  located  as  follows:  Twenty- 
four  in  North  Carolina,  16  in  Georgia,  15  in  Virginia, 
6  in  South  Cai'olina,  4  in  Tennessee,  2  in  West  Virginia, 
and  1  each  in  Alabama,  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  and 
Texas.  The  capital  employed  in  these  states  was 
$3,522,871,  the  number  of  wage-earners  6,137,  the  wages 
paid  $1,115,356,  the  cost  of  materials  $2,798,219,  and 
the  value  of  products  $5,031,336. 

MATEKIALS   USED. 

The  following  comparative  statement  shows  the 
quantity  of  materials  used,  both  in  1890  and  1900,  and 
indicates  thegrowth  in  favor  of  knitted  cotton  garments: 


118 


MANUFACTURES. 


COMPARATIVE   STATEMENT   OF   QUANTITY    AND   COST 
OF  MATERIALS  USED,  190l)-lS90. 


Total  cost 

Wool,  foreign  anti  domestic, 
chased: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Raw  cotton: 

Pounds 

Cost 


in  condition  pur- 


1900 


Mohair: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Woolen  yarn  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Worsted  yarn  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Merino  yarn  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost '. 

Cotton  yam  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Linen  yarn  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Silk  and  spun-silk  yarn  not  made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Yarn  of  jute,  ramie,  or  other  vegetable  fiber  not 
made  in  mill: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Shoddy,  purchased  and  made: 

Pounds 

Cost 

Waste  and  wool  noils: 

Pounds 

Cost 

All  Other  materials,  cost 


8.51,071,859 

17,9.53,907 
85.  ■262. 135 

49. 451. 301 
83,561.592 

631, 199 
844,9.53 

2,621.893 
81. 2.57,, 587 

5, 823. 215 
84.86.5,304 

1,981,484 
8642, 535 

131, 820, 06S 
822,204.918 

71,478 
853,588 

268, 247 
8946. 801 


44, 6S2 
$.57, 677 

3,  770, 626 
8488, 792 

5,276.4.54 
$1, 487, 907 
810.198,070 


1800 


835,861,685 


21, 639, 393 
88, 2,54, 418 


32,432,617 
83.712,215 


139 


6, 386, 370 
$3,791,497 

4, 146, 035 
$1,279,105 

(') 

32,248,849 
87, 588, 973 

301,696 
$65,335 

120, 341 
86l»,  316 


4, 735, 144 
8878, 948 

.5,503,286 
82,021,492 
$1, 669, 200 


1  None  reported. 

The  quantity  of  wool  used  has  decreased  3,685,486 
pounds.  The  quantity  of  woolen  yarn  also  has  been 
reduced,  but  the  quantitj-  of  wor.sted  yarn  has  increased. 
In  1890  no  separate  report  of  merino  yarns  used  was 
made.  In  1900  the  use  of  1,981.48-4  pounds  was  re- 
ported. The  consumption  of  woolen,  worsted,  and' 
merino  yarns  was  nearly  the  same  in  quantity  as  the 
consumption  of  woolen  and  worsted  yarns  in  1890. 
The  quantity  of  linen  yarn  has  been  reduced  from 
301,695  pounds  to  71,478  ppunds,  and  the  quantity-  of 
raw-silk  and  spun-silk  yarns  has  increased  from  120,341 
pounds  in  1890  to  268,247  pounds.  The  use  of  shoddy 
has  fallen  off  about  1,000.000  pounds,  while  the  quan- 
tity of  wool  waste  and  noil's  used  has  remained  about  the 
same.  The  use  of  cotton  and  cotton  yarns  has  increased 
greatlj',  and  in  consequence  the  whole  character  of  the 
industry  has  altered.  In  1890,  32,432,617  pounds  of 
cotton  and  32,248,849  pounds  of  cotton  yarn  were  used 
in  this  industry.  In  1900  the  demand  for  cotton  goods 
had  so  increased  that  44,451,301  pounds  of  raw  cotton 
and  131,820.068  pounds  of  cotton  yarn  were  necessary, 
which  would  require  approximately  160,000.000  pounds 
of  cotton  for  its  production,  making-  the  total  quantity 
of  cotton  used  in  this  manufacture  209,000,000  pounds, 
costing  $25,766,510,  compared  with  17,953,907  pounds 
of  wool  used,  which  cost  $5,262,135. 


DTE    STUFFS,  CHEMICALS,  ETC. 

The  cost  of  dyesturts,  chemicals,  etc.,  used  in  1900 
and  1890  was  as  follows: 


YEARS. 

Dyestuffs 

and 

chemicals, 

value. 

OIL. 

SOAP. 

Gallons. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

1900 

81,023,161 
564,053 

396,278 
628,504 

$91,315 
135,037 

5,903,857 
6,647,236 

$204  485 

1890    .  . 

212,844 

PRODUCTS. 

The  gross  value  of  pi'oducts  was  $95,482,566,  an  in- 
crease of  42  per  cent  over  1890.  when  the  value  amounted 
to  $67,241,013.  The  most  important  in  value  of  the.se 
manufactures  were  the  underwear,  shirts  and  drawers 
of  all  kinds,  valued  at  $45,157,549,  or  37  per  cent  more 
than  the  value  of  similar  goods  made  in  1890.  In  ad- 
dition to  the.se  was  the  value  of  union  or  combina- 
tion .suits  used  for  the  same  purposes,  amounting  to 
$3,691,847,  which  might  properly  be  included  with 
the  total  of  shirts  and  drawers.  The  next  in  impor- 
tance were  the  hose  and  half  hose,  the  value  of  which 
was  $27,672,013.  The  above  items  cover  all  but 
$19,000,000  of  the  total  value  of  products.  The  balance 
was  divided  among  the  less  important  items  of  manu- 
facture, the  largest  in  value  being  gloves  and  mittens, 
with  a  value  of  $4,244,046,  clo.sely  followed  by  cardigan 
jackets,  etc.,  with  a  value  of  $3,498,837.  The  gross 
value  of  products  of  the  hosiery  and  knit  goods  manu- 
facture was  $95,482,566.  The  value  of  products  twice 
reported '  was  $9,527,121,  which  being  subtracted  leaves 
$85,955,445,  as  the  net  value  of  the  ho.sierv  and  knit 
goods  productions.  The  following  table  contains  a 
comparative  summary  of  the  quantity  and  value  of 
products  at  the  censuses  of  1890  and  1900: 

Table  28.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS:  KIND,  QUAN- 
TITY AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS,  1890  AND  1900,  WITH 
PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE. 


CLASSES. 

1900 

1890 

Per  cent 
of  in- 
crease. 

Total 

$95,482,566 

$67,241,013 

42.0 

Woolen,  merino  and  cotton  half  hose: 

13, 249,  .558 
811,030,244 

16,641,769 
$16,203,372 

1.5,818,893 
$15, 157, 649 

71,038 
$248, 523 

1, 898,  ,587 
84,244,0)6 

7,078,505 
87,434,131 

10,062,886 
811,728,075 

6, 862, 157 
832,961,997 

25,072 
885,401 

896, 150 
81,935,080 

87.2 

Value 

48. 4 

Woolen,  merino  and  cotton  hose: 

65.4 

Value       

38  2 

Merino,  all-wool  and  cotton  shirts  and 
drawers: 

130.5 

Value 

37.0 

Leggings  and  gaitei-s: 

18.3.3 

Value 

191.0 

Gloves  and  mittens: 

Dozens 

lll.S 

Value 

119.3 

'  See  page  97. 


WOOT. 


119 


Ta)!i,e  28.— hosiery  AND  KNIT  GOODS:  KIND,  QUAN- 
TITY AND  VALL'E  OF  PRODUCTS,  1S90  AND  1900,  WITH 
PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE— Continued. 


CLASSES. 

1900 

1890 

Per  cent 
of  in- 
crease. 

Hoods,  scarfs,  nubias,  etc.: 

Dozens 

343,'429 
$1,002,392 

594, 090 
$3,498,837 

157.622 
8328, 720 

284, 685 
$951,0.52 

10,406,440 
82, 205, 003 

342,497 
$1,476,430 

361,478 
$3,676,248 

22,990 
$115, 467 

270,533 
$759,648 

7,596,711 
$1,088,558 

0.3 
'  32. 1 

Cardigiin  jackets,  etc.: 

64.4 

'2.2 

Knit  shawls; 

Do/.t-ns 

Value 

585.6 
184.7 

Faney  ^oods,  wristers,  etc.: 

5.2 

25.2 

Boot  and  shoe  linings: 

37.0 

Value  

102.6 

$81,869,738 

861,161,035 

33.8 

Jersev  doth: 

Yards                     .                              .  .  . 

4,488,911 
81,305,376 

3,065,0.57 
$2, 157, 692 

46.5 

'39.5 

All-wool  and  union  or  merino  yarns: 

83,827 

840,387 

51,202 
836,303 

2,419,282 
$122,100 

385,863 
831,267 

852,180 

$472, 703 

17,000 
$13,642 

500,000 
8150,000 

^8,866 

'90.2 

Value 

'91.5 

Worsted  yarns: 

201.2 

166.1 

Cotton  yam: 

383.9 

181.4 

Wool  rolls,  noils,  waste  and  all  other 
partly  manufactured  products: 

Value      

'19.5 

Total  value  of  all  partly  manufac- 
tured products 

$530,057 

8675,211 

'21.5 

All  other  product."?,^  value 

$8,503,4&1 
$273,931 

$3,184,950 
863,125 

167.0 

340.9 

'  Decrease. 
•  Not  reported. 

3 "All  other  products"  for  1900  includes  combination  suits  valued  at 
13,691,847.    No  combination  suits  were  exported  in  1890. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  itnit  goods,  valued  at  $31,919 
in  litOO  and  $84,13-4  in  l.s90,  were  made  in  woolen  milLs 
and  reported  with  the  products  of  the  wool  manufacture. 
This  table,  although  it  presents  a  comparison  of  the 
products  of  the  two  census  years,  does  not  show  the 
trend  toward  increased  production  of  cotton  fabrics. 
Examination  of  the  general  tables  for  the  hosiery  and 
knit-goods  industry  in  these  two  reports  develops  that 


the  manufacture  of  woolen  hosiery  has  fallen  oli  in 
quantity  over  41.3  per  cent,  and  that  woolen  underwear, 
including  coiiibination  suits,  has  not  varied  matei'ially. 
The  manufacture  of  merino  hosiery  has  increa.sed  72.3 
per  cent  and  merino  underwear  about  5.9  per  cent. 
The  manufacture  of  cotton  hosiery  and  underwear  has 
greatly  increased.  In  1890,  .5,341,(!28  dozens  half 
hose  were  made,  7,387,259  dozens  of  cotton  hose,  and 
3,246,590  dozens  shirts  and  drawers.  At  the  census 
of  1900,  reports  were  received  of  the  production  of 
11,352,081  dozens  cotton  half  hose,  15,028,173  dozens 
cotton  ho.se,  12,058,431  dozens  cotton  shirts  and  drawers, 
and  824,032  dozens  cotton  combination  suits. 

The  relative  value  of  the  production  of  the  wool, 
merino,  and  cotton  goods  of  these  kinds  at  the  two  cen- 
suses is  as  follows: 


1900 

1890 

$9,188,701 
16,471,880 
.50,306,145 

816,497  395 

Merino   .     .             

16  451  999 

19,174,809 

The  table  emphasizes  the  increased  use  of  cotton  in 
these  fabrics,  especially  when  the  lower  price  of  the 
fiber  is  considered  in  connection  with  the  remarkable 
increase  in  the  value  of  the  product. 

In  addition  to  the  goods  made  of  cotton  or  wool,  a 
very  considerable  quantity  of  silk  fabrics  were  made 
on  knitting  machines.  The  statistics  for  1900  show  the 
production  of  12.572  dozens  of  silk  or  silk-mixed  hosiery, 
valued  at  $186,413;  54,807  dozens  shirts  and  drawers, 
valued  at  $518,045,  and  12,728  dozens  of  combination 
suits,  valued  at  $116,286.  There  were  also  manufac- 
tured a  large  quantity  of  silk  gloves  and  mitts,  but  the 
census  schedules  did  not  provide  for  their  being  reported 
.separately  from  similar  goods  made  of  other  libers.  The 
expert  special  agent  in  charge  of  silk  manufactures 
estimates  the  value  of  these  goods  to  have  been  equal 
to  $1,000,000.  The  total  quantity  of  silk  and  spun-silk 
yarns  used  was  266,247  pounds,  costing  $946,801. 


CONCLUSION. 


The  progress  of  the  American  wool  manufacture  and 
connected  industries  during  the  decade  is  shown  by  this 
investigation  to  have  been  very  satisfactory. 

The  manufacture  shows  an  increase  in  value  of  prod- 
ucts of  9.88  per  cent  in  1900  as  compared  with  1890. 
The  increase  in  value  of  products  in  the  hosiery  and  knit 
goods  manufacture  was  42  per  cent. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  there  are  no  data  with  which 
a  comparison  of  the  wool  manufacture  of  the  United 
States  and  foreign  countries  can  be  made,  either  by 
value  of  products  or  materials  consumed.  The  princi- 
pal information  available  is  that  contained  in  the  annual 
wool  reports  of  Messrs.  Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.,  of 
London,  England,  which  contain  ver\'  full  .statistics  of 
the  wool  production  of  the  United  Kingdom,  and  its 


imports  and  exports  of  wool  compiled  from  the  Board 
of  Trade  returns.  They  also  contain  statements  of  the 
movement  of  wools  from  the  British  colonial  posses- 
sions to  the  continent  of  Europe  and  to  the  United 
States;  but  so  far  as  Europe  is  concerned,  these  state- 
ments are  not  sufficient  for  the  desired  purpose.  It  is 
only  po.ssible,  therefore,  to  compare  the  consumption 
of  wool  in  the  United  States  with  that  in  the  United 
Kingdom.  From  the  Helmuth  Schwartze  &  Co.  reports 
it  appears  that  the  quantity  of  wool  retained  for  con- 
sumption in  Great  Britain  in  1890  was  428,000,000 
pounds,  and  in  19(;>0,  502.000,000  pounds.  The  quan- 
tity left  for  consumption  can  not,  however,  be  safely 
assumed  to  represent  the  quantitj'  actually  consumed. 
The   statements,  as  made,  simply  give  the  difference 


120 


MANUFACTURES. 


between  the  sum  of  the  home  produotion  phis  the  im- 
ports and  the  exports.  The  (|u:iiitity  on  hand  at  the 
beginning  of  an^^  period  under  consideration  should  be 
added,  and  what  remains  at  the  close  deducted  from  the 
quantity  '"retained  for  consumption;"  this  will  give 
what  maj-  be  called  the  "takings"  of  wool  for  the 
period. 

But,  as  it  is  impossible  to  know  what  quantities  are  in 
the  hands  of  manufacturers  or  dealers  at  any  time,  to  as- 
certain as  nearly  as  possible  the  actual  consumption,  an 
avei'age  of  the  takings  for  two  periods  of  three  years 
each  in  the  United  Kingdom,  has  been  obtained.  For 
the  years  1898,  ISlty,  and  1900  the  average  takings  were 
506,000,000  pounds;  in  1888,  1889,  and  1890  they  were 
426,000,000  pounds;  these  quantities  may  be  considered 
as  representing  the  quantity  of  wool,  in  condition  pur- 
chased, consumed  in  the  English  wool  manufactories  in 
1900  and  in  1890.  The  increased  consumption  in  1900 
over  1890  was  80,000,000  pounds,  or  18.8  per  cent. 
The  consumption  in  the  United  States  in  1890  was 
351,158,020  pounds;  in  1900,  4'12,323,-110  pounds,  an 
increase  of  61,165,410  pounds,  or  17.4  per  cent.  The 
ratio  of  increase  in  quantitj-  of  wool  consumed  was, 
therefore,  very  nearly  the  same  in  both  countries. 
Together  in  1900  they  consumed  nearly  one-third  of 
the  world's  annual  wool  product.  Of  this  consumption 
the  United  States  used  45  per  cent  and  the  United 
Kingdom  55  per  cent.  There  is  this  important  differ- 
ence, however,  between  the  two:  the  wool  manufac- 
tures of  the  United  States  are  consumed  almost  entirely^ 
within  its  own  borders,  but  many  of  those  of  the  United 
Kingdom  are  exported.  The  manufactures  of  wool 
exported  from  the  United  Kingdom,  in  excess  of  the 
imports  in  1900,  amounted  to  £11,119,000,  equal  to 
^54,110,614.  This  sum  includes  the  value  of  tops, 
yarns,  and  all  other  products  of  the  wool  manufacture 
and  of  hosiery  and  small  wares. 

In  addition  to  the  wool  consumed  in  the  United  King- 
dom, a  large  ciuantitj'  of  shoddj'  of  all  kinds  is  used  for 
which  no  statistics  are  available.  This  is  mr-de  from 
rags  and  pieces  of  home  production  supplemented  by 
shoddy  produced  from  imported  rags.  The  imports  of 
woolen  rags  into  the  United  Kingdom  for  the  three 
years  1898,  1899,  and  1900  averaged  69.617,000  pounds. 
The  annual  consumption  of  shoddy  in  the  United  King- 
dom is  estimated  to  be  not  less  than  130,000,000  pounds. 

The  productions  of  the  American  looms  in  general 
compare  favorably  with  imported  fabrics.  The  impor- 
tations consist  principally  of  novelties  and  goods  of  high 
grade,  requii'ing  more  time  and  labor  for  their  fabrica- 
tion than  the  conditions  of  manufacturing  in  the  United 
Suites  permit  at  present. 

The  machinerj-  of  the  American  wool  manufacture  is 
equal  to  any  in  the  world  and  in  some  respects  superior. 
American  manufacturers  are  quick  to  adopt  any  mechan- 
ical device  which  will  increase  production  or  add  to  the 
perfection  of  their  fabrics,  and  American  ingenuity  is 


alwavs  ai  work  devising  improvements  to  existing  ma- 
chinery or  inventing  new  and  better  machines.  Some 
of  the  most  important  inventions  in  wool  manufactur- 
ing machinery  were  made  by  Americans,  of  which  a 
full  statement  is  to  be  found  in  the  report  of  wool  maim- 
factures  for  1890.'  Since  that  date  numerous  improve- 
ments have  been  made,  but  nothing  of  so  marked  a 
character  as  to  require  special  notice. 

The  facilities  for  textile  education  in  the  United 
States  are  much  greater  now  than  in  1890.  Then  only 
one  school  existed,  devoted  exclusively  to  that  purpose, 
the  Philadelphia  Textile  School  connected  with  the 
Pennsylvania  Museum  of  Fine  Arts.  The  School 
of  Design  connected  with  the  Massachusetts  Institute 
of  Technology  supplied  in  .some  degree  a  training 
similar  to  that  obtained  in  foreign  schools.  Much 
attention  has  been  directed  during  the  decade  to  the 
subject  of  textile  education,  especially  in  Massachusetts, 
and  in  addition  to  the  school  named,  that  state  now  has 
large  and  well  established  textile  schools  at  Lowell  and 
New  Bedford,  supported  partly  by  the  state  and  mu- 
nicipalities and  pai-tly  from  private  sources.  In  South 
Carolina  there  is  a  textile  department  in  the  South  Car- 
olina Agricultural  College  at  Clemson,  and  in  North 
Carolina  one  in  the  Agricultural  and  Mechanical  Insti- 
tute at  Raleigh.  A  school  known  as  the  French  Textile 
School  is  connected  with  the  Georgia  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology at  Atlanta,  and  there  is  a  textile  department 
in  the  Mississippi  Mechanical  College  at  Starkville. 
Besides  these  there  are  evening  schools  for  loom  fixers 
and  weavers  at  Lawrence  and  Fall  River,  Mass.,  and 
correspondence  schools  at  various  places  in  the  United 
States.  All  are  doing  good  work  in  training  the  textile 
workers  for  the  higher  branches  of  their  profession. 
The  results  of  this  technical  training  are  already  mani- 
fest in  the  more  artistic  styles  produced  and  in  the 
economies  of  manufacture  introduced  by  the  graduates 
of  these  schools. 

In  the  text  and  annexed  to  it  are  numerous  tabular 
statements  together  with  tables  numbered  1  to  28,  inclu- 
sive, illustrative  of  the  text.  In  addition  to  those  in 
the  text,  the  following  tables  are  pi'esented  containing 
the  statistics  for  all  branches  and  subdivisions  of  the 
wool  industry,  and  also  for  the  shoddy,  fur  hat.  and 
hosiery  and  knit  goods  manufactures.  In  the  consid- 
ei'ation  of  these  tables  reference  should  be  made  to  the 
text  of  this  report  and  to  the  other  tables  and  state- 
ments included  in  it. 

Particular  attention  is  invited  to  the  fact  that  these 
comparative  tables  include  the  results  of  widely  vaiy- 
ing  methods  of  inquiry,  so  that  a  careful  consideration 
of  the  explanatory  footnotes  is  essential  in  order  to 
avoid  erroneous  deductions. 

Table  29  comprises  all  the  items  of  the  inquiry  com- 
mon to  a  number  of  periods,  and  the  statistics  are  given 

'Eleventh  Census  of  the  United  States,  1890,  Manufacturing 
Industries,  Part  III.  jiage  68. 


WOOL. 


121 


for  each  dcc(>iinial  year  fi-om  1S40  to  1900.  both  in- 
clusive. 

Tabic  ;^0  exhibits  a  total  for  tlie  United  States,  under 
eacli  item  of  the  schedule  of  incjuir}-  for  r.ioo,  for  each 
branch  of  the  industry,  viz,  woolen  mills,  worsted  mills, 
carpet  mills,  felt  mills,  and  wool  hat  mills. 

The  .-^i-X  tables  following  Table  'iO  correspond  thereto 
in  form  and  scope,  but  contain  statistics  for  each  of  the 
different  branches  of  the  industry  se^jregated  in  these 
tables  and  shown  l)y  totals  for  each  state  and  for  the 
United  States.     Their  titles  are  as  follows: 

Table  31— Woolen  mills. 

Table  32— Worsted  mills. 

Table  33— Carpet  mills. 

Table  34— Felt  mills. 

Table  35— Wool  hat  mills. 

Table  36  contains  statistics  of  custom  carding  mills. 


Table  37  contjiins  the  statistics  for  wool  scouring  in 
1900. 

Table  38  contains  the  statistics  for  wool  pulling  in 
1900. 

Table  39  is  a  detailed  presentation  by  totals  for  states 
and  for  the  United  States,  showing  the  results  of  the 
inquiry  relating  to  the  shoddy  manufacture. 

Table  40  is  a  detailed  statement  of  the  fur  hat  manu- 
facture in  1900,  with  the  totals  by  states  and  for  the 
United  States. 

Table  41  is  a  comparative  summary  for  liosiery  and 
knit  goods  for  each  census  year,  beginning  with  1850, 
and  contains  all  the  items  of  inquiry  common  to  the 
decades. 

Table  42  exhibits  a  total  for  the  United  States  under 
each  item  of  the  schedule  of  inquiry  for  1900,  for  the 
hosiery  and  knit  goods  manufacture. 


122 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  29.— WOOL  MANUFACTURE  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  COMPARATIVE 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIES. 

Year. 

Kum- 
ber  of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments.' 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 

AVERAGE  mJMBER  OF  WAGE-EABNERS  A.VE 
WAGES. 

TOTAL 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Total. 

Men,  16 
years 
and 
over. 

Women, 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Children, 

under  16 

years. 

Average 
number. 

169,108 
154,271 
132,672 
105,071 
60,419 
45,438 
21,342 

Wages. 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
51860 
61850 
1840 

1,414 
1,693 
2,330 
3,208 
1,476 
1,675 
1,420 

8310, 179, 749 
245,886,743 
143.512,278 
121,451,059 
38,814,422 
31,971,631 
15,765,124 

4,495 
=  3.652 

S6, 455, 495 
=4,057,695 

$57,933,817 
64,339,775 
40,687,612 
36,928,160 
11,699,630 

1^1 

83,371 
78,650 
67,942 
53,400 
29,852 
26,559 
21,»42 

64,141 
64,944 
49,107 
39,160 
20,567 
18,879 

11,. 596 
10,777 
15,623 
12.5-21 

m 

2 
S 
4 
6 
6 
7 

B 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
I860 
1840 

488 
518 
564 
675 
420 
482 
489 

177,844,108 
134, 627,  725 
76,522.066 
63,8.56.145 
24,700,353 
17,667,892 
9,269,935 

2,086 
1,316 

3,350,088 
1,837,649 

82,472 
77,747 
67,582 
54,851 
30,130 
22,6'20 
11,268 

31,230,772 
28,190,048 
21,390,036 
19,-588,984 
7,032,555 

46,540 
42,323 
31,939 
26,462 
16,993 
11,980 
11,268 

31,424 
31,138 
-25,712 
22,605 
13,137 
10,540 

4,508 
4,286 
6,931 
6,784 

9 
10 

1 

12  > 

1 

13  ; 



1 

1 

ift 

16 

Maine                           . .        

1900 
1890 
18S0 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
ISflO 

81 
78 
96 
108 
28 
36 
24 

45 
62 
61 
82 
64 
61 
66 

24 
29 
44 
66 
46 
72 
96 

196 
219 
214 
226 
147 
119 
144 

78 
69 
61 
76 
58 
45 
41 

65 
71 
88 
117 
87 
149 
119 

502 
652 
794 
1,024 
659 
717 
620 

14,. 512, 120 

9, 456. 830 

4.016,328 

4,187,745 

940,400 

467, 60O 

316, 105 

11,280,295 
12,015,721 
7,150,855 
5. 626, 100 
2,647.300 
2. 437. 700 
740,345 

3,202,151 
3,304.382 
2,320,161 
2,  330,  900 
1,746,300 
886,300 
1,406,960 

90, 128, 754 
66, 568,  .586  , 
36, 764, 000 
26,722,900 
13,005,8.53 
9,089,342 
4,179,860 

41,307,942 

24,310,743 

13,016,116 

10, 467,  .500 

3, 169. 000 

1,013,000 

08.5,350 

17,412,846 
18.971.463 
12.2.5.5.206 
14,.5L'1.000 
3. 191.. 500 
3,773,950 
1,931,335 

110,361,026 
86,140,2.59 
53,834,368 
37,194,990 
10,472,728 
8,351,908 
5,619,175 

■22.5 
126 

281,761  i 
136.841 

7.324 
5,067 
3,244 
3,104 
1,064 
624 
532 

6.461 
6,10-2 
5,599 
6,081 
2,655 
2,127 
893 

1,557 
1,541 
2,084 
1,895 
2,073 
1.393 
1,450 

42,069 
37,739 
34,717 
28,025 
15,638 
11,130 
5,076 

17,854 

17,641 

12,126 

7,894 

4,232 

1,758 

%1 

8,207 
9,757 
9,813 
8, 852 
4,468 
5,488 
2,356 

64,973 
62, 345 
54,138 
36,322 
16,121 
13,81.12 
8,464 

2,762,664 
1,824,670 
1,090,528 
1,066,151 
273,696 

4,699 

3,162 

1,810 

1,592 

565 

310 

532 

3,130 
3,160 
2,811 
2,259 
1,-291 
926 
893 

1,060 
903 

1,171 
936 
896 
683 

1,450 

23,363 
20.636 
17,688 
13, -228 
8.964 
6.167 
5,076 

9,141 

8,703 

6,871 

1        3,644 

2,694 

987 

961 

5.147 
5.759 
5,688 
4,804 
2,684 
2,907 
2,366 

31,558 
29,582 
26,797 
18,182 
9,9-28 
8,549 
8,464 

2,425 
1,755 
1,140 
1,287 
499 
314 

200 
150 
294 
225 

18 

1 

20 

22 
23 
24 

131 

120 

166,074 
161,908 

2,046,316 
2,190,657 
1,701,619 
1,788,894 
687,746 

2,201 
2.758 
2,-284 
2,328 
1,364 
1,201 

130 

184 
504 
491 

25 

26  ' 

t7 

isjn 

•X) 

1900 

f. 

78,625 
42, 475 

603,963 
582,965 
644, 138 
649,628 
214, 572 

470 
601 
783 
759 
1,178 
710 

27 

37 

130 

201 



30 

11 

1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1.890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
ISiO 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

81900 
1890 
1880 

61870 
18C0 

81850 
1840 

1-' 



f? 

15 

Ifi 

1,048 
624 

1,710,094 
926, 458 

16,057,849 

13,732,316 

11,027,8-22 

9,809,.718 

3,658,589 

16,420 
16,391 
11,060 
11,961 
6,674 
4,963 

2,286 
1,712 
3,069 
2,836 

37 

1H 

Rhode  Island 

1") 

<in 

407 
246 

750,494 
333,073 

•n 

6,721,040 
6,228,686 
3,703,257 
2,862,492 
1,069,728 

7,230 
7,111 
4,387 
3.184 
1.638 
771 

1,483 

1,727 
1,867 
1,066 

44 

•Ifi 

17 

. 

•1<) 

Wl 

21  .S 
156 

363, 140 
236,894 

3,040,040 
3,630,764 
3,3-22,672 
3,413,101 
1,128,324 

2,678 
3,522 
3.058 
3,086 
1,784 
2,681 

as-2 

476 

1,067 

%2 

61 
■i? 

Middle  states              

■il 

51 

■iS 

5fi 

57 

1,747 
1,412 

2,361,313 
1,527,627 

23,  .567, 092 
22,401,695 
16,682,073 
12,619,089 
3,717,095 

27,456 
27,416 
20, 144 
13,028 
6,193 
5,253 

5.959 
5,347 
7,197 
5,112 

68 
50 

New  York             

(in 

51 

fi'> 

fil 

864,861 
462,984 

64 

1900 
1890 
1S80 
1870 
1860 
1860 
1840 

1900 
1890 
ISSO 

100 
138 
189 
272 
168 
249 
323 

43 

35 
37 

32,098,305 
26, 8.53,  583 
18, 248.  698 
14.451,232 
4,133,f.6S 
4.4.59.370 
3,469,349 

18,924,6T7 
6,441,5-1 
2,991.125 

597 
357 

18,027 
17,336 
16,428 
12,487 
6,123 
6,674 
4,636 

8.232 
5,872 
4,072 

6,610,259 
6,133,609 
5,189,180 
4,315,710 
1,351,955 

8,553 
7,814 
7,405 
6,199 
3,475 
4,262 
4,636 

3,877 
2,867 
2,287 

8,330 
8,213 
6,931 
4,583 
•2,648 
2,412 

1,144 
1,309 
2,092 
1,705 

65 
66 

57 

68 

5Q 

7(1 

71 

210 
99 

376,450 
133,517 

2, 674, 566 
1,940,254 
1,162.754 

3,6-26 
2,786 
1,118 

7-29 
■219 
667 

72 
73 

1  The  number  of  establishments  affords  no  clew  to  the  growth  or  condition  of  the  industry  of  wool  manufacturing.  This  is  due  to  Ihe  fact  that  in  all  censuses 
of  the  industry  (except  that  of  1860)  the  custom  carding  mill  has  been  counted  as  a  wool  factory,  although  it  is  not,  in  the  modern  use  of  the  term,  a  factory,  and 
ought  not.  therefore,  to  be  included  with  the  statistics  of  factory  manufacture.  The  present  census  and  that  of  1890  have  made  such  an  elimination  possible 
hereafter  by  a  distinct  statement  of  the  statistics  of  custom  carding  mills. 

-  Includes  proprietors  and  lirm  members,  with  their  salaries,  number  only  reported  in  1900.  but  not' included  in  this  table. 

3  Not  reported  separately. 

^  Not  reported. 


WOOL. 

SUMMARY,  BY  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  ARRANGED' GEOGRAPIIICALI.Y,  1840  TO  1900. 


123 


MACHINERY. 

Mi.scellane- 
0U9  ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials used. 

PRINCIPAL  MATERIALS — QUANTITIES  CONSUMED. 

1 

Cards. 

Combing 

ma- 
chines. 

Loom.'). 

Spindle.s. 

Wool  in  condition  purchased. 

Raw  cot- 
ton, and 
cotton 
warp,  and 
yarn,  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds). 

Animal 
hair  and 
fur  and 
noils,  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds). 

1 

Shoddy, 
not  made 

in  mill 
(pounds). 

Value  of 
products. 

Total 
(pounds). 

Foreign 
(pounds). 

Domestic" 
(pounds). 

6,605 
7,015 
6,989 
8,705 
3,319 

1,461 
869 
515 
261 

74,190 
69, 658 
67,297 
45,737 
16,075 

1^1 

3,511,099 
2,793,147 
2,111,973 
2,046,113 
639,700 

$17,329,932 
15,622,263 

(!) 

«181,169,127 
167,233,987 
149,160,600 
124, 318, 792 
43,447,048 
28,831,583 
(*) 

394, 369, 523 
351,158,020 
287,  .597, 334 
214,373,219 
95,4.52,159 
70,862,829 

136, 4M,  961 
111,382,308 
72,751,940 
46,288,805 

2.37,934,562 
239, 775, 712 
214,84.3,394 
168,0.84,414 

(») 

98, 632, 496 
94,372,267 
63,830,664 
26,420,626 
17,218,061 

35,111,063 

26,262,316 

8,011,037 

lii 

34,496,508 
66,826,475 
60,640,663 
19,384,404 

(8) 

(') 
(4) 

$2%,  990, 484 
270,527,611 

238,086,686 
199,2.37,262 
73, 4.34, 000 
48, 608, 779 
20,696,999 

1 
2 
3 
1 
5 
6 
7 

3,427 
3,762 
3,396 
3,471 
1,774 

821 
519 
302 
225 

40,238 
33,348 
30,692 
21,865 
8,920 

2,071,546 
1,. 570, 097 
1,246,100 
1,206,717 
393,  333 

8,475,2.53 
9, 143, 1M 

99,783,297 

86,887,689 

80,152.160 

68,819,733  l 

29,570,028 

16,0.5.5,233 

224, 826, 710 
195,867,736 
163, 763, 773 
123, 791,. 815 
67, 702. 407 
43,118,059- 



62,874,a31 
58,429,807 
43, 475, 5.34 
30,295.579 

161,931,&39 
137,  437, 929 
120,288,219 
93,496,236 

.39, 135, 944 
30,833,876 
26, 775, 273 
11,479,564 
11,883,078 

8, 530, 697 
9, 366, 220 
2,441,485 

24,485,828 
3.3,721,895 
28,653.694 
10,917,494 

161,566,277 
139,302,134 
130,014,752 
108, 295, 425 
47,722,814 
26,077,812 
12,959,486 

8 

n 

1? 

13 

14 

437 
387 
274 
336 
80 

19 

5 

2,802 
2,020 
1.103 
1,161 

ia6 

181,621 

126,418 

68,192 

66,649 

11,765 

860,447 
593, 305 

8,142,820 
6,67.5,347 
4,443,190 
4,013,759 
1,035,876 
.      495, 940 

20,  240, 598 
13,782,749 
9.074.011 
7,721,228 
2, 464, 300 
1,438,434 

3,154,524 

1.744,381 

1,083,606 

382, 727 

17,086,074 
12,038,368 
7,988,405 
7, 338,  .301 

3,287,412 

2,639,862 

1,. 576, 462 

769,363 

82,500 

2,280,861 

1, 346, 818 

402, 707 

3,094,185          13,744,126 
1,616,035    !        8,737,653 
1,302,789            6.9.39.003 

15 
16 
17 

6, 483, 881 

1,759,007 

763,300 

412,366 

10,381,056 
10,963,260 
10.858,071 
10,513,226 
4,368,713 
2,127,746 
795,784 

2,822,646 
2,723,683 
3,217,807 
3,644,469 
2,938,626 
1,679,161 
1,331,953 

18 

19 

?0 

! 

?1 

335 
380 
317 
360 

204 

34 
29 
21 
12 

5,312 
4,049 
2,884 
1,695 
696 

146,292 
136,  648 
138,223 
12.5,079 
36  320 

4.55,398 
617,062 

6,636,567 
7,024,461 
6,  605, 355 
6,  .569, 028 

16,218,609 
18,696,016 
1.3, 172,  .^37 
11,832,666 
.3,505,106 
3,604,103 

1,681,498 
4,864,212 
2, 379.  .376 
1,96.S,,S69 

14,637,111 
13,841,804 
12, 793, 262 
9,863.797 

6,760,375 
4,308,468 
2,871,944 
1,670,994 
861,000 

179,362 
150,066 
50. 362 

4,181,362 
3,  .{24, 970 
3,115,390 
1,380,000 

22 
23 
24 

?5 

2,776,026 
1,267,329 

?« 

1 

■>7 

I 

?8 

124 
120 
145 

177 
99 

775 
682 
746 
670 
463 

39,208 
41,839 
46,264 
49,255 
23.  371 

131,. 575 
178, 385 

1,732,372 
1,435,163 
2,012,490 
1,955,972 
1,662,6.50 
830,684 

3,170,602 
3,940,070 
3,603,191 
4,611,347 
4,047,010 
2,328,100 

341,902 
1,279,2.30 

161,404 
1,120,680 

2,828,600 
2,660,820 
3,441,787 
3,490,667 

570,799 
659, 601 
640,470 
77,800 
279,600 

90,0.38 
8,6.30 
7,598 

822, 069 
1,562,221 
2,286,150 

226,967 

?9 

30 

31 

r> 

33 



34 

3.3 

l,."i94 
1,785 
1,622 
1,433 
873 

424 
265 
190 
172 

19,746 
16,349 
15,863 
11,662 
4,237 

952,854 
739,952 
588,941 
S67,611 
169,651 

4,019,232 
4,584,917 

49,120,181 
42,273,379 
40,283,171 
33,796,994 
16,367,378 
8,671,671 

118,682,087 
97,757,379 
84,929,798 
63,499,752 
39,731,072 
22,229,952 

42,586,492 
34,930,030 
28,011,595 
20,189,746 

76, 095,  .595 
62,827,349 
56, 918, 203 
43,310,006 

17,382,063 
15, 160,  .384 
13, 704, 566 
5,056,357 
6,871,370 

3, 767, 1.34 
6, 770, 990 
1,751,208 

9, 808, 403 
21,608,371 
13,017,085 

81,041,537 
67,  .399, 321 
64.  9fiS.  209 

36 
37 
38 

5,994,110    i       .32.270.608 

38 

24,015,443 

;       12,770,565 

7,082,898 

39,042,660 
32,205,829 
21.. 38,8. 204 

40 

41 

4? 

478 
558 
495 
484 
253 

287 
193 
70 

7 

8,007 
6,608 
6,9.57 
3,383 
1,586 

529,219 
340,326 
228,262 
215,973 
86,048 

2,163,422 
1,868,032 

25,087,370 
19,976,086 
13,079,812 
9,826,158 
4,071,464 
1,463,900 

51,727,800 
39,973,992 
27,141,974 
14,421,967 
6,83.5,100 
4, 103, 370 

10,710,3'22 

8.929.242 

4,469,088 

772.247 

41,017,478 
31,044,750 
22,672.8% 
13,649,720 

7, 709, 524 
4,095.989 
4, 783. 289 
1,697,139 
3,066,200 

1,147,471 
317,184 
166, 893 

2,103,887 
2,168,503 
2,027,782 

43 
44 

919,000          1.3.394.067 

46 

6,917,705 

2,381,825 

842, 172 

47 

1 

48 

1 

49 

459 
632 

543 
682 
265 

57 
27 
21 
34 

3,596 
3,  WO 
3,139 
3,294 
1.733 

222,3.52 
184,914 
176, 218 
182. 150 
76, 178 

85.5,179 
1,302,073 

9,063,987 
10,503,253 
13,728,142 
12,6.58,822 
4,6.57.634 
3,326,709 

14,  787, 114 
21,717,530 
23,841,962 
21, 704, 8.35 
9,129,819 
9,414,100 

4,500,113       10,287,001 
6,692.692       1.3,024,83.s 
7,368,286        16,473,676 
.5,861,310  j     16, 843,  .343 

3,  425,  771 
3,969,375 
3, 198, 542 
2,207,911 
1,732,508 

1,065,811 

772, 622 

62,717 

4,475,922 
6,442,795 
6,903,998 
2, 398, 417 

1      14,534,252 
17,072,398 
22,423,458 

1       19, 989, 184 

60 
81 
ft? 

63 

7,733,320 

i        6,46.5,216 

2,494,313 

64 

66 

66 

2,277 
2,203 
2,164 
2,558 
920 

601 

301 

210 

38 

27,531 
29.002 
22, 206 
18,291 
6,432 

1, 116,  l.iS 
914,9<.H) 
638, 48 1 
5.54,247 
210,054 

7,681,003 
6,046,720 

71,116,948 
68,103,765 
57, 908, 066 
41,941,018 
10, 938, 446 
8,040,747 

138, 654, 768 
118,634,796 
95, 389, 023 
61,166,252 
18,910,319 
22,437,7.54 

71, 646, 991 
50, 706. 69S 
28, 976, 386 
1.5,834,201 

66,907,777 
07,  928,09s 
66,412,637 
43,332,051 

49, 940, 939 
.34,972,659 
33,867,475 
13, 321,  .376 
4,943,183 

26,492,962 
16, 823, 593 
5, 463,  .5.52 

7,877,940 
18, 913.  964 
20,9.31,183 

8,457,123 

118,2.38,243 
110,911,526 
91,136,4,31 
i       68,467,540 
20.386,330 
14,065,456 
6, 637, 708 

57 
68 
69 
60 

61 

6? 

(;3 

748 
702 
830 
940 
324 

116 

K4 

,S0 

1 

6,269 
5,025 
3,870 
3.860 
1,686 

274,009 
344,847 
198,420 
166, 2t!0 
87,887 

1,728,288 
1,235,146 

16,364,607 
16,769,138 
14,478,735 
11,676,379 
4,311,116 
3,838,292 

44, 239, 280 
35,30.3,969 
29, 987, 847 
2.5,518,6.52 
8,535,498 
12,538,786 

2.5,546,837 

21,345.999 

13, 495, 1.59 

9, 305, 779 

18,692,443 
13,9.39.971' 
16,4',I2.6SS 
lc;,212,S7:i 

8,366,734 
7.781,739 
4,434,013 
1.186.659 
193.  683 

2,259,538 
2. 074, 631 
1,394,947 

648,362 

1,617,481 

2,166,471 

452,990 

30,813,339 
28,563,569 
25, 078, 747 
19,609,021 
7,498,077 
7,030.601 
3,537,337 

13,799,284 
8,893,237 

1        5.967,893 

64 
65 
66 

67 

68 

69 

70 

207 
202 
161 

128 

29 

9 

3, 576 
1,.533 
1,2.S5 

176,340 
77,069 
3.5,791 

1,052.701 
547,886 

8,495,338 
3,4.50,490 
3,8,58,992 

18,669,056 
12,524,210 
6,  990, 378 

3,  646, 7.34 

1,348,047 

65.3.001 

13,022,301 
11,176.163 
6, 335, 377 

2,919,438 
2, 625, 882 
1,.>39,.302 

91,185 

490,110 

1,107,749 

195,983 
2,927,640 
2. 676, 856 

71 
72 
73 

■•  Carding  mills  were  not  included  in  the  report  oi  the  woolen  industry  of  1860,  and  are  therefore  not  included  in  the  figures  for  that  year  in  the  above  table. 
There  were  712  of  these  ostahlishnnnts.  with  a  total  capital  of  SI. 080,985.  emploving  l,'27ti  hands,  who  reeeivod  $286,267.  Thev  used  5,230,651  pounds  of  wool,  and 
produied  5,091,1%  pouiKls  of  wiiul  n»Ils.  valued  at  $2.40:i,513. 

^  The  details  of  the  carpt-t  indii-;try  were  not  given  by  states  in  1850.  The  totals,  however,  have  been  added  to  the  "  total  for  the  United  States  "  in  this  table, 
the  figures  being  as  follows:  Estabiislim'.'nts.  116:  capital.  83,862.981;  number  of  employees,  6.186;  cost  of  materials  used,  $3,075,592.  and  value  of  products,  So.401.234. 

"  This  item  was  not  fully  rt.*["'rted  at  the  census  of  IS.^0. 

^Includes  reports  from  establialimeuta  distributed  as  follows:  1900 — Delaware,  2.    1870— District  of  Columbia.  1.    1850— District  of  CoUimbia.  1. 


124 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  29.— WOOL  MANUFACTURE  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  COMPARATIVE 


STATES  AND  TERRITORIES. 

Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments.! 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 

AVERAGE  KUHBER  OF   WAGE-EARNERS   AND  TOTAL 
WAGES. 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Total. 

Men,  16 
years 
and 
over. 

Women. 

16  years 
and 
over. 

Children. 

under  16  ! 

years. 

Average 
number. 

Wages. 

Middle  states— Continued: 

1870 
1860 

law 

1840 

1900 
1890 
18«0 
1870 
1860 
18.W 
1840 

=^1900 
1890 
18S0 
1870 
1S60 

laso 

1840 

31900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

ngoo 

1890 
1880 
1870 

1860 
1850 
1840 

36 
45 

41 
31 

353 
467 
548 
672 
407 
380 
235 

SI,. 524, 200 
646,200 
494,274 
314,650 

57,696,913 

52,021,2.56 

31,898.226 

20,615,413 

5,211,510 

3,005,064 

1,510,546 

1,522 
986 
898 
427 

37,550 
38,473 
32,989 
21,573 

8,'4M 
5,726 
2,930 

8493,054 
226,788 

709 
608 
411 
427 

18,412 

18,572 
16,688 
10,831 
5,488 
3,490 
2,930 

552 
378 

487 

261 

75 
76 

78 

900 
940 

$1,067,315 
914,378 

$14,045,869 

14,117,2.54  i 
10,162,244 
7,607,489 
2,016,384 

15,220 

16,189 

11,930 

7,714 

2,996 

2,236 

3,918 
3,712 
4,365 
3,028 

79 
80 
81 
82 
83 
84 

85 
86 
87 
88 
89 
90 
91 

1 

3 
5 
11 
4 
8 
2 

4 
9 

15 
32 
35 
38 
29 

214 
222 
447 
589 
115 
155 
115 

450,974 
352,559 
384,500 
117,000 
148,500 
107,000 

1,830,549 
372,875 
343, 760 
215,245 
364,450 
244,000 
117,630 

7,591,498 
7,894,776 
2,994,517 
3,327,9.52 
1,744,100 
747, 360 
304,650 

9 

12,298 

288 
261 
399 
114 
140 
83 

877 
376 
388 
339 
414 
362 
388 

4,700 
5,392 
2,645 
2,888 
2,205 
1,119 
488 

91,097 
108,504 
11.5, 137 

27,564 

139 
171 
186 

76 
1-22 

83 

576 
190 
246 
255 
281 
262 
388 

1,902 
2,303 
1,498 
1,831 
1,429 
808 
488 

110 
59 

110 
38 
18 

39 
31 
103 

25 
7 

4 

35,625 
4,450 

221,215 
119,481 
69,391 
87,099 
94,404 

204 
118 
100 
69 
133 
100 

97 
68 
42 
15 

93 
94 
95 
% 
97 
98 

214 
325 

234,875 
226,117 

979,188 
1,338,729 
493,634 
575,529 
418,368 

2,037 
2,421 
745 
669 
776 
311 

761 
668 
402 
388 

100 
101 
102 
103 
104 
105 

:;. 



106 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1870 

•■■I860 

51850 

51840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

41900 
61890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
51850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

28 
35 
48 
68 
45 
121 
41 

34 
30 
55 
74 

783,527 
845,221 
456,750 
435,375 
463,600 
392,640 
112, 350 

721,218 
336,281 
293, 170 
236,100 

39 
45 

37,667 
22,995 

362 
399 
365 
278 
494 
668 
222 

414 
253 
353 
316 

103,773 
94,028 
71,720 
68,765 

106,692 

214 
249 
251 
190 
381 
478 
222 

249 
138 
226 
207 

127 
119 
95 
56 
113 
190 

21 
31 
19 
32 

107 
108 
109 

110 
111 
112 

16 
34 

17,440 
11,612 

113.960 
50,407 
44, 161 
59,828 

145 
104 
96 

79 

20 
11 
31 
30 

114 

Vorth  Carolina    

116 

117 
118 
119 

120 



16 

27 

49 

52 

7 

1 

3 

347,830 
339,088 
203,100 
237,800 
223.000 
18. 000 

9,  aw 

17 
25 

9,065 
10,411 

206 
299 

185 

249 

253 

30 

4 

...    . 

39,094 

54,918 
23,195 
39, 101 
60,036 

106 
145 
120 
151 
113 
15 
4 

91 
125 

.50 

81 
140 

15 

9 
29 
15 
17 

121 

123 

124 
125 
126 

127 
128 
129 
130 

11 

15 

1 

7,900 
25,900 
60,000 

13 
53 
92 

1,173 
3,815 
11,400 

13 
32 
37 

13 
55 

8 

131 
132 
133 

3 

14 
14 
S2 
46 
11 
3 
1 

37 
42 
98 
125 
37 
25 
40 

51 
49 
106 

148 

1 

4 

26 

4,300 

455, 114 
298,539 
180,733 
936,585 
242,500 
68,000 
2,000 

1,922.574 
2,70.5,683 
890,  750 
700,449 
408,500 
249,820 
138,000 

2,399,518 

1,393,679 

418,664 

373, 868 

6,000 

10,900 

25,600 

6 

561 
162 
142 
563 
383 
78 
10 

868 
1,904 
823 
683 
437 
318 
200 

1,632 

927 

402 

428 

10 

17 

45 

6 

284 
64 
72 
251 
167 
40 
10 

184 
804 
353 
454 
350 
256 
200 

557 
359 
249 
342 

8 
15 
45 

13 

17 

16,936 
9,367 

97,159 
23,034 
25,070 
122, 138 
63,348 

189 
71 
45 
191 
216 
38 

88 
27 
25 
121 

135 
136 

KentuckT     

117 

138 
139 
140 

141 

25 
90 

41,472 
89,478 

190,148 
503,827 
166,189 
159,373 
103,284 

454 
922 
253 
137 
87 
62 

230 

178 

217 

92 

142 

144 

145 
146 

14S 

64 
71 

67,673 
48,620 

294,116 

191,037 

67,063 

62,780 

2,472 

759 

444 

111 

61 

2 

2 

316 

124 

42 

25 

149 
150 

I'll 

152 

154 

■  The  number  of  establishments  affords  no  clew  to  tliu  growth  or  condition  of  the  industry  of  wool  manufacturinfc.  This  is  due  to  the  fact  that  in  all  censuses 
of  the  industrv  (e.\cept  that  of  I860)  the  custom  carding  mill  has  been  counted  as  a  wool  factorv.  although  it  is  not.  in  the  modern  use  of  the  term,  a  factory,  and 
ought  not.  therefore,  to  be  included  with  the  statistics  of  factory  manufacture.  The  present  census  and  that  of  1890  have  made  such  an  elimination  possible 
hereafter  by  a  distinct  statement  of  the  statistics  of  custom  carding  mills. 

-  Includes  reports  from  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  1900— Delaware,  2.    1870— District  of  Columbia,  1.    1850— District  of  Columbia,  1. 


WOOL. 

SUMMARY,  BY  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY,  1840  TO  1900— Continued. 


125 


MACHINERY. 

Miscellane- 
ous e.x- 
penses. 

Cost  o!  ma- 
terials used. 

PRINCIPAL  MATERIALS— QUANTITIES  CONSUMED.           , 

Value  of 
products. 

Cards. 

Combing 

ma- 
chines. 

Looms. 

Spindles. 

Wool  in 

condition  purchased. 

Raw  cot- 
ton, and 
cotton 
warp,  and 
yarn,  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds). 

Animal 
hair  and 

fur  and 
noils,  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds). 

Shoddv 
not  made 

in  mill 
(pounds). 

Total 
(pounds). 

Foreign 
(pounds). 

Domestic 
(pounds). 

98 
61 

776 
270 

26, 769 
10,361 

91,618,753 
596, 895 
548,367 

2,856,526 
1,443,800 
1,510,289 

480,347 

2,376,178 

407, 398 
239,500 

27,000 

$■2,616,461 

1,197,694 

1,164,446 

440, 710 

71,878,503 
72,393,182 
.58,886,250 
4.5,?21,795 
10,901,767 
.5,321,866 
2, 319, 061 

74 

76 

77 

1, 2m 

1,2.M 

1, 120 

1,42'J 

483 

357 
188 
121 
29 

17,265 
2-2,  101 
10,789 
13,265 
4,334 

641,657 
474,618 
393,387 
340, 114 
108,326 

84.833,661 
3,221,842 

4.5,137,049 

45,173,677 

38, 740, 330 

28,010,301 

5, 674, 197 

3,282,718 

73, 162, 801 
69,387,219 
56,761,365 
31,723,147 
7, 703, 249 
7,560,379 

40,463,005 

27,877,283 
14, 623, 020 
6,014,170 

32,709,796 
41,509,936 
42, 128, 345 
2.5,708,977 

37,640,684 
44,218,488 
27.771,271 
11,. 504, 634 
4,337,000 

24,142,239 
14,258,8.52 
2,940,-522 

6,874,350 
14, 232, 953 
1.5,403,878 

7, 879, 203 

78 
79 
80 

81 

8? 

SI 



84 

85 

15 
13 
30 

8 

229 
126 

'76 

7,306 

4,306 
8,756 
1,000 

27,404 

295,605 
448,286 
392,614 
7.5,807 
2(M,  172 

531, 198 
836,883 
546, 187 
140.000 
393,000 

35,369 

203,206 

12,455 

495, 829 
633,677 
533,  732 

314,500 
65,100 
185,000 
100,000 

95,890 
346,778 
%,930 

482,022 
666,253 
676,067 
153,035 
251,000 
104,700 

1,218,378 
579,516 
538,308 
411,596 
636,7.57 
29.5,140 
236,900 

6,688,416 
6, 700,  .545 
3,968,671 
4,278,311 
2,840,650 
1,293,642 
321,357 

86 

20,084 

87 

88 

89 

• 

90 

91 

47 
30 
30 
61 
44 

179 
114 
136 
160 
66 

15,828 
11,160 

6,580 
12,348 

2,480 

54,181 
14,442 

667,036 
424,855 
381,724 
241 ,  224 
280,431 
165,568 

1,938,908 
886,200 
822,550 
521,741 

1,087,772 
430,300 

1,938,908 
786,200 
822,550 
500,291 

637, 730 
32,060 
37,589 
37,885 
73,000 

68,326 

40,000 

297,200 

1,000 

9? 

100,000 

93 

250 

94 

21,450 

95 

96 

97 

98 

373 
385 
549 
908 
232 

15 
4 

3,291 
3,788 
1,315 
1,322 
296 

123,869 

106,541 

47,989 

50,311 

16,544 

299,046 
362,477 

3,493,870 
4,000,966 
2,736,023 
2,71.5,827 
1,634,730 
750,203 

7,948,193 
8,730,576 
6,021,980 
5,912,689 
6,042,682 
2,448,026 

512,883 

357,790 

85,000 

1,200 

7,435,310 
8, 372, 786 
6,936,980 
6,911,389 

7,236,610* 

.5,39.5,513 

1,465,408 

616, 459 

421,800 

1,550 

61,741 

500 

1,060,458 

1,188,8J7 

279,647 

2,762 

99 
100 

ini 

w 

103 

104 



105 

62 
54 
54 
116 
50 

2 

221 
212 
154 
137 
121 

14,322 
12,382 

8,486 
6,236 
7,574 

22,780 
43,972 

391,659 
375,175 
383,080 
317,800 
389,  204 
488,899 

1,184,231 

975,745 

862,812 

742,200 

1,131,000 

1,554,110 

9,000 

25,367 

5,000 

1,200 

1,175,231 
950, 378 
8.57,812 
741,000 

101,434 
106, 112 
104, 170 
27, 260 
10,000 

124, 351 
88,585 
60,000 

627,581 
609,809 
577,968 
488,352 
717,827 
841,013 
147, 792 

567,300 
328,800 
356,986 
475,763 

106 

1,500 
500 

107 

108 

109 



11(1 

111 

i 1 

11'^ 

53 
41 
72 
132 

1 

258 
153 
179 
120 

14, 180 
7,164 
8,081 
6,387 

32,649 
15,418 

369,  753 
202,801 
245,813 
307,051 

843,9.59 
600,823 
602, 399 
673,003 

3,000 
5,001 

840,9.59 
596,822 
602,399 
673,003 

262,417 
31,209 
4,000 

135,912 
9,632 
33,819 

113 

114 

115 

116 

117 

lis 

:::;::;::;::::;::::::::: 

119 

25 
35 
57 
78 
23 

161 
169 
30 
97 
20 

6,334 
10,990 
2,374 
2,806 
1,000 

14,527 
14,758 

204,961 
198,358 
255,707 
166.497 
151,005 
13,9.50 

577, 750 
449,260 
576, 146 
365,693 
.504.. 500 
30,000 

577,750 
398,  ,500 
496, 145 
355, 693 

96, 763 

282,860 
118,464 
10,000 

38,365 
40,000 
12,444 

289,506 

308, 946 

303,100 

298, 638 

.  291,000 

23,750 

3,900 

i?n 

50,760 
80,000 

40,374 

121 

]■>? 

1'« 

;;:::::::::: ...;: 

I'M 

1?6 



1''6 

1?7 

r's 

11 

25 
10 

19,455 
22, 238 
60,000 

48, 9.50 
55, 696 
250,000 

48,950 
55,696 

24, 075 
34,469 
80,000 

I'X) 

9 

350 

1,300 

700 

130 

131 

13? 

1,000 

491,001 
173,245 
239,390 
471,523 
464,420 
88,750 
3,000 

1,431,684 

2,721,968 

1,264,988 

1,312,458 

845, 226 

318,819 

151,246 

1,517,194 

1,216,419 

620,724 

6%,)M4 

8,100 

6,310 

14,290 

13.^ 

31 
20 
42 
72 
30 

3 

503 
119 

88 
395 

20 

11,008 
3,552 
2,224 

14,465 
1,480 

22,430 
10,887 

280, 295 
95,999 
165,065 
268, 176 
260,475 
30,392 

272,678 
208. 992 
366,274 
620, 937 
1,008,600 
153,816 

5,200 
32,000 



267,478 
176,992 
366,274 
620, 937 

1,718,472 
87.815 
131,418 
165,000 
142,500 

1,550 
19,867 

111,367 
10,000 

134 
135 

136 

137 

13S 

139 

1 

140 

5S 
100 
154 
208 

83 

9 
4 

533 

1,661 

513 

322 

94 

27,695 
40,346 
14,110 
10,509 
3,990 

59,894 
184,343 

974,417 
1,631,860 
852,405 
831,628 
510,902 
205, 287 

2, 747, 742 
2,828,377 
1,688,663 
1,639,367 
1,452,  .500 
673,900 

393,917 
57,037 

2,353,826 
2,771,340 
1,688,663 
1,639,367 

1,437,  .569 

2,892,500 

667,444 

275,250 

170,  700 

144,124 
785,940 
117, 1.51 

141 

H' 

143 

144 

146 



146 

147 

99 
80 
98 
177 

1 

1,239 
925 
167 
SO 

38. 654 
19,938 
6,860 
3,614 
500 

86,141 
56,263 

874,359 
760, 036 
423,0.54 
503,  737 
ft,  225 
1,675 

1,. 523, 442 

1,448,4.S6 

883,338 

1,030,1.53 

10,000 

6,200 

101,766 
187, 625 

1,421,076 

1,260,861 

883,338 

1,030,153 

3,189,821 

1,462,967 

180,416 

101,449 

487,089 

197,690 

56,433 

2,062 

148 

149 

1.50 

1.51 

1.5-1 

1.53 

154 

^Miiryliiiul  and  the  District  of  Columbia  are  classed  in  this  table  as  Middle  states  for  purposes  of  comparison. 

■*  hulu<irs  reports  irotn  two  establishments  in  South  Carolina. 

^  No  t;slJilili>liini'nls  reported. 

« Included  in  '■all  other  Southern  slates." 


126 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  29.-W00L  MANUFACTURE  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  COMPARATIVE 


Thi?  is  due  to  the  fact  that  in  all  censuses 

modern  use  of  the  term,  a  factory,  and 

made  such  an  elimination  possible 


WOOL. 


12' 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY,  1840  TO  1900— Continued. 


MACHINERY. 

Miscellane- 
ous ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials used. 

t 

PRINCIPAL  MATERIALS — (JVAJJTITIES  OONSl'MED. 

Value  of 
products. 

Cards. 

Combing 

ma- 
chines. 

Loom.n. 

Spindies. 

Wool  in  condition  purchased. 

Raw  cot- 
ton, and 
cotton 
warp,  and 
yarn,  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds). 

Animal 
hair  and 
fur  and 

noils,  not 

made  in 

mill 

(pounds). 

Shoddy, 
not  made 

ill  mill 
(pounds). 

rrotai 

{pounds}. 

Foreign 
(pounds). 

Domestic 
(pounds). 

8 
6 
15 
24 
14 

72 
12 
10 
2 
20 

160 

288 

160 

530 

1,000 

$15,193 
419 

»58,197 
10,997 
49, 361 
67,338 
80,790 

129,041 
10,569 
135, 366 
196,  .500 
264,435 

129,041 

10,569 
135,366 
196.  .500 

176,562 
7,. 500 
10,000 
2,000 
5,000 

$94,571 
17, 1,50 
63,  745 
89,998 

191,474 

155 

20,000 

156 

167 
158 

160 

161 

26 
31 
15 
17 
13 

130 
376 
121 
30 
21 

8,916 
9,196 
3,734 
344 
1,000 

17,817 
18,054 

103,308 
508,039 
211,646 
79,566 
119,849 

244,434 
1,665,824 
494,033 
154,  790 
270,597 

244,434 

1,665,824 
494,033 
154,790 

83,060 

416, 000 

205,896 

32,  700 

75,600 

172,908 
924,  ia5 
299,605 
147, 323 
158,507 

162 

36,000 

163 

i.,.. 

166 

' 

168 

16 
7 
29 
17 

40 
24 

41 

l.CXX) 

735 

1,360 

398 
752 

28,598 
28,030 
86,972 
55,782 

129,637 

67,500 

189,000 

115,330 

i 

129,637 

67,500 

189,000 

116,330 

14,000 

5,560 

30,600 

42,401 

38,360 

127,430 

78,690 

169 

300 

171 

173 

:::::::::::':;::::    :::: 

129 

196,340 
359,230 
80,500 
152,968 
38,796 
15,000 

175 

4 
9 
2 
29 
4 

94 

135 

12 

30 

2,600 

1,900 

600 

1,070 

17,428 
17,333 

117,327 
188,607 
44,435 
86, 817 
25,980 
10,000 

291,979 
572, 400 
17.5,000 
278, 045 

291,979 
572, 400 

86,700 
103,000 

19,260 
1,000 

176 

177 

175,000 
278, 046 

178 

179 

81,900 

, 

18,000 

180 

30,000 

' 

181 

182 

1R3 

2 

2 

50 

278 

1.064 

2,600 

2,600 

1,000 

2,433 

1H4 



185 

13 
4 

100 

4,000 

19, 197 
31,300 

50,876 
69,150 

50,875 

1,500 

31,295 
45,200 

187 

lf>8 

189 

463 

574 

807 

1,701 

383 

11 
15 
3 

2,813 
3,133 
2,786 
3,984 
382 

176,407 
176,869 
156,012 
226,638 
18, 989 

722,046 
814,072 

5,889,712 
7,126,149 
7,087,326 
10,006,478 
1,226,844 
909,808 

18,996,587 
22,869,293 
17,702,458 
20,631,163 
3, 246, 751 
2,858,990 

1,400,236 

1,743,013 

19.5,000 

157,825 

17, 6%,  361 
21,116,280 
17,607,4.58 
20,473,338 

2, 145, 184 

2,956,355 

1, 508, 482 

903,027 

85,854 
10,762 
80,500 

958,484 

943,658 

660,989 

6,225 

9,992,370 
11,673,341 
10, 722,  024 
16, 607, 375 
2,269,306 
1,770,635 
778,448 

190 
191 

193 

194 

195 

• 

1% 

78 
104 
182 
334 
173 

5 
B 
2 

674 
712 
638 
1,052 
96 

30,400 
32,263 
35,200 
62,789 
5.827 

242, 007 
136.0.50 

1,681,166 
1,398,892 
1.153,929 
2,119,869 
482,994 
578,423 

3,262,140 
3,600,244 
2, 696, 424 
3,972,234 
1, 190,  751 
1,657,726 

24, 826 
474,764 
166.000 

62,200 

3,237,315 
3,025,480 
2, 530, 424 
3,910,034 

647,347 
357. 152 
310,824 
176,464 

6,660 

3,900 

80,000 

217, 940 
199,680 
134, 063 

2,826,321 
2, 280, 002 
1,779,439 
3,467.699 

843,  .516 
1,111,027 

685,767 

996, 836 
988,652 
481,617 
1,204.868 
139, 246 
90,242 
9,734 

1,658,965 

3,036,682 

2,729,347 

4,329,711 

649.  771 

206,802 

68,867 

1,864,420 
1,844.364 
1,480,069 
1,258,417 
172,720 
87,992 

197 
198 
199 

'>on 

•'01 

202 

"im 

52 
.t4 

•M 

14 

159 
158 
167 
232 
20 

14,707 
13,  559 
10,688 
16,650 
1,000 

49,676 
60,280 

641,133 
603,374 
356,614 
659,700 
69,010 
43,402 

2,360,454 

2,033,321 

869.025 

1.391,889 

163, 100 

162, 250 

953,981 
408,026 

1,406,473 

1,626,295 

869,028 

1,391,889 

58,650 
2,440 
5,310 
3,550 

119, 261 

269,148 

37, 163 

■'04 

'"05 

•?n6 

207 

■'OR 

">(» 

?10 

92 
135 
160 
346 
112 

919 

1,006 
814 

1,180 
177 

46,  S64 
46,690 
36,886 
57,083 
8.266 

112,428 
235,  .503 

970,562 

1,880,515 

1,823,390 

2,684,315 

3.52, 362 

120,486 

3,5.52,301 
6,324,884 
4,360,456 
5,029,618 
940.  (XX) 
413, 350 

400,000 

632, 833 

10,000 

80.157 

3,1.52,301 
6, 692, 051 
4,3.50,456 
4,949,461 

848,443 

1,961,374 

831,776 

513,695 

1,194 
600 

88,235 
154,303 
345,656 

■"ll 

4 
1 

212 
•"IS 

"14 

■'15 



■'16 

•'17 

72 
63 
75 
135 
19 

9 
6 

296 
258 
220 
226 
20 

31, 744 
24,802 
16,689 
16,445 
1,000 

128,005 
124, 124 

1,168,397 
1,117.013 
892, 793 
688,193 
85,743 
32,630 

4,. 523, 001 
3, 125,  .572 
2,066,188 
1,642.637 
265,000 
134,200 

18,096 
164,090 

4,  .504, 905 
2,961,482 
2, 066, 188 
1,627,169 

163, 754 

111,323 

60,9.55 

500 

308,033 
196, 274 
35,235 

■'18 

6,262 
500 

219 

■'■'0 

15, 468 

■'91 

■ff? 

■^'3 

■'•)4 

46 

67 
106 
2.=>0 

37 

184 
323 
374 
633 
20 

16, 156 
18,745 
20, 992 
36, 888 
1,000 

80,086 
110, 159 

550,320 
789,310 
1,332,798 
1,701,323 
112,697 
115,367 

1,439,452 
2,566,621 
3,003,740 
3,  .560,  829 
327, 800 
396,964 

1,439,452 
2,607,621 
3, 003. 740 
3,.560,.S29 

66,717 
319, 179 
114,531 
151,650 

78,000 

128, 244 
67, 2,53 
83,007 

1,039,087 

1,299,506 

1,896,460 

2,849,249 

193, 388 

206, 572 

9,540 

496, 812 
639, 995 
263, 378 
219,862 

225 

59,000 

•W6 

•.'■.>7 

2-,'8 

r'q 

■?m 

?S1 

38 
37 
21 
19 

143 
125 
59 
39 

9,  ,524 
7,510 
3,852 
2,664 

36, 178 
46,211 

272,483 
309,378 
156,867 
108,540 

1,285,311 

1,3.58,290 

557,580 

254,857 

3,334 

1,281,977 

1,358.290 

537,580 

264,867 

3,526 

8,475 
4,000 
18,000 

?,3? 

?33 

20,000 

6,366 

■«4 

?3,5 

■»6 

m 



238 

'No  establishments  reported. 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  1900-1890— Louisiana,  1;  South  Carolina,  1. 


1870— Louisiana.  2;  Florida,  1.    1860— Louisiana,  1. 


128 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  29. -WOOL  MANUFACTURE  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  COMPARATIVE 


STATES   AND  TERRITORIES. 


239 
■240 
2-11 
242 
243 
244 
24.T 

246 
247 
248 
249 
250 
251 
252 

253 
254 
255 
256 
257 
258 
259 

260 
261 
262 
263 
^64 
265 
266 

267 
268 
269 
270 
271 
272 
273 

274  1 

275 

276 

277 

278 

279 

280 

281 
2S2 
283 
284 
285 
286 
287 

288 
289 
290 
291 
292 
293 
294 


Western  states— Continued. 
Iowa 


Missouri . 


Kansas  . 


Utah 


All  other  Western  states*. 


Pacific  states  , 


1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
21840 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
1850 
1840 

31900 
3  1.890 
1880 
1870 
21860 
21850 
21840 

1900 
1S90 
1.8S0 
1870 
21860 
2  18.50 
21840 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1870 

21860 

2 1850 

2 1,S40 

1900 

1890 

5  1880 

1870 

1860 

21850 

21840 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Oregon  , 


California  . 


1900 
1890 
18,80 
1.870 
1860 
21.8.50 
21840 

1900 
1.890 
1880 
1870 
1860 
21850 
21840 


25 

35 

98 

l.W 

11 

1 

9 


Capital. 


S494, 074 

694.600 

553.  .500 

1, 440,  4.84 

82,  .500 

10.000 


SALARIED  OFFICIALS, 
CLERKS,  ETC. 


Number. 


490, 747 
720, 616 
726, 1.50 
716,. 524 
103,7.50 
20,000 
5,100 


131,925 
96,000 


454, 981 
579, 209 
382,000 
223, 400 


229,292 
103, 112 


65, 000 


2,226.294 
8, 969, 065 
2, 2,83, 300 
2, 174, 200 
170,000 


1,175,820 

1,360,585 

566,800 

389,200 

70,000 


1,050,474 
2,618,480 
1.676.  .500 
1,785,000 
100,000 


Salaries. 


816, 611 
28,850 


AVERAGE  NUMBER  OF  WAGE-EARNEBS  AND  TOTAL 
WAGES. 


Total. 


Average 
number. 


20,928 
25,288 


256 
340 
499 

.,088 

120 

7 


10, 050 
13, 505 


237 

456 

689 

718 

70 

25 

13 


124 
91 


Wages. 


$64,596 
104,390 
117,792 
269, 432 
23, 652 


13, 370 
2,800 


58,280 
74, 365 


194 
259 
277 
106 


63, 314 

97, 122 

109, 877 

137, 408 

19, 728 


Men,  16 
years 
and 
over. 


126 
150 

307 

685 

96 


Women, 

16  years 

and 

over. 


25,826 
30,682 


69, 681 
90,651 
68, 108 
48,040 


170 
53 


20 


32, 820 
32, 775 


25,460 
41,590 


1,102 

1,580 

1,080 

838 

90 


672 
358 
216 
179 
30 


64,093 
13,845 


2,000 


368, 520 
388,  606 
424.406 
342,413 
49, 800 


139 

209 

412 

548 

53 

15 

13 


100 
150 
150 

68 


430 

1,222 

836 

659 

60 


208, 695 
142, 538 

86, 088 
112,213 

16, 200 


159, 825 
246, 068 
334, 318 
230,200 
33,600 


1,081 

892 

713 

67 


423 
201 
166 
129 
27 


264 
880 
708 
584 
40 


Children, 

under  16 

years. 


128 
174 
132 
293 
24 


79 
188 
144 
85 
17 
10 


103 
28 


363 

452 

149 

39 

23 


216 
134 
33 


147 

318 

108 

31 

20 


2 

16 
60 
110 


19 
69 
133 
85 


-The  number  of  establishments  affords  no  clew  to  the  growth  or  condition  of  the  industry  of  wool  manufacturirng^  the  modtm  use' of  the  t*m,'a  factS?^^ 

^^'^hrnttX^£?«finSe'd'w^^^^^^^^^^ 

hereafter  by  a  distinct  statement  of  the  statistics  of  custom  carding  mills. 
2  No  establishments  reported. 


WOOL. 


129 


SUMMARY,  BY  STATES  AND  TERRITORIES  ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY,   1840  TO  1900-Continued. 


Machinery. 

Miscellane- 
ous ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials used. 

PEIXCIPAL   MA. :;K1ALS— QUANTITIES  CONSDMED. 

Value  of 
products. 

Cards. 

Combing 

ma- 
chines. 

Looms. 

Spindles. 

Wool  in  condition  purchased. 

Raw  cot- 
ton, and 
cotton 
warp,  and 
yarn  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds). 

Animal 
hair  and 

fur  and 
noils,  not 
made  in 

mill 
(pounds) . 

Shoddy, 
not  made 

in  mill 
(pounds). 

Total 
(pounds). 

Foreign 
(pounds). 

Domestic 
(pounds). 

26 
36 

S16,831 
40,060 



8175,426 

605,503 

435,  747 

998, 073 

67,293 

773,053 
1,880,  .532 
1,407,. 510 
2,273.428 

168,  700 
14.500 

464, 946 
1,0.52,229 
1,811,635 
1,979,671 

191,400 
80,000 

364,666' 

200,000 

744,469 
800,500 
566, 900 
276,000 

591,460 
217, 100 

80,' 666" 

4,043,265 
5,065,619 
4,720,100 
2,871,400 
650, 000 

773,053 
1,880,232 
1,407,510 
2,273,428 

4,603 
10,610 
18,  .597 
23,148 

2,756 

46,000 

865 

1,225 

8296,500 

239 

1.58  :           10.828 

166             11,025 

374             31,462 

20               1 ,  000 

196               7,762 
261              12.984 
193             12.622 
183             10.371 
29                   896 

300 

695, 218     240 

679,904     241 

56 

199 

13 

1, 647, 606 

127, 640 

13,000 

800 

348,974 

648,457 

930, 961 

1,266,213 

143, 025 

56,000 

13,750 

2ii,'525' 

153, 150 

2'22,343 
333, 634 
279,424 
199, 600 

242,112 
101,931 

2i,'666' 

1,585,178 
1,939,965 
2, 253, 888 
1,608,611 
235,000 

242 
243 
244 
245 

246 

'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'J 

'.::::::::::::: 

3,  .500 

464,946 
1,048,229 
1,811,635 
1, 979, 671 

279,233 

155,  395 

118,227 

28,600 

80,779 
7,000 
4,000 

36 

29,775              311,881 

'            681,711 

849,313 

A. 1           ■  56,745 

4,000 

247 

52 

248 

126 
258 

249 
2.50 

15 

251 

6' 

24 

17 
19 

41' 

29 

94 
99 
114 
31 

36 
33 

5' 

317 
387 
298 
275 
45 

2,'636' 

1,616 

6,974 
7,960 
8, 422 
1,430 

2.724 
1,528 

246' 

23,119 

24,660 

23,388 

8,200 

780 



lb,  UUU 

ioi'isi' 

86, 105 

121,828 

163, 864 

147,226 

98,272 

101,818 
45,419 

i2'775" 

875, 300 
1,116,418 
1,277,025 

835,736 
77.000 

■ ' " ' ' " ' 

364,' 666' 

200,000 

744,469 
800,500 
566, 900 
276,000 

591,460 
217,100 

60,' 666' 

4, 043, 265 
4.920.619 
4,700,100 
2,871,400 

23,' 266' 

1,300 

64,212 
38,632 
31,697 
8,320 

8,700 
280 

174,819 
213,864 
234,026 
100,000 

2,' 666' 

252 

253 
254 
255 
•'.56 

1,761 

287 
2.58 
2.59 

260 

17,  3,54 
27, 1.55 

261 

1,000 

262 
263 

18,414 
4,765 

152,684 
255, 230 

3,000 

264 
266 
266 

267 

6 

268 

5 

i" 

65 
91 
.^3 
67 
10 



2.5,' 666' 

4,' 666' 

113, 798 

68,111 

95,150 

1,800 

269 
270 
271 
272 
273 

274 

145,000 
20,000 

276 

277 

278 

2/9 
280 

35 

175 
95 
86 
90 
15 

142 

292 

12,187 

6,052 

4,248 

4,320 

280 

10,932 
18,  ,598 

74,323 
86, 906 

465,856 
327,502 
227, 486 
227,595 
27,000 

409,  445 
7.88.916 
997,  .539 
608, 141 
50,000 

1,997,9.54 

1,366,148 

985,2.50 

943,400 

150, 000 

2,045,311 
3,699.471 
3.  .574, 850 
1,928,000 
400, 000 

1,997,964 

1,366,148 

98.5,250 

943,400 

107,384 

106,546 

6,000 

73,084 
6,000 
1,000 

897, 824 
614,932 
849, 030 
805, 857 
85,000 

687,3.54 

.1,325,033 

1,634.8,58 

1,102,7.54 

150,000 

282 

21 

1 

283 

21 

?M 

21 



285 

4 

30 
70 
60 
46 
6 

';::::;:■.'. 

78,261 
168,324 

2,045,311 
3,554,471 
3,5.54,850 
1,928,000 

67,435 
107,318 
228, 026 
100,000 

40,714 

53,111 

94,150 

1,800 

286 
287 

288 

145,000 
20,000 

■>m 

26,000 

290 

230            18, 740 
185  1            3.880 

291 

30 

600 

293 
294 

n'Sct^le?  es,;b"\'sCemYrtrmut''ed"a;  follows:  1900-Colorado,  1:  Idaho,  1;   Kansas,  1;  North  Dakota,  1;  Wyoming, 
.kota.  2.    1870— New  Mexico.  1.  .     „.     ,. 

^Includes  the  report  from  an  establishment  in  Washington. 

MOX TEXT 9 


1.    1890— Idaho,  1;  Kansas.  1;  South 


130  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  30.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SUMMARY  BY  CLASSES,  1900. 


establishments:     cohmencehent,     number, 

AND  CHARACTER  OF  ORGANIZATION. 

CAPITAL. 

Total 
number. 

Indi- 
vidual. 

Firm  and 
limited 
partner- 
ship. 

Incorpo- 
rated 
com- 
pany. 

Miscel- 
laneous. 

Total. 

Land. 

Buildings. 

Machinery, 
tools,  and 
imple- 
ments. 

Cash  and 
sundries. 

Total      

1,414 

528 

429 

456 

1 

8310,179,749 

817,936,483 

138,074,295 

$69,213,841 

$184,953,130 

186 
1,035 

133 
36 
24 

43 
426 

48 
7 
4 

60                 83 

132,168,110  ' 

124,386,262 

44,449,299 

7,125,276 

2,050,802 

6,731,982 

7,948,126 

2,641,774 

506,601 

108,000 

13, 279. 427 

17,760,3M 

5,717,%1 

1,115,961 

200,582 

27,026,759 

28, 703, 473 

11,49.5,056 

1,745,933 

244,620 

85,129,942 

298 

49 

7 

15 

311 
35 

"5 

69,974,299 

1 

24,594,608 

Felt  EToods                                                           

3, 756, 781 

1.497,600 

Propri- 
etors and 

firm 
members. 

SALARIED   EMPLOYEES. 

Total. 

1 

i 
Ofacers  of  corporations. 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  and  salesmen. 

Total. 

Men. 

W 

omen. 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Nvimber. 

Salaries. 

1 
Number,  i     Salaries. 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Number. 

Salaries. 

Total             

1,110 

4,495 

86,455,495 

606 

$1,669,246 

3,889        £4.886.249 

3,539 

^,715,986 

350 

$170,263 

Worsted  goods                

127 
,822 

111 
13 
37 

1,369 

2,246 

687 

136 

57 

2,342,218 

2, 934, 048 

881, 398 

231.065 

117 

402 

52 

28 

440,492 

847,208 

173,931 

92. 110 

1,252 

1,844 

635 

108 

50 

1,901,726 

1.130 

1,837,907 

2,001,528 

693, 032 

133,278 

49, 741 

122 

180 

28 

14 

6 

63,819 

2,086,8i0            1,664 
707,467  il            607 
138,955                 94 
51,261    ,              44 

85,312 

13,935 

Felt  goods 

5,677 

Wool  hats 

66.766                    7                 1.1.605 

1.520 









:! 



Total 

Worsted  goods. . . 
Woolen  goods  . . . 
Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


wage-earners.  INCLUDING   PIECEWORKERS. 


Total. 


Greatest 
number  em- 
ployed at  any 
onetime  dur- 
ing the  year. 


Least  num- 
ber employed 
at  any  one 
time  during 
the  year. 


181,719 


81,511 

64,036 

30, 175 

3,085 

2,912 


139, 915 


60,489 

49, 848 

26, 734 

2, 335 

1,509 


Average 
number. 


Wages. 


Men,  16  years  and  over.    Women,  16  years  and  over. ;  Children,  under  16  years. 


Average 
number. 


Wages. 


159,108  !    857,933,817 


83,371       $36,412,872 


Average 
number. 


64, 141 


68,893 

67,008 

28,411 

2,688 

2,108 


24, 757, 006 

20, 092, 738 

11,121,383 

1,024,835 

937,865 


40,601 

25, 595 

13, 860 

1,967 

1,358 


16, 913, 731 

11,300,071 

6,651,180 

820, 637 

727, 253 


24,535 

25,829 

12,468 

658 

651 


Wages. 


$19,549,423 


7,218,087 

7,831,109 

4,113.142 

191,090 

195, 995 


Average 
number. 


Wages. 


11,596  1 


3,757 

5,684 
2,083 


81,971,522 

625, 188 

961,358 

367, 061 

13,108 

U,607 


PERSONS  EMPLOYED:  WAGE-EARNERS,   INCLUDING   PIECEWORKERS. 


.\verage  number  employed  during  each  month. 


Men,  16  years  and  over. 


January.     February. 


March. 


April. 


June. 


July. 


August. 


September. 


October. 


November. 


December. 


Total. 

Worsted  goods . . 

Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


81,027 


24, 947 
39,214 

13,828 
1,929 
1,109 


82,900 


83,064 


82,763 


82, 757 


84,623 


86,224 


86,610 


86,383 


24,292 

39, 772 

13, 915 

1,931 

1,200 


24,876 

40,930 

13,865  i 

1,976 

1,2.53 


25,299 

41,092 

13,428 

1,912 

1,333 


25,389 

40,361 

13,783 

1,921 

1,309 


25,047 

39, 532 

13,837 

1,898 

1,388 


25, 161 

38,839 

13,923 

1,901 

1,445 


25, 616 

39, 714 

13, 916 

2,003 

1,608 


I 


26,022 

40,898 

14,018 

2,050 

1,635 


26,719 

41,900 

14,048 

2,011 

1,546 


26,728 
42,502 
14,100 

1,976 
1,305 


27,C'« 
42,438 
13,659 

1.977 
1,265 


PERSONS   EMPLOYED:   WAGE-EARNERS,   INCLUDING   PIECEWORKERS— continued. 


Average  number  employed  during  each  month — Continued. 


Women,  16  years  and  over. 


January. 


Total. 


61,, =121 


Worsted  goods 

Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


24,100 

24,001 

12,285 

659 

476 


February. 


62,201 


24, 578 

23,964 

12,521 

640 

498 


March. 


63,314 


24,947 

24, 676 

12, 498 

665 

528 


April. 


63,351 


25.322 

24,750 

12,082 

634 

663 


May. 


June. 


63,267 


25, 691 

24,491 

12.331 

664 

574 


25, 675 

23, 934 

12,368 

663 

627 


July. 


62,951 

25, 493 

23,603 

12, 497 

672 

786 


August. 


63,699 

25,839 

23,792 

12,561 

646 

861 


September. 


64,891 


26,072 

24,658 

12,604 

662 

895 


October. 


66,614 

26,882 
25,454 
12,641 


November. 


67,337 

27,596 

25,720 

12,792 

662 

567 


December. 


66,906 

27,75» 

26,477 

12. 436 

670 

569 


WOOL.  131 

Tabie  ao.— wool  manufactures  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SUMMARY  BY  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


Total 

Wor.^tcd  gccd.s  .. 
Woolen  goods. . . 
Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


PERSONS  employed;  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers— Continued. 


Avera?e  number  employed  during  each  month — Continued. 


Children,  under  16  years. 


January. 


11,031 


5, 323 

3, 564 

1,991 

69 

84 


February. 


11,364 


March. 


11,435 


5, 477 

3,644 

2,093  I 

68 

82 


,').429 

3,757 

2.091 

69 

89 


April. 


5,483 

3,738 

2,048 

74 

94 


May. 


11,633 


5,567 

3,709 

2,088 

70 


June. 


6,503 

3,699 

2,083 

76 

96 


July. 


5,553 

3,731 

2,115 

73 

107 


August.     September, 


11,619 


5,577 

3,732 

2,113 

70 

127 


11,837 


6,700 

3,818 

2,121 

74 

124 


October. 


11,814 


5,721 

3,840 

2,063 

73 

117 


NoTember. 


11,999 


6,829 

3,922 

2, 079 

82 

87 


December. 


12,047 


5,846 

3,930 

2,111 

78 

82 


Total  . 


Worsted  goods.  .. 

Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs. 

Felt  goods . 

Wool  hats 


SKILLED  operatives  (AVERAGE   NUMBER) 


Spinners. 


Weavers. 


Men,  16 
yeais 
and 
over. 

number. 


Women, 

16  years 

and'  over, 

number 


8,168 


1,995 

5,619 

486 

68 


,139 


4,852 
1,137 
1,150 


Men,  16 
Children,    years 
under  16  I    and 
years,       over, 
number,     num- 
ber. 


2,559 


Women, 

16  years 

and"  over, 

number. 


24,258 


1,580  7,426 

790  I  10,881 

185  I  6.836 

4  ■  115 


Children, 
under  16 

years, 
number. 


22,667 


6,194 

11,812 

4,443 

118 


62 
103 
34 


Knit- 
ters. 


Finishers. 


.Men.  16 
years 
and 
over, 

nuni-     number, 
ber. 


Men,  16 

years 

and  over. 


Women, 

16  years 

and  over, 

number. 


8,296 


2,789 

4,625 

516 

149 

217 


Children, 
under  16 

years, 
number. 


6,938 


2,932 

2,793 

1,018 

95 

100 


341 


78 
180 


MACHINERY. 


Sets  of 
woolen 
cards. 


6,605 


685 
5,010 
468 
302 
140 


Combing  machines. 


Total 
number. 


Of  Amer- 
ican man- 
ufacture. 


1,194 
123 
134 


Of  for- 
eign man- 
ufacture. 


337 


214 
46 


46 

88 


MACHINERY — 

continued 

Spindles. 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods. 

Total 
number. 

Spinning. 

Doubling. 

Total 
number. 

Broad  (50  inches 

or  over— reed 

space). 

Narrow  (50  inches 

or  over— reed 

space) . 

Hand. 

Woolen. 

Worsted. 

Cotton. 

Woolen. 

Worsted. 

Cotton. 

On 
woolen 
goods. 

On 
worsted 
goods. 

On 
woolen 
goods. 

On 
worsted 
goods. 

On  wool- 
en or 
worsted 
goods. 

Total 

3,511,099 

1,935,527 

980,835 

147,524 

96,501 

344,420 

7,292 

63,294 

22,364 

16,710 

14,220 

9,920 

80 

1,371,026 

1,906,581 

209,206 

24,286 

133.  .604 

1,714,952 

63,836 

23,235 

812.730 
40, 914 
97,191 

91, 152 

50,276 

6,096 

16,522 
74, 731 
3,197 
1,051 

282, 914 
24,848 
36,658 

4,204 

860 

2,228 

26,372 

34,881 

1,757 

284 

2,240 

19,056 

797 

271 

14  699 

OMI             H  AM 

2 

Woolen  goods 

1,994  1      12,656          1,143 
17  1              609                295 

32 

46 

Felt  goods 

12                       1 

Wool  hats 

' 

1 

MACHINERY — Continued. 

Looms  on  carpets  and  rugs. 

Total 
num- 
ber. 

Ingrain. 

Broad  ingrain. 

Venetian. 

Tapestry 
Brussels. 

Tapes- 
try vel- 
vet. 

Body 
Brus- 
sels. 

Wilton.  A-min- 

Mo- 
quette. 

Wilton .  Tapes- 
rug,    try  rug. 

Smyrna  rug. 

Hand. 

Power. 

Hand. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Power. 

Hand. 

Power. 

Total          .             

10,896 

99 

4,386 

1 

: 
246  i             80 

1,094 

737 

647 

507 

611 

160 

22 

3 

966 

1,358 

142 
10,754 

92 

32 
4,354 

103 

644 

Carpets  and  rugs 

1 

246  i            «n 

1,094 

737 

507 

611 

160 

22             3 

955 

1,358 

132  MANUFACTURES. 

Table  30.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SU.\L\IAKY  BY  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


Total. 


Worsted  goods  . . . 

Woolen  good,s 

Carpets  and  rugs. 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


MACHiNEKY — Continued. 


Formers  for 
fur  hats. 


504 


500 
..... 


Braiders. 


14,958 


2,830 
12, 128 


Knitting  machines. 


Total 
number. 


Spring  beard  needle. 


Circular, 
ribbed. 


Circular, 
plain. 


110 


Latch  needle. 


Flat,  plain. 


Full  fash- 
ioned, flat 
ribbed. 


Circular, 
ribbed. 


Circular, 
plain. 


Circular, 

hosiery. 

automatic. 


Hand  and 
other  vari- 
ety, plain. 


Total 

Worsted  goods... 
Woolen  goods  ... 
Carpels  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


MISCELLANEOUS   E.XPENSE.S. 


Total. 


$17, 329, 932 


6,767,611 

7, 268, 634 

2,7.51,879 

356,164 

185,644 


Rent  of 
works. 


8845, 778 


286, 920 

365, 171 

162,657 

16.140 

14, 890 


Taxes,  not 
inehiding 
internal 
revenue. 


81,161,596 


380,210 
566,452 
178, 469 
28, 391 
8,074 


Rent  of  oEBces, 

interest, 
insurance,  etc. 


813, 573, 336 


5, 121,  974 

5, 880,  517 

2,096,532 

311,633 

162, 680 


Contract 

V/OTk. 


81, 749, 222 


978,  .507 
456, 494 
314, 221 


MATERIALS  USED. 


Aggregate 
cost. 


$181,159,127 


77, 075, 222 

71,011,9.% 

27, 228, 719 

3,801,028 

2, 042, 202 


Purchased  in  raw  state. 


$97,171,551 


II 


46,274,155 

38, 838, 138 

8,783,166 

2, 399, 926 

876, 169 


Foreign  in  condition 
purchased. 


Pounds. 


136,434,961        $28,835,967 


57, 263, 393 

22,  .521, 954 

51,761,523 

4,248,880 

639, 211 


15, 159, 048 

4,  .598. 624 

8,077,420 

782, 224 

218, 651 


Total . 


Worsted  goods  . . . 

Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs  . 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


MATERIALS  USED — Continued. 


Purchased  in  raw  state — Continued . 


Wool — Continued. 


Domestic  in  condition 
purchased. 


Foreign 
and  domes- 
tic, etc.. 
scoured. 


Pounds. 


257,934,562 


$61,057,383 


122.714,543 

127, 678, 662 

109.811 

5, S57. 383 

2, 074, 163 


Cost. 


29.147,093 

29,899,065 

26,687 

1,414,216 

.570,  322 


Pounds. 


238,632,452 


103, 338, 616 

89, 366, 903 

37, 560, 231 

6, 468. 097 

1,898,605 


Animal  hair  and  fur. 


Camel,  alpaca,  and 
vicuna  hair. 


Pounds. 


2,536,296 


$530,225 


1,742,  .573 

238, 247 

457, 476 

98,000 


Cost. 


391,332 
34,337 
71,2,t6 
33,300 


Mohair 


Pounds. 


3,048,146 


$1,439,288 


1.905,967 

1,117,179 

2.5,000 


Cost. 


972, 207 

459,831 

7,250 


ButTalo,  cow.  and  other 
animal  hair  and  fur. 


Pounds. 


29,085,363 


8.55, 898 
19,679,181 
5,707,281 
2,721,521 

121,482 


Cost. 


$1,821,559 


79,960 

1.090,796 

471, 104 

92, 503 

87, 196 


Cotton. 


Bales. 


99,0.54 

12,079 

80.725 

3,813 

2,437 


Pounds. 


43, 414,  .502 

5,276,7.51 

34,967.959 

1,943,912 

1,225,850 


Cost. 


S3,4«7,132 


521,515 

2, 755. 485 

129,449 

77,683 


Total 

Worsted  goods . . 

Woolen  goods 

Carpels  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


MATERIALS  USED — Continued. 


Purchased  in  partially  manufactured  form. 

Materials  not  made  in  mill. 

Total  cost. 

Shoddy. 

Wool  waste  and  noils. 

Camel,  alpaca,  and 
vicuna  noils. 

Mohair  noils. 

Tops. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

Pounds. 

Cost. 

$62,219,766 

34,496,508 

84,195,744 

21,114,539 

$5,034,204 

326,496 

$60,933 

114,762 

$25,749 

5,865,566 

$3,022,974 

23,250,097 

21,250.276 

15,945,010 

89''  9"3 

1,807,827 

31,228,940 

744.233 

712,373 

3,135 

303,644 

3,767,192 

43,555 

80, 737 

616 

1,88.5,867 

13, 473. 1.54 

2,238,946 

2, 653, 590 

862,982 

5.58,494 

3, 249, 982 

301.944 

552  992 

55,679 
185, 909 
84,908 

12,8.56 

44, 450 

3,627 

"'"lis,"  662' 
1,200 

"""25,587' 
162 

5,260,775 

305,333 

200,000 

99.4.58 

2,701,582 
103,964 
96.000 
61,428 

881,410 

370,792 



WOOL.  133 

Table  30.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SUMMARY  15Y  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


Total. 


Worsted  goods... 

Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs. 
Felt  goods 


MATERIALS  USED — Continued. 


Purchased  in  partially  manufactured  form— Continued. 


Yams  not  made  in  mill. 


Woolen. 


Pounds. 


38,903,178 


2, 847, 091 

3,059,771 

32,996,316 


S7, 705, 797 


1,402,189 
1,272,954 
5, 030, 664 


Worsted. 


Pounds. 


34,377,736 


18, 896, 863 

6,214,076 

9,218,267 

48,630 


Cost. 


$23,068,988 


14,704,172 

4,791,079 

3,544,860 

28, 877 


Merino. 


Pounds. 


3, 904, 515 


419,434 

3,21.5.245 

237, 970 

31,866 


Cost. 


S709,894 


147, 891 

516,636 

38,994 

6,373 


Cotton. 


Pounds. 


55,217,994 


13, 420, 590 

21, 922, 136 

19,823,561 

51,707 


Cost. 


89, 568, 864 


3,032,039 

3,782,240 

2, 744. 928 

9,657 


Pounds.  Co.st. 


70,073  8334,001 


26,418 

34,007 

9,634 

14 


144,971 

145,514 

43,456 

61 


Total  . 


Worsted  goods  . . . 
Woolen  goods  . . .. 
Carpets  and  rugs  . 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


MATERIALS  USED — Continued. 


Purchased  in  partially  manufactured  form — Continued. 


Yarns  not  made  in  mill — Continued. 


Spun  silk. 


Pounds.     Cost. 


250, 270 


8489,637  8,415,275 


47,  .533 
23, 957 
178,780 


Linen. 


Pounds. 


166,672  1,314 

72,632l        7,845 

2.50,233  8,388,211 

I      17,905 


Jute,  ramie,  or  other 
vegetable  Iiber. 


Cost.         Pounds. 


$1,178,414 


39, 965, 180 


1.052 

6,998 

1,164,826 

5,538 


82,633,413 


1, 118,  767 
38, 846, 413 


57, 384 
2,476,029 


Shoddy  made  in  the 
mill  for  use  therein. 


Pounds. 


37, 000, 000 


82, 873, 886 


35, 626, 165 

125,000 

1, 248, 835 


Cost. 


2,  817, 663 
6,125 
50,098 


Wool-hat 

bodies  and 

hats  in  the 

rough. 


Dozs.       Cost. 


4,939   $13,920 


4,939 


Fur-hat  bodies 
and  hats  in 
the  rough. 


Lbs.       Cost. 


8,500 


$21, 982 


13,920      8,500 


Another 
materials 

which 
are  com- 
ponents 

of  the 
products. 


Cost. 


$1,381,466 


74,536 
636, 001 
199,618 

97,212 
474, 100 


Total 

Worsted  goods... 
Woolen  goods  ... 
Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 


MATERIALS  USED — Continued. 


Soap. 


Pounds. 


36,136,693 


Cost. 


$1,379,886 


Oil  for  preparing  wool 
for  cards  or  combs. 


Gallons. 


3,501,582 


13,486,089 

485,397 

488,  703 

18,758,003 

742,528 

2,467,865 

2,696,173 

90,271 

465,731 

96,S,  495 

51,760 

77,553 

227, 833 

9,930 

1.730 

Cost. 


Chemicals 
and  dye- 
stuffs. 


81,039,679     $7,983,684 


221,981 
693, 228 
103, 671 
20, 232 
667 


2,627,140 

3,968,020 

1,151,726 

128, 296 

108,502 


Fuel. 


Cost. 


83, 652, 162 


1,226,938 

1,795,286 

469.  913 

110, 355 

49, 670 


Rent  of 

power  and 

heat. 


Cost. 


$206,326 


79,338 

102, 131 

22.881 

1,976 


Mill  sup- 
plies. 


Cost. 


$1,406,856 


564.150 
655,338 
138, 181 
39, 446 
9,741 


All  other 
materials. 


Cost. 


$4,323,321 


1,818,608 

1, 983, 130 

366, 761 

91,629 

63,193 


Freight. 


Cost 


$1,775,893 


527, 418 
983,881 
157, 139 
64,435 
43,020 


Cotton 
yarn  made 
in  mill  for 
use  therein. 


Pounds. 


7,733,291 


3,237,131 
2, 783,  739 
1,712,421 


PRODUCTS. 

All-wool  woven  good.s,  whether  woolen  or  worsted. 

Value. 

Wool  cloths,  etc. 

Worsted  coatings,  etc. 

Woolen  overcoatings,  etc.  |  Worsted  overcoatings,  etc. 

1 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value.       Square  yards. 

Value. 

$296,990,484 

34,561,266 

$2'2,860,783 

54,033,679 

843, 003, 550 

18,732,922 

816,135,436 

877,133 

$867,390 

120,314,344 

118.430.158 

48. 192. 361 

6.461,691 

3.591,940 

3,682,788 
30,715,638 

2,508,918 
20,136,951 

50, 204.  .572 
3,829,107 

39,562,773 
3,450,777 

1,718,008 

1 .  7a5  646 

16  e,9n 

7,778 
559,612 

Woolen  goods 

17,011,186          14,426,064               860,443 

Felt  goods                 

252,840 

214,914 

3,728                  3,727 

Wool  hats 

1 

184 

Table  30.— WOOL 


MANUFACTURES. 

MANUFACTURES  (EXCULDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):   SUMMARY  BY  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


Total. 


Worsted  goods . 
Woolen  goods.. 
Felt  goods 


Total. 


Worsted  goods  . . . 

Woolen  goods 

Caipetsond  rugs. 
Felt  goods 


PRODUCTS — continued. 


All-wool  woven  goods,  whether  woolen  or  worsted— Continued. 


Wool  dress goods.etc., and 
opera  and  similar  flan- 
nels. 


Square 
yards. 


33,597,692 


3,820,974 

30,273,238 

3,480 


Value. 


$12, 978, 546 

1,598,459 

11,378,030 

2,057 


Worsted  dress  ^oods,  cash-  |  Carriage  cloths  of  all 
meres,  buntings,  etc. .  weights. 


Square 
yards. 


57, 712, 086 


54, 480, 569 
3,231,517 


Value. 


?16,316,392 


14, 994, 513 
1,321,879 


Square 
yards. 


1,220,408 


1,220,408 


Value. 


S696,999 


Fannels  for  underwear. 


Square 
yards. 


9,345,556 


9,324,720 
20,886 


Value. 


82,352,086 


2,344,559 
7,527 


Blankets. 


Square 
yards. 


5,465,277 

187,530 

5,206,643 

11,104 


Value. 


$2,325,307 


PRODUCTS — continued. 


AH-wool  woven  goods,  whether  woolens  or  worsted — Cont'd. 


Horse  blankets. 


I'^lll':  I  v'^'-- 


518,452    8259,221 


514,952 

"z.'sbb' 


266,211 


3,010 


Carriage  robes. 


Square 
yards. 


Value. 


28,979  j    817,877 


615 
28,364 


510 
17, 367 


Woven  shawls. 


Square 
yards. 


87,902 
512,202 


Value. 


8.500,523 


72, 248 
428, 275 


Union  or  cotton  mixed,  woven  goods. 


Unions,  tweeds,  etc. 


Square 
yards. 


30,767,915 


813,695,830 


1,179,014 
29,588,901 


Value. 


880,441 
12,815,389 


Overcoatings,  etc. 


Square 
yards. 


6, 087, 366 


411, 902 
5,675,464 


83,518,613 


353,864 
3,164,749 


Sackings,  tricots, 
etc.,  and  opera 
and  similar  flan- 
nels. 


Square 
yards. 


11,176,752 


Value. 


83,669,584 


1,071,204  .      328,243 
10,105,518     3,341,341 


PRODUCTS— continued. 


Union  or  cotton-mixed  woven  good? — Continued. 


Flannels  for  underwear. 


Square 
vards. 


Blankets. 


Square 
yards. 


Value. 


Horse  blankets. 


Square 
yards. 


Value. 


Carriage  robes. 


Square 
yards. 


Goods  woven  on  cotton 
warps,  with  weft  partly 
or  wholly  of  wool,  wor- 
sted, or  of  hair  {or  cot- 
ton weft  with  warp  of 
wool). 


Wool  filling,  cassimeres, 
etc. 


Square 
yards. 


Value. 


Total. 


Worsted  goods  . 
Woolen  goods. . 


81,284,578 


1,530,696 


8561,649 


1,094,537 


3228,943 


460, 210 


8152,499 


811,024,538 


6,217,094- 


1,530,696 


561, 649 


1,094,537 


228,.943 


460,210 


2,073,990 
35,086,459 


1,356,735 
9,667,803 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps,  with  weft  partly  or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted,  hair  (or  cotton  weft  with  warp  of  wool)— Continued. 

Worsted  filling  cassimeres, 
etc. 

Wool  filling  overcoatings            latrakhans  etc 
and  cloakings.                    Astraknnns,  etc. 

Satinets  and  linseys. 

Worsted     filling     dress 
goods,  etc. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value.        Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Totfl  1 

12,663,719 

87,267,508 

3,917,498 

81,430,430                32,576 

814,150 

13,051,729 

82,873,181 

45,784,011 

810,423,206 

10,540,927 
2,122,792 

6,401,491 
866,017 

39, 611,  .517 
6, 172, 491 

8,466.106 

3,917,498 

1,430,430                32,576 

14,150 

13,051,729 

2,873,181 

1,957,100 

WOOL.  135 

Table  30.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SUMMARY  BY  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps,  with  weft  partly  or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted,  or  hair  (or  cotton  weft  with  warp  of  wool)— 

Continued. 

Wool  filling,  dress  goods, 
and  repellants. 

Domett     flannels    and 
shirtings. 

Linings,  Italian  cloths, 
etc. 

Cotton-warp  blankets. 

Horse  blankets. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Total 

7,496,898 

$1,890,488 

4,555,013 

$976,465 

10,157,039 

$2,228,434 

11,159,532 

$2,314,003 

5,702,315 

$1,252,824 

347,882 
7,149,016 

155,042 
1,735,446 

6,987,330 
3,169,709 

1,953,139 
275,295 

4,555,013 

976,465 

11,107,104 
62,428 

2,241,342 
72,661 

5,702,316 

1,252,824 

Felt  goods  . 

i     

PRODUCTS— continued. 

Goods  woven  on  cot- 
ton warps,  with  weft 
partly  or  wholly  of 
wool,  wor.sted.or  of 
hair  ^or  cotton  weft 
with  warpof  wool)— 
continued. 

Upholstery  goods  and  sundries. 

Carpets  and  rugs. 

Carpets. 

Carriage  robes. 

Woolen  and  worsted 
uphoistery  goods. 

Other  up- 
holstery 
goods. 

Ingrain,  2-ply. 

Ingrain,  3-ply. 

Ingrain. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Total 

1,250,900 

$816,733 

641,909 

$786,461 

$2,922,8.50 

36,800,494 

$13,250,801 

3,223,100 

$1,146,653 

2,328,906 

$1,007,627 

43,614 

403,954 

94,341 

62,130 
679,991 
44,340 

■       454,995 

2,062,611 

405,244 

1,250,233 
667 

816,233 
1,500 

102,202 
36,698,292 

28,144 
13,222,657 

543 
3,222,567 

380 
1,146,273 

Carpets  and  rugs 

2,328,906 

1,007,627 

PRODUCTS— continued. 

Carpets  and  rugs— Continued. 

Carpets— Continued. 

Tapestry  Brussels. 

Body  Brussels. 

Tapestry  velvet. 

Wilton    and  Wilton 
velvet. 

Axminster. 

Moquette. 

Running 

yards  of 

27  inches 

wide. 

Value. 

Running 

yards  of 

27  inches 

wide. 

Value. 

Running 

yards  of 

27  inches 

wide. 

Value. 

Running 

yards  of 

27  inches 

wide. 

Value. 

Running 

yards  of 

27  inches 

wide. 

Value. 

Running 

yards  of 

27  inches 

wide. 

Value. 

Total 

11,649,932 

$5,520,665 

3,581,991 

$2,979,867 

5,706,754  ! 

.3, 743, 353 

4,782,836 

$4,030,842 

5,074,961 

$3,637,001 

1, 627, 410 

$1,126,268 

11,649,932 

5, 520, 665 

3,581,991 

2, 979, 867 

f,  706  7.'i4 

3,743,353 

4,782,835 

4,030,842 

5,074.961 

3,637,001 

1,627,410 

1,126,268 

PRODUCTS — continued. 

Carpets  and  rugs— Continued. 

Rugs. 

Tapestry. 

Wilton. 

Moquette  and  Ax- 
minster. 

Ingrain. 

Smyrna  carpets   and 
rugs. 

Other  rugs. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Total 

18,760 

$9,000 

339, 784 

«S4fi-  967 

327,598 

$342,262 

393,417 

$168, 324 

3,661,661 

$3,680,618 

5,115,605 

$2,394,524 

Carpeta  and  ruga 

18,750 

9,000 

339,784  ''    545,967 

327,598 

342,262 

393,417 

168,324 

3,681,661 

3,680,618 

5,111,173!      2,391,434 

Felt  goods  . 

4.832  1            3.090 

136 

Table  30.— WOOL 


MANUFACTURES. 

MANUFACTURES  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SUMMARY  BY  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

Felt  goods. 

Felt  cloths. 

Endless  belts. 

Boot  and  shoe  linings. 

Hair  felting. 

Trimming  and  lining      All  other 
felts,  felt  skirts,  etc.           felts. 

1 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value.           Value. 

Total                

2,169,061 

$599,961 

1,114,357 

$1,084,835 

1,052,638 

$540,110 

125,000 

856,950 

2,472,568 

$797,093  !    $2,285,340 

113,059 

51,418 

2,738 

375 

8,029 

15,393 

2,056,662 

548,543 

1,114,357 

1,084,835 

1,052,538 

640,110 

125,000 

56,950 

2,469,830 

796,718 

2,261,918 

Total. 


Worsted  goods 

"Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs. 

Feltgoods 

Wool  hats 


PRODUCTS — continued. 


Wool  hats. 


823,425 


$3, 166, 761 


12,000 
"8ii,'425 


Value. 


3, 161, 361 


Dozens. 


43,994 


$285,705 


285,705 


Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale. 


Woolen  yarn  all  wool. 


Pounds. 


33,812,065 


3,556,375 

29,143,476 

1,073,214 

39,000 


Value. 


$7,076,883 


1,052,808 

5, 752, 118 

252, 857 

18,400 


Worsted  yarn  and  tops. 


Pounds. 


45, 780, 272 


41,659,360 
1,343,983 
2,776,929 


Value. 


29,358,066 

723,369 

1,090,036 


Woolen  or  worsted 
yarn,  union  or 
merino,  cotton 
mixed. 


Mohair  and  similar 
yam. 


Pound,*.         Value. 


15,984,667   $4,673,012 


Pounds.     Value. 


1,004,113  i  $924,344 


2,  .537, 303  1,903,639 

13,437,264  2,764,486 

10,000  ,    4,887 


788,166  i 
216,947 


705. 211 
219, 133 


Total. 


Worsted  goods  . . . 

Woolen  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs. 
Felt  goods 


PRODUCTS— continued. 


Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale — Continued. 


Cotton  yarn. 


Pounds. 


3,631,992 


76, 013 
3, 455,  979 


Value. 


$627,046 


19,760 
507,286 


Wool  card  rolls. 


Pounds.       Value. 


977,706 


977, 706 


395, 808 


Noils. 


Pounds.        Value. 


12,851,031 


12, 052, 814 
124,  029 
674, 188 


$3,474,318 


3, 336, 261 
18,936 
120, 131 


PRODUCTS— CO 

ntinued. 

Partly  manufactured 
products  for  sale — 
Continued. 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods. 

No.  14.   Wool-hat  bod- 
ies and  hats  in  the 
rough. 

Hose  and  half  hose. 

Woolen. 

Merino  or  mixed. 

Cotton. 

Half  hose. 

Hose. 

Half  hose. 

Hose. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

56,006 

$120,262 

3,438 

$11,714 

82$ 

$3,122 

852 

$1,806 

80 

$180 

3,438 

11,714 

828 

3,122 

862 

1,806 

80 

180 

Wool  hats  

56,'006 

120,262 

1 

WOOL. 


137 


Table  30.— WOOL  MANUFACTURES  (EXCLUDING  HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS):  SUMMARY  BY  CLASSES,  1900— Cont'd. 


PRODUCTS— continued. 

Hosiery  and  knit  gooc^s— Continued. 

leggings  and  gaiters. 

! 

Boot  and  shoe  lin- 
ings. 

Jersey  cloth  and 
stockinette. 

Gloves  and  mittens.            Eiderdown. 

AM  otner 
products. 

Contract 
work. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

Dozens. 

Value. 

Square 
yards. 

Value. 

Value. 

Value. 

Total                       .  . 

11,420 

SS,800 

2,784 

$1,010 

207 

«1,656 

1,238 

$4,641       361,000 

$126,403 

$5,748,109 

$1,613,054 

Worsted  goods 

1,077,474 

1,190,662 

2, 648, 205 

831,327 

411 

793,338 
775. 445 
20,100 

Woolen  goods 

11,420 

8,800 

2,784 

1,010 

207 

1,656 

1,238 

4,64i       36i,666 
.   .   .  .          i 

126,403 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hats 

1 

24,171 

COMPARISON  OF  PRODUCTS. 

POWER. 

Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments 
reporting 
for  both 
years. 

Census  year 
1900. 

Preceding 

business 

year. 

Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments re- 
porting. 

Total 
horse- 
power. 

Owned. 

Engines. 

Water  wheels. 

Electric 
motors. 

Steam. 

Gasorgasoline. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Num- 
ber. 

Horse- 
power. 

Total 

1,163 

$277,335,465 

.'227,326,132 

1,398 

274,262 

1,525 

186,252 

17 

446 

1,161 

79,056 

89 

2,697 

3 

9 

861 
145 

114 
25 

109,712,214 

113, 635, 037 

46,886.929 

3, 867, 905 

3,234,380 

95,443,073 

85, 483, 346 

40,191,460 

3, 416,  320 

2. 791 . 9aH 

1,024 
185 
127 
36 
21 

139,645 
97,383 
26,932 
7,973 
2,329 

893 

399 

155 

52 

26 

82,933 

73,180 

23,091 

5,129 

12 

4 
1 

191 

220 

35 

954 
147 

22 

29 

9 

52,358 

20,491 

3,145 

2,667 

405 

51 

26 

5 

6 

1 

1,217 

1,161 

192 

132 

5 

2 

1 

4 

5 

Worsted  goods                   ... 

Carpet.-*  and  rugs 

Felt  goods 

Wool  hat.s 

18 

1,919 

1 

1 

pow  ER — continued. 

Rented. 

Furnished 
to  other 
establish- 
ments. 

E>eetriJ     Other 

Total 
number 

of 
establish- 
ments. 

No 
em- 
ployees. 

Under  5. 

5  to  20. 

21  to  50. 

.51  to  100. 

101  to  280. 

251  to  600. 

601  to 
1,000. 

Over 

Horse- 
power. 

Horse- 
power. 

Horse- 
power. 

1,000. 

Total 

4,798 

1,004 

1,044 

1,414 

115 

193 

193 

206 

243 

282 

115 

46 

22 

2,942 

28« 

260 

484 

14 

1,035 
186 

186 
1 
2 
1 

158 
10 
18 
6 
1 

146 
17 
33 

4 

155 
42 
30 
13 

3 

194 
53 
20 
10 
5 

61 

28 

19 

2 

19 

23 

3 

2 
12 
8 

1,801 

535 
469 

Car] "Is  and  r\lgs 

133 
36 
24 

Felt  Kiiods 

55 

Wool  hats 

1 

1 

138 


MANUFAC^JXn^ES. 


Table  31 WOOLEX  GOODS: 


44 
46 
46 
47 
48 
49 
60 
81 
52 
63 
54 

65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
66 
66 


Number  of  estaWishments 

Chanicter  of  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership. 

Incorporated  company 

Capital : 


Total . 


Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implement? 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  othcials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  n  umber 

Total  sa  In ries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  durin,t?  the  year. 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 


Wages 


Men,  16  years  and  over- 
Average  number 

Wages ■ 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages ■ 

Children,  under  16  years- 
Average  niunber 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during  each 
month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Janiiary 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

Sept  ember 

October 

November 

December 

Women.  16  years  and  over- 
January  

February : 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July  

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January  

February  

March 

April 

May  

Juiie 

July  

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 

Spinners — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women. '16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Weavers- 
Men.  16  years  and  over 

Women.  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Knitters- 
Men.  16  years  and  over 

Finishers- 
Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women.  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards 

Combing  maehines.  number 

Of  .\merican  manufacture 

Of  f'  ireiijii  manufacture 

Spindles,  number 


United  States. 


Woolen  . 
Worsted. 
Cotton  . . 


1,035 

426 
298 
311 

$124,  ,S86, 262 

87, 94,S.  126 

S17,760,364 

828, 703, 473 

869.974,299 

822 

2, 246 
S2, 934, 018 

402 
$S17, 208 

1  844 
82,086i840 

1,664 
82,001,628 

180 
885, 312 

81,511 

60,489 

68, 893 

$24, 757. 006 

40, 601 
$16, 913, 731 

24, 635 
$7,218,087 

3,757 
$625, 188 


39, 214 
39.  772 
40, 930 
41,092 
40, 361 
39, 632 
38, 839 
39, 714 
40. 898 
41, 900 
42.502 
42,438 

24.001 
23,964 
24, 676 
24, 750 
24, 491 
23, 934 
23, 503 
23,  792 
24, 658 
25,4.54 
25. 720 
25. 477 

3,564 
3,644 
3,757 
3,738 
3,709 
3.,  699 
3,731 
3,  732 
3,818 
3,840 
8,922 
3,930 


5,619 

1,137 

790 

10,881 

11, 812 

103 


4,625 

2,793 

180 

5,010 

123 

77 

46 

1,906.  .5.81 

1,  714, 952 
40,914 
50,276 


Alabama. 


6 
3 
2 

897,7.59 
$2, 175 
$14,795 
$31, 723 
$49,0<»i 
13 

2 

81, 820 


Arkansas. 


2 

81,820 


2 
81,820 


116 

38 

75 

$10,458 

21 
$3,868 

51 
$6,395 

3 

8200 


4 
25 


160 
160 


13 


$43, 525 

82,855 

86,000 

$17,800 

816,870 

18 


3 
8903 


41 

33 

27 

85.1.58 

14 
$3,264 

11 
$1,661 

2 
8243 


California. 


81, 050, 474 

890,900 

$117, 935 

$270,348 

8571, 291 

1 

18 
$25,460 

6 
810, 100 

12 
$16,360 

12 
$15,360 


522 

387 

430 

8159, 825 

264 
$113, 826 

147 
843,012 

19 

$2,987 


234 
219 
269 
250 
250 
255 


Connecticut. 


282 
293 
299 
309 
224 

119 
105 
138 
146 
151 
147 
154 
167 
173 
175 
172 
117 

17 
16 
17 
15 
17 
21 
20 
20 
23 
22 
21 
18 


1,000 

960 


30 


15 
28 

$9,140,066 
8395. 966 
81.4.58.743 
82, 012. 192 
85, 273. 165 
46 

144 

8191.357 

44 
869,300 

100 
8122, 057 

94 
8119,734 

6 
$2,323 

5,628 

4,082 

4,668 

51,760,917 

3,  on 

$1,286,590 

1  4-48 
$448!  762 

149 
$29,565 


3,006 
3,025 
3,181 
3,128 
3,082 
2,833 
2,783 
2, 968 
3,127 
3,212 
3,248 
3,258 

1,433 
1,417 
1,497 
1,461 
1,447 
1,342 
1,347 
1,398 
1,442 
1,503 
1,537 
1,548 

163 
147 
156 
144 
147 
142 
133 
142 
145 
156 
160 
169 


379 
15 
6 


574 


10, 932 
10, 476 


344 
250 

12 

343 

32 

30 

2 

149,278 


12 


218 
000 
10.000 


WOOL. 


139 


BY  STATES,  1900. 


Georgia. 

•  Illinois. 

Indiana. 

Iowa. 

Kentuckj'. 

1 

Maine. 

Maryland. 

Massachu- 
setts. 

Michigan. 

Minnesota. 

Mississippi. 

Missouri. 

14 

13 

20 

12 

36 

76 

4 

131 

16 

19 

4 

25 

1 

8 

6 

5 

5 

20 

25 

1 

45 

7 

11 

2 

17 

2 

2 
4 

2 

5 

6 
9 

3 
4 

11 
5 

12 
39 

2 

1 

82 
51 

7 
2 

6 
2 

5 
3 

s 

2' 

4 

S4.W.114 

81.671,625 

81,849,263 

8494,074 

81,588,816 

812, 642, 0.58 

81,3.30,549 

833,196,903 

8775,609 

8762,825 

$315,700 

8490, 747 

5 

S32, 06.5 

8100,994 

8.57,375 

824, 990 

$:i2, 966 

$728,715 

828, 630 

$2,357,173 

$14,200 

8178,900 

$.5,400 

836, 135 

6 

SOI,  895 

8211,679 

82g«,799 

$67,  .8.50 

8157, 195 

$1,833,515 

8169, 177 

84,663,468 

$111,938 

$133,092 

$96,100 

$89, 4.50 

7 

«198. 185 

8367,731 

8625,997 

$143,  360 

8340,422 

82,759,9.54 

8171,663 

85, 706, 431 

$187,286 

$183, 005 

$107, 900 

$170,475 

8 

8102,  969 

8891,221 

8977,092 

8257,884 

81,068,244 

87,319,874 

8961,079 

320,469,831 

$462, 186 

8267,828 

$106,000 

$194, 687 

9 

1 

4 

12 

11 

18 

34 

6 

102 

16 

6 

2 

18 

10 

13 

.50 

58 

26 

20 

190 

26 

438 

23 

20 

5 

18 

11 

816, 936 

869,023 

868,148 

$16,611 

$-i8,972 

8241,988 

835,626 

$729,724 

$18,099 

$23,450 

$10,166 

820,928 

12 

3 

6 

15 

5 

9 

39 

3 

55 

3 

2 

2 

7 

13 

87,114 

812, 000 

824, 430 

81,320 

821,200 

869,115 

814, 100 

$203,875 

83,800 

811,000 

$2,000 

89,900 

14 

10 

44 

43 

21 

11 

1.51 

22 

383 

20 

18 

3 

11 

15 

89,822 

857,023 

813,718 

812,291 

87,772 

$172,873 

$21,525 

$525,849 

814,599 

812,450 

88,166 

$11,028 

16 

10 

40 

37 

19 

9 

140 

20 

326 

19 

16 

3 

9 

17 

89, 822 

8M,788 

839,712 

811,623 

86,69'2 

8167, 599 

$20, 401 

8496, 264 

814,365 

$10,960 

88,166 

$10,128 

18 

4 
82, 235 

6 
84,006 

2 
8768 

2 
$1, 080 

11 
$5,274 

2 
81,124 

57 
829,585 

1 
8234 

2 

$1,500 

2 
$900 

19 

20 

590 

883 

1,226 

295 

704 

7,746 

943 

21, 040 

441 

355 

332 

336 

21 

651 

637 

782 

242 

642 

6,086 

811 

14,966 

311 

305 

262 

219 

22 

601 

693 

1,0-18 

256 

618 

6,280 

877 

17,717 

337 

300 

30-2 

237 

23 

897,159 

8210,1.57 

8306,822 

864,. 596 

8144,874 

82,383,323 

$221,215 

86,823,051 

$108,168 

$90,062 

855,192 

363,314 

24 

284 

3r.s 

-432 

126 

149 

4,230 

576 

11,177 

193 

160 

146 

139 

25 

855,013 

8139, 831 

$169,875 

839,676 

850,350 

81,778,171 

$173,152 

84,803,450 

871,726 

$60, 196 

$34,869 

842,427 

26 

189 

290 

.571 

128 

364 

1,941 

204 

,5,865 

144 

119 

111 

79 

27 

831,720 

866, SSS 

$129,266 

824,647 

879,966 

8584, 122 

$38,011 

81,888,520 

836,442 

$27,081 

816,234 

818,298 

28 

88 
810,426 

275 

35 
83, 43S 

372 

45 

87,681 

396 

2 
8373 

106 
814,558 

125 

109 
$21,030 

97 
810, 052 

675 
8131,081 

21 
$3. 385 

46 
84,089 

19 
$2,589 

29 

30 

111 

4,245 

563 

11,027 

196 

127 

125 

67 

31 

274 

361 

410 

113 

125 

4,223 

557 

11,252 

201 

126 

139 

140 

32 

278 

360 

426 

112 

129 

4,303 

673 

11,511 

202 

135 

144 

149 

33 

288 

313 

423 

116 

139 

4,215 

585 

11,. 583 

188 

152 

147 

166 

34 

293 

366 

441 

120 

162 

4,081 

585 

10,988 

183 

180 

145 

186 

35 

291 

372 

430 

131 

170 

4,007 

5.S7 

11,008 

207 

174 

138 

187 

36 

290 

372 

403 

142 

175 

3,  S47 

597 

10,439 

198 

182 

140 

176 

37 

291 

390 

438 

138 

174 

4,124 

672 

10,413 

189 

169 

146 

169 

38 

293 

391 

465 

139 

162 

4,244 

583 

11,0.54 

189 

172 

156 

149 

39 

281 

399 

4.56 

130 

140 

4,448 

575 

11,399 

193 

170 

15.6 

123 

40 

272 

370 

457 

132 

154 

4,544 

563 

11, 662 

190 

168 

156 

45 

41 

279 

366 

438 

123 

137 

4,481 

568 

11,787 

180 

163 

158 

125 

42 

181 

296 

519 

122 

365 

1,924 

200 

5,781 

153 

98 

96 

64 

43 

181 

285 

.525 

124 

364 

1,908 

203 

5,933 

161 

96 

106 

85 

44 

185 

290 

557 

119 

364 

1,966 

208 

6,066 

168 

101 

110 

82 

45 

191 

243 

557 

121 

365 

1,961 

207 

6,079 

138 

119 

111 

74 

46 

195 

292 

579 

127 

365 

1,884 

202 

5,896 

126 

135 

109 

95 

47 

196 

287 

549 

133 

366 

1,863 

203 

5,,S32 

138 

133 

106 

95 

48 

197 

300 

561 

136 

366 

1,768 

201 

6,446 

142 

139 

107 

87 

49 

197 

309 

582 

134 

366 

1,897 

206 

5,269 

133 

125 

112 

88 

80 

195 

313 

635 

137 

346 

1,893 

208 

6,701 

143 

124 

118 

64 

61 

182 

311 

604 

126 

348 

2,019 

208 

6,023 

150 

121 

119 

63 

52 

182 

277 

606 

130 

376 

2, 102 

203 

6,167 

144 

123 

120 

59 

88 

183 

279 

886 

124 

377 

2,111 

202 

6,186 

137 

118 

122 

87 

64 

87 
89 
87 
91 

29 
29 
29 
31 

42 
46 
49 
37 

97 

97 

100 

102 

118 
123 
131 
139 

81 

85 

96 

104 

625 
668 
693 
703 

20 
20 
20 
23 

39 
43 
44 
45 

18 
18 
20 
22 

55 

56 

57 

i' 

58 

87 

30 

46 

5 

106 

100 

111 

693 

23 

44 

27 

59 

90 

31 

44 

5 

108 

■  105 

110 

685 

23 

42 

26 

60 

89 

32 

49 

5 

110 

86 

114 

6.52 

23 

44 

23 

61 

88 

39 

44 

5 

111 

93 

99 

621 

23 

45 

22 

62 

88 

40 

55 

5 

112 

83 

97 

682 

20 

47 

13 

63 

88 

40 

46 

1 

112 

98 

87 

689 

20 

48 

14 

64 

88 

42 

44 

1 

108 

95 

96 

695 

20 

49 

12 

65 

86 
77 

42 
31 

42 
23 

100 

77 

133 

480 

89 
96 

695 
1,467 

20 
33 

50 

14 

9 
17 

68 

14 

27 

67 

11 
66 

89 

30 
3 

102 

107 
21 

74 

6 

76 
1 

1,231 

8 
67 

115 

87 
67 

3,101 

17 

1 
1 

13 

11 

68 

is' 

19 

69 

17 

27 

15 

20 

70 

167 

57 

343 

40 

273 

699 

122 

3,014 

46 

101 

59 

79 

71 

10 

2 

' 

1 

6 

8 

1 

72 

1 
18 

73 

34 

33 

56 

12 

23 

485 

52 

1,.522 

29 

8 

21 

74 

6 

33 

17 

11 

2 

381 

22 

701 

15 

1 

9 

75 

2 
46 

2 

68 

4 
422 

59 
1,251 

2 
38 

76 

31 

86 

26 

47 

40 

26 

36 

77 

3 
3 

5 

19 

8 

11 

472,981 

78 

79 

5' 

168, 915 

80 

ii.'oos' 

i6,'i56' 

46,' Sm' 

9,' 552' 

2i,'2i5' 

i5,'828' 

ii.'iof 

9,' 524' 

i'gie' 

7,'762' 

81 

11,008 

15, 286 

39,608 

9,028 

20,871 

145,853 
6,984 
3,5*4 

16,798 

442,946 
8,352 

13,512 

8,978 

8,916 

7,523 

82 
83 

6,'.566' 

1,300 

84 

140 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  31.— WOOLEN  GOODS: 


99 
100 

101 
102 

103 
104 
106 
106 
107 
108 

109 
110 
111 
112 

113 


115 
116 
117 
118 
119 

120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 
128 

129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 
138 

139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 
148 
149 
150 
151 
152 
163 
154 
165 
156 
157 
168 
159 
160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 


Machinery— Continued. 

Spindles,  number — Coiuinuod. 
Doublinc— 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number. 
Broad,  .50  inches  or  over,  reed  space — 

On  Wni'icll  J.,'()o(ls 

On  worsttil  ^oo.ls 

Narrow,  umlcr  .SO  inches,  reed  space — 

t^n  woolen  K"ods 

On  worsted  goods 

Hand- 
On  woolen  or  worsted  goods 

Looms  on  carpets  and  rugs,  number 

Ingrain — 

Hand 

Power 

Body  Brussels- 
Power  

Formers  for  fur  hats 

Braiders 

Knitting  machines,  number  . .  

Spring-beard  needle — 

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Latch  needle — 

Flat,  plain  

Full  fashioned,  flat,  ribbed 

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Circular,  hosiery,  automatic 

Lamb  and  other  variety,  hand 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 


Total. 


Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  otRces,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto 
included. 

Contract  work 

Material  used: 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc.,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hair  and  fur- 
Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohai r,  pounds 

Cost 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds , 

Cost 

Cotton ,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials  not  made  in  mill — 

Shoddy,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Tops,  pounds 

Cost 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill — 

Woolen,  pounds 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Merino,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Co.st 

Jute,  ramie,  or  other  of  vegetable  liber,  pounds 

Cost 

Shoddy  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  product 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost : 

Oil  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuiTs 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Cotton  yarn  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 


United  States. 


74,731 

24,848 

860 

34,881 

19,056 
1,994 

12,6.56 
1,143 

32 
142 


32 

103 

.500 

12, 128 

157 

4 
110 


87, 268, 634 
8365, 171 
8566, 462 

86, 880, 517 

$456.  494 

871,011,9.56 

22,521,954 
84,598,624 
127, 678, 662 
829,  899, 065 
89, 366, 903 

238, 247 

834, 337 

1,117,179 

$459, 831 

19, 679,  LSI 

81,090,796 

80,  725 

34,967,959 

$2,  755, 485 

31,228,940 

83, 767, 192 

13,473.154 

$3, 249,  982 

185,909 

$44,4.50 

113,562 

$26,587 

305, 333 

$163, 964 

3, 059. 771 

$1,272,954 

6,214,076 

$4,791,079 

3,215,246 

8616,636 

21,922,136 

83, 782, 240 

34, 007 

8145.514 

23. 957 

872, 632 

7, 845 

$6, 998 

1,118,767 

857.384 

35,626.165 

82,817,663 

8536,001 

18,  758, 003 

$742, 528 

2,467,865 

$693,228 

$3,968,020 

$1,79.5,286 

$102,  131 

$6.55.  338 

$1,983,130 

$983,  881 

2, 783, 739 


Alabama.         Arkansas.       California.    I  Connecticut, 


88,091 
8113 
8231 

87, 647 

$100 
$43, 078 


129,041 

$24,511 

68, 465 


40 
20,000 
$2,000 


46, 096 
84,609 


78,281 
$9,216 


125 

85 

927 

$130 

$600 
8940 


8495 
$3.55 
8317 


40 


890 


129, 637 

822,  817 

86,175 


14,000 
$2,480 


5.300 
8165 

850 
8222 
$.5.50 
81,404 
$100 
$505 
$340 

815 


4.56 


142 
119 


23 


878, 261 


84,417 
873, 844 


8409, 445 


2,045.311 

8317,075 

824,116 


84 
43,058 
83, 122 

40,714 
85, 140 


1,000 
$1,200 


24,377 
$6,964 


79,265 
$4,7.S1 


440,000 

$6, 6.58 

10, 721 

$3,  .597 

826,600 

$18,  93:S 


83,  ,5.50 
85, 866 
$6. 9.59 


6, 060 
4.000 


2, 274 


1,527 
280 


461 

6 


$473, 106 
$17,912 
838,435 

8399, 322 

517,437 

$4,951,162 

717,  771 

8254,033 

7, 309, 254 

82,075,025 

5, 627, 290 


5,000 

$2,000 

164,331 

813,  721 

3,414 

1,694,850 

81-59,049 

4.344,780 

$472,421 

1.021.. 804 

8186, 135 

795 

8182 

6, 248 

$1,849 

17,236 

S9.211 

40, 976 

$26, 076 

61.5,351 

$530,  aS9 

4,000 

81, 101 

902. 313 

$192,  396 

51 

8207 


1,862,929 

611'iS.  254 

SIS.  205 

1.076.  286 

847. 0S4 

17.5.  .527 

84S.417 

$297.  765 

8170.  .596 

6700 

$55,  784 

8142, 950 

877, 615 

665,000 


WOOL. 


141 


BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Gonrgiii. 


Illinois 


184 
lf)l 


756 

'89i 
274 


524 

'ii'2 
91 


Kcntiioky. 


344 


Maryland. 


Massachu- 
setts. 


583 

71 


460 


7,206 
5,288 

'■2,"  447 

2,351 


30 


179 
176 


10-1 
1 


15, 978 
4,408 


8,  939 


5,384 
541 


2,900 
54 


Michigan. 


1,195 


159 
130 


143 
129 


Mississippi. 


130 
62 


Missouri. 


239 


196 
69 


85 
86 
87 
f« 

89 
90 

91 
92 

93 
94 

95 
96 

97 


100 

101 

102 

103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 

109 
110 
HI 
112 

113 

114 

115 
116 
117 


$22, 430 


83,012 
$18, 455 


8280,295 

5, 200 
81,040 
267,  478 
£57, 910 
169, 282 


550 

860 

1.000 

$160 

2, 928 

1,433,936 

$101,536 

111,3.>7 

$19, 143 

1.61S 

8436 


284,  .536 
849,337 


1,.500 

8240 

58.  .532 

85, 169 

$03 

10. 920 

W26 

9,706 

$1,726 

$24, HOO 

86, 347 

"si.'io.V 

$5, 560 
81,577 


$73, 486 
$1.  350 
$5, 727 

$66, 409 


$492,270 


1,439,452 

$3.58, 116 

777, 507 


$97, 8.55 
81,660 
$12, 093 
$84, 102 


816, 831 

$650 

$2, 726 

$13, 4.55 


$876,659 


87 
43, 217 
84,497 

128,244 

821,987 

10,  .500 

$2,800 


3,162,301 
$629,635 
1,697,505 


8175,426 


1,194 
8327 


1,491 
736, 030 
$46, 562 

88,235 
$14, 063 
157,795 
$38,879 


773,053 

$147,698 

380,049 


9 
4,103 
$513 

2,766 
$441 

6,000 
8750 


9,078 
87,572 


23,500 
$4,610 


832, 654 

221,543 

$9, 237 

20, 264 

$2,  397 

$27,258 

813, 378 

$200 

$4,535 

$1,703 

$1,426 


10,864 
$8,179 


108,413 
$19, 463 


37,532 
$1,422 


486, 216 

$15,018 

83,849 

$7, 514 

$42, 487 

829,  374 

$900 

$9,312 

$7,  7.S5 

$5,739 

100,000 


110 
$110 


500 
$100 


2,008 
$257 


158,029 

$3, 346 

4,961 

$1. 299 

$9. 907 

$6,003 

$40 

$3, 076 

8825 

$1,002 

1,000 


$48,644 

$5.56 

$6, 365 

$41,723 


8405,775 

43, 917 
$8,051 

703,825 
$168,682 

477,628 


1,686 
856, 115 
$49, 661 

144, 124 
$33, 874 


581, 4,54 
$92,062 


108,650 
$13,364 


79, 623 
$1,480 
10,201 
$2, 196 
$14,758 
$8,5.55 
$58 
84.688 
83,966 
84,380 
150,000 


$6.59,  319 

84,794 

$54, 166 

$699, 911 

$448 

$6,842,679 

2, 410,  357 

$624,003 

15, 904, 448 

$3, 555, 250 

9,908,269 

9,781 

$1, 482 

428,845 

$180,055 

823, 952 

$60,066 

4, 586 

2, 298,  770 

$247, 988 

3,094,186 

8464,612 

1,017,627 

$309, 285 

30,228 

$14, 402 

656 

$151 

3,263 

$1, 657 

17, 839 

$8, 585 

28,795 

$23, 165 


901,913 
$164, 017 


3,695 
$3, 955 


1,030,345 

$61,902 

$193 

2, 047,  ,844 

$83,217 

165,  694 

$49, 265 

8398,  788 

$188, 202 

$15, 062 

$62, 560 

8167,189 

$167, 828 

264, 667 


$54,181 


$5,940 
$48, 241 


67, 036 


1,938,908 

$434,634 

980,023 


1,267 
637, 730 
849, 661 

58, 326 
$14,621 

53, 746 
$10, 946 


1.219,108 

$92, 279 

$20 

47,  .589 

$1,053 

28,913 

$15, 182 

$26,  647 

$13, 198 


$5,045 
'$750 


1,000 


$1, 745, 199 
$114,  .538 
$208, 768 

$1,331,195 

$90, 698 

$18, 273, 424 

3, 204, 445 

$707,172 

3.5,482,272 

$7, 610, 619 

20,  256, 198 

29, 499 

$8, 109 

656,7.54 

$269. 637 

879, 331 

$55, 349 

10, 059 

4, 746, 530 

$453, 782 

8, 628, 698 

$994,924 

2, 847, 395 

$855, 126 

100, 773 

$20, 062 

31,. 512 

$7, 332 

11,136 

$7, 799 


949, 270 

$329,444 

1,979,720 

$1,685,696 

50. 0.H0 

86,348 

3,813,317 

$760, 694 

1,438 

$8,619 

1,700 

$6,052 

4,000 

$3,000 

5,984 

$403 

12,891,959 

$1,151,019 

$01,380 

4,409,930 

$178, 047 

509, 750 

$167,000 

81,246,294 

$537, 646 

829, 239 

8187, 495 

8605, 720 

$2.59,  817 

12,000 


$29, 717 

$650 

85, 632 

$23, 435 


$406,726 

12, 981 

$3,894 

1,406,473 

$300,803 

802, 481 


$36,178 
$1,256 
$3, 894 

$31,029 


$17,817 


$272,483 

3,334 

$1,040 

1,2,81,977 

£221,855 

659, 643 


102 
65, 6.50 
86,571 

119,261 

822, 727 

39, 622 

$17,754 


3,000 
$1, 200 


3 
1,475 
$152 

8, 476 
$1, 141 
13, 892 
$3,583 


$3,511 
$14,266 


810';,308 


$21,067 

8148 

$2, 271 

$18,  M8 


244,434 
$48,628 
142,094 


144 
70,560 
$3, 7.S0 


$206, 579 


464,946 

$151,762     118 

600,154      119 


120 
121 
122 
123 
134 
125 
126 
127 
128 


2, 0.50 
$220 


133,832 

$5,  .539 

12, 604 

83,  .525 

822, 127 

$15, 981 

$250 

$4,125 

$885 

$2,345 


215, 420 
$8,966 
14, 348 
$4,2,82 
$6,107 
$6,608 
$2, 398 
$4,089 
$8,645 
$3,397 


12,600 
£2,  .500 


447,117 
$22,  .563 


359 

166, 221 

$9,160 

80,779 
$12, 182 


113, 012 
$16,952 


251,000 
82,  (120 
4,32.5 
$1.0t1 
$4,8.51> 
$8,  .530 


$2,918 

$5,678 

$200 


27.025 

S62S 

9,820 

$3,766 

$4,891 

^,239 

$45 

$1,804 

$75 


129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 
138 

139 
140 
lU 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 
118 
149 
1.50 
151 
152 
1.53 
154 
1.55 
156 
157 
158 
15t 
160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 


142 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  31.— WOOLEN  GOODS: 


United  States. 


Alabama.   Arkansas.   California.  Connecticut. 


170 

171 
172 
173 
174 

175 
176 

177 
178 


17S 
180 

181 
182 
183 
184 
185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
190 
191 
192 
193 

194 

193 
196 
197 
198 

199 
200 
201 
202 
203 
204 
205 
206 
207 


209 
210 

211 
212 
213 
214 
215 
216 
217 
218 

219 

220 
221 
222 
223 
224 
225 
226 
227 
228 
229 
230 
231 

232 
233 
234 


235 
236 
237 


239 
240 
241 

242 
243 

244 
245 

246 

247 
248 
249 
250 
251 


Products: 

Total  value 

All-wool  woven  goods,  ivhether  woolen  or  worsted — 

Wool  cloths,  doeskins,  cassimeres.  cheviots,  tweeds,  indigo  flannels,  and 
broMdc-lnth.s,  for  men's  wear,  square  yards. 

Value 

Worsted  coatings,  serges,  and  suitings,  for  men's  wear,  square  yards 

Value 

Woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  kerseys,  etc.,  for  men's  or  women's  wear, 
square  yards. 

Value 

Worsted  overcoatings  and  cloakings,  for  men's  or  women's  wear,  square 
yards. 

Value 

Wool  dress  goods,  sackings,  tricots,  ladies*  cloth,  broadcloth,  and  other 
all-wool  goods  for  women's  wear,  and  opera  and  similar  flannels,  square 
yards. 

Value 

Worsted  dress  goods,  cassimeres,  serges,  and  other  worsted  goods  for 
women's  wear,  and  buntings,  square  yards. 

Value 

Carriage  cloths  of  all  weights,  square  yards 

Value '. 

Flannels  for  underwear,  square  yards 

Value 

Blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Horse  blankets,  square  yards 

Value " 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value 

Woven  shawls,  square  yards 

Value 

Union  or  cotton  mixed,  woven  goods — 

Unions,  tweeds,  cheviots,  cassimeres,  or  other  goods  for  men's  wear, 
square  yards. 

Value 

Overcoatings  and  cloakings,  square  yards 

Value 

Sackings,  tricots,  and  dress  goods  for  women's  wear,  and  opera  and  simi- 
lar flannels,  square  yards. 

Value 

Flannels  for  underwear,  square  yards 

Value 

Blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Horse  blankets,  .square  yards 

Value 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value .' 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps,  with  weft  part}y  or  w'holly  of  wool,  worsted  or 
hair,  or  cotton  weft  with  warp  of  wool — 
Wool-filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  coatings,  suitings,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods  for  men's  wear,  not  specified  below,  square  yards. 

Value 

Worsted-filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  coatings,  suitings,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods  for  men's  wear,  not  specified  below,  square  yards. 

Value .' 

Wool-filling  overcoatings  and  cloakings,  square  yards 

Value 

Astrakhans  and  similar  goods,  square  yards 

Value 

Satinets  and  linseys,  square  yards 

Value 

Worsted-filling  dress  goods,  delaines,  cassimeres.  serges,  mohairs,  alpacas, 
and  other  stuffs,  for  women's  wear,  square  yards. 

Value 

Wool-filling  dress  goods  and  repellents,  square  yards 

Value 

Domett  flannels  and  shirtings,  square  yards 

Value 

Linings,  Italian  cloths,  an'd  lastings,  square  yards 

Value 

Cotton-warp  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

HoTse  blankets,  square  yards 

Value ." 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value ." 

Upholstery  goods  "and  sundries — 

Woolen  and  worsted  upholstery  goods,  square  yards 

Value .". ." 

Other  upholstery  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs — 
Carpets — 

Ingrain,  2-ply,  square  yards 

Value .. .'. *. 

Ingrain,  3-ply,  square  yards 

Value 

Felt  goods — 

Felt  cloths,  square  yards 

Value 

Trimming  and  lining  felts,  felt  skirts  and  skirting,  table  and  piano  covers, 
saddle  felts,  square  yards. 

Value .' 

All  other  felts 

Hats- 
Wool  hats,  dozens 

Value 

Partly  manufactured  product-s  for  sale — 

Woolen  yam — all  wool,  pounds 

Value 

Worsted  yam  and  tops,  pounds 

Value 

Woolen  or  worsted  yarn,  union  or  merino,  cotton  mixed,  pounds 

Value 


$118, 430, 158 

30, 715, 638 

S20, 136, 9.51 

3, 8-29, 107 

83, 450, 777 

17,011,186 

814, 426,  OM 
860,443 

8559, 612 
30,273,238 


$11,378,030 
3,231,517 

$1,321,879 

1, 2-20. 408 

$696, 999 

9,324,720 

$2,341,559 

5,266.643 

82, 274, 774 

514, 9.52 

8256, '211 

615 

8510 

512, 202 

$428,275 

29,588,901 

812,815,389 
5, 675, 464 
$3,164,749 
10,105,-548 

83, 341,  .341 
6,217,0iM 
81,284,578 
1,530,6% 
8561.649 
1,094,537 
8228,943 
460, 210 
$152, 499 


35, 086, 459 

$9,667,803 
2, 122, 792 

$866,017 

3, 917, 498 

$1,430,430 

32, 576 

814, 1.50 

13,0.51,7-29 

82, 873, 181 

6, 172, 494 

81,957,100 

7.149,016 

81,73,5,446 

4,555,013 

8976,465 

3, 169, 709 

8275. -295 

11, 107, 104 

82,241,342 

5, 702. 315 

81,2.52,824 

1,2.50, '233 

8815, 233 

403,9.54 

8679,991 

82.062,611 


102,202 

828,144 

543 


113, 059 

$51, 418 

2,738 

8375 
$8,029 

12,000 
85,400 

29, 143, 476 
$5,752,118 
1,343,983 
87'23, 369 
13, 437, 264 
$2,764,486 


867,263 

61,225 

819,792 


842,401 

4,860 

$2,946 


764 
$305 
1,600 
$900 


99,552 
$26,879 


5,000 
$1,800 


$687,354 

98,589 

892,3.52 

1,.500 

$2,  .500 

75,095 

878,826 


519,044 

8164, 408 

aS6. 873 

8211.762 

4,000 

82,000 


52, 107 
$31,264 


2,600 
$1,000 


28,664 
$9,504 


4,000 
$1,000 


5,760 
$2,804 


145,750 

862, 736 

390 

$206 

24,000 

816,800 


40,000 
$22,500 


2,000 
$2,000 


$8,097,218 

1,481,730 

$1,089,659 

79.5,085 

8626,  .539 

2, 122, 730 

81,851,673 


2,301,173 
$939,698 


66,848 

$32,866 

1,  754,  930 

$174, 145 


21,822 
$8,225 


14, 613 

820,824 

2,001,035 

$863.  -243 
745, 878 

8417, 6N 
629, 149 

$328,301 


1,455,3-29 

8413, 700 
355,288 

$201,136 

61, 769 

826,100 


929,900 
S-2a5. 120 


■247, 558 
8123,453 
1,515,525 
$280,692 


740 

8525 

295. 6.59 

$78. 981 

63,416 

825,366 


WOOL. 


14.3 


BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Georgia. 

Illinois. 

Indiana. 

Iowa. 

Kentucky. 

Maine. 

Maryland. 

Massachu- 
setts. 

Michigan. 

Minnesota. 

Mississippi. 

Missouri. 

8491,001 

8932,987 

906, 163 

86,'>4  213 

I3.0S1 

810,380 

1,980 

81,386 

81,491,218 

486,836 

8351,769 

$290,  ,500 

333,121 

8155,060 

$746,684 

425 

8345 

811,633,232 

4,175,588 
82,420,806 

$1,218,378 

478, 192 

8239,0% 

830,888,104 

10,735,748 

86, 879, 279 

874,613 

81,272,831 

6,181,856 

85,544,178 
6,270 

$3,314 
11,. 537, 565 

8:!,  766, 850 
1,086,359 

8403,917 
802, 311 
8366, 147 
2,219,563 
8689,248 

$626,836 

757, 174 

$459,758 

8496,812 
110, 833 
866,700 

8172,908 


$348,974 

8,825 

»5,980 

169 

170 

171 



173 

32,778 

821,8.52 
75,000 

8150,000 
490,804 

8217,866 

1,779,389 
$1,602,482 

225,343 

$169,007 

16,500 
$12,637 



175 

.... 

176 

666 
$299 

102,006 
835,313 

5, 403, 946 
82,182,474 

69, 131 

818,898 
18, 667 

84,800 

17S 

17") 

180 

181 

4, 322 

$2,200 

111,617 

$30,234 

129, ISO 

$42,184 

2,000 

«.sno 

925 

8273 

12,875 

$10,  .532 

31,825 

$12,496 

200 

81.50 



IS? 

183 

1.722 

$768 

87,  ,504 

$67,240 

718, 372 

$224,. 596 

59S, 039 

8176,307 

2,706 

81,000 

2, 240 

$K96 

120, 360 

838,623 

1,754,267 
8330,362 

185,281 
$.52, 101 
260,  784 
$152,907 

8.000 

$2,400 

400 

8200 

33,  .583 
$10  6.50 

64,080 
$22,  307 
2.58, 792 
8129,832 

184 

185 

6.55, 401 



8326, 670 
1,080 
$270 

187 

13,7.50 
89,000 

189 

615 
8510 

190 

191 

33,949 
$U,502 

2,664,583 

81,691,408 

698, 969 

8410,739 

1,043,906 

8366,  .540 
227, 400 
$41,430 
500 
$200 
151, 108 
$51,164 

3,000 
$1,700 

19^ 

W 

120,000 
$112,505 

1,930 
8547 

1,934,597 
8807,  675 

3,849,310 

$1,63.5,204 
1,439.836 
8716,  543 
4,414,628 

$1,346,081 

3,011,516 

$587, 106 

433,  262 

$218,928 

1,375 

$6.55 

387, 085 

$84,312 

6, 966, 602 

$2,178,625 
489,816 

$296,206 

1,0.5.5,861 

$224,270 

17.  .576 

$10, 150 

10, 326. 148 

82,  237,  965 

403,903 
8149,294 

194 

195 

196 

197 

98,112 
811,242 

2,729 

8798 

2,303 

$427 

85, 621 

$16,  746 

2.875 
$745 

198 

194 

?no 

i,'965' 

$551 

''01 

67, 161 

$17, 100 

49,314 

$7,462 

48, 704 
$17,269 

202 

•>m 



204 

•'05 

■'OS 

•'(17 

2,625,479 

8460, 469 
70,450 

$16,205 

5,333 
$1,600 

964,927 
$165,036 

2,287,878 

$4%,  302 
308,330 

$68,460 
1.50 
$76 

1,121,716 

$378,372 
120,000 

$56,000 

9,747 

$10,657 

56, 034 
821,064 

423,559 
884, 324 

''OS 

?n<) 

' 

''10 

■"ll 

•>19 

•)1^ 

•'14 

''15 

16,033 

$2,780 

378 
$301 

14, 834 
$5,773 

2,524 
$1,526 

751 
$891 

''IB 

217 

''18 

?19 

48,600 
$26,268 

45,585 
813,764 

2,819 
$406 

1,744,568 

$251,700 

471,757 

872,  700 

865, 380 
$209,  430 

167,000 
$182, 700 
2  l.SO  798 

•»o 

^■n 

<yn 

?''3 

oil 

$181,041 
1,120.224 
$216,295 

824,315 
8130,477 

244,458 
8114,176 

106.667 
8200, 000 
$64,779 

r>6 

79,080 
$•20,  .505 

1,500 
$600 

15,870 
82,866 

1,296 
8440 

1,824,470 

$535,233 

136,581 

$54, 897 

700,000 

8330, 809 

292,087 
$475,591 

750 
83.50 

3,241 
$1,946 

168,000 
$44,000 

9)fi 

V)7 

r?8 

07q 

8,706 
86,094 

?in 

?ai 

■X^'> 

'>3f 

''34 

?35 

''16 

?37 

''38 

110,034 
848,455 

''39 

240 

?41 

?4'> 

''4H 

?44 

945 

10,100 
$5, 360 

123, 188 
$68, 422 

10, 466 
$7,600 

16,099 
88,149 

30,100 
819,742 

676, 140 

8320,879 

,50, 000 

$.30,  ax) 

197,200 
$42, 936 

177,  667 
$110,975 

79,621 
$40,782 

45,904 
$27,036 

746 

?47 

'?4« 

•>4q 

15,096 
82,336 

28.000 

$8,  7.50 

1.52, 3211 
$63,  (»; 

7,liS7 
$3. 003 

60,000 
$17,400 

2,793 

$817 

?,50 

251 

144 


MANUFACTUKf:S. 


Table  3/ — WOOLEN  GOODS: 


United  States. 


Alabama. 


'Arkansas. 


California. 


Connecticut. 


252 
253 
254 
255 
256 
257 
258 
259 
260 
261 
262 
263 
264 
265 


266 
267 
268 
269 

270 

271 

272 
273 
274 
275 
276 
277 
278 
279 
280 
281 
282 
283 
284 
285 

286 
287 
288 

289 
290 


291 
292 


294 

295 
296 

297 
298 

299 
300 

301 
302 
303 


304 
305 
306 
307 
308 
309 
310 
311 
312 
313 


Products— Continued. 

Total  value — Continued. 

Partly  nianufa<'tured  products  for  sale — Continued. 

jiohiiir  luul  .similar  yarn,  pounds 

Value 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds 

Value 

Wool  card  rolls,  pounds 

Value 

Noils,  poun<is 

Value 

\Va.sie,  p-junds 

Value 

Shoddy,  pounds 

Value 

Flocks,  pounds 

Value 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods — 
Hose  and  half  hose — 
Woolen — 

Half  hose,  dozens 

Value 

Hose,  dozens 

Value 

Merino  or  mixed — 

Half  hose,  dozens 

Value 

Cotton- 
Hose,  dozens 

Value 

Leggins  and  gaiters,  dozens 

Value 

Gloves  and  mittens,  dozens 

Value 

Eiderdown  shawls,  dozens 

Value '. 

Boot  and  shoe  linings,  square  yards 

Value .' 

Jersey  cloth  and  stockinette,  square  yards 

Value 

All  other  pnxlucts 

Amount  received  tor  contract  work 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year ". 

Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting , 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines — 
Steam — 

Number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline — 

Number , 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels — 

Number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors — 

Number 

Horsepower 

Other  power — 

Number 

Horsepower 

Rented— 

Electric,  horsepower 

Other  kind,  horsepower , 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  cla.-^sitied  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  proprietors 
and  firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  5 . ." 

5  to  20 

21  to  60 

51  to  100 

101  to2o0 

251  to  500 

501  tol.LlCO 

Over  1,000 


21.5. 
S219, 
3,4,>5, 

&'J07, 
977, 

8395, 
124, 
S18, 
978, 
867. 
430, 
S7(l, 
212, 
$21, 


3,438 

$11,714 

828 

$3,122 

8.52 
$1,806 

.90 

$180 

207 

$1,656 

1,238 

$4,6!1 

361,000 

$126,403 

11,420 

S8,800 

2,784 

81,010 

$1,190,662 

$775, 445 

861 

$109,712,214 

$95,443,073 

1,024 
139,645 


82,933 


12  I 
191 


9.54 

,52, 3.58 


51 
1,217 


678 

2,264 

286 


1,035 
114 

186 
158 
146 
155 
194 
61 
19 


.54, 261 
$20, 174 


57,577 
$21,746 


52,557 
$9,367 


.500 
$50  , 


$368 

9 

$39, 955 
$35, 422 

10 
235 


188,709 

S7,6(i3 

202, 910 

$38,  .552 


$300 

13 

$12, 401 
$40, 206 

11 
224 


7 
164 


5 

$687, 3>4 
8785,822 


7 
560 


3 

14 


$320,303 
$13, 470 

44 

$7,64.5.096 
$6,699,210 

.51 
11,636 


58 
6,315 


5,180 
4 


13 
6 
4 


New  Hamp- 
shire. 


New  Jersey.    New  York. 


North 
Carolina. 


Ohio. 


2 
3 

4 

Si 
6  i 
7 

8  ! 
9 
10  i 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

Incoiporated  company 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  "sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 


14 
20 

88, 160, 673 
$753,850 
$1,187,493 
$1,872,793 
54, 346, 537 
37 


13 


$4, 549, 798 
8248,  .502 
$703,322 
$874,970 

$2,723,0(M 
1  I 


28 
23 
14 

$7, 338. 813 

8440. 506 

$949. 362 

$1,871,495 

$4, 077, 450 

73 


$347,830 
$18,355 
542,400 
590,7.54 

$196,321 
11 


35 

16  • 
12  i 

7  i 

$1,. 591, 445 
$112,745 
$280, 978 
$472,411 
$725, 3U  I 
28  I 


WOOL. 


BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Georgia. 

Illinois. 

Indiana. 

Iowa. 

Kentucky. 

Maine. 

Maryland. 

Massacliu- 
sett.«. 

Michigan. 

Minnes<>tH. 

Mississippi. 

Missouri. 

200, 000 
$200,000 

253 

212, l.W 

841,996 

7,  .500 

84,275 

255 

■28.700 
$11,347 

5,600 
$2,240 

1,200 
8650 

109,841 

"17. 501 

2.. 500 
$9.50 

34,200 
$16, 132 

7,000 
82, 100 

80. 558 
834,997 

$45,981  '           S-I3.ni4 

257 

122.  i.'.lH 

1.331 

$532 

390.932 

822, 892 

$18,404 

95.  3.^ 

$17, 499 

259 

2,700 
8135 

6,108 

$1,076 

2,956 

$465 
3,823 

8331 

60 
8252 

80 
$432 

261 

224, 160 
830,972 

22,668 
$597 

132,  .500 
817,646 

1,800 
818 

264 

266 

1 

268 

1 

i 

''Tl 

* 

272 

•>!? 

274 



276 



:::::::::::::::::::::  :::r ::::::: :: 

361,000 
8126  403 

'>79 

11,420 

$8,800 

2,784 

81,010 

8120,175 

8281,770 

92 
$29,216,027 
$25, 608, 616 

131 
36,373 

187 
21,858 

281 

283 

81,226 

$19,314 

$1,415 

$1,200 
$2,504 

17 
8457, 6S3 
$431, 167 

19 
971 

12 

416 

$200 

14 
$491,001 
S-151,923 

14 
748 

5 
340 

$166 

19 
81,191,^55 
81,220,062 

20 
1,965 

21 
1,696 

2 
35 

6 
215 

1 
10 

$600 

15 
$734, 877 
8743, 174 

36 
1,232 

28 
1,101 

$450 

4 
$172.  908 
$237,242 

4 
422 

4 

407 

2f5 

12 
$931,447 
$916,  f,48 

13 
1,269 

13 

1.0.54 

11 
8287, 030 
8328,630 

12 
485 

5 
343 

69 
810,907,266 
$9,054,710 

75 
13,784 

51 
4,080 

3 
81,215,778 
81,080,752 

4 
1,020 

4 
450 

14 
8552,644 
$541,674 

16 
1,106 

16 
971 

1 
12 

3 

58 

2 
30 

23 
S342, 694 

S418. 836 

25 
697 

20 
600 

286 
2.S7 

288 

289 

290 

291 
292 

■'13 

13 
375 

0 

33 

4 
175 

5 
40 

8 
142 

9 
116 

119 
8,604 

9 
570 

202 
14,245 

9 

170 

11 
396 

2 
30 

1 
15 

5 
91 

295 
296 

297 

'>98 

099 

15 

525 
575 
190 

76 
7 

13 
8 
6 

12 

26 
6 
1 

15 
20 

^01 

40 

100 

129 
20 

19 
3 

5 
8 
2 

6 
40 

25 
2 

15 
5 
1 

303 

14 

13 

20 
1 
4 
4 
3 
3 
4 
1 

12 
3 
1 
4 
1 
2 
1 

36 
6 

18 
7 
1 

2 
1 

1 

4 
1 

131 

16 

1 
3 
6 
4 

4 

304 
305 

9 

2 
3 
3 
1 
3 
1 

2 

1 

306 

12 
23 
29 

44 
15 
8 

307 

1 
1 
3 

?0S 

109 

2 

1 

2 

310 

3 

1 

811 

ST> 

313 

Oregon.         Penn.sylvania. 

Rhode 
Island. 

Tennessee. 

Texas. 

Utah. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

West  Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  other 
states.i 

11 

3 

1 
7 

81,17.5,820 
8102,796 
$135,221 
$315,907 
8621,896 
3 

193 

83 
83 
27 

$19,405,505 
$1,051,999 
82,  .576. 460 
85,612,433 

810, 164,  613 
231 

26 

6 
7 
13 

86,068,073 

$636, 200 

5925, 412 

81,240,0-12 

$3,266,419 

24 

51 

33 
9 
9 

$2,399,518 

$57, 103 

$271,, S16 

$1,189,560 

sasi,039 

29 

3 

1 

1 
1 

$285,663 

$18,250 

8.54,150 

$112, 792 

8100.471 

1 

6 

23 

10 
6 
7 

$3,001,347 
8133,625 
S473, 114 
$731,290 

81,663,318 
21 

28 

10 
9 
9 

8783.527 
$44,656 
8116.971 
8180,2.52 
8441,648 
15 

33 

22 
5 
6 

$683,683 

828,037 

892,408 

$222,  080 

8341, 158 

12 

32 

16 
8 

8 

$1,794,056 
8154.654 
8265.896 
$133,  .588 
$939,917 
26 

7       1 
3  '    2 

2 

8154,981 
832,620 
891,630 
896,905 

$233,826 

3 

4       4 

$540,424       5 
$24,800       fi 
$111,800       7 
8191,740       8 
8212,084       9 
2     10 

'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  Jollows:  Delaware.  2;  Idaho.  1;  Kansas.  1;  North  Dakota,  1;  South  Carolina,  1;  Wyoming,  L 


MON TEXT - 


-10 


146 


MANUFACTUI^ES. 


Table  31.— WOOLEN  GOODS: 


Salaried  officials, clerks, etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Ollicors  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 

Wages 

Men.  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women.  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years- 
Average  number 

Wages  •- 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during  each 
month: 
Men.  16  years  and  over- 
January  

February 

March 

April 

May , 

June 

July , 

August 

September , 

October , 

November 

December 

Women.  16  years  and  over — 

January , 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October , 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years- 
January  ". 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number:' 
Spinners — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,"  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Weavers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Knitters- 
Men,  16  years  and  over 

Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women.  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards 

Combing  machines,  number 

Of  American  manufacture 

Of  foreign  maiuifacture 

Spindles,  number 

Spinning — 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Doubling — 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number 

Broad,  30  inches  or  over,  reed  space- 
On  woolen  goods 

On  worsted  goods 


New  Hamp- 
shire. 


129 
8152, 574 

35 
849,602 

94 

8102,972 

76 
895,270 

18 
87,702 

4,R88 

3,  ,551 

4,042 

S1,571,.V20 

2,637 
81,131,594 

1,299 
8423,829 

86 
$16,097 


2,574 
2,725 
2,822 
2, 829 
2,767 
2,508 
2, 516 
2.  .526 
2,569 
2,645 
2,  712 
2,683 

1,269 
1,237 
1,302 
1.341 
1,330 
1,217 
1,273 
1,2.t4 
1,290 
1,339 
1,349 
1,390 

93 


636 
28 


967 
807 


492 
232 

-     7 

335 

13 

5 

8 
125, 532 

113, 604 
5,600 


3,320 
3,008 


2, 071 
1,705 


New  Jersey. 


43 
886,619 

6 
$23,600 


$62, 119 

36 
$60,775 

2 
$1,344 

3,184 

2,716 

2,942 

$1,013,232 

1.690 
S685, 439 

1,063 
$301,580 

187 
$26, 213 


1,599 
1,641 

1. 726 
1,735 
1,712 
1,701 
1,672 
1,689 
1,689 
1,683 
1,712 

1. 727 

1,021 
1,035 
1,060 
1.076 
1,066 
1,072 
1,0.59 
1,070 
1,075 
l,a58 
1,088 
1,102 

176 

185 
189 
194 
196 
185 
177 
180 
185 
185 
197 
191 


176 
94 
124 

467 
650 


180 
129 

7 

138 
4 


4 
61,672 


56,878 
4,038 


756 


851 
25 


New  York. 


.      210 
8231,733 


16 


194 

8177, 958 

177 
8171,793 

17 
86,  Wo 

4,694 

3,338 

4,033 

81,899,527 

1,913 
$827, 179 

1,974 
$549,253 

146 
823,095 


1,875 
1,708 
1.842 
1.885 
1,874 
1.878 
1.897 
1.902 
1.9.38 
1.996 
2.064 
2.077 

2, 024 
1,919 
1,997 
2,052 
1,981 
1,940 
1,901 
1,927 
2,064 
1,990 
1,946 
1,947 

133 
133 
138 
140 
140 
144 
147 
150 
130 
152 
157 
160 


401 
561 

5 


196 

174 

14 

269 
2 


2 
88,249 


81,180 
1,564 


4,629 
876 


1,425 
1,080 


Carolina. 


17 
$9,065 


$3,625 

10 
85,440 

10 
$6,440 


246 

170 

206 

$39,094 

106 
$25,675 

91 
812,766 


98 
94 
99 
101 
103 
112 
115 
109 
111 
113 
111 
100 

86 

76 

87 

77 

81 

87 

102 

103 

lOS 

108 

102 

78 

6 

6 

6 

4 

5 

13 

14 

11 

14 

10 

12 


12 


5,334 
6.080 


161 
39 


67 
864,776 

14 
$18,800 

43 
$45,976 

37 
$43,616 

6 
82,360 

805 

634 

636 

8201,647 

266 
8110,850 

341 
887,037 

29 
$3,660 


221 
224 
243 
281 
289 
279 
281 
2*8 
294 
284 
266 
243 


297 
296 
330 
399 
407 
344 
348 
357 
348 
326 
333 
301 

22 
28 
27 
30 
31 
29 
36 
34 


73 

39 
12 

27 

126 

5 


23,953 
22,652 


1,30! 


249 
18 


WOOL. 


147 


BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Oregon. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode 
Island. 

Tennessee. 

Texas. 

Utah. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

West  Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  other 
states.' 

29 

3.63 

79 

64 

10 

14 

61 

39 

16 

53 

29 

11 

S32,g20 

8399,  570 

81 43,  .638 

867,073 

81.6,763 

$10,060 

870,908 

$37,667 

$17,440 

$65,210 

830, 432 

12 

9 

40 

16 

14 

3 

1 

13 

9 

2 

13 

8      13 

88,600 

886, 396 

818,580 

829, 700 

■85,000 

$125 

820, 872 

810,720 

83,700 

$17,500 

85,800      14 

20 

313 

63 

BO 

7 

13 

38 

30 

14 

40 

•24       15 

$24,320 

$314, 176 

$94,968 

837,973 

$10,763 

$9,926 

860,036 

$26,947 

$13,740 

$47,650 

824,632      16 

18 

■288 

68 

60 

7 

12 

35 

29 

14 

38 

21 

17 

823,480 

8303,299 

$91,990 

837,973 

810,763 

$9,867 

^8,436 

$26,447 

813,740 

846, 780 

$23,632 

18 

2 
8840 

797 

25 

810,876 

1.6,481 

5 

$2,968 

3,666 

1 
858 

3 

$1,600 

1 
$500 

2 

8870 

3 
$1,000 

19 

20 

1,739 

159 

238 

■1,968 

452 

488 

974 

544 

21 

594 

12,327 

2,562 

1,682 

154 

182 

1,424 

352 

365 

781 

303 

■22 

672 

13, 721 

2,710 

1,632 

134 

194 

1,484 

362 

384 

861 

454 

23 

8208,695 

85,091,932 

81,104,054 

8294, 116 

$40, 674 

869,681 

$577,249 

$103, 773 

899, 027 

$259,268 

$178,736  j 

24 

423 

7,588 

1,814 

557 

76 

100 

1,030 

214 

■226 

396 

196 

25 

8147,442 

$3,306,619 

8807,2,88 

8148,817 

$29,066 

843,217 

$435,9.56 

$72,954 

870, 316 

81.62.060 

$95,082 

26 

216 

4,967 

799 

769 

34 

65 

427 

127 

138 

392 

179 

'27 

856,379 

81,57,6,655 

$277,232 

8116,228 

$8,388 

$20,786 

$136,982 

$28,506 

826,722 

896,356 

863,384 

28 

33 

1,166 

97 

316 

24 

29 

27 

21 

20 

73 

80 

29 

$4,874 

$210,658 

819,  .634 

$29,071 

$3,220 

$5,678 

$6,312 

82,313 

81,990 

810,842 

$20,270 

30 

431 

7, 162 

1,618 

659 

77 

83 

1,051 

196 

188 

391 

194 

31 

413 

7,410 

1,637 

638 

75 

84 

1,073 

200 

185 

395 

189 

32 

413 

7, 442 

1,666 

671 

77 

82 

1,173 

216 

182 

397 

180 

33 

376 

7,607 

1,684 

631 

77 

93 

1,152 

225 

219 

401 

173 

34 

398 

7, 695 

1,728 

550 

75 

105 

1,079 

190 

233 

391 

176 

86 

405 

7,498 

1,696 

B50 

75 

106 

966 

198 

240 

340 

159 

36 

432 

7, 488 

1,631 

550 

75 

111 

962 

206 

235 

404 

215 

37 

436 

7, 694 

1,787 

647 

75 

111 

935 

241 

241 

420 

220 

38 

438 

7,708 

1,859 

664 

75 

109 

962 

238 

244 

411 

218 

39 

444 

7.768 

2,106 

669 

75 

113 

977 

224 

246 

416 

215 

40 

451 

7,870 

2,106 

580 

75 

116 

1,001 

219 

248 

398 

200 

41 

439 

7,820 

2,191 

581 

75 

90 

1,033 

215 

250 

384 

208 

42 

213 

4,  796 

739 

775 

48 

59 

448 

119 

HI 

406 

166 

43 

210 

4,876 

659 

7.60 

30 

57 

443 

118  1 

107 

401 

166 

44 

198 

4,9.69 

683 

784 

48 

55 

488 

128 

98 

387 

149 

46 

174 

4,939 

702 

744 

48 

61 

468 

131 

141 

386 

163 

46 

199 

4,924 

712 

751 

30 

68 

444 

114 

147 

381 

167 

47 

199 

4,969 

721 

761 

30 

67 

404 

119 

139 

311 

147 

48 

223 

4,853 

715 

749 

30 

68 

400 

124 

137 

374 

179 

49 

224 

4,980 

726 

749 

30 

67 

377 

135 

157 

399 

208 

60 

240 

5,037 

789 

751 

30 

68 

386 

141 

162 

419 

211 

61 

246 

5, 132 

1,0.62 

751 

SO 

67 

409 

141 

164 

431 

211 

52 

236 

6,1.>4 

•      1,036 

778 

30 

76 

419 

129 

155 

430 

198 

53 

229 

4,981 

1,054 

769 

30 

63 

438 

126 

142 

383 

199 

54 

31 

1,095 

84 

315 

34 

26 

30 

11 

15 

76 

88 

G6 

32 

1,126 

88 

307 

20 

26 

30 

13 

16' 

68 

91 

66 

31 

1,128 

91 

320 

34 

26 

31 

16 

18 

76 

93 

57 

34 

1,103 

100 

311 

34 

26 

23 

18 

21 

76 

78 

58 

33 

1, 116 

93 

317 

20 

31 

■23 

21 

22 

70 

63 

59 

31 

1,133 

86 

318 

20 

31 

21 

24 

26 

66 

68 

60 

31 

1,181 

90 

317 

20 

32 

24 

24 

25 

72 

76 

61 

31 

1,198 

94 

315 

20 

32 

•25 

25 

24 

76 

76 

62 

34 

.   1,198 

102 

314 

20 

31 

27 

30 

22 

76 

81 

63 

34 

1,207 

109 

318 

20 

31 

28 

■29 

22 

74 

78 

64 

35 

1,2,56 

107 

324 

20 

31 

28 

24 

17 

72 

89 

65 

35 

1,248 

121 

312 

20 

28 

29 

22 

15 

73 

92 

6« 

82 

865 

365 

82 

9 

15 

143 

39 

39 

32 

39 

67 

32 

142 

18 

18 

1 

3 

12 

1 

6 

54 

4 

68 

6 

108 
110 

232 

2,016 
2,216 

91 
59 

.3 

40 

8 
31 

5 
279 

9 
41 

8 

1 
100 

42 
69 

69 

531 

70 

620 

606 

28 

33 

2^24 

53 

65' 

115 

81 

71 

4 

12 

6 

428 

18 

10 

2 

5 

3 

1 

2 

72 

73 

61 

200 

31 

11 

10 

105 

28 

47 

46 

41 

74 

44 

315 

203 

9 

6 

4 

73 

3 

11 

49 

SO 

75 

3 
35 

48 
980 

8 
220 

2 

5 

2 

76 

99 

4 

17 

124 

52 

53 

69 

20 

77 

22 

12 

10 

348, 169 

17 

13 

4 

124,082 

2 
2 

1 
1 

3 
3 

78 

79 

80 

ia.isf 

38,' 654' 

2,'666' 

6,' 974' 

38,'926' 

i4,'322 

i4,'i86 

25,'964' 

ii,'648' 

81 

U,199 

307, 118 
9,000 
13, 460 

13.317 
4,414 

100, 190 
2,464 
10,000 

8,928 
2,500 

33,035 

2,600 

6,192 

37, 460 

13, 171 

13,620 

22,760 
912 

10,172 

82 
83 

5,' 666' 

619 

43'2' 

84 

988 

3.50 

1,460 

1,1.61 

660 

1,878 
364 

876 

85 

86 

'  SliO 
8,067 

87 

ira' 

i,'4i8' 

i,'239 

94 

94 

670 

-j'ii 

2« 

272 

276' 

88 

^!^. 

2, 379 

696 

602 
282 

143 

48 

73 

561 
5 

130 

157 

236 

71 

89 
90 

Includes  establ 

ishments  dist 

ributed  as  foil 

ows:  Delawar 

2,  2:  Idaho,  1: 

Kansas,  1;  Nr 

rth  Dakota,  1 

;  South  Carolin 

ft,  1;  Wyomini 

M. 

148 


]\rA\rFACTUKRS. 


Table  .31. —WOOLEN  GOODS: 


91 
92 

93 
94 

95 
96 

97 
98 
99 
100 

101 
102 

103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 

109 
110 
111 
112 

113 

U4 

115 
116 
117 
118 
119 

120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 
128 

129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 
138 

139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 
148 
149 
150 
151 
152 
153 
154 
155 
156 
157 
158 
169 
160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 

169 

170 

171 
172 
173 
174 


Spindles,  number— Continued. 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number — Continued. 
Narrow,  under  50  inehes,  reed  space — 

On  woolen  goods 

On  worsted  goods 

Hand- 
On  woolen  or  worsted  goods 

Looms  on  carpets  and  rugs,  number 

Ingrain- 
Hand 

Power 

Body  Brussels — 

Power 

Formers  for  fur  hats .- 

Braiders 

Knitting  machines,  number 

.Spring-beard  needle — 

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Latch  needle- 
Flat,  plain 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  ribbed 

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Circular,  hosiery,  automatic 

Lamb  and  other  variety,  hand 

Miscellaneous  expenses; 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto 
included. 

Contract  work 

Material  used; 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hair  and  fur- 
Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair,  pounds 

Cost 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials  not  made  ia  mill — 

Shoddy,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Camel,  alpaca,  vicuna  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Tops,  pounds 

Cost ^ 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill- 
Woolen,  pounds 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Merino,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  pounds 

Cost - 

Silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Cost 

Jute,  ramie,  or  other  of  vegetable  tiber,  pounds 

Cost 

Shoddy  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  component  of  the  product 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuffs 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Cotton  yarn  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Products; 

Total  values 

All-wool  woolen  goods,  whether  woolen  or  worsted — 
Wool  cloths,  doeskins,  cassimeres,  cheviots,  tweeds,  indigo  flannels,  and 
broadcloths,  for  men's  wear,  square  yards. 

Value 

Worsted  coatings,  serges,  and  suitings,  for  men's  wear,  square  yards 

Value 

Woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  kerseys,  etc.,  for  men*s  or  women's  wear, 
square  yards. 
Value 


New  Hamp- 
shire. 


333 


5346,316 

85,756 

539,490 

8301,070 


54,741,396 

1,098,990 

5306,024 

10,201,344 

?2,5.S4,191 

6, 122, 739 


20, 205 

85,823 

142, 414 

86,995 

5,535 

2, 766,  S30 

8155, 910 

4,181,362 

£3.53, 251 

306, 586 

S102.836 

3,903 

8740 

12,840 

53,262 


12, 866 

56,3.50 

40,538 

531,031 


1,991,. 594 
$146, 657 


447 
51,617 


Xew  Jersey.     New  York 


364 


S461,.513 
516, 380 
530, 021 

8415. 112 


82,700,889 

115, 797 
533, 318 

3, 883. 063 
81, 603, 959 

3, 299, 612 


2,604 
,295,903 
890, 699 

86,000 
812,885 
539, 663 
864,840 


500 

8380 

116,660 

582, 192 


627, 791 
8127,482 


216 
4 


8761,841 
S3S,  S24 
823,906 

86.58,545 

840,  .566 

S3, 499, 864 

800.110 

8272, 142 

5,  600, 556 

81,360,111 

4,»42,006 

2,396 
8533 


789,000 
841,130 
1,811 
.S34,477 
875,204 

560,501 
8101,190 
,812.318 
8243, 402 


2,251,639 

5260,000 

87, 790 

1,888,173 

562, 123 

129, 990 

843,  608 

8265,354 

8123,978 

53,423 

5.54.211 

5179, SSI 

576,341 

45,000 

57, 624, 062 

2,033,776 

51,290,897 

115,962 

594.612 

2,167.922 

51.570.343 


3,059.698 
8186,  667 


836,  .528 
537, 194 

90,106 

824,618 

8217,272 

866,-523 

57,600 
521,084 
570, 421 
563.755 


84,755.393 

558,698 

5412, 320 
9.<.  731 
578,226 
320, 876 

8279.299 


11,600 
83,332 
14,616 
86.064 

345, 090 

8212.310 

245, 517 

8259, 638 

14,500 

86,900 

1,447,301 

5174. 134 

9.462 

514.447 

2, 346 

82,967 


North 
Carolina. 


814,527 


51,443 
57,934 

5.5,150 

8204,961 


577, 750 
8147,445 
403, 395 


Ohio. 


10 
5,000 
S400 

38,365 

86, 5,53 
25, 391 
85,078 


91,763 
813,227 


25,000 

81,010 
630, 084 
843, 697 
8144.142 
973. 304 
838.100 

96,274 

827, 341 

8193, 351 

578,  497 

85, 740 
831,3,52 
888,029 
845,111 


86, 715, 005 

2,568,137 

81,982,270 

93,075 

8109,560 

144,8.51 

$145,411 


8320 
59, 181 
81,986 
5,838 
51,366 
810, 517 
S5,3>> 
81,687 
81,982 
81,804 
67,274 


8289,506 

27,468 

819,772 


75 


886.394 
82,100 
$7,936 

876,358 


8869,236 

7.025 

81.426 

1.. 5.51. 667 

837.5.001 

1,089.775 


•500 

8485 

1,927 

5135 

7.51 

374,111 

531, 677 

217,940 
529, 470 
256,691 
537,953 
4,233 
5697 


144,200 

858,200 

64,518 

841,461 

2.000 

81.000 

197.936 

839.356 

34 

525 


10. 120 

81.328 
897,397 
8111.069 

54,686 
337,486 
514,160 

46,866 

510.865 

861.  795 

818.027 

520 

58,200 

511.234 

810.963 

2,000 

81.321.761 

607. 675 

8189. 735 

1.50.000 

850.000 

44.400 

526.346 


WOOL. 


149 


BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Oregon. 

I't'iinsylvfinia. 

Lslaliil. 

Teiinessei.'. 

Texn.s. 

Utah. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

West  Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

,\U  other 
states.' 

3 

3,912 
1,060 

10 

s 

6 
2 

.530 
4 

1,096 

36 
10 

21 

101 

90 

81 

36 

205 

91 
92 

1 

4 

95 

96 

97 

.500 

1,600 

50 

98 

99 

ion 

101 

20 

"■ 

107 

101 

5 
5 
16 
2 
2 

$1,444,778 

$117,  422 

$43,  379 

$1,014,310 

$269, 667 

$15, 874,  .544 

13,308,519 
$2, 035, 725 
11,712.697 
$3,036,405 
18,003,382 

121,513 

$12, 949 

4,131 

$1,444 

16, 876,  816 

S913,  216 

25,  780 

12,098,6.56 

$838, 295 

6, 107, 141 

$699,095 

5, 230, 394 

$1,027,984 

45,977 

$8,367 

35,907 

$6, 661 

4,000 

$1,070 

1,319,493 

$560, 4.53 

2, 596, 207 

$1,767,860 

3,141,273 

$.500, 439 

9,417,582 

$1,712,0.56 

23,022 

$92,216 

18,378 

$58,373 

250 

$43 

1,055,574 

$.51,057 

8,954,396 

W.59,.586 

$230,  521 

3, 1 10,  .845 

$132,  437 

693.  465 

$180,  639 

$597,115 

$246, 967 

$32, 159 

$103,338 

$429,893 

$138, 181 

1,301,019 

$25,389,344 

1,6.52,012 

$1.128,9.58 

8.59,429 

$525, 090 

1,403,734 

$1,225,883 

104 

105 

107 

108 

$74,323 

$.5,' 669' 

868, 654 

$287,  695 
$28, 104 
$17,010 

$212, 476 

$30,106 

$3,386,993 

337,445 

$115,205 

7,555,470 

$1,. 562, 307 

3,877,898 

$S6, 141 

$3.55 

$8,045 

$77, 741 

$17,428 

$17, 3M 

$98,541 
$7,000 
$10,4.52 
$81,014 

$75 

$1,554,525 

341,902 
$141,838 

2, 828, 600 
$702,968 

2,173,644 

75,058 
$11,264 

$22.  780 
$1,770 
$2,015 

$18, 125 

$870 

$391,6.59 

9.000 

$2,190 

1,175,231 

$295,664 

687, 759 

831.649 
$2,488 
$■2,932 

$26, 2^29 

$104,250 
$1,346 
$9, 849 
$92, 680 

$375 

$899,711 

$30,624 

109 
110 

$1,5'28 
$15,900 

$2,463 
$14,891 

$■2,818 
$27,706 

111 

112 

113 

$465,855 

$874,359 

101,766 
$30,  7S3 

1.421,676 
$405, 487 

1,269,181 

$117,327 

$121,828 

$319,313 

3,000 

$600 

840,9,59 

$223, 155 

553,550 

8554,. 553 

395 

8140 

1,139,089 

8336,  882 

803,595 

114 
115 

116 

1,997,9,54 
$322,417 
1,204,461 

291,979 
$52,r23 
117,848 

744,469 
$84,662 
244,2.51 

3,483,348 
$711,265 
1,817,9^28 

117 
118 
119 

120 

T'l 

V? 

ion 

410 

$■24 

2,951 

1,062,5.52 

$119,130 

1,112,319 

$188,020 

820, 368 

$■281,859 

1''4 

1''5 

206 
86,9<t3 
$8.4.58 

73,084 
814, 183 

5, '247 
2,602,988 
$173,081 

487, 089 

$58, 036 

5,000 

$.500 

46 
18,700 
$1,124 

19,260 
$2,896 

107 
53,790 
$4,804 

1,761 
$352 

1,299 
342,273 
$54,418 

B-22, 069 

$108,943 

87, 2'23 

$10,097 

93 
36.416 
$4,081 

124,351 

$23, 344 

15,000 

$2,175 

182 
72, 197 
$6,734 

135, 912 

$19,806 

40,000 

$9,  745 

225 
119,776 
$15,  (585 

308,033 

85.5,612 

30, 248 

$7,^227 

7,619 
389,0.52 
$38,761 

103,919 
$16,380 
105,373 
ittn  .5q'> 

126 
127 
128 

129 
130 

m 

11? 

i 

131 

134 

15,000 

$3,000 

771 

$419 

135 

136 

254,311 
$137, 844 

182,441 
$66,098 
497, 993 
$347,110 

137 

138 

500 
$225 

500 

$225 

330 

$•274 

3,392 

$848 

65, 018 

$11,477 

119 

140 

, 

270 
$219 

4,974 
$3,488 

70 
$73 

2,081 
$1,422 

141 

14? 

141 

144 

20, 391 
$5,578 

200,817 
$15,973 

586,833 
$100,  497 

68,000 
$20,417 

10,422 
$2, '222 

214,312 
$44,.S37 

90,220 

811,583 

22,989 
$5,211 

6,001 
$323 

145 
146 

117 

148 

86 
$283 

1.000 
$3,7.50 

119 

150 



1.51 

157 

8,464 

$1,272 

470, 830 

$35,3-24 

$181 

376, 008 

$16,  931 

102,  680 

$30, 480 

$141,  r20 

$79,011 

$1,051 

$27,888 

$160,833 

$29,049 

147, 184 

$5,330,550 

1,735,526 

$1,308,525 

8'25,2.53 

$679,439 

614,586 

$698,244 

10.017 
$1,.802 
20.  088 
$1,.5'22 

100 

815 

151 

154 

280, 876 
$27, 157 

l,325,r20 

$181,8.88 

$10,000 

503,842 

$21,912 

.50,4.50 

$19. '2.88 

$101.  ^291 

$48,909 

815 

$16,273 

$42,946 

$26,981 

60,000 

$2, 572, 646 

468,989 

$364,199 

155 

1,56 

$•25,758 

10,000 

$400 

90 

$185 

$6, 6^26 

$2,744 

$188 

123, 685 

$4,5.87 

11,613 

$3, 125 

$19,695 

$8,694 

$4.50 

$3,515 

$,3,3.56 

$7,771 

157 

200, 678 
$5,585 
29. 102 
$4,167 

$40,025 

$20,194 

$24 

$3,104 

$2,937 

$11,726 
3,000 

$897,824 

666,107 

$361,147 

.H78 

$1,000 

370, 095 

1              $127, 927 

99, 947 
m,  444 
65, 3.55 
$4,097 
$34,  689 
$14, 036 
$2,8 
$14, 346 
$13,410 
$18, 376 
138, 129 

$1,517,194 

10,404 

$4,0,53 

109,  709 

$2, -212 

4,. 587 

$1,792 

$11,  9.S6 
$6,  765 

201, 384 

$7,188 

8,4,51 

$•2,164 

814,  7^20 
86, 474 
810 
83,209 
$8,205 
$5,632 

327, 104 

812,880 

28,230 

85,999 

$89,848 

$27,358 

$932 

$8,035 

$4,873 

$4,786 

489,441 
$24,906 
42,408 
$21,635 
$68,227 
$10,8.54 

158 
159 
160 
161 

162 
163 
164 

$645 

$2,005 

$1,322 

$3,487 

4,740 

$222,343 

488 

$422 

$4,4a5 
$6,444 
$3,582 

165 
166 

$1,409 

167 

168 

$196, 340 

26,865 

$16,302 

8627,581 

2,56,948 

$•236,212 

$507,300 

33.385 

$16,620 
1,.500 
$600 
9,000 

$3,600 

$1,435,368 
391,594 

$2^27,  .515 

$790,081 

148,257 

$160,219 

169 
170 
171 

it:^ 

ITS 

330 
$330 

1,072,946 
8773, 190 

154,344 
$110, 041 

297,346 
$179,915 

5,085 
$3  .594 

174 

17§ 

'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Idaho,  1;  Kansas,  1:  North  Dakota,  1;  South  Carolina,  1;  Wyoming,  1. 


150 


^lANUFACTURES. 


Table  31.— WOOLEN  GOODS: 


177 
178 


179 
180 

181 
182 
183 
184 
185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
190 
191 
192 
193 

194 

196 
196 
197 
198 

199 
200 
201 
202 
203 
204 
205 
206 
207 


208 

209 
210 

211 
212 
213 
214 
215 
216 
217 
218 

219 
220 
221 
222 
223 
224 
225 
226 
227 
228 
229 
230 
231 

232 
233 
234 


235 
236 
237 
238 

239 
240 
241 

242 
243 

244 
245 

246 
247 
248 
249 
250 
251 
252 
2')3 
254 
255 
256 
257 
258 
259 


Products — Continued. 

Total  value— Continued. 

All  wool  woolen  goods,  whether  woolen  or  worsted — Continued. 
Worsted  overeoutings  and  eloakings.  for  men's  or  women's  wear,  square 
yards. 

Value 

Wool  dress  goods,  sackings,  tricots,  ladies'  cloth,  broadcloth,  and  other 
all-wool  goods  tor  women's  wear,  and  opera  and  similar  flannels,  square 
yards. 

Value 

Worsted  dress  goods,  cassimerea.  serges,  and  other  worsted  goods  for 
women's  wear,  and  buntings,  square  yards. 

Value ." 

Carriage  cloths  of  all  weights,  square  yards 

Value 

Flannels  tor  underwear,  square  yards 

Value 

Blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Horse  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value 

Woven  shawls,  square  yards 

Value 

Union,  or  cotton  mixed,  woven  goods- 
Unions,  tweeds,  cheviots,  cassimeres,  or  other  goods  for  men's  wear, 
square  yards. 

Value 

Overcoatings  and  eloakings,  square  yards 

Value 

Sackings,  tricots,  and  dress  goods  for  women's  wear,  and  opera  and  simi- 
lar flannels,  square  yards. 

Value 

Flannels  for  underwear,  square  yards 

Value 

Blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Horse  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps,  with  weft  partly  or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted,  or 
hair,  or  cotton  weft  with  warp  of  wool — 
M'ool-fiUing  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  coatings,  suitings,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods  for  men's  wear,  not  specitied  below,  square  yards. 

Value 

Worsted-filling  cassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  coatings,  suitings,  and 
other  cotton-warp  goods  formen'swear,notspecified  below, square  yards. 

Value 

Wool- filling  overcoatings  and  eloakings, square  yards 

Value 

Astrakhans  and  similar  goods,  square  yards 

Value 

Satinets  and  linseys,  square  yards 

Value 

Worsted-filling  dress  goods,  delaines,  cassimeres.  serges,  mohairs,  alpacas, 
and  other  stuffs,  for  women's  wear,  square  yards. 

Value 

Wool-filling  dress  goods  and  repellents,  square  yards 

Value ". 

Domett  flannels  and  shirtings,  square  yards 

Value 

Linings.  Italian  cloths,  and  lastings,  square  yards 

Value 

Cotton-warp  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Horse  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value '. 

Upholstery  goods  and  sundries — 

Woolen  and  worsted  upholstery  goods,  square  yards 

Value 

Other  upholstery  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs^ 
Carpets- 
Ingrain,  2-ply,  square  yards 

Value 

Ingrain,  3-ply,  square  yards 

Value ." 

Felt  goods — 

Felt  cloths,  square  yards 

Value 

Trimming  and  lining  felts,  felt  skirts  and  skirting,  table  and  piano  covers, 
saddle  felts,  square  yards. 

Value 

.-Vll  other  felts 

Hats— 

^Vool  hats,  dozens 

Value 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale — 

Woolen  yarn — all  wool,  pounds 

\'alue 

Worsted  yarn  and  tops,  pounds 

Value 

Woolen  or  worsteiT  yam,  union  or  merino,  cotton  mixed,  pounds 

Value ." 

Mohair  and  similar  yarn,  pounds .' 

Value " 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds 

Value 

Wool  card  rolls,  pounds 

Val  ue 

Noils,  pounds 

Value 


.Sew  Hamp- 
shire. 


3,545,096 


$1,432,033 


1,087 

8807 

•2Si,  489 

881,402 

56,875 

835, 332 


1,081,060 

8441, 963 

52.949 

8-26, 860 

2,259,929 

8673, 175 
622, 651 
8116,837 


988,474 

$465,976 
75,000 

835,000 

5,475 

$3,660 


648,267 
$86, 166 


1,739,682 

$390,  '276 

12,800 

83,200 

551,011 

836, 734 

477, 856 

8133,724 

1,387,015 

$323,387 


48,093 
8-22, 141 
3.54. 4.53 
8177.. 584 
161,638 
$45, 671 


8,000 

81,600 

I.OIK) 

$.51X) 


372, 924 


$198, 892 
42,021 


833,095 


2,813 
$1,125 


2, 103, 591 

$1,874,030 

130,308 

$102,942 


1,164,768 
8462, 331 


2, 364, 063 
$930, 106 


432, 202 

8118, 855 

42,750 

860,000 


300,000 
8210,000 


New  York. 


2,349,6.57 


$956, 169 
217,195 

8125,614 

247, 998 

$■222, 725 

51,972 

817,168 

7,920 

84,7.50 

600 

$500 


93, 921 
877.011 

435, 781 

8138,771 
138, 768 

$130, 454 
712, 132 

8246, 317 
221,400 
840,366 


8419, 025 
64, 322 


864, 322 


91,009 

$49. 752 
272. 176 
$62,242 
591,4.54 
$100, 585 


115,500 
$32,580 
227,500 
$14,375 
150,000 
$180, 000 


$1,334,658 


$8,029 


491,900 
$80,490 


360,000 
$105, 000 


45.465 
$23,290 


North 
Carolina. 


1,646 
8823 


1,718 
8474 


319, -212 


897,670 
7,445 


$3,254 


26,404 
$8,202 


263, 599 
$102,409 


1,025 
8963 


89,201 
$48,965 


14,475 
$6,3.53 


Ohio. 


200,446 
$36,389 


6,000 

$8,000 

27,067 

$9,090 

285,633 

8132.045 

4,783 

$3,400 


400 
$180 


1'20, 000 

S6S,000 
100,460 
$24,100 

52,600 
$22,500 

72,000 
836,000 

15,000 
$27,500 


221,197 
$89, 773 


16,000 

$4,000 

4,230 

83,140 

23,500 

$3,813 
15,000 
$10,000 
30,000 
86,000 


•209,658 
$84,523 
537,500 
8215,000 
32,000 
824,000 


2,700 
$325 


12,000 
So,  400 


190, 250 
889,898 


302,853 
892,557 


6, 775 
$3,588 


WOOL. 


151 


BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Oregon, 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode      • 
Island. 

Tennessee. 

Texas. 

Utah. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

West  Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  other 
slates.' 

1.296 

81.367 
l.IOl 

8381 
1.735 

$1,490 

401.230 
$202, 315 

3,723 

83,724 
143, 518 

$76, 370 

17fi 

2.397.543 

81,010.031 
1.890,441 

$775,069 

26.000 

$16,800 

633,091 

82.38,201 

1,463,  .544 

8554,  913 

173,227 

$65,  959 

18. 270 

818,270 
14,394 

89,  .596 

64,917 

848, 181 

39,151 

$17,  .571 

1,376,534 
8500,562 

19. 125 
86,700 

188.839 

$.56. 961 
2.726 

81,363 

44,970 

$41,277 

178 

179 

180 

181 
IS'* 

304. 273 

$90, 377 

295, 797 

8180,626 

5,047 

81,584 

29,686 

$15,234 

7,438 
$2, '281 
18,843 
$8,028 

110.000 
834,000 
30.000 
89.000 
30,000 
812,000 

6,013 

$2,725 

31,605 

$15,484 

362, 212 

889,076 

24,413 

89,599 

309,412 
$103, 899 

3.51.. 555 
$126,273 

20,218 

812, 3(W 

21.5,017 

$127,175 

184 
185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
lOO 

331,184 
8236,3.31 

11.032.1.37 

83.108.779 

2,287.661 

81.146.490 

326. 393 

$-!;,3S3 

825,300 

8275, 105 

28,  660 

5,299 
$2,983 

99,  .527 

$53,  701 

19,784 
821,C!)8 

472,732 

8286,625 

10,  a52 
826,016 

804, 173 

$a57,948 

i<r> 

1,50,000 

840,000 

399 

8335 

1,165.363 

8782.578 

280. 696 

8213.772 

79.686 

847,  &56 

521,382 
$293,822 

17,229 
$9,283 

669, 461 
$234,949 

105 

1% 

14, 445 
893,  960 

401,564 

8113,940 
914,075 

8116,099 
175,000 
$2.5, 000 
loO,  000 
830.000 

10S 

TV) 

62, 406 
825,083 

51,. 5.52 
836.915 

3.000 

$700 

19.  930 

$7,280 

91,. 563 
$21,331 
317, 4.50 
$84,623 

135,020 

836,005 

47, 667 

829, 164 

•200 
•201 



1,.531 
8380 

1,600 
$1,6U0 

812, 195 

719.664 

$110,918 

"03 

0||f 

■'Ot 

34,125 

823,887 

1,7.5.5,9.54 

8444, 173 
12,960 

89,082 

■>Ofi 

'>n7 

8. 053,  .311 

82,176,211 
10,000 

$8,000 

142,0.58 

$138, 141 

4,438,883 

$844,294 
609, 141 

$108,332 

457,553 
8135,288 

763 
$407 

339,423 
$155,569 

323  475 

$168,190 
40 

820 

'>nft 

**09 

278, 375 
$97,431 

■>10 

■MS 

75, 765 

87,  .534 

6,004,325 

$1,878,835 
1,708,237 
8528,886 
1, 639, 745 
$258,378 
437,900 
857,520 
6, 665, 804 
8991,634 
2,291,495 
$104,727 

110,093 
833,060 

34,183 

$16,986 

1.103 

$582 
480 

$320 
859 

8572 

825.070 
8243.704 

24, 790 
815,814 

600 
8240 

2,750 
81,100 

5,009 
81,880 

117 

52,557 

824,088 

314 
$331 

72,666 

$13, 280 

100 

$45 

OOf) 

1,650 
$530 

35,788 
87,299 



o-r^ 

OO-f 

.57,-500 
823,000 

3,325 

$1,416 

10,721 
$10,396 

20, 319 
$8,054 

3,533 
$2,000 

23,472 

86, 1.57 

2,2.50 

$980 

43,006 

8130, 190 

346 

$103 

•yjfi 

fyy 

oog 

7,042 
83.086 

1,005 
81,512 

O^f) 

•i-^T 

5,21X1 

84.400 

8663. 174 

2.650 

$1,265 

543 

8380 

■Tj^ 





o^5 

o-^y 

239 

38 
$50 

241 

242 
243 

244 
245 

•>1R 



600 
$300 

26. 182. 718 

84. 444.. 560 

3S9.  .530 

$148,048 

10. 957. 382 

$1, 689,  446 

15,917 

819, 133 

2,355.364 

$362,169 

.59. 542 

824.216 

579,528 

$25S.  419 

120,540 

$62,784 

17,934 
810,225 

19,811 
812,126 

95, 445 
850,410 

39,008 
$20,013 

87,687 

&16,992 

250,000 

8157,737 

6,770 

84,062 

5  813 

248 
249 
250 
251 
2.52 
*»5? 

1,1S7.639 
3684,011 

9,9.59 
84,375 

977 
$487 



827,902 
$92, 1.55 
168.653 
867,016 

055 

9  300 
$4,050 

3,000 
81,200 

4.980 
$2. 125 

16,700 
$8,470 

22.125 
$8,998 

87,873 
$17,872 

49,880 
823,769 

1.500 
$750 

256 

257 

258 

259 

'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware.  2:  Idnho.  1-  Kansa-s,  1;  North  Dalcota,  1:  South  Carolina,  1;  Wyoming,  1. 


152 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  31.— WDOLEX  GOODS: 


New  Hamp- 
shire. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

North 
Carolina. 

Ohio. 

?fin 

Products— Continued. 

Total  value — Continued. 

Partly  manufactureil  produets  for  sale — Continued. 

Waste,  pounds 

175,681 
812, 1,S7 

20.000 
8200 
8150 
$75 

7.553 

8718 

?iii 

»2 

Shoddv,  pounds 

?fi;f 

' 

1                       1 

'>l'A 

Flocks,  pounds 

16,714 
SS80 

2,400 
8240 

VIS 

Vrtfi 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods — 
Hose  and  lialf  hose- 
Woolen — 

Half  hose,  dozens 

V67 

Value 

:::::;:;;;::::::::::::::"  "1 

?Mi 

1 

26 
$90 

?fi<) 

Value ■ 

no 

Merino  or  mixed — 

Half  hose,  dozens 

rr\ 

97? 

Cotton- 

1 

?7S 

Value 

V74 

?7S 

Value 

1 

?7fi 

?77 

'>7H 

Eiderdown  shawls,  dozens 

?7<» 

?sn 

•>S1 

?«•> 

""Ra 

?.S4 

5120,065 
81,060 

39 
S7, 431, 699 
86,067,605 

40 
10,331 

32 
3,535 

si,  832 
$2,340 

13 

84.7.55,393 
84,513,753 

13 
5,128 

25 
3,948 

$11,516 
81,730 

48 
$4,260,559 
83,956.999 

64 
8,517 

49 
4,133 

•) 
36 

71 
4,101 

4 
166 

852,830 
82,541 

32 
81,225,970 
$1,176,666 

35 
1,835 

33 
1,496 

1 
12 

15 
275 

2 
52 

Vftf) 

8616 

16 
8289,506 
$302,567 

16 
608 

6 
305 

?Sfi 

Comparison  of  products: 

?S7 

Value  for  census  year 

■>ss 

■)S9 

Power: 

?<in 

Total  horsepower .          

Owned— 

Engines — 
Steam— 

Number 

w? 

•><t3 

Gas  or  gasoline — 

Number 

?<M 

?<)5 

Water  wheels- 
Number .  .. 

82 
6,469 

7 
225 

1 
2 

.50 
50 

10 
905 

16 
253 

Wfi 

?<t7 

Electric  motors — 

Number 

MR 

?9q 

Other  power- 

son 

Horsepower  

sni 

Rented— 

Electric,  horsepower 

_4 
77 

50 

w 

Other  kind,  horsepowej' 

275 

ws 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

5 

35 

1 

13 

7 
7 
6 

1 

1(M 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  proprietors 
and  firm  members: 
Total  number  of  establishments 

43 
2 
1 
4 
•? 

13 
14 

5 
1 

1 

13 
1 
1 

65 

15 

7 

13 

10 

5 

9 

5 

1 

16 
3 

6 
3 

1 
3 

sns 

ROfi 

Under  .o 

807 

.5  to  20 

sns 

21  to  ,iO 

snt 

51  to  100 

1 
4 
4 
2 

81  n 

101  to  250 

sn 

251  to  500 

31? 

501  to  1,000 : 

,S13 

Over  1,000 

WOOL. 


15J^ 


BY  STATES,   1900— Continned. 


Oregon. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode 
Island. 

Tennessee. 

Texas. 

Utah. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

West  Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  Other 
states.^ 

300 
8105 

71,9.51 
83,442 

500 
$1,50 

16,225 
8677 

1,9.56 
$265 





* 

263 

33, 820 
81,325 

3,378 

811,462 

693 

$2,180 

852 
$1,806 

80 

$180 

207 

$1, 656 

1.238 

$4,641 

264 

I 

267 

130 
8420 

269 

i 

272 

1 

1 

274 

1 



276 





283 

$636 

$475,579 
8371,997 

156 
$23,37.S,o62 
$19, 174, 089 

192 
20,718 

167 
17,986 

1 
15 

73 
1,653 

5 

167 

8160 
880,269 

22 
$5,263,938 
83  955,863 

26 
5,883 

37 
4,085 

1 
36 

46 
1.692 

2 
20 

8100 
82,  C64 

4.5 
81,471,743 
81, 464, 622 

50 
2,712 

21 
2,084 

1 
6 

32 
564 

1 
20 

834,267 

$1,074 

$2,881 
$180 

23 
8563, 124 
$461,243 

28 
1,017 

12 

437 

1 
8 

26 
492 

2 
80 

$1,360 

$30 

28 
8378,786 
8347,636 

33 

1,1.58 

19 
921 

1 
6 

21 
191 

824, 740 

812, 190 

29 
81,295,817 
81,207,142 

32 
2,076 

20 

867 

10 
$867,224 
8765, 973 

10 
1, 113 

4 
1.57 

2 
835,467 
881,701 

3 

208 

3 
208 

5 
8216,433 
8213,  .595 

6 
477 

4 
162 

23 

82,  672, 646 
$2,399,009 

23 
4,657 

15 
1,810 

6 
$789, 331 
»761,816 

7 
590 

6 
390 

286 
287 
288 

289 
290 

291 
292 

293 

12 
956 

8 
315 

32 
2,699 

1 
48 

26 
1,201 

7 
190 

1 
10 

095 

40 

298 

300 

5 
45 
31 

26 

301 

897 

38 

8 

303 

11 

1 
1 

193 
16 
28 
32 
47 
29 
26 
10 
4 
1 

61 
17 
16 
5 
5 
3 
4 
1 

3 
1 

6 

23 
6 
2 

28 
1 
7 

12 
6 
1 
1 

33 

7 

11 

8 
4 
2 

1 

32 
7 
9 
6 
1 
5 
4 

7 

304 
30.i 

2 
1 

300 

5 
3 
3 
11 
3 
1 

3 
2 

3 
4 

1 
1 

i 

2 
7 
5 

308 

1 
3 

309 

1 

1 

310 

1 

313 

'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2:  I  laho,  1;  Kansas,  1;  North  Dakota,  1;  South  Carolina,  1;  Wyoming,  1. 


154 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  32.— WORSTED  GOODS:  BY  STATES,  1900. 


United 
States. 


Connecti- 
cut. 


Maine. 


Massachu- 
setts. 


New  Jer- 
sey. 


New  York. 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


Rhode  Is- 
land. 


All  other 
states.* 


Number  of  esWiblishments 

Charaeter  of  organizalion: 

liKi  ivid  ual 

Firm  ami  limiteii  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  (irm  members 

Salaried  officials,  cierks,  etc.: 

Totiil  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Sal  a  ri  es 

Generalsupcrintendents,  managers,  clerks,  and 
salesmen — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men — 

Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 
Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during 

the  vear 

Least  'number  employed  at  any  one  time  during 

the  year 

Average  number 

"Wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Avei-age  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  niunber 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  numVier   of  wage-earners,  including  piece- 
workers, employed  during  each  month: 
Men,  16  years  "and  over — 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

Januar.v , 

February 

March , ," 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November ._ 

Deeem  her ' 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January 

Februan,- 

March 

April 

May 

Juiie 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Spinners- 
Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Weavers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over ^ 

Women,'l6  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards ', 

Combing  machines,  number 

Of  American  manufacture 

Of  foreign  manufacture 


10 


S132, 168, 
$6,731 
S13, 279 
S27, 026, 
$85, 129. 


1, 
$2,342, 


$440, 


1, 
$1,901, 


1, 
$1,837, 


122 
i,819 


49,848 

57,008 

$20,092,738 


20, 
$11, 300, 


25, 
87,831, 


$961, 


.,  995 

■,852 
,580 

,426 

i,194 

62 

;,  789 

:,932 

78 

685 
,194 
214 
980 


1 
9 

$5,0.>»,669 
$266, 900 
$492, 208 
$849,  30.i 

$3,446,246 
1 


$121, 


14 
$41,200 


42 

$80,583 

41 
$79, 833 

1 

$750 


2, 434 

1,905 

2,198 

$846,901 

1,379 
$609, 947 

661 
$209,410 

158 
$27,544 


1,350 
1,259 
1,284 
1,348 
1,406 
1,343 
l,39t 
1,397 
1,409 
1,441 
1,440 
1,  485 

653 
629 
611 
654 
665 
649 
645 
649 
689 
686 
704 
704 

156 
151 
151 
152 
162 
152 
154 
1.53 
160 
168 
165 
172 


$1,486,035 

$17,  .500 

$110,081 

$250, 489 

$1, 108, 565 

3 

27 
$26,782 

2 
$6,000 


25 
$20,782 

19 

$18,598 


128 
178 

1 


6 

82,184 


955 
7&5 


364 
8154, 958 


420 
$131,809 


91 
$18, 596 


339 
344 
345 
3.54 
360 
365 
367 
371 
378 
384 
371 
390 


.393 


404 
408 
414 
423 
418 
428 
445 
457 
455 

83 
87 
85 


93 


10 
12 
23 

$45,  "90, 300 
$2, 988,  .592 
81, 539. 224 
$,S,  .5X5, 662 

829,676,822 


503 
8796,250 


35 

$117,004 


468 
8679, 246 

406 
$646,037 

62 
$33,209 


21,035 

16,414 

18,867 

87,055,585 

9,380 
$4, 177, 429 

8,410 
$2,654,009 

1,077 
8224, 147 


9,944 
9  041 
9,258 
9,338 
9,168 
9,185 
9,100 
9,180 
9,343 
9,760 
9,  .516 
9, 727 

7,921 
8,089 
8,179 
8,439 
8,477 
8,588 
8,340 
8,269 
8,420 
8,616 
8,758 
8,820 

1,017 
1,046 
1,059 
1,071 
1,072 
1,049 
1,033 
1,043 
1,076 
1,126 
1,148 
1,182 


482 

1, 1.52 

298 

2,178 
2,218 


4 
4 

812,080,721 
8171,902 
$1,608,247 
$2,643,417 
87,657,155 
13 

112 

$197,984 

7 
$27,300 


105 
$170,6841 

104 
$170, 320 

1 
$364 


4,907 

2,967 

3,910 

$1,097,197 

1,247 
$513,670 

2,207 
8520,486 

456 
863,041 


967 
1,043 
1,087 
1,121 
1,149 
1,180 
1,158 
1,319 
1,396 
1,471 
1,517 
1,556 

1,809 
1,825 
1,918 
1,917 
2,020 
2,072 
2,186 
2,327 
2,423 
2,549 
2,698 
2,737 

396 
413 
425 
426 
409 
440 
466 
471 
502 
495 
523 
511 


238 
306 
112 

271 
897 


1,411 

1,199 

39 

181 
358 
103 
255 


88,809,390  819,396,5.58 
8.11.5,170    8417,832 


$802, 70O 
81,868,341 
85,623,179 


IM 

,367 


29 

121 

6 

115 


5 

1,095 


129 
8231,272 


123 
8227, 695 


6 

83,577 


3,276 

3,726 

$1,201,228 

1,613 
$645,539 

1,737 
$503,777 

376 
$61,912 


1,581 
1,622 
1,645 
1,662 
1,601 
1,523 
1,618 
1,595 
1,595 
1,642 
1,658 
1,616 

1,746 
1,769 
1,778 
1,756 
1,697 
1,618 
1,680 
1,686 
1,693 
1,777 
1,823 
1,824 

368 
365 
371 
377 
362 
346 
376 
375 
407 
390 


248 
447 
158 

486 

3.59 

44 

251 
255 


81.609,471 

85, 035, 186 

$12,334,069 

35 

188 
8277,081 

11 
$34,275 


177 
$242,806 


163 
$236, 635 


14 

«,171 


11, 335 

8,852 

10,201 

83,337,491 


81,708,frl0 

4,596 
$1,309,610 

1,829 
8319, 241 


3,584 
3,633 
3,647 
3,665 
3,812 
3,811 
3,706 
3,754 
3,838 
3,905 
3,958 
3,998 

4,239 
4,378 
4,380 
4,423 
4,668 
4,672 
4,557 
4,623 
4,605 
4,814 
4,886 
4,906 

1,743 
1,830 
1,768 
1,785 
1,866 
1,856 
1,802 
1,836 
1,855 
1,861 
1,883 
1,869 


543 

,773 
652 


625 


319 
349 


128 

318 

29 

289 


13 
11 
27 

834,949,769 

82, 174, 879 
83,799,161 
87, 098, 313 
821, 877, 416 


322 
8693,869 

31 
8139,218 


291 
8464,651 


262 
8438,267 


29 
816,381 


16,794 

13,468 

14, 896 

8.5,537,169 

7,170 
$3,200,452 

6,*12 
$2,  IW,  585 

1,384 
8232, 132 


6,674 
6,726 
6,973 
7,179 
7,265 
6,987 
7,143 
7,305 
7,361 
7,401 
7,567 
7,569 

5,946 
6,087 
6,236 
6,322 
6,347 
6,232 
6,211 
6,373 
6,309 
6,489 
6,753 
6,793 

1,358 
1,381 
1,366 
1,380 
1,399 
1,3.53 
1,410 
1,390 
1,381 
1,369 
1,402 
1,424 


84,600,078 
8179,207 
8318, 335 
$696,046 

$3,406,490 
2 

27 
861,102 

12 
839,400 


15 
821,702 

12 
820,522 

3 

81,180 


2,548 

2,191 

2,335 

8711,804 

666 
8289, 436 

1,456 
8397,423 

213 
$24,945 


608 
624 
637 
632 
628 
653 
679 
695 
702 
715 
711 
703 

1,393 
1,406 
1,442 
1,407 
1,409 
1,430 
1,451 
1,494 
1,505 
1,.506 
1,517 
1,514 

202 
204 
204 
206 
209 
214 
219 
217 
222 
219 
224 
219 


373 
937 
287 

2,883 

1,120 

13 

39 
95 
30 

44 

881 

568 
869 

10 

25 

246 

270 

50 

220 

41 
10 
31 

ilneludes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operati(ms  of  individual  establishments  mav  not  be  disclosed.  These  establishments  are 
distributed  as  follows:  Kentucky,  1;  New  Hampshire,  2:  Ohio.  1;  Vermont,  1:  West  \'irginia,  1;  Wisconsin,  2. 

'Includes  items  as  follows:  Gotten  upholstering  plush,  $93,000;  mohair  matchings,  814,127;  waste,  $10,293;  all-cotton  goods,  $50,930;  worsted  and  cotton  twi.sts. 
$19,748. 


WOOL. 

Table  32 — WORSTED  GOODS:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


155 


Machinen' — Continued. 

Spindleii.  number 

Spinning- 
Woolen  

\Vnr.>*ted 

(.'ot  ton 

DoubliuK— 

Wool  e  n 

Worsted 

Cotton 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number 

Br(nid,  50  inches  or  over,  reed  space — 

On  woolen  g(  H>ds 

On  worsted  g<  lods 

Narrow,  under  nO  incnes,  reed  space — 

On  woolen  goods 

On  worsted  goods 

Hand- 
On  woolen  or  worsted  goods 

Braiders 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  01'  works  

Taxes,  not  ineludinjj  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sun- 

dr.v  expenses  not  hitherto  included 

r'l  infract  work 

Material->J  used: 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purcha^ied,  pounds... 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds. . 

Cost 

Foreign     and     domestic,     etc.,    scoured, 

pounds 

Animal  hair  and  tur— 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair,  pounds 

Cost 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and 

fur.  pounds 

Cost , 

Cotton,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials  not  made  in  mill— 

Shoddv,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost , 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  noils,  pounds... 

Cost 

Tops,  pounds 

Cost 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill- 
Woolen,  pounds , 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Merino,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds , 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of 

the  product , 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil,  for;  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs, 

gallons , 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuflfs , 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat , 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Cotton  yarn  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Products: 

Total  value : , 

All-wool  woven    goods,  whether  woolen    or 
worsted: 
Wool  cloths,  doeskins,  cassimercs.  cheviots, 
tweeds,  indigo  flannels,  and  broadcloths, 

for  men's  wear,  square  yards 

Value 

W'orsteii  coatings,  serges,  and  suitings,  for 

men's  wear,  square  yards 

Value 

Woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  kerseys, 
etc..  for  men's  or  women's  wear,  square 

yards 

Value 

Worsted  overcoatings  and  cloakings,  for 

men's  or  women's  wear,  square  yards 

Value ." , 


United 
States. 


L371,0'26 

133, 504 

842,  730 

91,152 

16,  .522 

282, 914 

4,204 

26. 372 

2.240 
14. 699 

950 
8,481 

2 

2,830 

86, 767, 611 
$■286, 920 
8380. 210 

8ft,  121, 974 
$978,507 

877,075,222 

57, 263, 393 
315,1,59,048 
122,714.543 
$29,147,093 

103, 338, 616 

1,  742,  .573 
3391.332 

1,905,967 
$972, 207 

855,898 

$79, 960 

12,079 

5, 276, 751 

$524,515 

1,807,827 

$303, 644 

1,SS5,8S7 

$5.58.  494 

55, 679 

$12.  ,8.56 

5, 2ti0. 775 

$2, 701.  .582 

2, 847,  091 

$1, 402, 189 

18.896.863 

$14,704,172 

419. 434 

$147, 891 

13, 420, 590 

$3,032,039 

26, 418 

$144, 971 

47,533 

$166, 672 

1,314 

$1,052 

$74, 535 

13,486,089 

$485, 397 

488, 703 

$221,981 

$2,627,140 

$1. 226. 938 

879.  3:« 

8564.160 

$1,818,608 

$527,418 

3,237,131 

$120, 314, 344 


3, 582, 788 
82, 508, 918 

50, 204, 572 
839, 552, 773 


1, 718, 008 
$1, 705, 645 

16,690 
$7, 778 


Connecti- 
cut. 


25,460 
12, 214 


3,230 
6,540 


88 
700 


$310,267 
$10,016 
$19, 829 

$273,235 

$7, 187 

$2,971,926 

776, 154 
$266, 400 
2, 400, 394 
$643, 239 

1, 744, 604 


2,500 
$375 

116,292 
$17, 555 
157, 832 


58,493 
$34,580 

10,301 

86,  .592 

1,737.214 

$1,506,184 


672, 875 

$114, 407 

134 

81, 332 

219 

8854 


734,431 
822,  330 

21,  491 

88,199 

$121,729 

854,894 


818,859 
$51,788 
$33, 511 


$4,539,814 


719, 351 
8601, 636 

2, 180, 270 
$2, 523, 127 


91,257 
8101, 751 


Maine. 


9,300 


6,500 


2,.S00 
"'i99 


162 
"37 


8190, 380 

8500 

81,117 

$188,763 


81,102,307 

711,000 

8142, 200 

268,500 

861,755 

658,800 

129,500 

$»9, 210 

858, 000 

$265, 980 


Massachu- 
setts. 


429, 526 

33, 674 
263,  .594 
50, 032 

2,524 

79, 654 

48 

9,584 

424 

4,469 


New  Jer- 
sey. 


107.884 


4, 140 
7S,8S8 


24,8.56 


New  York. 


89,149 

9,968 
53,354 


3,579 

22, 248 


1,394 


1.50 
1.174 


500 

$1,681,861 
$46,539 
8186,  .366 

81, 362, 930 
$86, 026 

$25,315,707 

24, 850, 427 
$6,511,450 
39,012,421 
$9, 106, 578 

3.5,231,431 

1,562,491 

83-29, 0-10 

256, 317 

$117, 991 


95, 000 

845, 305 

584, 172 

$381,4.51 


69, 170 
822, 583 


261,011 
$10, 006 

5,  895 
$3,046 
$25, 896 
$29,418 
$10,450 
$6,  .500 
$27,828 
320, 679 


$1,779,652 


663,508 
^64,074 


4,4'25 
2, 562, 632 
$250, 878 

643,563 

$93, 891 

184, 747 

8,')5, 471 

3, 238 

$848 

1,490,776 

$705,  605 

477, 831 

$2.80, 328 

4,870,028 

$4,257,607 

172,488 

834,  .554 

2.640,290 

$842,712 

16 

896 

17,  621 

863.922 

284 

$229 


5,408,939 
$156, 422 

144, 241 

863, 130 

8869, 968 

$449,  '281 

834,368 

8182, 460 

8761,558 

8147, 320 

1,956,949 

$40,557,363 


2,094,678 
81, 396, 451 

21, 180, 544 
$17, 413, 922 


1, 365, 790 
$1,388,555 


$027,527 

$7,400 

316,611 

3459, 165 
344, 351 

34, 547, 694 

4, 734, 448 
$1,411,072 

8,9.57.098 
31,951,047 

6,113,358 


29 
14,965 


16.093 

$3,038 

265,000 

$101, 997 


532, 9.58 
$300. 164 

282,  .TOO 

8169, 100 

258, 860 

$174,401 

.500 

$200 

338,  996 

$62, 920 


1,806 
$4,965 


31, 317 

577, 905 
323,390 

31,393 
$14,383 
$91,879 
$62.  .571 

$4,204 

$24, 892 

$100,635 

$41,562 


36,823,721 


33,000 
89, 530 

770, 128 
$539,090 


1,515 


18 
1,003 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


250,854 

16, 374 
175,566 


996 

57, 418 


487 


320 

1,718 


209 
372 


$241,410 
81,832 
820, 638 

$218,940 


83,406,918 

504, 757 

$158,035 

10, 338, 4-12 

82, 163, 772 

5,209,083 


1 
508 
$37 

14, 817 
33,253 


380, 514 
8282, 263 


966, 014 

3214, 838 

1,350 

$3,712 

15 

3101 


$54,073 

1,016,293 

339, 477 

14,230 

$6,980 

82a5, 681 

365,  6-28 


328, 875 
$113, 721 
$36,472 


$5,958,259 


58,462 
860,072 

3,039,235 
$2,527,599 


64,653 


31,686,689 
$116,023 
$20,  749 

$1, 133, 745 
$416, 172 

$14, 737i 134 

15, 331, 105 
33, 619, 895 
20, 390, 877 
86,57,"),  285 

29, 552, 613 

50,000 

312, 500 

10, 102 

81,8.50 

856, 898 
879, 960 
1, 112 
223,  364 
831, 157 

28, 129 

84,640 

92,939 

325, 023 

52,441 

312,008 

543,353 

$291, 944 

969, 523 

$372, 045 

2, 940, 497 

$2, 130,  476 

130, 756 

859,  ,561 

2,  685, 332 

$561, '249 

5,845 

$56,  -243 

2,729 

$8,777 


813,429 

2,361,358 

8101,340 

149, 838 
860,  997 
8190,253 
8161, 1.51 
$22, 856 
$108, 710 
$126, 399 
$109,387 


322, 109, 392 


9,000 
39,000 

3,831,644 
$2,619,437 


403,017 

43,888 

222, 182 

41,120 

6,193 

8.5,478 

4,156 

6,589 

86 
4,841 

654 
1,007 

1 

1,700 

31,833,985 

8104,610 

892, 150 

$1,335,015 
8302, 210 

821, 490,  .592 

9,  .504, 898 
32,779,182 
33,459,274 
86,771,448 

20,006,151 

682 

8682 

781,518 

3586,386 


Rhode  Is- 
land. 


All  other 

states.i 


3^,352 


3,920 
"3,'638 


1,154 
632 


1,852 


$295,492 

'$■22,' 750 

8150, 181 
$122,661 

$3,502,944 

860,604 

$270,814 

7, 887, 537 

$1, 873, 969 

4,822,576 


6,  .507 
2, 472, 782 
$241,111 

988, 933 
$181,267 
1,185,349 
$306, 905 


2,620,226 
$1,361,520 

991, 837 

$516, 863 

7, 296, 627 

$5, 378, 892 

115, 69(1 

$.53,571; 


14,969 

$7, 769 

20,099 

$11, 956 

,828,951 

$592,898 


3, 973, 373 

8895,  .521 

18,688 

$82,046 

25, 143 

$88, 0.53 

1,030 

8823 

'2,17.5,540 

$317,809 

385 

$1,542 

85,716 

2,845,308 
$121,958 

■280,844 
$10,474 

112, 939 
$.59,874 
$877, 948 
8348,314 
87, 461 
8185,661 
8516, 156 
812S,3'29 
1, 280, 182 

8,676 

85, 372 

8213,786 

855, 681 

88,193 

8117, 5'23 

$15,158 

$33,341,3-29 

$5,204,914 

658,797 
$413,229 

9,500 
$19,000 

16,629,693 
$12,684,943 

1,909.550 
8980,681 

196,308 
$131,470 

16,690 
$7,778 

1  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  thnt  the  operation?  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed.    These  establishments  are 
distributed  as  follows:  Kentucky,  1;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Ohio.  1:  Vermont,  1:  West  Virginia,  1;  Wisconsin.  2. 


156 


MANUFACTURES. 


T.\BLE  :5l3.— WORSTED  GOODS:  BY  STATES,   1900— Cnntimieil. 


United 
States. 

Connecti- 
cut. 

Maine. 

Ma.ssachu- 

setts. 

New  Jer- 
sey. 

New  York. 

Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Rhode  Is- 
land. 

All  other 
states.' 

Products— Continued. 

Total  value— Continued. 

All-wool    woven    goods,   whether  woolen    or 

worsted— Continued. 

Wool  dress  goods,  sackings,  tricots,  ladies 

clolh,  broadcloth,    and    other    all-wciol 

goody,  for  women's  wear,  and  opera  and 

3, 320, 974 
$1,698,459 

.54  480  .569 

1,068,475 
$580,910 

13, 026. 286 

$4. 03."*.  468 

l.s7,  .530 

842,194 

1,609,366 
8773, 991 

4,368,476 
$1,310,543 

604,2.58 
$168,528 

3,922,075 
31,970,130 

138,886 

9,835,726 
$4,050,351 

375,000 

Worsted  dress  goods,  cassimeres.  serges,  and 
other  worsted  goods,  for  women's  wear, 

956.  6.53 
$539,411 

523,  .529 
$242, 670 

21.847,825 

$14,994.-513 

187,530 

842,194 

87,902 

372,248 

1,179,014 

$880,441 

411,902 

$3.53,  .864 

1.071,204 
8328,243 

2,073,990 
$1,356,735 

10,540,927 
$6,401,491 

39, 611,  .117 
$8, 466. 106 

347.  882 
8155.042 

6,987,330 
$1,963,139 

43, 614 
$62, 130 
$4.54.995 

3,  .556, 375 

$1,052,508 

41,659.360 

829,358,056 

2,537.303 

$1,903,639 

788, 166 

$705,211 

76, 013 

819,760 

12,0.52,814 

83.335,251 

7, 184, 821 

81, 162,  610 

297,628 

$11,783 

$1,077,474 

$793,338 

145 

$113,  635, 037 

$85,483,346 

185 
97, 383 

399 

73,180 

4 

220 

147 

20,491 

26 

1,151 

1 

5 

1,801 
535 
260 

82.842.940 

87,902 
872,248 

78,969 
853,32:3 

161,362 
$197, 275 

Union  or  cotton  mixed  woven  goods: 

Unions,   tweeds,  cheviots,   cassimeres,  or 
othergoods  for  men's  wear,  square  yards. 

83,126 
860,375 

1,016,920 

8766.743 

2.50,540 

8156,  .589 

901, 970 
$273,182 

109, 166 
$109,166 

621,131 
$323,010 

3,577,092 
$984,279 



Overcoatings  and  cloakings,  square  yards.. 

Sackings,  tricots,  and  dress  goods  for  wo- 
men's wear,  and  opera  and  similar  flan- 

169, '234 
$55,061 

460.,  000 
$330,000 

2,084,766 
$1,083,222 

21,794,250 
84,128,1.59 

347,882 
$156,042 

6,309,634 
$1.699. 430 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps,  with  weft  partly 
or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted,  or  hair  (or  cotton 
weft  with  warp  of  wool): 
Wool-tilling    cassimeres,  doeskins,    jeans, 
tweeds,  coatings,  suitings,  and  other  cot- 
ton-warp goods,  for  men's  w^ear,  not  speci- 

471,825 
8429,255 

260,470 
$144,726 

716,334 
$342,378 

326,665 
$145,936 

6,738,436 
$4,585,717 

8,783,276 
81,696,385 

Worsted-filling  cassimeres.  doeskins,  jeans, 
tweeds.eoatings,  suitings,  and  other  cot- 
ton-warp goods,  for  men's  wear,  notspeci- 

628,268 
$1.57,960 

633.429 
$106. 037 

207,856 

8106,856 

W'orsted-lilling  dress  goods,  delaines,  cassi- 
meres, serges,  mohairs,  alpacas,  and  other 
stufTs.  for  women's  wear,  square  yards  ... 

4,823,470 
81,651,246 

W'ool-Iilling   dress  goods  and    repellents, 

Linings,  Italian  cloths,  and  lastings,  square 

483,651 
$172, 326 

69,584 
826, 577 

124. 561 
$.54,806 

VnlnV 



Upholstery  goods  and  sundries — 

Woolen    and    worsted    upholstery   goods, 



7,314 
$5,130 

36,300 
857,  COO 
$326,000 

$39,025 

434, 192 

$162,982 

8,82.8,568 

84,990,268 

878,506 
$746,808 

245,616 
$102,899 

890,976 

2,979,257 

8825. 7a5 

16,424,117 

811,733,065 

1,337,292 
$1,002,022 

Partly  manufacturefi  products  for  sale— 

63,671 

$24,194 

678,726 

$577,010 

79,25.5 

$39,  627 

4,365,683 

$3,395,322 

358,500 
$304,629 

980,510 
$701,166 

8,789,306 
$6,789,859 

321,505 

$164,809 

275,875 

$279,287 

76, 013 

819,  760 

2, 099.  777 

$651,7'20 

3. 292, 631 

$410,317 

36,443 

3699 

8744,866 

869.357 

39 
832,575,860 
824,278,180 

51 
22,562 

% 
18,944 

1.233.9.50 

8866,  737 

Woolen  or  worsted  yarn,  union  or  merino, 

cotton  mixed,  pounds 

Value 

Mohair  and  similar  yarn,  pounds 

6,675 
$6,225 

260,000 
8316,800 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds 

Value 

Noils,  pounds 

55,964 
$11,937 
125,040 
$21,698 
4,926 
$125 
$93,000 

292,750 
$64,405 
21,000 
$3,780 

4,879,286 

$1,281,606 

1, 185, 361 

$221,900 

164,329 

86,768 

$84, 730 

$609,933 

34 
$38,622,603 
$29,635,477 

44 
38,611 

161 

27,001 

1 

10 

64 

10.262 

15 

740 

708,793 

$229, 424 

692,392 

8205, 683 

41,000 

$1,700 

810,293 

$44, 521 

10 

86,399,677 
85,  340, 615 

11 
5,576 

15 
5,251 

526,925 

8165.  .567 

261. 804 

$36,700 

13.000 

8260 

$59,780 

2,984,381 

$793, 279 

6.53,581 

$106, 024 

30,000 

$3,000 

860,930 

869,527 

38 
$20,271,290 
813,899,155 

.51 
14,314 

63 
13,860 

504.938 
$137,313 

Waste  pounds                

953,012 

$156, 508 

8,930 

8231 

All  other  products                .   .          

814,127 

$19,748 

Comparison  of  products: 

Vumber  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years. 
Value  for  census  year 

10 
$4,539,814 
$3,466,430 

10 
3,949 

17 
1,548 

2 
$1,579,552 
$1, 104, 443 

3 
1,386 

11 
651 

5 
$4,601,327 
83,705,028 

7,255 

31 

3,475 

3 

210 

14 

3,310 

5 

255 

1 

5 

7 
$5,144,914 
$4,154,018 

Power: 

8 

3,730 

Owned—* 

Engines- 
Steam  number .     .     .        

12 

2,450 

16 
2,340 

0 

.55 

1 
75 

1 
100 

2 
60 
2 

46 

45 

3,108 

1 

5 

4 

1,230 

1 

60 

Rented— 

630 
30 

598 

225 

348 

605 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

190 

70 

Uncludes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  indiv: 
distributed  as  follows:  Kentucky,  1;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Ohio,  1;  Vermont,  1;  West  Virginia, 


idual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed. 
1;  Wisconsin,  2. 


These  establishments  are 


WOOL. 


157 


Table  32 WORSTED  GOODS:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


United 
States. 

Connecti- 
!       cut. 

j,„i__        Massachu- 
*"""*•           setts. 

New  Jer- 
sey. 

New  York. 

Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Rhode  Is- 
land. 

All  other 
states. I 

EslablishmentH  oliissilied  by  number  of  persona  em- 
ployed, not  including  proprietors  and  firm  members: 

186 
1 

10 
17 
42 
53 
28 
22 
12 

1 

10 

_3  1                 45 

11 

7 

51 

51 
1 
1 
4 
11 
20 
5 
5 
4 

8 

r>  to  '*0 

4 
5 

3 
7 
11 
14 
8 
8 

2 

21  to  50.            

1   

M  to  100 

2' 

2 

2 

11 
9 
6 
6 

4 

4 

i. 

1 

101  to  250                   

3 
1 

1 
1 

3 

2 

2:'>1  to  nOO 

2 

1 

2 

2 

Over  1  000 

!:::::::::::: 

1 

•  Includes  states  ha%ing  les.s  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed.    These  establishments  are 

distriliuted  ns  follows:  Kentucky.  1:  New  Hampshire.  2;  Ohio,  1:  Vermont.  1;  West  Virginia,  1;  Wisconsin,  2. 

Table  33.— CARPETS  AND  RUGS,  OTHER  THAN  RAG:  BY  STATES,  1900. 


Niunber  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

Ini'urporatcd  company 

Miscellaneous 

Capital: 

Total 

Lauii 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  anil  sundries 

Proprietors  and  lirm  members 

Salaried  otlicials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Oflicers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number  

.Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  duriiig  the  year. 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 


Wages 


Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Womeu,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during 
each  month: 
Jlen.  16  years  and  over— 

.lanuary 

Febi'uarv 

Manli 

April 

May 

J  one 

July 

.\ugust 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women.  16  years  and  over — 

.lanuary' 

FeliruaVy 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August f 

September 

October  

November 

December 

Children,  "_nder  16  years — 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

Octol>er 

November 

December 


United  States. 


133 

48 

49 

35 

1 

$44,449,299 

$2,641,774 

55,717,961 

811,49.5,0.% 

$24, 594,  ,50H 

111 

6X7 
$881,398 


$173, 931 

635 
S707, 467 

607 
$693,  .532 

28 
$13, 935 

30, 175 

2.5,734 

28,411 

$11,121,383 

13,860 
$6,651,180 

12, 468 
84, 113, 142 

2, 083 
$357, 061 


13, 828 
13, 915 
13,86.5 
13, 428 
13, 783 
13, 837 
13,923 
l:i,916 
14, 018 

11,  048 
14,100 
13, 6.59 

12, 285 

12,  ,521 
12, 498 
12,  082 
12, 331 
12, 368 
12, 497 
12,561 
12, 604 
12,  641 
12, 792 
12. 436 

1,991 
2,093 
2,091 
2,018 
2,088 
2,083 
2,115 
2,113 
2,121 
2, 063 
2,079 
2,  111 


Massachu- 

New 

New- 

Pennsyl- 

All other 

setts. 

Jersey. 

York. 

vania.  ' 

states.  I 

8 

13 

12 

93 

7 

1 

5 

41 

1 

2 

5 

1 

$1,4.87.031 

5 

7 

42 
10 

7 

6 

89,400,829 

$12,870,200 

$17,9.57,607 

$2, 733, 632 

$614, 572 

3120,015 

$876,  306 

8936,875 

894,006 

81,  .503, 894 

8260, 137 

$939,963 

$2,70.5,0.50 

8308, 917 

$2,010,830 

$282, 860 

$3, 086, 323 

$5, 294, 986 

8820,057 

$.5,271,533 

8824,019 

$7,967,608 

$9,020,696 

$1,510,652 

1 

3 

3 

103 

1 

71 

47 

189 

336 

44 

8127,264 

$73,197 

$250,169 

8375,483 

85.5,286 

7 

9 

10 

17 

9 

$38,200 

$39,500 

$40,500 

$34,868 

820,863 

64 

38 

179 

319 

35 

$89,064 

$33,697 

8209, 669 

8340,615 

831, 422 

62 

35 

172 

303 

35 

$88, 128 

$32,215 

$205, 7.S2 

$332, 985 

834,422 

2 
$936 

3 

81,482 

$3  887 

16 
$7, 630 

4,890 

1,290 

9,040 

13,480 

1,475 

3,742 

1,124 

7,681 

12, 166 

1,021 

4.480 

1,171 

8,603 

12,919 

1,238 

$1,720,289 

8379,423 

83,308,438 

$5,330,643 

8382,590 

2,022 

759 

3,911 

6,608 

660 

$996,216 

8283,005 

$1,887,556 

$3,269,567 

8214,836 

1,954 

326 

4,112 

5,461 

615 

$629,638 

884,881 

$1,313,904 

81,926,024 

$158,695 

504 

86 

.580 

8.50 

63 

$94,435 

$11, 537 

$106, 978 

8135, 052 

$9,059 

2,075 

762 

3,873 

6,620 

608 

2,060 

746 

3,903 

6, 6.59 

547 

1,970 

759 

3,899 

6,698 

539 

1,635 

732 

3,896 

0,613 

552 

2,043 

727 

3,904 

6,  .5.58 

551 

2,083 

724 

3,944 

6.  .540 

546 

2,114 

763 

3,946 

6,  .5.51 

549 

2,099 

783 

3,949 

6,  ,530 

555 

2, 125 

774 

3,969 

6,  .577 

673 

2,109 

782 

3,967 

6,602 

588 

2,123 

785 

3, 996 

6,596 

600 

1,825 

777 

3,691 

6,755 

611 

2,058 

324 

3,889 

5,481 

533 

2,077 

325 

4,002 

5,  .516 

601 

2,003 

321 

4.0.50 

5,  .533 

591 

1,-563 

314 

4,090 

5,477 

638 

1,8.59 

319 

4,142 

5,376 

635 

1,986 

323 

4,081 

5,  410 

568 

1,987 

329 

4, 201 

5.412 

668 

2,043 

334 

4,200 

5. 3,89 

695 

2,088 

327 

4, 172 

5,431 

686 

2, 059 

329 

4,171 

5,421 

661 

2, 115 

337 

4,181 

5,474 

685 

1,615 

332 

4, 162 

5,6a8 

719 

519 

80 

475 

852 

6b 

520 

83 

543 

880 

67 

505 

79 

566 

874 

67 

462 

81 

577 

863 

65 

503 

85 

569 

868 

63 

503 

87 

584 

847 

63 

506 

89 

609 

848 

6S 

505 

88 

615 

841 

61 

510 

87 

615 

8.50 

59 

512 

87 

603 

797 

66 

515 

91 

607 

807 

49 

492 

93 

,599 

869 

58 

■  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establifihments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed, 
are  distributed  us  fnliuws:  Alabama,  1;  Colorado,  1:  Connecticut,  2:  Indiana.  1:  South  Carolina,  1;  Wisconsin.  1. 


These  establiflhments 


158 


IVFANUFACTURES. 

Table  33.— CARPETS  AND  RUGS,  OTHER  THAN  RAG:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


United  States. 

Massachu- 
setts. 

New 
Jersey. 

New 
York. 

Pennsyl- 
vania. 

All  other 
states. ' 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number; 
Spinners— 

486 

1,150 

185 

5,836 

4,443 

34 

516 

1,018 

80 

468 

134 

46 

88 

209, 206 

63, 836 

97,191 

6,096 

3,197 

36,658 

2,228 

1,757 

797 
17 

602 
295 

46 
10, 7.54 

92 
4.354 

1 
246 

80 

1,094 

737 

544 

507 

611 

150 

22 

3 

955 
1,3.58 

$2,7.51.879 
$162, 657 
$178, 469 

$2,096,532 
$314,221 

$27,228,719 

51,761,523 

$8, 077, 420 

109,811 

$26, 687 

37,560,231 

457, 476 

$71,2.56 

26, 000 

$7,250 

5,  707,  281 

$471,104 

3,813 

1,943,942 

$129, 449 

744,233 

843,555 

2,238,946 

$301,944 

84,908 

83,627 

1,200 

$162 

200.000 

8%,  000 

32,996,316 

$5, 030, 654 

9,218,267 

$3, 514, 860 

237,970 

838.  994 

34 
302 

1 

117 

216 

21 

625 
1,307 

316 
.541 
162 

4.167 

2,024 

26 

247 

405 

64 

92 

17 

5- 

12 

42,926 

21,416 
13,267 

IS 

91 

2 

Weavers — 

430 
701 

393 
137 

7 

6 
35 

221 

274 

1 

Finishers— 

92 
161 

136 

375 

6 

275 

50 

11 

39 

89,982 

26,724 

41, 620 

4,224 

1,944 

13, 874 

1,.596 

998 

50 
17 

602 
295 

34 
2,238 

28 
287 

35 

42 

10 

Machinery: 

66 

47 

29 

18 

50,344 

10,164 

27,3.52 

1,872 

680 

9,688 

588 

10 

3 

1 

2 

3,344 

752 

1,728 

25 

17 

17 

22,610 

Spinning— 

4,780 

13.224 

Doubling — 

573 

7,626 

44 

733 

721 

864 

4,606 

26 
26 

Broad,  50  inches  or  over,  reed  space — 



Narrow,  under  50  inches,  reed  space— 

Hand— 

12 
5,843 

62 
3,467 

1 
207 

80 
271 
266 

87 
168 

12 

1,223 

911 

539 

Ingrain — 

2 

2.53 

31 

316 

Broad  ingrain— 
Hand 

11 

28 

Venetian- 
Power  

Tapestry  brnssels— 

191 
26 
333 
276 
143 

7 
13 

625 

432 

24 

10 

368 

150 

18 

Tapestry  velvet- 

Body  brussels:- 

100 

Wilton— 

46 
19 

7 

Axminster- 

79 

Moquette— 

Wilton  rug — 

1 

3 

Tapestry  rng— 

447 
347 

$45, 610 

8970 

$4,766 

$39,874 

2 

385 

835 

$1,671,015 
$107,624 
$35, 1.51 

$1, 248, 594 
$279,616 

813,773,788 

11,458,910 

81,686,477 

109,811 

$26, 687 

8,189,811 

457. 476 

$71,256 

25,000 

$7,250 

3, 825, 421 

8311,325 

Smyrna  rug— 

123 
172 

$541,841 
$53,200 
$47,608 

$425,654 
$15, 379 

$7,681,097 

23, 297, 198 
$3,875,638 

4 

$427,241 

$683 

877,957 

8329,705 
$18,896 

$3,989,945 

13,746,907 
$2,063,995 

$66. 172 

8180 

$12,987 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not 

$52,705 

$.300 

Materials  used: 

$867,959 

663,4.52 
$99, 497 

$915,9.30 

Wool— 

2,595,056 

Co*=t                                                                 

$3.51,813 

10,096,801 

420,000 

17,224,476 

1,629,143 

Animal  hair  and  fur— 

91,185 
$11,912 

1,32.5,814 

$99, 978 

2,  .571 

1,302,482 
892,621 

6,6.53 

8410 

1,039,  .591 

$151, 173 

84.908 

83,627 

464,861 

$47,889 

1,242 
641,460 
$36,828 

Materials  not  made  in  mill — 

737.580 
843,145 

403,698 
$65,000 

795,057 
$85,741 

600 

CO'it                                                                                                       

$30 

1,200 

8162 

200,000 

$96,000 

28,029,987 

$4, 218, 605 

6,.504,.5,'<3 

$2,481,729 

229,700 

$37,837 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill — 

2.036,980 

8343, 618 

37,047 

$15,501 

1,594,801 

$266,998 

281,830 

$113,538 

1,3.34.  .548 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

8201.433 

2,142,847 
$835,863 

251.960 
$98,229 

8.270 

Cost 

81, 157 

1  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  ot  individual  establishments  ma.v  not  be  disclosed.     These  establishments 
!  distributed  as  follows:  .Alabama,  1;  Colorado.  1;  Connecticut,  2;  Indiana,  1;  South  Carolina.  1;  Wisconsin.  1. 


WOOL 

Table  33.-CARPETS  AND  RUGS,  OTHER  THAN  RAG:  BY  STATES,  1900-Continued. 


159 


United  States. 


Materials  used— Continued. 

Total  cost— Continued.  „     ,.       j 

Yarns  not  mnde  in  mill— Continued. 

Cotton,  pounds 

Silk,  pounds 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Cost ■■•••, ,- 

Jute,  ramie,  or  other  vegetable  fiber,  pounds 

Shoddy,  made  iiV  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

All  other  rniiteriais  which  are  components  of  the  product. 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost -, V, 

Oil,  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Chemicals  and  dyestufls 

Rent  of  power  and  heat , 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight ■ • 

Cotton  yarn  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  poiiiuls 


19,823,Sf.l 

$2, 74-J,  028 

9,l»l 

$43,455 

178, 780 

S2,'i0, 233 

8,388,211 

81,104,826 

38,846,413 

$2, 47G, U29 

12.5, 000 

S6, 12.5 

$199,  MS 

2, 696, 173 

S90, 271 

466, 731 

$103,671 

$1,151,726 

$469, 913 

$22,  8.81 

$i;w,  181 

$366,  761 

8157, 139 

1,712,421 

^■^''"^';^^™l^^^^^^^ ..^., ,-, I        »«.192,351 


Total  .1..,^^ ----, ,  ,.   , 

All-wool  woven  goods,  whether  woolen  or  worsted- 
Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value - ;.'  *,v  "  V V 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps  with  weft  partly  or  wholly  of  wool, 
worsted,  or  hair- 
Carriage  robes,  square  yards 

Value 


Upholsterv  goods  and  sundries— 

Woolen  and  worsted  upholstery  goods  square  yards  . 


Massachu- 
setts. 


28,364 
$17,  367 


667 
SI,, 500 


94, 341 
$44,340 
$405, 244 


36,698,292 
$13, 222, 657 

3, 222,  5.57 
$1,146,273 

2, 328,  S06 
81,007,627 
11,649,932 
$5, 620, 665 

3,581,991 
$2, 979, 867 

6,  706,  7.54 
$3, 743. 3,53 

4, 782,  .835 
84,030,842 

5, 074, 961 
$3, 637. 001 

1, 627, 410 
$1,12.5,268 


18,  7,50 

$9,000 

339, 784 

$545, 967 

327,  598 

$W2, 262 

393, 417 

$168,  324 

3, 6.51, 661 

$3,680,618 

6,111,173 

$2,  391, 434 

$15, 393 

1,073,214 

$252, 857 

2,776,929 

$1, 090, 036 

10. 000 

$4,887 

674, 188 

$120, 131 

330,3.51 

$21, 133 

$2,  64S,  205 

$20, 100 

114 
$16,  .S&5,  929 
$40,191,460 


127 
26,932 


155 

23,091 

1 

36 

22 

3,146 

5 

192 

469 

484 


2, 163, 677 
$250, 003 


1, 176, 131 
$1,59, 702 

2,931,326 
$186,779 


197,290 

$4,712 

01,844 

$19,413 

$126, 315 

$97, 556 

$600 

$28,  750 

$101,799 

$12, 630 

586, 374 

$6,966,237 


New 
Jersey. 


432,983 
$67,918 


92, 346 
$13, 929 

3,091,776 

$203,  673 

12.5, 000 

$6. 125 


New 
York. 


3, 617, 216 
$443,351 


5,382,2.55 

$732,307 

16,411,276 

$944,901 


208, 814 
$7,221 
4,669 
81, 812 
$37,  &56 
818, 902 

"$3,".565 

$33, 038 

J3,392 


Value 

Other  upholstery  goods 

Carpets  and  rugs- 
Carpets — 

Ingrain,  2-ply,  square  yards 

Value 

Ingrain,  3-ply,  square  yards 

Val  ue 

Ingrain  art  carpets,  square  yards 

Value .-  -  -  - .■  ■ 

Tapestry  Brussels,  running  yards  of  27  inches  wide 

Valiie. . : ,- .■  • 

Body  Brussels,  running  yards  of  27  inches  wide 

Value - .-  ■ 

Tapestry,  velvet,  running  yards  of  27  inches  wide 

Value V,-  ■  ■  v™-'  ■  c -J "  ■  ■ 

Wilton  and  Wilton  velvet,  running  yards  of  27  inches  wide. . 

Axminster,  running  yards  of  27  inches  wide 

Value : 

Moquette,  running  yards  of  27  inches  wide 

Value 

Rugs- 
Tapestry,  square  yards 

Value 

Wilton,  square  yards 

Moquette  anij  Axminster,  square  yards 

Ingrain,  square  yards 

Value 

Smyrna  carpets  and  rugs,  square  yards 

"Value 

Other  rugs,  square  yards ■ 

Value 

Felt  goods- 
All  other  felts 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale- 
Woolen  yarn,  all  wool,  pounds 

Value 

Worsted  yarn  and  tops,  pounds 

Value ••  •  - -  - 

Woolen  or  worsted  yarn,  union  or  merino,  cotton  mixed,  pounds 

Value 

Noils,  pounds 

Value 

Waste,  pounds 

All  other  products 

Amount  received  for  contract  work 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  for  preceding  business  year -■  ■  - 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines — 

Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

HorsCDOwer 

Water  wheels',  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Rented— 

Other  than  electric,  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

'Includes  states  having  less  than  3  esliiblishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  indiv 
are  distributed  as  follows:  Alabama,  1;  ('olorado.  1;  Connecticut,  2;  Indiana,  1:  South  Caroli 


2, 295, 695 
$976,588 


$1,522,827 


28,364 
$17, 367 


$158, 9.52 
929, 496 
$26,211 
261, 591 
$36,684 

$384,835 

$113. 466 

$240 

$36,995 

8103, 612 

$95, 560 

1,176,047 

$15,029,218 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


13, 215, 750 

81, 939, 017 

9,634 

$43,455 

178, 780 

$250, 233 

1, 699, 108 

$252, 310 

15,  784, 309 

$1,101,507 


All  Other 
states. ' 


97,500 
$15,840 


1, 812, 447 

$1,069,050 

2, 536, 261 

$2, 143, 570 

105, 665 

$78, 296 

891,034 

$1, 259, 781 

685,229 

$512, 355 


164, 401 
$262, 118 

289, 698 
$297,495 


72,000 
$30, 240 


180,000 
$108,000 

306,407 

8268, 932 

12,400 

$14, 700 


52,000 
$65,000 


312, 000 
$93, 740 
635, 722 
$205, 144 


31,000 
$3,100 


$6, 497, 371 
$6, 117, 762 


8 
6,000 


23 
4,6<K) 


2,390,698 

$892, 012 

91, 595 

$56,411 

128,  734 

$81, 102 

6, 898, 863 

$3,080,397 

167, 773 

$113, 216 

2, 448,  .5.55 

$1,676,920 

3,097,432 

$1,978,494 

3, 834, 992 

$2,607,707 

1,027,410 

$1, 126, 268 


$40, 666 

1, 277, 598 

$49, 705 

116, 137 

$39, 096 

8560,542 

$213, 722 

$22, 041 

$53,  .510 

$127, 287 

$24, 4,54 


$23,113,058 


75,814 
$136,007 


1.007,786 
$885,653 


$15,393 


90, 732 
$30, 983 


159, 316 
$26,619 


$109, 100 


10 
$1,493,136 
$1,279,003 

12 
1,056 


14 
751 


504,468 

$7.55,  927 

.5,0.56,577 

$2, 321, 969 


667 
$1,500 

94, 341 
$44,340 
8405, 244 


30, 469, 168 

$10, 754, 090 

2,  .598, 477 

8849,559 

2, 085, 326 

$876,474 

2,866,622 

$1,340,978 

756, 348 

8613, 633 

2,972,634 

$1,880,137 

478, 630 

$509, 637 


44,675 

$10,447 

381,378 

$140, 701 


10 

3 

,18.5 

300 

2 

1 

125 

5 

250,  667 

$44,049 

102,316 

$8,601 


10 
$14,867,002 
$13,385,2.31 

12 
7,846 


23 
6,103 


18, 750 

$9,000 

96, 869 

$138, 842 

37, 900 

844,707 

294,800 

8122,886 

2,139,407 

82,039,038 


9 
1,660 


20 


716, 589 

$148, 670 

1,769,097 

$713,208 

10,000 

$4,887 

261,205 

$49, 463 

150.000 

$7'.  .WO 

$2,  .539, 105 

$20, 100 

83 
$22, 605, 237 
$18,980,902 

89 
10,537 


87 
10,088 


449 

484 


393,935 
844,609 


39, 371 
86, 578 
627,  726 
$39, 169 


82, 975 
82,422 
21,, 500 
86,667 
oS2, 178 
826, 267 

'815,' 36i 
$1,026 
$21, 103 


$1,661,011 


1,445,231 

$584, 127 

632,485 

8240, 303 

114, 846 

$50,051 


121, 609 
$109, 448 


9,332 

$13,998 

642,340 

$502,239 


2,700 
$9,000 


98,617 
845,438 


2,696 
$4,475 


47,036 
$1,932 


$1,523,183 
$1,428,562 


6 

1,494 


8 

1,459 

1 

35 


idual  establishments  may 
I:  Wisconsin,  1. 


not  be  disclosed.     These  establishments 


160 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tarle  33  -CARPETS  AND  RUGS,  OTHER  THAN  RAG:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


United  States. 

Massachu- 
setts. 

New 

Jersey. 

New 

Vork. 

Pfiinsyl- 
vauia. 

.\11  other 
state!*.' 

EvStablishments  classified  by  number  of  persons 
proprietors  and  firm  members: 

employed, 

not  including 

133 
2 
18 
33 
30 
20 
19 
3 
8 

8 

13 

12 

93 
2 
12 
28 
21 
1.5 
11 
o 

2 

7 

5  to  '*0                                      

3 
4 
3 

1 
2 

1 

2 

1 

1 
1 
2 
1 
2 

51  to  100                              

3 
I 
4 

2 

2 

■>ol  to  500                                             

501  to  1  (XX) 

Over  1  000                     

3  1 

1 

'  Includes  slates  having  less  than  3  establishments  In  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed, 
are  distributed  as  follows:  Alabama,  1:  Colorado.  1:  Connecticut,  2;  Indiana.  1:  South  Carolina,  1:  Wisconsin,  1. 


These  establishments 


T.\BLE  34.— FELT  GOODS:  BY  STATES,  1900. 


United  States. 


AH  other 
slates.i 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  aud  limited  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  uffieiais,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations- 
Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number  

Salai-les 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 

Wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

A verage  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  dur- 
ing each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

January  

February 

March  .  * '. '. 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August '. 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January ". 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

A  Ugust 

September 

October 

November 

December 


7 
22 

87,125,276 
$506, 601 
$1, 115, 961 
$1,746,933 
S3, 756, 781 
13 

136 
S231, 065 


S92, 110 

IDS 
S138. 955 

94 
S133, 278 

14 
$5,677 

3,085 

2,335 

2,688 

$1, 024,  835 

1,957 
$820,637 

6.58 
$191, 090 


$13, 108 


1,929 
1,931 
1,976 
1,912 
1,921 
1,898 
1,901 
2,003 
2,060 
2,011 
1,975 
1,977 

659 
640 
665 
634 
654 
663 
672 
646 
662 
669 
662 
670 

69 
68 
69 
74 
70 
76 
73 
70 
74 
73 
82 
78 


402 
8165,861 


47 
812,512 


15 
$2, 422 


387 
379 
382 


400 
443 
437 
403 
405 
402 

47 
45 
45 
46 
48 
48 
45 
48 
46 
60 
49 


227 

190 

206 

883,514 

180 

$77,798 

26 
$5,716 


173 
174 
178 

181 
180 
186 
187 
192 
179 
180 
175 
174 

21 
25 
26 
26 
29 
29 
29 
28 
28 
26 
26 
26 


847,184 

$6,036 

5 

1 

82,496 

8300 

891 

80 

740 

67 

736 

75 

$297,853 

830,490 

507 

74 

8228,966 

$29,890 

197 

1 

$62,379 

$800 

31 

86,508 
520 

76 

626 

70 

534 

68 

528 

65 

523 

66 

467 

77 

472 

77 

502 

77 

626 

77 

507 

77 

485 

77 

488 

77 

203 

3 

187 

3 

193 

2 

195 

2 

190 

189 

190 

198 

200 

207 

206 

207 

29 

31 

31 

32 

31 

32 

32 

31 

31 

31 

33 

32 

82,611,084 
8167,551 
8333,697- 
8663,451 

81,446,383 
1 

62 
890,552 

14 
$37,760 

48 
852,792 

43 
Sol. 162 


Sl,.630 

1,361 

992 

1,208 

$432,183 

794 
$318,122 

387 
8109,883 

27 
81,178 


773 
782 
814 
740 
754 
773 
76.5 
789 
831 
BH 
833 


386 
380 
899 
365 
387 


372 

388 
386 
382 


26 
2i 
25 
27 
23 
29 
27 
24 
28 


'  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed. 
are  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,  2;  Illinois.  1;  Indiana.  1:  Michigan,  1;  Ohio,  2;  Rhode  Island,  1;  Wisconsin,  1;  Maine,  2. 


30 

These  establishments 


WOOL. 

Table  34.— FELT  GOODS:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


161 


Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Spinners — 

Men,  16  yeans  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Weavers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women, 16  years  and  over 

Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards 

Spindles,  number 

Spinning — 

Woolen 

Doubling- 
Woolen  

Loopis  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number 

Broad,  50  inches  or  over  reed  space — 

On  woolen  goods 

Narrow,  under  bO  inches  reed  space — 

On  woolen  goods 

On  worsted  goods 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  in.sUranee,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hith- 
erto included 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc.,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hair,  and  fur — 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  pounds 

Cost 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials  not  made  in  mill — 

Shoddy,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

(;ost 

Tops,  pounds 

Cost 

Yams  not  made  in  mill — 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Merino,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton ,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Cost , 

Shoddy,  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  product 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil,  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuffs 


Fuel . 


Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products: 

Total  value 

All-wool  woven  goods,  whether  woolen  or  worsted — 

Wool  cloths,  etc.,  square  yards 

Value 

Woolen  overcoating,  etc.,  square  yards 

Value 

Wool  dress  goods,  etc.,  and  opera  and  similar  flannels,  square 

yards 

Va  lue 

Flannels  for  underwear,  square  yards '. 

Vjilue 

Blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Horse  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warp,  etc. — 

Cotton  warp  blankets,  square  yards 

Value 

Felt  goods — 

Felt  cloths,  square  yards 

Value 

Endless  belts,  square  yards 

Value 

Boot  and  shoe  lining,  square  yards 

Value ; 

Hair  felting,  square  yards 

Value 

Trimming  and  lining  felts,  felt  skirts,  etc.,  square  yards 

Value ■ 


United  States. 


11.5 

lis 

1-19 
95 
3 

802 
24,286 

23, 235 

1,051 
2.S4 

271 

12 
1 

$3.56,164 
$16, 140 
$28,  391 

$311,  633 

$3,801,028 

4, 248, 880 
$782, 224 
5,357,383 
$1, 414,  210 
6,468,097 

98,000 

$33,300 

2,721,521 

$92,  .503 

2,437 

1,  225, 8.50 

$77,  683 

712,373 

$80,  .737 

2, 653,  .590 

$.552, 992 

99,  458 

$61,428 

48,  .530 

$28, 877 

31,866 

$6,373 

51, 707 

$9, 657 

14 

$61 

17,905 

$5,  .538 

1,248,835 

$.50, 098 

$97, 212 

968, 495 

$51,  760 

77,  5.53 

$20, 232 

$128,  296 

$110, 355 

81,976 

839, 416 

$91,629 

$64, 435 

$6, 461, 691 

252, 840 

$214, 914 

3, 72S 

$3,727 

3,480 
$2,057 
20,836 

$7, 527 
11, 104 
$8, 339 
3,500 
83,010 

.52, 428 
$72, 661 

2, 056, 002 

$.548,  ,543 

1, 114,  357 

$1,0&»,835 

1, 062, 638- 

$540,110 

125,000 

$66,  950 

2,469,830 

$7%,  718 


Massachu- 
setts. 


$67, 612 
$6,080 
$7, 169 

$54,363 

$953, 203 

734, 713 

$143, 995 

680, 164 

$253, 092 

1,088,649 


185, 707 
$11,446 
1,628 
814, 157 
$50,628 

536, 242 
$56,191 
929, 043 
$220,900 
74, 979 
&48,736 


31,866 
$6,373 


$55, 476 
195, 477 

$8,955 
9, 982 

$2, 107 
$47, 870 
$21,986 


New  Jersey. 


$9,647 
$8,855 
$6,947 

$1, 526, 830 


569,500 
$142, 385 


989, 717 
$500,938 


9.S3, 155 
$288, 681 


30 

1,440 


3,140 


300 
5 


$17, 523 
$1,070 
$4,909 

$11,544 

$377,  312 

133, 057 
$73, 218 
182, 140 
$56,288 
315, 197 


418 
208,800 
$14, 638 

93,890 

$10,327 

404, 430 

$156, 799 


$200 
188,600 
$9, 253 
4.517 
$1,060 
$29,083 
$12, 4&S 
$601 
$1,270 
$.5,920 
$6, 167 

$691,203 


1,500 
S700 


138,224 
$65,890 


546, 619 
$146, 869 


New  York. 


59 


120 

6,629 

6,303 

326 
93 


3 

1 

$114. 900 
$2,  .500 
$7,  492 

$104, 908 

$987,380 

654,623 
$172,238 

2,08.5,101 
$534, 189 

1,835,883 

20,000 
$6,000 
25,920 
$1, 109 
329 
174,  781 
89,344 

64,756 
$11,  363 
.5M,205 
$100, 399 

24,479 
$12, 692 


14,955 
$2, 819 


14, 412 
$3,603 


41, 301 
$10,  792 

22,838 

$7, 027 
$29,  .557 
$30,804 

$1,375 
$11,  r,87 
$25, 039 
$17,343 

$1,734,136 


3,500 
S3, 010 


626, 857 

$617,881 

62, 821 

$39, 172 


941,056 
8361, 168 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


208 
■■■5 


$11,678 

$1,200 

$110 

810, 068 

888,715 

155, 409 

$22, 397 

11,330 

$2, 266 

62,644 


1, 720, 357 
$41, 730 


$4,071 
165,042 
$4,687 


$1,261 
$4,499 


$2,250 

$5,418 

$146 

$160, 633 


259, 200 
$103, 083 


125,000 
$56,950 


All  other 
states.' 


52 


60 

85 


74 
14,009 

13,684 

425 
181 

174 

7 


$144, 461 
$5,290 
$8,411 

$130, 750 

$1,394,418 

2,671.078 
$370, 376 

2, 398, 648 
$568,381 

3, 165,  724 

78,000 

$27,300 

789, 537 

$38, 219 

62 

28,112 

$3,073 

17,485 
$2,866 
765,  912 
$74,894 


48,530 
$28,877 


36, 752 

$6,838 

14 

$61 

3,493 

$1,936 

1,248,835 

$50,098 

$37,465 

378, 075 

818,073 

40, 216 

$10, 038 

$20,535 

$40, 578 


$14,592 
$46,397 
$33,832 

$2, 348, 889 

252,840 

$214,914 

3,728 

$3,727 

3,480 
$2,0.57 
20,836 
$7,  527 

9,604 
$7, 639 


52,428 
$72,661 

1,089,078 

$236,688 

487,600 

$466, 954 


1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follow: 
MON TEXT 11 


Connecticut,  2;  Dlinois,  1;  Indiana,  1;  Michigan,   1:  Ohio,  2;  Rhode  Island,  1;  Wisconsin,  1;  Maine,  2. 


1(12 


MANUFACTURES. 

Tablk  .*J4.— FF.LT  liCiODS:  KY  STATES,  1900— ContiniH-d. 


Products— Continued. 

Total  vitlue— Continued. 
Felt  goods — Continued. 

A\\  other  felts 

Partly  numufaotured  products  for  sale — 

Woolen  yarn,  all  wool,  pounds 

Value 

Waste,  pounds 

Value 

Flocks,  pounds 

Value 

Value  of  all  other  products- 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  for  preoediiig  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines- 
Steam .  number 

Horsepower 

Water  \\heels.  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Htirsepower 

Rented— 

Electric,  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  ola.ssified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including 
proprietors  and  tirm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

Under  5 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

51  to  100 

101  to  2.50 

251  to  50O 


United  States. 


J2, 261, 918 

39,000 

818,400 

18. 2(i0 

87, 3C8 

2, 169 

S197 

8834,417 

25 
83, 867, 905 
S3, 416, 320 

36 
7,973 


52 

5,129 

29 

2,657 

6 

132 

55 
14 


Massachu- 
setts. 


8392,882 


8201, 944 

4 
8602, 476 
8512, 768 


1,755 


9 

810 

10 

920 

1 

25 


New  Jersey,  i  Sew  York. 


8471.  744 


'0,000 
86,000 


855,874 
839,805 


4 
622 


5 

557 

2 

65 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


S«39, 13« 


873, 769 


81,271,640 
81, 179, 764 

11 
2,834 


22 

1,857 

6 

862 

1 

60 


8153,683 
8145,082 


400 


5 

350 

3 

50 


.\11  other 
states.' 


8758,156 

39,000 

818, 400 

8,260 

81,368 

2, 169 

8197 

8558, 704 

9 
$1,784,232 
$1,538,901 

11 
2,362 


11 

,555 

8 

760 

4 

47 


1  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed.  These  establishments  are 
distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,  2;  Illinois.  1;  Indiana,  1;  Michigan,  1:  Ohio,  2;  Rhode  Island.  1;  Wisconsin,  1;  Maine,  2. 

'This  item  includes  felt  boots  and  shoes,  $298,944;  felt  rugs,  8:),090:  felt  mangle  cloths,  etc.,  840,722;  felt  cord  cloths  and  machine  blankets,  8114,930;  wool 
lKX)ts,  8370,000;  wool  yarn  spun  for  lining  department.  86,731. 

T.'iBLE  35.— WOOL  HATS,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Total  number  of  establishments. . . 
Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnersliip. 

Incorporated  company 

Capital: 

Total  . 


Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number .' 

Total  .salaries 

Men — 

Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year . 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

.\verage  number 


Wages . 


Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

.\verage  number ". 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during  each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

January 

February 

March 

April 


May  . 

June 

July 

August 

September. 

October 

November. 
December  . 


1  Two  establishments  in  New  Jersey  included  in  Pennsylvania  to  avoid  disclosing 


L'nited  States. 

Massach'Jteetts. 

New  York. 

'  Pennsylvania. 

24 

4 

5 

16 

4 

1 

1 

2 

15 

2 
2 

8896,852 

13 

5 

3 

$402,082 

82,0.50,802 

8751,868 

$108,000 

$17,000 

$46,500 

844.500 

$200,582 

$40,000 

8100, 082 

860,500 

8244,620 

$38,500 

8130,  Og.') 

876,025 

81,497,600 

$306,582 

8620, 175 

8670,843 

37 

3 
23 

34 

57 

17 

17 

866,  766 

815,459 

$42,462 

$8,845 

7 
815, 505 

5 
85,505 

2 

810,000 

50 

12 

21 

17 

$51,261 

89,954 

832,462 

88,845 

44 

9 

21 

14 

$49,741 

89,334 

832,462 

87,945 

6 
81,520 

3 
8020 

3 

8900 

2,912 

662 

1,354 

896 

1,509 

529 

474 

506 

2,108 

541 

930 

637 

$937,855 

8278,129 

8403.213 

8256,513 

1,3,W 

382 

609 

367 

8727,2.53 

8228,586 

$319,729 

8178. 938 

651 

144 

310 

197 

8195, 995 

847,006 

881,558 

867, 432 

99 

15 

11 

.73 

814,607 

$2, 538 

81,926 

810  143 

1,900 

398 

367 

344 

1,200 

396 

451 

353 

1,253 

396 

606 

352 

1,333 

425 

651 

367 

1,309 

362 

5S9 

35S 

1,888 

374 

677 

337 

1,445 

289 

793 

363 

1,508 

282 

824 

402 

1,635 

386 

838 

416 

1,546 

414 

730 

402 

1,305 

430 

514 

361 

1,265 

436 

467 

362 

ngthe  operatioi 

IS  of  the.se  estab 

ishments. 

WOOL. 

Tabi.b  35.— wool  HAIS,  UY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


163 


Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  jiieeeworkers,  employed  during  each  month— Con. 
Women,  16  years  and  over — 

.lannary 

February  

.March 

April 

May 

Juno 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December • 

Children,  under  16  years- 
January  

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October  

Novem  her 

December 

>killcd  operatives,  average  number: 
Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards , 

Formers  for  fur  hats 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 
Total . 


United  States. 


Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto  included 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition,  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition, purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc.,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hair  and  fur — 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Materials  not  made  in  mill — 

Shoddy,  poinids 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool  hat  bodies  and  hats  in  the  rough,  dozen 

Cost 

Fur  hat  bodies  and  hats  in  the  rough,  dozen 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  prodiu-ts 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dvestuffs 

Fuel ." 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products; 

Total  value 

Hats- 
Wool  ,  dozen 

Value 

Fur,  dozen 

Value 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale — 

Wool  hat  bodies  and  hats  in  the  rough,  dozen 

Value 

All  other  products 

Amount  received  for  contract  work 

Comparison  vf  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

A'alue  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines — 

Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels,  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Establishmentsclassilied  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  proprietors  or  firm  members: 

Total  number  <>i  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  5  . ! 

6  to  20 

21to50 

51  to  100 

101  to  2.50 

281  to  1500 


476 
498 
528 
563 
574 
627 
786 
861 


667 
669 

84 

82 

89 

94 

99 

96 

107 

127 

124 

117 

87 

82 


217 
100 

140 
4 

glS.'i,  (M4 

514,890 

8.S,  074 

$162, 680 

$2, 042, 202 

639,211 
8218, 651 

2,074,163 
8670, 322 

1,898,605 

121,482 
$87, 196 

3,135 

$616 

862, 982 

8370,792 

4,939 

$13,920 

8,600 

821,982 

$474, 100 

227, 833 

$9, 93U 

1,730 

$.567 

$108, 502 

$49,670 

$9,741 

863, 193 

$43, 020 

$3,591,940 

811,425 

$3,161,361 

43,  994 

$285, 705 

56, 006 

$120,202 

8441 

$24, 171 

18 
83,234,380 
$2,791,933 

21 
2, 329 


26 

1,919 

9 

405 

1 

5 

24 
1 
3 
1 
I'l 
3 
5 
5 


Massachusetts. 


147 
145 
147 
149 
136 
141 
124 
124 
158 
160 
150 
147 

17 
17 
17 
17 
13 
13 
13 
13 
13 
14 
16 
17 


.30 
2 

897, 319 
$1,200 
82, 784 

$93,  335 

8587,  902 

60,000 

825. 000 

920,  738 

8242,612 

771,084 

fd,482 
$42, 196 


84,467 
847,867 


$133, 966 

15,000 

$5.50 

70 

8140 

849, 290 

$16,819 

82,000 

$18,233 

810,229 

81, 103, 003 

247, 163 

8939, 298 

20,494 

8153,  705 

3, 500 
810. 000 


81,026,841 
$884,  792 


4 
475 


4 

476 


New  York. 


165 
185 
213 
243 
260 
327 
439 
480 
481 
454 
226 
246 

5 

3 

9 

10 

10 

14 

14 

23 

23 

18 

5 

3 


116 
100 


$68,296 
$8, 462 
$2.  974 

866,860 

8789, 348 

390, 149 
892,  463 
668, 344 
8124, 655 
443, 378 


1,635 

8301 

.515. 156 

8222, 682 

2, 676 

89, 618 

8,500 

821,982 

8201,316 

102, 7.55 

$4,341 

1,055 

$255 

$32,784 

$19, 022 

$4, 175 

$40,  .565 

$15, 189 

$1,376,721 

2*4,494 

81,218,498 

8,500 

$47,000 

52,  .506 

$110, 262 

$441 

$520 


$1,376,721 
$1,101,932 


4 

i,a55 


7 
780 

3 
275 


Pennsylvania.' 


164 
168 
168 

171 
178 
159 
223 
257 
256 
251 
191 
177 

64 
62 
63 
67 
76 
69 
80 
91 
88 
85 
66 
62 


60 
2 

$20,029 
$5,228 
82,  316 

812, 485 

8664, 962 

199, 062 
8101,188 

485,0.S1 
8203, 055 

684, 143 

60,000 
$4.5,000 

1,500 
8315 

263, 359 

8100, 243 

2,263 

$4,302 


$138, 818 

110,078 

$5,039 

605 

$172 

$26,428 

$14,829 

83,566 

84,395 

817,  602 

$1,112,216 

279, 768 
$1,003,565 
16,000  - 
$85,000 


823,651 

10 

$830, 818 
$£05,509 

13 

799 


15 
664 
6 
130 
1 
5 

15 
1 
2 
1 
6 
2 
2 
1 


'Two  establishments  in  New  Jersey  included  in  Pennsylvania  to  avoid  disclosing  the  operations  of  these  establishments. 


164 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tabee  36.— carding  MILLS 


United  States. 

Alabama. 

Arkansas. 

Georgia. 

Kentucky. 

Maine. 

1 

? 

Number  of  establishments  . .  ^ 

Character  of  organization: 

231 

178 
51 
2 

J458,286 
859,433 
$98,805 

$222,148 

$77,900 

171 

5 
$2,390 

5 
$2,390 

5 
$2,390 

300 

249 

140 

$33,106 

102 
$26, 168 

23 
$.5,289 

15 
$1,649 

51 
49 
53 
74 
127 
136 
148 
157 
155 
130 
89 
64 

12 
13 
15 
28 
31 
32 
25 
28 
28 
27 
21 
21 

5 
5 
6 
11 
18 
25 
25 
25 
24 
17 
10 
10 

5 
2 

1 
1 

1 
1 
2 

259 

7 
7 

9 

3 
5 

1 

$8,175 
S875 
3750 

$5,700 

$8.50 

14 

11 

6 
5 

9 

8 

1 

23 

15 
8 

20 

17 
2 

1 

$56,483 
$2,  .555 
$11,160 
$24, 100 
$18, 668 
11 

1 
$1,000 

1 

$1,000 

1 

81,000 

40 

27 

13 

84,478 

8 
83,363 

4 
$915 

1 
8200 

1 

1 

5 

7 

11 

16 

11 

15 

11 

13 

6 

4 

<t 

.1 

5 

Capital: 
Totjil 

$15,02.5 

81,555 

$3, 800 

$8,800 

$870 

14 

1 
$90 

1 
$90 

1 
$90 

12 
12 

6 
$930 

4 
$710 

1 
$80 

1 
$140 

2 

$7,111 

$1,065 
$895 

$6,0.50 
$101 

1 

$17,067 

$1,805 

$-1,01.5 

$10, 800 

$447 

12 

1 

$300 

1 
$300 

1 
$300 

39 
30 

14 
$2,106 

12 
$1,840 

1 
$150 

1 
$116 

6 
6 

i 

14 
15 
21 
25 
21 
10 
7 
5 

K 

Land        . .                

7 

R 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements.                

t 

10 

Proprietors  and  tirm  members     .                       .                    .             

n 

Salaried  olficials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number .                                 

1? 

Tt 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc.— 

14 

Totttl  salaries                                          .        .                  

IS 

Men — 

Number 

1R 

17 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

10 

7 

5 

$843 

4 
$823 

12 

11 

6 

$835 

6 

$835 

IS 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

19 

■"n 

?i 

Men,  16  years  and  oyer — 

Average  number 

?? 

?t 

Women,  16  years  and  over- 

V"! 

Wages                          , ,                     .                .                

?■! 

Children,  under  16  years — 

1 
$20 

1 

1 
1 
2 
1 
1 
3 
6 
7 
7 
6 
6 

?fi 

?7 

month: 

4 
4 
5 
6 
5 
5 
5 
7 
9 
10 
6 
6 

?R 

February 

W 

2 
2 
2 
3 
6 
6 
8 
10 
7 
3 

?n 

April 

31 

1? 

June 

8!< 

July 

t4 

August 

3ft 

3fi 

37 

S8 

SI 

Women,  16  years  and  over— 

Januarj' 

40 

41 

March 

3 

4'' 

April    . 

5 
5 
6 
5 
6 
5 
4 
4 
6 

1 
1 
1 

43 

May 

2 
S 

1 
2 
2 
2 
2 

44 

45 

July 

4n 

August 

47 

September ,.  .. 

48 

4<) 

November ...        .        .... 

ftn 

51 

Children  under  16  years — 

ft? 

February 

53 

54 

April .... 

1 
1 
3 
4 
3 
3 

5ft 

May 

5A 

June 

2 

57 

July : 

1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

5A 

August 

2 
2 

1 
2 

59 

fin 

October 

fil 

fi? 

December 

63 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Spinners- 
Men 

fi4 

Women 

fift 

Weavers — 

Men 

fifi 

fi7 

Men .' 

6S 

fi9 

Children .... 

(0 

Maehinerv: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards 

7 

11 

9 

24 

26 

n 

n 

Of  ,\merican  manufacture 

73 

Of  foreign  manufacture 

74 

Spindles,  number 

12,02.5 

10,889 

1,136 
92 

31 

60 

1 

240 
240 

1,797 

1,467 

330 
17 

6 

11 

75 

.Spinning — 

76 

Doubling- 
Woolen 

t 

77 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number .... 

78 

Broad,  60  inches  or  over,  reed  space- 
On  woolen  goods 

79 

Narrow,  under  50  inches,  reed  space- 

80 

Hand— 

WOOL. 


165 


BY  STATES:  1900. 


Minnesota. 


Missouri. 


New  York. 


North  Caro- 
lina. 


Ohio. 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


Tennessee. 


Vermont. 


Virginia. 


West  Vir- 
ginia. 


Wisconsin. 


All  other 

states.' 


2 
3 
4 

h 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 

11    - 
12 

13 

14 

15 
16 

17 
18 
19 
20 

21 
22 

23 
24 

25 
26 


27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 


813, 650 

$2,900 

fr4,70O 

$.5,600 

S550 

4 


833,455 
$3,135 
87,050 

819, 575 

83,695 

5 


822, 016 
82,659 
84,172 
89, 995 
85, 190 
18 


$7,943 

8865 

$1,603 

$5, 650 

825 

4 


811,700 
82,000 
83,100 
$5,800 


$96,556 
$16, 667 
821,310 
$43,204 
815, 375 
32 


3 

2 

2 

8600 


39 

24 

13 

82,689 

11 
82,339 

1 
8255 

1 
895 


4 

4 

2 

$450 

1  I 
8350 

1 
8100 


9 

9 

2 

8242 


$242 


3 
8649 


2 
$418 


1 
$231 


20 

18 

11 

$3,208 

7 
$2,580 

2 
$380 

2 
$248 


18 


10 


$65, 919 

88,930 

88, 665 

$26,  705 

821,619 

15 

2 
81,000 

■I 
$1,000 

2 
$1,000 

.53 

50 

34 

86,861 

24 
85,251 

5 
$1,105 


$505 


$12, 990 

$2,825 

$6,225 

83, 550 

8390 

10 


18 
18 
16 
20 
32 
32 
31 
29 
29 
29 
21 
16 

4 
4 
6 
7 
7 
7 
5 
5 
6 
6 
4 
4 

4 
4 
4 
6 
6 
6 
7 
7 
7 
6 
4 
4 


$10, 740 

$750 

$1, 875 

86,9.50 

$1,165 

1 


$8,337 

8987 

$2, 320 

$4,625 

$405 


$53, 194 

$6,5&5 

$12,415 

$27,844 

$6,3.50 

11 


7 

2 

$617 

1 
$162 


10 

.  9 

3 

$725 


$675 


$17,925 
$3,275 
84,850 

.  88,400 

$1,400 

9 


1 
8155 


1 
$60 


27 

26 

21 

$7,318 

13 
$6,125 

7 
$2,073 

1 
$120 


10 
10 
10 
12 
15 
14 
16 
15 
16 
15 
12 
12 

7 
7 
7 
8 
9 
7 
7 
6 
7 
7 
7 
7 


$655 

3 

$555 


40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 

51 
52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 


63 
64 


65 


67 
68 
69 

70 
71 
72 
73 
74 

75 


484 
484 


534 
417 
117 


809 
715 


200 
200 


544 
494 


4,025 
3,792 

233 

44 


678 
580 


4.50 
450 


570 


1,186 


1,040 


146 

7 


508 


4 

77 

1 

78 

3 

79 

.. 

80 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Conmectiout,  1;  Illinois, 
1;  Texas,  1. 


is,  l;'indmna,"l;' Iowari;'M"issisdppi.  1:  New  Hampshire,  2;  Oregon,  2;  South  Carolina, 


166 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  36.— CAKDING  MILLS 


United  States. 

Alabama. 

Arkansas. 

Georgia. 

Kentucky. 

Maine. 

81 

Machinery— Continued. 

3 

1 
2 

810,480 
83,362 
8'2.540 

$4,578 

8395, 116 

1,540,025 
8375,469 
1, 189, 727 

1,554 
8348 

5.200 
8544 

925 

8J00 

4,190 

8676 

50 

89 

100 

812 

850 

22,  716 

SS73 

7, -274 

81,936 

81,  966 

85,436 

8762 

84,696 

81,610 

8329 

8534, 512 

7,238 
$6,225 

100 
$60 
11,356 
$1,072 
13,500 
$6,535 

350 
8150 

800 
$105 

50 

835 

3,163 

81,. 513 

60 

860 

207 

894 

650 

$420 

900 
8515 

.543 
8380 

•266,789 
$127,138 

857, 296 

8373,404 

$2,391 

811,020 

214 
$4*4,920 
$479,  S.50 

229 
3.346 

73 

1,097 

1 

6 

165 

2,174 

1 

5 

2 

S? 

8^ 

Power 

84 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

$225 
$113 
$65 

$47 

$14,664 

99,041 

$14,011 

48,465 

$258 

$103 

8500 
8206 
$161 

8133 

$34,827 

113,164 
833,857 
110,703 

$1,174 
8260 
$394 

$520 

848,126 

148,884 
84.5,265 
131,075 

85 

86 

$193 

$65 

$16,148 

97,137 

$16,117 

57, 675 

863 

840 

87,761 

51,922 
87,436 
31.650 

87 

Rent  (if  offices,  iiKsurancc,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto 

88 

Materials  used: 

89 

Wool- 
Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds  . 

qo 

91 

Domestic  etc.,  scoured,  pounds 

w. 

Materials  not  made  in  mill — 

<»3 

Cost 

94 

<»5 

Cost 

% 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill- 

97 

Cost  

■W 

80 
$16 

<W 

1 

inn 

Linen,  pounds 

101 

in? 

Jute,  ramie,  or  other  of  vegetable  fiber,  pounds 

inR 

Cost 

in4 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  product 

m5 

Soap,  pounds 

125 

85 

213 

830 

100 
85 
200 

847 

50 
812 

40 
813 

2,044 

$94 

1,0.52 

$446 

8893 

$347 

$50 

8640 

$293 

$82 

$65,156 

4,500 
$3,300 

in6 

Cost 

inv 

Oil,  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons  . 

135 
871 

ins 

Cost 

109 

Chemicals  and  dvestutls  .        

iin 

Fuel " 

$60 

8494 
8100 
8280 
890 
815 

$21,930 

875 

$415 
850 

$371 
818 
845 

842,401 

in 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

112 

8215 

8335 

88 

$-20, 163 

$95 
8130 

lis 

114 

Freight 

115 

Products: 

811,647 

iifi 

All-wool  woven  goods,  whether  woolen  or  worsted — 

Wool  cloths,  doeskins,  cassimeres,  cheviots,  tweeds,  indigo  flannels, 
and  broadcloths,  for  men's  wear,  square  vards 

117 

118 

Woolen  overcoatings,  cloakings,  Iterseys,  etc.,  for  men's  or  women's 

119 

Value  

120 

121 

Value 



122 

3,300 
81,400 

123 

Value 

124 

Union,  or  cotton  mixed,  woven  goods — 

Unions,  tweeds,  cheviots,  cassimeres,  or  other  goods,  for  men's  wear. 

125 

Value 

126 

127 

Value ". ..  . 



128 

Goods  woven  on  cotton  warps,  with  weft  partly  or  wholly  of  wool,  worsted, 
or  hair;  or  cotton  weft  with  warp  of  wool— 
Wool-fillingcassimeres,  doeskins,  jeans,  tweeds,  coatings,suitings,  and 
other  cotton  warp  goods,  for  men's  wear,  not  specified  below,  square 
yards 

.  . 

129 

i.sn 

Satinets  and  linseys,  square  yards  . 

413 
$413 

131 

132 

Wool-filling  dress  goods  and  repellants  square  yards 

133 



134 

Domett  fiannels  and  shirtings,  square  yards 

57' 

$30 

150 

8140 

135 

136 

Cotton-warp  blankets,  square  yards.        ..                



137 

Value 

1,38 

Carpets  and  rugs — 

139 

Value 

140 

141 

142 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale- 

600 

8300 

52,577 

$21,630 

15,600 
$10,860 
110,279 
849,012 

143 

Value 

144 

44,800 
$19,745 

28,700 
$11,347 

100,  366 
$42,266 

145 

146 

-Ml  other  product.s 

147 

Amount  received  for  contract  work 

8368 

9 
$20,163 
$19,022 

8 
150 

3 
24 

8200 

9 
811,647 
$11,414 

9 
140 

2 

65 

148 

Compari.son  of  products: 

11 
821,930 
824,206 

11 
169 

5 
109 

20 
$38,101 
$38,280 

23 
291 

13 
180 

20 
$6.5.1.55 
$65,446 

20 
368 

1 
47  1 

149 

Value  for  census  vear 

1.50 

1.51 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

1.52 

Total  horsepower 

153 

Owiied — 
Engines- 

154 

Horsepower  

1.55 

156 

Horsepower 

1 

1.57 

6 
126 

3 
44 

9 
85 

S 
96 

19 
321 

1.58 

1,59 

Electric  motors,  number 

160 

161 

Other  power,  norsepower 

i 

WOOL. 


167 


BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


Minnesota. 


858 

8425 

813, 666 

48, 169 

812, 849 

38,758 


Missouri. 


New  Yorlj. 


North  Caro- 
lina. 


S510 
8123 
Sl98 

8189 

$35,923 

122,690 
834,681 
113,640 

4 

87 


905 
8120 


$695 


$85 
810 

87 

818, 3.50 


$729 
8324 


819, 967 

73, 259 

818, 368 

53,048 


851 
""831 

$20 

$5,313 

18, 122 
$5,116 
17,122 


Ohio. 


$282 
'"'$57' 

$225 

$4, 293 

21,074 
$4,025 
11,287 


1,275 


8136 

8102 

8523 

845 

8280 

875 

838 

846, 927 


8,726 
85,803 
25,800 
$12, 542 


5 
818, 3.50 
818, 575 

5 
61 


365 

871 


2,684 
$111 

519 
$188 

$70 
$568 
$203 
$236 
$140 

$12 

827,869 


513 
$300 


1,575 
8665 


Penn.syl- 
vania. 


20, 170 
$12,207 

79, 941 
834,  720 


15 
$40,647 
$39,270 

17 
287 


12 
190 


50 
$36 


150 

$64 

300 

$180 


4,800 

83,  .520 

43, 865 

$22, 6.50 

$25 

$530 

14 
$24, 329 
822,400 

16 
149 


895 
$32 


$50 


$105 
$10 


86,824 


$50 
400 
$15 
60 
815 
860 
$55 


873 


$5,984 


1,206 
$422 


15, 475 


9 
$6,824 
$7,365 

9 

100 


12 
100 


5,440 
$3,333 

3, 625 

$1,813 

$416 


3 
85,984 
85,720 


Tennessee. 


$1,369 
$260 


$743 


158,671 
$35, 492 
103,  448 

550 
$91 
200 

$44 

925 

$400 

3,445 

$499 

50 

$9 

100 

$12 

'"ii.'iftV 

$466 

1,565 

$334 

$622 

$570 

815 

$1, 053 

$183 


,266 


1,325 
$1,785 

100 

$60 

7,825 

$2, 636 

9, 6.50 

$4, 885 


350 
$150 

800 
$105 


60 
860 


200 
$100 


900 

$515 

543 


32,784 
820, 118 

57, 757 
$23, 781 

$1,.560 
$142 

23 
$62, 869 
846, 148 

26 
459 


9 
160 


23 

294 

1 


Vermont. 


$2,219 

$1, 776 

$233 

$210 

860,747 

232,410 
8.58, 468 
223,330 

1,000 
$250 

5,000 
$500 


8122 


851 

$71 

$6, 722 

18,390 
$6, 526 
18, 390 


Virginia. 


West  Vir- 
ginia. 


$165 
$70 


$9,935 

1  34, 120 
89, 782 
32, 545 


625 
816 
636 
8135 
$160 
8634 
$18 
$446 
$130 


$25 
$15 
843 

825 
$10 


Wisconsin. 


All  other 
states.1 


$236 
$75 


$105 

815,258 

40, 626 

$1.5,080 

40,  626 


438 

$67 

$4 


$45 
$29 

812, 359 


42,000 

$20,000 

164, 6.53 

$66,476 

8100 

8164 

31 

884,042 
887, 950 

32 
360 


S3 
1 
6 

23 
258 


$1, 740 
$126 
8339 

$1,276 

$49, 318 

184,077 
847, 221 
126, 503 


75 
811 


$85 


$59 

$21 

$2 

$17, 946 


300 

$90 


1,450 
$47 
404 
$98 
$60 
$905 
$232 
$500 
$160 
$15 

$69, 511 


750 
$350 

550 
$250 


16,700 
$8,470 


8 
$8,470 
$8,640 


140 


13,000 
$6,500 
15, 230 
$6,809 


3 

$10,127 

$8, 6.50 

4 
40 


2,750 
$1,100 


8,000 

$4,000 

28.933 

$13, 946 


11 
$17,426 
$17, 577 

12 
116 


13 
106 


75, 170 
$40. 197 

33, 625 
818, 014 

"89,"  606' 

13 

843, 236 
$41,887 

16 
361 


8 
117 


236 


$314 

830 
$104 

$180 

$12, 605 

78,269 

812, 175 

31,462 


1,673 
836 
374 
$97 
$5 
885 
$34 
8170 


83 


900 
$840 


81 
82 


84 
85 
86 

87 


90 
91 

92 
93 
94 
95 

96 
97 
98 
99 
100 
101 
102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
110 
111 
112 
113 
114 


$16, 920     115 


500 

$300 

34, 970 

$15,475 

$300 


10 
$15,  720 
$18, 300 

11 
115 


10 

no 


116 
117 

118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
123 


124 
125 
126 
127 


128 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 


138 
139 
140 
141 

142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 

148 
149 
150 

151 
152 


153 

1.54 
155 
1.56 
157 
158 
1.59 
160 
161 


Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,!:  Illinois,!:  Indiana,!:  Iowa.  1:  Mississippi.!:  New  Hampshire, 
Texas,  1. 


:  Oregon,  2;  South  Carolina,  1; 


168 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  3G.— CARDIN'G  MILLS, 


162 
163 
164 


165 
166 
167 
168 
169 


Power — Cominued. 

Total  horsepower — Continued. 
Rented— 

Electric,  horsepower 

Other  kind,  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  pro- 
prietors and  firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  5 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 


United  States. 


231 

98 

126 

6 

1 


Alabama. 


Arkansas. 


Georgia. 


Kentucky. 


WOOL. 


169 


BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


Minnesota. 

Missouri. 

New  York. 

North  Caro- 
lina. 

Oliio. 

Pennsyl- 
vania. 

Tennessee. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

West  Vir- 
ginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  other 
states.i 

4 

Ifi? 

40 

17 
2 

14 
1 

13 

8 

2 

163 

5 
3 

164 

6 
3 

2 

Hi 
14 
2 

9 
4 
b 

26 
15 
11 

33 
12 

19 
1 

1 

8 
6 
2 

4 

1 
3 

12 

7 
5 

15 

7 
7 
1 

11 
5 
6 

165 
166 

3 

167 
16A 

.. 

161 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,  1;  Illinois,  1;  Indiana,  1;  Iowa,  1;  Mississippi,  1;  New  Hampsliire,  2;  Oregon,  2;  South  Carolina, 
1;  Texas,  1. 


170 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  37.— WOOL  SCOURIKG,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Number  of  eslnblishments 

Character  of  or.canization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

I ncorporated  company 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  siinrlrios 

Proprietors  and  linn  members 

Salaried  otficials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations- 
Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men — 

Number 

Salaries 

■\Vage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  onetime  during  the  year 

Least  number  employed  at  anyone  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 

Wages 

Men, 16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over- 
Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during 
each  mouth; 
Men,  16  years  and  over- 
January  

February 

M  arch 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over- 
January  

Febr  uary 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hith- 
erto included 

Materials  used : 

Total  cost 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil,  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dvestuffs 

Fuel " 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products: 

Pounds  of  wool  scoured 

.Amount  received  for  wool  scouring 

Comparison  of  products : 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishiuents  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines,  steam — 

Number , 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels — 

Number 

Horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower , 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including 
proprietors  and  firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments , 

5  to  20 , 

21  to  50 , 

51  to  lOO , 

101  to  260 


United  States. 


11 
6 

8 

$1,061,123 

S82.950 

$148, 000 

$377,576 

$452, 597 

11 

45 
$72,011 

9 
$15, 000 

36 
$.57,011 

36 
$57,011 

1.070 

473 

720 

$338, 606 

646 
$316,924 

74 
$21,682 


680 
632 
535 
449 
466 
648 
739 
741 
752 
734 
734 
752 

73 
66 
57 
62 
29 
61 
92 
93 
98 
91 
88 


$102. 039 
$19,460 
$19. 796 

$62. 794 

8193.  826 

567.169 

$16,763 

960 

$450 

S66. 393 

$42. 931 

SI. 446 

$20. 816 

$8,982 

$36,045 

70,  S7S,  519 
$889, 809 

23 

$839, 079 
$764,052 

25 
2.900 


25 
2,333 

8 
.667 
116 


California. 


6 
3 
1 

$329, 668 
840.000 
820.000 
874,600 

$195,068 
1 

9 
$11,440 


9 
$11,440 

9 
$11,440 

3S2 

147 

230 

8107, 167 

189 
$93, 375 

41 
$13,792 


216 
178 
146 
97 
67 
145 
255 
203 
222 
222 
•250 
263 

,  38 
28 
31 
23 


23 
67 
.68 
63 
66 
53 
63 

846, 276 

$9. 920 

$14,862 

S20, 494 

$53. 354 
200.000 
$3,000 


$24. 498 
810. 380 


$1,390 

83,086 

311.000 

19.060,000 
8293,200 

6 
8293.200 
$283,000 

6 
485 


485 


Massachu- 
setts. 


$3.>4, 154 

$18, 7.60 

$75,000 

$166.  .500 

893,904 

3 

20 
$44, 176 

3 

$8,000 

17 
836, 176 


836, 176 

416 

175 

298 

8146, 946 

297 
$145,556 

1 

$390 


326 
318 
272 
230 
198 
231 
295 
346 
335 
340 
332 
347 

1 
1 


1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 

$30,569 

$1,655 
$3,355 

$25,559 

$78, 371 
265. 937 
810, 268 


New  Jersey. 


821, 127 
$15, 934 

$1,146 
S15.020 

$1,702 
$13, 174 

30. 709. 844 
8334.912 

5 
8334, 912 
8284,052 


6 
890 


5 
490 


823,776 


$18,476 
$5,300 


4 
83,278 

2 
82,000 

o 

$1,278 

2 
$1,278 

35 
21 

24 
$12,065 

17 
$8,  .565 

7 
83,  .600 


$2,831 

$2,200 

$81 

$5.50 

83. 695 
16. 907 

$4S2 
350 

$210 

$.54 

81.067 

8300 
$1,327 

8130 

8125 

.603, 420 
832. 585 

3 
832. 585 
833.000 

3 

80 


New  Mexico. 


1 
1 
2 

$136,700 
S4.700 
$19,000 
$32,000 
$81,000 
1 


$2,960 


3 
$2,960 

3 
82,960 


.53 

67 

821,890 

42 
817, 890 

25 
84.000 


38 
32 
33 
40 
42 
47 
47 
47 
49 
46 
43 

27 
27 
20 
20 
20 
20 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 
27 

$5,600 
'""$650' 

$4,850 
$22,930 


All  other 
states.! 


813, 020 
$5,760 


$660 

8.600 

$3,000 

6,200,000 
$77. 876 


$46,875 
$46,000 


4 
185 


4 
185 


7 

2 
3 
2 

$216,825 
$19,500 
$34,000 
$86,000 
877,325 

e 

9 

$10, 167 

4 

$6,000 

5 
$6.1.67 

5 
$5,157 

153 

77 

101 

$51,638 

101 
$51,538 


85 
83 
72 
76 

139 
116 
124 
124 
127 
97 
85 
85 


$17,863 

$5,675 

$847 

$11,341 

$35, 476 
85,325 
33,013 
600 
8240 
$7,694 
$9.80» 


$2,419 
$3,664 

$8,746 

14,416,2.55 
$161,237 

6 

$131.. 607 
$118.1H30 


6 
720 

1 
.60 
116 


'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Colorado.  1;  Connecticut,  1;  Illinois,  2;  Missouri,  1:  Oregon.  1;  Pennsylvania.  1. 


WOOL. 


171 


Table  38.-W00L  PULLIN(i,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Number  of  establishments 

Chamoterof  organization: 

Individual ■•. 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

M  iscellaneous 

Capital: 

Buildings ;■.••■, ; 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  "sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  nffl.inls.  clerks,  etc.: 

ToImI  number 

Total  sjil aries 

Officers  of  corporations- 
Number 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc.— 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number  ' 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries ■ 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year. 
Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  jear.... 
Average  number 


United  States. 


Mis-souri. 


Wages — 

Men,  16  years  and  over- 
Average  number !!!..!...!! 

Average  num^CTof  wake"-eMn4rs:inaudYngpiecewOTk;eVs7empi6yVd  during "e'aeh  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over- 
January 

February 

March ' 

A  pri  1 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Miscellaneous  expenses—  , 

Rent  of  works • 

Senf^.f^"fflceMnlSr\ncS 

Amount  paid  for  contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost • 

Sheepskins  handled,  number v  i-:c '„'^.\'^', 1 

All  other  materials  used  which  are  components  of  the  product , 

Oil,  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Chemicals  and  dye  stuffs '.'.'.'.'.\ 

Rent  of  power  and  heat \ 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials • 

Freight 

Products:  ^      ^         , 

Amount  received  for  custom  or  contract  work 

Wool  pulled,  pounds 

Tallow  rendered,  pounds 

Comparison  of  products:  ^       ,     ^  .. 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Val lie  for  preceding  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned— 

Engines — 

Steam,  number 

Horsepower , 

Gae  or  gasoline,  number 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels,  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Rented— 

Establishme^nte  da's'slfl°eTb?Tumberof"  VersiiiV  em^^^^^^^ 

firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees " 

Under  6 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

51  to  100 


34 

16 

11 

6 

1 

8944,715 
8104, 700 
8140, 700 
891,275 
8608, 040 
31 

35 
835,422 


88,600 

27 
826,822 

25 
825, 686 

2 
81,136 

631 

351 

475 

8247, 950 

475 
8247, 9.50 


433 
441 
524 
491 
452 
467 
482 
482 
4.55 
485 
.502 
4.86 

847,  395 
86,210 
86.810 

834,075 
3300 


103, 000 

87,006 

5,000 

81,000 

87,900 

819,  832 

S960 

82. 788 

88,794 

85, 695 

8531,287 

6, 112, 298 

$529, 287 

500,000 

82,000 

21 
8372,137 
8331, 754 

17 
825 


21 

640 

1 

15 

2 

125 

1 

5 


865,420 

8400 

8500 

815, 120 

849,400 

4 

1 

81,200 


New  York, 


1 
81,200 

1 
81,200 


71 

13 

33 

819, 7.59 


819,759 


46 
69 
31 
20 
8 
11 
13 
13 
48 
48 
46 

81,063 

81, 530 

8233 

82,300 


82, 956 
■"8376 


8500 
81, 910 


890 


845,800 
784,000 
845,800 


835, 000 
830, 000 


8114,510 

846,  600 

831,  400 

86,960 

829,  .5.50 

7 

1 
8600 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


1 
8600 


1 
8600 


834,866 


53 
48 
46 
46 

87,7.55 

860 

81,920 

$5,475 

8300 

83, 5.52 

'$i,'2.56' 


$1,  .565 


$125 
85.52 


856, 731 

1, 024, 178 

856,731 


840, 283 
834,000 


All  other 
states.^ 


8222, 690 
$20, 000 
831,700 
817,. 550 

81.53, 440 
9 

4 

82,162 


4 
$2,192 


$1,776 

1 
8416 

89 

85 

85 

844,393 

85 
844,393 


86 
85 
84 
83 
84 
83 
84 
83 
84 

87, 32S 

82,  .580 

8840 

83,908 


$9, 231 
103, 000 
84,380 


$2, 910 


8838 
8843 
8260 

896, 314 

2,071,000 

896, 314 


3 

831,012 
830, 904 

2 
130 


115 
1 

15 


2  I. 


10 
2 
6 


8542, 095 
837,  700 
877, 100 
851,645 

8375,650 
11 

29 
$:il,430 

8 

$8,600 

21 
$22,830 

20 
$22,110 

1 

8720 

392 

202 

298 

8148,932 

298 
8148, 932 


249 
256 
306 
311 
2.82 
297 
306 
317 
306 
305 
325 
310 

$28, 249 
82, 040 
83, 817 

822,392 


838,236 

'""si,"  666 

5,000 
81,000 
87,400 
$13, 447 
$960 
81,745 
87,809 
85, 375 

8332,442 

2, 233, 120 

8330,442 

500,000 

$2,000 

15 
8265,842 

8236,850 

13 
.590 


17 
425 


2 
125 


IS 
1 
3 
7 


.includes  establishments  distributed  a,  follows:  California,  2:   Illinois,  1:  Indiana,  1:  Kentucky,  1:  Maine,  1:  Massachusetts,  2:  Minnesota,  1:  New  Jersey,  1: 
Onio,  2:  Washington,  1;  Wisconsin,  1. 


172 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  ;J9.— SHODDY, 


37 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Intiividual 

Firm  aiul  limited  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  a  iid  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc.— 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men — 

Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Nxunber 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 

Wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during  each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over- 
January  

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over- 
January  ■ 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January 

February 

March : 

April 

May 

June -• 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Spinners — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Finishers —  " 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards , 

Spindles,  number 

Spinning — 

Woolen 

Ijooms,  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number 

Narrow,  under  50  inches  reed  space — 

On  woolen  goods 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto  included. 
Contract  work 


United  States. 


105 

as 

30 

17 

85,272,929 

UM.ffih 

S765, 336 

SI,  36.0, 926 

82, 706, 993 

102 

139 
8166,704 

18 

344,462 

121 
8122,242 

111 

8118, 506 

10 
$3,736 

2,426 

1,520 

1,926 

$748,948 

1,425 
8620,444 

480 
8124, 004 

21 
$4,500 


1,458 
1,576 
1,557 
1,492 
1,424 
1,422 
1,260 
1,353 
1,401 
1,401 
1,429 
1,327 

503 
525 
528 
483 
491 
485 
398 
464 
464 
483 
503 
433 

18 
18 
19 
21 
22 
21 
21 
oo 

22 
22 
24 
22 


11 

3 

356 
3,288 

3,288 
20 

20 

8293, 149 
840,130 
821,042 

$219,561 
$12,416 


California. 


Connecticut. 


1 
1 
1 

810,225 
$1,500 
$2,625 

$2,500 

$3,600 

4 


8 
83,940 


$3,940 


$586 
8384 


8135 


$194, 074 
830,050 
866,6.50 
$67, 6.51 

$329,  723 
13 


88,191 


$8,191 

8 
$8,191 


144 

101 

118 

$44,163 

101 
$40,461 


81,402 


10 
$2,300 


105 

107 

107 

102 

97 

87 

92 

93 

104 

100 

116 


20 

$33,601 
84,345 
?1,559 

$l.s,721 
$8,976 


WOOL. 


173 


BY  STATES:  1900. 


Massachusetts. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

Ohio. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

Vermont. 

All  other  states.' 

29 

4 

9 

6 

26 

9 

3 

9 

1 

7 

1 

16 

5 

4 
2 
3 

8285,811 

1 

2 

10 

3 
4 

6 
8769, 294 

3 

$n38,  936 

5 

$1,397,746 

$329,861 

$972, 070 

$228,930 

8245,  382 

5 

«S2. 086 

$49. 290 

$18,700 

$120,500 

$83,  fi.50 

$6,  .500 

811.200 

831,200 

6 

$188, SS8 

$98, 953 

$45,150 

$138,000 

8145,600 

$21,700 

825,  800 

832,000 

7 

$21,5, 88.5 

8128,  751 

$77, 152 

$408, 700 

$254, 181 

$114,605 

815,600 

881,000 

8 

$282,466 

8261.942 

8188,859 

$730, 646 

$188, 639 

886, 125 

8193,482 

$141,611 

9 

29 

11 

19 

16 

4 

c 

10 

30 

15 

35 

34 

3 

1 

6 

11 

$34,336 

830,100 

$6,130 

$55,225 

$24,746 

$3,400 

81,000 

$3,576 

12 

5 
S5,a50 

25 

6 
$22,300 

9 

6 
$16,000 

29 

1 
S3I2 

5 

11 

14 

7 

34 

3 

1 

15 

$28,486 

$7,800 

$6, 130 

$39,225 

$24,746 

$3,400 

81,000 

$3,264 

16 

24 

9 

6 

23 

32 

3 

1 

6 

17 

$28,086 

$7,800 

85,630 

$37,025 

$24, 110 

$3,400 

81,000 

$3,264 

18 

1 
$400 

1 
8.500 

6 

$2. 200 

2 
$636 

19 

■"O 

449 

222 

173 

562 

413 

156 

126 

172 

21 

234 

102 

166 

339 

322 

98 

70 

80 

22 

307 

166 

167 

474 

368 

131 

93 

104 

23 

$127,715 

856,027 

866,739 

$164,579 

$148,240 

$56,397 

$45,345 

$36,803 

24 

260 

128 

137 

229 

285 

127 

67 

83 

25 

$114,492 

$49,  -145 

858,695 

$102,736 

$126, 604 

8.55,096 

$38,142 

$30,833 

26 

44 

28 

28 

245 

80 

4 

26 

18 

27 

$12,794 

$6,582 

$6,781 

$61,843 

$21,064 

$1,301 

$7,203 

$5,034 

28 

3 

2 
$263 

3 

$572 

3 
$936 

29 

30 

273 

129 

141 

253 

292* 

131 

69 

63 

31 

336 

131 

141 

280 

296 

132 

68 

79 

32 

820 

110 

141 

285 

299 

137 

75 

75 

;« 

306 

113 

141 

281 

273 

136 

58 

69 

M 

289 

105 

141 

249 

280 

134 

M 

62 

x> 

253 

115 

138 

233 

294 

122 

67 

95 

36 

200 

113 

115 

159 

282 

114 

74 

108 

37 

220 

132 

137 

195 

286 

114 

65 

104 

38 

237 

142 

141 

195 

294 

120 

69 

102 

39 

214 

146 

137 

230 

289 

123 

67 

83 

40 

230 

155 

138 

229 

267 

131 

72 

99 

41 

242 

142 

137 

154 

266 

133 

63 

66 

42 

40 

26 

28 

263 

84 

6 

28 

20 

43 

47 

28 

28 

272 

82 

2 

33 

1             25 

44 

58 

26 

28 

270 

85 

2 

33 

18 

45 

47 

29 

28 

270 

75 

2 

17 

7 

46 

44 

28 

28 

263 

85 

2 

22 

15 

47 

41 

22 

28 

265 

80 

2 

20 

19 

48 

33 

25 

27 

182 

75 

2 

25 

21 

49 

46 

32 

29 

228 

76 

3 

25 

16 

50 

48 

28 

28 

227. 

75 

3 

26 

20 

51 

34 

28 

28 

262 

74 

4 

27 

20 

52 

41 

31 

28 

261 

80 

6 

26 

24 

,53 

46 

34 

32 

181 

87 

8 

28 

11 

54 

1 
1 
2 
4 
5 
4 
3 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 

2 
2 
2 
2 
4 
2 

3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 
3 

2 

3 

62 

3 
3 
3 
3 
8 
3 
3 
3 
S 
3 
3 
3 

9 

.55 

56 

.57 

.58 

59 

60 

61 

6? 

63 

64 

65 

66 

67 

68 

58 

48 

22 

67 

63 

9 

28 

69 

480 

2,520 

2,520 

70 

480 

71 

7',' 

73 

850,027 

$-25,798 

$18, 122 

$69,259 

$.57,  728 

$23,828 

87,609 

86, 591 

74 

$7, 368 

$250 

$2, 440 

$540 

$11, 023 

811.290 

82,490 

75 

$5,372 

SI,  4.57 

81,134 

85,495 

$3,513 

$824 

81,168 

$453 

76 

837,287 

823. 176 
$915 

$14,648 


$63,224 

$40,667 
$2.  .525 

811,714 

$6,441 


$3,W8 

77 
78 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Georgia,  1;  Illinois,  2;  Indiana,  1;  Maine,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Wisconsin,  1. 


174 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  39.— vSHODDY, 


80 
81 
82 
83 
84 

85 
86 
87 
88 
89 
90 
91 

92 
93 
94 
95 
% 
97 
98 
99 
100 
101 
102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 
110 
111 

112 

113 
114 
115 
116 
117 
118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 
128 
129 
130 

131 
132 
133 

134 
135 


136 
137 
138 
139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 


146 
147 

148 
149 
160 
151 
152 
153 


United  States. 


California. 


Connecticut. 


Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purcliased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc.,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hiiir  and  fur — 

Cumi'l,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  hair,  pounds 

Cost 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials  not  made  in  mill — 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Camel ,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton  waste,  pounds 

Cost 

Pieces,  clippings,  mill  waste,  old  material,  rags,  etc. ,  pounds 

Cost 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil,  for  repairing  wool  for  cards  or  combs 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuSs 

Fuel 

Ren  t  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products: 

Total  value 

Partlv  manufactured  products  for  sjile — 

Woolen  yam,  all  wool,  pounds 

Value 

Woolen  or  worsted  yarn,  union  or  merino,  cotton  jnixed.  pounds 

Value *. 

Wool  card  rolls,  pounds - 

Value 

Noils,  pounds 

Value 

Waste,  pounds 

Value 

Shodd  y,  pounds 

Value 

Wool  extract,  pounds 

Value 

Flocks,  pounds ■ 

Value ■ 

All  other  products ■ 

Amount  received  for  contract  work 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines — 

Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels,  number : 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Rented,  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  proprietors  and  firm 
members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  5 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

51  to  100 

101  to  250 

251  to  500 


84,875,192 

17,500 
SS,700 

404.849 
S118,3»9 

242,997 

2,000 
$160 
104,000 
310,285 
345 
172,652 
815,202 

4, 216, 428 

S689,412 

11,600 

S3, 600 

8,000 

S960 

1.58,000 

84,875 

79, 623, 312 

$3,558,706 

64,350 

52,396 

440,342 

888,843 

5111,095 

$115,365 

S6, 336 

839.317 

S46.026 

$55,515 

$6,730,974 

7.5,000 

830,000 

157, 775 

837,077 

.5,000 

82,000 

333,713 

840,807 

1,608,470 

8148, 043 

39,014,661 

So,  388,37s 

4,980,825 

$620,604 

2,080,758 

8131, 894 

841,610 

8290,661 

82 
55,846,380 
85, 104, 746 

104 
11,660 


90 

7,123 

2 

45 

63 

4,069 

3 

105 

218 

75 


105 

3 

24 

41 

24 

9 

3 

1 


59.156 


1,200,000  I 
85,850  I 


SI,  386 

51,500 

S360 


817, 678 


1,160,  .500 
817, 678 


3 
S17, 678 
817, 580 

2 
115 


$362,438 


790,  .585 
$50,925 


5,594,984 
$272, 416 


67,313 
88,647 
$8,393 
88.130 


83,903 

"sio^ffii 

5-537, 733 


333,713 

840,807 

12,500 

8427 

2.860.503 

82X5. 3*2 

1.720,962 

81>4,235 

.561,031 

841,748 


815, 134 

6 
8-536.997 
$557, 613 

7 
1,294 


11 

610 


10 
684 


1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Ceorgia,  1;  Illinois,  2:  Indiana,  1;  Maine,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Wisconsin,  1. 


BY  STATES:    1900— Continued. 


WOOL. 


Massachusetts, 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

Ohio. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

Vermont. 

All  other  states.' 

8685, 123 

8626,492 

17,500 
88,700 
37,600 
812, 20O 
55,000 

8310, 7.S3 

81.077,529 

$1,069,944 

8399, 120 

8268, 712 

8165,889 

79 
SO 

81 

7,000 

$2,800 

7,000 

324,094 
889,427 
150,047 

2,000 

$160 

1,000 

$35 

108 
53,986 
84.793 

66.922 
811,102 

3,  .500 

$1,0.50 

3,600 

32,755 

$12,922 

27,4,50 

82 

8S 

84 

85 

t 

85 

103,000 
810, 250 

:::::::::::::::::::::;::::;:;;::::: ::::::::::::::::..... 

87 

88 

150 
7.5,000 
$5,250 

100,000 
810,000 

' 

40 

20,000 

8900 

47 
23,666 
$4,259 

89 

I'"'   ■ 

90 

91 

305,500 
$69,210 

1,261,421 

8189,715 

11,600 

83.600 

1.392,000 

8288,460 



300,000 
870,000 

92 

93 

94 

!                       

95 

8,000 
8960 



96 

97 

158,000 

84,875 

1,968,0.53 

8126, 326 

98 

99 

$526, 164 

2,500 

865 

75,207 

$19,946 

$16,260 

$26,013 

5, 933, 355 

8267,001 

5, 200 

$245 

27,600 

86,024 

84,  .560 

$11,665 

22,940,659 

$249,411 

16,700 

8636 

17,502 

$3, 128 

$11,800 

89,933 

$410 

$2,345 

812, 814 

85,066 

$443,529 

8,992,053 

8866, 740 

13,000 

8475 

102,433 

812,893 

839, 390 

821,910 

11,871,628 

$705, 764 

1,950 

875 

123,288 

$24,272 

$12,950 

$16, 808 

$926 

$6,124 

$3,633 

$8,917 

81.448,886 

76,000 
830,000 

3,311,6P7 

8287,800 

26, 000 

$900 

16,000 

86,760 

$10,397 

89,727 

83,000 

82,850 

845 

87,647 

8515, 643 

6,616,000 
82.52, 234 

100 
101 

m? 

103 

14,800 
$5,920 
$2,595 
85,678 

6,299 
81,2.53 
84.7.50 
84,115 

$500 
82, 204 

8395 
85,290 

$232,704 

104 
105 
106 
107 
108 

1                     810,  WS 
84,107 
810,273 

8988,189 

82,500 
86.017 
84,015 

8685.048 

$7,621 

818,900 

$4,083 

$1,478,712 

81,126 
$110 
8150 

$382,862 

109 
110 
111 

112 

113 

114 

157,775 
837,077 

115 

116 

6,000 
82,000 

117 

118 

119 

120 

142, 000 

829,950 

2,459,233 

8589,566 

io6,666 

810.000 

4.. 567. 209 

8416,105 

10, 000 

89,000 

279, 160 

$24, 1.50 

.5,914,246 

$1,327,939 

900,000 

$126,000 

1,074,810 

883,  .516 

11,6.5.5,149 

.81,282,699 

121 

12'.^ 

1                    4, 543, 254 

8622, 454 

1,922,863 

$iT4, 069 

79,180 

85,382 

1.854,820 

8368,964 

17,000 

8500 

908,000 

862,812 

2,633,000 

8323,792 

420,000 

856,700 

1,376,748 
$153,899 

12i 
124 

12.5- 

126 

500,  647 
$30,032 
836,500 

32,000 
81,920 

1?7 

- 

128 

81,360 
81,000 

3 
8382,852 
8292,821 

3 

882 

4 
307 

$4,7.50 
$36,978 

4 
$169,046 
8190, 400 

9 
735 

5 
315 

1'29 

20 
8894,  775 

29 
8,622 

21 
1,952 

1 

20 

SO 

1,650 

$6, 424 

7 
8291,529 
8230,  ,509 

9 

699 

4 
400 

$623 

5 
$1,460,712 
$1,330,010 

6 
1,050 

6 
1,035 

860,851 

22 

81,196,200 

8942, 115 

26 
1,632 

29 

1,454 

$93, 367 

9 
8.515,  643 
$482, 682 

9 
741 

4 
275 

130 

3 

8380,948 
8276, 092 

4 

790 

5 
725 

131 
132 

isa 

134 
135 

13ft 
137 
1,3» 

139 

1 
65 

1 
60 

5 
391 

1 
25 
50 
35 

9 

510 

1 
65 

5 
420 

140 

299 

141 

1 
15 

142 

143 

128 
40 

26 

144 

14& 

29 
2 
9 

11 
5 
1 
1 

4 

9 
1 
2 
2 

Q 

6 

3 

9 

146 

1 

6 
12 
6 
2 

i 

0 

1 
1 

0 

2 

14t 

2 
1 
1 
1 

^Ht\ 

3                                      1 

1,51 

1 

152 

IftS 

1 

. 

176 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  40.— FUR  HATS,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Finn  and  liinitt'd  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

CapiUxl: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Ctish  and  "sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salarie<l  otlicials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Oiiicers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc.^— 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men — 

Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number ." 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  niece  workers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  niunber  employed  at  any  one  lime  during  the  year. 
Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year. . . 

Average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

.\verage  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  em- 
ployed during  each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

January 

February  

March  .*. 

April  

May 

June 

July 

.\ugust 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

January  

February  

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years- 
January  _. 

February .'. 

March  . .' 

A  pril 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Weavers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

"Women. 16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Machinery: 

Formers  for  fur  hats 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  ex- 
penses not  hitherto  included 

Contract  work 


United  States. 


69 
72 
30 

816,701,308 
SI, 501, 514 
S5, 023, 693 
S3, 043, 261 
59,132,840 
208 

726 
$M3,998 

76 
8242,734 

650 
8701, 264 

585 
$670,355 

65 
830,909 

22,008 

16,398 

18,880 

89, 119, 264 

13, 187 
87,231,777 

5,436 
81,840,454 

257 
847,033 


12, 989 
13, 229 
13, 459 
12, 781 
12, 451 
12,470 
13,313 
14,018 
14,101 
13, 360 
12,825 
13, 248 

5, 608 
5,819 
5, 875 
5,532 
5,226 
5,087 
5,265 
6,484 
6,  .548 
5,294 
5,129 
5,365 

253 
252 
249 
250 
2.51 
266 
266 
272 
269 
254 
246 
256 


840 
45 
1 


81,416,737 
S9.=i,217 
851,566 

81,172,011 
S97, 943 


Connecticut. 


58 

16 
31 
11 

83,197,551 
8113, 788 
8323,388 
$714,116 

82,046,259 
85 

173 
8172, 780 

26 
839, 524 

147 
$133,256 

133 
$125,960 

14 
$7,296 

5,916 

4,171 

4,868 

$2, 414,. 561 

3,405 
$1,966,174 

1,458 
$447,029 

5 
81,358 


3,369 
3,521 
3,706 
3,314 
3,098 
2,879 
3,592 
3,906 
3,931 
3,262 
3, 126 
3,160 

1,497 
1,563 
1,607 
1,427 
1,334 
1,  2.58 
1,517 
1,594 
1,616 
1,356 
1,343 
1,378 


Massachu- 
setts. 


248 
9 


2 
7 
2 

81,467,700 
S46,a56 
8319, 101 
$363,939 
$738,304 
18 

54 
$55,659 

4 
$6,000 

50 
$19,659 

45 
$48,058 


$1,601 

2,380 

1,377 

1,823 

8790,786 


8514,262 


834 
8274,254 


13 
$2,270 


1,025 

1,060 

1,054 

994 

860 

880 

916 

1,047 

1,076 

975 

891 

937 

1,047 

1,102 

1,100 

1,027 

842 

706 

676 

730 

720 

701 

636 

723 


81 

8392, 152 
S30.864 
811,979 

8313,683 
835, 626 


New  Jersey. 


30 
19 
10 

$2,932,311 
8242,930 

8484,  7.51 

$500,9.50 

81,703,680 

66 

151 
8186, 266 

26 
855, 320 

128 
8130, 946 

117 
8125,598 

U 
85,348 

5,635 

3,925 

4,745 

$2,487,067 

3.507 
$2,071,822 

1,199 
8405,795 


$9,450 


3,274 
3,335 
3,358 
3,440 
3,470 
3,432 
3,.>17 
3,733 
3,692 
3,771 
3,488 
3,510 

1,124 
1,170 
1,186 
1,205 
1,200 
1,155 
1,180 
1,249 
1,283 
1,263 
1,170 
1,202 

39 
40 
40 
39 
40 
41 
41 
39 


35 


19 

$97,787 

$9, 910 

810,  667 

870,  410 
S6, 900 


New  York. 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


All  other 
states.' 


104 

8253. 998 

828, 912 
811.622 

8188,682 
$24,782 


6 
6 
3 

83,050,381 
$246,000 
$476, 746 
8634,112 

$1,693,523 
12 

135 
$224,354 


$79,770 

127 
$144, 5M  ; 

116  ' 
$139,014  j 

11  ' 
$5,540 

4,499 
3,886 
4,133  I 
$2,079,464 

2,960 
$1,566,907 

1,112 
$499,772 

61 
$12,785 


3.002 
2,979 
2,999 
2,736 
2,719 
2,992 
2,%1 
2,988 
3,005 
2,973 
2, 975 
3,192 

1,137 
1,155 
1,147 
1,031 
1,012 
1,146 
1,078 
1,092 
1,102 
1,114 
1,136 
1,193 

58 
68 
59 
61 
60 
62 
62 
62 
63 
62 
61 
60 


214 
5 
1 


$300,185  \ 
S11.360 

SS.  792 

8269,283 
$10,750 


n 

7 
2 

$5,726,259 
8848,940 

$1,368,207 

$736,849 

$2,772,263 

22 

180 
$269,619 

6 
854,120 

174 
$215, 499 

154 
$206,135 

20 
$9,364 

3,101 

2,662 

2,890 

$1,187,272 

2.043 
$984,782 

714 

$182,606 

133 
$19,884 


1,990 
2,009 
2,023 
2,025 
2,041 
2,040 
2,000 
2,035 
2,080 
2,086 
2,052 
2,130 

679 
705 
710 
721 
714 
710 
704 
709 
709 
739 
723 
748 

138 
135 
131 
132 
134 
131 
133 
134 
132 
132 
131 
138 


135 


220 
31 


4 
2 
2 

$327,108 

83,  .500 

851,. 500 

$93, 295 

$178,811 

5 

30 

835,320 

6 
$8,000 

24 
$27,  .320 

20 
82.5,560 

4 
$1,760 

477 

377 

421 

$160. 114 

296 
$127, 8.30 

119 
$30,998 

6 
81,286 


329 
325 
319 
272 
263 
247 
297 
307 
317 
293 
293 
289 

124 
124 
125 
124 
124 
112 
110 
110 
118 
121 
121 
121 

6 
6 
6 

e 

6 

e 

6 
8 
6 
6 
• 
6 


$351,729 
89,536 
86.986 

831.5, 322 
$19, 8.S5 


$20, 8^ 
S4.635 
81.620 

$14,631 


'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  1;  Indiana,  1:  Maine,  1;  Missouri,  1:  Ohio,  1:  Rhode  Island,  2:  West  Virginia.  I. 


WOOL. 

Tabi.k  40.— fur  hats,   BY  STATES:  1900— (bntinued. 


177 


Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Animal  hair  and  fur — 

BufTalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill — 

Cotton,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Fur  hat  bodies,  and  hats  in  the  rough,  dozens 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  the  prod- 
uct   

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestufis 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products: 

Total  value 

Hats- 
Wool  hats,  dozens 

Value 

Fur  hats,  dozens 

Value 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale — 

Waste,  pounds 

Value 

Fur  hat  bodies  and  hats  in  the  rough,  dozens , 

Value 

Value  of  all  other  products 

Received  for  contract  work 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  lor  preceding  business  year , 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines- 
Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels,  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Rented — 

Electric  horsepower 

Other  kind,  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not 
Including  propriett^rs  ami  firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  6 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

61  to  100 

101  to  250 , 

261  to  600 

601  to  1,000 

Over  1.000 


United  States. 


S13,.513,6G8 

6, 166, 269 
86, 376, 991 

2, 0.52 

S3, 276 

3,541 

824, 984 

148.  212 

8882,986 

83, 884,  680 

34,065 

81,535 

8656, 794 

8376, 366 

86,310 

$72, 793 

81,144,685 

882, 268 

827,811,187 

180 

84,320 

1,882,372 

826.  385, 506 

160, 950 
83.219 

165,  010 
8992, 730 
8933,  493 
8491,  919 

146 
$25, 505,  780 
$22, 960, 7b9 

)31 
12, 625 


143 

11,570 

3 

38 

1 

25 

30 

782 

79 

131 

62 


171 

1 

22 

30 

33 

23 

32 

22 

6 

2 


Connecticut. 


83,685,748 

1,499,767 
81,463,491 


•    61,726 
8381,362 


8993. 708 


8272, 635 

8117,839 

$2, 045 

824, 918 
$392,809 

836, 941 

87, 546, 882 


497,683 
86, 543, 736 


153,188 

8946, 9.57 

83,818 

8.52.  371 

49 
87, 163, 221 
86, 359, 7.57 

49 
3, 372 


61 
3,216 


58 


Massachu- 
setts. 


New  Jersey. 


81,389,516         $3,636,521 


456,  .593 
S.M2, 035 


29,338 
$139, 889 

$487, 573 


$62, 930 

$26, 316 

$1,012 

84.140 

8120,  .540 

$5,111 

82,  630, 964 


227,032 
82,244,941 


4, 322 

$8,273 

$377, 760 


10 
82, 500, 104 
$2, 143, 770 


1,005 


9 

835 

1 

10 


160 
10 


1,897,113 
$2,076,259 


22,711 
$113, 197 


$954, 107 


$121,917 

8118.302 

8400 

814.983 
8220,219 

$17, 137 

$7,211,229 


590, 939 
1, 773, 402 


7,500 

$37,500 

$2,040 

$398, 287 

53 
B, 736, 546 
«, 430, 270 

44 
4,077 


45 

3,684 

1 


7 
368 


$2,607,454 


1,281,4.52 
$1, 163,  340 


24,620 
$171,660 

8773,214 

13,600 

8560 

8117,  tWl 

866. 130 

8225 

814.568 

8289, 665 

811.411 

85, 602, 458 


226,061 
85, 0.52, 670 


160, 950 
$3, 219 


8641,710 
84,959 

10 
84,781,689 
$4, 287, 820 

10 
1,941 


16 

1,816 

1 

20 


3 
101 


Pennsyl- 
vania. 


$1,866,866 

817,311 
8933, 748 

2,052 
83,276 

3,  ,541 
$24,984 

5,045 
842,341 

$602, 407 

6,565 

8225 

877.317 

$40, 957 

$1,  658 

$11,114 

$119, 624 

89, 215 

84,243,352 

180 

84,320 

280, 880 

84, 203, 169 


8976 
$34,888 

18 
$3, 774, 839 
$3,266,571 

15 
1,883 


19 
1,694 


15 
146 


43 


All  other 
states.! 


$327,533 

214,033 
$198, 118 


4,772 
834,5,')7 

$73. 671 
15,000 

8750 
84,314 
87, 822 

8970 
83.070 
81,828 
82, 4.53 

8576,302 


59, 777 
$567,688 


87,200 
81.414 

6 
8549,481 
$462,601 

6 
347 


3 

326 


1 
15 


1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  1;  Indiana,  1;  Maine,  1;  Missouri,  1;  Ohio,  1;  Rhode  Island,  2;  West  Virginia.  1. 
MON TEXT 12 


178 


MANUFACTUKES. 

Table  41.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  (iOODS:  COMPARATIVE  .SUMMARY 


WOOL. 

BY  STATES,  AKBANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY,  1850-1900. 


179 


Misoellane- 
oiis  ex- 
penses. 


86,599,865 
3,627,245 

m 


(?) 


1,114,174 
929, 336 


6,3S9 
1,019 


175,118 
241,201 


Cost  o[  Bia- 
terials  used. 


851,071,859 

35,861.685 

15,210,951 

9, 835, 823 

3,202,317 

415, 113 


108, 006 
63, 188 


.528, 103 
315, 786 


90,900 
110, 720 


205,668 
197, 422 


4, 260,  .577 
2,242,276 


2,199,029 
1,389,427 


122,374 
101,146 


1,884,722 
741,956 


32,471 


21,981 
9,747 


9, 326, 415 
8,661,686 
4, 034, 873 
3,282,123 
1,092,358 


10,810 

33, 8.39 

1,800 


1,319,170 

1,777,  .595 

1,249,600 

S,S1,646 

338, 075 

1,115,324 

649, 004 

3.59, 938 

191,219 

61,840 

2, 910, 640 
2, 5.52, 705 
1, 394, 748 
1,, 515, 326 
132, 075 

1,766,.S31 

1,618,621 

14, 8.38 

68, 541 


2,202,640 

2, 029, 921 

1,013,949 

625, 391 

560,368 

32,699,721 

23, 0.59, 630 

10,264,739 

6,505,973 

2, 082, 344 


20,218,200 

13,669,169 

5,072,058 

3,391,840 

870,479 

997,110 
582, 783 
258, 043 
188, 030 
279,9.52 

10,928,113 

8, 720, 363 

4, 924, 138 

2, 925, 323 

928, 915 

209,048 


347,2.50 

87,315 

.500 

780 


PRINCIPAL  MATEEIAI.S— QUANTITIES   CONSUMEU. 


Wool  in  condition  purchased. 


Total 
(pounds). 


5,716,460 
8, 398, 4.36 
4, 348, 024 
2,4.83,733 
1,467,260 


820, 271 

3, 456, 174 

1,756,332 

880, 750 

362, 120 

540, 934 
576, 669 
401,  333 
146, 2.S9 
130,000 

1,146,940 

1,812,076 

1, 088, 684 

904,900 

196,000 

735,548 
788, 311 

""'lis,' 666' 


2,472,767 

1,76.5,206 

1,101,675 

438,794 

769, 140 

7,031,403 
10,083,581 
4, 006, 871 
3, 112, 622 
1,462,866 


Foreign 
(pounds). 


3,446,838 

2,734,304 

448, 7.5.S 

292, 300 


P> 


1,408,206 

1,035,183 

209, 440 

141,. 500 


Dir.nostic 
(pounds). 


Yarns  not  made  in  mill. 


Merino         Woolen 
(pounds'),     (pounds) 


4, 308, 254 
7, 363, 253 
4,138,584 
2, 342, 233 


109,163 

243, 850 

76,000 

40,500 


711,108 
3, 212, 324 
1,680,332 

840,250 


1,981,484 

(=) 
67,561 

(■) 


141, 633 


2,621,893 
6, 386, 370 
3,753,566 
2,229,77V 


444,321 
869,432 
674, 986 
315,419 


Worsted 
(pounds). 


5,823,215 

4,146,035 

7.50,2,55 


3.8,000 


5,628,329 
9, 024, 692 
2, 548, 969 
2, 168, 822 
689, 066 

1.55, 160 
404,. 847 
175, 184 
230,000 
419,800 

1,347,914 
6,54, 042 

1,282,718 
713,800 
364,000 


86,630 
66,000 


2,000 
52,989  i 

7,266  \ 
25,000 


4,54,  404 
.510,669 
401,333 
146, 289 


1,144.940 

1,759,087 

1,081,418 

879,  900 


28,860  I 
140,000 


1,181,663 

532, 344 

126, 174 

76,000 


706, 698 
648, 311 


113,000 


1,291,104 

1,232,862 

975, 601 

362, 794 


1,381,117 

1,081,363 

239, 318 

150, 800 


710, 834 
882,065 
186, 326 
160, 800 


88, 068 

188, 839 

5,400 


582, 215 
10, 469 
47, 592 


5,650,286 
9,002,218 
3, 767, 5.53 
2,961,822 


20, 878 


44, 604 


18,000 

29,075 

2,000 


107, 426 
96, 658 
96,500 


2,000 
1.200 


128, 631 
456, 440 
502, 511 
249,  356 


Raw  cotton 

and 

cotton  warji 

and  yarn  not 

made  in  mill 

(pounds). 


12,320 


270, 820 

106, 478 

2,500 


181,271,369 

04,681,466 

28,48.5,238 

13, 662, 225 

3,892,342 

(=) 


26,589,672 

12,214,509 

3,977,864 

4,033,943 

1,093,001 


Animal  hair 
and  fur  and 

iir)i's  not 
made  in  mill 

(pounds). 


Shoddy 

not  made  in 

mill 

(pounds). 


_l_ 


1,093,854 

424,496 

66,929 


(.') 


93, 741 
128, 525 
26, 779 


3,770,626 

4, 735, 144 

1,523,263 

189, 857 


922, 5.58 

1,081,  .598 

366,843 

10,000 


29, 162 


934,460 
"67,561 


4,817,495 
8, 142, 627 
2,362,643 
2,018,022 


67,092 
216, 008 
169, 784 
230, 000 


765, 699 

643,683 

1,235,126 

713, 80C 


562,040 


10,000 


181,264 

108, 1.59 

22, 760 


9,000 

177,100 

60, 025 

66,063 


46,091 
'""666' 


411,468 

278, 853 

88, 619 


.531,778 
446, 633 


233,282 

177,331 

14, 582 


1,393,685 
3, 158,204 
2, 327, 394 
1,871,183 


2, 948, 525 

2,741,794 

614, 404 


350,011 
""67,'66i' 


12,409 


902,234 

1,034,837 

538, 467 

50,  500 


43,800 

113, 600 

106, 300 

1,000 


409, 163 
1,985,017 
1, 682, 127 
1,819,183 


38,488 

54,750 

500 

500 


1,585,842 

696, 260 

46, 169 


232, 167 

36, 629 

3,100 


1, 116, 863 

1,995,905 

566, 145 


6,000 


3, 173, 765 
841, 739 

1,102,284 
946, 235 
308, 280 

2, 632, 214 

666, 448 

406,639 

384, 789 

60,000 

13,626,843 

4, 466, 466 

857, 700 

1,849,994 

148,000 

4, 196, 940 
3,337,264 

30,' 666' 


3, 059, 910 
2, 896, 593 
1,611, .341 
822, 925 
1,180,721 

128,244,160 

47, 428, 283 

24, 305, 874 

9,601,982 

2,195,341 


I  668, 821 

4,200  I  960,998 

6,000  186,900 

I 

161,145 

16,882 

'  2, 525 


65,075 
44,500 
8,000 


90,566 


3,175 

124, 325 

21,779 


27, 617 

47,000 

169,418 

10,000 


685,885 
241,049 
40, 150 


2,212,261 

3,174,904 

1, 146, 420 

179, 857 


14, 663 
14,000 


83,  449, 895 

27,9.S2,069 

16, 164,  .505 

7,119,839 

1,348,941 

2, 140, 832 
812,202 
487,026 
216, 700 
766, 400 

40,  .541, 727 

18,488,312 

7,6.54,343 

2, 264, 943 

80,000 

1,099,817 


1,011,889 
115,700 


500 


686,885 

21.5,195  I 

40,000 


2,105,364 

3, 069, 939 

1,062,011 

179, 857 


10,673 
150 


18, 623 
15, 563 


106, 907 
86, 342 
68, 856 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries:  number  only  reported  in  1900,  hut  not  include.l  in  this  table.     (See  Table  42.) 
SNot  reported  separately. 

<At°the  cens'us'of  1850  totals  for  the  diiTerent  states  were  not  published,  totals  for  the  United  .States  only  being  given. 

6  No  establishments  reported. 

t  Maryland  is  classed  in  this  table  as  a  Middle  state  for  purposes  of  comparison. 


Value  of 
products. 


895, 482, 566 

67,241,013 

29, 167, 227 

18,411,564 

7,280,606 

1,028,102 


17,834,673      7 

16,034,801  I    8 

7,912,916  I    9 

6,910,797  !10 

2,374,242    11 


29, 075 
76,603 
3,000 


2, 592, 829 
3,481,922 
2, 362, 779 
1,757,446 
673, 794 

1,834,685 

1,105,968 

696,270 

651,129 

102,800 

6, 620, 267 
6, 082, 087 
2,483,696 
3, 213, 481 
314, 120 

2, 713, 850 

2,516,664 

36,000 

137, 000 


4, 043, 977 
3,771,567 
2,432,271 
1,251,742 
1,383,528 


60,473,407  42 
42,993,045  43 
19,696,688  '44 
11,405,380  45 
4,847,984  ,46 


12 
13 
14 
15 
16 

17 
18 
19 
20 
21 

22 
23 
24 
25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 

32 
33 
34 
35 


35,886,048 

24,776,582 

9, 899, 540 

6,  .528, 742 

1,914,090 

1,748,148 

1,091,403 

861,181 

.568, 900 

783,466 

21,896,063 

16, 944, 237 

8, 935, 147 

5,306,738 

2,114,315 

429,055 


514,093 

180, 823 

720 

1,000 

6,123 


180 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  41.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS:  COMPARATIVK  SUMMARY 


STATES. 

Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OFFI- 
CIALS,CLEBKS,ETC. 

AVEKAGE  NUMBER  OF  WAQE-EABSERS  AND 
TOTAL  WAGES. 

MACHINERY. 

Num- 
ber. 

Salaries. 

Total. 

Men, 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Wom- 
en, 

16  years 
and 

over. 

Chil- 
dren, 
under 

16 
years. 

Cards. 

Comb- 
ing ma- 
chines. 

Knit- 
ting 
ma- 
chines. 

Sewing 

ma- 
chines. 

Looms. 

Spin- 
dles. 

Aver- 
age 

num- 
ber. 

Wages. 

72 
73 

Southern  states 

Virginia  

North  Carolina. 

South  Carolina. 

Georgia 

Kentucky 

Tennessee 

Alabama 

Louisiana 

All  other  South- 
em  states. 

Western  states 

Ohio 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 

71 
22 

1 

3,522,871 

647,099 

5,000 

201 
30 

$174,678 
24, 708 

6,137 

1,484 

4 

$1,115,356 

288,352 

700 

1,480 

211 

2 

3,246 
894 

1,412 

379 

2 

41 
15 

5,519 

795 

1 

1,014 

is' 

4 

24,126 
6,353 

7t 

3 

2,700 

4 

1,680 

4 

77 
78 

1900 
'1890 
=  1880 
21870 
=  1860 

1900 

1890 

=  1880 

21870 

'1860 

1900 
21890 
21880 
21870 
21860 

1900 

1890 

21880 

21870 

21860 

21900 
11890 
21880 
21870 
1860 

1900 
2  1890 
=  1880 
21870 
21860 

11900 
1890 
2  18S0 
2  1870 
21860 

11900 
1890 
2  1880 
21870 
21860 

=  1900 

1890 

1880 

21870 

21860 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1860 

1900 

1890 

1880 

21870 

21860 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
21860 

1900 

1890 

1880 

21870 

21860 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
21860 

15 

978, 575 

38 

36,067 

1,845 

394,871 

601 

988 

256 

34 

993 

565 

12,036 

SI 

82 
83 

24 
5 

674, 869 
72,900 

64 
5 

46,224 
3,150 

1,495 
179 

255,253 
27,260 

317 
19 

735 
105 

443 
55 

5 

1,364 
136 

191 

2,860 
512 

S^i 

86 

6 

345,212 

15 

13,520 

359 

73,872 

73 

1.58 

128 

785 

10 

5,620 

8n 

S9 

40 

::::;:::-;.:- 

91 

92 

16 
4 

928,887 
121,494 

46 
11 

39,467 
7,860 

1,208 
338 

200,662 
64,092 

217 
43 

682 
221 

309 
74 

1,078 
555 

235 

9? 

2 



960 

91 

1 

9'i 

% 

97 

9n 



99 



101 

3 

4 

2,700 
216,950 

4 
511 

1,680 
72, 980 

4 

113 

:;:::::::::::::::! 

12 

15,300 

228 

170 

581 

10^ 

in-1 

lO"! 

lOfi 

107 

3 

94,373 

3 

2,028 

409 

62, 810 

22 

137 

250 

2 

128 

1 

f09 



1 

110 

::::::;::;;:;::;i ..i 

1 

IV 

3 

106,600 

6 

9,150 

278 

42,691 

20 

258 

169 

1,800 

111 

llT 

1 

::::::::.. i 

llfi 

117 
118 

6 
7 
1 

378,378 

251,732 

5,000 

26 
5 

24, 110 
2,520 

719 

280 

4 

117,718 

91,499 

700 

159 

107 

2 

454 
173 

106 
2" 

2 

11 

728 
137 

1 

13 

is' 

4 

3,610 
3,081 

1''0 



1'>1 

122 
123 

1?4 

129 
146 
65 
23 
13 

10,792,485 

5,190,366 

534,799 

36,300 

21,900 

592 
293 

719, 315 
315,860 

11,061 

8,076 

2,862 

143 

46 

2,885,045 

1,716,340 

330,210 

24,390 

12,228 

2,535 

1,115 

339 

50 

33 

7,400 

6,66S 

2,093 

89 

13 

1,126 

293 

430 

4 

92 
60 
7 

1 

10,261 

6,056 

1,609 

68 

1,925 

72' 

2 

5' 

42 
11 

32,898 

22,152 

1.660 

12 

■m 

i'>fi 

j 

1'>7 

24 
44 
23 

5 
11 

32 
10 
11 

1,067,937 

1,071,007 

187,000 

9,400 

10,900 

2,135,916 
560, 917 
147,389 

56 
67 

55,386 
68,134 

1,413 

1,831 

745 

22 

36 

2,509 
815 
962 

354,369 

398,496 

94,858 

5,250 

9,264 

680, 129 
173, 909 
92,324 

154 

107 

53 

16 

23 

498 
131 
80 

1,229 

1,649 

574 

30 
75 
118 

10 
8 

1,147 

170 
4' 

5' 

30 
10 

3,920 

2,456 

60 

128 

1<X) 

Michigan 

Indiana 

WLsconsin 

Illinois 

1,674 
368 

7 

no 

6 

1?1 

13 

1,873 
683 
706 

132 

201 
33 

187, 674 
31,435 

138 

1 

176 

28 
14 
4 

,    2,828 

678 

521 

588 

6,686 

3,680 

920 

l^-t 

9 

I't'i 

1 

1SH 

I 

137 

9 
6 
6 

2,728,306 

716,989 

45,000 

4,060 

103 
27 

201,085 
29, 721 

2,016 

935 

284 

26 

703, 129 

177,798 

24,700 

540 

1,032 

281 

26 

7 

874 

693 

201 

18 

110 

61 

57 

1 

27 
18 

633 

670 

183 

9 

272 

8,500 
7,392 

5 

1 

I'lO 

142 
143 

27 
23 
4 

2,6.58,299 

1,214,727 

10,010 

125 
67 

150,209 
70,580 

2,722 

2,239 

28 

600,495 

379, 144 

8,364 

341 

282 

6 

1,756 

1,852 

20 

625 

105 

2 

16 
6 

2,832 

1,138 

19 

451 

8,694 
2,800 

4 

llfi 

147 

14 

35 

14 

3 

1,580,990 

1,254,676 

105,800 

1,800 

46 
74 

66,720 
78,301 

1,805 

1,804 

707 

27 

494,285 

466,808 

92,385 

1,800 

417 

279 

160 

4 

1.233 

1,479 

471 

21 

15S 
46 
76 

2 

7 

14 

3 

1 

1,975 

1,525 

433 

19 

282 

3,480 

5.824 

680 

12 

148 
149 

48 

1 

11 

ItO 

ISl 



1  Included  in  "  all  other  Southern  stales.' 
=  No  establishments  reported. 


WOOL. 

BY  STATES,  ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY,  1850  TO  1900-Gontinued. 


181 


Miscellane- 
ous ex- 
penses. 


Cost  of  ma- 
terials used. 


$346,408 
62,760 


119, 198 


3.5, 920 
3,097 


38, 887 


72, 631 
10, 605 


82,798,219 

459, 808 

1,700 


10, 270 


3,422 


69,602 
33,166 


878, 706 
402, 873 


99, 411 
68,  il91 


265, 124 
57,901 


108,442 
70, 437 


223,216 
102, 727 


126, 332 
68, 123 


797,818 


604, 027 
66, 925 


237,622 


767,430 
70, 697 


5,900 
248, 950 


103,893 


58,202 


252, 372 

160,091 

1,700 


6,248,504 

3, 680, 462 

919,  639 

47, 727 

21,715 


807, 673 

914,085 

241,. 583 

10, 3C0 

13, 515 

1,459,378 
285, 057 
226, 627 


1,200,483 

408, 195 

103,280 

2,842 


1,176,146 

899,371 

9,125 


1,261,242 

9.80,780 

290.  895 

5,775 


PBIKCIPAL  MATERIALS— QUANTITIES   CONSUMED. 


Wool  in  coiiilitioii  purchased. 


Total 
(pounds). 


58,000 
56,500 


1,000 


1,000 


Toreign 
(pounds) . 


Domestic 
(ponnds) . 


48,000 
56,600 


Yarns  not  made  in  mill. 


Merino 
(pounds). 


Woolen 
(pounds.) 


353, 680 


2,400 


58,000 
56,500 


5, 148, 044 

3, 100, 876 

240,000 

600 

6,500 


140, 500 
359,000 


6,  .500 

1,434,998 
247, 081 
180,000 


1,214,122 
1,095,253 


799,357 
581, 042 


1,. 514, 400 

.818,500 

60,000 

600 


10,000 


647, 515 
617,7.58 


2,000 

200 

1,400 


2,000 


Worsted 
(pounds). 


72, 600 


2,600 


1,180 


15,000 
4,000 


32,905 
2.5,000 


523, 216 
568, 768 


76,394 
20,000 


48,000 
56,500 


4,500,629 

2,483,118 

240, 000 

600 


Raw  cotton 

and 

cotton  warp 

and  yarn  not 

made  in  mill 

(pounds) . 


20,000 


Animal  hair 
and  fur  and 

noils  not 
made  in  mill 

(pounds). 


16,  .584, 551 
2, 380,  475 


350,000 


551, 811 


125, 500 
355,000 


1,402,093 
222, 081 
180,000 


690,906 
626,495 


722, 963 
561,042 


1,614,400 

818,  .500 

60,000 

600 


202,934 


200 
1,400 


781,887 

2, 328,  .534 

749, 786 

43, 176 


50,000 


178,866 


15,000 


109, 643 


10,500 


64,823 
861,313 
241,850 

10, 600 


205, 029 
121,607 
154,600 


1,308,651 

383, 626 

29,650 


74,098 

76, 300 

2,576 


276,286 

8.86,786 

7,100 


109, 600 

261,020 

226,800 

6,100 


455,569 

145, 857 

3,850 


238, 822 

19,400 

5,000 


5,995 
3,342 
5,200 


277, 930 

84,047 

700 


215, 700 
72,480 
10,000 


6, 234, 312 


3, 430, 982 
277, 000 


1,737,039 


3,707,218 
486, 340 


Shoddy 

not  made  in 

mill 

(pounds). 


1,099,000 


545,400 


370,000 
651,735 


9,852,986 

2,668,199 

201,500 

16,300 

4,000 


482, 372 

296,392 

6,000 

4,' 666 

1, 919, 138 

332,9.55 

41,300 


1, 118, 533 

292,826 

30,000 


1,656,901 
267,906 


4, 140, 150 

1,348,620 

112, 900 

100 


150, 007 
140,000 


90,694 


Value  of 
products. 


S5, 031, 336 

973, 136 

2,600 

ii'.m 


314,228 
54,922 


39,813 
140,000 


485, 800 
338,642 
10,000 


5,063 


3,605 


300,000 
25,762 


70,000 
6,000 


154, 304 
30,937 
10,000 


92,763 
143, 572 


5,2C.5 
ll.l'.tiO 


64,833 
131,213 


17,500 


111,. 500 
27,920 


1,498,066 


1,023,150 
126, 875 


392, 237 


1,230,801 
166,8.50 


11,700 
395, 150 


190,726 


151,180 


491,932 

337,506 

2,600 


12, 143, 150 

7,240,031 

1, 555, 123 

95,387 

46,680 


1,676,286 

1,635,948 

418, 825 

23,100 

31,800 

2,791,257 
701,322 
377,249 


2,424,304 

827, 104 

158, 200 

5, 450 


2,486,813 

1,636,641 

18, 817 


2,145,429 

1,990,035 

484,124 

8,800 


74 
73 
74 
76 
76 

67 
78 
79 
80 
81 

82 
83 
84 
85 
86 

87 


90 
91 

92 
93 
94 
95 
96 

97 

98 

99 
100 
101 

102 
103 
104 
105 
106 

107 
108 
109 
110 
111 

112 
113 
114 
115 
116 

117 
118 
119 
120 
121 

122 
123 
124 
125 
126 

127 
128 
129 
130 
131 

132 
133 
134 
135 
136 

137 
138 
139 
140 
141 

142 
143 
144 
145 
146 

147 
148 
149 
1.50 
151 


aincludes  establishments,  distributed  as  follows:  190(^Alabama,  1:  Louisiana,  1;  Mississippi,  l^Texas,  1;  West  Virginia.  2. 
Virginia,  2;  West  Virginia,  2.    1880— West  Virginia,  1. 


1890— Florida,  1;  Kentucky,  2; 


182 


MANUFACTURES. 

T.uii.i:  -H.— HUSIKKV  AND  KNIT  GOUlAS;  CO.Mi'AKATIVK  SIMMARY 


STATES. 

Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

• 

Capital. 

S.M„VllTEri  OFFI- 
CIALS, n.EEKS,  ETC. 

AVERAGE   NUMBER  OF  WAGE-EARXERS   AND 

TOTAL   WAGES. 

MACHINEKV. 

Nmu- 
ber. 

Salaries. 

Total. 

Men. 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Wom- 
en, 
16  years 
and 
over. 

Chil- 
dren 

under 
16 

years. 

Knit- 
ting 
ma- 
chines. 

1 

Spin- 
dles. 

.\ver- 
age 

num- 
ber. 

Wages. 

Cards. 

Comb- 
ing ma- 
chines. 

.Sewing 

ma- 
chines. 

Looms. 

152 
153 
154 
155 
156 

157 

158 
159 
160 
ini 

162 
163 
161 

16.T 

166 

167 

168 
169 
170 
171 

172 
173 
174 
175 

176 

177 

178 
179 
180 
181 

Western     9tate.s — 
Continued. 
Minnesota 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
11860 

21900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

11860 

21900 
1890 
1880 
1870 
1,S60 

1900 
1890 
11880 
11870 
11860 

1900 
=  1890 
11.880 
11870 
1 1.860 

1900 

1890 
11880 
11870 
11860 

8 
3 
1 

1 

484,004 

247,498 

8,000 

1.50 

21 
10 

26,657 
15,356 

293 

119 

12 

1 

77,589 
31,000 
2,819 

51 
17 
8 
1 

206 

102 

4 

36 

3 

476 
182 
10 

94 

1,418 

2 

1 
1 

' 

Missouri 

Utah 

3 
3 

2 

8,950 
2,200 
5,200 

2 

820 

7 
6 
6 

1,730 

460 

1,200 

1 
3 
3 

6 
3 
3 

14 

7 



t 

i 

7 
4 
7 
2 

5 
5 

S3, 247 
29,400 
15,700 
11,000 

52,  .5,50 
33,370 

8 

6,188 

117 
118 
61 
10 

91 
65 

28,289 
19,300 
15,600 
2,964 

21,599 
13,950 

1 
3 
19 
10 

15 

116 

114 
41 

145 
68 
33 

1 
1 

L  . 

1 :::i 

13 

5 

5,260 
3,070 

72 
00 

4 
5 

101 
73 

20 

California 

.\11  other  West- 
ern stales.  3 

3 

89,160 

10 

12,160 

79 

27,880 

6 

66 

7 

82 

43 

1 

i 

9 
7 

145, 323 
49,085 

17 
10 

14,294 
9,255 

133 
144 

25,570 
44,216 

21 
16 

91 
128 

21 

1 

187 

87 

5 

200 

.. 

\ " 

'  No  establishments  reported. 
-  InelinU'd  in  "  all  other  Western  states." 
^Includes  establishments,  distributed  as  fn 
rado.  2;  Kansas,  1;  Nebra-'ka.  1;  Washington,  1. 


I'XiO — Idaho,!;  Iowa,  2;  Kansas,  1;  Missouri,  2;  Montana,  1;  Nebraska,!;  Oregon,  1.  !890 — California,  2:  Colo 


WOOL. 

BY  8TATKS,  ARRANGED  GEOGRAPHICALLY,  l,SoO-]900— Continued. 


183 


Miscellane- 
ous ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials used. 

ralNCIPAI.   MATKRIALS— QUANTITIES   CONSUMED. 

Value  of 
product-s. 

Wool  in  condition  purchased. 

Yarns  not  made  in  mill. 

Raw  cotton 

and 

cotton  warp 

and  yarn  not 

made  in  mill 

(pounds). 

Animal  hair      ,:.i.    ,j  . 

Total 
(pounds). 

Foreign 
(pounds). 

Domestic 
(pounds). 

Merino 
(pounds). 

Woolen 
(pounds). 

Worsted 
(pounds). 

and  fur  and 
noils  not 

made  in  mil 
(pounds). 

not  made  in 

mill 

(pounds). 

831,470 
24,345 

S197, 184 

87, 662 

5,000 

200 

37,667 

37,667 

30,000 

71,043 

64,000 

5,000 

200 

54,098 

41,000 

400 

339, 2.'?2 
42,000 

305 

8410,092 

183,743 

10,000 

500 

^w 



154 

155 

:::::::;;;::::::::::::::::: 

156 

157 

419 

1,975 
1,5&4 
1,610 

1,275 

1,536 

300 

3,000 

6,763 
2,908 
2,887 

158 

1 

159 

1 

600 

160 

161 

! 

16? 

3,803 

30,524 
41,675 
27,040 
8,200 

24,184 
25,  475 

30,325 
36,600 
24,400 

37,600 
11,300 
15,600 

81,445 
8.5,000 
54.650 
14,880 

66,357 
53,660 

16^ 

4,. 500 

161 

165 

166 

4,577 
2,146 

3,000 

3,000 

11,625 
31,375, 

10,450 
2,500 

15,700 
500 

167 

168 
169 

170 

171 

10,570 

71,751 

4,868 

14,481 

48,487 

30,020 

126,980 

17? 

173 

174 



175 

::::::::;;::;::;;::::::;::; 

176 

9,564 
3,981 

80,463 
47,338 

4.000 

4,000 

29,000 
16, 678 

1,600 
15,000 

180,940 
36,800 

2,400 

115,633 
125,470 

177 

178 

179 

180 
.81 

1                        1 

184 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  42.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS: 


31 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Finn  iind  limited  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

Miscellaneous 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implement^ 

Ca.sli  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  ofticials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Olficers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number  

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  lime  during  the  year 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number ' " 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

.\verage  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number , 

Wages , 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during 
each  month: 
Men.  16  years  and  over — 

January 

February  

March 

April , 

May , 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

January 

February  

March  .". 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January ." 

February  

March  '. 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August '. 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Spinners — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women, 16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Knitters- 
Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Children,  under  16  years 

Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women, '16  years  and  over 

Ch ildren,  under  16  years '. 

Machinery: 

Sets  of  woolen  cards 

Combing  machines,  number 

Of  .\merican  manufacture 

Of  foreign  manufacture , 

Spindles,  number 

Spinning — 

Woolen 

Worsted 

Cotton 


United  States. 


921 

353 

252 

312 

4 

$81,860,604 

83,367,762 

89,556,726 

824,036,431 

844, 899, 685 

776 

2,809 
83,124,798 


$763, 316 

2,370 
82,361,482 

1,965 
$2,188,207 

405 
8173,275 

95, 726 

71,829 

83,  :)87 

$24,358,627 

21,154 
$8, 890, 728 

53,665 
$14, 243, 808 

8,668 
$1,224,091 


19,995 
20, 902 
21, 310 
21,569 
21,718 
21,393 
21,052 
21,033 
21,183 
21,  .565 
21,430 
20,698 

51,125 
52,  499 
54, 352 
55,419 
54,873 
53,865 
52,485 
52,444 
53,427 
54, 6.59 
51,468 
53, 174 

8,510 
8,608 
8,820 
8,973 
9,053 
8,658 
8,394 
8,474 
8,566 
8,546 
8,753 
8,661 


1,624 
273 


4,615 
11,482 
1,501 

2,427 

16,502 

960 

1,161 
15 
8 


290,366 

14,064 

205,742 


California. 


889, 100 


$4,000 
817,910 
$67,250 


10 
$12,160 


2 
$4,800 


8 
$7,360 


$6,560 
1 


94 
58 
79 

$27,880 

6 
83,200 

66 
823,  .500 

7 
81,180 


Connecticut. 


Delaware. 


$6, 149, 338 

8160,000 

$632,590 

81,306,134 

$4,050,614 

12 

101 
$159, 300 

31 
$69, 0.50 

70 
$90,250 

60 
$84,864 

10 
85,386 

3,469 

2,978 

3,243 

$1,131,078 

%6 
8447,414 

2.181 
$666,597 

% 
$17,067 


938 

980 


945 
966 
974 
9*4 
985 


2.062 
2,139 
2,185 
2,199 
2,227 
2,189 
2,111 
2,182 
2,237 
2,230 
2,226 
2,182 

89 
91 
97 
97 

101 
99 
95 
99 
96 
92 

100 


82 
348 


134 

9 

o 

4 

79,536 

32, 876 
6,000 
39,  .500 


$298,511 

$9,000 

825,803 

$162, 785 

8100, 923 


19 
$14,686 

8 
$9,200 

11 
85,486 

6 
$3,386 

5 
$2,100 

713 
511 

582 
$128,103 

85 
$25,390 

408 
$84,307 

89 
$13,406 


80 

77 
87 
85 
88 
84 
85 
85 
88 
88 
88 
85 

424 
399 
430 
405 
392 
367 
370 
356 
414 
449 
448 
440 

73 
84 
95 

87 
88 
87 
77 
85 
99 
97 
99 
94 


207 
29 


30 
123 


Georgia. 


$928,887 
$21,836 
$85,012 
$416,329 
$405, 710 


46 
$39,467 

11 
811,907 

35 
$27,500 


$26,780 


$780 

1,518 
1,153 

1,208 
$200,662 

217 
$64,148 

682 
$104,754 

309 
$31,760 


194 
200 
208 
242 
222 
210 
219 
222 
221 
223 
222 
222 

655 
662 
678 
723 
718 
685 
663 
669 
691 
692 
677 
674 

310 
316 
823 

326 
322 
304 
280 
293 
802 
300 
316 
315 


45 
46 
18 

19 
149 
12 


WOOL. 


185 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1900. 


1 — ' 

lUinois. 

Indiana. 

Maine. 

Maryland. 

Massachusetts. 

Michigan. 

Minnesota. 

New  Hampshire. 

14 

7 

3 

4 

54 

32 

8 

22 

1 

7 

1 

18 

5 

3 
1 

8 

4 

2 
3 

2 

i" 

2 

i' 

9 

4 

5 

6 

3 

27 

28 

4 

8 
$2,526,286 

4 

5 

6 

81,630,990 

$2,728,306 

89,000 

8311,1508 

86,288,672 

$2,13.5,916 

$484,004 

$28, 200 

876, 200 

8:i,ooo 

$369, 094 
8711,522 

890,922 
$194,090 
$495, 552 

$29,000 
$78,000 
$120,8.53 

$208,756 
8374,085 
8656, 251 

7 

8167  387 

8188, 602 

$8  083 

8521,250 

8375,  771 

S4,'466' 

894,789 

$1,268^,522 

$814,153 

$2,087,733 

84,600 

$205, 636 

$3,939,534 

$l,a6.5,352 

$266, 151 

$1,286,194 

10 

6 

6 

2 

36 

4 

1 

21 
826,657 

7 
$18,600 

14 
88,167 

10 

16 

61 
$68,011 

11 
$17,650 

40 
$40,361 

31 

11 

12 
13 

14 
15 

16 
17 

18 
19 

20 
21 

22 

46 

103 

28 

166 

201 

866, 720 

8201,085 

814,618 
8 

$212,753 
29 

8187,674 
22 

12 

18 

^ 

826,500 
34 

$43,879 
86 

^y.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'.'. 

84,179 
20 

$50, 260 

833,920 
179 

137 

$40,220 
26 

$167, 206 

810, 339 

$162, 493 

8163,654 
124 

84 

19 

106 

834. 100 

$156,  816 

$10, 300 

8148  104 

$130,358 
55 

$6,757 

4 
$1,400 

380 

$37,214 

9 
83,147 

2,974 

8 

1 

1 

31 

86, 120 

8390 

$39 

$14, 389 

$23,296 
3,040 

1,934 

2,165 

41 

765 

7,690 

1,572 

1,273 

36 

609 

5,715 

2,071 

194 

2,040 

1,805 

2.016 

37 

682 

6,667 

2.509 

293 

2,  492 

24 

8494,285 

$703, 129 

$7,425 

$119.4.56 

82,091,2.58 

8,580, 129 

$77,589 

8790,  558 

28 

417 

1,032 

4 

60 

1,658 

498 

51 

890 

26 

8178, 298 

8518,724 

81,300 

823,  715 

$752,031 

8172,085 

$18,553 

$339,032 

27 

1,233 

874 

SI 

526 

4,549 

1,873 

206 

1,514 

28 

$293, 337 

8175,  9-25 

$6,000 

889,754 

$1,263,543 

8391,345 

$.63,876 

$434,417 

29 

1.55 

110 

2 

96 

460 

138 

36 

88 

30 

$22,660 

$8,480 

$125 

85,987 

$75,684 

$16,699 

$5,160 

$17, 109 

31 

429 

1,044 

4 

62 

1,681 

396 

36 

783 

32 

430 

1,029 

3 

64 

1,666 

443 

41 

847 

33 

430 

1,045 

6 

65 

1,673 

479 

39 

884 

34 

431 

1,027 

6 

66 

1,653 

619 

44 

902 

35 

406 

1,038 

6 

60 

1,696 

514 

51 

900 

36 

406 

1,039 

6 

66 

1,617 

533 

68 

914 

37 

4Q» 

1,029 

2 

65 

1,611 

529 

68 

888 

38 

405 

1,043 

S 

54 

1,616 

563 

69 

869 

39 

405 

1,035 

2 

61 

1,677 

663 

60 

893 

40 

407 

1,017 

3 

59 

1,696 

662 

68 

926 

41 

423 

1,022 

3 

61 

1,713 

471 

64 

964 

42 

424 

1,016 

3 

64 

1,709 

417 

64 

912 

43 

1,063 

878 

29 

545 

4,657 

1,688 

110 

1,295 

44 

1,171 

829 

29 

649 

4,745 

1,755 

121 

1,354 

45 

1,261 

888 

29 

660 

4,808 

1,854 

138 

1,451 

46 

1,265 

911 

29 

652 

4,837 

2,016 

177 

1,495 

47 

1,246 

846 

29 

491 

4,322 

1,989 

218 

1,542 

48 

1,246 

893 

29 

603 

4,311 

1,857 

242 

1,556 

49 

1,261 

917 

32 

614 

4,109 

1,854 

264 

1,555 

50 

1,249 

877 

32 

618 

4, 121 

1,913 

264 

1,549 

51 

1,258 

851 

32 

616 

4,347 

1,985 

259 

1,552 

52 

1,268 

850 

32 

610 

4,636 

2,010 

257 

1,586 

53 

1,265 

880 

32 

626 

4,820 

1,830 

241 

1,636 

54 

1,264 

869 

32 

638 

4,872 

1,727 

182 

1,601 

55 

149 

94 

2 

112 

454 

137 

36 

80 

66 

166 

94 

2 

111 

471 

137 

36 

85 

57 

166 

98 

2 

109 

475 

137 

36 

92 

58 

186 

115 

2 

112 

484 

137 

36 

90 

69 

156 

112 

3 

95 

467 

138 

36 

89 

60 

156 

118 

3 

100 

463 

138 

36 

89 

61 

166 

112 

3 

91 

446 

138 

36 

92 

62 

166 

121 

8 

92 

4.67 

138 

36 

88 

63 

156 

118 

2 

84 

449 

138 

36 

88 

64 

166 

n2 

3 

83 

437 

139 

36 

88 

65 

156 

112 

3 

86 

457 

139 

36 

86 

66 

156 

114 

2 

83 

465 

138 

36 

86 

67 

37 

15 

88 

63 

1 

66 

68 
69 

12 

27 

1 

3 

3 

6 

70 

144 

124 

14 

379 

307 

15 

261 

354 

16 

71 
72 
73 

694 

208 

37 

496 

774 

93 

27 

26 

26 

134 

68 

18 

227 

73 

'_' 

104 

74 
75 
76 

524 

495 

21 

120 

1,676 

24 

28 

64 

352 

110 

7 

22 

27 

11 

39 
3 

3 

74 

77 

78 

3 

79 

::::::::::::;::::::: 

80 

3.'486" 

8,500 





i68,*938' 

6,686 

i,'4i8' 

1,248 

20,136 

81 

3,480 

8,400 

8,682 

3,500 

90,780 

5,284 

82 

960 

83 

\\\" ....../   .'."' 

s'sib' 

84 

186 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  42.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS; 


100 
101 

102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 

110 
HI 

112 
113 
114 

115 

116 
117 
118 
119 
120 

121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 

128 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 

138 
139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 
148 
149 
150 
151 
152 
153 
154 
155 
156 
157 
158 
159 
160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 

166 

167 
168 
169 
170 
171 
172 
173 
174 
175 
176 


Machinery— Continued. 

Spindles,  number — Continued. 
Doubling — 

\V<  .o  k-n 

NN'orsted 

Cotton 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number . 
Narrow,  under  50-inch  reed  space — 

C)n  woolen  goods 

Hand- 
On  woolen  or  worsted  goods 

Braiders,  number 

Sewing  machines,  number 

Knitting  machines,  number 

Spring-beard  needle — 

Flat,  ribbed 

Flat,  plain 

F'ull  fashioned,  flat,  ribbed 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  plain 

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Circular,  hosiery,  automatic 

Lamb,  and  other  variety,  hand 

Latcli  needle — 

Flat,  ribbed 

Flat,  plain 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  ribbed 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  plain  

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Circular,  hosiery,  automatic 

Lamb,  and  other  variety,  hand 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 


Total. 


Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto  included 

Contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Total  co=t 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc.,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hair  and  fur — 

Mohair,  pounds 

Cost 

Buffalo,  cow,  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials,  not  made  in  mill — 

Shoddv,  pounds 

Co.st 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicufia  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Tops,  pounds 

Cost 

Yarns,  not  made  in  mill — 

Woolen,  pounds 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Merino,  pounds 

Cost -. 

Cotton ,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Cost 

,Tute,  ramie,  or  other  vegetable  fiber,  pounds : 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  product 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost  

Oil  for  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuffs 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Cotton  yarn  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Products: 

Total  value 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale — 

Woolen  varn,  all  wool,  pounds 

Value 

Worsted  yarn  and  tops,  pounds 

Value 

Woolen  or  worsted  yam,,union  <  r  merino,  cotton  mixed,  pounds 

Value 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds 

Value 

Waste,  pounds 

Value 


United  State.s. 


3,613 

7,130 

956 

133 

130 

3 

128 

24,  -riih 

89,047 

1,691 
1,432 
65 
1,069 
1,467 
6, 753 
1,700 
336 

1,655 
1,936 
358 
869 
17, 490 
6,760 
39, 9?3 
5,473 

S6, 599, 865 

«24,250 

8286, 780 

S4, 747, 007 

$1,141,828 

661,071,859 

3, 446, 838 
S1.34t,397 
14..=«T.069 
83.917,738 
13, 031,  308 

631,199 

844,953 

330, 920 

811, 175 

99, 518 

49,4.51,301 

83,561,592 

3.  770, 626 

W&?,792 

5, 276,  454 

81, 487.^7 

131,  635 

839,832 

100 

$25 

133,614 

892, 103 

2, 621,  893 

81,257,587 

5, 823, 215 

84,865,304 

1.981,484 

8642,535 

131,820,068 

822,204,918 

162, 424 

$669,236 

103, 823 

$277, 665 

71,478 

853,588 

44,682 

$57, 677 

83, 932,  624 

5, 903.  557 

$204,485 

3%,  278 

891,315 

81, 023, 161 

8738,039 

$131, 503 

$312, 214 

83, 236,  699 

8384,895 

40,845.889 

$95, 482,  .566 

79,027 

838,307 

51,202 

$36,303 

4,300 

$2,080 

2,419,282 

$422,100 

385,863 

831.267 


California. 


43 


6 
C8 

$10, 570 

$1,800 

$540 

88,230 


$71,7.51 


14. 481 

813. 802 

48,  487 

$36. 939 

4,868 

84362 

30,020 

$9,046 

203 

$1,583 

1,076 

$3,179 

657 

$490 


$200 

$100 

$1,850 

$1,400 


Connecticut. 


$126, 980 


960 
200 


2,662 

420 

19 

6 

542 

45 

618 

28 


237 
44 

580 
50 

$205, 6.58 
$12, 370 
$23,990 

$154, 698 
$14, 600 

$2,202,640 

1,181,663 
8479,436 

1,291,104 
8344,178 

1, 722, 259 


4,588 
2,068,413 
$176, 729 

27, 517 
$4,362 
493, 216 
$117,935 
3,175 
$1,352 


12, 066 
$7,188 

9,000 

$5, 455 

233,282 

8224, 648 

29, 162 

$24, 116 

991,497 

8250,011 

901 

$4,726 

12, 749 

830,974 

3,000 

$3,000 


I 
Delaware.  Georgia, 


346 
674 


243 


341 
5 


$32,471 

$1,875 

8639 

$29, 6.57 


$209, 0+S 


235 

1,078 


262 

15 

7.59 


872, 631 
$910 
$5,353 
$55,496 
$10, 872 

8757,430 


1,099.817  j 
8167,700 


1,180 
$U3 

3,707,218 
8624,311 


$38,074 
605, 522 
$23,  7.57 

92, 183 
$13,057 
840.094 
$44,644 

82, 959 

$15,042 

$327, 171 

823, 732 

333,929 

$4,043,977 


826, 522 
3,800 
$190 


87,200 
$4,595 


81,825 
8200 
8816 


8429,055 


$55, 074 

5,852 

$234 

60 

$25 

812, 063 

810.  458 

$436 

86,080 

839.546 

88,790 


$1,230,801 


25,372 
$765 


WOOL. 


187 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Illinois. 


Indiana. 


282 
1,975 

1 

2 


25 


GO 
400 
391 
152 
697 
317 

8126,332 

$14,132 

87,204 

8104,996 


81,261,242 


1,514,400 

8205,760 

764, 400 


117 
322,500 
823, 125 

111,500 
818, 728 
1.50,000 
818,000 


109,600 

$70. 475 

216,700 

8186,400 

10.  -500 

$3, 700 

8,817,650 

$571,961 

5,600 

830, 000 

7.000 

823, 000 


$1,660 

200.000 

83,000 

4,100 

$1,200 

$24,200 

$18,028 

$9,512 

$4,080 

$25,  «24 

$22, 599 

$2,145,429 

Maine. 


272 
633 


18 


6 
104 
151 
114 
130 

$108,442 


$8,373 
$100, 069 


81,200,483 

623, 216 
$75, 832 
690,906 
$129, 323 
538,081 


300,000 

89.000 

2, 674 

173,038 

812,  585 


92, 763 
815, 037 
137,515 
828,  618 


6.995 
85, 626 
15,000 
$3, 161 
945, 495 
$184,  487 


1,000 
$1,200 


$671,305 

108, 875 

$3,455 

8,490 

$1,926 

$19,550 

817,725 

$.510 

$8,535 

$6,476 

$6, 232 

115,000 

82.42-1.301 


Maryland. 


Massachusetts. 


70 
612 


126 

$6,  389 

$200 

858 

$1,531 

$4,600 

810,810 


100 

454 

58 


$21,981 

81,300 

$8.51 

$16,943 
$2. 887 

$347, 250 


18,000 
$10,200 


38, 488 

816, 905 

14,663 

88,911 

12,409 

84,891 

1,011,889 

$214, 709 


$50 


$100 
$10 
8210 


8240 
829, 075 


879, 560 

9,000 

$439 

115 

$53 

$4,627 

$3,167 


$1,300 

$10, 677 

$2,011 


$514, 093 


1,063 
$609 


6,500 
676 


1,856 
6,003 

134 

36 
2 
74 
76 
829 
21 


11a 


2 

6 
1,006 

211 
2, 130 

294 

8528, 103 
$18, 680 
$56,  519 
$340,0,64 
$113,950 

82,910,640 

2,000 

81,000 

1,144,940 

82.52,252 

671,387 

21,908 

10,915,968 

$781,259 

65,075 

$9,797 

204,766 

$68,796 
k'cm 

83,400 

128, 631 

$63, 321 

411,468 

$380, 425 

44, 604 

$27,794 

2,610,885 

8628, 635 

10,114 

$31,816 

20, 670 

804,044 

678 


Michigan. 


$181,259 

260,776 

87,6.82 

12,508 

$1,602 

$121,. 525 

863, 119 

$8,595 

$22,834 

$163, 884 

$23,923 

8,565,495 

$6, 620, 257 

1,880,670 

8336, 887 

172,979 

86,969 


440 
2 


2,828 


5 

141 


Minnesota. 


92 

265 

12 

62 

38 
3 

46' 

521 
409 
380 
870 

8265, 124 

810, 227 

89, 912 

8209,  S.52 
835, 133 

$1,459,378 

32,905 
$6,337 

1,402,093 
$294, 169 

1,382,684 


605 

$45 

361 

182,467 

$16,727 

154, 304 

829,266 

83, 179 

821,683 

3,100 


206, 029 

$99,098 

238, 822 

8220,029 

178,  .866 

$67,018 

1,736.671 

8360, 361 

5,271 

819,004 

1,263 


4,000 

$3,400 

$148. 411 

225, 480 

$8,403 

14,400 

$3, 168 

$32, 1.54 

$26,099 

$J,049 

89,  "12 

874,2.50 

$14,299 

154.626 

82,791,257 


New  Hampshire. 


94 
476 


76 
160 
183 

37 

$31,470 

$899 

81,297 

$29,111 
8163 

8197, 184 


37,667 

813, 937 

37,667 


163 
84,264 
$6,240 


24,950 

$2,495 

306 


71,043 
$26, 131 

.64,098 
$45,419 

30,000 

$9, 300 
254, 968 
$62,271 


520 

$1,482 


$5,525 

40,420 

81,670 

1,229 

$202 

$3,625 

$6, 806 

$59 

$968 
$5,246 
$6,848 


$110. 092 


348 
23,174 

1 

4 
1 
27 
80 
73 
78 
1 

11 
123 

275 

1,015 


90 
91 
92 
93 

94 
96 
96 
97 
98 
99 
100 
101 

102 
103 
104 
106 
106 


312   107 
21,014   108 


159  109 


8175,118 

811,626 

89, 892 

$139,  061 
$14, 540 

81,319,170 

109, 163 
848,474 
711, 108 
8156, 076 
441,685 


4,034 

1,942,884 

$177, 079 

668,  821 

8124,316 

128, 436 

847,641 


107, 426 

$32,936 

270,820 

$234, 096 

38.000 

$5. 220 

1,230.  ,881 

8229, 778 

2,000 

83,012 

300 

8210 


$34,493 

335,651 

$13,663 

26,315 

87,357 

$66, 640 

$26,679 

$2,490 

$12, 665 

877,521 

$18, 924 

467,998 

$2,  •592, 829 


110 
111 
112 
113 
114 

115 

116 
117 
118 
119 
120 

121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 

1 28 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 

138 

139 

140 

141 

142 

143 

144 

145 

146 

147 

148 

149 

150 

151 

152 

163 

154 

166 

156 

157 

158 

159 

160 

161 

162 

163 

164 

165 


5,000 
$2.7.56 


106 

167 
168 
169 
170 
171 
172 
173 
174 
176 
176 


188 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  42.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS: 


United  States. 


Product— Continued. 

Total  value— Continued. 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods- 
Hose  and  half  hose — 
Woolen— 
17gf  Half  hose,  dozens 

180  Value 

181  Hose,  dozens 

182  Value..     

Menno  or  mixed — 

183  Half  hose,  dozens 

184  Value 

185  Hose,  dozens 

186  Value 

Cotton— 

187  Half  hose,  dozens 

188  ,     Value 

189  Hose,  dozens 

190  Value 

191  Sillc  hose,  dozens 

192  Value 

Shirts  and  drawers— 

193  Merino  or  mixed,  dozens  -  

194  Value  

195  All  wool,  dozens 

196  Value.     

197  .\11  cotton,  dozens 

198  Value 

199  Silk  or  silk  mixed,  dozens 

200  Value 

Combination  suits— 

201  Merino  or  mixed,  dozens 

202  Value 

203  Al  1  wool,  dozens 

204  Value 

205  All  cotton,  dozens 

206  -  Value 

207  *  Silk  or  silk  mixed,  dozens 

208  Value 

209  Leggins  and  gaiters,  dozens 

210  Value 

211  Gloves  and  mittens,  dozens 

212  Value 

213  Hoods,  scarfs,  nubias,  etc.,  dozens 

214  Value v ", ....-.....-..-■ 

Cardigan  jackets,  sweaters,  athletic  goods,  fancy  jackets,  etc., 

215  dozens 

216  Value 

217  Shawls,  dozens 

218  Value 

219  Fancy  knit  goods,  wristers,  etc.,  dozens 

220  Value -  • 

221  Boot  and  shoe  linings,  square  yards 

222  Value 

223  Astrakhans,  square  yards 

224  Value 

228  Jersey  cloth  and  stockinette,  square  yards 

226  Value 

227  All  other  products 

228  Amount  received  for  contract  work 

Comparison  of  products. 

229  Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

230  Value  for  census  year 

231  Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

232  Number  of  establishments  reporting 

233  Total  horsepower 

Owned— 

Engines— 

234  Steam,  number 

235  Horsepower 

236  Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

237  Horsepower 

238  Water  wheels,  number 

239  Horsepower 

240  Electric  motors,  number 

241  Horsepower 

242  Other  power,  number  

243  Horsepower 

Rented  horsepower — 

244  Electric 

245  Other  kind 

246  Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower ;■••,■-;.• 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  pro- 
prietors and  firm  members: 

247  Total  number  of  establishments 

248  No  employees 

249  Under  5 

250  5  to  20 

251  21  to  60 

252  61  to  100 

253  101  to  2.W 

254  251  to  500 

265  601  to  1,000 

256  Over  1,000 


California. 


939, 957 

SI. 738, 635 

1,176,705 

S2, 267, 681 

9,57, 520 

$1,384,764 

436, 891 

S659, 959 

11,352,081 

S7, 906, 945 

15, 028, 173 

813,275,732 

12, 572 

8186,413 

2,675,416 

813, 293, 829 

1,085,046 

84,980,818 

12, 058. 431 

$26,882,902 

54.807 

S518, 045 

139, 994 

81,133,328 

9.501 

8201,667 

824, 632 

82,240,566 

12,728 

8116. 286 

71.038 

8248,523 

1,898,587 

$4,244,046 

343,429 

81,002,392 

594, 090 

83,498,837 

1.57, 622 

8328,  720 

284, 685 

$9,51,052 

10, 406, 440 

82, 205, 003 

664,779 

S332,  488 

4,4&S,911 

81,30.5,376 

83,774,671 

$273,931 

716 
885,163,464 
$74,917,674 

832 
58,087 


697 

39, 693 

28 

203 

206 

14,824 

71 

745 

1 

4 

1,303 
•1,315 


921 

5 

46 

165 

221 

175 

213 

74 

20 


Connecticut. 


20 

$80 

60 

$400 


100 

8500 

400 

$5,000 


100 
$4,000 


50 
$600 


50 
$500 


600 

$5,000 


1,200 
$24,000 


10 
$100 


886,800 


3 
$126,980 
$112,388 

1 
10 


167.213 

$224,634 

3,99IS 

$14,208 

12.5, 662 
$16:1,491 


25,811 
$70,014 

70,007 

$75, 717 

420 

$4,081 

298, 148 

$1,999,994 

58,  479 

$533, 6.51 

159, 169 

$446,073 

4,514 

$86,318 

898 
813, 450 


256 

$2,828 


Delaware. 


Geoigia. 


149, 233 
888,181 
341,612 
$228,575 


690 
$649 


1,350 

$4,650 

16,250 

$47,825 


50 
82,500  i 


983,295 


174,604 

884,807 

8144,257 

$26, 876 

24 

$4,003,802 
$3,542,686 

24 
3,108 


26 
2,230 


19 

871 


12,456 
$20,275 


28,867 
$72, 940 


794,345 
$430, 610 

400,427 
$321,058 


205,165 
$432,329 


20,000 
$40,000 


818,319 

7 
$429,055 
$364,845 

7 
246 


10 

81,055,797 

$863,775 

15 
567 


14 
B17 


1 
SO 

1 
10 


WOOL. 


189 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Illinois. 


117,517 
$18>i,232 

117,726 
$254,244 

58,334 

848,564 

58,333 

$66, 040 

1,193,1.50 

$600, 0.W 

469, 000 

$390, 000 


2,000 

$20,000 

16,679 

861,288 

2,000 
$10, 000 

6.300 
$72, 172 


Indiana. 


14 

$840 


506 

81,372 

200, 381 

$353,711 


5,310 
$59,  600 


11,000 
$2,600 


$15, 510 
8200 

14 
$2, 145, 429 
$1,839,794 

9 
902 


490 

1 

10 

1 

150 

6 

90 


150 
12 


31,696 
$61,327 

8.450 
$19,520 

15,300 

$25, 245 

7,450 

$12,292 


Maine. 


86. 121 

$9S.754 

198,836 

$304, 659 


3,  .547 

$35, 470 

13,664 

$163, 968 

17,742 

848,790 


45, 798 
887,281 


$1,566,998 


7 
$2,424,304 
$2,063,379 

7 
1,519 


11 

585 


6 
750 
14 
159 


25 
'25' 


Maryland. 


Massachusetts. 


100 
8500 


16,947 

$30, 304 

7, 215 

$12,627 


172,. 526 

$145,398 

26, 624 

$25, 155 


100 
$275 


1.000 
$13,  600 


100,000 
8300,000 


$14,800 

1 

$8,000 
88,500 


4 
8514,093 
8430,660 

4 
160 


6 
160 


32,009 
872, 444 

21,311 
$44,3.58 

48, 149 

$49, 225 

2, 160 

$3,240 

223, 420 

$321,076 

2,031,921 

$1,  3M,  865 

4,902 

$77, 112 

75, 121 

$284, 956 

64,3.56 

$.505,  379 

8.52. 167 

$2, 304, 872 

4,600 

$37, 830 

30,  ,514 

$231,433 

969 

$23, 897 

12, 069 

$96,406 

1,281 

$16, 200 

4,852 

$24,987 

61,440 

$110, 449 

1.060 

$6,  »M 

7,476 

$116, 756 

416 

$1,261 

10,841 

$26, 860 

905, 000 

$235,750 

24,000 

$11,843 

461,134 

$163, 051 

$32, 986 

$92,326 

44 

$6,412,114 
85,402,826 

46 
6,725 


46 

4,533 

1 

8 

11 

1,940 

3 

35 

1 

4 

103 
102 
56 


Michigan. 


54 
1 
6 
9 
16 
10 
6 
4 
1 
1 


Minnesota. 


New  Hampshire. 


28,542 
8101,709 

27,838 
8115,380 

43,140 

887, 046 

44,134 

$103,081 

173,232 

$152, 626 

128, 726 

$1.59,  .532 


2,  .543 

829, 567 

2, 998 

$61,977 

303.9.55 

$420,716 

368 

$11,597 

8,378 

$103,  .569 

1,650 

$66,418 

4.034 

$51,300 

686 

$27, 654 

3,271 

$12, 199 

298,  382 

$733, 954 


1,090 
$20, 020 


12, 074 
$12, 148 


111,300 

861,232 

20,000 

$5,000 

$463, 932 


27 
82,593,430 
$1,991,189 

30 

1,482 


22 

1,050 

4 

32 

4 

257 

4 

26 


3 

10 
5 
2 
1 


14,210 

$32, 830 

6,433 

$17,508 

10,283 
820, 175 

10,  .551 
817, 779 

3,137 

834,140 

51,3.55 

830,  .SI  3 


6,191 
841,531 

967 

813, 067 

2.272 

810, 60O 


4,943 
$75, 443 


495 

$1, 055 

100 

8400 

1,616 

$23, 225 


50 

$500 


$24,947 
8400 


8405, 517 
$353,820 


6 
2.50 

2 
13 

1 
40 


8559, 439 
8408, 301 


145,  .522 

$442, 271 

8,000 

876, 000 

46, 058 

8102, 116 

1,128 

$7,724 

792 
$7,128 


8,309 
865, 679 

6,014 
$24,056 

217,381  169 
8366,  .591   180 

567,510  i  181 
8805,811  I  182 

139,038  1  183 

8230,406  1  184 

108,899  185 

8103, 769  286 


187 
188 
189 
190 
191 
192 

193 
194 
195 
196 
197 
198 
199 
200 

201 
202 
203 
204 
205 
206 
207 
208 
209 
210 
211 
212 
213 
214 
216 

216 
217 
218 
219 
220 
221 
222 
223 
224 
225 
226 
227 
228 

229 
230 

231 

232 
233 


116 
$4,211 


4 

$40 


$10, 949 
$10, 700 

20 
$2,407,919 
$2,208,455 

20 
2,313 


10 
570 


27 
1,640 


234 
235 
236 
237 
238 
239 
240 
241 
242 
243 


28  244 . 
75  24S 
246 


22 
1 

"■4" 

2 
4 

6 

5 


247 
248 
249 
260 
251 
252 
253 
2M 
255 
266 


190 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  42.— HOSIERY  AND  KXIT  (xOODS: 


2 
3 

4 
5 

6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 

12 
13 

14 
15 

16 

17 

18 
19 

20 
21 

22 
23 
24 
25 

26 
27 

28 
29 

30 
31 


Number  of  estiiblishments 

Character  of  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

Incoriiuraled  company 

Miscellaneous 

Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Build  i  ngs 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

t'li^li  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  ollicials.  clerks,  etc.: 

Tota  1  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number  

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages , 

Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during 
each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over- 
January  , 

February 

March 

April 

May 


New  Jersey. 


June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

January  

Februfl  ry 

March 

April 

May 

Juiie 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November _ 

I  leoember 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January " 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

Septem  her 

October 

N  ovem  her 

December 

Skilled  operatives,  average  number: 
Spinners- 
Men   16  years  and  over 

Witnien,  16  years  and  over  . .. 

Ciiildreu.  under  16  vears 

Kniticrs- 

Men.  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over  ... 

Children,  uiider  16  years 

Finishers — 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Women,  16  years  and  over  ... 

Children,  under  16  years 

Machinery; 

Set.s  of  woolen  cards 

Combing  machines,  number 

Of  American  manufacture  . .. 

Of  foreign  manufacture 

Spindles,  number 

SpinnuiK— 

Woolen 

Wnrslcd 

(  otton 


SI,  973,1.82 

S.S3,  uoij 

S2.5U,  ,S.-,,-, 

$742,  CS7 

8890, 940 


61 
873, 043 

6 
817,000 

856, 043 

64 
855, 243 

1 

8.100 

2,079 

1,544 

1,841 

8446, 608 

602 
8187, 756 

1,087 
8241,974 

152 
$16, 878 


634 
594 
596 
563 
587 
588 
592 
592 
614 
633 
656 
671 

1,052 
1,061 
1,106 
1,045 
1,063 
1,078 
1,066 
1,067 
1,088 
1,123 
1,143 
1,154 

160 
163 
157 
112 
154 
149 
152 
156 
158 
137 
165 
162 


New  York. 


164 

157 
16 

35 

320 

43 


8,408 
8,408 


67 

86 

1 

830, 203,  G40 
81,194,978 
$3, 1144, 37;) 
$9,001,637 

816,062,652 
230 

805 
8930, 764 

119 
8216,411 

686 
$714, 353 

608 
$676, 428 


837, 926 

30, 862 

22,136 

26, 470 

8S, 964, 097 

8,327 
83, 612, 989 

17, 219 
$5, 180, 672 

924 
8170, 536 


7,641 
8,154 
8,334 
8,429 
8,693 
8,539 
8,437 
8,348 
8,347 
8,700 
8,451 
7,852 

16, 142 

16,  596 
17,414 
17, 694 
17, 946 

17,  709 
17,452 
16, 852 
16, 944 
17,666 
17, 502 
16,717 

863 
893 
959 
947 
956 
943 
939 
918 
907 
937 
920 
900 


892 
42 


1,466 

836 

19 

480 

7,803 

08 

674 


North  Carolina. 


Ohio. 


8674. 869 

816,925 

S.52. 852 

S360. 420 

8244. 672 

15 

64 
846,224 

18 
812, 185 

46 
834,039 

41 
832, 961 

5 
81, 078 

1,692 

1,425 

1,495 

8255,253 

317 
$91, 029 

735 
$123, 742 

443 

$40, 482 


323 
340 
343 

351 
366 
287 
288 
280 
285 
295 
328 
329 

719 
786 
804 
802 
799 
681 
676 
699 
706 
716 
719 
713 

451 
458 
461 
461 
463 
431 
430 
424 
432 
436 
434 
434 


IS 
18 
18 

62 
178 

88 

46 
95 
13 


191,582 
152, 622 
"38.' 404' 


2,860 


2, 860 


81, 067, 937 

$40, 320 

$77,046 

8323,958 

8626,613 

24 

56 
$56,356 

12 
$15,050 

44 
$40,306 

34 

837, 170 

10 
83,136 

1,565 

1,311 

1,413 

8354, 369 

154 
874, 125 

1,229 
8275, 317 

30 
84,927 


146 
151 
1.57 
161 
161 
148 
156 
158 
161 
156 
150 
1.55 

1,213 
1,217 
1,255 
1,285 
1,259 
1,242 
1,233 
1,219 
1, 195 
1,221 
1,202 
1.201 

25 
27 
30 
32 
35 
38 
38 
34 
29 
28 
25 
25 


Pennsylvania. 


110 
469 


275 
10 


3.920 
3,920 


151 

134 

33 

1 

815, 743, 981 

8721,967 

81,890,387 

85, 599,  .572 

87,532,055 

367 

688 
$638,483 

68 
889,331 

630 
$549, 152 

487 
$491,717 

143 
857, 435 

24,063 

19, 185 

21,540 

$5,825,783 

3,725 
$1,599,766 

13,739 
$3,648,805 

4,076 
$577, 212 


3,715 
3,825 
3,869 
3,869 
3, 832 
3,696 
3,572 
3,  623 
3,651 
3,679 
3.706 
3,658 

13, 693 
13,950 
14,206 
14,286 
14, 109 
13,569 
12, 919 
13. 402 
13, 730 
13, 706 
13,739 
13, 559 

4,173 
4,160 
4,238 
4,271 
4,266 
3,963 
3,835 
3,897 
3,966 
3,964 
4,100 
4,085 


67 
49 
14 

1,032 
5,000 


854 

2,689 

302 


31,604 
16,496 
'i4,'i28' 


1  Includes  slates  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  mav  not  be  disclosed.  The  establishments  are 
distributed  as  follows:  Alabama,  1;  Idaho,  1;  Iowa,  2;  Kansas,  1;  Louisiana,  1;  Mississippi,  1:  Montana,  1:  Nebraska,  1:  Oregon,  1;  Texas  1:  West  Virginia  2: 
Missouri,  2. 


WOOL. 


191 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1900. 


Rhode  Island. 

South  Carolina. 

Tennessee. 

Utah, 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  other  states.  1 

15 

6 

4 

5 

14 

15 

27 

15 

1 

4 

3 

1 

3 

4 

9 

5 

2 

2 

1 

i 

2 

4 

3 

2 

1 

3 

9 

2 

3 

2 

7 

s 

16 

9 

4 
5 

J2, 452, 044 

$345,212 

$216,950 

$.52,  .550 

81,589,786 

8978,  .575 

$2,558,299 

$.52),  701 

6 

$145,  3M 

84,112 

$4,200 

S4,.500 

$21,300 

$26, 100 

859,760 

848,742 

7 

S30-1,8'J1 

$43,200 

$37,200 

$3,000 

892.380 

$61,307 

$222,935 

$101, 126 

8 

$.598, 808 

$200, 000 

$102,000 

811,800 

$485, 822 

$282,688 

$674,934 

$211,6.59 

9 

$1,402,495 

$97,900 

$73,550 

$33,230 

8990, 2« 

8608,480 

$1,600,670 

$162,274 

10 

10 

3 

4 

9 

4 

13 

n 

11 

65 

15 

12 

13 

32 

38 

12.T 

43 

12 

$8  ,-.223 

$13,520 

$lij,300 

$5,260 

$42,024 

$36,057 

$1.50,209 

$38,404 

13 

9 

3 

3 

5 

12 

2j 

10 
813,700 

33 

14 

$2fi,  050 

$2,950 

S3, 400 

$7,644 

$12, 100 
26 

$57,660 
100 

16 

56 

12 

9 

13 

27 

16 

$61, 173 

$10,570 

$11,900 

$5,260 

$34,380 

$23,967 

$92,  559 

$24,704 

17 

51 

10 

8 

3 

25 

26 

82 

30 

18 

$.58, 617 

$9,970 

$11,. 500 

$2,800 

833,460 

$23,957 

$86,006 

$24,139 

19 

5 

2 

1 

10 

2 

18 

3 

20 

$2, 656 

$600 

$400 

$2,460 

$920 

$7,553 
3,093 

$565 

21 

1,850 

460 

780 

126 

1,244 

2,197 

942 

22 

1,345 

262 

591 

69 

825 

1,862 

2,282 

782 

23 

1,594 

359 

611 

91 

1,041 

1,845 

2.722 

862 

24 

$469, 193 

$73,872 

$72,980 

$21,599 

8389,667 

$394,871 

$600,495 

8143,288 

26 

435 

73 

113 

15 

387 

601 

341 

180 

26 

$183,293 

826,200 

$31,424 

$8,800 

8161,607 

$179,267 

$144, 862 

$46, 820 

27 

1,015 

158 

228 

72 

651 

988 

1,7.56 

645 

28 

$256,743 

$32, 792 

$26,460 

$12,574 

8227,842 

$185,013 

$357,777 

$86,842 

29 

144 

128 

170 

4 

3 

256 

625 

127 

30 

$29,157 

$15,880 

$15,096 

$226 

$318 

$30,591 

$97,856 

89,626 

31 

3% 

63 

99 

13 

368 

585 

302 

172 

32 

448 

68 

99 

13 

411 

683 

312 

171 

33 

445 

75 

99 

14 

397 

678 

332 

170 

34 

440 

75 

105 

14 

406 

689 

341 

176 

35 

432 

85 

107 

16 

408 

690 

336 

177 

36 

431 

55 

119 

17 

384 

697 

351 

.     180 

37 

420 

56 

119 

17 

357 

643 

375 

188 

38 

438 

67 

119 

16 

361 

573 

380 

187 

39 

431 

71 

124 

17 

363 

570 

377 

187 

40 

419 

72 

124 

18 

408 

560 

290 

182 

41 

471 

91 

124 

16 

406 

477 

361 

181 

42 

463 

99 

124 

13 

375 

562 

340 

182 

43 

984 

153 

138 

56 

535 

977 

1,478 

625 

44 

1,043 

153 

138 

55 

643 

980 

1,566 

606 

45 

1,028 

162 

138 

50 

679 

1,004 

1,660 

607 

46 

1,068 

170 

178 

74 

697 

1,140 

1,757 

618 

47 

1,017 

173 

213 

83 

69S 

1,132 

1.7.52 

W2 

48 

986 

142 

238 

80 

653 

1,164 
996 

1,836 

663 

49 

945 

141 

238 

93 

614 

1,864 

544 

50 

984 

142 

238 

77 

636 

909 

1,877 

542 

.51 

980 

156 

303 

82 

682 

920 

1,885 

M2 

52 

1,027 

168 

303 

82 

686 

919 

1,886 

585 

63 

1,037 

173 

303 

65 

696 

808 

1,852 

572 

64 

1,078 

178 

303 

62 

590 

924 

1,658 

680 

55 

140 

114 

76 

3 

3 

257 

686 

113 

56 

136 

131 

76 

3 

3 

263 

699 

107 

57 

136 

135 

76 

3 

3 

268 

620 

107 

58 

149 

140 

171 

3 

3 

296 

618 

121 

59 

154 

152 

186 

3 

3 

308 

638 

121 

60 

153 

111 

186 

4 

3 

321 

646 

121 

61 

152 

110 

196 

6 

3 

233 

636 

133 

62 

148 

109 

216 

5 

3 

224 

634 

131 

6S 

150 

121 

216 

5 

8 

225 

646 

132 

64 

145 

124 

216 

5 

3 

224 

630 

146 

65 

152 

141 

211 

5 

3 

223 

634 

143 

66 

114 

144 

211 

3 

3 

224 

615 

145 

67 

26 

12 

42 

45 

25 

25 

68 

34 

10 

160 
153 

13 
36 

31 

96 

65 

22 

887 

69 



70 

10 
(!4 

78 
51 

86 
92 

9 
246 

71 

60' 

72 

58 

11 

135 

3 

1 

39 

67 

42 

73 

49 
195 

26 
18 

16 
168 

60 
157 

14 
246 

38 
304 

46 

148 

74 

is' 

75 

2 
10 

165 

2 
40 

6 
34 

157 
16 

6 
3 

76 

77 

3 

78 

79 

3' 

80 

6,836 

5,626' 

ii'.mh' 

i2,'636' 

8,'694' 

3,"8i6' 

81 

2,640 

11,076 

6,156 

7, 482 

l.,560 

82 

3,604 

83 

s'ko' 

s.'sso' 

2,'256' 

84 

192 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  42.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS: 


New  Jersey. 


New  York. 


North  Carolina.  Ohio.  Pennsylvania. 


90 
91 
92 
93 

94 
95 
96 
97 


100 
101 

102 
103 
101 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 

110 
HI 
112 
113 
114 


116 
117 
118 
119 
120 

121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 

128 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 

138 
139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 
148 
149 
140 
151 
152 
153 
164 
156 
156 
157 
158 
159 
160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 

166 

167 
168 
169 
170 
171 
172 
173 
174 


Machinerv— rontinued. 

Spindles,  number — continued. 
Doubling- 
Woolen  

Worsted 

Cotton 

Looms  on  woolen  or  worsted  goods,  number 

Narrow,  under  oO  inch-reed  space — 

On  woolen  giwds 

Hand- 
On  woolen  or  worsted  goods 

Braiders,  number 

Sewing  machines,  number 

Ku i tting  machines,  number 

Spring-beard  needle — ■ 

Flat,  ribbed 

Flat,  plain 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  ribbed 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  plain 

Circular,  ribbed , 

Circular,  plain 

Circu la r.  hosiery,  automatic 

Lamb,  and  other  variety,  hand 

Latch  needle — 

Flat,  ribbed 

Flat .  plain 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  ribbed 

Full  fashioned,  flat,  plain 

Circular,  ribbed 

Circular,  plain 

Circular,  hosiery,  automatic 

Lamb,  and  other  variety,  hand 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  oflices,insurance,and  al  1  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto  included 

Contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Wool- 
Foreign,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Domestic,  in  condition  purchased,  pounds 

Cost 

Foreign  and  domestic,  etc,,  scoured,  pounds 

Animal  hair  and  fur — 

Mohair,  pounds 

Cost 

Butfalo,  cow.  and  other  animal  hair  and  fur,  pounds 

Cost 

Cotton,  bales 

Pounds 

Cost 

Materials,  not  made  in  mill — 

Shoddv,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool  waste  and  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Camel,  alpaca,  and  vicuna  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair  noils,  pounds 

Cost 

Tops,  pounds J. 

Cost 

Yarns,  not  made  in  mill- 
Woolen,  pounds 

Cost 

Worsted,  pounds 

Cost 

Merino,  pounds 

Cost ". 

Cotton,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun  silk,  pounds 

Cost 

Linen,  pounds 

Cost 

Jute,  ramie,  or  other  vegetable  fiber,  pounds 

Cost 

All  other  materials  which  are  components  of  product 

Soap,  pounds 

Cost 

Oil  tor  preparing  wool  for  cards  or  combs,  gallons 

Cost 

Chemicals  and  dvestufTs 

Fuel ...'. 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  sufiplies 

.\11  other  materials 

Freight 

Cotton  yarn  made  in  mill  for  use  therein,  pounds 

Products: 

Total  value 

Partly  manufacture'!  products  for  sale — 

Woolen  yarn,  all  wool,  pounds 

Value , 

Worsted  yarn  and  tops,  pounds 

\'alue 

Woolen  or  worsted  yam,  union  or  merino,  cotton  mixed,  pounds. . 

Value 

Cotton  yarn,  pounds , 

Val  ue , 


480 

76 


382 
1,335 


126 


8 
1 

61 

1 

466 

433 

109 

52 

S122, 374 

S7,148 

SIO, 380 

S103.846 
SI. 000 

S997, 110 

88,068 
362,539 

67,092 
$15,166 
133, 583 


434 
217, 148 
819, 307 


16,229 
89, 774 


23,723 
815,359 

43,800 

823,485 

232, 157 

8223, 530 

10,000 

8.S,000 

1,923.6.S4 

8387,413 

3,190 

813, 470 

5,592 

816,  .592 


8100, 251 
107, 069 

S4,940 
6,548 

$3,170 
827, 102 
$13, 712 

$1,300 

$3,080 
$45,852 

83,068 


$1,748,148 


12,282  I 
11,666 


860 
24 
77 

274 

2,501 

74 

40 

599 

891 

79 

34 

3,663 

547 

246 

859 

82,199,029 

8144,387 

894,980 

81,818,590 

8141. 072 

820,218,200 

710,834 

8396, 246 

4,817,495 

81, 663, 529 

4,803.101 

626, 146 

$41,076 

30,415 

82,130 

45,937 

24, 337, 305 

81, 668, 014 

2,105,354 

8199,127 

2, 923, 552 

8817,  .592 

29,  -224 

814,212 

100 

825 

47,  .500 

833, 866 

902, 234 

$423,411 

1, 585, 842 

81,221,820 

562, 040 

8232,  Oil 

.59,112,590 

88,517,651 

110,660 

8473. 073 
31,899 

869, 271 

66,000 

$48,000 

39,  782 

854,109 

81, 659, 723 

3, 092, 438 

S99, 635 

173,  458 

840, 927 

8211,687 

$251,  801 

S3S, 657 

894,630 

81, 812, 802 

8130, 165 

14, 497, 904 

835,886,048 

7,027 

$3, 307 

200 

8200 

2,000 

8700 

211,000 

833,200 


191 

1,354 


170 
,147 


472 

104 

629 

5« 

835,920 
84,803 
83,822 

827,005 
8290 

8504,027 


2, 624 

1, 300, 378 

$92,754 

20,000 
$1,400 


2,136,604 
8333,058 


83,460 
24,015 


833, 219 

812, 533 
81,229 
86,810 

812,630 
86,303 

968,000 

$1,023,150 


272 

194 

45 

392 

$99,411 
$14,  707 
83,33S 
854, 015 
$27,  &51 

$807,673 

15,000 
83,900 
125,500 
857,840 
123,750 

5,053 
83,877 


100 
50,000 
$3,500 

70,000 
810,000 

90,000 
829, 310 


64,823 
838,346 
455,  ,569 
$412, 277 
202, 934 
$51,774 
432, 372 
898,817  ( 

4,083  [ 
813,948  i 

3,5.50  I 
812, 402 


88,385 

68,720 

82,639 

2,600 

8880 
$10, 688 
$7, 316 
82, 982 
82,015 
821,819 
$11,958 


81,576,285 


180 
133 

130 

3 

128 
4,612 
26,120 

.52 
319 

12 

178 

505 

1,272 

7.54 

66 

619 

779 

31 

20 

6,962 

2,913 

10, 215 

1,420 

$1,884,722 

$107, 905 

826, 416 

81,042,198 
8708,203 

810,928,113 

582,215 
8183, 224 

765, 699 
8291,036 
1, 069,  994 


4,859 
2,218,426 
8189,491 

106,907 
821,065 

487, 078 
8142, 244 


11,875 
88,985 

409,163 

$219, 025 

1,115,863 

8861,068 

350.011 

892,478 

38, 323, 301 

87,183,052 

18, 175 

871,458 

12,222 

$31,711 


500 

8100 

8575,488 

266,371 

812,  707 

30,458 

88,629 

8271,662 

8124,  736 

852,607 

848,800 

$477,665 

$60,882 

328,937 

$21,896,063 

72,000 
$36,000 


327, 612 
852, 013 


WOOL. 


193 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Rhode  Island.         South  Carolina.  Tennessee 


592 


Utah. 


Vermont. 


Virginia 


Wisconsin 


1,212 


All  other  states.' 


86 
86 
87 
88 


90 
91 
92 
93 

94 

96 

96 

97 

98 

99 
100 
101 

102 
103 
104 
105 
106 
107 
108 
109 

110 
111 
112 
113 
114 

116 

116 
117 
118 
119 
120 

121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 

128 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
135 
136 
137 

138 
139 
140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 
148 
149 
151) 
1.51 
152 
153 
154 
1.55 
156 
157 
158 
159 
160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 

166 

167 
168 
169 
170 
171 
172 
173 
174 


316 
1,262 


10 

785 


20 
101 


494 
633 


565 
993 


451 
2,832 


18 
915 


493 
"9 


250 
4 

448 
7 

890,900 
86, 157 
85,779 

875,329 
83,635 

81,766,831 

28,860 

$15,415 

706,  698 

8167,058 

424, 210 

251 
125, 733 
814, 555 


90,566 
$22,762 


33,450 
$23,005 

181,264 
875, 875 


531,778 

$488, 442 

8,989 

85,450 

4,071,207 

$809, 552 

125 

8343 

30 

889 


822, 974 

93, 124 

83,774 

2,311 

$946 

$14, 794 

822. 564 

83, 151 

$48, 925 

816,497 

810,361 


$2, 713, 860 


61,002 
$36, 103 


66 
220 


268 
12 


207 
48 
244 


838, 887 

SS26 

51 ,  162 

$11,100 

$26, 600 

$237, 622 


935 
467,539 
$31,000 


$10, 270 


$150 
$10, 120 


$248, 950 


84, 677 

$2,107 

8325 

$2,145 


$24,184 


20,000 
$18, 000 


1,269,600 
$191,800 


650 
$25 


$7,700 
$4,262 
$60 
$1,475 
$300 
81,000 


1,099,000 
$203, 500 


3,000 
8420 
1,050 


11,625 
$8,176 
10,460 
$7,916 


15,700 

$4,300 

123 

$940 


$392, 237 


821,. 500 
81,600 


8850 
83,600 


$395. 1.50 


$500 
3,310 
$218 


$200 
$60 

$120 
$85 

$450 


$66,  357 


73 
226 


164 


60 
1 

$108, 006 

$12, 519 

83, 220 

$92,267 


81,116,324 

86,530 

854,256 

454,404 

$180,  .531 

540, 934 


1,400 
711,602 
$56, 691 

161,145 

$31,859 

389, 780 

$162, 771 


46,091 

$43,401 

20,878 

813, 647 

1,920,712 

$408,  628 


60 

8132 


847,842 

95,279 

85,747 

8,008 

$4,478 

86,683 

822, 196 

8.55 

87,736 

873,449 

35,222 

420,000 

81,834,685 

6 
169 
206 


2 

4 

71 

"269 

"237 


$119, 198 

$31,998 

$5,887 

881,313 


$797,818 


8,719 
4,136,996 
$276,801 

90,  694 
$6,691 


2,000 

$800 

2,600 

$2,800 

2,400 

$870 

2,097,316 

8367,783 

350 

8301 

2.50 

81,000 


891,890 

110,714 

$2, 066 

1,077 

$173 

$4,505 

$17,  909 

8850 

$7,  ,547 

$11,596 

$5,  236 

14,861,000 

$1,498,066 


3 
90 

24 
5 
41 

38 

2 

19 

74 

677 

504 

775 

679 

$223, 216 
816, 8.86 

86, 314 
81U5, 374 

84.642 

81. 170, 146 

76, 394 

812,738 

722, 963 

8124,063 

422.423 


279 
124,310 
810, 27' 

54,833 
$9,864 
147,  763 
$31,248 
6,265 
8947 


276, 286 

$116,521 

277,930 

$202, 348 

109,643 

$37, 330 

1,632,  .591 

$307,  672 

1,629 

$5,  .562 

6, 642 

$19,271 


$167,013 

•  213,971 

$8,389 

10, 735 

$2, 851 

855.087 

$25, 409 

81,442 

85,071 

815,  .535 

$18, 624 

160,000 

$2,486,813 


2. 300 
$1,380 


106 
57 


20 


$79, 066 

$1, 690 

$1, 379 

$44,007 

$31,990 

$.302, 835 

10,000 
$6,000 
62,000  i 
$22,400 
64,200 


145 
72, 440 
86,464 

41,713 
88. 280 


29.000 
$14, 625 

61,600 
$41,210 
350, 000 
$60,000 
448,  .500 
888,432 


100 

8300 

143 

$220 

400 

$6S 

810, 175 

32,  .520 

81,  321 

1,683 

$672 

$26, 656 

$8,722 

3230 

$2,539 

$11,959 

$2,562 


8607, 665 


'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  .\labama 
Texas,  1;  West  Virginia,  2;  Missouri,  2. 

MON TEXT 1 3 


1:  Idaho.  1:  Iowa,  2;  Kansas,  1;  Louisiana,  1:  Mississippi,  1;  Montana.  1;  Nebraska,  1-  Oregon,!: 


194 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  42.— HOSIERY  AND  KNIT  GOODS: 


New  Jersey. 


New  York. 


North  Carolina, 


Ohio. 


Penneylrania. 


175 
176 


177 
178 
179 
ISO 

181 

182 
1S3 
184 

185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
190 

191 
192 
19S 
194 
195 
196 
197 
198 

199 
200 
201 
202 
203 
204 
205 
206 
207 
208 
209 
210 
211 
212 
213 

214 
216 
216 
217 
218 
219 
220 
221 
222 
223 
224 
225 
226 

227 
228 
229 

230 
231 


232 
233 
234 
235 
236 
237 
238 
239 
240 
241 

242 
243 
244 


245 
246 
247 
248 
249 
250 
251 
352 
253 
■254 


Products: 

Total  value — Continued. 

Partly  manufactured  products  for  sale — Continued. 

\Vastc.  pounds 

Vatuc 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods — 
Ilo'se  and  half  hose — 
Woolen — 

Half  "hose,  dozens 

Vahie 

Hose,  dozens 

Value 

Merino  or  mixed — 

Half  hose,  dozens 

Value 

Hose,  dozens 

Value 

Cotton- 
Half  hose,  dozens 

Value 

Hose,  dozens 

Value 

Silk  hose,  dozens 

Value 

Shirts  and  drawers- 
Merino  or  mixed,  dozens 

Value 

All  wool,  dozens 

Value 

All  cotton,  dozens 

Value 

Silk  OB  silk  mixed,  dozens 

Value 

Combination  suits — 

Jlerino  or  mixed,  dozens 

Value 

All  wool, dozens 

Value 

All  cotton,  dozens 

Value 

Silk  or  silk  mixed,  dozens 

Value 

Leggins  and  gaiters,  dozens 

Value 

Glovesand  mittens,  dozens 

Value 

Hoods,  scarfs,  nubias,  etc. ,  dozens 

Value 

Cardigan  jackets,  sweaters,  athletic  goods,  fancy  jackets,  etc., 
dozens. 

Value 

Shawls,  dozens 

Value 

Fancy  knit  goods,  wristers,  etc.,  dozens 

Value 

Boot  and  shoe  linings,  square  yards 

Value 

Astrakhans,  square  yards 

Value '. 

Jersey  cloth  and  stockinette,  square  yards 

Value 

All  other  products 

Amount  received  for  contract  work 

Comparison  of  products: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned— 

Engines- 
Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

Horsepower 

■Waterwheels.  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Other  power,  number 

Horsepower 

Rented  horsepower — 

Electric 

Oiher  kind 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower 

Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  pro- 
prietors and  firm  members: 

.     Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  5 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

51  tolOO 

101  toS.W 

251  to  ."WO 

601  to  1.000 

Over  1,000 


10,000 
S20,000 
25,325 

$56,500 

765 
81,428 


63,641 

846,390 

694,195 

8596, 537 

1,000 

$10,000 

85,273 

8540,200 

8,829 

$93, 060 

95,035 

8190, 066 

294 

85, 919 

83 
81,185 

66 
81, 436 


338 

87, 130 
35,000 

$63,000 
11.000 

854,000 


11,628 

829,233 

54,606 

8136,744 

11,. '590 

818,660 

4,000 

87,000 

33,  764 
$45, 7.54 

44, 494 

886, 108 

200 

$4,800 

1,779,339 

88,394,455 

780,  753 

82, 677, 994 

6,636,642 

$17, 006, 721 

23, 785 

$202, 124 

54,153 

8378,258 

3,044 

845,  783 

2a'>,  079 

8904,154 

10,271 

$36,  327 

39,813 

$104, 492 

567,  720 

$1,570,406 

171,060 

8-533,  527 

451,262 

82,564,713 

200 

$2,000 

67, 670 

8271,612 


17, 182 

811,085 

13,744 

$3,044 

847,168 


13 
81,518,936 
81,349,622 

15 
939 


14 

736 

2 

12 

2 

150 

6 

26 


4,500 

84,500 

1,663,961 

$228, 729 

$570, 523 

825, 124 

187 
$30,824,017 
827,304,179 

218 
21, 797 


172 

13,868 

6 

36 


7,069 

23 

246 


16 


261 

317 

18 


343, 337 
8331,043 

726, 094 
8446,262 


112,875 
$196,220 


5,000 
$9, 375 


840,250 


12 
$835, 396 
$715, 450 

24 
1,755 


17 
663 


6 
1,015 


63,381 
$99,095 

25,726 
$37,227 

67,700 
$78,000 

37,300 
850,000 


39,609 
$48,079 


9,053 

$43,018 

13,467 

$101,638 

16,806 

845,668 

239 

$2,123 

5,135 

861,088 

1,173 

826, 705 

11,517 

873,052 

342 

$6,065 

50 

$200 

273, 940 

$333,258 

122,102 

$304,449 


82, 960 
$141,380 

60,000 
8126,000 


8250 


20 
81,439,716 
81,260,457 

19 
550 


14 

460 

1 

6 

1 

36 


105, 212 
$2,952 


76,  460 

8101,975 

130, 740 

8275,087 

103,487 

$152, 732 

.57, 131 

8103, 988 

6, 994, 945 

$4,810,822 

7,863,561 

87, 655, 360 

6,000 

$90,000 

114,183 

8647,285 

78,064 

8.368, 223 

2, 670.  341 

83,456,695 

12, 449 

874, 978 

29, 366 

8208,  M4 

1,115 

$15, 120 

374,057 

$702,523 


9,820 

$33,124 

82, 163 

$167,545 

42, 760 

$127,785 

86,191 

$536, 707 

30,000 

$96,000 

110,630 

8454,892 

3, 366,  890 

81,043,799 

408, 807 

8213, 053 

178, 199 

$47, 101 

8374,976 

$46,484 

236 

$18. 982, 587 
816,664,664 

301 
9,612 


236 

8,246 

9 

75 

6 

114 

11 

134 


560 
483 
230 


319 

1 

IS 

64 

113 

57 

52 

14 

5 


WOOL. 


195 


SUMMARY  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


Rhode  Island. 

South  Caroiina. 

Tennessee. 

Utah. 

Vermont. 

Virginia. 

Wisconsin. 

All  other  states.i 

74,129 
816,657 

21,111 

843,  722 

131,018 

8357,501 

30,000 
851,000 

40.000 
868,000 

4,301 

83,501 

45,837 

881,997 

2,108 
8569 

5,315 

813,  789 

2,960 

89,  305 

146,480 

8202, 575 

3,115 

81,984 

251,  440 
8167,  645 

204,700 
$167,318 

175 
176 

177 
178 
179 
IHO 

ISl 
182 
183 
184 

1,8.5 
188 
187 
188 
189 
190 

1,900 

So,  122 

4,250 

812, 790 

5,389 

816,616 

3, 722 

86,141 

26,831 

849,405 

6,202 

810,233 

25.661 

824,702 

1.500 
82. 100 

1,200 
81,800 

l.ROO 
82,100 

ir,738 

8337,732 

6,527 

633,030 

128,371 

8204. 163 

57. 616 

8108.953 

91,028 

887,  313 

256,586 

8293,359 

30,000 
857,000 

306,500 
8204,750 

420,250 
8182,687 

360.000 
8203,000 

153,500 
8135, 150 

.500 

8820 

1.600 

84,350 

50 

S420 

80 

8980 

100 

82.710 

60 

S918 

.56.000 

840, 350 

299, 800 

8249,850 

28. 980 

8166, 175 

2,000 

821,000 

102,506 

8259,910 

. 

96,161 
8543, 409 

32,  960 

8263,940 

131.398 

8497,206 

22, 400 
846,321 

7,785 

857,697 

3,305 

$31,623 

11,040 

824,957 

130 

811,760 

1,42-2 

831,120 

1,060 

822,568 

5,130 

829, 376 

216 

828, 900 

11.310 

866,889 

350,550 

$824,768 

5,744 

823,490 

38, 136 

8121,  305 

9,000 

824, 600 

1,376 

82,964 

mo 

25 
8300 

193 
194 

580.744 

81,108,780 

1,000 

81,500 

197 

3,800 
810,440 

510 

811,370 

350 

88,100 

700 

$10,410 

32 

81,140 

14 

894 

160 

8407 

103 

8891 

245 

83,570 
46 

8479 
30 

8336 

200 

10 
8200 

201 

3,000 
818,000 

17,800 
896,617 

40,100 
843,850 

204 

206 

2 
816 

8 
822 

207 

208 
209 
210 

11,200 
813,090 

''12 

60 
81,690 

214 

216 

216 

■'18 

5,151,255 
8826, 851 
98,990 
830,775 
834,269 
8493,644 
8215,484 

219 

OOf) 

221 

•)•» 

1,243,000 

8280,000 

846.416 

•>24 

84,800 

8760 
8700 

3 

840,275 
837,615 

1 
5 

81,415 

8117,606 
81,260 

23 
82,422,597 
82.185,300 

19 
1,169 

17 
1,107 

1 

4 

2 

25 

$2,500 
$36,  742 

13 
$684,192 
8583, 2'23 

13 
564 

18 
549 

226 

11 
82,M9,694 
82,364,270 

13 

1,231 

14 
999 

4 
8328,487 
8304,000 

6 
501 

8 
456 

3 

8270,500 
8225,000 

4 

212 

3 
128 

12 
81,. 518, 311 
81,434,059 

14 

1,213 

11 
683 

11 

81,362,306 
81,307,528 

15 
1,203 

16 
1,170 

227 
228 
229 

■230 
231 

234 

6 
130 

2 
20 

2 

37 

14 
526 

1 

2.5 

•'% 

237 

238 

239 

'>\n 

*M1 

25 
25 

4 

8 

20 
13 
3 

27 

5 
10 

242 

102 
16 

15 

25 

5 

243 

6 

4 

5 

14 

15 

15 

245 

2 

1 
5 
1 
3 
2 
1 

1 
8 
6 
1 

3 

1 

4 
4 

1 
3 
1 

•'47 

2 
2 

1 

2 
4 
3 

4 

1 

1 
4 
1 

1 

6 
6 
3 

249 

1 

1 

250 
251 

■'5? 

2.53 

■'54 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows: 
Texas,  1;  West  Virginia  2;  Missouri,  2. 


Alabama,  1;  Idaho,  1;  Iowa,  2;  Kansas,  1,-  Louisiana,  1:  Mississippi,  1;  Montana,  1:  Nebraska,  1:  Oregon,  1; 


SILK   MANUFACTURES. 


(197) 


SILK  MANUFACTURES, 


By  Franklin  Allen,  Expert  Special  Agent. 


Silk  manufacture  in  the  United  States  has  shown  a 
marked  development  since  the  census  of  1890.  It  has 
taken  its  place  as  one  of  the  leadint;-  industries  of  the 
nation  and  along  several  lines  has  estal)iished  its  inde- 
pendence of  foreign  competition.  The  causes  for  these 
favorable    conditions   were    manifold.     Chief    among 


perfection  and  reliability  of  his  machinery,  and  the 
wise  restriction  of  importation  during  the  less  pros- 
perous period  of  the  development  of  the  industry. 

Table  1  presents  a  comparative  summary  of  the 
industry  as  returned  at  each  census  from  1850  to  1900, 
inclusive,  with  the  percentages  of  increase  for  each 
decade. 


them   were   the   enterprise   of  the  manufacturer,  the 

Table  1.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1850  TO  1900,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


DATE  OP  CENSUS. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Wages. 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products,  including  amount  re- 
ceived for  contract  work 

Raw  silk  used,  pounds 


483 

881,082,201 

2, 6.57 

$3,134,352 

65.416 

S20,  982. 194 

24.206 

$10,  699, 483 

34. 797 

89, 377, 696 

6,413 

8905,015 

810,264,208 

862,406,665 

$107,2.56,2.58 
9. 760, 770 


$51,007, 

=  1, 

=$1,917, 

49. 

$17, 762, 

17, 

89,349, 

28, 

87, 970, 

$442^ 

$4, 259, 

$51,004, 


$87,298,451 
6, 376, 881 


1880 

1S70 

1860 

382 

86 

139 

$19,125,300 

86,231,130 

$2,926,980 

(') 

(«) 

('! 

(^) 

e) 

¥) 

31,337 

6,649 

5,436 

$9, 146, 705 

$1,942,286 

$1,050,224 

9,375 

1,734 

1,585 

(^) 

(3) 

(^) 

16,396 

3,529 

3,850 

m 

(') 

(») 

5,566 

1,386 

') 

(') 

(') 

^) 

(•') 

(*) 

(') 

822,467,701 

$7, 817,  .559 

83,901,777 

841.033,045 

$12,210,662 

86,607,771 

2,690,482 

684,488 

462,965 

67 
8678, 3tX) 
(=>) 
{») 
1,723 
8297, 416 
503 
(') 
1,220 

m 

P) 
<?) 

$1,093,860 

81,809,476 


PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE. 


1890 

to 
lilOO 


2.3 

59.0 

73.5 

63.4 

32.5 

18.1 

37.5 

14.4 

20.3 

17.7 

123. 8 

104.4 

141.0 

22.4 

22.9 
53.1 


1880 

to 
1890 


23.6 
166.7 


57.6 
94.2 

87.8 


127.0 


112.8 
137.0 


1870 

to 

1880 


344.2 
206.9 


371.3 
370.9 
440.7 


364.6 

'soi.'e 


187.4 


236.0 
293.1 


ISGO 

to 
18J0 


138.1 
112.9 


22.3 

84.9 

9.4 


18.3 


100.4 


84.8 
47.8 


1850 

to 

18G0 


107.5 
3S1.5 


215. 4 
253.1 
215.1 


215.6 


'  Decrensc.  'Not  reported  separately. 

-  tncludos  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  iu  this  table.    (See  Table  23. )     *Not  reported. 


Table  1  shows  that  in  the  items  of  capital,  wages, 
materials,  and  products  the  industry  has  maintained  a 
constant  increase  from  1850  to  1900.  In  considering 
such  increases  the  differences  in  the  method  and  scope 
of  the  inquiries  at  the  several  censuses  should  be  taken 
into  account.  The  reports  on  silk  manufacture  at  prior 
censuses  included  establishments  engaged  in  the  manu- 
facture of  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  braids  and  trimmings, 
and  other  small  goods  in  which  silk  was  the  fiber  of 
chief  value,  but  in  which  cotton  or  wool  or  both  may 
also  have  been  used.  At  the  present  census  the  statis- 
tics of  hosiery  and  knit  goods  appear  in  a  separate 
report,  and  only  such  braids  and  trimmings  products 
and  other  small  goods  in  the  manufacture  of  which  silk 
is  the  material  of  predominant  value  are  included  in 
this  I'cport.  To  what  extent  these  differences  may  have 
affected  the  percentages  of  increase  between  1890  and 
1900  can  not  be  accurately  determined. 

In  the  principal  items  of  inquirv  the  absolute  increase 
shown  by  the  statistics  for  1900,  as  compared  with  tho.se 
for  1890,  is  less  than  it  was  during  the  preceding  decade 
and,  with  the  exception  of  capital  invested,  less  than  it 
was  in  the  decade  1870  to  1880.  A  noteworthy  and 
striking  fact  shown  in  the  foregoing  table  is  that  the 
value  of  the  products  in  1900  was  nearly  sixty  times  as 
great  as  it  was  in  1850. 

Table  2  presents  the  statistics  of  establishments  man- 


ufacturing a  product  exceeding  1^500  in  value  and  those 
reporting  a  product  of  less  than  $500;  the  latter  were 
not  reported  at  previous  censuses  and  therefore  are 
omitted  from  the  other  tables  and  their  use  confined  to 
Table  2. 

In  addition  to  the  -188  active  establishments  in  the 
United  States  during  the  census  year,  with  a  capital  of 
181,097,276,  shown  in  Table  2,  there  were  22  idle  estab- 
lishments, with  a  capital  of  ^27,491,  distributed  by 
states  as  follows: 


Num- 
ber of 
idle 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

SPINDLES. 

LOOMS. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Throw- 
ing. 

All 
other. 

Total. 

Broad. 

Rib- 
bon. 

Total 

22 

8427,491 

13,534 

4,050 

9,4S1 

211 

183 

28 

1 

20,300 
19,000 
57, 810 
95,000 
235,381 

Massachusetts 

7 

New  Jersey 

1,364 

250 

1,104 

185 

173 

12 

Pennsylvania  ... 

12, 180 

3,800 

8,380 

26 

10 

is 

Adding  the  statistics  of  active  establishments  to  those 
shown  in  the  foregoing  .statement  gives  a  total  of  510 
active  and  idle  establishments  in  the  United  States,  with 
a  capital  of  $81,521,767;  total  number  of  throwing 
spindles,  1,053,671;  accessory  .spindles.  952,122;  broad 
looms,  37,174;  and  narrow  fabric  looms,  7.169. 

(199) 


200 


MANUFACri'KKS. 


Tabi.k  2.     SUMMARY  OF  ESTABLISHMENTS  WITH  A  PRODCCT  EXCEEDING  $500  AND  THOSE  WITH  A  PRODUCT  OF 

LESS  THAN  $500. 


Number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Proprie- 
tors and 

firm 
members 

WAGE-EARNERS. 

Miscella- 

COST OF  MATERIALS  USED. 

CLASSES. 

Capital. 

Average 
number. 

Total  wages. 

neous 
expenses. 

Total. 

Textile. 

All  other. 

Total 

488 

881,097,276 

482 

65,420 

820,982,680 

810,264,444 

862,406,800 

858,093,267 

84,313,633 

Esdiblishments  with  a  product  exceeding  f.iOO... 
Estublistmieiils  with  a  product  of  less  than  8500... 

483 
5 

81,082,201 
15,075 

477 
5 

65,416 
4 

20,982,194 
486 

10,264,208 
236 

62,406,665 
135 

58,093,249 
18 

4,313,416 
117 

Raw  silk 
thrown  into 
organzine  or 
tram,  on  com- 
mission 

(pounds). 

Value  of  prod- 
ucts, including 
amounts  re- 
ceived for 
contract  work. 

NUMBER   OF  SPINDLES. 

NUMBER  OF  LOOSIS. 

CLASSES. 

Total. 

Throwing. 

-All  other. 

Total. 

Broad. 

Ribbon. 

Total             

4,300,059 

8107,257,376 

1,992,262 

1,049,624 

942,638 

44,432 

36,991 

7,441 

Establishments  with  a  product  exceeding  S500... 
Establishments  with  a  product  of  less  than  S500 

4,298,659 
1.400 

107,256,268 
1.118 

1,987,404 
4,858 

1,045,304 
4.320 

942,100 
538 

44,430 
•J 

36,989 
•2 

7,441 

li 

MATERIALS   AND    PRODUCTS   TWICE    INCLUDED. 

Table  3  i.s  a  comparative  .summary  by  state.s  foi"  1890 
and  1900  of  the  co,st  of  materiaLs  and  value  of  products 
as  reported,  the  cost  and  value,  respectively,  of  the 
materials  and  products  twice  included,  and  the  cost  of 
materials  and  value  of  product.s  exclusive  of  duplications. 

The  amount  shown  in  Table  3  as  the  value  of  products 
as  reported,  $107,256,258,  is  in  excess  of  the  merchant- 


able product  of  the  .silk  industry  in  1900.  The  value 
of  finished  goods  is  $92,451,212.  The  tabulation  has 
been  made  in  the  form  herein  presented  in  order  to 
show  statistics  comparal)le  with  those  of  the  censuses 
of  1880  and  1890,  which  included  in  their  totals  thrown 
silks  and  other  materials  which,  while  completed  prod- 
ucts to  the  throwster,  are  materials  to  the  weaver  and 
the  trimmings  manufacturer.  Thej'  were  designated  in 
subsidiarv  tables  of  those  censuses  as  "materials  twice 


Table  3.— ELIMINATION  OF  MATERIALS  AND  PRODUCTS  TWICE  INCLUDED:  1890  AND  1900. 


Year. 

MATERIALS. 

PRODfCTS. 

STATES. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials 
as  reported. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials twice 
included. 

Cost  of  ma- 
terials exclu- 
sive of  du- 
plications. 

Value  of 

products  as 

reported. 

Value  of 
products 
twice  in- 
cluded. 

Value  of 
products  ex- 
clusive of  du- 
plications. 

United  States. 

190O 
1890 



1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1S9U 

11900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
11890 

1900 
1890 

862,406,665 
51,004,425 

$11,840,267 
15,537,520 

$50,566,398 
35,466,905 

$107,256,268 
87, 298, 454 

814,805,046 
18,143,855 

892,461,212 
69,154,699 

California 

146,219 
146, 406 

7,198,008 
6,201,876 

187,514 
314,865 

8,420 
3,500 

,657,713 
889, 756 

51,042 

137,799 
142, 906 

6,610,296 
5,312,120 

136,472 
314,8.55 

256,902 
271,912 

12,378,981 
9, 788, 951 

421,088 
78.5,845 

9,300 
5,600 

1,041,714 
1,665,390 

29,893 

246  602 

Connecticut 

266,312 
11  337  267 

Illinois 

8,123,561 
391  195 

785,845 

Maryland 

34, 305 

3.823,963 
3.251,893 

21,631,118 
17, 908, 883 

0.  .670, 037 
10,174,818 

99,403 

34,305 

3,469,266 
2,605,718 

15,926,796 
12, 703, 382 

.5,426,064 
8, 8.66, 076 

99,403 

100,361 

5,957,632 
5,557,569 

39,966,662 
30, 760, 371 

12,706,246 
19,417,796 

135,354 

100,361 

Massachusetts 

354,697 
746,175 

6,  704, 322 
5,205,501 

1,144,973 
1,318,742 

290, 730 
945,610 

5,666,802 
4,611,959 

New  York 

5!  354!  389          25i 405^982 

North  Carolina 

1,681,481 
64,461 

17,736,315 
70,893 

Ohio 

13,983 

19,884,869 

12,094,389 

818,  .661 

149, 703 

720,525 

13.983 

16, 905, 038 
5,076,785 

780,831 
81,. 521 

720,525 

33,927 

31,072,926 
19,357,646 

1,311,333 
2L'9,062 

981,680 

33,927 

Pennisylvania 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 
1900 

3,979,831 
7,017,604 

37,730 
68,242 

9,359,279 
7,953,323 

22,294 
94,062 

940,776 

21  713  647 

Rhode  Island 

Virginia 

11,404,223 

1,289.039 
135, 000 

40,901 

[     11890 

All  other  states 

21900 
'1890 

1,326,448 
713,264 

1,539 
288,000 

1,324,909 
425,254 

2,068,564 
995,114 

26,845 
444,000 

2.041,709 
561,114 

1  Included  in  "nil  other  slates." 

^Includes  establishments  liistribuled  as  follows:  Delaware,  2:  Maine,  1;  Maryland.  2;  Michigan,  2:  New  Hampshire,  2;  I'tah,  2. 

3  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  .Maine,  1;  Michigan,  1;  Missouri,  1:  North  Carolina,  1;  Virginia,  1. 


SILK. 


201 


incUul(MU"  hut  ill  order  to  avoid  the  erroneous  impres- 
•sion  which  mij^ht  he  convej'ed  by  the  figures  without 
an  explanation,  and  nialvO  clear  the  reasons  for  tliis 
du])licati()n  and  consecjuent  eliinirration,  the  eonditiotis 
undei'  which  organzine  and  tram  arc  manufactured  are 
stated  as  follows: 

1.  Raw  silk  is  purchased  hy  a  silk  manufacturer  who 
has  the  saine  thrown  into  organzine  and  tram  in  a  plant 
owned  by  him,  but  located  elsewhere  than  in  pi'oximity 
to  his  factory,  possibly  in  another  state.  In  this  case 
the  raw  silk  and  the  organzine  and  tram  are  reported  as 
material  and  product,  respectively,  by  the  throwing 
plant,  and  the  (juantity  and  value  of  the  organzine  and 
tram  thus  thrown  is  also  reported  as  material  b}'^  the 
manufacturer  at  his  weaving  plant,  and  duplication 
occurs. 

2.  Raw  silk  is  purchased  by  a  silk  manufacturer  and 
thrown  into  organzine  and  tram  in  larger  quantities  than 
his  own  factory  consumption  recjuires,  and  this  excess 
is  reported  in  the  products  as  organzine  and  tram  for 
sale  to  other  silk  manufacturers.  In  this  case  the 
organzine  and  tram  are  also  reported  as  material  by  the 
purchasing  silk  manufacturers,  and  duplication  occurs. 

3.  Raw  silk  is  purchased  by  a  throwster  on  his  own 
account  and  thrown  into  organzine  and  tram  for  sale  to 
silk  manufacturers.  In  this  case  the  raw  silk  and  organ- 
zine and  tram  are  reported  by  the  throwster  as  material 
and  product,  respectively,  of  his  mill,  and  also  as  mate- 
rial (organzine  and  tram)  by  the  purchasing  silk  manu- 
facturer, and  duplication  occurs. 

4.  Raw  silk  is  purchased  l)y  a  silk  manufacturer,  who 
has  the  same  thrown  into  organzine  and  tram  in  his 
silk  factory  or  in  a  plant  owned  bj'  him  in  close  prox- 
imity thereto.  In  this  case  the  raw  silk  is  reported  as 
material,  and  the  quantity  and  value  of  the  organzine 
and  tram  is  not  shown,  the  conversion  of  the  raw  silk 
thereto  lieing  only  one  of  the  several  stages  of  the 
manufacturing  process  for  the  finished  product,  and  no 
duplication  occurs. 

5.  Raw  silk  is  purchased  b3ra  silk  manufacturer,  who 
has  the  same  thrown,  on  contract,  at  a  throwing  mill 
not  owned  or  operated  b}'  himself.  In  this  case  the 
cost  of  the  raw  silk  is  not  reported  by  the  throwster, 
but  only  by  the  manufacturer  in  the  report  for  his  silk 
factory,  and  no  duplication  occurs.  (The  quantity  of 
raw  silk  thus  thrown  by  commission  throwsters  was 
4,298,659  pounds,  2,331,-456  pounds  being  thrown  into 
organzine  and  1.967,203  pounds  into  tram.) 

Large  quantities  of  spun  silk  are  imported  and  a  verj^ 
considerable  quantity  is  also  manufactured  in  the  United 
States.  The  spun  silk  manufactured  in  the  United 
States  is  reported  under  material  as  silk  waste,  and  the 
manufactui'ed  product  as  spun  silk  by  the  mill  produc- 
ing the  same  for  sale,  and  when  purchased  and  used  by 
a  silk  manufacturer  as  material  is  necessarily  dupli- 
cated.    The  amount  of  this  duplication  can  not  be  more 


accurately  determined  than  hy  taking  the  amount  thus 
reported  "'  for  sale'"  and  deducting  its  value  from  mate- 
rials and  products  alike. 

A  considerable  (luantity  of  mamifactured  floss  and 
fringe  silk  is  also  used  by  silk  trimmings  maiuifacturers, 
not  the  pi'oduct  of  their  own  factories, which  is  properly 
charged  as  materials.  A  duplication  to  that  extent 
occurs  and  has  therefore  been  eliminated  by  deducting 
its  cost  from  materials  and  products  alike. 

Briefly,  the  elimination  of  "materials  and  products 
twice  included"  has  been  accomplished  as  follows: 

1.  The  cost  and  value  of  organzine  and  tram  are 
deducted  as  reported,  under  both  "materials"  and 
"products." 

2.  The  value  of  spun  silk  reported  as  a  product  is 
deducted  from  both  materials  and  products. 

3.  The  cost  of  fringe  and  floss  reported  as  material  is 
deducted  from  both  materials  and  products. 

4.  The  amount  received  for  contract  work,  in  all 
cases,  is  deducted  from  the  value  of  the  products. 

The  results  obtained  are  termed  in  Table  3  "cost  of 
materials,  exclusive  of  duplications,"  and  "value  of 
products,  exclusive  of  duplications."  The  above  method 
has  been  followed  for  the  purpose  of  presenting  results 
comparable  with  those  published  in  reports  of  silk 
manufacture  at  former  censuses.  The  results  as  pre- 
sented in  Table  3  will  differ  from  the  net  value  of  prod- 
ucts presented  in  the  general  tables  of  manufactures. 
The  true  "net  value"  is  obtained  by  deducting  from 
the  gross  value  of  products  the  total  amount  reported 
as  the  cost  of  materials  used  in  partially  manufactured 
form. 

In  Table  3,  111,840,267  is  estimated  to  represent  the 
cost  of  "materials  twice  included"  and  $14,805,046  to 
represent  the  value  of  "products  twice  included"  in 
1900.  At  the  census  of  1890  the  corresponding  allow- 
ances were  §15,537,520  and  §18,143,855  for  materials 
and  products,  respectively.  The  following  statement 
shows  the  items  in  detail,  for  the  United  States,  of 
materials  and  products  twice  included  at  the  present 
census: 


MATERIALS. 

PEODCCTS. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Organzine  and  tram  . . . 

Fringe  and  floss,  bought 

as  such  and  used  In 

2,338,464 

67,984 
437,459 

$10,539,632 

274,408 
1,026,227 

'2,468,387 

67,984 
437,459 

i$ll,167,191 
274,408 

Spun  silk  made  for  sale. 
Amount   received    for 

1.026,227 
2,337,220 

Total 

2,843,907 

11,840,267 

2,973,830 

14,805,046 

'  Organzine  and  tram  "  made  for  sale." 


It  should  be  noted  that  in  many  instances  the  prod- 
ucts of  partial  manufacture  reported  in  one  state  go  to 
some  other  state  to  be  completed.  Hence,  in  some  cases 
the  gross  product  of  a  state  more  nearly  represents  the 


202 


MANUFACTURES. 


industrv  in  that  sttite  tliiui  would  its  finished  products. 
For  instiince,  the  v:iluc  of  the  ij-ross  product  of  Pcnn- 
s^-lvania,  amounting  to  §31,072,926,  is  much  nearer  the 
total  vahio  of  its  manufactures  of  silk  than  the  sum  of 
§21,713,*!47,  the  net  value  of  its  ])r(>ducts.  because  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  thrown  silk  in  the  state 
went  to  other  states  to  be  woven  into  finished  jn'oducts. 
The  relati\e  figures  of  the  number  of  looms  and  spindles 
in  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey  are  instructive  on  this 
point,  the  fact  being  that  a  considerable  number  of 
••throwing''  plants  in  Pennsylvania  are  operated  for 
account  of  weaving  plants  in  New  Jersey,  as  explained 
elsewhere  in  this  report.  Thus,  it  appears  that  there 
were  17,041  broad  power  looms  and  2,lilt)  ribbon  power 
looms  reported  in  New  Jersej'  as  against  11,135  and 
1,785,  respectively,  in  Pennsylvania,  while  the  number 
of  throwing  spindles  was  275.51ti  in  the  former  state 
and  611,670  in  the  latter. 

IMPORTS    AND    CONSUMPTION    OF    SILK    AND    SILK    GOODS. 

Silk  factories  depend  entirely  upon  imports  for  their 
raw  silk  material.  The  quantity  and  value  of  the 
imports,  raw  silk,  spun  silk,  raw  silk  waste,  and  manu- 
factured silk  goods  for  1850, 1860, 1870, 1880,  and  each 
fiscal  year  between  1880  and  1900.  inclusive,  together 
with  the  value  of  silk  of  domestic  manufacture  at  each 
census  from  1850  to  1900.  inclusive,  are  given  in  Table  i. 

Table  -4  shows  the  silk  industry  of  the  United  States 
in   several    of    its   more   important   aspects.     As   the 


import  values  of  manufat'turecl  .-ilk  goods  are  foreign 
invoice  values,  an  axi-rage  of  about  70  per  cent  should 
be  added  for  freight,  revenue  duty,  importers'  profits, 
and  occasional  ad\ances  on  imports,  to  represent  cost  to 
consumers.  It  should  be  stated  in  this  connection  that 
the  figures  of  import  \alues  of  manufactured  goods  at 
the  several  periods  include  the  value  of  sundry  artii-les, 
of  which  silk  is  the  chief  or  only  component  material, 
such  as  silk  caps,  bonnets,  and  hats,  silk  wearing  apparel, 
umbrellas  and  parasols  of  silk,  and  silk  buttons. 

The  value  of  the  domestic  manufacture  in  the  last 
six  decennial  census  periods,  when  added  to  the  value  of 
foreign  manufactured  goods  imported,  presents  in  the 
most  graphic  way  the  volume  of  the  consumption  of  silk 
goods  in  the  United  States.  This  consumption  is  shown 
by  the  table  to  be  steadily  increasing. 

In  1850  there  were  67  establishments  reported  as 
engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  silk  goods.  Their  total 
product  was  valued  at  §1,809,476,  an  average  of  §27.007 
for  each  establishment.  In  1900  the  establishments 
had  increased  in  number  to  483  and  the  value  of  the 
products  toSl07,256.258.  an  average  product  of  §222,063 
for  each  establishment.  The  imports  of  raw  silk  in  1850 
amounted  to  120,010  pounds,  valued  at  §401,385,  and 
it  is  probable  that  the  total  amount  was  consumed  in 
the  silk  mills.  The  imports  of  raw  silk  for  1900 
amounted  to  11,259,310  pounds,  valued  at  §44,549,672, 
exceeding  those  for  any  prior  fiscal  year  of  the  Govern- 
ment. 


T.^BLE  4.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY  OF  IMPORTED  SILK  MATERIALS,  AND  OF  IMPORTED  AND  DOJIESTIC 

MANUFACTURED  SILK  GOODS.  1850  TO  1900.' 


FISCAL  YEAR   ENDING   JUNE  30- 


1850.. 
I860.. 
1870., 
1880., 
1881., 

1882. 
1883. 
1884. 
1885. 
1886. 

1887. 
18.S8. 
1.SS9. 
1890. 
1S91. 


1892., 
1893., 
1894., 
1895. 
1896. 

1897. 
1898. 
1899. 
1900. 


IMPORTED  SII.K    MATERIALS. 


Total  cost. 


3401,385 
1,340,676 
3,055,626 
13,385.134 
11.509,008 

13,610,072 
15,269,984 
13,427,851 
13,112,641 
18, 696, 578 

20,079,384 
20,509,092 
19, 990, 955 
25,209,175 
20,897,502 

26, 1.52,  709 
31,175,837 
16,953,572 
23,865,675 
27,762,032 

20,001,899 
33,287,883 
34,442,215 
48,884,987 


Pounds. 


s 120,010 
3  297,877 
583,589 
2,562,236 
2, 550, 103 

2,879,402 
3,253,370 
3, 222,  .546 
3,424,076 
4,7.54,626 

4,. 599, 574 
5, 173, 840 
5, 329, 646 
5, 943, 360 
4, 917, 688 

7,521,342 
7,422.43C 
4,9.56,875 
7,974,810 
8,000,621 

6,513, 612 
10, 315, 162 

9, 691, 145 
11,259,310 


S401,385 
1,340,676 
3,017,958 
12,024,699 
10, 888, 264 

12, 890, 392 
14,0)3,340 
12,481,4% 
12,421,739 
17,232,505 

18,687,245 
19,1.51,208 
18,.M4,025 
23,28,5,099 
17,  994.  654 

24,321,494 
29, 065,  .557 
15, 627, 822 
22, 029, 068 
26, 24G,  902 

18,496,944 
31,446,800 
31,827,061 
44,M9,672 


Spun  silk. 


Pounds. 


7,521 
37,239 
19, 325 

14, 726 
43, 812 
91,750 
78,890 
178, 383 

172,617 
197,139 
274,362 
411,621 
856,706  ! 

489,652  I 
758,502 
437, 428 
843,647 
782,796 

801,336 

956, 974 

1,703,791 

2,336,947 


Cost. 


Raw  silk  waste, 

including  cocoons  and 

noils. 


111,999  1 
60,830  i 

47,296 
126,832 
189, 722 
226,412 
442, 310 

441,299  ; 
578,950 
659,045  1 
883,644  I 
1,821,421 

1,093,384 
1,338,851 

719.  390 
1,239.619 

998,604  t 

1,083,616 
1, 177, 817 
1,962,588 
3,555,227 


Pounds. 


240. 310 

341,867 
1,477,736 
1,062,342 

884,832 
2,063,434 

1,428.517 
1, 196, 482 
1,315,478 
1,567,080 
1,348,941 

1,312,707 
1,075,047 
94.>,  610 
1,341,650 
1,363,366 

1,479,832 
1,772,789 
1,559,238 
1,814,405 


Cost. 


51,248,436 
559, 914 

672,384 

1, 099, 812 

756,633 

4M,490 

1, 021, 763 

950,840 

778,934 

787,8)55 

1,040,432 

1,081,427 

737,831 
781,429 
606,360 
596,988 
516,526 

421.339 
663,266 
652,566 
780,088 


VALUE  OF  MANUFACTURED 
SILK  GOODS. 


Imported.- 


$17,694,658 
32,961,120 
24,219,981 
31,348,948 
32. 316, 396 

38,280,955 
33, 180, 280 
37, 840, 852 
27,880,386 
27, 613, 515 

30,822,978 
32, 363, 678 
34,297,684 
37,363,143 
35,478,966 

30,348,796 
36,.^81,097 
23,441,139 
29, 783, 529 
25, 629, 128 

25,433,477 
21,457,249 
23,063,916 
26,803,534 


Domestic. 


1  Figures  tor  imported  goods,  botii  raw  and  manufactured,  derived  from  reports  of  the  United  States  Treasury  Department. 

2  Not  including  spun  silk. 

5  Estimated  from  current  prices,  only  the  value  being  on  record. 
*Not  separately  reported. 


51,809,476 

6, 607, 771 

12, 210, 662 

41,033,045 


107,256,258 


SILK. 


203 


During  tho  Hscal  yciirs  1898,  1899,  and  I'.tiid  there 
was  imported  an  annual  averagfe  of  10,421, .S7:2  pounds 
of  raw  silk,  valued  at  $:^5,0-il,178.  In  the  census  year 
Ittdu.  as  shown  by  Table  23,  there  were  consumed  in 
the  manufacture  of  silk  goods  and  silk  braids  and  trim- 
mings 9. 7(50,770  pounds  of  raw  silk.  I'osting  $40,721,877. 
Making  allowance  for  the  amount  carried  over  as  raw 
mateiial  from  year  to  year,  and  the  considerable 
quantity  used  by  the  wool  and  cotton  textile  industries, 
tiic  consumption  of  raw  silk  as  obtained  for  this  report 
agrees  closely  with  the  quantities  of  the  imports  as 
reported  by  the  Treasury  Department. 

During  the  year  1880  the  manufactured  silk  goods 
of  all  varieties  imported  into  the  United  States  were 
valued  at  $:51,348.94S  (foreign  value).  The  gross  value 
of  manufactured  silk  products  for  the  United  States 
for  that  year  was  $41,033,045.  In  1890  the  value  of  the 
imports  of  silk  manufactures  was  $37,863,143,  while  the 
gross  value  of  the  domestic  product  was  $87,298,454. 
In  1900  these  values  were  $26,803,549  and  $107,256,258, 
respectively. 

In  1860  the  silk  goods  made  in  the  United  States  as 
compared  with  the  entii-e  consumption  was  onlj'  13  per 
cent.  The  percentage  rose  to  38  in  1880.'  to  55  in  1890,^^ 
and  to  70  in  1900.  In  broad  silk  fabrics  the  domestic 
production  in  1900  was  67.3  per  cent  of  the  total 
estimated  consumption  of  such  goods.  America  now 
produces  85  per  cent  of  the  annual  consumption  of  silk 
ribbons,  the  value  of  imported  ribbons  representing 
only  15  per  cent.  The  classes  of  goods  now  principally 
imported  from  Europe  are  high  novelties,  handmade 
silk  velvets,  and  handmade  silk  laces  which  are  not  as  yet 
made  to  any  appreciable  extent  here.  but.  without  doubt, 
will  ])e  made  in  due  time.  From  Japan  we  are  also 
receiving  Habutai  and  Kaiki  silks  which,  b}'  reason  of 
their  extreme  lightness  in  weight,  have  been  in  con- 
siderable demand  in  the  American  markets.  American 
manufacturers  expect,  however,  that  international  trade 
returns  will  show  a  considerably  diminishing  pei'centage 
of  this  class  of  goods  in  the  next  few  years.  The  census 
tables  show  a  pi'oduction  of  8,970,933  3'ards  of  velvets 
and  plushes  made  in  the  United  States  by  power-loom 
weaving  in  the  census  j^ear.  The  value  of  this  product 
is  $4,959,971,  which  is  55.5  per  cent  of  the  annual  con- 
sumption. The  annual  import  of  foreign  manufactured 
velvets  and  plushes  during  the  census  \ear  was $2,335, - 
576,  foi'eign  invoice  value,  and  allowing  70  per  cent 
additional  for  revenue  duties,  freight,  insurance,  and 
importers'  profits,  we  tind  the  approximate  value  to  the 
consumers  to  be  $3,970,479.  The  present  relative  posi- 
tion of  the  silk  industry  in  the  United  States  in  the 
manufacture  of  broad  silks,  velvets  and  plushes,  and 
ribbons,  to  the  consumption  of  such  silk  goods  annually, 
is  shown  by  the  following  statement: 

'Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States,  Report  on  Silk  Manu- 
facture, by  William  0.  Wyckoff,  special  a^ent,  page  21. 

M'^leventh  Census  of  the  United  States:  Report  on  Manufac- 
turing Industries,  Part  III,  page  215. 


TOTAL. 

BROAD  SILKS.' 

Value. 

Per  cent. 

Value. 

Per  cent. 

Domestic  production 

S7.5,.579,966 
32,439,342 

70.0 
30.0 

$.52,1.52,816 
25,379,0.55 

67  3 

Consumption 

108,019,308 

100.0 

77,531,871 

100  0 

VELVETS  AND  PLUSHES. 

EIBBONS. 

Value. 

Per  cent. 

Value. 

Per  cent. 

$4,959,971 
3,970,479 

55.5 
44.5 

$18,467,179 
3,089,808 

85.7 

Imports  =* 

14  3 

Consumption 

8,930,450 

100.0 

21,556,987 

100.0 

'  Doesnot  include  production  of  tapestry  and  upholstery  silks. value $1,009,835. 
2  Selling  value  to  consumer  by  adding  to  invoice  value  70  per  cent  for  rev- 
enue duties,  freight,  insurance,  and  importers'  profits. 

In  the  above  statement  no  account  is  taken  of  manu- 
factured silk  goods  exported,  such  exports  being 
inconsiderable.  The  domestic  production  of  sewing 
silks  and  machine  twist,  1,465,575  pounds,  valued  at 
$9,274,80(1.  practically  represents  the  entire  Ameri- 
can consumption,  there  being  no  importations  of  any 
consequence. 

MATERIALS    AND    PRODUCTS,   1S90   AND    1900. 

The  growth  of  the  silk  manufacture  during  the  last 
half  of  the  centuiy  has  been  in  keeping  with  the  growth 
of  other  industries,  and  the  returns  of  the  Twelfth  Cen- 
sus indictite  the  continued  prosperity  of  the  industry. 
The  increase  during  the  past  ten  yeai's  in  the  quantity 
and  total  cost  of  the  ditferent  materials  used  and  in  the 
value  of  goods  manufactured  is  shown  in  Table  5. 

Table    5.— COMPARATIVE     SUMMARY     OF    MATERIALS 
AND  PRODUCTS:  1890  AND  1900. 


Number  of  establishments 
Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Raw  silk 


1900 


/pounds.. 

(cost 

Waste   silk,    cocoons,  andlpounds. . 
uoils icost . 


Organzine  and  tram {cost"'^'''" 


spun  silk feds. 

Other  silk  materials {S"*^'' 

Yarns,  other  than  silk {cSS"**'' 

Fuel  and  lent  of  power  and  heat  . . 

All  other  materials,  including  mill 

supplies  and  freight 

Products: 

Total  value 

Organzine  and  tram  made  for  sale. . 

Spun  silk  yarn  made  for  sale 

Machine  twist  and  sewing,  knitting, 
embroidery,  fringe,  floss,  and  wash 
silks  

Dress  goods,  figured  and  plain,  and 
other  silk  broad  goods,  except 
velvets  and  plushes 

Velvets  and  plushes 

Tapestries,  curtains,  and  other  up- 
holstery broad  goods 

Ribbons  and  laces 

Braids  and  bindings 

Dros.'^.il(«ik.millinery,and  military 
trinunifiLis 

All  other  products 

Received  for  contract  work 


483 

$62, 406, 665 

9, 760, 770 

$10,721,877 

1,667,195 

$734,539 

2,338,4t>4 

$10,539,632 

1,550.291 

$3, 406, 059 

74,  MO 

$281,788 

7, 116. 728 

$2, 406, 354 

$684,002 

$3,629,414 

$107, 256, 2.58 

$11,167,191 

$1,026,227 


$10,246,190 


$.52,152,816 
$4,959,971 

51,009,835 
$19, 270, 283 
$1,522,665 

$2, 295, 010 
$1,268,9.50 
$2,337,220 


1890 


472 

$51,004,425 
6, 376, 881 

$26, 0»7, 371 

1,357,618 

$1, 106, 608 

3,305,372 

$16,618,979 

m 
b) 

744,223 

$2, 638. 242 

5,624,960 

$2, 327, 684 

$485, 516 

$1,840,025 

«7, 298, 454 
$16,880,366 
$1,263,489 


$8,917,844 


S22, 955, 750 
$3,141,020 

$3. 712, 332 
$17,343,197 
$2,771,382 

$8, 564, 566 

$1,758,502 

(=) 


Per  cent 

of 
increase. 


22,4 
53.1 
56.1 
22.8 
133.6 
'29.3 
'36.2 


118.3 

89.9 

26.5 

3.4 

40.9 

97.2 

22.9 
'33.8 
'18.8 


iaf.2 
57.9 

'72.8 

11.1 

'45.1 

'73.2 
'27.8 


'  Decrease. 


2  Not  separately  reported. 


204 


MANUFACTURES. 


It  will  he  noted  thsit  Table  5  shows  an  apparent 
decrease  of  29.3  per  cent  in  quantity  and  3l).2  in  cost  of 
org-anzine  and  tram  as  materials  used  and  88.8  per  cent 
in  value  as  products  manufactured.  The  explanation 
for  this  secmino;  anomaly  lies  in  the  fact  that  the  organ- 
zine  and  tram  manufactured  by  commission  or  custom 
throwsters  arc  not  included  in  the  statistics  for  1900 
presented  in  this  report,  either  as  materials  used  or  as 
products  manufactured,  althouuh  so  included  in  1890^ 
Therefore,  in  a  comparison  of  the  two  censuses,  the 
2,331,456  pounds  of  raw  silk  thrown  into  organzine  and 
the  1.967,203  pounds  thrown  into  tram  by  commission 
throwsters  in  1900  should  he  taken  into  consideration. 
As  elsewhere  explained,  the  small  increase  in  the  num- 
ber of  establishments  is  parth'  accounted  for  by  the 
elimination  from  this  report  of  39  braids  and  trim- 
mings and  78  hosiery  and  knit  goods  manufacturers. 

The  industry  has  undergone  many  changes  since  ISoO, 
when  the  variety  of  its  products  was  very  limited. 
The  demands  of  fashion,  the  adaptability  of  silk  to 
fancy  designs,  and  the  varying  proportions  in  which 
silk  may  be  used  with  other  materials  in  fabrics  of  all 
kinds  have  resulted  in  an  almost  unlimited  variety  of 
products.  Much  of  the  silk  spun  is  now  consumed  in 
cotton  and  woolen  mills,  while  the  silk  mills  consume 
large  quantities  of  cotton  and  woolen  yarns. 

There  were  1.667.195  pounds  of  silk  waste  and  noils 
consumed  in  the  industry  in  the  census  year,  from 
which  were  produced  661,292  pounds  of  spun-silk  j-arn. 
Of  this  quantity  437.459  pounds  were  made  for  sale  to 
textile  manufacturers  and  223,833  pounds  consumed  in 


manufacturing  by  the  spinners  of  the  yarn.  .\ddin<; 
1,550,291  pounds  reported  as  spun  silk  used  as  mate- 
rials, there  were  1,774,124  pounds  of  spun  silk  con- 
sumed by  the  silk  industry  in  the  census  year. 

The  quantity  of  spun-silk  yarns  of  tdl  grades  imported 
in  the  fiscal  year  ending  June  30,  1900,  was  2,336,946 
pounds;  adding  thereto  the  amount  made  in  the  United 
States  during  the  census  year,  661,292  pounds,  we  find 
the  total  for  distribution  among  the  textile  industries 
to  be  2,998.238  pounds. 

The  ((uantities  of  raw  silk  and  spun-silk  yanw  con- 
sumed by  the  textile  industries  of  the  United  States 
are  reported  as  follows  for  the  censuses  of  1890  and 
1900: 


RAW 

SILK. 

SPDS-SILK    YAKSS. 

1890 

1900 

1890 

1900 

Silk  manufacture 

Pounds. 
6,376,»81 

32, 851 
166,709 

77, 597 

Pounds. 
9,760,770 

342.425 
70,073 

162.424 

Pounds. 
(■) 
18,583 
88,785 
42,744 

Pound*. 
21  774  124 

218,2.55 
253,811 
103,823 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods 

^Not  reported. 

2Inclttdes  223,8.13  pounds  remanufactured  into  other  silk  goods  by  the  spin- 
ners. 

aincluding  woolen  goods,  worsted  goods,  fur  hats,  felt  goods,  and  carpets. 

Table  6  indicates  the  extent  of  the  further  interchange 
of  tibers  for  the  silk  industry,  and  shows  the  quantity 
and  cost  of  the  dilierent  textile  materials  reported  at 
the  censuses  of  1890  and  1900  and  the  cost  of  all  other 
materials  (fuel,  mill  supplies,  etc.),  and  the  percentage 
which  each  item  forms  of  the  total. 


T.^BLE  6.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY  OF  MATERIALS:  1890  AND  1900. 


Total  materials. 


Silk  materials 

Textile  yarns  other  than  silk  . 


Cotton  yam 

Mercerized  cotton  yarn  . 

Wool  yarn .' 

Mohair  yarn 

Other  yams 

All  other  materials 


MATERIALS  USED. 


Pounds. 


22,507,488 


15,390,760 
7, 116, 728 


6.444,208 
219,  .Wl 
239, 461 
104,810 
108,388 


1890 


17,409,054 


11,784,094 
5, 624, 960 


Cost. 


1900 


S62, 406, 665 


55,636,895 
2,406,354 


1,830,550 
16.5.683 
167.770 
107, 365 
134,986 

4,313,416 


1890 


851,004,425 


46,351,200 
2, 327, 684 


PEK  CENT  OF  TOTAL. 


Pounds. 


1900 


100.0 


68.4 
31.6 


('1 


2,325,541 


28.6 
1.0 
1.1 
0.4 
0.5 


1890 


100.0 


67.7 
32.3 


Cost. 


1900 

1810 

lOO.O 

100.0 

89.2 
3.9 

90.9 
4.6 

2.9 
0.3 
0.3 
0.2 
0.2 
6.9 

4.5 

1  Not  reported  separately  in  1890. 


Table  6  shows  but  slight  differences  in  the  several 
percentages  at  the  two  census  periods.  Owing  to  the 
high  cost  of  silk  per  pound,  the  textile  yarns  other  than 
silk  form  a  much  smaller  percentage  of  the  total  cost 
of  materials  than  of  the  total  quantity. 

The  statistics  for  1890,  as  presented  in  this  table, 
show  that  esfciblishments  engaged  in  the  manufacture 
of  silk  and  silk  goods  used  silk  materials  (raw.  waste, 
spun,  organzine.  tram,  etc.)  and  yarns  other  than 
silk  amounting   to  17,409,054  pounds.     Of  this  total 


quantity,  silk  materials  formed  67.7  per  cent  and  yarns 
other  than  silk  82.3  per  cent.  In  1900  the  same  cla.ss 
of  materials  amounted  to  22.507,488  pounds,  of  which 
quantity  silk  materials  formed  68.4  per  cent  and  yarns 
other  than  silk  31.6  per  cent.  The  total  cost  of  these 
materials  in  1890  was  ^8.678,884,  of  which  co.<t  silk 
formed  95.2  per  cent  and  yarns  other  than  silk  4.8  per 
cent,  while  the  cost  in  1900  was  $58,093,249,  of  which 
amount  silk  formed  95.9  percent  and  yarns  other  than 
silk  4.1  per  cent. 


SILK. 


205 


SEWING    SILK    AND   MACHINE   TWIST. 

Connecticut  continues  in  tlie  lead  in  the  production 
of  .sewing  silk.s  and  luaciiine  twist,  its  proportion  being 
47.1  per  cent  of  tiie  total  (luantity  manufactured. 
Massachusetts  is  second,  its  proportion  being  30  per 
cent.  These  two  states  produced  77.1  per  cent  of  the 
total  annual  output  of  this  class  of  goods.  The  follow- 
ing statement  shows  the  output  in  pounds,  ioi'  the 
census  _year,  of  the  several  states  in  the  order  of  their 
importance  as  manufacturers  of  these  products: 


Total. 

Sewing, 
embroid- 
ery, and 
wash  silks. 

Machine 
twist. 

Uni tefl  States 

Pounds. 
1,465,575 

Pounds. 
477, 658 

Pounds. 
987  917 

Connecticut 

690,455 
439,  664 
124, 535 
117,951 
65, 028 
27,942 

145,032 
170,423 
64,000 
74,476 
18,528 
5,200 

545,423 
269,241 
60  535 

Michigan             .... 

Pennsylvania 

43, 476 
46,500 
22  742 

New  Yorlc 

California 

There  is  very  little  competition  from  abroad  with 
domestic  manufacturers  of  sewing  silk  and  machine 
twist.  In  fact,  the  United  States  product  is  universally 
acknowledged  as  superior  in  finish  and  puritj-  of  dye  to 
that  of  any  other  countr}',  chiefly  because  only  the  best 
Japan  and  China  filatures,  dyed  unweighted,  are  used.  It 
is  noteworthy  that  at  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1900,  the 
grand  prix  d'honneur,  the  highest  award  given,  was 
awarded  to  an  American  exhi])itor  of  this  class  of  silks. 

Among  the  most  important  changes  in  the  methods 
of  business  in  this  branch  of  the  indu-stry  during  the 
past  decade  are  the  following: 

1.  An  increase  in  the  use  of  machine  twist  for  manu- 
facturing purposes  has  been  effected  by  shortening  the 
lengths  from  1-ounce  or  large  spools  to  200  and  100 
yard  spools.  While  this  is  a  decided  convenience  and 
benefit  to  the  smaller  manufacturing  trade,  it  entails 
greater  cost  to  the  silk  manufacturer  in  the  additional 
spooling  and  spools  and  in  preparing  the  goods  for  the 
market.  In  the  early  days  of  the  industry — say  forty 
3' ears  ago — sewing  silk  was  universally  put  up  in  skeins, 
but  with  the  introduction  of  sewing  machines  and  their 
use  in  the  manufacture  of  clothing  and  shoes,  that 
practice  is  now  a  thing  of  the  past,  fully  99  per  cent  of 
all  machine  and  sewing  silk  being,  at  this  time,  put  up 
on  spools. 

2.  A  decided  tendency  toward  finer  sizes  of  thread. 
Formerl}^  the  average  size  used  was  aiiout  size  A,  rep- 
resenting 1,000  j'ards  per  ounce.  To-day  the  principal 
goods  sold  are  double  0  (00),  representing  1,600  yards 
per  ounce. 

While  these  changes  have  been  a  benefit  to  the  con- 
sumer, they  subject  the  silk  manufacturer  to  the  addi- 
tional expense  of  spooling  up  90  or  192  spools  instead 
of  12,  and  to  the  further  disadvantage  of  being  able  to 


"throw"  only  .300  pounds  of  00  in  the  time  sufficient 
to  "throw" -ISO  pounds  .\.  The  iiKreusing  quantities 
used  in  the  manufiicture  of  clothing  and  leather  goods 
necessitates  the  use  of  an  increased  quantity  of  fine  sizes 
for  certain  parts  of  the  work. 

These  conmiercial  changes,  which  are  a  direct  loss  to 
the  manufacturer  tlirough  the  increase  of  his  expense 
account,  are  indicative  of  his  controlling  desire  to  lead 
the  trade  in  the  direction  of  greater  economies  in  the 
distribution  of  his  product,  and  for  that  reason  are 
noteworthy. 

About  two-thirds  of  the  output  of  machine  twist  is 
sold  to  manufacturers  of  clothing,  shoes,  cloaks,  etc., 
one-third  being  sold  to  the  dry-goods  trade  in  small 
wares,  such  as  spool  silks  for  the  retail  dressmaking 
trade.  The  manufacturing  trade  absorbs  about  one- 
half  of  sewings,  the  remaining  one-half  t)eing  sold  as 
small  wares  in  embroidery  silks,  knittings,  and  wash 
embroidery  silks.  The  sale  of  embroidery  silks  has 
increased  phenomenally  during  the  decade,  owing  to 
the  great  vogue  of  art  embroideries  for  decorative 
purposes. 

Other  noticeable  features  of  the  decade  have  been 
marked  improvements  in  the  luster  and  evenness  of  the 
thread,  firmness  of  the  twist,  and  great  variety  of  bril- 
liant, plain,  and  omlire  or  shaded  colors,  perfectly 
blended.  In  sewing  silks  alone  a  full  assortment  of 
colors  now  runs  up  to  200. 

The  following  statement  illustrates  the  growth  of 
this  branch  of  the  industry,  and  gives  the  percentage  of 
increase  in  quantities  produced  since  the  census  of  1860: 


CENSUS  YEAR. 

Pounds. 

Value  of 
product. 

Per  cent 

of  in- 
crease in 
quantity. 

1850 

(')         251,209,426 
409  429            fM 

1860 

1870 

.^6,621 

» 791,. 125 

n,  119. 825 

1, 465, 575 

6, 783,  a55 
7,068,213 
9,274,800 

26.2 

1880 

53  2 

1890 

41.5 

1900 

30.9 

1  Not  reported  separately. 

-  All  sewing  silk;  machine  twist  first  made  in  1852, 

^Sewing  silk  and  machine  twist  only. 


BROAD   SILK    WEAVING. 


The  salient  features  of  the  development  of  broad  silk 
weaving  in  the  United  States  during  the  past  decade  are 
four  in  number: 

1.  The  production  of  silk  taffetas  in  both  black  and 
colors  by  power  looms.  This  method  of  producing  these 
goods  was  first  employed  in  the  United  States,  the  pro- 
duction being  on  a  scale  of  sufficient  commercial  impor- 
tance to  entitle  this  country  to  credit  for  its  success. 
Later,  power  loom  weaving  of  taffetas  was  adopted  in 
Europe  as  a  profitable  commercial  proposition.  For- 
eign countries  are  now,  therefore,  close  competitors  in 
the  manufacture  of  these  goods,  but  the  credit  of  origi- 
nal achievement  remains  with  the  United  States.     The 


206 


^lANUFACTUHES. 


iinportunce  of  this  fact  is  best  realized  wIkmi  we  con- 
sider that  fully  one-half  of  the  fabrics  produced  to-day 
in  the  United  States  on  silk  power  looms  are  jjroperly 
included  in  the  "tatieta"  class. 

2.  While  a  small  proportion  of  the  hifjh-class  ■"  fan- 
cies" consumed  in  this  country  is  of  French  orioin.  the 
great  bulk  is  made  by  domestic  mills.  \\'e  are  indebted 
for  this  result  to  the  energy  and  versatility  of  the  man- 
ufacturers, who  during  the  last  decade  seized  upon  the 
possibility  of  reproducing  here  the  grades  of  French 
and  Swiss  "fancies."  which  by  their  attractiveness  dom- 
inated the  American  market.  AVe  have  succeeded  in 
manufacturing  every  variety  of  checks,  stripes,  and  fig- 
ured goods  (Jacquards)  in  popular  grades.  The  Amer- 
ican silk  indu.stry  can  fairly  claim  to  be  unexcelled  at 
the  present  time  in  the  production  of  this  class  of  goods. 

3.  Marked  progress  in  the  manufacture  of  piece-dyed 
goods  woven  with  raw-silk  warps.  Continually  expand- 
ing facilities  for  piece  dyeing  in  silk  manufacturing 
establishments  and  in  dyehouses  have  largely  increased 
the  output  of  this  description  of  fabrics.  Both  piece 
dyeing  and  printing  have  been  for  many  years  features 
of  the  foremost  silk  manufacturing  establishment  in 
the  United  States,  but  recent  favoring  circumstances 
have  given  a  great  impetus  to  these  branches  of  the 
industry.  At  the  present  time  piece-dyed  and  printed 
goods  of  domestic  manufacture  have  largely  replaced 
the  imports  from  Europe.  Formerly  the  European 
productions  were  printed  exclusively  in  Europe.  As  a 
consequence  of  the  American  tarifl'.  European  manu- 
facturers have  been  shipping  a  consideral)le  quantity 
of  their  goods  to  this  side  in  the  raw  or  gum  to  be 
printed.  At  the  present  time  both  the  manufacture 
and  the  printing  of  the  fabric  are  so  successfully  accom- 
plished in  the  United  States  that  the  domestic  produc- 
tion dominates  our  own  markets  in  these  .specialties. 

■i.  Under  pressure  of  sharp  competition,  both  foreign 
and  domestic,  American  manufacturers  have  been  com- 
pelled to  study  more  closely  the  intricate  details  of 

Table  7.— BROAD-SILK  WEAVING  MILLS, 


manufacturing  and  to  master  the  economies  developed 
abroad  by  experience  and  long  practiced  there. 

Warp-print  fabrics  have  also  been  manufactured  to 
a  large  extent  in  the  United  States  during  the  past 
ten  years,  both  in  broad  silks  and  in  ribbons.  Warp- 
print  goods,  including  tie  silks  made  in  this  country, 
have  reached  such  a  degree  of  perfection  that  at  the 
Paris  Exposition  of  1900  gold  medals  were  awarded  to 
two  American  exhibitors  of  these  fabrics. 

A  similar  award  was  also  made  to  an  American  ex- 
hibitor of  plain  black  silks  for  the  superior  weave  and 
fini.sh  of  the  fabric. 

A  striking  feature  of  the  industry  is  the  increase  in 
the  number  of  power  looms  and  the  decrease  in  hand 
looms.  The  following  statement  presents  the  number 
of  power  and  hand  looms  at  each  census  from  1880  to 
1900,  inclusive: 


Power  looms  on  broad  goods  . . 
Power  looms  on  narrow  goods . 
Hand  looms  on  broad  goods  . . . 
Hand  looms  on  narrow  go<  kIs  . 


1880 


3,103 
•2.218 
1.629 
1,524 


1890 


14,866 

5,9.56 

413 

1,334 


1900 


36,820 

7,432 

164 

9 


The  power  looms  used  on  broad  goods  in  1900  were 
classified  as  follows: 

Plain  looms,  36  inche.s  or  over,  reed  space 13,  077 

Plain  looms,  under  36  inches,  reed  space 16, 161 

Jacquard  broad  looms 7, 587 

Table  7  presents  a  suuimary,  bj^  states,  of  establish- 
ments classified  according  to  the  number  of  looms 
operating  on  broad  silk  goods,  not  including  broad 
looms  on  velvets  and  plushes,  during  the  census  year. 
It  .should  be  noted  that  where  several  mills  in  the  same 
stpte  are  operated  by  one  firm  they  are  treated  as  one 
establishment  and  classified  according  to  the  combined 

total  of  looms. 

Velvets. — One  of  the  notable  developments  of  the 
past  decade,  realizing  the  earlier  ambitions  of  the  Amer- 

CLASSIFIED  BY  NUMBER  OF  LOOMS:  1900. 


Total 
number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

ESTABLISHMENTS   CLASSIFIED  BY  NtJMBEK  OF  BROAD  LOOMS. 

Total 

STATES. 

Under 
60. 

50  and 

under 

150. 

150  and 

under 

250. 

250  and 
under 
■    500. 

600  and 

under 

750. 

750  and 
under 
1,000. 

1.000  and 
under 
1.250. 

1,250  and 
over. 

number 

of  broad 

looms. 

239 

87 

81 

29 

31 

5 

2 

3 

1 

35,446 

1.  New  Jersey; 

84 
31 
56 
39 
5 

6 
4 
1 
2 

1 
1 
2 
1 

1 
2 
2 

1 

26 
10 
19 
20 

36 

8 

14 

12 

2 

2 

11 
2 

10 
5 

10 
8 
8 
2 
2 

1 

1 
2 

10,475 

2 

7,077 

2 

1 

10,662 

2,867 

1 

1,891 

3 
3 



1 

896 

1 

B33 

1 

209 

1 

1 

1 
1 

2 

i 

1 

191 

147 

144 

t 

1-25 

1 

120 

62 

2 
2 

1 

34 

8 

2 

SILK. 


207 


ican  .silk  manufacturer.^,  ha.s  been  the  munufaeture  of 
velvet  in  tlii.s  countrv  on  a  l>ayiny  ))asis.  The  Ameriean 
consumption  of  v<'l\('ts  ami  plusiics  is  not  .so  large  as 
that  of  other  weaves.  It  is  estimated  at  a  value  of 
$K,!t;:!().4r)0  annually,  but  when  we  realize  that  mills  in 
the  United  States  are  now  supplying  55.5  per  cent  of 
this  amount  it  becomes  evident  that  the  problem  of 
successful  production  is  being  solved.  The  develop- 
ment during  the  past  decade  has  been  principally  along 
the  lines  of  medium  grades  of  black  and  colored  velvets, 
used  largely  for  millinery  and  dress  trimmings.  In 
these  grades  the  United  States  is  now  supplying  75  per 
cent  of  the  trade  consumption.  There  is  a  growing 
tendency  to  decided  improvement  in  the  better  grades; 
also  in  the  successful  manipulation  of  ■"  panne"  velvets, 
and  in  various  styles  of  fanc}'  velvets,  such  as  checks, 
stripes,  and  figures.  The  yardage  of  velvets  produced  in 
the  census  year  was  5,12:i,::!i;>  yards,  the  i-eported  value 
at  the  factory  being  12,479,903. 

Germany  has  been  most  seriously  afl'ected  by  the  com- 
petition of  the  United  States  in  the  last  ten  years.  Lyon 
has  well  held  its  own,  on  account  of  its  new  fabrics, 
styled  "  velours  panne"  and  "velours  mousseline."  Its 
supremacy  over  Crefeld  is  due  in  fact  to  its  higher 
grades  of  velvet,  produced  by  using  pure  silk  instead  of 
spun  silk  and  I'otton.  Lyon  continues  to  excel  and  con- 
trol the  bulk  of  the  trade  in  all  pile  fabrics  where  the 
material  is  reeled  silk. 

The  relative  importance  of  the  velvet  trade  with  the 
United  States  from  these  foreign  centers  is  shown  by 
the  following  figures  of  their  exports  to  the  United 
States  for  the  past  four  years. ' 


YEAR. 

From 
Lyon,  vel- 
vets and 
plushes. 

From  Cre- 
feld, silk 
velvets. 

From  Cre- 
feld, cot- 
ton velvets. 

1897 

8328,070 
345,  717 
304,912 
498,  558 

81,263,142 
601,849 
631,256 
802,876 

8194,450 

1898 

153,  855 
174  675 

1899 

1900 

235,711 

Plushes. — The  production  of  plushes  amounted  to 
3,84:8,684  yards,  the  factory  value  being  $2,480,068. 
The  relative  positions  of  velvets  aud  plushes  as  to  the 
quantity  of  each  manufactured  have  been  rever.sed  dur- 
ing the  past  decade.     Ten  years  ago  the  seal  plush  and 

'Exports  Declared  for  the  United  States,  quarterly  publication 
United  States  Department  of  State. 


upholstery  plush  industry  in  the  United  States  was  in  a 
flourishing  condition,  and  continued  so  for  some  time; 
Imt  in  I'.iOO  it  was  much  less  so,  and  at  the  time  of  writ- 
ing this  report  the  seal  plush  industry  especially  has 
suffered  yet  greater  decline.  The  census  of  1890  re- 
ported a  product  of  velvets  and  plushes  valued  at 
$3,141,026,  but  though  no  separate  classification  of  the 
two  items  was  then  made,  it  was  recognized  that  the 
output  of  plushes  largely  exceeded  that  of  velvets.' 
At  this  census  the  yardage  and  factor}^  cost  of  both 
descriptions  of  goods  are  given. 

Seal  plushes  are  used  in  the  cloak,  cape,  cap,  and 
trimmings  trades.  Sharp  domestic  competition  finally 
reduced  prices  materially,  but  the  benefit  to  consumers 
was  of  comparatively  brief  duration.  Cheaper  and  3'et 
cheaper  grades  of  goods  were  made  until,  fashion  no 
longer  favoring  the  fabric,  the  demand  declined  as 
.stated.  The  importation  of  these  goods  from  England, 
where  formerly  the  largest  proportion  of  them  was 
manufactured,  has  now  entirely  cea,sed. 

The  development  of  broad  goods  weaving  in  the 
United  States  is  best  illustrated  by  a  comparison  of  the 
production  of  such  goods  in  each  census  year  since  1870, 
which  is  shown  in  the  following  statement,  presenting 
the  yardage,  the  value,  and  the  per  cent  of  increase  in 
the  quantity  of  broad  silk  goods  manufactured  in  the 
United  States  at  the  periods  mentioned,  including  tap- 
estry and  upholstery  silks,  velvets,  and  plushes,  and 
embracing  all  silk  goods  and  silk-mixed  fabrics  (woven 
on  broad  loom.s)  in  which  silk  is  the  material  of  chief 
value. 


CENSUS   YEAR. 

Yards. 

Value  of 
products. 

Per  cent 

of  in- 
crease in 
quantity. 

1870 

1,026,422 
10,856,284 
37,648,220 
97, 940, 935 

(') 
811,224,895 
29.809.108 
68, 122, 622 

1880 

957  7 

1890 

1900  ' 

246.8 
160  2 

^  Not  reported  separately. 

2  The  census  of  1900  separates  the  vardage  and  value  as  follows:  All  silk, 
68.437,218  yards,  valued  at  842,573,279;  and  silk  mixed,  29,603.717  yards,  valued  at 
815,549,343. 

Table  8  presents,  in  detail,  the  production  of  broad 
silk  goods  by  yardage,  value,  and  average  value  per 
yard  for  the  United  States  during  the  census  j'^ear. 

-Eleventh  Census  of  the  United  States,  Report  on  Manufactur- 
ing Industries,  Part  III,  page  217. 


T.^BLE  8.— SILK  BROAD  GOODS  MANUFACTURED:  1900. 


TOTA  L. 

ALL-SILK  BEGAD  GOODS. 

SILK-MIXED    BROAD  GOODS. 

CLASSES. 

Quantity 
(yards). 

Value. 

Average 

value 
per  yard 

(cents). 

Quantity 

(yards). 

Value. 

Average 

value 
per  yard 
(cents). 

Quantity 
(yards). 

Value. 

Average 

value 
per  yard 

(cents). 

Total 

97,940,935 

858,122,622 

59.3 

68,437,218 

$42,573,279 

62.2 

29,503,717 

$15,W9,343 

62.7 

62,536,803 
9,209,695 

15, 890, 385 
5,122,249 
3,848,684 
1,333,119 

39,302,821 
6,639,322 
6,210,673 
2, 479,  903 
'2,480,068 
1,009,835 

62.8 
72.1 
39.1 
48.4 
64.4 
75.7 

63,573,488 
7,532,229 
7,331,501 

33,852,111 
5,379,001 
3,342,167 

63.2 
71.4 
45.6 

8,963,315 
1,677,466 
8,558,884 
5,122,249 
3,848,684 
1,333,119 

5,450,710 
1,260,321 
2,868,606 
2,479,903 
2, 480, 068 
1,009,835 

60.8 

Jacquards 

75.1 

Piece-dyed  . . 

33.6 

Velvets 

48.4 

Plushes 

64.4 

Tapestry  and  upholstery 

75.7 

208 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  9  presents  a  sumniurv.  by  states,  of  estublish- 
uients  clas8itied  according  to  number  of  looms  operating 
on  velvets  and  plushes. 

T.Mii.E  9.— VELVET  AND  PLUSH  WEAVING  MILLS,  CLAS- 
SIFIED BY  NUMBER  OF  LOOMS:  1900. 


Total 
num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

ESTABLISHMENTS   CLASSIFIED 
BY   Nf.MBEB   OF   LOOMS. 

Total 
number 

of 
looms. 

STATES. 

Under 
50. 

50  and 
under 
150. 

150  and 

under 

250. 

250  and 
over. 

15 

4 

8 

1 

2 

1,543 

6 
4 
2 

2 

i 

1 

2' 

4 
1 
9 

1 

1 

1 

787 

499 

153 

4.  New  Jersey: 

t 

1             1 

1            SO 

Outside  of  Paterson 

1 

i 

18 

SILK   RIBBONS. 

Awards  of  gold  and  silver  medals  were  made  at  the 
Paris  Exposition  of  1900  to  American  manufacturers  of 
plain  and  faconne  ribbons. 

The  invention  of  the  high-speed  ribbon  loom,  about 
ten  _years  ago,  was  a  great  advance  over  the  so-called 
''Swiss"  and  "German"  power  looms  which  were  used 
exclusively  in  this  country  up  to  1S89.  The  new  loom 
was  first  made  in  the  United  States,  and  in  the  last  few 
j-ears  has  reached  a  high  state  of  perfection.  Ease 
in  leveling  the  harness,  handling  the  warps,  and  the 
positive  control  of  the  take-up.  which  enable  the  looms 
to  be  run  at  continuous  high  speed,  are  the  marked  fea- 
tures of  this  invention.  It  has  furnished  occupation 
for  a  new  class  of  labor,  women  being  now  generally 
and  profitably  employed  in   this    particular  grade  of 


work,  whereas  on  the  looms  foi-merly  in  us(»  male  labor 
was  a  necessity. 

It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  equipment  of  rib- 
bon machinery  in  the  United  States  is  now  equal  to  any 
commercial  demand  that  may  be  made  upon  it  in  turn- 
ing out  all  articles  of  ribbon  known  to  the  trade. 

The  ribbon  looms  reported  were  classified  as  follows: 
Total 7,  441 


German  looms,  warps  on  top 4, 471 

High-speed  looms -,  105 

Jacquards 856 

Hand  looms 9 

Table  10  presents  a  summar3%  by  state.s,  of  establish- 
ments classified  according  to  number  of  looms  operat- 
ing on  ribbons. 

Table  lO.— SILK  RIBBON  WEAVING  MILLS,  CLASSIFIED 
BY  NUMBER  OF  LOOMS:   1900. 


Total 
num- 
ber of 

estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

ESTABLISHMENTS  CLASSIFIED 
BY   NUMBER  OF  LOOMS. 

Total 

STATES. 

Un- 
der 
50. 

50 
and 
under 
150. 

1.50       200 
and     and 
under  under 
200.     300. 

500 
and 
over. 

number 

of 
looms. 

United  States 

115 

65 

39 

5 

5 

1| 

7,441 

1.  New  Jersey: 

37 
5 
31 
35 
5 
1 
1 

19 
4 
16 
23 
3 

12 
1 
12 
10 
2 
1 
1 

3 

3 

1 


2,655 

261 

2 



...... 

1 

2, 248 

3    Penn^vlvania     .  . 

1,788 

291 

144 

51 

THROWING    SPINDLES. 


Table  11  presents  a  summary,  by  states,  of  establish 
ments  classified  according  to  number  of  orgauzine  and 
tram  spindles. 


Table  11.— MILLS  CL.\SSIFIED  BY  NUMBER  OF  THROWING  SPINDLES:  1900. 


Total 
number 
of  estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

ESTABLISHMENTS  CLASSIFIED   BY   NUMBER  OF  THROWING  SPINDLES. 

Total 

STATES. 

Under 
2,500. 

2,500 
and 
under 
5,000. 

5,000 
and 
under 
7,500. 

7,500 

and 

under 

10,000. 

10.000 

and 

under 

12,500. 

12,.500 
and 
under 
15,000. 

15,000 

and 

under 

20,000. 

20.000 

and 

under 

25,000. 

25,000 

and 

under 

40,000. 

40,000 

and 

under 

45,000. 

45.000 

and 

under 

50,000. 

75.000 
and 
over. 

number 
of  throw- 
ing spin- 
dles. 

United  States 

121 

35 

21 

21 

13 

8 

3 

5 

8 

3 

1 

2 

1 

1,015,304 

1.  Pennsylvania 

45 

29 
13 

12 

3 

3 

1 
5 

3  8 

7  1            7 
2               1 

4  3 

'            1 

2    

7 

2 

2' 

4 

1 
2 

2 

i' 

4 

1 

5 

2 

1 

1 

1 

1 

611,670 

2.  New  Jersey: 

171,410 

1 

1 

104,106 

47,961 

1 

31,306 

9 

1 

1 

29,fi62 

2 
2 
1 

1 

1 
1 
1 
1 

1 

1 



28.372 

7    North  Uftrolinfl 

i           1 

i 

1 

i' 

1 
1 

1 

9,680 

1 

1 

1 

3,408 

3,264 

2, 622 

1,104 

12    Marvland 

648 

1 

88 

1"" 1 '"[                I 

The  number  of  throwing  spindles  reported  for  this 
census,  as  shown  in  Table  11.  is  l,0i5,30i;  these  spin- 
dles are  classified  as  follows: 

Organzine,  first  time  over 582, 180 

Orj;anzine,  second  time  over 345, 145 

Tram  spindles 117,979 


The  total  number  of  accessory  spindles,  as  shown  in 
Table  23,  is  942,100,  making  an  aggregate  of  1.987,404, 
as  against  1,087,395  similar  spindles  in  lS90and  -±26,530 
in  18S0. 

Of  the  total  number  of  throwing  spindles  reported  at 


SILK. 


209 


this  censu.s,  58.5  per  cent  were  located  in  Penn.sylvania, 
the  center  of  the  throwing  Industry.  It  will  be  noticed 
that  20  establishments  of  the  45  reported  in  this  state 
operate  more  than  10,0U()  spindles,  and  one  as  high  as 
75,000  spindles. 

American  "throwing"  is  done  principally  on  belt 
spinners  which  are  run  from  11,000  to  12,000  turns 
a  minute  on  lirst  time  over  and  9,000  on  second  time 
over.  The  machines  and  organizations  are  inferior  to 
none. 

A  review  of  the  improvements  effected  in  the  past 
decade  in  "throwing"  machineiy  will  be  found  ap- 
pended. 

FINISHED    SILK    GOODS. 

Owing  to  the  differences  in  the  schedules  of  inquiry 
and  in  the  methods  employed  at  the  several  censuses, 
and  the  changing  conditions  in  the  industry,  necessi- 
tating changes  in  the  classitication  of  the  manufactured 
products,  it  is  not  possible  to  present  a  table  giving 
comparable  items  of  production  for  this  and  preceding 
censuses. 

At  this  census  the  aim  has  been  to  indicate  the  pro- 
duction by  quantities  (yardage  and  pounds)  so  far  as 
was  possible,  as  comparison  by  values  is  frequently 
misleading,  owing  to  changes  in  the  price  of  merchan- 
dise. The  classitication  of  the  products  of  the  loom  by 
their  commercial  designations  as  fabrics,  which  was  em- 
ployed in  former  censu-ses,  has  been  abandoned,  for  the 
reason  that  considerable  quantities  are  now  woven  and 
sold  in  the  grey,  even  the  sellers,  for  example,  not 
knowing  whether  the  fabrics  would  be  finished  for  dress 
goods,  cloak  linings,  hat  linings,  or  millineiT,  etc.  By 
the  method  adopted  the  yardage  of  all  silk  fabrics  or 
silk-mixed  goods  is  shown  for  1900.  For  this  reason 
comparison  of  production  with  previous  censuses  is 
difficult  as  to  special  articles,  but  it  is  believed  that  the 
change  is  a  wise  one,  as  the  former  classification  is  no 
longer  practicable.  The  following  statements  present 
for  1880,  1890,  and  1900,  respectivel}-,  the  quantities 
and  values  of  the  finished  or  merchantable  products: 

Finished  Goods  for  the  Census  Year  1880.' 


Total  value 


Quantity. 


821,528  pounds  . 


-10,856,284  yards. 


Sewing  silk 

ilttchine  twist 

Floss  silk 

Dress  goods 

Satins 

Tit'  silks  and  scarfs 

Millinery  silks 

Other  broad  goods 

Handkerchiefs 

2ic^:';i;::;:::::::::::::;:::::::::::;::.:::::::;l^i^^.95i  yards. 

Braids  and  bindings ' 

Fringes  and  dress  trimmings 

Cords,  taj^sels,  jjassenienteries,  and    millinery 

trimmings 

Upholstery  and  military  trimmings 

Coach  lace  and  carriage  trimmings 

Undertakers',  hatters',  and  fur  trimmings 

Mixed  goods  and  silk  values  therein 


Value. 


$34, 519, 723 


776, 120 

6,007,735 

•225, 025 

4,115,205 

1,101,875 

606, 675 

891,955 

627, 595 

3, 881,. 590 

6,023.100 

437,000 

999, 685 

4, 950,  -275 

1,860,575 

1,392,335 

37,  .510 

59, 805 

519, 643 


'  Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States.  Report  on  Silk  Manufacture,  by  William 
C.  Wyekoff,  special  agent,  pages  25  and  26. 


Finished  Goods  for  the  Censl's  Ye.-vr  1890.' 


Quantity. 

Value. 

Total  value 

S69,164,599 

1.119,825  pounds.. 
3'29,637  pounds 

37,(«,S,2-20  yards... 

Machine  twist  and  sewing  silk 

Fringe,  knitting,  embroidery,  and  floss  silk 

Dresvs  goods,  figures  and  plain 

7,068,213 

1,849,631 

f  15, 183, 134 

3,011,4.37 

919,919 

■    l,92S.o:)6 

1,913,2'24 
3,141,0-26 

471,324 
1  330  'W 

Tailors' linings 

Tie  silks  and  scarfs 

other  broad  t'-"Hls 

Handkerchiefs 

Velvets  and  plushes 

Upholstery  goods: 

Curtains 

Tapestries 

Other  upholstery  goods 

1,910,721 

f  17,081,447 

\        '261, 7.50 

2,771,382 

3, 918, '209 

4,403,757 

232, 600 

Ribbons 

^5,737,211  pieces.. 

Laces 

Braids  and  bindings 

Gimps  and  trimmings 

Dress  and  cloak  trimmings 

Military  trimmings 

Hosiery  and  knit  goods: 

Shirts  and  drawers 

.. 

Hosiery 

141  1S3 

Mittens,  gloves,  etc 

897  904 

Jersey  cloth 

90,661 
602,330 

other  producta 

1  Eleventh  Census  of  the  United  States,  Report  on  Manufacturing  Industries. 
Part  III,  pages  213  and  214. 


Finished  Goods  for  the  Census  Ye.vr  1900. 


Total  value. 


Machine  twist 

Sewing,  embroidery,  and  wash  silks  . 
Fringe  and  floss  silks 


Broad  goods,  total . 


Broad  silks,  all  silk,  and  silk  mixed; 

Plain  and  fancies 

Jaequards 

Piece-dyed 

Velvets 

Plushes 

Upholstery  and  tapestry 


Ribbons 

Laces,  nets,  veils,  veilings,  etc 

Braids  and  bindings 

Dress,  cloak,  millinery,  and  military  trimmings. 
All  other  products 


Quantitj-. 


987. 917  potmds  . . . 

477. 658  pounds  . . . 

193. 659  pounds  . . . 

97, 940, 935  yards  .. 


62, 536, 803  yards. 
9, 209, 695  yards  .. 
15, 890, 385' yards  . 
5, 122, 249  yards  . . 
3, 848, 684  yards  . . 
1,333, 119  vards  .. 


$92,451,212 


5,997,974 

3. -276,  826 

696, 982 


58, 125, 622 


39, 302, 821 
6,  639,  322 
6,210,673 
2,479,903 
2,480,068 
1,009,835 

18, 467, 179 

803, 104 

1,,5'22..565 

2, 295, 010 

1,268,950 


COMPARATIVE    STATISTICS    BY    STATES. 

Table  13  is  a  comparative  summary,  by  states,  for 
1880.  1890,  and  1900,  of  the  data  reported  under  the 
principal  heads  of  the  inquiry. 

In  considering  the  comparative  statistics  shown  in 
Table  12,  it  should  be  understood  that  the  omission  of 
silk  hosiery  and  knit  goods,  and  of  braids  and  trim- 
mings in  which  silk  was  a  material  of  minor  value, 
reduces  the  increase  between  1890  and  1900.  The  large 
decrease  in  New  York  during  the  last  decade  is  due,  in 
part,  to  this  omission,  which  affects,  more  or  less,  the 
statistics  for  the  other  states.  A  noticeable  feature 
shown  in  Table  12  is  the  practical  disappearance  of 
hand  looms  and  the  marked  increase  in  power  looms. 
The  number  of  spindles  has  increased,  since  1880,  363.6 
per  cent. 

The  five  leading  states  in  silk  manufacture  at  the  last 
three  censuses  were  New  Jer.sey,  Pennsylvania,  New 
York,  Connecticut,  and  Massachusetts.     The  relative 


MON- 


-TEXT- 


-U 


210 


MANUFACTUKES. 


rank  of  these  states  with  respect  to  the  principal  items  Of 
information  presented  in  the  table  varied  slightly  from 


time  to  time  as  shown  in  ilie  following  statement,  the 
number  indicating  the  rank: 


STATES. 

Nl'MBEK   OF 
ESTABI.1SH.MENTS. 

CAPITAL. 

AVERAGE  NUMBER 
OFWAGK-EARNERS. 

WAGES. 

COST  OF 
MATEBIALS  USED. 

VALUE  OF 
PKOOUCTS. 

1900 

1S90 

1880 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1000 

1890 

1880 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1900 

1890 

1880 

1900 

1800 

1880 

1 
2 
3 
4 

5 

2 
3 

1 
4 
5 

2' 

3 

1 

4 

5 

1 
2 
4 
3 
6 

1 
3 
2 
4 
5 

1 
4 
2 
3 
5 

1 
2 
3 
4 
6 

1 
3 
2 
4 
5 

1 
4 
2 
3 
5 

1 

2 

4^ 
5 

1 
3 
2 
4 
6 

1 
4 
2 
3 
6 

1 
2 
4 
3 
6 

1 

I 

4 

•6 

1 
6 
2 
3 
4 

1 

2 
8 
4 
5 

1 
3 
2 
4 
5 

1 

6 

2 

3 

4 

Based  upon  all  essential  considerations,  the  states 
included  in  the  statement  rank,  at  this  census,  in  the 
order  given.  The  greatest  growth  is  noted  in  Pennsyl- 
vania, which,  from  a  position  of  comparative  insignifi- 
cance in  1880,  has  advanced  to  second  place  at  this 
census.     This  may  be  characterized  as  one  of  the  prin- 

Table  12.— comparative  SUMMARY  FOR  THE  UNITED  STATES,  BY  STATES:  1S80,  1890,  AND  1900 


cipal  developments  of  the  industry  during  the  interval. 
It  is  a  result  of  the  abundance  of  suitable  labor  and 
cheap  fuel  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  state,  advantages 
which  continue  to  influence  the  establishment  of  new 
silk  mills  and  the  removal  of  old  plants  from  other 
localities. 


Year. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Capital. 

SALARIED  OFFI- 
CIALS, CLERKS, 
ETC. 

AVERAGE  NU5IBER    OF  WAGE-EARNERS 
AND   TOTAL  WAGES. 

Miscella- 
neous ex- 
penses. 

Cost  of 

materials 

used. 

Value  of 
products, 
including 
amount  re- 
ceived for 
contract 
work. 

Number 

of 
spindles. 

NUMBER   OF   LOOMS. 

STATES. 

Num- 
ber. 

Salaries. 

Total 
num- 
ber. 

Total 

wages. 

Men, 

16 
years 
and 
over. 

Wom- 
en, 16 
years 
and 
over. 

Chil- 
dren, 
under 

16 
years. 

Total. 

Power. 

Hand. 

United  States 

1900 
1890 
1880 

483 
472 
382 

581,082,201 
51,007,637 
19, 125, 300 

2,657 
1,531 
(') 

S3, 134, 352 

1,917,877 

{■) 

65,416 
49,382 
31,337 

S20, 982, 194 
17,762.441 
9,146  705 

24,206 
17,602 
9,375 

34, 797 
28.914 
16,396 

6,413 
2.,S66 
5,566 

$10,264,208 
4,259,623 

862,406,665 
51,004,425 
22,467,701 

5107,256,258 
87,298,4.V1 
41,033,045 

1,987,4(M 

1.087,395 

426,530 

44,430 

22,569 
8,474 

44,257        173 

20,822     1,747 

5,321     3,153 

California 

Connecticut  - . . 
Illinois 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
IS90 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1S80 

31900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 

31890 

1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
1890 
1880 

1900 
.1X90 

nsso 

1900 

31890 

1880 

n900 
M890 
=  1880 

6 
9 
5 

38 

28 

4 

10 
6 

308,847 
112,283 
164, 300 

12.166,775 
9, 037, 042 
4,436,500 

259,540 

422, 096 

82,000 

6 
11 

(>) 

323 
117 
(') 

33 

49 

4,998 
15,276 
(') 

403,423 
159,273 
(■) 

51,180 
54,314 

117 
203 
161 

6,514 
4,964 
3,428 

412 
756 
259 

33,055 
68,290 
41,400 

2,392,873 
1,847,531 
1,026,530 

121,644 

241,322 

72,196 

24 
49 
20 

2,763 

1,540 

785 

81 
157 
67 

91 

152 
106 

3,585 
3,301 
1,990 

310 
589 
135 

2 

2 

25 

166 
123 
653 

21 
10 
57 

4,113 
10,438 
(=) 

637,450 
270, 426 
(') 

42,410 
35,761 

146,219 
146, 400 
80,995 

7,198,008 
6,201.876 
3,311,206 

187,514 
314,855 
125,896 

255,902 
271,912 
159,175 

12,378,981 
9,788,951 
5,881,000 

421,088 
785, 845 
244,150 

3,380 

2,817 
360 

160, 743 
129,664 
88,826 

2 
36 
24 

2,975 

1,378 

615 

34 

126 

64 

2 

1 

2,975 

1,372 

603 

27 
44 
13 

35 

24 

6 

12 

7 

732 

82 
51 

Maryland 

4 
4 

20 
20 
22 

180 
132 
106 

92 
185 
151 

3 

50,400 
20,900 

5,649,758 
3,  353, 296 
1,306,900 

29,285,792 
16, 809, 927 
6,952,325 

9,800,207 
ll,165,9r8 
4,696,775 

130,376 

3 

C) 

156 
223 
(') 

959 
472 
■(■) 

363 
432 
(') 

11 

3,600 
(■) 

227,276 
258, 115 
(') 

1,144,512 
541,570 
(') 

514,439 
601,336 
(■) 

3,455 

72 
82 

3,110 
2,993 
1,826 

24, 157 
17,445 
12,549 

7,861 
12,719 
9,633 

209 

20,633 
11,000 

1,110,324 

1.038,284 

521,725 

9,232,532 
6,634.610 
4, 177, 745 

2,861,818 
4, 983, 063 
2,690,025 

25,420 

28 
12 

1,102 
977 
353 

11,279 
7,773 
4,696 

3,149 
4,456 
2,405 

35 

44 
66 

1,837 
1,928 
1,286 

11,679 
8,773 
6,360 

4,299 
7,983 
5,469 

119 

14 

171 
88 
188 

1,199 

899 

2,493 

413 

280 

1,769 

55 

3,798 

(=) 

382,745 
484,390 
(=) 

4,896,695 
1,3.T«,137 

(-) 

1,601,527 
1,123,671 

5,159 

34,305 
15,760 

3,823,963 
3,251,893 
1,990,516 

21,631,118 
17,908,883 
9,678,536 

6,570,037 
10,174,818 
5,331,804 

99,403 

166, 36i 
35,415 

.    5, 957.  .632 
5,557.569 
3,761,260 

39,966,662 
30,760,371 
17,122,230 

12,706,246 
19,417,796 
10, 170, 140 

135,354 

6 

14 
89 

1,(M0 
640 
241 

20, 572 

11,724 

4,  .653 

5,268 
4,940 
2,0S6 

125 

14 

1,017 
444 
88 

20.657 
11,487 
2,956 

5,175 
3,888 
1,095 

125 

39 

Massachusetts . 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

Nortli  Carolina 

107,312 
81, 435 
30,450 

536,066 
359.364 
210,783 

136, 703 
154,969 
67, 271 

18,790 

23 

96 

153 

15 

237 

1,597 

93 

1,052 

991 

3 

6 

121 
66 
49 

6 
3 

37,830 
24,700 

20,894,023 
9,362,063 
1,379,900 

680,252 
122,256 

4 

(') 

745 

192 
(■) 

8 
8 

2,512 

(') 

718,776 
256,049 
C) 

12,320 
8,507 

21,028 
9,330 
3,189 

455 

186 

11,173 
12,550 

4,629,626 

2,725,286 

678,120 

166, 675 
63,471 

8 
21 

6,214 
2,420 
1,000 

124 
49 

28 
73 

11.665 
5,617 
1,870 

326 

107 

4i 

4,249 

1,293 

319 

5 
30 

2,662 

P) 

2,451,820 
939,051 

{-) 

103,454 
17,427 

13,983 
19,495 

19,884,869 
12,094,389 
1,830,985 

818,561 
149,763 

33,927 
53,110 

31,072,926 
19,357,546 
3,491,840 

1,311,333 
229, 062 

96 

16 
22 

12,949 

3,  .583 

828 

533 
43 

12,920 

3,360 

566 

533 
43 

16 
22 

Pennsylvania  . 
Rhode  Island.. 

942,515 

318,215 

26,241 

4,212 
3,393 

29 
223 
262 

Virginia 

3 

694,359 

12 

12,678 

473 

105,056 

144 

228 

101 

15,300 

720,525 

981,680 

41,798 

147 

147 

All  other  states 

11 
6 
6 

1,312,272 
534, 426 
61,000 

41 
20 
0) 

41,296 
17,326 
{') 

1,080 
678 
85 

303, 171 

138,779 

15,415 

291 
145 
16 

758 
392 
62 

31 

141 

7 

123,635 
15,862 
(-) 

1,326,448 
713,254 
82,510 

2,068,654 
995,  IK 
111,725 

35,856 

36,704 

3,610 

785 
169 

779 
169 

6 
2 

'  Not  reported  separately. 
'Not  reported. 

3 Included  in  "all  other  states." 

*lncludesestablishmentsdistributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Maine, 1:  Mary- 
land, 2,  Michigan,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah,  2. 


5  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Maine,  1;  Michigan,  1;  Mis- 
souri. 1;  North  Carolina,  1:  Virginia,  1. 

"Ineludes  establishments  distribuled  as  follows:  Kansas,  1;  Maine,  1:  Mis- 
souri, 1:  New  Hampshire,  1;  Rhode  Island,  1;  Vermont.  1. 


SILK. 


211 


CAPITAL. 

Table  13  is  a  comparative  statement  in  detail  of  capi- 
tal for  1890  and  1900.  })y  stato.s. 

The  value  of  land  and  buiUlinys  owned,  a,s  .shown  Ijy 
Table  13,  is  $12,250,905  as  compared  with  16,904,628  in 
1.S90.  The  estimated  value  of  hired  property  as 
reported  at  the  census  of  1890  was  $10,335,160,  for 
which  $731:,268  was  paid  as  rent  for  tenancy,  or  7.1  per 
cent.  In  1900  the  amount  reported  as  paid  for  rent  of 
land  and  buildings  was  $591, .'^07,  which,  iissuming  that 
the  earning  power  of  property  was  the  same,  repre- 
sented a  capital  value  of  $8,335,310.  The  total  amount 
of  capital  reported,  $81,082,201,  does   not  include  the 


value  of  land  and  buildings  rented.  Compared  with  the 
census  of  1890,  the  increase  of  aggregate  capital  is  59 
per  cent,  and,  specitically,  land  and  l)uil(lings  owned, 
77.4  per  cent;  machinery,  tools,  and  implements,  46.3 
per  cent;  and  casli  and  sundries.  60.7  per  cent.  The 
increase  in  tiie  value  of  land  and  buildings  owned,  and 
the  decrease  in  the  value  of  land  and  buildings  hired,  as 
estimated,  evidence  the  steadily  growing  ])rosperity  of 
the  industry.  It  is  also  interesting  to  note  that  in  1900 
the  value  of  finished  goods  produced  for  each  dollar  of 
capital  invested  was  $1.14,  as  compared  with  $1.36  in 
1890,  and  $1.80  in  1880. 


Table  13.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY  OF  CAPITAL,  BY  STATES:  1890  AND  1900. 


STATES. 

Year. 

Total. 

Land. 

Buildings. 

Machinery, 
tools,  and  im- 
plements. 

Cash  and  sun- 
dries. 

United  States 

1900 
1890 

881,082,201 
51,007,537 

$2,045,093 
1,691,660 

810,205,812 
5,212,968 

$20,750,449 
14,181,680 

848,080,847 
29,921,229 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

11900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
11890 

11900 
1890 

190O 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
11890 

2 1900 
n890 

308, 847 
112,283 

12,166,775 
9, 037, 042 

259,540 
422,096 

3,600 

29,726 

41,161 
30,409 

2,061,799 
1,617,538 

95,959 
106,200 

231,360 
81,874 

8,225,330 
6, 123, 715 

123  581 

282, 294 
152,589 

15,000 
33,000 

1,597,352 
1,143,200 

25.000 
60,000 

lUinois 

Marvland       

222,896 

50,  400 

5, 649,  758 
3,383,296 

29,285,792 
16,809,927 

9,800,207 
11,165,918 

130,376 

6,000 

216,341 
77,300 

733,367 
690,919 

202,138 
544,002 

6,200 

1,500 

756,454 
287,500 

2,966.084 
1,579.160 

586,224 
832,240 

52,000 

12, 400 

707, 345 
591,908 

7,297,8.56 
5, 039, 864 

3,061,252 
3,612,758 

40,525 

■  80,500 

3,969,618 
2,396,588 

18,288,4&5 
9,600,284 

5,950,593 
6,176,918 

31  651 

North  Carolina 

Ohio 

37,830 

20,894,023 
9, 362, 063 

680,2.52 
122,256 

594,359 

10,000 

491,  .598 
236,880 

24,985 

5,000 

3,688,545 
1,22.5,652 

96,224 

1,750 

6,696,158 
2,941,679 

165, 032 
70,364 

210,200 

21,080 

10,017,722 
4,957,882 

394,041 
51  892 

Rhode  Island            

12,600 

174,440 

197.119 

All  other  states  

1.312,272 
634,  426 

57,000 
41,000 

233, 763 
78,716 

370, 162 
157, 110 

651,347 
257,600 

1  Included  in  "  all  olher  states." 

2  Includes  statistics  reported  by  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware.  2:  Maine,  1:  Maryland.  2:  Michigan,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah,  2. 

3  Includes  statistics  reported  by  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Maine,  1;  Michigan,  1;  Missouri,  1:  North  Carolina.  1;  Virginia.]. 


212 


MANUFACTURES. 


WAGE-EARNERS    AND   OPERATIVES    EMPLOYED. 

Table  14  pre.sents  the  number  of  wage-earners — men, 
women,  and  cliildren — by  states,  from  1870  to  1900, 
inclii.-<ivo,  w  ith  the  percentage  that  each  is  of  the  total 
nuinber. 

Tahle  14.— comparative  SUMMARY   OF   WAGE-EARN- 
ERS, BY  STATES:  1870,  1880,  1890,  AND  1900. 


Year. 

NUMBER. 

PER  CENT. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Men, 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Wom- 
en, 16 
years 
and 
over. 

Cliil- 
dren, 
under 

16 
years. 

Men, 

16 
years 
and 
over. 

Wom- 
en, 16 
years 
"and 
over. 

Chil- 
dren, 
under 
16 

years. 

United  States . 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

65,416 
49,  382 
31, S3" 
6,649 

24,206 

17,602 

9,37.S 

1,734 

34,797 

28,914 

16,  396 

3,529 

■6.413 

2, 866 
5,566 
1,386 

37.0 
35.6 
29.9 
26.1 

53.2 

58.6 
52.3 
53.1 

9.8 
5.8 
17.8 
20.8 

California 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

11900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

1900 

isao 

1880 
1870 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

1900 
11890 
1 18.80 
•1870 

'1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

1900 
1890 
1880 
1870 

117 
203 
151 

24 
49 

20 

91 
152 
106 

I 

25 

20.5 
24.1 
13.2 

77.8 
74.9 
70.2 

1.7 

1.0 

16.6 

Connecticut 

Illinois 

6,514 
4,964 
3,428 
1,703 

412 
756 
259 

2,763 

l,5i0 

785 

466 

81 
157 
67 

3,!)85 
3.301 
1,990 
1,003 

310 
589 
135 

166 
123 
653 
234 

21 
10 
57 

42.4 
31.0 
2"'  9 
27!  4 

19.7 
20.8 
25.9 

5.5.0 
66.5 
68.0 
58.9 

75.2 
77.9 
52.1 

2.6 
2.5 
19.1 
13.7 

5.1 

1.3 
22.0 

72 
82 

28 
12 

44 
56 

....... 

38.9 
14.6 

ei.i 
as.  3 

"n.'i 

Wassacliusetts 

Kew  Jersey 

3,110 

2,993 

1,826 

453 

24, 157 
17,445 
12,549 
2,790 

7,861 

12,719 

9,633 

739 

209 

1,102 

977 

353 

97 

11,279 

7,773 

4,696 

733 

3,149 
4,456 
2,405 

154 

35 

1.837 

1,928 

1,285 

286 

11,679 
8,773 
5,360 
1,162 

4.299 

7,9,S3 

5,459 

413 

119 

171 

88 

188 

70 

1 

1,199  ; 

899  ' 
2,493 
895 

413 

280 

1,769 

172 

55 

3.5.4 
32.6 
19.3 
21.4 

46.7 
44.6 
37.4 
26.3 

40.1 
3.5.0 
25.0 
20.8 

16.8 

59.1 
64.4 
70.4 
63.1 

48.3 
60.3 
42.7 
41.6 

54.7 
62.8 
56.7 
55.9 

56.9 

5.5 
3.0 
10.3 

15.6 

6.0 
5.1 
19.9 
32.1 

5.2 

North  Carolina  ... 

2.2 
18.3 
23.3 

26.3 



Oliio 

36 
135 

8 
21 

28 
73 

....... 

22.2 
15.5 

77.8 
54.1 

"'36.'4 

I'ennsylvania 

21,028 

9,330 

3,189 

936 

5,214 

2,420 

1,000 

266 

11,565 

5.617 

1,S70 

655 

4.249 

1,293 

319 

15 

24.8 
2.5.9 
31.4 
28.4 

65.0 
60.2 
58.6 
70.0 

20.2 

13.9 

10.0 

1.6 

'  Included  in  "  all  other  states 


T.uiLB  14.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY   OF   WAGE-EARN- 
ERS, BY  STATES:  1870,  1880,  1890,  AND  1900— Continued. 


Year. 

NUHBEB. 

PER.  CENT. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Men, 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Wom- 
en, 16 
years 
and 
over. 

Chil- 
dren, 
under 

16 
years. 

Men. 

16 
years 
and 
over 

Worn. !  Chil- 
en,  16    dren. 
years   under 
and   ,     16 
over.  ■  years. 

Rhode  Island 

1900 

1890 

11880 

1870 

1900 
11890 
1880 

1870 

=  1900 
31890 
*1880 
51870 

455 

186 

124 
49 

326 

107 

1 

5  1 

30  i 

27.3 
26.4 

71.6 
57.5 

1.1 
16.1 

'. 

Virginia     . 

473 

144 

228 

101 

30  4 

AA  0 

91    d 



' 

: :: 

1 

All  other  states  ... 

1,080 
678 
85 
28 

291 

145 

16 

18 

768 
392 
62 
10 

31  1 
141  i 

7  ; 
1 

26.9 
21.4 
18.8 
64.3 

70.2          2.9 
57.8        20.8 
73.0          8.2 
35.7  ! 

1  Included  in  "all  other  states." 

2  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Maine,  1; 
Maryland,  2;  Michigan.  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah,  2. 

^Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Maine,  1;  Michigan,  1; 
Missouri,  1:  North  Carolina.  1;  Virginia,  1. 

^  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Kansas.  1;  Maine.  1:  Mis- 
souri, 1:  New  Hampshire.  1:  Rhode  I=iland,  1:  Vermont.  1. 

5  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  New  Hampshire,  1:  Ver- 
mont. 1. 

Table  14  shows  that  in  1870  children  were  20.8  per 
cent  of  the  total  operatives  in  the  United  States,  and  in 
1900,  9.8  per  cent,  a  marked  decrease.  During  the 
same  period  the  percentage  of  women  remained  the 
same,  while  that  of  men  increased  from  26.1  per  cent 
cent  to  37  per  cent.  This  decrease  in  the  percentage 
of  children  took  place  between  1870  and  1890,  for  since 
1890  the  percentage  has  increased  slightly.  In  some 
states  the  decrease  in  the  percentage  of  children  is 
even  more  marked,  ranging  from  32.1  per  cent  to  5  per 
cent  in  New  Jer.sey.  In  contrast  to  this,  the  proportion 
of  children  in  Pennsj'lvania  has  increased  during  the 
entire  period.  It  has  already  been  remarked  that  the 
prosperity  of  the  throwing  industiy  in  this  state  is 
partly  due  to  the*  cheap  unskilled  labor  obtainable  in 
the  smaller  towns,  and  this  increase  in  the  proportion 
of  children  employed  corroborates  the  statement. 

Table  15  presents  the  skilled  and  unskilled  operatives, 
weavers,  and  spinners,  winders,  and  warpers,  including 
unskilled  employees,  by  states,  for  1900i 


Table  13.— WAGE-EARNERS  CLASSIFIED  BY  OCCUPATION,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


WEAVERS. 

STATES. 

TOTAL. 

Total. 

Broad  silks. 

Ribbons. 

Velvets  and 
plushes. 

All  Other, 

WARPERS.  ETC. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil. 
dren. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil- 
dren. 

Men. 

Wom- 
en. 

Chil- 
dren. 

United  States.. 

24,206 

34,797 

6,413 

15,360 

13,057 

667 

8,917 

9,188 

236 

3,725 

1,467 

21 

881 

510 

150 

1,837  ;l,892 

261 

8,846 

21,740 

5.746 

24 

2,763 

SI 

1,102 

11,279 

3,149 

35 

5,214 

124 

144 

291 

91 

3,-585 

310 

1,837 

11, '-.79 

4,299 

119 

11,565 

326 

228 

758 

2 
166 

21 

171 

1,19!) 

413 

r.5 

4,249 

5 

101 

31 

1 

24 

1,317 

81 

791 

3,287 

776 

36 

2,194 

20 

144 

177 

or 

2,4:50 

310 

1,665 

6,861 

2,802 

81 

6,649 

170 

216 

669 

2 

Connecticut 

Illinois 

1,440 

1,149 

39 

448 

441 

21 

200 

7 

565  i   iii 

4i2       367 

32 

127 
21 

311 

7,99'2 
2,373 

■■3,'626' 

104 

'"'Hi' 

282 

4,818 

1,497 

38 

4,916 

156 

12 

183. 

8 
116 

98 

301 

6,491 

899 

208 
3, -548 
824 
38 
3,777 
156 
12 

40 
502 
203 

1 

io  1      34 
691  :    763 
351  ,    460 

8 
75 

86 

163 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

North  Carolina  .. 

38 
2 

1,762 
1,014 

3 

10 

48          5 
109        20 

1,083 
815 
55 

Pennsylvania  ... 
Rhoiie  Island 

401 

1,646 
74 

191 

885 

617 

1 

149 
10 

314 

150 

341 
20 

278 

59 

3,848 
5 

Virginia 

101 

All  other  states  1. 

5 

59 

184 

4 

43 

5 

12  1 

1 

26 

1  Includes  the  statistics  reported  by  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2:  Michigan,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah,  2. 


SILK. 


218 


Table  15,  considered  in  connection  with  Tables  t),  8, 
9,  and  10,  presentinjj  the  number  of  loom.x,  .spindle.s, 
etc.,  indicates  in  a  measure  the  relative  position  of  the 
several  states  with  reference  to  the  production  of  the 
various  silk  products. 

COUNTIES   LEADING   IN    SILK    MANUFACTURE. 

Table  16  shows  the  number  of  establishments,  capital, 
number  of  wage-earners,  total  wages,  and  value  of 
products  in  counties  manufacturing  a  product  exceed- 
ing ?;i. 000.000  in  value. 

Tablk  16.— counties  MANUFACTUKIXG  PRODUCTS 
EXCEEDING  $1,000,000  IN  VALUE:  1900. 


Num- 
ber of 
estiib- 
llsh- 
ments. 

Capital. 

WAGE-EARSERS. 

Value  of 
products. 

cor  NT  I ES. 

Average 
number. 

Total 
wages. 

Connecticut: 

5 
3 
6 
10 

$1,207,927 

6,340,705 

2,  ISO,  .=>24 

593, 933 

903 

83,54.265 

$1,657,954 

Hartford    

2,546       1.064.908 

4,613,243 

New  London 

Tolland 

1.181 
581 

440.427 
162,521 

2,316,810 
1,360,518 

Massachusetts: 

Hampshire 

New  Jersey: 

Hudson 

Morris 

Passaic 

Warren 

New  York: 

3 

19 

5 

140 

6 

50 
10 
6 

2,768,120 

6,581,756 

723.766 

19,192,7.56 

1,556,930 

4,428,148 

8.59, 138 

1,718,848 

1,196 

4,703 

857 

16,150 

1,303 

4,001 
653 
823 

437,412 

1,825,996 
248,509 

6,366,334 
416,323 

1,579,314 
287,199 
344,330 

2,584,214 

7,92.5,620 

1,424,837 

26,329,792 

2,174,705 

6, 757,  .544 
1  042, 199 

1,632,651 

Pennsylvania: 

Blairi 

Lackawanna 

14 
5 

13 
8 

2,392,256 

524,367 

3,321,009 

1,115,449 

3,313 
1,396 
3,614 
1,207 

528,433 
284,524 
894, 152 
229,520 

4,185,179 
1,622,494 

4, 780, 909 
1,513,833 

Luzerne 

Northampton 

ID 

1,978,804 

1,947 

469,281 

3,249,776 

Pliilftdi-lphia 

Schuylkill' 

28 

3,813,532 

2,506 

826,456 

4,531,794 

All  other  countless 

9 

4,329,575 

3,244 

861,495 

7,264,660 

1  Incliidt'il  in  "all  other  counties." 

-  Iiu-liidcs  nmnlies  havinp  less  than  3  establishments,  distributed  as  follows: 
Massiuhusctts:  Hampden,  J;  Pennsylvania:  Blair,  1;  Lycoming,  2-  Northumber- 
jand,  2;  Schuylkill,  2. 

The  leadinor  counties  in  silk  manufacture,  accordincf 
to  Table  16,  are  Passaic,  Hudson,  and  Warren,  N.  J.; 


New  York.  Kings,  and  Queens  counties,  which  are  com- 
prised in  the  city  of  Greater  New  York;  Lehigh,  Phila- 
delphia, Lackawanna,  and  Northampton,  Pa.;  Hai'tford 
and  New  London,  Conn. ;  and  Hampshire,  Mass. 

BRAIDS    AND    TRIMMINGS. 

Table  17  presents,  by  states,  the  establishments  man- 
ufacturing silk  trimmings  and  braids,  apportioning 
them  among  the  silk,  cotton,  and  woolen  industries  and 
showing  the  cost  of  the  several  textile  materials  used 
and  the  value  of  the  products. 

The  tigures  appearing  under  the  headings  "Cotton" 
and  "  Wool"  do  not  appear  elsewhere  in  the  silk  tables. 
To  properly  present  the  entire  braids  and  trimmings 
industiy,  however,  it  was  necessary  to  include  them. 

It  should  also  be  noted  that  this  table  includes  19 
establishments  which,  although  manufacturing  braids 
and  trimmings  as  by-products,  produce  other  silk  goods 
of  greater  value,  and  are  classified  as  silk  manufactories. 

Li  censuses  prior  to  19l)()  all  establishments  making 
braids  and  bindings,  fringes  and  gimps,  dress  and  cloak 
trimmings,  millinery  and  military  trimmings,  etc.,  of 
which  .silk  was  a  component  material,  were  classed  as 
silk  establishments.  At  this  census  the  number  is  lim- 
ited to  those  which  have  reported  silk  as  the  material 
t)f  greatest  value.  If,  as  in  previous  censuses,  all  estab- 
li.shments  using  silks  were  included,  the  gross  product, 
as  .shown  by  Table  17,  would  be  $7,785,699,  and  the 
number  of  establishments  105.  In  1880  the  reported 
production  was  §9,306,205;  in  1890  it  was  $11,325,918. 
At  the  present  census  $4,059,053  is  given  as  the  product 
of  66  establishments  clas.silied  as  silk,  $1,615,707  as  the 
production  of  26  establishments  classified  as  cotton,  and 
$2,110,939  as  the  production  of  13  establishments  classi- 
fied as  woolen. 

The  principal  centers  of  the  trimmings  trade  are  New 
York  city  and  Philadelphia,  and  the  elimination  of  so 
many  of  these  establishments  from  the  silk  tabulation 
in  this  census  especially  afl'ects  New  York. 


Table  17.— BRAIDS  AND  TRIMMINGS,  WITH  COST  OF  TEXTILE  MATERIALS,  CLASSIFIED  BY  PRINCIPAL  TEXTILE 

COMPONENTS,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


United  States 

Connecticut 

Illinois 

Massachusetts 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

Pennsylvania 

All  other  states'... 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Cost  of  textile  materials. 


Total. 


83,083,804 


20,000 

160, 210 

261,532 

93, 416 

1, 375,  774 

1,026,777 

146, 095 


Silk. 


$1,330,298     $942,715 


Cotton.       Wool. 


18,000 
69,421 
120, 912 
44, 751 
501,691 
442,363 
133,170 


1,500 
40,063 
58.036 
42, 516 
394,989 
399,381 
6,230 


$810, 791 


500 

60, 726 

82,. 584 

6,149 

479.094 

185,043 

6,695 


Value  of 
products. 


S7, 786, 699 


38,685 
421,088 
601.425 
262,963 
434, 980 
798, 278 
228,280 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


Cost  of  textile  materials. 


Total. 


81,565,417 


20,000 
160,210  I 
230,078 

61,622 
455,  625 
491, 787 
146,095 


Silk. 


81,037,891 


18,000 
69,421 
120,912 
44,151 
316, 454 
335,783 
133,170 


Cotton.       Wool. 


8272,503 


1,500 
40,063 
26,582 
11,668 
84,126 
102,334 

6,230 


8265,023 


500 
60,726 
82,684 

6,803 
55,045 
53,670 

6,696 


Value  of 
products. 


K 059, 053 


38,686 
421,088 
533,527 
162, 755 
1,374,305 
1,300,413 
228,280 


'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  California,  2;  Michigan,  1;  Rhode  Island,  2. 


214 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  17.— BRAIDS  AND  TRIMMINGS,  WITH  COST  OF  TEXTILE  MATERIALS.  CLASSIFIED  BY  PRINCIPAL  TEXTILE 

COMPONENTS,  BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


COTTON. 

WOOL. 

STATES. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Cost  Of  textile  materials. 

Value  of 
products. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Cost  of  textile  materials. 

Value  of 
products. 

Total. 

Silk. 

Cotton. 

Wool. 

Total. 

Silk. 

Cotton. 

Wool. 

United  States              

26 

8680,885 

$88,132 

8532,549 

$60,204 

31,615,707 

13 

S837,502 

S2M,275 

8137,663 

$495,564 

$2, 110, 939 

2 
2 

31,454 

31,794 

319,796 

297,841 

31,454 
30,848 
241,489 
228,808 

67,898 
100,208 
678,017 
769,584 

600 
29, 182 
58,350 

346 

49,175 
10,683 

1 

10 
3 

600,353 
237,149 

156,055 
48,220 

69,424 

68,239 

374  874 
120, 690 

1,382,658 

728, 281 

1 

'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  California,  2;  Michigan,  1;  Rhode  Island, -2. 


SKEIN  DTEING,  PIECE  DYEING,  PRINTING,  AND  FINISHING. 

The  following  tables  present  the  statistics  of  dyeing, 
printing,  and  tinishing  silk  goods  and  other  textile 
yarns  and  ,silk-mixed  fabrics,  including  both  the  work 


done  in  silk  manufacturing  establishments  and  that  done 
in  establishments  engaged  exclusively  in  dyeing,  print- 
ing, and  tinishing.  Table  IS  shows  the  statistics  of 
skein  dyeing;  Table  19,  piece  d3-eing;  Table  20,  print- 
ing; and  Table  21,  finishing. 


Tablk  18.— SKEIN  DYEING  IN  SILK  MILLS  AND  DY'EING  PLANTS,  FOR  SILK  MANUFACTURE,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Num- 
ber of 
estjib- 
lish- 
ments. 

Amounts 
charged 
for  work 
done  in 
dyeing 
plants. 

Aggregate. 

SILK. 

OTHER   YARNS. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Reeled. 

• 

Spun. 

Total. 

Cotton. 

Wool. 

Colors. 

Black. 

Colors. 

Black. 

Colors. 

Black. 

Colors. 

Black. 

United  States . . . 

95 

Pounds. 
12,175,988 

Pounds. 
9,873,477 

Pounds. 
5,551,313 

Pounds. 
3,393,871 

Pounds. 
621,043 

Pounds. 
309,250 

Pounds. 
2,300,511 

Pounds. 
1,067,589 

Pounds. 
1,049,215 

Pounds. 
100,658 

Pounds. 
83,049 

Total  in  silk  mills 

58 
37 

5,952,391 
6,223,597 

3,936,970 
5,938,507 

1,793,955 
3,757,3.58 

1,541,785 
1,852,086 

425, 21fc 
195,827 

176. 014 
133,236 

2,015,421 
285,090 

925,265 
142,334 

981,559 
67,656 

52,658 
48,000 

55.949 

Total  in  dyeing  plants. 

&4, 305, 809 

27.100 

Connecticut; 

Silk  mills 

17 

8 

13 
22 

10 
9 

5 
5 

7 
1 

1,787,934 

1,150,790 

1,207,345 
5,064,504 

483,921 
669,685 

883, 035 
484,158 

439, 366 

1,223,435 

707, 432 

1,098,655 
6,057,639 

188,124 
391,460 

285,958 
481,158 

4.'M  366 

511,298 

263,700 

838,582 
3,175,932 

98,910 
277,869 

29,320 
300,957 

52,145 
2,600 

445,999 

350,083 

257,844 
1,661,078 

54,431 
72,591 

68, 023 
115,817 

365,405 
2,600 

203, 181 

71,1.51 

2,139 
132,286 

26,783 
28,375 

110, 100 
35,141 

11,862 
25 

62,957 

22,498 

90 
88,343 

8,000 
12,625 

78,515 
32,243 

3,954 
25 

564,499 

443,358 

108, 690 
6,865 

295,797 
278,225 

597,077 

113,830 

122, 109 

25,640 
3,834 

261,322 
138,500 

400,351 

450,669 

224,642 

83,050 
3,031 

25,475 
64,625 

1%,723 

Massachusetts: 

Silk  mills 

45,668 

50.949 

New  Jersey: 

Dyeing  plants 

New  York; 

Silk  mills.. 

3,927,829 

5,000 
48,000 

4,000 

Dyeing  plants 

Pennsylvania: 

Silk  mills 

160,063 

27.100 

Dyeing  plants 

All  other  states;! 
Silk  mills 

215,292 

6,000 

,    2,000 

1,000 

2,000 

1,000 

Dyeing  plants 

■1  6-25  j 

5  250   '          5  9iin 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  California,  2;  Illinois,  1;  Maine,  1:  Michigan,  2;  Rhode  Island,  1;  Virginia,  1. 
Table  19.— PIECE  DYEING  IN  SILK  MILLS  AND  DYEING  PLANTS,  FOR  SILK  MANUFACTURE,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


United  States. 


Total  in  silk  mills 

Total  in  dyeing  plants  . 


New  Jersey; 

Silk  mills 

Dyeing  plants . 
New  York; 

Silk  mills 

Dyeing  plants . 
All  other  states: ' 

Silk  mills 

Dyeing  plants . 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


23 


Amounts 
charged 
for  work 
done  in 
dyeing 
plants. 


$849, 294 


773, 229 
"75,"  498 
567 


Total. 


Yards. 
40,484,911 


4, 464, 528 
36,020,383 


1,629,181 
33, 679, 486 

638, 310 
2,323,047 

2,297,037 
17,250 


All  silk.         Silk  and  spun. 


Yards. 
21,150,585 


1,224,329 
19,926,256 


1,046,938 
19, 415, 650 


497,768 

177,391 
12,938  I 


Yards. 
2,044,630 


459, 693 
1,684,937 


110,000 
1,580,625 


319, 693 
4,312 


Silk  and 
cotton. 


Yards. 
17, 238,471 


2,780,156 
14, 45S,  315 


471,893 
12, 630, 436 


.538, 310 
1,821,879 


Silk  and 
wool. 


Yards. 
51,225 


3.50 
50,875 


350 

46,875 


4,000 


'  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,  2;  Illinois,!;  Pennsylvania,  2. 


SILK.  215 

Table  20.— SILK  PRINTING  IN  SILK  .MILLS  AND  SILK-PRINTING  PLANTS,  FOR  SILK  MANUFACTURE,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Amounts 

charged 

for  work 

done 

in  silk- 
printing 

plants. 

! 

Total. 

Printed  in 
warps. 

PKI.VTED  IN  PIECES. 

STATES. 

Silk. 

Silk  and  spun. 

Silk  and 
cotton. 

United  States 

12 

1         Yards. 

10i239,606 

Yards. 
329,678 

Yards. 
4,965,893 

Yards. 
2,776,689 

yards. 
2,168,346 

Total  ill  silk  mills : 

4 

8 

3,084,811 
7,154,795 

16,355 
313,323 

!i46,704, 
4,119,189' 

1,684,524 
1,091,165 

537,228 
1,631,118 

Total  in  silk-printing  plants .     .  . 

8419,870 

New  Jersey: 

Silk  mills 

2 
4 

2 

4 

76,586 
5,702,500 

3,008,225 
1,452,295 

7,  .500 
313, 323 

8,855 

69,086 
3, 723, 513 

777,618 
395,646 

Silk-printing  plants 

354, 148 

1,055,165 

1,684,524 
36,000 

610.469 

537, 228 
1,020,649 

All  other  states: ' 
Silk  mills 

65,722 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Connecticut,  2:  Massachusetts,  1;  New  York,  2;  Pennsylvania,  1. 

Table   21.— SILK   FINISHING   IN   SILK   MILLS   AND   SILK-FINISHING    PLANTS,    FOR   SILK   MANUFACTURE,    BY 

STATES:  1900. 


United  States  . 


Total  in  silk  mills 

Total  in  hnishing  plants  . 

Connecticut: 

Silk  mills 

New  .lersey: 

Silk  mills 

Silk-finishing  plants . 
New  York: 

Silk  mills 

Silk-tinishing  plants  . 
Pennsylvania; 

Silk  mills 

All  other  states:^ 

Silk  mills 

Silk-Hnishing  plants . 


Num' 
berof 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 


1 


Amounts 

charged 

for  work 

done. 


54 

38 

16 

S981, 740 

7 

15 

6 
5 

449,021 

9 

532,436 

4 

1 

283 

Total. 


lards. 
133, 463, 540 


44,616,500 
88,847,040 


17, 845, 930 
41,706,480 

4, 937,  .520 
47,123,280 

7,  336, 140 

1,127,400 
17,280 


Total. 


Pieces. 
2, 228, 346 


762, 062 
1,466,284 


240,762 


297, 949 
680, 608 


82, 292 
785,388 


122, 269 
18, 790 


Silk. 


Pieces. 
1,462,594 


472,584 
990, 010 


268, 128 
453,192 


67,240 
636,530 


8,069 
288 


Silk  and 
cotton. 


Pieces. 
766,569 


289, 362 
476,207 


168, 776 


29, 767 
227,416 


15,052 
248, 791 


65, 046 
10,721 


Silk  and 
wool. 


Pieces. 


183 


116 
67 


M 


67 
62 


ilncludes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  California.  1;  Illinois,  1;  Maine.  1;  Rhode  Island,  1;  Utah,  1. 


Owing  to  its  importance  as  a  di.stinct  industry,  the 
dyeing  and  finishing  of  textiles  will  be  presented  in  a 
separate  report  at  this  census,  as  it  was  at  the  census  of 
1890.  As  the  various  operations  of  skein  dyeing,  piece 
dyeing,  printing,  and  finishing  are  wholly  or  partly 
done  in  many  silk  manufacturing  plants,  a  tabulation 
has  been  made,  covering  not  only  the  returns  from  the 
independent  or  professional  dye  w'orks,  print  works, 
and  finishing  plants,  but  also  those  from  silk  manufac- 
turing plants,  which,  when  combined,  possess  special 
interest  for  silk  manufacturers,  and,  considered  in  con- 
junction with  other  tables  presented  in  this  report, 
embrace  all  the  elements  of  the  silk  industiy  in  the 
United  States. 

The  tables  present  the  number  of  establishments 
engaged  in  the  different  cla.sses  of  work,  the  quantity 
of  goods  handled,  and  the  amount  charged  for  the  work 
done  by  dyeing,  printing,  and  finishing  establishments. 
Skein  dj^eing  embraces  all  the  yarns  dj'ed  for  the  silk 
industry  in  the  census  year.  Piece  dyeing,  printing, 
and  finishing  embrace  broad  goods  onl}',  and  do  not 
include  sewing  silk,  veilings,  veils,  etc.     Ribbons  are  not 


included,  as  a  given  number  of  yards  or  pieces  of  rib- 
bon, without  designating  the  widtli,has  no  significance. 
It  is  to  be  understood,  therefore,  that  the  returns  for 
piece  d}-eing,  printing,  and  fiuisliing  deal  onh*  with  plain 
and  fancj'  broad  silks,  Jacquards,  piece-dyed  weaves, 
velvets,  plushes,  tapestries,  and  upholsteiy  silks. 

Data  as  to  capital  invested,  operatives  employed, 
wages  paid,  cost  of  materials  used,  and  miscellaneous 
expenses  of  the  independent  or  professional  plants  will 
be  found  in  the  separate  report  on  "Dyeing  and  Fin- 
ishing of  Textiles."  The  principal  object  of  the  forego- 
ing tables  is  to  show  the  quantities  of  .silk  and  other 
textile  3'arns  and  silk-mixed  fabrics  dyed,  printed,  and 
finished  bj'  and  for  silk  manufacturers. 

Skein  Dyeing. — Table  18  shows  that  there  were 
8,9i5,184  pounds  of  reeled  silk,  skein  dyed  in  colors  and 
black.  The  total  consumption  of  reeled  silk,  including 
fringe  and  floss  silk,  in  the  census  year  was  9,828,754 
pounds.  The  balance,  883,570  pounds,  represents,  with 
the  exceptions  noted  below,  goods  woven  in  the  grey 
and  piece  dj'ed. 

There  were  930,293  pounds  of  spun  silk,  skein  dyed 


216 


MANUFACTURES. 


in  colors  and  black.  The  total  consumption  of  spun 
silk  was  1  ,T74:.124  pounds.  The  balance.  848.831  pounds, 
practically  represents  goods  woven  in  the  grej'  and 
piece  dyed. 

The  returns  show  2.116,804  pounds  of  cotton,  skein 
d\'ed  in  colors  and  black.  The  total  consumption  of 
cotton  j^arns  by  the  silk  industry  was  6,664,06y  pounds. 
The  balance,  4,547,265  pounds,  largely  represents  piece- 
d3-ed  mixed  goods. 

The  returns  show  183,707  pounds  of  woolen  j^arns, 
dyed  in  colors  and  })lack.  The  total  consumption  of 
wool  and  mohair  yarns  was  344,271  pounds.  The  bal- 
ance, 160,564  pounds,  represents  piece-dyed  mixed 
goods.  "Other  yarns"  reported  as  raw  materials  in 
the  census  returns  amount  to  108,388  pounds. 

The  marked  tendency  in  recent  years  to  the  produc- 
tion of  silk-mixed  goods,  comprising  silk,  cotton,  and 
wool,  and  the  interchange  of  the  several  tibei's  in  the 
textile  industries,  reference  to  which  has  been  made 
elsewhere  in  this  report,  is  illustrated  by  the  returns 
tabulated.  In  the  cotton  textile  industry  the  consump- 
tion of  raw-silk  and  spun-silk  yarns  has  increased  from 
51,434  pounds  in  1890  to  560,680  pounds  in  lyOO.  In  the 
wool  textile  industry  and  its  several  l)ranches  the  con- 
sumption of  such  materials  has  increased  from  255,494 
pounds  to  323,884  pounds,  and  in  the  hosiery  and  knit- 
goods  industry  an  increase  from  120,341  pounds  in  1890 
to  266,247  pounds  in  1900  is  reported.  A  considerable 
quantity  of  skein-dyed  silk  yarn  is  now  used  as  w'arps 
bj'  the  cotton  and  woolen  manufacturers  of  New  Eng- 
land. The  great  development  of  electricity  in  the 
United  States  has  utilized  a  v^ery  considerable  quantity 
of  skein-dyed  silk  yarns  in  covering  electric  wires. 

Piece  Dyeing,  Printing,  and  Finishing. -In  addition 
to  the  piece  dyeing  of  domestic  goods,  very  large  quan- 
tities of  Habutai  silks  from  Japan  figure  in  the  returns 
as  dyed  and  finished  in  the  United  States;  also  cotton- 
back  satins  in  considerable  quantities  from  Switzerland, 
Germany,  and  Lyon,  France. 

The  redyeing  and  finishing  in  the  United  States  of 
dress  silks  imported  in  colors,  and  later  turned  to  other 
uses  in  the  millinery  and  trimmings  trade,  and  the  re- 
finishing  of  imported  taflfetas  to  suit  changed  conditions 
of  demand  and  use,  help  to  account  for  the  apparent 
large  excess  of  yardage  piece  dyed  and  finished  by  pro- 
fessional plants  over  the  figures  of  strictly  domestic 
production  of  piece-dyed  goods. 

Another  consideration  is  the  probable  fact  that  the 
production  of  double-width  taffetas,  18-36  inches  to  27- 
54  inches  wide,  in  double  pieces,  may  have  been  returned 
singl}^  by  the  manufacturer  and  doubh^  by  the  dyer  and 
finisher. 

Silk  Printing. — What  has  been  said  respecting  the 
piece  dyeing  of  imported  goods  equally  applies  to  the 
printing  branch  of  the  industry.     Foreign-made  goods 


imported  in  the  grey  are  now  printed  here  as  success- 
fully as  in  B^urope. 

The  item  "Amount  charged  for  work  done"  in  the 
tables  indicates  paj^ments  to  the  independent  or  profes- 
sional establishments,  as  follows: 

Skein  dyeing $4, 30.5, 809 

Piece  dyeing 849, 294 

Printing 419,  870 

Finishing 981,  740 


Total 6, 556,  713 

The  proportion  of  this  amount  applicable  to  the  silk 
manufacturers  exclusively  is  included  in  the  item  "Con- 
tract work,"  under  miscellaneous  expenses,  in  the  tables 
included  in  this  report.  From  the  foregoing  descrip- 
tion of  the  methods  of  the  business  it  is  plainly  evident 
that  a  part  of  these  charges  was  for  account  of  importers 
of  foreign  silks  in  the  piece,  and  of  the  domestic  users 
of  skein-dyed  yarns  in  other  industries.  The  reported 
expense  of  dyeing,  finishing,  and  printing  is  not  the 
total  value  of  the  work  performed  in  these  branches  of 
the  industry,  but  represents  only  the  amount  charged 
by  the  independent  or  professional  establishments,  and 
does  not  include  the  value  of  such  work  done  by 
silk  manufacturers.  As  one  price  per  yard  is  charged 
by  a  number  of  concerns  which  do  both  piece  dyeing 
and  finishing,  the  apportionment  of  the  returns  between 
these  processes  was  estimated.  The  principal  object  of 
the  tabulation  was,  as  stated,  to  report  quantities  under 
the  designated  headings.  The  price  charged  for  "  finish- 
ing" 88,829,760  yards  by  15  professional  establishments 
in  New  York  and  New  Jersey  is  reported  at  §981.457. 
The  current  price  for  finishing  all  silk  broad  goods  is 
1  cent  per  yard,  and  mixed  goods  2i  cents  per  yard. 
Other  prices  current  in  this  branch  of  the  industry  are 
as  follows:  Piece  dyeing  (including  finishing),  all  silk, 
2^  to  3  cents  per  3'ard,  and  mixed  goods,  double  the 
price  charged  for  all  silk  goods.  Printing  (including 
finishing),  5  to  7  cents  per  yard,  and  warp  printing, 
7  to  12  cents  per  yard.  In  broad  goods  the  average 
yardage  per  piece  is  60  yards.  Some  pieces  measure 
only  30  3'ards,  but  the  great  bulk  of  the  production  is 
in  50-3'ard  and  60-3'ard  pieces,  while  all  the  foreign 
cotton-back  satins  dyed  in  the  United  States  average  75 
yards  per  piece. 

CAPACITT   OF   AMERICAN    MILLS. 

There  are  now  in  the  United  States  silk  manufac- 
turers who  turn  out  over  100,000  pieces  of  60  yards 
each  per  year,  more  than  half  being  taffeta  weaves; 
varn  dyers  deliver  uncharged  silk  in  two  davs,  black 
and  colored  organzine  and  traui,  weighted  70  to  SO  per 
cent,  in  five  to  six  days  and  heavy  charged  silk  in  eight 
to  fourteen  days,  it  being  possible  to  arrange  for  shorter 
deliveries  when  necessary.  One  yarn  dyer  is  able  to 
turn  out  and  ship  4,500  pounds  black  and  3,000  pounds 


SILK. 


217 


colored  daily.  Finishinj^  plants  arc  now  able  to  turn 
out  2,000  pieces  per  day.  Formerly  all  piece-dyed 
goods  made  abroad  were  dyed  in  Europe  and  Hnished 
there,  but  since  181*7  the  piece-dyeing  and  printing 
branches  in  the  United  States  have  greatly  enlarged 
their  facilities,  and  now  dye  and  print  not  only  large 
quantities  of  domestic  raw  goods,  but  also  some  im- 
ported goods.  The  domestic  production  of  piece-dyed 
good.s  as  shown  by  the  census  returns  is  presented  in 
the  following  statement: 


Quiuility. 

Value. 

Allsilk                            

Yards. 
7,3:!1,501 
S..i58,HS4 

63,312,167 

Silk  mi-\eci 

■-',  .%8, 606 

15.W)0,  385 


During  the  last  ten  years  ever}'  weave,  article,  and 
quality  known  to  mechanical  weaving,  or  which,  through 
alterations  on  machinery  or  simplitication  in  manufac- 
turing, could  be  put  in  reach  of  power-looni  weaving, 
have  been  manufactured  in  the  United  States.  With 
the  exception  only  of  a  few  Lyon  specialties,  which  for 
different  reasons  are  not  suitable  for  mechanical  weav- 
ing, every  style  which  the  silk  industi-y  brings  to  the 
niaiket  is  manufactured  in  the  silk  mill  of  to-day,  viz: 

Pure  silk  goods,  silk  and  wool,  and  silk  and  cotton 
mixtures  and  spun-silk  fabrics. 

Warp  prints  of  all  descriptions  and  piece-dyed  and 
printed  goods  in  everv'  variety. 

Plain  silks  of  all  weaves;  "  fancies,"  from  the  sim- 
plest to  the  most  complicated  styles,  and  Jacquards, 
broches,  etc. 

Light-weight  goods,  as  chiffons,  mousselines,  mar- 
celines,  and  the  heaviest  curtain  and  upholstery  silks. 

All  the  products  of  the  various  mills,  including  the 
great  variety'  of  dress  silks,  linings,  and  ti'immings; 
goods  for  the  cloak,  necktie,  and  millinery  trades;  and 
silks  for  the  manufacturers  of  silk  waists,  skirts,  um- 
brellas, and  parasols — all  these  give  most  convincing 
testimony  to  the  many-sidedness  of  the  American 
weaving  mill.  That  the  industry  has  in  a  compara- 
tively short  space  of  time  achieved  such  good  results 
may  be  attributed  to  the  enterprise  and  intelligence  of 
its  leading  men,  who  readily  experiment  with  new  and 
untried  methods  regardless  of  trouble  and  expense, 
even  if  there  is  only  small  hope  of  success. 

The  following  is  a  statement  in  round  numbers  of  the 
estimated  value  of  the  silk  production  of  Europe  and 
the  United  States  in  1900,  bv  countries,  with  the  per- 
centage that  the  production  of  each  country  forms  of 
the  total  production.  This  statement  includes  only  the 
value  of  finished  goods,  and  not  that  of  partially  manu- 
factured products.  The  several  countries  are  pre- 
sented in  the  order  of  their  importance  in  the  manu- 
facture. 


SILK   PRODUCTION  OF  KUROPK  .VXD  THE  I'NITED 
STATES:  1900.' 


Value  of 
annual  pro- 
duction. 

Per  cent 
of  pro- 
duction. 

Franco 

J12'2.0no.OOO 
92,IX)0,OCO 
73.000,000 
3h, 000, 000 
21,000,000 
17,000,000 
L^OOCOOO 
13,000,000 
4,  GOO,  000 

30  9 

23  3 

Switzerinnd  . 

9  6 

Russia  (in  Kurope) 

6  3 

4.3 

Great  Britain 

3  8 

Italv 

3.3 

Spai  u  and  Portugal 

1  0 

Total 

395,000,000 

100.0 

^  International  Universal  Kxposition  at  Paris:  Report  of  United  States  Com- 
missioner Peck:  Report  on  Silk  Fabrics,  contributed  by  Franklin  .\llen,  juror  of 
the  United  States  in  the  silk  section  (class  83).  Ctovernnient  Priming  Olice, 
Washington,  D.  C,  1901,  page  565. 


RELATIVE  POSITION  OF  FRANCE  AND  THE  UNITED  .STATES. 

The  annua!  production  of  France  is  claimed  to  be 
$122,000,000,  distributed  as  follows:' 

L\-on $80, 000, 000 

St.  Etienne  ( ribbons ) 20, 000,  000 

Paris 6, 000, 000 

Calais,  Le  Nord,  etc 16, 000, 000 

The  Lyon  manufactures,  therefore,  constitute  nearly 
two-thirds  of  the  production  of  France;  they  include, 
however,  a  considertible  (juantity  of  silk  and  cotton 
mixture  (melange),  the  manufacture  of  which  has  been 
greatly  developed  at  that  city.  The  total  is  further 
swollen  by  including  the  foulards  imported  from  Japan 
and  China,  which  are  valued  at  about  15,000,000  francs 
annually,  and.  being  printed  in  Lyon,  are  I'eturned  as 
Lyon  manufactures  with  a  value  of  20,000,000  francs. 
Strictly  speaking,  the  value  of  the  silk  woven  in 
another  country  should  not  be  included  in  any  correct 
statement  of  the  gross  volume  of  the  local  production. 
France  now  consumes  somewhat  less  raw  .silk  than  the 
United  States,  her  consumption  being  estimated  by  the 
•Lyon  Chamber  of  Commerce  at  9,000,000  pounds,  while 
that  of  the  United  States  during  the  census  year  was 
9,700,770  pounds.  New  York  city,  the  only  raw-silk 
market  in  America,  now  holds  the  first  phice  among 
the  raw-silk  markets  of  the  world,  Shanghai  alone 
excepted. 

More  raw  silk  is  sold  annually  in  New  York  than  is 
consumed  in  France,  which  is  the  largest  raw-silk  con- 
suming country  of  Europe.  As  to  the  selling  value  of 
the  product,  the  United  States  ranks  second,  being  sur- 
passed by  France,  which  still  dominates,  without  serious 
competition,  the  world's  markets  in  church  ornaments 
and  chasubles,  and  Parisian  specialties  representing  the 
supremacy  of  Paris  fashions  for  women's  wear.     Many 

'From  charts  exhibited  at  the  Paris  Exposition  of  1900,  indi- 
catinfT  the  annual  production  of  the  principal  silk  manufacturing 
countries,  prepared  by  Mr.  Marius  Morand,  secretary  of  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce  of  Lyon. 


218 


MANUFACTURES. 


of  these  are  made  on  handlooras,  the  quantitie.-*  re- 
quired in  different  patterns  and  style.s  beinif  so  limited 
that  tiieir  produetion  in  the  United  States  by  power- 
loom  weaving  would  not  be  protitable. 

world's  raw-silk  .supply. 

The  quantity,  character,  and  mercantile  condition  of 
the  raw  silk  received  from  the  several  sources  of  supply 
are  prime  factors  in  the  industry.  The  price  of  raw 
material  also  has  an  important  influence.  Wide  varia- 
tions in  price  are  a  great  disadvantage.  When,  on  the 
other  hand,  the  maximum  and  minimum  prices  steadily 
maintain  a  narrow  range  the  industry  is  benefited. 

Likewi.se  the  .stimulation  of  raw-silk  production 
through  the  development  of  new  centers  of  industrial 
activity  in  silk  manufacture,  as  in  the  United  States,  is 
a  general  benefit.  Steadier  and  more  moderate  prices 
follow  increased  production,  as  a  rule,  and  these  in  time 
encourage  the  use  of  silk  in  ever-widening  channels; 
the  cost  of  raw  silk  to  the  consumer  is  thereby  also 
greatly  diminished.  For  instance,  it  is  not  so  many 
years  since  the  buyers  of  cocoons  in  Europe  relied  upon 
and  received  a  profit  of  10  to  20  francs  a  kilo  for  the 


reeled  silk,  or  H~k  cents  to  Si. 7.5  a  pound,  and  in  the 
United  States,  in  the  earlier  days  of  che  indu.stry,  the 
importers  of  raw  silk  confidently  counted  upon  an  equal 
profit.  The  manufacturens  of  the  United  States  natu- 
rall}'  began  to  import  on  their  own  account,  and  as  a  re- 
sult of  their  competition  with  the  importers, the  differ- 
ence between  the  price  here  and  the  price  abroad  wa.s 
reduced  to  less  than  §1  per  pound.  It  is  suflicient  to 
say  that  to-day  the  competition  is  so  healthful,  owing  to 
the  increasing  rivalry  to  which  the  United  States  has  .so 
largely  contriljuted,  that  a  small  difference  in  the  price 
per  pound  often  determines  whether  the  purchase  is 
effected  here  or  abroad.  In  ''thrown  .>ilk"  the  contrast 
is  quite  as  great.  Many  men  now  living  recall  the  time 
when  the  silk  manufacturers  paid  as  high  as  $4.50  a 
pound  for  the  process  of  "throwing"  organzine  silk. 
Now  the  common  price  paid  is  from  60  to  75  cents  per 
pound,  depending  upon  the  condition  in  which  the  silk 
is  reeled  where  produced. 

Table  22  presents  the  total  raw-silk  production  of  the 
world,  showing  the  production  in  detail  of  the  several 
sources  of  supply,  at  five-year  periods,  from  1870  to 
1900,  inclusive,  the  weight  being  given  in  kilograms, 
and  in  the  aggregate  reduced  to  pounds. 


Table  22.— WORLD'S  PRODUCTION  OF  RAW  SILK,  IN  KILOGRAMS  AND  IN  POUNDS. 


COUNTRIES. 


1900 


1895 


1890 


1885 


18801 


18J51 


Europe;  Total . 


Kilograms. 
4,277,000 


Eiloqrams. 
4,761,000 


Italy  ... 
France  . 
Austria . 
Spain... 


3, 363, 000 

560,000 

276, 000 

78,000 

1,760.000 


Levant:  Total 

Asia:  Total  production  exported 10,730,000 


3, 509, 000 

896. 000 

266. 000 

90, 000 

1,244.000 

8,027,000 


Kiloorams. 
3,830,000 


KUoQrams. 
3,520,000 


Kilograms. 
3,608,000 


Kilograms. 
3,4.56,800 


Kilograms. 
3,817,000 


China,  Shanghai  ■'. 

china.  Canton 

Japan,  Yokohama . 
India,  Calcutta 


4,7.56,000 

2,253.000 

3.371,000 

350,000 


3,358,000 

1, 394, 000 

3,076,000 

199, 000 


2,  8.S0, 000 

618, 000 

267, 000 

65,000 

707, 000 

6,783,000 


2, 810, 000 

483,000 

142,000 

85,000 

730, 000 

5,676,000 


3,180,000 
637,000 


727,000 
6,242,000 


760,400 
5, 399, 700 


3,589,400 


2,914,000 

1,529,000 

2, 130, 000 

210.  WX) 


2, 695, 000 
774, 000 

1,346,000 
861,000 


1,680,400 

1,018,000 

423,000 

468,000 


Aggregate,  kilograms 16, 767, 000 

Aggregate,  reduced  to  pounds ,      36, 964, 528 


14,032,000 
30,934,947 


11,320,000 
24,956,072 


9, 926, 000 
21,882,860 


10,577,000  I 
23,318,054 


9,616,900 
21,201,418 


7,406,400 
16, 328, 149 


'  Estimated  from  best  information  obtainable.         =  Trustworthy  figures  of  the  world's  supply  prior  to  1870  can  not  be  given.  3  Tussah  sill;  not  included. 


The  following  .statement  shows  the  quantity  and  in- 
voice value  of  raw  silk  imported  into  the  United  States 
in  each  decennial  year  from  1860  to  1900,  inclusive,  and 
the  average  cost  per  pound,  taken  from  the  '"  Reports  of 
the  Bureau  of  Statistics  of  the  United  States  Treasury 
Department:" 


YE.\R. 

Pounds. 

Invoice 
value. 

Average 
co.=^t  per 
pound. 

I860 

297,877 

583,  .589 

2,  .562, 236 

5,943,360 

11,259,310 

$1,340,676 
3,017,9.58 
12,024.699 
23,28.5,099 
44,  .549, 672 

$4.50 

1870                    

5.17 

1880 

4.69 

1890                

3.92 

1900 

3.96 

A  rise  of  $1  per  pound  in  the  price  to  a  country  using. 
as  the  United  States  now  does,  about  10,000,000  pounds 


annually,  means,  therefore,  an  increase  of  about 
§10,000,000  in  the  cost  of  raw  material,  and  must  rep- 
resent that  much  financial  loss  to  the  manufacturers, 
unless  recouped  from  the  consumer. 

There  have  been  great  variations  in  the  price  mean- 
while, as  is  shown  by  the  following  quotations: 

In  1.S68  prices  of  raw  silk  averaged  fS.43  per  pound, 
the  highest  prices  of  Blue  Elephant  Tsatlee.  Best  Italian 
No.  1,  and  Japan  May  bash  No.  2  averaging  $9.29  per 
pound. 

In  1876  the  highest  prices  of  the  same  silks  averaged 
f9.10  per  pound. 

In  1894  the  lowest  prices  prevailed,  the  lowest  prices 
of  the  same  silks  averaging  $2.94  per  pound.  Canton 
Filature  Best  No.  2  was  quoted  at  $2. 61  per  pound.  The 
world's  supply  in  that  year  was  31.860,879  pounds. 


SILK. 


219 


The  recognition  by  silli  reelers  of  the  standards  of 
merit  required  by  the  most  progressive  silk  manufac- 
tuiers  is  also  of  great  commercial  and  industrial  im- 
portance. China  and  .Japan  are  the  two  largest  con- 
tributors to  the  world's  supply  from  their  surplus  pro- 
duction. As  a  result  of  the  close  attention  given  by 
(he  i)rogressive  Japanese  to  the  requirements  of  silk 
manufacturers  in  the  United  States,  a  much  larger  pro- 
portion of  the  raw  silk  consumed  in  the  United  States 
is  su|)piied  by  Japan  than  by  any  other  country.  The 
percentage  of  raw  silk  that  each  principal  producing 
country  contributes  to  the  world's  supply,  according  to 
the  statistics  for  1900,  shown  in  Table  22,  also  the  per- 
centage that  each  country  contributes  to  the  consump- 
tion of  raw  silk  in  the  United  States,  as  derived  from 
the  import  statistics  of  the  Treasury  Department  for 
the  same  period,  are  shown  in  the  following  statement: 


COl'NTRIES. 


China 

Japan  

Italy  

France 

All  other  countries 


Percent  of 
contribu- 
tion to 
world's 
supply. 


41  8 

20  1 

20.1 

3.3 

14.7 


100.0 


Per  cent  of 
American 
consump- 
tion. 


34.3 

42.3 

19.7 

3.2 

0.5 


100.0 


The  production  of  raw  silk  in  China  is  an  absolutely 
unknown  quantity.  When  prices  in  Europe  and  Amer- 
ica are  relatively  high  the  supply  increases  surpris- 
ingly. When  prices  are  normal  or  low  the  supply 
decreases.  It  is  manifest,  however,  that  hj  closer 
attention  to  the  United  States  market,  China  could 
greatly  extend  its  raw-silk  trade  with  this  country.  It 
is  to  be  hoped  that  an  efl'ort  will  be  successfully  made 
to  overcome  the  commercial  inditierence  of  Chinese 
merchants  to  the  trade  wants  of  their  customei's.  The 
vast  amount  of  capital  invested  and  the  large  number 
of  operatives  employed  in  the  silk  industrj'  throughout 
the  world  should  be,  it  would  seem,  a  commercial  stim- 


ulus to  China,  the  greatest  producer  of  raw  .silk,  to 
perfect  its  silk-reeling  processes  by  the  application  of 
skilled  labor,  so  as  to  secure  a  much  larger  share  than 
now  of  the  profits  of  a  business  in  which  the  country 
has  so  many  natural  advantages.  The  profit  of  her 
reelers  would  be  greater  if  the  output  of  her  filatures 
were  l)etter  adapted  to  the  requirements  of  foreign 
consumers. 

In  .Japan  the  domestic  consumption  of  raw  silk  is 
usually  estimated  at  about  .50  per  cent  of  the  produc- 
tion, the  remainder  being  exported. 

In  Italy  the  domestic  consumption  is  proljably  about 
15  per  cent  of  the  pi'oduction.  the  remaining  8.5  per 
cent  being  exported  to  supply  the  silk  manufacturers 
of  France,  Switzerland,  Germany,  Russia,  England, 
and  the  United  States. 

DETAILED   STATISTICS   OF   SILK   MANUFACTURE. 

The  detailed  statistics  for  the  industrj'  as  reported  are 
shown  in  Table  23  at  the  end  of  the  report.  This  table 
presents  separate  totals  for  each  state  in  which  there 
were  3  or  more  establishments,  and  groups  the  statistics 
for  other  states  so  as  not  to  disclose  the  operations 
of  individual  establishments.  The  establishments  are 
classified  according  to  the  character  of  the  ownership, 
which  shows  that  132  were  owned  Jiy  individuals,  154- 
Jjy  partnerships,  and  197  by  corporations.  The  em- 
ployees are  segregated  so  as  to  show  for  salaried  officers 
and  wage-earners» separately, the  number  and  .salaries  or 
wages  of  men,  women,  and  children,  respectivel3',  and 
also  the  average  number  of  wage-earners  employed 
during  each  month  of  the  year.  Separate  totals  of  the 
diflerent  materials  and  products  ai'e  shown.  The  num- 
ber of  machines,  spindles,  looms,  etc.,  are  presented, 
and  the  quantities  of  goods  dyed,  finished,  and  printed 
Ijj  silk  manufacturing  establishments  performing  such 
work;  also  the  number  of  engines,  water  wheels,  elec- 
tric motors,  and  other  power  in  use.  with  their  hoi'se- 
power.  The  483  establishments  are  grouped  according 
to  the  number  of  employees  in  each. 


220 


MANUFACTrKES. 


HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE. 


The  silk  industry  has  reached  the  point  whore  its 
future  seems  assured  as  a  permanent  branch  of  the  tex- 
tile industries  of  the  United  States,  ;uk1.  judjred  by  the 
foiunieiciul  eflect  that  its  establishment  in  this  country 
has  had  upon  improving  and  cheapening  the  processes 
of  manufacture,  and  in  lowerinsr  the  cost  of  silk  g-oods. 
every  American  can  take  pride  in  this  industrial  and 
commercial  achievement. 

The  silk  iuaker"s  art  in  the  United  States  was  trans- 
planted from  Europe,  but,  like  many  another  trans- 
planted art.  it  has  taken  such  a  firm  hold  on  the  business 
activities  of  the  country  that  it  has  become  thoroughly 
domesticated. 

The  beginning  of  the  industry  on  this  continent  dates 
back  to  the  Spanish  conquest  of  Mexico  in  the  Sixteenth 
century.  At  the  beginning  of  the  Seventeenth  century 
King  James  I  of  England  lent  his  royal  favor  by  be- 
stowing upon  the  London  Company  '"plenty  of  silk- 
worms, seed  of  his  own  store  being  the  best,"  and  by 
this  company  the  "seed"  was  sent  out  to  Jamestown, 
Ya.,  as  one  of  the  means  of  helping  the  early  colonists.' 

Simultaneous!}'  with  this  etl'ort  of  King  James  to 
develop  silk  culture  in  England  and  America.  Henry 
of  Navarre  (Henry  IV  of  France)  lirought  14,0(i(i  mul- 
berry trees  from  Italy,  which  were  planted  in  the  royal 
gardens  of  France."  Silkworm  eggs  were  also  pro- 
cured from  Italy,  and  other  measures  were  taken  bj- 
this  patriotic  king  to  encourage  the  nascent  industrj-  in 
France.  It  is  interesting  now  to  note  that  the  prime 
minister  of  the  King,  the  great  Duke  Sully,  looked 
coldly  upon  this  enterprise,  arguing  that  "'Lu-xury 
should  be  repressed,  most  certainh'  not  encouraged.'' 
But  the  King  had  been  converted  to  the  idea  by  Oliver 
de  Serres,  whom  the  French  honor  as  "the  father  of 
agriculture,"  and  was  not  moved  by  the  arguments  of 
the  minister.  Sully,  referring  to  this  matter  in  his 
Memoirs,  1603,  saj's:  "'I  could  not  persuade  him.  "Are 
these,'  the  King  said  to  me,  'the  good  reasons  j'ouhave 
to  offer?  1  would  much  rather  fight  the  King  of  Spain 
in  three  pitched  battles  than  all  those  gentlemen  of  the 
robe,  of  the  inkstand,  and  of  the  city,  l)eside  their 
wives  and  daughters,  whom  you  will  bring  down  upon 
me  with  your  fantastic  regulations.'"^ 

The  industr}',  thus  encouraged  in  Fi-ance  three  hun- 
dred years  ago,  made  notable  progress  both  as  to  culture 
and  manufacture.  In  America,  notwithstanding  the 
efforts  of  essayists  and  the  premiums  and  bounties 
offered  by  colonial  assemblies  and  by  the  English 
Parliament,  the  planters  could  not  be  stirred  to  uuich 
activity  in  raising  silk.     Silk  culture  by  the  colonists 

'  Silk  Industry,  Paris  Exposition,  1867,  by  Hon.  Elliott  C.  Cow- 
din,  United  States  commissioner,  Washington,  D.  C,  1868,  page7. 
Purchas,  His  Pilgrinies,  Vol.  IV,  page  1777. 

■■'Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States,  Report  on  Silk  Manu- 
facture, by  William  C.  Wyckoff,  special  agent,  page  1. 

"Menioirs  of  Sully,  London,  1778,  Vol.  V,  pages  150-159. 


would  evidently  have  been  a  good  thing  for  British 
manufacturers.  i)ut  the  record  of  histor}^  is  that  it  had 
a  fitful,  uncertain  existence.  From  1750  to  1772.  the 
period  of  its  greatest  activity  before  the  Revolution, 
the  export  of  raw  silk  averaged  only  500  poiuids  per 
anniuu  and  rarely  exceeded  1,000  pounds  in  a  single 
year.' 

For  many  years  after  the  War  of  the  Revolution 
premiums  and  bounties  for  planting  mulberry  trees  and 
for  producing  raw  silk  were  authorized  by  a  number  of 
states.  In  New  England,  New  York,  New  Jersey,  and 
Pennsylvania,  especially,  great  interest  was  taken  in  the 
subject.  Dr.  Ezra  Stiles,  president  of  Yale  College, 
at  New  Haven,  Conn.,  and  Dr.  Benjamin  Franklin,  of 
Philadelphia,  were  among  the  most  notable  promoters 
of  the  movement.  In  December,  1825,  the  subject  of 
silk  culture  began  to  receive  national  attention,  being 
brought  before  Congress  by  a  resolution  of  inquiry  in- 
troduced by  Mr.  !Miner,  of  Pennsylvania,  and  referred 
to  the  Committee  on  Agriculture.  This  committee  re- 
ported favorably  in  the  spring  of  1826,  the  report  in- 
cluding a  resolution  directing  the  Secretaiy  of  the 
Treasury  to  cause  to  be  prepared  a  well-digested  manual 
on  the  growth  and  manufacture  of  silk.  Inquiries  for 
information  on  the  subject  were  sent  out  by  the  Secre- 
tary. Mr.  Richard  Rush,  in  1826;  and  from  the  replies 
and  other  inat<^'rial  a  manual  was  compiled  entitled 
"Letter  from  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury."  dated 
Februaiy  7,  1828.  Six  thousand  copies  were  printed 
by  order  of  Congress.*  This  document  became  known 
as  the  "Rush  Letter;"  it  contains  220  pages,  besides 
illustrations  of  machinery,  and  is  a  carefulh"^  executed 
work. 

This  favorable  action  and  the  publication  bj-  Con- 
gress at  the  same  session,  and  at  many  subsequent  ses- 
sions, of  other  documents  relating  to  silk  culture, 
together  with  the  serious  consideration  of  the  subject 
by  the  Congressional  Committee  on  ^Manufactures,  as 
well  as  by  the  Committee  on  Agriculture,  enlisted 
general  attention.  Sericulture  gained  the  public  ear. 
Legislatures  of  several  states  passed  bills  for  its 
encouragement,  and  a  most  determined  effort  was  made 
to  place  silk  growing  on  a  paying  basis.  For  ten  years 
all  went  well.  Silk  conventions  were  held  in  INIary- 
land.  New  Jersey,  New  York,  and  Connecticut,  between 
December,  1838,  and  April,  1889,  and  there  were  many 
other  gatherings  devoted  to  the  cause.  What  .soon 
proved  to  be  a  disturbing  element  had.  however,  been 
introduced  by  an  effort  to  supplant  the  white  mulberry, 
Morus  alha,  on  the  leaves  of  which  the  worms  had  been 
fed,  by  the  so-called  Chinese  mulberry,  the  Murus 
multicauUs,  on  account  of  the  superior  qualities  claimed 

'Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States,  Report  on  Silk  Manufac- 
ture, bv  William  C.  Wyckoff,  special  agent,  page  10. 
'  H.  R.  Doc.  158,  Twentieth  Congress,  first  session. 


SILK. 


221 


for  it.  All  the  ii<jri(ultunil  litoi':itui'(>  in  the  countiT 
.soon  became  sutlused  with  the  de.scriptions  of  this 
wonderful  tree.  Speeulation  began,  and  prices  of  trees 
advanced  far  be,vond  their  value.  Large  as  were  the 
anticipated  profits  of  ])i'oduciiio-  silk,  they  were  insig- 
nilicant  as  compared  with  the  fortunes  to  be  made  by 
raisitig  the  new  inulberr3'  tree.  Orchards  of  it  were 
i;lanted  in  every  state  in  the  Union.  With  increasing 
velocity  the  tide  of  speculation  rose.  Trees  l)(>came  of 
greater  value  than  the  silk  which  they  could  by  any 
possibility  be  the  means  of  jiroducing.  One  writer  says: 
"  Prices  ranged  for  trees  produced  from  one  bud  or 
cutting  and  of  a  single  season's  growtli,  from  5  cents  to 
10.  20,  50  cents,  ?^l,  and  in  some  instances  $5  a])iece."' 

The  list  of  stock  couipanies  formed  for  raising  and 
manufacturing  silk  at  this  period  is  very  long',  but  as 
Mr.  "William  C.  Wyckoft',  writing  the  report  on  Silk 
Manufactures  for  the  Tenth  Census  of  the  United  States 
(1880),  says  of  them,  "Their  lives  were  very  short." 
The  bul)ble  burst  in  1839.  Silk  culturists  and  nianu- 
factui'ers  had  everywhere  been  swept  into  the  rising- 
current.  As  for  the  tree  speculators,  it  is  related  that 
one  who  had  l)een  among  the  most  successful  sent  an 
agent  to  France  with  -^SO.OOi)  to  buy  ti-ees  and  cuttings 
in  the  winter  of  1838-39.  Before  the  whole  of  his  pur- 
chase had  ai'rived  the  crisis  had  come.  The  nui'ser}'- 
man  had  failed  for  so  large  a  sum  that  he  could  never 
reckon  up  his  indebtedness,  and  the  next  spring  his 
2[iiJiicindls  trees  were  ofl'ered  in  vain  to  the  neighbor- 
ing farmers  at  %1  a  hundred  for  pea  brush." 

Notwithstanding  the  favorable  climatic  conditions 
both  in  France  and  the  United  States  for  the  growth  of 
nuilberry  trees  and  the  rearing  of  silk  worms  and 
cocoons,  silk  culture  has  dwindled  in  both  countries, 
Ijecause  more  remunerative  occupations  are  afforded 
by  other  lines  of  industry.  Although  in  France  the 
raisers  of  cocoons  and  reelers  of  silk  are  protected  bj' 
a  considerable  1)ounty,  payable  by  the  French  Gov- 
erimient  to  her  citizens  as  against  the  Italians,  that 
country  produces  less  than  4  per  cent  of  the  world's 
supply  of  raw  silk.  Her  silk  manufacturers  are  well 
content  to  purchase,  as  America  does,  the  raw  silk  from 
Italj',  Japan,  and  China,  in  all  of  which  countries  the 
ruling  I'ates  of  wages  are  nuich  less  than  in  France  and 
viM-y  much  less  than  in  the  United  States.  Both  France 
and  the  United  States  pursue  the  same  fiscal  policy  of 
admitting  raw  silk  free  of  duty  and  therefore  both  are 
on  a  par  in  this  respect.  Under  this  policy  Finance 
produces  ovAy  a  small  portion  of  the  raw  silk  needed 
for  its  silk  manufactures.  whiK^  in  the  United  States 
silk  culture,  which  was  introduced  siuuiltaneouslv  to  its 
stimulation  in  France  three  hundred  years  ago,  prac- 
tically ceased  to  e.xist  in  1844,  although  since  that  date 
sporadic  attempts  to  revive  it  have  l)een  made  in  Cali- 

'  The  Silk  Industry  of  ttie  United  States  from  1766  to  1S74,  by 
A.  T.  Lillv,  Florence,  Mass.,  1875,  page  8. 

■'Tlip'silk  Industry  of  America,  by  L.  P.  Brockett,  JI.  D.,  New 
York,  ]S70,  page  40. 


fornia  and  more  recently  in  Kansas  and  at  Salt  I^ake 
City,  Utah. 

Meanwhile,  step  by  step,  ))ut  slowly,  improvements 
have  been  effected  here  in  the  manufacture  of  silk 
goods.  The  making  of  sewing  silk  became  a  house- 
hold industry  in  New  England,  at  first  by  hand,  and 
later  by  machinery.  The  manufacture  of  silk  trim- 
mings of  various  kinds  was  commenced  in  1815  at 
Philadelphia,  and  ribbons  in  1829,  at  Baltimore.^  The 
invention  of  the  sewing  machine  in  the  United  States 
developed  a  demand  for  "machine  twist,"  a  silk  thread 
specially  suited  for  use  on  .sewing  machines  and  first 
appl  led  to  that  purpo.se  in  February,  1852.  These  goods, 
'  together  with  fringes,  gimps,  and  tassels,  and  a  few 
ribbons,  continued  to  be  the  principal  products  of  the 
silk  industry  in  the  United  States  until  the  outbreak  of 
the  Civil  War. 

One  of  the  foremost  silk  manufacturers  of  the  United 
States,  the  first  vice-president  of  the  Silk  Association 
of  America,  in  a  recently  published  treatise  on  the  silk 
textile  industrj',  correctly  sets  forth  the  reasons  for  its 
powerful  development  in  recent  years, .as  follows:' 

As  reasons  for  the  rapid  as  well  as  powerful  development  of  the 
United  States  silk  industry,  notwithstanding  the  competition  of 
well-introduced  imported  goods  and  the  splendid  organization  of 
the  importers,  and  in  spite  of  the  mistrust  which  was  felt  \i\ 
consumers  for  a  long  time  against -the  domestic  goods,  we  find; 

1.  The  natural  capability  of  the  American  merchant  and  manu- 
facturer, his  common  sense,  enterprise,  and  self-contidence. 

2.  The  capital  which  is  always  ready  to  support  enterprise  in 
this  country  in  the  form  of  extensive  and  liberal  credits. 

3.  The  support  which  is  given  all  these  undertakings  by  the 
people,  by  the  city  and  state  governments  in  form  of  tax  privileges, 
donations  of  lots,  putting  up  mill  buildings,  and  renting  same  at  a 
low  rate  of  interest;  even  in  some  cases  by  subscribing  a  certain 
amount  of  the  necessary  woi'king  capital. 

4.  The  intellectuality  of  the  American  technician,  who  tlirough 
his  inventions  of  time-saving  machinery,  which  are  simply  con- 
structed and  easy  to  handle,  is,  perhaps,  unequaled.  The  operative 
also  is  moderate  and  his  common  sense  makes  him  especially  fit 
for  the  manufacturing  lousiness. 

5.  The  easy  intercourse  between  manufacturer  and  dealer  which 
enables  the  first  to  get  fully  and  promptly  acquainted  with  the 
needs  and  wants  of  the  consumer. 

The  last  point  can  not  be  too  stronglj'  emphasized. 
In  a  large  sense  the  American  manufacturer  is  his  own 
merchant  and  distributer.  He  is  in  close  touch  with 
the  dealers  and  retailers,  knows  what  they  want,  and 
manufactures  accoi-dingly.  Silk  manufacturers  abroad 
(especially  in  France  and  Switzerland)  are  fully  aware 
of  this  requisite  to  successful  trade.  The  closer  silk 
tnanufacturers  get  to  the  consumer,  the  greater  the  suc- 
cess they  achieve.  When  to  this  genius  for  trade  is 
added  the  unconquerable  energy  and  persevering  invent- 
iveness of  the  silk  manufacturer  in  the  United  States; 
the  superior  intelligence  and  push  of  the  operatives, 
both  skilled  and  unskilled;  the  perfection  of  methods 

'Manual  of  American  Silk  Trade,  1873,  by  Franklin  Allen,  sec- 
retary of  the  Silk  Association  of  America,  New  York,  pages  22-23. 

*'Twenty-ninth  Annual  Report  of  the  Silk  Association  of  Amer- 
ica, New  Y'ork,  March  26,  1891,  pages  48  and  49. 


222 


MANUFACTURES. 


by  "throwsters"  in  rapidity,  certainty,  and  economy; 
the  .simplicity  of  hioh-specd  looms  in  weaving;  quick 
deliveries  and  perfectly  satisfactory  work  in  yarn  dye- 
ing. i)iece  dyeing,  finishing,  and  printing;  and  the  ready 
adoption,  at  whatever  cost,  of  every  improvement  known 
anywhere  in  silk  manufacturing,  the  general  excellence 
of  the  product  manufactured  in  the  United  States,  and 
its  consequent  success,  is  accounted  for. 

In  England  the  silk  industry  has  suffered  a  great 
decline  since  1860.  In  recent  years  leading  manu- 
facturers there  have  emphasized  the  importance  of 
specially  organized  technical  schools  for  the  education 
of  artisans  and  for  teaching  drawing  and  designing  to 
selected  pupils.  In  the  United  States  every  large  silk 
plant  is  a  school  of  design,  a  teacher  of  scientific  and 
technical  education.  All  such  plants  have  a  corps  of 
skillful  designers,  and  many  are  in  touch  with  artists 
and  establishments  abroad,  whence  is  derived  the 
latest  information  concerning  novelties  in  all  lines  of 
manufacture.  Skillful  chemists  are  likewise  attached 
to  these  plants,  and,  in  fact,  all  processes  of  the  indus- 
try proceed  simultaneously  under  one  management. 
To  the  clerk  and  workman  is  given  a  certain  independ- 
ence and  freedom  of  action,  no  restraint  being  put 
upon  his  enterprise.  Fulfillment  of  his  duty  is  all  that 
is  required.  That  such  a  system  improves  the  working 
methods  and  produces  better  results  is  plainly  evident 
from  the  census  figures. 

IMPROVEMENTS  IN  THROWING  AND  WEAVING  MACHINERY. 

Throwing. — The  past  decade  has  not  been  marked 
by  many  changes  in  the  throwing  of  silk.  Eflorts  have 
been  concentrated  upon  increasing  labor  efhciency,  in 
saving  waste,  and  similar  economies,  demanded  by  the 
constantly  decreasing  scale  of  prices.  Larger  mills 
have  been  built  and  equipped  with  the  most  modern 
appliances  for  heating,  lighting,  power,  and  manufac- 
turing; smaller  mills  have  been  consolidated  into  larger 
establishments,  thus  lessening  the  general  expenses; 
antiquated  and  worn-out  equipments  have  been  replaced 
by  modern  and  more  economical  machines,  the  constant 
effort  being  to  reduce  cost  of  production.  The  success 
achieved  has  not,  however,  kept  pace  with  the  reduc- 
tion in  price  of  the  product;  and  the  throwster  during 
these  years  has  been  confronted  more  or  less  with  the 
problem  of  constantly  increasing  wages  demanded  by 
operatives,  and  decreasing  prices  paid  by  the  manufac- 
turers. 

As  regards  machinery,  the  principal  efforts  have  been 
to  save  space  and  processes;  winding  frames  have  been 
improved  so  as  to  produce  more  perfectly  wound  spools 
at  higher  speed,  and  obviate  the  necessity  for  redraw- 
ing. In  the  latest  improved  winding  frame  the  bobbin 
is  carried  b}^  a  spindle  having  two  heads  resting  upon 
the  driving  wheels,  its  bearings  being  supported  upon 
inclined  planes  that  sustain  most  of  the  weight,  yet 
force  the  spindle  into  sufficient  contact  with  the  friction 


wheel  to  secure  a  positive  drive,  the  doulilc  .=aipport 
allowing  high  speed  without  tiirowiiig  out  the  spindle. 

Double-decking  the  winding  frame  has  also  been 
adopted  by  some  to  economize  space  and  has  some 
merits,  though  not  generally  adopted. 

The  doubling  frame  has  also  been  jxsrfccted,  allowing 
the  work  to  be  done  at  about  double  the  speed  and  with 
better  results;  the  old  "flyer"  and  ''jack-pin"  system 
has  been  displaced  by  a  cap  on  the  bobbin,  b\-  means  of 
which  the  thread  can  be  drawn  off  naturally'  and  the 
desired  tension  applied  alike  upon  the  assembled 
threads. 

In  spinning,  the  belt  system,  so  called,  where  the 
spindles  are  driven  by  contact  with  an  endless  belt  in- 
stead of  with  bands,  has  been  adopted  in  all  new  instal- 
lations; The  many  advantages  of  this  type  of  frame 
were  at  once  recognized,  and  at  the  present  date  over 
one-half  of  the  spinning  spindles  in  the  countiy  are  of 
this  S3'stem,  although  onlj'  first  practicallv  introduced  in 
1889.  This  belt-drive  system  adapted  to  the  modern 
self-oiling  spindle  instantly  won  favor  and  adoption. 
A  double-deck  machine  of  this  type  quicklj-  followed, 
giving  double  the  number  of  spindles  in  the  same  space, 
still  further  solving  the  problem  of  economy  and  being 
generally  adopted.  In  1895  a  combined  spinner  and 
doulilcr  was  designed,  and  it  was  soon  evident  that  this 
invention  had  solved  another  great  expense-saving 
problem  and  at  the  same  time  effected  an  improve- 
ment in  the  quality  of  the  product.  In  the  few  years 
the  last  S3'stem  has  been  practically  upon  the  market 
90,000  spindles  have  been  put  in  use,  or  1.5  per  cent  of 
the  total  number  of  first-time  spindles.  The  system 
has,  moreover,  been  introduced  into  several  foreign 
countries,  and  it  has  been  adopted  by  the  technical 
schools  of  England  and  Switzerland  as  the  most  practi- 
cal system  of  spinning  organzine.  This  is  a  very  sub- 
stantial acknowledgment  of  the  superiority  of  United 
States  machinery  for  silk  throwing  over  that  of  the 
rest  of  the  world. 

During  the  past  ten  years  efforts  have  been  made  to 
solve  the  problem  of  spinning,  doubling,  and  twisting 
organzine  in  one  process,  which  have  finally  resulted 
in  the  production  of  a  practical  machine,  but  of  the 
old  band-drive  system.  A  machine  for  this  system  of 
the  belt-drive  type,  for  which  is  claimed  greater  sim- 
plicity combined  with  increased  effectiveness,  has  also 
been  designed.  It  is  too  early  as  yet  to  say  what  the 
future  of  these  machines  will  be,  but  they  promise  a 
large  percentage  of  saving  in  the  cost  of  production, 
with  a  decided  improvement  in  quality,  and  at  the  same 
time  a  reduction  in  the  cost  of  the  equipment  of  a  plant. 

While  during  .the  past  decade  there  have  not  been 
such  great  changes  in  throwing  appliances  as  distin- 
guished previous  decades,  there  have  been  many  marked 
improvements  on  the  lines  so  briefly  mentioned,  and  it 
can  be  said,  fi-om  personal  observation  in  many  of  the 
largest  spinning  mills  in  Europe,  that  in  every  step  of 


SILK. 


this  branch  of  the  silk  industry  the  United  States  ex- 
cels; our  operatives  tend  a  larj^er  number  of  spindles; 
and,  in  spite  of  the  higher  wayes  paid  here,  the  cost  of 
production,  pound  for  pound,  aside  from  fuel  and  rents, 
will  in  nearly  every  case  prove  to  be  the  lowest  in  the 
world. 

The  results  from  improvements  in  throwinof  ma- 
chinery durino;  the  past  decade  can  therefore  be  broadly 
summed  up  in  the  statement  that  these  improvements 
have  made  possible  a  saving-  of  about  -iO  per  cent  in 
the  floor  space  needed  and  about  20  per  cent  in  cost  of 
production  over  the  older  s^'stem,  Hguring  all  the  sav- 
ings I'esulting  from  less  floor  space,  power,  and  pro- 
cesses required  to  turn  out  a  corresponding  amount  of 
work. 

Weaving. — The  rapid  strides  made  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  power  loom,  together  with  the  skill  of 
American  labor,  have  made  the  substitution  of  power 
looms  for  hand  looms,  which  has  been  a  noticeadle  fea- 
ture of  the  industry  for  the  last  three  decades,  especially 
marked  during  the  past  decade,  so  much  so  that  the  sta- 
tistics indicate  the  practically  complete  supersession  of 
the  hand  loom  by  the  power  loom,  there  being  in  use, 
as  reported,  but  173  of  the  former  as  compared  with 
44,257  of  the  latter. 

There  are  in  successful  operation  in  the  silk  mills  of 
the  United  States  to-da}-  nearly  two  and  a  half  times  as 
many  power  looms  as  there  were  ten  j^ears  ago.  While 
improvements  have  been  made  constantly  in  the  con- 
struction of  these  power  looms  ever  since  their  intro- 
duction, probablj^  the  past  ten  years  have  witnessed 
the  most  rapid  strides  in  this  direction.  These  im- 
provements have  resulted  in  the  production  of  a  loom 
of  high  efficiencj',  equipped  with  mechanical  devices 
designed  for  the  saving  of  both  time,  labor,  and  mate- 
rial, such  as  the  numerous  multipliers,  two-weave,  leno, 
swivel,  embroidery  motions,  and  manj'  other  devices, 
all  arranged  to  operate  automatically,  by  the  use  of 
which  marvelous  results  may  be  obtained. 

Formerh^  the  accomplishment  of  some  of  the  above 
results,  if  possible  at  all  on  the  power  loom,  required 
the  use  of  a  long  pattern  or  indicator  chain.  Some  of 
the  principal  progress  has  consisted  in  the  invention  of 
devices  for  facilitating  the  saving  of  such  materials  as 
this  pattern  or  indicator  chain.  By  dispensing  with 
this  long  and  cumbersome  attachment  the  loom  is  made 
capable  of  mach  higher  speed. 

Among  the  multipliers  particularly  worthy  of  men- 
tion, in  addition  to  the  well-known  multiplier  for  the 
box  chain,  wherebj'  any  shuttle  box  maj^  be  called  at 
will,  and  any  color  used  as  long  as  desired,  is  the  so- 
called  two-weave  multiplier,  by  the  use  of  which  two 
distinct  weaves  are  produced  in  the  loom  and  indicated 
from  the  same  pattern  chain. 

Another  multiplier,  known  as  the  manifold  multiplier, 
consists  of  a  mechanical  device  which,  when  used  in 
addition  to  the  two-weave  motion,  makes  it  possible  to  ] 


produce  three  or  mor(>  distinct  weaves  in  the  loom; 
each  weave  may  be  entirely  different  from  the  others. 
In  fact,  there  is  hardly  any  limit  to  the  mnnhcr  of  weaves 
that  may  be  produced  l)y  the  use  of  this  mechanism,  the 
change  from  one  weave  to  the  other  being  made  auto- 
matically when  the  loom  is  in  full  operation. 

Among  the  many  other  improvements,  the  progress 
made  in  producing  leno  efl'ects  might  be  mentioned. 
Present  methods  and  attachments  for  pi'oducing  this 
class  of  work  are  far  in  advance  of  the  old  methods, 
resulting  in  much  saving  of  doups  and  in  less  breakage 
of  war))  threads.  The  old  method  of  using  two  beams, 
one  for  the  whip  thread  and  one  for  the  standard  thread, 
is  now  generally-  superseded  Ijy  taking  all  the  threads 
from  one  beam,  luiless  the  pattern  calls  fOr  a  design 
in  which  the  whip  thread  is  longer  than  the  standard 
thread.  Slackeners  are  used  only  on  such  threads  as 
require  them,  instead  of  rocking  the  whole  warp  beam. 

The  lappet  motion  has  also  been  successfully  applied 
to  ditferent  types  of  looms  during  recent  years,  and  at 
the  present  time  these  motions  are  liuilt  with  one,  two, 
three,  and  four  bars  or  rows  of  needles,  producing  some 
beautiful  efl'ects  on  the  surface  of  the  goods. 

The  cross-weave  loom  produces  a  novel  open-work 
effect  in  the  woven  fabric.  A  .series  of  forked  needles 
engages,  as  desired,  selected  groups  of  warp  threads 
and  crosses  them  over  adjacent  groups  previous  to  the 
forming  of  the  shed.  After  the  passing  of  the  shuttle 
and  the  beating  up  of  the  laj-,  the  warp  threads  resume 
their  normal  position  for  plain  weaving  until  again 
called  for  the  cross-over  process.  A  recent  improve- 
ment produces  an  undulating  or  wavv  efl'ect  by  virtue 
of  a  movable  reed,  whose  dents  are  inclined  at  differ- 
ent angles  instead  of  being  parallel,  alternate  groups 
of  dents  spreading  upward,  and  intermediate  groups 
spreading  downward,  so  that  the  gradual  raising  and 
lowering  of  the  reed  produces  a  spi'eading  of  the  warp 
threads  at  one  point  and  a  closing  up  at  another. 

The  embroidery  loom  was  especially  designed  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  flgure  on  a  light  ground  of  cloth 
while  the  cloth  is  being  woven,  without  waste  of  stock 
or  material.  Although  the  ground  maj'  be  a  light 
weight  of  goods,  the  flgure  is  thick  and  compact  in 
appearance.  This  effect  can  not  be  produced  on  a 
regular  broad-silk  loom,  as  the  flUing,  when  not  wanted 
to  show  in  the  flgure,  must  be  buried  in  the  body  of  the 
goods,  and,  moreover,  for  this  reason  there  is  a  con- 
siderable waste  of  material. 

Swivel  looms  built  to-da\'  have  one,  two,  or  three 
banks  of  swivel  shuttles,  so  that  it  is  possible  to  put  as 
many  as  three  colors  in  each  flgure  at  will  with  almost 
no  loss  or  waste  of  material. 

The  principal  difl'erence  between  the  swivel  and 
embroidery  looms  as  built  to-day  is  that  in  the  former 
the  flguresare  usually  arranged  a  certain  distance  apart 
in  the  goods,  while  in  the  latter  a  flgure  the  entire  width 
of  the  goods  mav  be  made  if  desired. 


224 


MANUFACTURES. 


Outside  of  these  special  features  there  are  many 
types  of  wliiit  ini<;lit  lie  tcniKMl  standui-d  looms  used 
to-day  foi-  the  manufacture  of  l)road  silks.  In  this  con- 
nection special  mention  should  be  made  of  the  improve- 
ment by  which  all  classes  of  taffeta  ctlects.  formerly 
made  on  hand  looms  only,  are  now  successfully  made  on 
power  looms. 

The  hii^hest  typo  of  loom  desio-n(>d  for  best  or-i-ades  of 
fabrics,  both  plain  and  fancy,  is  fitted  with  a  positive 
head  motion  by  which  the  harnesses  or  shafts  are  posi- 
tively raised  and  lowered.  The  dobby  loom  is  similar 
in  construction  to  the  above-mentioned  loom,  but  a 
dobby  is  substituted  in  place  of  the  positive  head 
motion,  th(^  harness  shafts  beino-  raised  by  the  dobljy 
but  pulled  down  by  springs.  The  cam  loom,  the  har- 
ness shafts  being  controlled  by  cams  which  are  posi- 
tive in  their  action,  is  somewhat  limited  in  weaves  and 
designs  by  reason  of  the  weave  being  dependent  on 
these  cams.  On  the  two  tirst-mentioned  classes  of  looms 
almost  any  weave  may  be  produced,  the  head  motion 
or  the  dobby  being  controlled  l)y  means  of  a  pattern 
chain  which  can  be  changed  or  made  over  at  will.  On 
the  Jacquaixl  loom  the  weave  is  controlled  entirely  by 
theJacquard.  On  all  of  these  types  of  looms  shuttle- 
box  uiotions  of  diti'erent  capacities  may  be  employed, 
allowing  the  use  of  from  one  to  seven  colors. 

In  the  Jacquard,  which  forms  so  important  a  factor 
in  the  production  of  broad  silks,  there  has  been  nearly 
as  much  improvement  as  in  the  loom  itself,  particularly 
as  regards  the  saving  of  cards  and  increased  speed. 
The  present  double-cjdinder  cross-border  machine  ac- 
complishes about  the  same  result  on  the  loooi  as  does 
the  manifold  multiplier  described  above.  Attachments 
are  now  added  to  the  Jacquard  so  that,  through  a  suit- 
able intermediate  mechanism,  the  pattern  or  box  chain 
is  not  required  at  all  on  the  loom,  the  Jacquard  cards 
being  so  punched  that  the  shuttle  boxes  are  controlled 
by  the  Jacquard,  thus  obviating  the  possibility  of  the 
Jacquard  getting  out  of  time  with  the  shuttle  boxes  of 
the  loom. 

In  addition  to  the  many  improvements  referred  to  in 
looms  designed  for  broad  silks,  the  changes  that  have 
taken  place  in  the  development  of  the  ril)bon  loom  must 
not  be  overlooked.  These  looms,  as  l)uilt  to-da\',  ara 
capable  of  very  high  speed,  and  show  a  great  advance 
overthe  "Swiss"  and  "German"  types  of  looms  which 
were  almost  universally  used  in  this  country  ten  or 
fifteen  years  ago.  The  modern  ribbon  loom  was  first 
designed  and  built  in  this  country  and  has  been  con- 
stantly improved,  until  to-day  it  has  reached  a  very 
high  state  of  perfection.  Under  the  old  method  of 
handling  the  warp  it  was  necessary  to  employ  men  on 
the  looms.  Under  the  present  arrangement  of  the 
loom  the  warp  is  placed  on  l)cams  similar  to  broad-silk 
looms,  and  each  individual  warp  is  let  off'  automatically 
from  each  beam,  making  it  entirelj-  unnecessary  for 
the  weaver  to  go  behind  the  loom  for  this  purpose. 

The  best  type  of  ribbon  loom,  the  high-speed  auto- 


matic, embodies  all  the  latest  improvements  of  construc- 
tion; it  is  adapted  to  high-grade  Jac(|uard  work,  where 
high  speed  has  been  slow  of  adoption,  and  to  single- 
shuttle  Jacquard  work  on  labels,  etc.;  it  has  the  auto- 
matic let-off'  system  for  the  warps,  is  cupiible  of  a  more 
uniform  weave  than  the  old  machine,  and  has  greater 
productive  capacit}'. 

There  has  recently  been  perfected  a>very  efficient  silk- 
velvet  ribbon  loom  which  is  destined  to  till  a  very  im- 
portant place  in  the  ribbon  industry.  This  loom  will 
produce  the  best  quality  of  silk-velvet  ribbon  at  a  very 
high  speed  for  this  class  of  work,  the  pile  being  cut 
automatically  in  the  loom.  It  is  one  of  the  latest  tri- 
umphs of  American  skill  in  the  art  of  weaving. 

The  modern  power  loom  is  the  result  of  much  study 
and  inventive  genius,  and  with  it  to-day  can  be  pro- 
duced many  fabrics  which  ten  years  ago  it  was  impos- 
sible to  make  except  by  hand.  Nowhere  has  this  devel- 
opment been  so  pronounced  and  successful  as  in  the 
United  States. 

DATE    OF    THE    ESTABLISHMENT    OF    THE    SILK    INDUSTRY 
IN    CITIES,  TOWNS,   ETC. 

Incident  to  the  growth  of  the  industry,  silk  mills  have 
been  established  in  nearlj'  all  the  New  England  and 
Middle  states  and  in  some  of  the  Western  and  vSouthern 
states.  Pennsylvania  has  been  the  greatest  gainer  in  this 
respect  during  the  last  decade.  Delaware,  Virginia, 
and  North  Carolina  have  also  attracted  silk  mills  liy 
liberal  inducements  to  manufacturers. 

The  dates  of  starting  the  silk  industiw  in  the  Nine- 
teenth centuiy  in  some  of  the  more  important  places  in 
various  states,  and  the  classes  of  goods,  are  shown  in 
the  following  statement.  It  should  be  understood  that 
in  order  to  avoid  duplication  of  towns  in  this  statement 
only  the  first  date  at  which  any  branch  of  the  industiy 
was  inaugurated  is  given.  Thus,  in  Philadelphia,  when 
W.  H.  Horstman  commenced  the  manufacture  of  dress 
trimmings,  1S1.5  is  mentioned,  whereas  the  commence- 
ment there  of  the  manufacture  of  sewing  silk  in  1843 
and  of  ribbons  in  1852  are  omitted. 


YEAR. 

Plaue. 

Class  of  goods. 

1S15 

PEKXSYLVANIA. 

1879 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram,  organzine.  and  broad  silks. 

1S80 

1881 

Hawley 

issi 

Spun-silk  yarns. 
Tram  and  organzine. 

1S83 

Elision 

1886 

Tram  and  organzine. 
Spun  silk.  Iaee.<.  and  braids. 
Tram,  organzine.  and  broad  silks. 
Tram,  organzine,  broad  silks,  and  rib- 
bons. 
Tram,  organzine.  and  broad  silks. 

1886 

Ciitasauqua     .        .  . 

1886 

1886. 

Ea>*t  Mauch  Chunk  .     . 

1886 

Sovith  Bethlehem 

1H8C 

1886 

Wilkesbarre 

Surah  and  tigured  pongees. 

18S7 

1887 

1887 

1SS7 

Pittston. 

Poilsville 

Reading 

bons. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram,  organzine.  and  broad  silks. 

1888 

1888 

Bloomsburg .' 

Tram,  organzine,  and  broad  silks. 

1888 

Tram  and  organzine. 

1S91 

Carlisle 

Tram  and  organzine. 

1891 

Eden 

Silk  and  cotloii  curtains. 

SILK. 


225 


1892. 
1892. 
1893. 


Place. 


PENNSYLVANIA — continued. 


Class  of  goods. 


1894.. 
1895.. 
1895.. 
1896.. 
1896.. 
1896.. 
1897. . 
1897.. 
1897. . 
1897.. 
1897.. 
1897.. 
1897.. 
1897.. 
1897., 
1898., 
1898. 
1898. 


1898. . 
1898. . 
1898. . 
1898. . 
1898. . 
1899.. 
1899.. 

1899.. 
1899. . 
1899.. 
1899. . 
1899.. 
1899. . 
1899.. 
1899., 
1899. 
1900. 
1900. 
1900. 
1900. 
1900. 
1900. 
1900. 


Columbia 

Hanover 

Emaus 

Williamsport .. 

Hallstead 

Carbondale 

Taylor 

Avoca 

Marietta 

Sunbury 

Alburtis 

Bath 

Danville 

Ephrata 

Fleetwood 

Freeland 

Plymouth 

Pottstown 

Titusville 

Athens  

Coatesville  — 

Dunmore 

Hnzelton 

Jermyn 

Lancaster 

Newberry 

Now  Holland. 

New  Hope — 

Parsons 

Phoenixville  . 

West  Pittston . 

York 

Aquashicola.. 

Dickson  City . 


Forest  City 

Kutztown 

Lansdale 

Lehighton 

Lock  Haven 

Reynoldsville 

Richland  Center  . 

Shamokin 

Topton 

Bradford 

Butler 

Meadville , 

Pennsburg 

Renovo 

Weissport 

White  Haven  ... 


1829. 
1889. 
1898. 


MARYLAND. 


Baltimore  . . . 
Hagerstown  . 
Ilchester 


MASSACHUSETTS. 

1832 Northampton 

1834 Boston 

1834-38. . .    Florence 

1835 Dedham 

1840 Canton 

1^ Skinnerville 

1874 Holyoke 

1878 Pittsfield 

1880 Springfield 

1882 Athol 

1884 Worcester 

1886 Newton  Upper  Falls., 

1890 Sandwich 


1810.. 
1814. , 
1835. 
1838. 
1838. 
1814. 
1849. 


1866.. 
1872.. 
1873.. 

1874. . 
1874., 
1878. , 
1879. 
1882. 
1882. 
1891. 
1892. 
1898. 


CONNECTICUT. 

Mansfield 

Gurleyville 

Hartford 

South  Manchester... 

Windsor  Locks 

South  Coventry 

Watertown , 

RockviUe 

Willimantic 

Middletown 

West  Winsted 

Norfolk 

Warehouse  Point- . . 

Putnam 

New  London 

Bridgeport 

Preston 

Norwich 

Stonington 

Mystic 

Shelton 


NEW   JERSEY. 


1840 

■1842.... 
1865...- 
1868  ... 
1868. . . - 
1870---. 
1874-.. . 
1875..-. 
1880...- 


Paterson 

Newark 

Trenton 

Hoboken 

Homestead 

West  Hoboken  . 
Wortendyke  — 

Union 

Boonton 


Tram,  organzine,  and  broad  silks. 

Silk  ribbons. 

Broad  silks. 

Broad  silks. 

Ribbons  and  narrow  fabrics. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram  anil  organzine. 

liress  silkH, 

Hrou'i  .-.ilks. 

BrtK'ades. 

Dress  and  tie  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Broad  silks. 

Broad  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Sewing  silk. 

Ribbons. 

Broad  and  tie  silks. 

Tram,  organzine,  and  broad  silks. 

Plain  and  dress  silks. 

Umbrella  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Broad  silks. 

Dress  goods. 

Broad  and  tie  silks. 

Broad  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram,  organzine,  and  ribbons. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram,  organzine,  and  ribbons. 

Ribbons.  ^.   .  , 

Tram,  organzine,  handkerchiefs,  and 
mufflers. 

Organzine. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Dre.ss  and  umbrella  silks. 

Ribbons. 

Broad  silks. 

Broad  silks. 

Broad  silks. 
Pongees  and  surahs. 

Dress  and  tie  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Dress  silks. 

Broad  silks. 

Ribbons. 

Broad  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram  and  organzine. 


1880.. 
1881.. 
1886.. 
1887.. 
1888.. 
1888.. 
1888.. 
1889. . 
1889.. 
1890.. 

1891.. 
1891.. 
1893. . 
1894.. 
1895.. 
1895. , 
1896., 
1898. 
1899. 
1900. 


Place. 


NEW  JERSEY — Continued. 


Hackensack 

Dover  

Phillip.sburg 

Hackettstown  . . . 

Stirling 

Midland  Park... 
Port  Oram. 

Lakeview 

Pompton  Lakes. 
Guttenberg 


Class  of  goods. 


Lodi 

Washington . 

Summit 

Jersey  City  . . 

Belvidere 

Watsessing  . . 

Newton 

Passaic 

Plainfield  ... 
Hillsdale 


1864 Chicago. 

1899 ..    Alpine  .. 


1830.. 
1841.. 
1866. , 
1871., 
1872. 
1882. 
1885. 
1886. 
1887. 
1887. 


NEW  Y'ORK. 


1889.. 

1889.. 
1891- - 
1892- - 
1892- - 
1892. 
1892. . 
1892.. 


Ribbons. 
Ribbons. 
Pongees. 


Sewing  silk. 

Dress  trimmings. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk,  braids,  and  linings. 

Sewing  silk. 

Silk  and  mohair  braids. 

Sewing  silk. 

Silk  bindings  and  picot  ribbons. 

Spun-silk  yarns. 

^ilk  and  mohair  braids. 


Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Silk  and  tuscan  braid. 

General  silk  manufacture. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  .silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Machine  twist  and  sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Machine  twist. 

Sewing  silk. 

Dress  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Ribbons  and  hatbands. 

Silk  velvets. 

Silk  velvets. 

Silk  velvets  and  ribbons. 


1896.. 

1897.. 
1897., 
1899. 
1899., 
1899. 
1899. 


New  York 

Auburn  

Oneida 

Brooklyn 

College  Point 

Sloatsburg 

Hornellsville 

Fultonville 

Norwich 

Whitehall. 

Long  Island  City 

Matteawan 

Spring  Valley 

Clark  Mills 

Elmira 

Delhi 

West  New  Brighton  . 

ITnionvUle 

Fort  Plain 

Newburg 


Watertown  - . 
Port  Jervis  .. 

Yonkers 

Fort  Hunter. 

Glendale 

Haverstraw  . 
Oneonta 


Westbrook . 


1886. 
1893. 


MOX- 


-TEXT- 


General  silk  manufacture. 

Sewing  silk. 

Coach  luce. 

Silk  dress  goods. 

Broad  silks. 

Broad  .silks. 

Silk  handkerchiefs  and  dress  goods. 

Silk  dress  goods. 

Tram,  organzine,  and  broad  siiks. 


-15 


1887. 
1899. 


1887. 
1899. 


UTAH, 

Salt  Lake  City... 


Piqua  . 
Toledo 


MICHIGAN. 


Belding  . 
Detroit . . 


WISCONSIN. 


1888. 
1889. 
1900. 


1888. 
1899. 
1900. 


1889., 
1897. 
1899- 
1900. 


Janesville  . . 
Milwaukee  . 


Petersburg 

Fredericksburg . 
Norfolk 


Broad  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Broad  anil  dress  silks. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Broad  silks. 

Tie  and  dress  silks. 

Silk  linings  and  dress  silks. 

Umbrella  silks,  veils  and  veiling,  and 

black  taffetas. 
Dveing  and  finishing  silk  piece  goods 
Taffetas,  furriers'  satin,  and  brocades. 
Broad  silks. 
Dress  silks. 
Tram  and  organzine. 
Dress  silks  and  linings. 
Broad  silks. 
Silk  veilings. 
Dress  silks. 
Broad  silks. 


Dress  trimmings. 
Silk  curtains. 


Dress  trimmings. 

Sewing  silk. 

Sewing  silk. 

Silk  laces. 

Ribbons. 

Spun  silk. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Silk  gloves  and  mittens. 

Ribbons. 

Silk  plushes. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Tram,  organzine,  and  sewing  silk. 

Seal  plushes. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Broad  silks. 

Labels,  etc. 

Ribbons. 

Tram  and  organzine. 

Pongees,  surah,  taffetas,  linings,  anc 

broad  silks. 
Dress  silks. 
Tram  and  organzine. 
Ribbons. 

Novelties  and  linings. 
Ribbons. 
Dress  silks. 
Broad  silks. 


CALIFORNIA. 

San  Francisco Sewing  silk  and  fringe  silk. 


.5pool  silks. 

Handkerchiefs  and  dress  goods. 


Silk  hosiery. 
Knit  goods. 


Sewing  silk. 

Mittens,  gloves,  and  hosiery. 


Silk  underwear. 
Knit  goods. 


NORTH  CAROLINA. 


Wadesboro 

Fayetteville 

Roanoke  Rapids. 


RHODE  ISLAND. 

Pawtucket 

Newport 

Wyoming 

Bristol 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 


Spinning  and  dyeing. 
Tram  and  organzine. 
Broad  and  tie  silks. 


Tram  and  organzine. 
Dress  and  tie  silks. 
Wide  pongees. 


Silk-mixed  linings. 
Elastic  webbing. 
Lining  silks. 
Curtains  and  portieres 


1891- . 
1898. , 
1898. , 
1900. 


1899. 
1899. 


Contoocook . 
Newmarket. 

Lebanon 

Lisbon 


Dover 


Tram  and  organzine. 
Silk  and  cotton  mulls  and  pongees. 
Underwear.  . 

Cotton  and  silk  covered  vnie. 


Dress  silks. 


Wilmington  ::::::::::".:::;:|  Slack  and  colored  taaetas. 


226 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tahle   23.— silk  and  SILK  GOODS,  INCLUDING 


40 
41 
42 

43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
61 
62 
53 
54 

56 
56 
57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 


Number  ot  establishments 

Chariieter  of  organizfttitni: 

Individual  

Firm  and  limite<l  partnership. 

Incorporated  company 


Capital: 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements. 
Cash  and  sundries 


Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  otlieials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations- 
Number  

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc- 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men— 

N  umber 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 


Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  nnnihcr  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year  . 

Least  lumibcr  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

Average  number 

Wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over- 
Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years- 
Average  number 

Wages 


Average  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during 
each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

January ■ 

February ■ 

March 

April ■ 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women.  16  years  and  over — 

.laiuiary 

February 

March -• 

April .  -  - 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October '. 

Kovember 

December 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January 

February 

March 

April 

May 

June : 

July 

A  ugust 

September 

October 

November 

December 


United  States. 


Weavers: 

Broad  silk — 

.Men 

W'omen 

Children 

Ribbons- 
Men  

Women 

Children 

Velvets  and  plushes- 
Men  

VVomen 

Children 

Other- 
Men  

Women 

Children 


132 
154 
197 


$81,082,201 
S2,04n,093 
810,20.5,812 
820,  TSO, 449 
$48, 080, 847 

477 

•      2,667 
83,134,352 

304 
8769,771 

2,353 
$2,364,581 

2,078 
$2,240,582 

275 
$124, 029 


75, 110 

56,959 

65,416 

$20,982,194 

24,206 
$10,699,483 

34, 797 
$9,377,696 

6,413 
8905, 015 


24, 197 
24, 729 
25,024 
25,200 
24, 752 
23,855 
23, 792 
23, 829 
23,797 
23, 749 
23,801 
23, 747 

34,742 
35,340 
36, 221 
36, 038 
35,352 
34,402 
33, 822 
34,137 
34,045 
34, 309 
34,517 
34,639 

6,260 
6,267 
6,410 
6,  .564 
6,537 
6,  ,502 
6,417 
6,381 
6,386 
6,349 
6,429 
6.454 


8,917 

9.188 

2i!5 

3,726 

1,467 

21 

881 
510 
150 

1,837 

1,892 

261 


California. 


8808,847 
83,600 
$29, 726 
844, 161 

$231,360 


6 
$4, 998 


84,630 
1 


142 

82 

117 

$33,056 

24 
814,436 

91 

818, 119 


$800 


25 
26 
26 
23 
23 
22 
18 
22 
24 
26 
27 
27 


95 
91 
86 
86 
82 
64 
88 
91 
99 
106 
105 

2 
2 
2 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
1 
2 
2 
2 


Connecticut. 


14 

4 

20 


$12, 166, 775 

8282,294 

81,697,352 

82,061.799 

88,225,330 

23 

323 
$403. 423 

29 
$103, 090 

294 
8300, 333 

257 
$284,352 

37 

$16,981 


7,400 

5,883 

6,514 

$2,392,873 

2, 763 
$1,350,513 

3,  .585 
$1,013,498 

166 
$28,832 


2,677 
2,710 
2,708 
2, 785 
2,745 
2,618 
2, 711 
2,730 
2,858 
2,947 
2,967 
2,701 

3,501 
3,581 
3,659 
3,719 
3,658 
3,534 
3,542 
3, 516 
3,497 
3/689 
3,662 
3,666 

149 
155 
164 
169 

164 
164 
163 
164 
170 
170 
187 
177 


448 
441 


Illinois. 


21 
200 


568 
141 


412 

367 

32 


$259,540 
$1.5,000 

$2.5,000 

$95,959 

$123,  581 


33 
851,180 

5 

$13,000 

28 
$38,180 

24 
$35,200 

4 

$2, 980 


607 

315 

412 

$121,644 

81 
843, 475 

310 

873,  919 

21 
84,280 


319 
367 

363 
356 
293 
265 
238 
253 
288 
340 
335 
306 

21 
23 
23 
27 
25 
19 
15 
14 
19 
22 


SILK. 


227 


BRAIDS  AND  TRIMMINGS,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Mas^cbuselte. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York, 

North  Carolina. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

Virginia. 

All  other  states.' 

20 

180 

92 

3 

121 

6 

3 

11 

I 

6 

61 

32 

1 

19 

3 

1 

1 

2 

3 

63 

34 

47 

1 

\ 

3 

11 

.66 

26 

2  " 

55 

3" 

1 

9 

4 

J5. 649, 758 

829,285,792 

89,800,207 

$130,376 

$20,  S94, 023 

$680,262 

8594,  ;i59 

81,312.272 

S 

8216,341 

8733,  367 

8202,138 

86,200 

5491,598 

$24,9.55 

$12, 60(1 

$.57,000 

6 

87&6.454 

82,966.084 

8.58h,  224 

862,000 

$3, 688,  .545 

$96,224 

8174,  440 

8233,763 

7 

$707.34,') 

8?,  297. 8.56 

$3,061,252 

$40,525 

86.  696, 1.58 

$165, 032 

$210,200 

$370, 162 

8 

83,969,618 

$18  iifS.ib'j 

$5, 950,  .193 

$31,651 

810.017,722 

8394,041 

$197,119 

$651,347 

9 

11 

197 

91 

1 

131 

3 

2 

8 

10 

156 

959 

363 

U 

745 

8 

12 

41 

11 

8227,  276 

81,144  512 

8514,439 

83,455 

$718, 776 

812,320 

$12,678 

841,295 

12 

20 

98 

41 

6 

88 

3 

1 

13 

13 

S.il.SSO 

8269,368 

8163,891 

8875 

$144,462 

,                89,200 

81,000 

$13,036 

14 

136 

861 

322 

5 

657 

5 

11 

28 

15 

8175,426   . 

8675.144 

8350,548 

82,580 

$574,314 

83,120 

811,678 

828,260 

16 

115 

787 

298 

5 

549 

4 

10 

24 

17 

8166,772 

8840.337 

8338,  784 

82,580 

$528,243 

$2,320 

$11,314 

826, 120 

18 

21 
$8,654 

74 
834,807 

24 
$11,764 

108 
846,071 

1 
$800 

1 
$364 

4 
$2,140 

19 

20 

3,465 

27, 162 

9.330 



265 

24, 424 

663 

518 

1,334 

21 

2,953 

20,784 

fi.563 

255 

18,496 

365 

429 

834 

22 

3,110 

24.157 

7,861 

209 

21,028 

455 

473 

1,080 

23 

81,110  324 

89,232,532 

$2,861,818 

825,420 

$4,629,626 

$166, 675 

$185,056 

8303, 171 

24 

1,102 

11,279 

3,149 

35 

,5,214 

124 

144 

291 

25 

$506,282 

85.296,102 

$I,,=)09,660 

88, 827 

$1,718,587 

$82,240 

861,294 

$108,037 

2« 

1,837 

11,679 

4.299 

119 

11,565 

326 

228 

7.58 

27 

8662  989 

83,731,827 

81,293,875 

813,331 

$2,363,123 

883,664 

$31,885 

8191,466 

28 

171 

1,199 

413 

55 

4,249 

5 

101 

31 

29 

841,0.i3 

8204,603 

1 

858,283 

83,262 

$547,916 

$771 

$11,877 

$3,668 

30 

1,067 

11,247 

3,266 

38 

5,262 

109 

137 

287 

31 

1,094 

11  640 

3,361 

38 

5,326 

118 

147 

287 

32 

1  099 

11,676 

3,429 

38 

5,402 

114 

150 

294 

33 

1,100 

11,699 

3,366 

48 

5,534 

108 

149 

302 

34 

1,089 

11,605 

3,166 

46 

5,455 

123 

145 

268 

35 

1,057 

11.324 

2,865 

38 

5,322 

124 

148 

271 

36 

1,078 

11  395 

2,889 

20 

5,077 

128 

147 

264 

37 

1,095 

11 ;  237 

3,032 

20 

5,064 

125 

143 

280 

.38 

1,116 

10,984 

3,095 

20 

5,043 

131 

145 

303 

39 

1,144 

10,786 

3,136 

38 

5,005 

138 

132 

309 

40 

1,153 

10,791 

3,101 

38 

5,054 

137 

145 

302 

41 

1.131 

11.070 

3,077 

38 

5,027 

138 

134 

323 

42 

1,776 

11,696 

4, 492 

138 

11,617 

224 

221 

660 

43 

1,855 

11,861 

4.501 

138 

11,788 

231 

221 

702 

44 

1,951 

12.055 

4,698 

138 

12,019 

266 

222 

769 

45 

1,934 

12,012 

4,515 

158 

11,989 

276 

221 

772 

46 

1,870 

11,946 

4,149 

158 

11,873 

330 

212 

777 

47 

1.732 

11,701 

3,920 

138 

11,747 

360 

249 

681 

48 

1.697 

11,683 

3,944 

80 

11,264 

354 

241 

745 

49 

1,732 

11,564 

4,132 

50 

11,455 

346 

2,39 

763 

50 

1 ,  835 

11,378 

4,266 

50 

11,248 

369 

240 

783 

51 

1,921 

11,261 

4,376 

138 

11,145 

384 

229 

827 

5? 

1,841 

11,427 

4,324 

13S 

11,270 

391 

222 

801 

63 

1,901 

11,561 

4,266 

138 

11,364 

400 

218 

814 

54 

113 

1,164 

408 

64 

4,184 

3 

101 

31 

65 

157 

1,157 

406 

64 

4,lb3 

3 

104 

43 

.56 

158 

1,175 

428 

64 

4,248 

3 

108 

47 

57 

170 

1,230 

445 

69 

4.316 

4 

103 

40 

58 

168 

1,221 

430 

59 

4,326 

4 

112 

27 

59 

166 

1,203 

408 

64 

4,363 

4 

93 

28 

60 

170 

1,212 

411 

54 

4,256 

10 

102 

23 

61 

167 

1,219 

398 

54 

4,238 

9 

95 

22 

62 

176 

1,216 

397 

64 

4,219 

8 

101 

25 

63 

193 

1,190 

390 

54 

4,202 

3 

96 

27 

64 

195 

1,201 

420 

54 

4,212 

3 

103 

29 

65 

190 

1,202 

421 

54 

4,256 

3 

100 

28 

66 

301 

6,491 

899 

1,645 

74 

69 

67 

208 

3,548 

824 

38" 

3,777 

156 

ii" 

184 

68 

38 

1,762 

502 

3 

48 
5 

2 

1,014 

203 

10 

109 
20 

191 

885 
517 

1 

149 
344 
150 

4 

43 

5 

69 

70 

40" 

71 

72 

10 

73 

74 

76 

10 
34 
8 

691 
763 
75 

351 
4,50 
86 

341 

278 

69 

■JO 

12 

i" 

76 

77 

78 

'Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Detaware.  2:  Maine,  1;  Maryland.  2;  Michigan.  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah. 


228 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  23.— SILK  AND  SILK  GOODS,  INCLUDING 


88 
89 
90 
91 
92 
93 
94 
95 

96 

97 

98 

99 

100 

101 

102 

103 

104 

105 

106 
107 
108 
109 

no 

111 
112 
113 
114 


115 
116 


117 
118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 


128 
129 
130 
131 

132 
133 
134 
135 

136 
137 
138 
139 

140 
141 
142 
143 
144 
145 
146 
147 

148 
149 
150 
151 
152 

153 
154 
155 
156 
157 
158 
169 
160 


Spinners,  etc.: 

Men 

Women 

Children 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Ken t  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Kent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto 

included. 
Contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Silk- 
Raw,  pounds 

Cost 

Spun . pounds 

Cost , 

Artificial,  pounds 

Cost 

Waste,  pounds 

Cost 

Ottier  textile  yarns — 

Cotton,  pounds , 

Cost 

Mercerized  cotton,  pounds 

Cost 

Wool,  pounds 

Cost 

Mohair,  pounds 

Cost 

Other,  pounds 

Cost 

Silk  purchased  in  partially  manufactured  form — 

Organzine  and  tram,  pounds 

Cost 

Fringe  and  floss,  pounds 

Cost 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  suppl ies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Raw  silk  thrown  under  contract: 

Organzine,  pounds 

Tram,  pounds 

Products: 

Total  value 

Organzine  and  tram  made  for  sale,  pounds , 

Value 

Spun  silk  yarn  made  for  sale,  pounds 

Value 

Machine  twist,  pounds 

Value 

Sewing,  embroidery,  and  wash  silks,  pounds 

Value 

Fringe  and  iioss  silks,  pounds 

Value 

Broad  silk  goods — 

Plain  and  fancies- 
All  silk,  yards 

Value 

Silk  mixed,  yards 

Value 

Jacquard — 

All  silk,  yards 

Value 

Silk  mixed,  yards  : 

Value  . .' 

Piece-dyed — 

All  sil k,  yards 

Value 

Silk  mixed,  yards 

Value  . .". 

Other  broad  goods — 

Velvets,  yards 

Value 

Plushes,  yards 

Value 

Tapestries,  yards 

Value 

Upholstery,  yards 

Value 

Ribbons  and  laces — 

Ribbons,  value 

Laces,  nets,  veils,  veiling,  etc.,  value 

Embroideries,  value _ 

Fringes  and  gimps,  value 

Braids  and  bindings,  value '. . 

Trimmings — 

Tailors' ,  value 

Ladies' ,  value 

Cloak, value 

M illiners" ,  val ue 

Military,  value 

Other  trimmings  products,  value 

Other  products,  value 

Received  for  contract  work ; 


United  States. 


7,332 
19, 513 

4,955 


810,264,208 

8591,807 

923».  116 

82,863.986 

86,670,299 


862,406,665 

9, 760, 770 

840, 721, 877 

1, 550, 291 

83,406,059 

6,056 

810,380 

1,667,195 

8734, 5-39 

6,444,208 
81,830,550 

219, 861 
8165, 683 

239, 461 
8167, 770 

104.810 
8107,365 

108,388 
8134, 986 

2.338,464 

$10, 539, 632 

67, 984 

$•274, 408 

8548, 493 

$135,  509 

8994.769 

82. 406. 1'23 

8228, 522 


2, 331, 4.56 
1,967, '203 


8107,256,258 

2,468,387 

$11,167,191 

437,459 

81,026,227 

987, 917 

85, 997, 974 

477, 6.58 

83, -276, 826 

261,643 

8971, 390 


53,573,488 

833, 862,  111 

8, 963, 315 

$5, 450, 710 

7,532,229 
So, 379, 001 

1,677,466 
81,260,321 

7,331,501 
83, 342, 167 

8,6.68,884 
82, 868,  .506 

5,122,249 

82, 479, 903 

3, 848, 684 

82, 480, 068 

321,978 

$180,503 

1,011,141 

$829, 332 

$18,467,179 

$S03, 104 

857, 625 

8444,  787 

81,5'22,.565 

$26, 6'24 

8912,361 

8241,560 

$615,012 

854,666 

$183, 853 

81,027.472 

$2, 337, 220 


California. 


11 
60 


»),113 

82,220 

8680 

81,213 


$146,219 

30,426 

8113,886 

725 

82,380 


8,500 

82,675 

650 

8655 

150 

8150 

380 

8.515 


Connecticut. 


$7,320 
250 
81,100 
81,382 
8600 
88.684 
83,371 
83,472 


$255,902 

2,000 

$8,000 


22, 742 

8163,  742 

.5,200 

$17,400 


800 
8800 


800 
$800 


81,000 
$4,000 
86,500 


86,000 
$3,200 
Sfi.OOO 
83,100 
86,000 
8160 
8200 


1,268 
1,990 

227 


8637,450 
830,202 
836,506 

8353,489 

8217.2.63 


87, 198, 008 

1,159,961 

84, 537, 720 

.502,  .558 

$998,566 


749, 036 
$404,183 

1, 187, 863 

$388,836 

1,642 

81,416 

401 

8329 

1,236 

81,. 543 

2.024 

$4,  .596 

31,041 

8164,8.81 

743 

$4,161 

$90. 9:!7 

85,980 

$1.55. 982 

$4-27.  .M4 

$21,334 


184,270 
69,588 


$12, 378, 981 

92,000 

$502, 620 

166, 265 

$398,  671 

545, 423 

$3, 354,  546 

145,032 

$977,213 

95,806 

$217. 043 


1,4&6.439 

$1,075,166 

416, 648 

$269. 937 

7.  .563 
83.905 
93, 264 
863, 117 

3,371,127 

$1,534,724 

147,. 833 

$98. 720 

4,261,208 

$2,087,639 

1,011.457 

8687. 679 

69. 978 

884.503 


Illinois. 


$655,807 


$38,685 


842,410 

87,9.50 

81.974 

$19,720 

812.  766 


8187,514 


4.225 

$12, 724 

10 

$55 


255,247 
$36,9.50 

7.178 

$3,113 

65.190 

$85,702 

6.992 
$10,024 

7. -2.50 
$10,000 

4.713 
$21,149 

8,905 

$29. S93 

?2..5O0 

$530 

81.624 

$23.  '250 


$421,0 


$192. 744 

$136, 362 


846. 477 
$249. 002 

$6,000 
$43,461 
$31,000 
$35,000 
$6,346 
$3,802 


SILK. 


229 


BRAIDS  AND  TRIMMINGS,  BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


Massachusetts, 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

North  Carolina. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

Virginia. 

All  other  states." 

449 

1,186 

158 

8382, 745 
$13,837 

$29,583 
8179,306 

8160,019 

83,823,963 

720,486 

82  898.  .646 

40,136 

896,683 

170 

$420 

418, 365 

$177,480 

480,220 

$144,520 

4.708 

$3,733 

%,867 

869, 660 

17, 406 

$27,832 

1,971 

$12,991 

17,681 

$81,010 

676 

$3,287 

835, '205 

$3,467 

$78,435 

$179,  .■547 

811.448 

3,180 

6,722 

813 

$4, 896,  .595 

$241,838 

897, 665 

$1.120,4.58 

$3,436,634 

$21,631,118 

3,155,334 

813.514,601 

178,73.5 

$533,612 

501 

2,070 

206 

$1,601,527 

$182,323 

827,587 

8.512,228 

$879,389 

86,570,037 

914, 265 

83,814,768 

263.200 

$562,322 

5,360 

$6,790 

287,880 

$86,900 

1,666.545 
$359,716 

51,660 
$42,432 

45,627 
$36,  640 

29,697 
$28,776 

24. 167 
$14,364 

197, 781 

8839,657 

20, 606 

$88,813 

855,635 

840,651 

8168,119 

8412,922 

821,. 632 

117,981 
204,400 

812,706,246 

48,263 
$207, 600 

92,046 
$216.  603 

46,600 
$240,406 

18,628 
$113, 468 

34 
73 
64 

85,159 
82,000 

886 
$1,873 

$1,200 

$99,403 

20,200 

$90,282 

1,100 

83,080 

1,587 
6,481 
3,370 

$2,451,820 
$90,  M7 
$36,330 
$610,872 

$1,708,071 

819,8SH,869 

3,238,285 

$13, 534, 387 

477,543 

$979,606 

526 

$3,115 

186,  424 

862,476 

1,759,759 

8465, 812 

30,070 

823, 121 

8,717 

$5, 743 

47,600 

$36,615 

31,323 

$24,097 

871,235 

$3,701,840 

34,727 

$137. 338 

$168.  409 

$16,979 

8277,  698 

$364,891 

$94,812 

1,332,758 
926.915 

831. 072, 926 

1,723,791 

88,011,165 

75, 148 

8140, 653 

43,476 

$285,288 

74,475 

8461,800 

128,262 

$542,130 

17,887,478 

$10,002,648 

669,377 

8310, 200 

903.001 

$50.5.714 

56,421 

823,831 

1,775,256 

8586, 443 

5, 562, 097 

81,563.363 

740,449 

$324,672 

1,7.52,  .590 

$1,114.6.58 

2.50. 000 

S,s-.ooo 

1.56. 261 
$210,377 

$4,368,399 
$2,800 

20 

151 

2 

$103,454 
$13,925 
$3,013 
$7,916 

878,600 

$818,  .561 

102,691 

$490. 7.50 

.51,516 

8136,404 

131 
216 
101 

816,300 

151 
564 

24 

$123,636 

$966 

$3,  .624 

$44,214 

$74,932 

81,326,448 

'2.54,924 

81,073,994 

30,553 

880,882 

79 
80 
81 

82 

81 

81,168 
812,697 

$1,435 

$720,.5'2.5 

164,200 
$053, 046 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88 
89 
90 

91 

<Y> 

93 

2.5,000    ■ 
83,000 

409,936 
8122,  .HOO 
2. 000 
31 .  200 
2,667 
$2,000 

600 
8500 

28,652 
$4,760 

94 

95 

767, 486 
$304,481 
122, 053 
$90,013 
16,940 
$15,042 

96 

97 

98 

99 

3,002 
82,504 

1,500 

83,000 

41,173 

868,768 

310 
$1,539 

100 

101 

102 

103 

480 
8170 

1,209,012 

$5, 702,  .506 

478 

81,816 

8179, 280 

863, 932 

$257,  .824 

$909, 191 

858,750 

,585.722 
661,900 

$39. 966, 662 

315, 646 

$1,500,060 

104 

m5 

5,711 
$29,730 
1,600 
$8,000 
$4, 676 
81,. 500 
$1,787 
$14,137 
$2,577 

16,599 

IflS 

107 

108 

109 

$2,382 

$6,417 

81,260 
$37,  .311 
817,000 

86,492 

67,220 
27,710 

8981,680 
277,032 
8892, 129 

812,670 
$1,610 
$16,639 
$53, 487 
$6,196 

26,906 
5,690 

82,068,554 

110 
111 

$766 

8983 

81,910 

112 
113 
114 

115 

8,000 

$5,967,532 

1,8.68 

$7,766 

104,000 

$270,400 

269,241 

81,413,004 

170. 423 

$1,246,445 

20. 964 

$147,773 

665, 153 

8766,0.54 

2,020,101 

81,437,799 

73,000 

8135,354 

7,800 

838,062 

116 

$1,311,333 

117 
118 

119 

190 

1?1 

60,536 
$540,989 

64,000 
$440,600 

1W 

^n 

124 

1?5 

16,611 
$64,444 

28,268,970 

$18,871,325 

2,331,493 

81,680,091 

6,451,666 
$4,722,632 

1,466,356 
81,164,366 

1,694,675 

$906,942 

381,000 

8154,500 

■     111,077 

862,935 

555,842 

$315,540 

2,000 

$9,000 

231,037 

$396, 850 

88,341,721 
8423,257 

1?fi 

127 

3,859,029 

$2,  .616, 445 

1,017,130 

$558, 361 

108, 410 

$115,250 

61,426 

$19,008 

22,000 

$84,661 

2,447,670 

81,039,489 

9,515 

84,  7.57 

.528,  795 

$362, 191 

10.5,000 
831,000 

1,351,619 

$588,673 

112,129 

$75, 163 

60,800 
830,800 

1?8 

1M 

2,367,437 
$1,119,159 

130 

131 

13? 

133 

134 

US 

59,760 
$40,904 

408,684 
8189, 593 

136 

li17 

20,384 
812,434 

188 

139 

140 

141 

14'' 

143 

144 

145 

623,843 
8222,105 

$4,883,011 

8377, 047 

823,092 

$195, 528 

$388,391 

146 

147 

892,000 

$126,241 

148 

149 

$33,533 

828,087 

8888,339 

$8,124 

$68,385 

$839 

1.50 

$170,695 
8119,573 

1.51 

$162,595 

8169,480 

1.6? 

812,500 
87,500 
$4,000 

1.53 

8389.510 
$21,000 

$231,000 
$30,000 
$95,784 

$133, 622 

$238,218 

$397,505 

$181,. 521 

$344,012 

$15, 000 

$72, 107 

$171,349 

$1,070,133 

1.54 

1.W 

1.56 

$220 

$6,000 

$21,0.53 

$9,278 

1.57 

8160 

8434,601 
$766,844 

158 

839,893 

826,399 

$8,400 
$14,294 

$25,760 

$26,846 

1.59 

1                      $48,647 

160 

1  Includes  establishments  distributea  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2;  Michigan,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah,  2. 


230 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  23.— SILK  AND  SILK  GOODS,  INCLUDING 


162 
163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 
169 
170 


171 

172 
173 
174 
175 

176 
177 

178 

179 
180 

181 
1S2 


183 
184 
185 
186 
187 
188 
189 
190 
191 

192 
193 
194 
195 
196 
197 
198 
199 
200 
201 

202 
203 
204 

205 
206 
207 
208 
209 
210 
211 
212 


213 
214 

215 
216 

217 
218 

219 
220 

221 
222 
223 
224 

225 
226 
227 

228 

229 
230 
231 


Machinery: 

Spindles,  total  number 

Orgflnzine — 

First  time  over,  number 

Second  time  over,  number 

Tram,  number 

Cleaning  or  polishing,  number 

Doubling,  number 

Quilling,  number 

Reeling,  number 

Spinning  and  twisting,  number 

Winding,  number 

Looms — 
Power- 
Total  number 

Plain— 

36  inches  or  over  reed  space,  number. 

Under  36  inches  reed  space,  number. . 

German  (wurps  on  lop)  ribbons. number. 

High-speed  ribbons,  number 

Jacquards — 

Ribbons,  number 

Broad  .silks,  number 

Hand- 
Total  number 

Plain— 

36  inches  or  over  reed  space,  number 
I'nder  36  inches  reed  space,  number  . 
Jacquards — 

Ribbons,  number 

Broad  silks,  number 

Other  machines — 
Power — 

Knitting — 

Warp,  number 

Knitting  tir crochet,  number 

Roundhead,  number 

Swiss-ribbed,  number 

Milanese  or  traverse,  number 

Beamers,  number 

Braiders,  number 

Chenille,  number 

Curtain,  number 

Embroidery — 

Shiflie  or  p< twer,  number 

Haiid-stiti 'tied,  number 

Gimp  mills.  luunber 

Levers  or  lace,  number 

Sewing,  number 

Slide  cord,  number 

Spooling  tables,  number 

Twist,  nvimber 

Warping,  number 

Other  power  machines,  number 

Hand— 

Beamers,  number 

Braiders,  number 

Chenille,  number 

Embroidery— 

Hand-.stitched,  number 

Levers  or  lace,  number 

Sewing,  number 

Slide  cord,  number 

Spooling  tables,  number 

Twist,  number 

Warping,  number 

Other  hand  machines,  number 

Dyeing,  finishing,  and  printing: 
Skein  dveing — 

Silk- 
Colors,  pounds '. 

Black,  pounds 

Spun — 

Colors,  pounds 

Black,  p(  lunds 

Cotton — 

Colors,  pounds 

Black,  pounds 

Wool- 
Colors,  pounds 

Black,  pounds 

Piece  dyeing — 

All  silk,  yards .' 

Silk  andspun,  yards 

Silk  and  cotton,  yards 

Silk  and  wool, yards 

Finishing — 

.\11  silk,  pieces 

Silk  and  cotton,  pieces 

Silk  and  wool ,  pieces 

Printing- 
Printed  in  warps,  yards 

Printed  in  pieces — 

All  silk,  yards 

Silk  and  spun,  yards 

Silk  and  cotton,  yards 


United  States. 


1,987,404 

582, 180 
345, 145 

117,979 
6,  .526 

185, 075 
87,  742 
52, 1.S8 

168, 189 

442,410 


44,257 

13,077 

16, 161 

4,471 

2.105 

856 
7,587 


Caliioniia. 


32 

127 


5 


108 

127 

21 

14 

5 

343 

15,305 

130 

1 

104 

29 
122 

64 
550 
152 
743 

64 
3,589 

99 


3,380 


88 

44 

456 

50 

84 

1,650 

1,008 


Connecticut. 


160,743 

15,686 
8,720 
5,256 
2,102 

14,018 
7,361 
4,340 

66,7.53 

36,477 


2, 975 

1,660 
777 
95 
194 

5 

244 


Illinois. 


27 


1 

7 

54 

1,005 

1 

21 
3 

3,809 
9 

1 

7 

SILK. 


231 


BRAIDS  AND  TRIMMINGS,  BY  STATES:  190O— Continued. 


Massachusetts. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

North  Carolina. 

4>ennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

Virginia. 

All  other  states.  I 

107, 312 

20,088 

9,632 

1,586 

467 

11,040 
1,910 
3,.')24 

36,  782 

22,283 

1,017 

451 
422 
144 

536,065 

153, 312 
92,190 
30,014 
1,023 
60,587 
35,961 
13,367 
6,074 
153,537 

20,557 

4,573 

7,282 

1,601 

882 

433 

5,786 

15 

7 
8 

136,703 

25,208 
14,352 
8,404 
1,389 
12,977 
9.23'2 
4,I0'2 
15,.5'22 
45,517 

.5, 175 

1,510 

1,175 

1,594 

425 

223 

248 

93 

4 
81 

6 
2 

54 

39 

9 

18,790 

6,000 
2,000 
2,680 

942,  .5-15 

340, 298 
205,781 
ft),  ,591 
799 
85,535 
30,4.58 
24. 9.56 
27,181 
161,946 

12,920 

3,709 

6,166 

986 

604 

195 
1,260 

29 

18 

8 

3 

4,212 

41.798 

16,696 
8,400 
3,276 

85,856 

5,892 
4,070 
1,084 

600 
2,474 

710 

1,143 

10,781 

9,102 

779 

437 
244 

51 

161 

162 
163 

164 
16.5 
166 
167 

102 
660 
60 
80 
1,890 
1,.520 

633 

465 

68 

2,900 

2,000 

158 

4,498 

404 
1,556 
6,968 

147 

147 

168 
169 
170 

171 

172 
173 

174 
175 

176 
177 

178 

179 

4,052 

125 
125 

47 
6 
3 

23 

23 

181 
182 

183 

184 

3 

46 
63 
12 

17 

185 
186 

14 



5 

.52 

3,889 

60 

■■■•■-■-... 

187 
188 

6 

2,876 

4 

97 

744 

1 

1 

128 

1,381 

62 

1 

5 
180 

1,400 

189 
190 

■ 

191 

192 
193 

20 
5 
4 

84 
24 
38 
50 

295 
31 
49 
26 

410 
41 

1 
17 
18 

44 

14 

112 

28 

9 

81 

108 

5 

97 

ios 

19 

132 

7 

1,102 

17 

2 

4 

196 

51 

7 

1,700 

40 

1 
2 

4 

82 
12 
37 

8 

37 

9 

200 

1 

202 
203 
204 

O05 

■J 

1 
17 

206 
207 
208 

35 

15 

1 

16 

2 

304 

1 

838,582 
257,844 

2, 139 
90 

25,640 
83,050 

28 

5 

263 

12 

98,910 
54.431 

26,783 
8,000 

261,322 
25,475 

5,000 
4,000 

19 

1 

206 

209 
210 
211 

6 
33 

263, 700 
3.50,083 

71,151 
22,  498 

122, 109 
224,642 

45,658 
50,949 

3 

212 

•" 

29,320 
68,023 

110,100 
78,515 

•100,354 
196,  723 

51,395 
128,433 

1,950 
660 

2,000 
1,000 

2,000 
1,000 

213 

210,000 

9,912 
3,304 

216 

217 

''lO 

220 

1,046,938 

110,000 

471,893 

350 

268,128 

29,767 

54 

7,500 

69,086 

'J2"'> 

538,310 

692,289 

224 

67,240 
15,052 

57, 161 

65,046 

62 

130 
10,  721 

7,899 

225 

228 

230 
2.31 

1 1 

i 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2;  Michigan,  2;  New  Hampshire.  2;  I'tah,  2. 


232 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  33.— vSILK  AND  SILK  GOODS,  INCLUDING 


232 
233 
231 


235 
236 


237 
238 
239 
240 
241 
242 
243 
244 
245 

246 
247 
248 


249 
250 
251 
252 
253 
254 
255 
256 
267 
258 


Comparison  of  products:  ^      ,     ..  ^i. 

Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years. 

Value  for  census  year 

Value  for  preceding  business  year 


Power: 

Number  of  establishments  reporting 

Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines — 

Steam,  number 

Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline,  number 

Horsepower 

Water  wheels,  number 

Horsepower 

Electric  motors,  number 

Horsepower 

Other  power,  horsepower 

Rented — 

Electric,  horsepower 

Other  kind, horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments,  horsepower. 


United  States. 


Establishments  classified'  by  number  of  persons  employed,  not  including  pro- 
prietors and  firm  members: 

Total  number  of  establishments 

No  employees 

Under  5 

5  to  20 

21  to  50 

51  to  100 

101  to  250 

251  to  500 

501  to  1.000 

Over  1,000 


378 

J101,474,146 

$90,107,761 

475 
61,395 


421 

46,969 

19 

323 

117 

6,666 

135 

3,998 


609 

1,832 

608 


483 
2 
20 
66 
83 
95 

123 

60 

28 

6 


California. 


5 
$255, 902 
$237,451 


2 
82 


Connecticut. 


35 

$12,209,415 

$9,640,107 


38 
5,490 


66 
4,364 


18 

813 

6 

75 


Illinois. 


85 

65 

7 


3 

8419,088 
$364,896 


4 
122 


SILK. 


233 


BRAIDS  AND  TRIMMINGS,  BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


Massachusetts. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

North  Carolina. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

Virginia. 

All  other  statcs.> 

17 
85,874,830 
84,605,428 

19 
4,536 

24 
2,206 

142 
838,364,902 
836,205,469 

180 
17,122 

111 

12,471 

4 

46 

38 

1,245 

35 

1,158 

80 
812,264,525 
811,543,103 

87 
5,246 

46 

3,118 

7 

56 

15 

852 

17 

13.5 

1 
826, 399 
816,723 

3 
455 

3 

4.55 

81 
828,129,885 
824,872,339 

121 
26,227 

152 

21,670 

6 

133 

5 

620 

54 

2,017 

8 

180 

,599 

.   110 

121 

5 

81,226,588 
8532,216 

6 
250 

3 
190 

2 

8940, 776 
88.55,306 

3 
1,683 

16 
580 

7 
81,761,836 
81,234,693 

9 
1,175 

7 
723 

232 
233 
234 

236 
236 

237 
238 

240 

28 

2,039 

5 

205 

1 
30 

5 
695 

18 
408 

372 

241 

O,)!) 

245 

244 

1,958 

210 

180 

1 

7 

27 

35 

36 

39 

19 

14 

2 

73 

1,012 

80 

92 

20 
60 
100 

11 

246 

86 

1 

20 

30 

'>M 

248 

3 

6 

3 

249 
250 

3 

2 
5 
2 
3 
2 
3 

6 
17 
15 
20 
24 
10 

2 

9 

16 

26 

34 

22 

9 

3 

1 
1 
1 
3 
3 
2 

251 

i 

2 
2 

1 

05V 

1 

•>=;'( 

?54 

2 

i 

1 

''5'> 

1 

256 

?57 

258 

>  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Delaware,  2;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2;  Michigan,  2;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Utah,  2. 


FLAX.   HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS. 


(235) 


FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE   PRODUCTS. 


By  Edward   Stan  wood,  Expert  Special  Agent. 


The  industries  wiiieh  make  use  of  the  three  classes 
of  vegetable  fibers,  Hax,  hemp,  and  jute,  are  closely 
allied,  in  that  most  of  them  employ  more  than  one 
of  these  materials.  For  example,  there  is  a  large 
consumption  of  hemp  })oth  by  jute  manufacturers 
and  b}'  those  classed  as  makers  of  linen  goods;  and 
there  is  a  consumption  of  all  three  fibers  by  cord- 
age and  twine  establishments.  If  it  were  possible, 
it  would  te  more  scientific  to  cla-ssif}'  the  several 
industries  by  the  character  of  the '  goods  produced, 
but  the  variety  and  diversity  of  products  are  so 
great  that  it  is  impossible  to  do  so.  The  plan  here 
adopted  is  to  group  all  the  industries  reported  at  the 
Eleventh  Census  under  the  separate  heads  of  cordage 
and  twine,  jute  and  jute  goods,  linen  goods,  and  linen 
thread,  in  one  general  survey,  and  to  bring  the  facts 
relating  to  each  Ijranch  into  view  by  separate  treat- 
ment. 

Table  1  is  a  comparative  summary  of  the  statistics  of 
the  industrv  as  a  whole  in  1890  and  19u0. 


Table  1.— FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS;  COMPAR- 
ATIVE SUMMARY,  1890  AND  1900. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  ofBcials,  clerks,  etc.,  number  . 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


liMM) 


141 

841,991,762 

641 

S957, 190 

20, 903 

S6, 331. 741 

9,996 

$3,824,555 

8,648 

$2, 174, 152 

2,259 

$333,034 

S2,67.S,286 

$32, 197, 8*) 

$4t, 601,607 


1890 


162 
827,731.619 

'458 

'8609, 170 

15, 519 

84,872,389 

7,367 

82, 952. 270 

6.923 

81, 733, 289 

1.229 

8186.830 

$1,431,932 

$26, 148, 344 

837, 313, 021 


'Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,   with  their  salaries;  number 
only  reported  in  19U0,  butnot  included  in  this  table.     (See  Table  14.) 

The  only  inference  that  may  fairly  be  drawn  from  Table 
1  is  that,  upon  the  whole,  there  has  been  an  increase  in 
these  industries.  It  would  be  a  statistical  absurdity 
to  place  reliance  upon  the  percentages  of  increase  of 
masses,  which  include  things  widely  difl'erent  in  their 
nature,  and  sums  made  up  of  great  numbers  and  small. 

Table  2  is  a  summary  of  the  industry  by  states  for  1900. 


Table  2.— FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS;  SUMMARY  BY  STATES:  1900. 


United 

States. 


Alabama. 


Connecticut, 


Kentucky. 


Massachu- 
setts. 


New  Jersey. 


Number  of  establishments  .  * 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Misrfllancnis  expenses 

Co.st  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 

Number  of  establishments , 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salaries  

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used , 

Value  of  products 


141 

$U,  991, 762 

641 

8957, 190 

20,903 

$6,331,741 

$2, 678, 286 

$32, 197, 885 

$47,601,607 


4 

$298,448 

10 

$10, 980 

282 

$47,643 

814,654 

$166, 145 

$253, 560 


$297,962 

5 

$3,  .500 

265 

$69,544 

86.443 

$196, 332 

$312,  446 


6 

$159,295 

23 

$26,024 

492 

8149, 9.37 

$39,  *17 

8341,515 

$602, 701 


28 

810.223,490 

136 

$203, 943 

4.693 

81,562,862 

8601,512 

$7,539,433 

$11, 388, 933 


$3,413,163 

57 

$80,  .551 

2. 127 

$624. 988 

$223, 118 

$1, 760, 426 

$2,955,844 


New  York. 


22 

$10, 311, 768 

148 

$306, 331 

5,450 

$1,713,614 

$782, 719 

$7, 516, 240 

$11,674,669 


Ohio. 


9 

$2, 147, 677 

47 

$54,205 

1,0.52 

$317,909 

896, 471 

$2,325,907 

$2,957,674 


Pennsylva- 
nia. 


21 

$6,162,509 

90 

$103,  78.S 

2,6S3 

8761,582 

8117,126 

$5,448,323 

$7, 2.56, 548 


Rhode  Is- 
land. 


5 

$95,947 

4 

$2, 670 

,S1 

$22, 175 

$8, 0.52 

$63. 9.54 

$108,715 


Wisconsin. 


5 

$213,565 

11 

88,SH0 

128 

835,085 

87,  .574 

$109,016 

$185, 166 


All  other 
states.' 


27 

$8,367,938 

110 

$156,358 

3,647 

$1,026,402 

8750, 740 

$6,730,594 

$9,905,351 


'  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments,  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed.  These  establishments  are 
distributed  as  follows:  Arkansas.  1;  California.  2;  Delaware.  1;  Georgia,  1;  Illinois,  2;  Indiana,  1;  Iowa.  1;  Kansas,  1:  Maine,  2:  Maryland,  1;  Michigan,  1;  Minne- 
sota, 1;  Mississippi,  1;  Missouri,  2;  New  Hampshire,  1;  North  Carolina,  2;  Oregon,  1;  South  Carolina,  1:  Tennessee,  2:  Texas,  2. 

(237) 


238 


MAXUFACTURKS. 


Tables  3  and  i  present,  in  accordance  with  trade  classi- 
fications, the  several  fiber  materials  entering  into  the 
inamifactnre  of  tlax.  hemp,  and  jute  goods,  both  the 
quantity  and  the  cost,  respectively;  also  the  quantity 
and  value  of  the  goods  produced  therefrom. 

Table    3.— FL.\X,    HEMP,    AXD   JUTE   PRODUCTS;    KIND, 
QUANTITY,  AND  COST  OF  M.\TERIALS  USED:  1900. 


Poands. 


Fibers: 
Hard- 
Hemp — 

Manila 

Sisal 

New  Zealand 

Soft- 
Hemp — 

Russian — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Italian — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

American — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Flax- 
European — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Canadian — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Domestic — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Jute 

Jute  butts 

Yarns: 

Flax  or  hemp — 
Domestic  tow — 

Wholly  or  partly  bleached  . 

Gray.." ; 

Domestic  line — 

Wholly  or  partly  bleached  . 

Gray." '. 

Imported  tow — 

Wholly  or  partly  bleached  . 

Gray.." 

Imported  line — 

Wholly  or  partly  bleached  . 

Gray." 

Linen,  unspecified 

Cotton 

Jute 

Silk 

Spun  silk 

Worsted 

Cotton: 

Riiw  (2fi.»40  bales) 

Waste 

All  other  materials 


123,241,820 

146,352,853 

6,344,371 


1, 175. 605 
118,090 
349,558 

7, 329, 346 
305, 917 
335,858 

11.497,068 
3,201,011 
1,276.262 


5,580,911 
3, 727, 163 
3.388,641 

1, 972, 820 
247,350 
131,736 

700,000 

744, 045 

487,980 

87, 443. 201 

118.806,625 


120,320 
48,500 

107,490 
157,778 

37,514 
196,941 

1,000 

108, 976 

102, 622 

4,973,080 

1,009,651 

4.774 

1,100 

682 

13,022,755 
798,182 


Cost. 


Total '. I    .>|.5, 449. 566         S32.197.885 


Table    4.— FLAX,   HEMP,    AND   JUTE   PRODUCTS;    KIND, 
QUANTITY,  AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1900— Cont'd. 


8,916,493 

8,827,131 

352,528 


73,166 
5,869 
25,063 

533.922 
20, 969 
31,780 

536,076 
112,134 
65,675 


668,446 
252, 759 
806,693 

155, 751 
18,908 
20,643 

25,7.50 

66, 665 

6.5,247 

2,431,429 

1, 795, 653 


14,060 
6,860 

45,550 
32.396 

9,681 
35,178 

180 

48, 747 

42, 005 

709, 889 

69,501 

24,414 

3.450 

308 

849,426 

37,692 

1,459,796 


Binder  twine: 

All  maiiila,  pounds 

Chiefly  manila.  pounds 

All  or  chiefly  sisal,  pounds 

Rope: 

Manila,  pounds 

Sisal,  pounds 

Jute,  pounds 

Cotton,  pounds 

Towels  and  toweling: 

All  linen,  square  yards 

Partly  linen,  square  yards 

other  woven  fabrics: 

All  linen,  square  yards 

Partly  linen,  .square  yards 

Jute  burlaps,  square  yards 

Jute  carpet-s  and  rugs,  square  yards . 

Gunny  bagging,  square  yards 

other  spun  or  woven  goods 

Cotton: 

Bagging,  square  yards 

Yarn,  pounds 

Twine,  pounds 

Batting,  pounds 

Waste,  pounds 

other  products  of  cotton 

All  other  products 


Quantity. 


15,261,174 
24,975,568 
125,372,687 

83,347,459 

46,865,604 

10,012,165 

1,615,824 

4,598,615 
2,051,247 

83,000 
135,000 


Value. 


2, 9.53, 6.58 
74, 090, 760 


248,204 
946,567 

8,691,707 
198,000 

1, 254, 619 


SI,  546, 428 
2,316,257 
10,322.896 

8,330,113 

3,682,670 

463,413 

247,250 

471,633 
281,258 

9.110 

34,000 

386,129 

357,568 

3,462,479 

1,051,689 

21,864 

98,928 

1,133,640 

7,125 

20,146 

"15, 613 

2,744.604 


CORDAGE    AND    TWIXE. 

Three  general  classes  of  establishments  are  included 
in  the  following  statistics  under  the  head  of  cordage 
and  twine.  The  first  and  smallest,  having  regard  to 
the  items  of  capital,  number  of  wage-earnei'S,  wages, 
and  value  of  products,  consists  of  tho.se  whose  chief 
business  is  the  manufacture  of  yarn — cotton,  for  the 
most  part,  but  also  linen  and  silk — into  the  finer  varie- 
ties of  twine  and  into  cotton  rope;  the  .second,  of  those 
which  produce  binder  twine  on  a  large  scale;  the  third, 
of  those  which  manufacture  hempen  rope.  Since  no 
u.seful  purpose  would  be  served  by  separating  the 
returns  of  these  several  classes  they  are  reported 
together;  but  the  important  facts  regarding  the  several 
industries,  so  far  as  they  ai"e  distinct,  are  easily  ascer- 
tained from  the  statistics  of  the  quantity  and  value 
of  the  fibers  consumed,  and  of  the  quantity  and  value  of 
the  several  products.  At  previous  censuses  no  special 
incjuiry  was  made  concerning  anj'  of  the  characteristic 
features  of  the  industries  grouped  under  this  head,  and 
no  facts  were  reported  other  than  those  which  appear 
in  the  following  comparative  summary: 


Table    4.— FLAX,     HEMP,    AND  JUTE    PRODUCTS;   KIND, 
QUANTITY,  AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1900. 


Total . 


Flax  or  hemp  vams: 
Tow— 

Dry  spun,  gray,  pounds 

Dry  spun,  bleached,  pounds 

Wet  spun,  gray,  pounds 

Wet  spun,  bleached,  pounds 

Line — 

Dry  spun,  gray,  pounds 

Dry  spun,  bleached,  pounds 

Wet  spun,  gray,  pounds 

Jute  yarns,  pounds 

Twines  for  sale: 

All  flax,  pounds 

.All  hemp,  pounds 

All  jute,  pounds 

Flax  or  hemp,  mixed  with  jute,  pounds  . 
Linen  thread,  pounds 


Quantity. 


,889,528 
18.371 

1.060,092 
49,2:56 

218,088 

23,138 

1,200 

,  271,869 

1,845,978 
1,065,024 
,  679, 127 
1, 924, 067 
,021,014 


Value. 


847, 601, 607 


248,351 
3,473 

801,908 
11,361 

46,500 

11,078 

300 

3,230,835 

969,469 
1,019,  .590 

117,539 
1,101,203 
2,332,287 


Table  5.— CORDAGE   AND    TWINE;   COMPARATIVE 
MARY,  1880  TO  1900. 


;UM- 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salaries 

W'age-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men.  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages .". 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


1900 


IS90 


105 

S29, 275, 470 

436 

S666,93« 

13, 114 

$1,113,112 

7,341 

82,7.51,787 

4,797 

81,212,823 

976 

$148,502 

$1,716, -205 

$26,632,006 

837,1^9,651 


150 

823,351,883 

1  414 

'•8560,639 

12,385 

S3, 976. 232 

6, 412 

$2,517,985 

5,  010 

$1,280,065 

963 

$148,182 

$1,020,697 

$24,051,666 

833,312,559 


IS80 


165 
$7,140,475 
(=) 
(=) 

5,435 

$1,558,676 

2,926 

(') 

1,480 

(=) 

i,a29 

(') 
(') 

89,330.261 
812, 492, 171 


1  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only 
reported  in  1900. 

-  Not  reported  separately. 
'  Not  reported. 


FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS. 


239 


The  tendency  toward  a  consolidation  of  small  estab- 
lishments and  the  transaction  of  l)usiness  on  a  largtir 
scale  was  observable  ten  years  Ago,  when  a  decreased 
number  of  establishments  reported  a  capital  more  than 
threefold  greater  than  in  1880,  and  a  value  of  prod- 
ucts nearly  threefold  greater.  At  the  census  of  1900 
the  number  of  separate  establishments  declined,  as 
compared  with  1890,  almost  one-third,  yet  the  value 
of  products  was  larger.  The  statistics  of  capital  ai"e 
not  strictlv  comparal)le,  since  the  method  of  ascertain- 
ing the  amount  has  been  different  at  each  census. 
The  fact  of  an  increase  may  be  inferred,  but  the  rate 
of  increase  can  not  properly  be  deduced  from  the  fig- 
ures given.  This  is  also  true  I'especting  the  returns  of 
the  average  number  of  persons  employed,  the  method 
of  ascertaining  such  average  having  been  changed.  In 
general,  it  appears  that  the  number  of  wage-earners  has 
not  increased  greath',  if  at  all,  within  the  last  decade. 

The  kind,  quantit}',  and  cost  of  the  materials  used  in 
the  production  of  cordage  and  twine,  and  the  quantity 
and  value  of  the  several  products  are  presented  in 
Tables  6  and  7. 

Table  G.— CORDAGE  AND  TWINE;  KIND,  QUANTITY,  AND 
COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED:  1900. 


Total  . 


Cotton: 

Raw  (26,540  bales). 

Yarn 

Waste 

Flax  fiber; 
European — 

Hough  

Tow 

Line 

Canadian — 

Kough  

Tow 

Domestic- 
Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Linen  yarn 

Hemp: 

Manila 

Sisal 

New  Zealand 

Russian- 
Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Italian — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

American — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Jute 

Butts 

Yarns: 

Jute 

Silk 

Spun 

Worsted 

All  other  materials 


Pounds. 


418,416,811 


022, 755 
860,235 
798, 182 


123, 
146, 


757, 672 

345, 959 

54, 592 

768, 021 
49, 457 

200,000 
703, 943 
487,980 
299, 135 

241,820 

352,853 

;,  344, 371 

,175,605 

44,090 

349, 558 

1,422,104 
305, 917 
296.920 

1,871,805 
1,011,004 
,258,266 
i,  767, 800 
1,281,100 

339,051 

4.774 

1,100 

682 


Cost. 


826,632,006 


.  849,426 

505,041 

37,692 


76,615 
23,191 

7,243 

50, 688 
3,188 

24,000 
64,186 
65,247 
83,525 

8,916,493 

8,827,131 

352,528 

73,165 

1,969 

2,5,063 

256.682 
20, 969 
27, 752 

506, 767 

104,660 

63,  965 

786, 967 

1,107,899 

21,070 

24, 414 

3,450 

308 

3,714,812 


Table  7.— CORDAGE  AND  TWINE;  KIND,  QUANTITY,  AND 
VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1900. 


Total  . 


Twine: 

Cotton,  pounds 

Flax,  pounds 

Hemp,  pounds 

Jute,  pounds 

Flax  or  hemp,  mixed  with  jute,  pounds 
Binder  twine: 

Manila,  pounds 

chiefly  manila.  pounds 

All  or  chiefly  sisal,  pounds 

Rope: 

Cotton,  pounds 

Miiiiila,  iKiunds 

Sisal,  pniuids 

Jute,  pounds 

Gunny  bagging,  square  yards 

Jute  burlap 

Y'am: 

Cotton,  pounds 

Flax  and  hemp,  tow,  pounds 

Flax  and  hemp,  line,  poimds 

Jute,  pounds 

Linen  thread,  pounds 

Waste,  pounds 

Batting  and  wadding,  pounds 

Other  spun  or  woven  goods 

All  other  products,  cotton 

All  other  products 


Quantity. 


8,691,707 
2, 187, 540 
8,299,902 
1,589,127 
12.924,067 

15,261,174 
24,975.568 
125,372,687 

1,615,824 
83, 347. 459 
46. 865, 604 

6,717,317 
41,310,695 


946,567 

2, 552, 955 

10,000 

9,  .551. 188 

100,000 
1,2.51,619 

198,000 
6,241,449 


Value. 


837, 849, 651 


1,133,040 
602,  471 
895,074 
111.239 

1,101,203 

1,. 546, 428 
2,316,2.57 
10,322,890 

247. 2.50 
8,:«0. 113 
3,082,1170 

2.T0.  760 
2, 035. 036 

150,000 

98,928 
345.913 

4,800 

621.687 

17,  (KX) 

20, 146 

7, 125 

534,265 

71.5.013 

2,758,537 


JUTK   AND    JUTE    GOODS. 

The  jute  manufacture  was  represented  at  the  Tenth 
Census  by  4  establishments  only,  having  a  total  capital 
of  ^1.5,000,  and  products  valued  at  §696,982.  Seven 
establishments  were  reported  at  the  Eleventh  Census 
under  the  head  of  jute  and  jute  goods.  It  is  probable, 
however,  that  some  which  were  cla.ssed  as  "bagging, 
flax,  hemp,  and  jute"  are,  in  the  reports  for  1900,  in- 
cluded in  the  class  of  jute  and  jute  goods,  since  it  ap- 
pears that  only  2  of  the  18  estal)lishments  now  making 
returns  have  come"  into  existence  during  the  decade. 
Under  these  circumstances  a  comparison  of  the  statistics 
for  1900  with  those  of  former  census  years  would  be 
misleading.  The  principal  facts  relating  to  the  indus- 
try for  1900  are  presented  in  the  following  summary: 

Table  8.— JUTE  AND  JUTE  GOODS:  1900. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital .* 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number  . 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

ilen.  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used , 

Value  of  products 


87, 027 

8147, 

4, 

81,181 

1, 

$579, 
2 

*480i 

8121, 

8574, 

83,015, 

85,383, 


18 
293 

88 
313 
506 

90 
611 
877 
064 
732 
831 
181 
986 
;)62 
797 


240 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  9  shows  the  kind,  quantity,  and  cost  of  the 
materials  employed  in  the  manufacture. 

Table  9.— JUTE  AND  JUTE  GOODS;  KIND,  QUANTITY,  AND 
COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED:  1900. 


Total 109,049,701 


Jute  . 


Butts 

Yarns 

Hemp: 

Italian 

American 

Cotton  yarn 

All  other  materials . 


, 603, 929 
,525.525 
670, 600 

,363.431 
584, 3as 
301,888 


$3,015,362 


l,frl2,318 
687,754 
48, 434 

83.303 

27,354 

33, 834 

492, 365 


Table  10  presents  a  classification  of   the    principal 
products  of  the  establishments  reporting. 

Table   lO.^IUTE   AND   JUTE   GOODS;   KIND,  QUANTITY, 
AND  VALUE  OF  PRODUCTS:  1900. 


Total  , 


Jute  yarn 

Twine 

Rope 

Burlaps 

Gunny  bagging 

Carpets  and  rugs 

Flax  or  hemp  yams 

Other  spun  or  woven  goods  . 
All  other  products 


pounds.. 

do 

do.... 

.square  yards.. 

do 

do.... 

pounds.. 


Quantity. 


44, 717, 672 

90,000 

4.294,848 

4,361,635 

32. 780, 065 
2,9.53,6.58 
1, 286, 155 


Value. 


85.383,797 


;,  609, 148 
6,300 
212,  653 
236, 129 
,426.843 
S57,  .568 
165,  788 
364,821 
4.547 


LINEN   MANUFACTURE. 

The  report  upon  the  linen  industry  at  the  census  of 
1890  was  most  meager.  Three  estalilishments  onlj' 
producing  linen  goods  were  included  in  the  general 
summaiT  of  manufactures;  2  others  which  made  linen 
thread  came  under  the  rule  which  forbids  the  separate 
tabulation  of  less  than  3  establishments,  and  were  placed 
under  "all  other  industries.''  Inasmuch  as  both  cla.sses 
of  establishments  are  reported  together  in  the  follow- 
ing tables,  the  facts  relating  to  the  5  establishments 
reporting  in  1890  are  now  published  for  the  first  time 
for  purposes  of  comparison. 


Table    11. 


-LINEN     GOODS;    COMPARATIVE    SUMMARY: 
1890  AND  1900. 


1890. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  ofiBcials,  clerks,  etc.,  number 

Salaries 

Wage-eamers,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products 


S.5,688,999 

82,731,130 

117 

'26 

8142,941 

'82.5,530 

3,283 

1,940 

81,036,839 

8527,  .572 

1,014 

648 

8492, 891 

«255,  409 

1,787 

1,193 

8480, 597 

8256, 187 

4.52 

99 

363. 351 

815, 976 

S3S7, 095 

8242,977 

82,  .5.50, 517 

81,594,769 

$4,368,1,59 

82,880,341 

'  Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries;  number  only 
reported  in  1900. 


InavSmuch  as  the  tables  deal  with  so  .small  a  number 
of  establishments,  many  of  them  still  in  the  period  of 
experiment,  no  deduction  is  justified  or  would  be  safe, 
further  than  that  the  industry  has  expanded  greatlj'. 

The  materials  used,  consisting  of  hemp,  flax,  jute, 
and  cotton,  in  great  variety  and  in  various  stages  of 
manufacture,  are  summarized  in  Table  12. 


Table   12.— LINEN  GOODS;   KIND,  QUANTITY,  AND  COST 
OF  MATERIALS  USED:  1900. 


Total. 


Hemp: 

Russian — 

Tow 

Italian- 
Rough 

Line 

American — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Flax: 

European — 

Rough 

Tow 

Line 

Canadian- 
Rough  

Tow 

Line 

Domestic — 

Rough 

Tow 

Flax  or  hemp  yarn . 

Cotton  yarn 

Jute  . 


Pounds. 


17,983,084 


,513,811 
38,938 

40.875 

190,007 

17,996 


All  other  materials. 


,823,239 
,381.204 
1,334,049 

,201,799 
197,893 
131,736 

500,000 
40, 102 
582,006 
810, 957 
71,472 


Cost. 


82,560,517 


194.037 
4.028 

1,9.55 
7,474 
1,710 


591,831 
229,668 
799,450 

99,063 
16,  720 
20,643 

1.760 

2.479 

151,132 

171,014 

2,144 

252, 619 


Table  13  .shows  the  kind,  quantitj-,  and  value  of  the 
principal  products  during  the  census  year  of  the  estab- 
lishments reporting. 

Table  13.— LINEN  GOODS;  KIND,  QUANTITY,  AND  VALUE 
OF  PRODUCTS:  1900. 


Total  . 


Quantity. 


Flax  or  hemp  yarn,  tow pounds. 

Flax  or  hemp  >"arn,  line do... 

Twine,  all  flax' do... 

Twine,  all  hemp do... 

Linen  thread do . . . 

Towels  and  toweling,  all  linen square  yards. 

Towels  and  toweling,  partly  linen do.. . 

Other  woven  fabrics,  all  linen do... 

Other  woven  fabrics,  partly  linen do... 

other  spun  or  woven  goods 

All  other  products 


4,178,117 

232,  426 

1,658.438 

765. 122 

3.921.044 

4.598.615 

2.0.51.247 

83,000 

136,000 


Value. 


84, 368. 159 


556. 392 

53.078 

366.998 

124.516 

2, 315, 287 

471,633 

281,258 

9,110- 

ai.ooo 

152, 603 
3,284 


The  linen  industry  hivs  never  obtained  a  firm  foothold 
in  the  United  States.  In  colonial  times  efl'orts  were 
made  to  promote  the  growth  of  flax,  and  to  introduce 
the  spinning  and  weaving  of  the  fiber.  It  was  the  pol- 
icy of  the  mother  country  to  repre^ss  manufactures  in 
the  colonies?,  but  the  production  of  linen  goods  was  a 
domestic  industry,  which  England  could  not  and  did  not 
try  to  prevent.  The  cultivation  of  flax  was  undertaken 
on  a  small  scale,  and  the  spinning  wheel  and  the  hand- 
loom  were  the  only  available  machinery  for  working  it 
into  cloth.     It  is  probable  that  there  was  in  America 


FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS. 


241 


scarcoly  siiiy  niannfacturc  of  linen  for  salo.  That  which 
wa.s  inadi'  wa--  a  home  product  intended  solely  for  con- 
sunijjtion  in  liie  families  of  the  weavers.  The  factory 
system  had  not  been  ocnei'ally  established  even  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic.  Nevertheless  Hax  was 
already  cultivated  on  a  generous  scale  in  many  districts 
of  Ir(>land,  France,  Gerniaiiy.  and  other  countries,  and 
large  iuiml)t>rs  of  jxMsons  were  emjjhjyed  in  prepai'ation 
of  the  fiber  and  manufacture  of  linen  for  the  market. 

It  IS  exti'cniely  ])rol)able  that  the  desireof  the  Ameri- 
can people  to  introduce  manufacturers,  thus  supplinnent- 
ing  their  political  with  industrial  and  commercial  inde- 
pendence, woidd  have  led  them  to  engage  largely  in  the 
production  of  linen  fabiics  had  not  the  invention  of  the 
cotton  gin  by  Eli  Whitney  (patented  in  1793)  placed  in 
their  hands  a  fiber  cheaper  than  flax,  more  ti'actable, 
re(iuiring  less  care  in  preparation,  more  easily  spun  and 
woven,  superior  for  man}^  purposes  and  decidedly  infe- 
rior for  very  few.  At  all  events,  the  effort  to  intro 
duce  the  linen  manufacture  was  practically  abandoned 
for  the  time  being,  and.  until  recently,  the  attempts  to 
establish  it  in  the  United  States  have  lieen  spasmodic 
and  unsuccessful.  The  difficulties  in  the  path  of  manu- 
facturers are  many.  There  is,  to  speak  broadly,  no 
American  production  of  fi])er  suitable  for  spinning. 
Flax  is  grown  in  great  (luantities.  ))ut  it  is  cultivated 
chiefly  for  the  seed  and  not  for  the  fiber. 

The  proces  of  retting  involves  the  expenditure  of 
too  much  time  and  labor  to  lie  protital)le  to  American 
farmers.  Consequentl}-  it  is  necessary  to  rely  almost 
wholly  upon  foreign  importations  for  the  raw  material. 
Moreover,  the  intermediate  processes  of  mamifacture, 
as  well  as  the  spinning  and  weaving  of  a  fiber  greatl}' 
lacking  in  elasticity,  require  so  much  skill  and  car(>  that 
the  margin  of  profit  is  precarious.  And  finally,  the 
demand  for  the  finished  product  is  far  from  being  so 
broad  and  imperative  as  is  that  for  articles  of  cotton. 


wool,  and  silk.  Linen  is  indispenisable  for  fine  fabrics 
for  the  dining  table,  for  thread  and  twine  where  great 
strength  is  required,  and  for  the  best  quality  of  towel- 
ing; but  for  the  thousand  and  one  uses  to  which  ordi- 
nary cloth  is  put,  cotton  would  be  genei'ally  preferred 
bj'  consumers,  even  if  the  cost  were  the  same. 

It  will  be  inferred  from  these  statements  that  the  linen 
industry  in  th.e  I'nited  States  at  the  present  time  is  not 
extensive,  nor  does  the  prospect  seem  bright.  Never- 
theless, measured  l)y  percentages,  the  increase  dui'ing 
tli(^  last  ten  years  has  been  great.  There  are  certain 
fields  which  American  manufacturers  can  occupy  to 
advantage.  There  is  a  large  demand  for  linen  carpet- 
yarns;  our  immense  shoe  manufacturing  industry'  re- 
quires a  great  quantity  of  linen  thread;  and  the  market 
for  towels  and  toweling  is  practically  unlimited.  The 
first  two  of  these  fields  our  maiuifacturers  have  occupied 
for  many  years.  The  third  they  ha\e  entered  more 
genei'ally  during  the  past  ten  years  than  ever  before. 
This  was  rendered  possible  b}'  a  readjustment  of  tariff 
rates  in  the  act  of  1897.  The  duty  on  the  j'arns  required 
for  such  l)ranches  of  the  manufacture  as  Americans  now 
think  it  expedient  to  engage  in,  was  reduced  to  a  reve- 
nue basis,  and  the  duty  on  manufactured  goods  was 
raised. 

The  manufacture  of  linen  toweling,  which  shows  the 
largest  extension  of  any  branch  of  linen  manufacture  dur- 
ing the  decade,  is  not  fully  reported  in  the  general  tables. 
Several  large  cotton  mamifacturing  establishments  have 
engaged  in  this  industry-;  and  although  their  use  of 
nearly  one  and  a  half  million  pounds  of  linen  varn  is 
reported  among  the  materials  consumed,  the  schedules 
issued  to  them  made  no  provision  for  a  separate  report 
of  the  character,  quantity,  or  value  of  their  linen 
products. 

Table  14  is  a  detailed  statement  of  the  statistics  for 
flax,  hemp,  and  jute  products,  by  states,  for  1900. 


Table  14.— FL.\X,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS,  BY  STATES:  1900. 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization: 

1  ndividual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

Capital : 

Total 

Land 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  olhcials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Oflicers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number 

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

MO\ TEXT 16 


UnitedStates. 


Alabama. 


36 
31 

74 

$41,991,762  I 
$2,4.57,349  ■ 
$5,146,574  I 
$9,  789, 559  : 

$24,598,280 
100  ! 

641  . 
$957,190 

145 
$422,046  i 

496 
$535, 144 

442 
$509,158 

54 
$25,986 


Connecticut. 


$298, 448 
$27, 026 
$45, 951 

$169,  976 
$55, 495 


10 
$10,980 

7 
$8,040 

3 

$2,940 

3 
$2,940 


$297, 962 
$8,000 
$25. 300 
$85, 400 
$179. 262 
7 

5 
$3,500 


$1,950 


3 
$1,550 


2 
$1,050 


1 
$500 


Kentucky. 


2 
2 
2 

$459, 295 

$1,500 

$40,200 

$202, 789 

$214, 806 

7 

23 
$26,024 

5 
$10,000 

18 
$16,024 

16 
$15,244 

2 

$780 


Massachu- 
setts. 


New  Jersey. 


7 
5 
16 

$10,223,490 

$191,974 

$1,298,786 

$1, 839, 725 

86,593,005 

16 

138 
$203,943 


S92, 741 

HI 
$111,202 

95 
$102,630 


1 
5 

$3,413,163 
$2.52,421 
8794.320 
$851,805 

$1,514,617 
1 

67 
$80,651 

5 

$15, 700 

52 
$64,851 

51 
$64,212 

1 

$639 


242 


MANUFACTURES. 

Table  14.— FLAX,  HEMP,  AND  JUTE  PRODUCTS,  BY  STATES:  1900— Continued. 


CnitedStates. 


Alabama. 


Connecticut. 


Kentucky. 


Massachu- 
setts. 


New  Jersey. 


Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year. 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

-iverage  number 

Wages 

Men.  16  years  and  over- 
Average  number 

Wages 

Women,  If)  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years- 
Average  number 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses; 


Total. 


Rent  of  works 

Ta.xes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto 
included 

Contract  work 

Materials  used; 

Total  cost 

Principal  materials 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 

Products; 

Total  value 


24,947 

17,688 

■20,903 

$6,331,741 

9,996 
W,  824, 555 

8,648 
$2, 174, 152 

2,259 
8333,034 

$2,678,286 
$158, 7.53 
$222,670 

S2, 270,  745 
$26, 118 

$32,197,885 

$27. 746, 312 

$390,  746 

$19,343 

$736,820 

$3,001,923 

$302,  741 

$47,601,607  I 


306 

258 

282 

$47,613 

89 
$25,771 

106 
$13,525 


$8,347 

$14,654 

$775 

Si,  749 

$12, 130 


$166, 145 

$151, 668 

$5,557 


S3, 877 
$2,300 

$2,743 

$253,660 


274 

261 

265 

$69,544 

142 
$43,016 

120 
$25,988 

3 
$540 

$6,443 

$387 
$1,782 

$4,274 


588 

389 

492 

$149, 937 

285 
$109,746 

162 
$34,176 

45 
$6,015 

$39,  M7 
$3,530 
$1,633 

$34,681 


$196,332 

$179, 168 

$2, 212 

"$306 

$6,208 

$209  1 
$8,229 

$312,446 


©41,515 

$309,278 

$6,145 


$7, 169 
$10,190 
$8,733 

$602,701 


5,195 
4,075 
4,693 

$1,562,862 
I 
2,M9  I 

$1,020,085 

1,770  I 
$490,991  I 


$51,786 

$601,542 
$7,170 
$85,334 

$506,884 
$•2,154 

n,  539, 43S 

«, 782. 696 

$106, 9S(; 

$4,965 

$278, 951 

$343,642 

$22, 193 

SU,  388, 933 


2,332 

1,963 

2,127 

$624,988 

6.56 
$295,008 

1,009 
$271,744 

462 
$58,236 

$223, 118 

$600 

$34,569 

$187,949 


$1,760,426 
$1, 616, 754 
$28,645 
$4,563 
$.54,756 
$45,219 
$10,489 

$2,955,844 


New  York. 


Ohio. 


Pennsylva- 
nia. 


Rhodelsland. 


Wisconsin. 


All  other 
states.  1 


Number  of  establishments 

Character  of  organization; 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership  , 
Incorporated  company 

Capital: 


Total. 


Land .'. . 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.; 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Officers  of  corporations — 

Number 

Salaries 

General  superintendents,  managte,  clerks,  etc.— 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men — 

Number - 

Salaries ^ 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year. 

Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year 

.\verage  number 

Wages - 

Men,  16  years  and  over — 

A  vefage  number 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

A  verage  number 

Wages 

Children,  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

ilificellaneous  expenses: 


Total. 


Ren  t  of  works \ 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hitherto 
included 

Contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Total  cost 

Prmcipal  materials 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies _ 

A  U  ot  her  materials 

Freight 

Products. 

Total  value 


3 
5 

14 

$10,311,768 

$422, 704 

$925,858 

$2, 7a4, 491 

$6, 228, 715 

15 

148 
$306,331 

30 
$156, 755 

118 
$149,576 

104 
$142, 627 

14 
$6,949 

6,439 

4,428  ■ 
5,450 
$1,713,614 

2,657 
$1,039,333 

2,312 
$592,893 

481 
$81,388 

$782, 719 
$125,234 
$40,915 

$616,570 


$7,516,240 

$6,781,255 

$116, 905 

$8,012 

$164, 676 

$412, 079 

$33,313 

$11, 674, 669 


1 

1 
7 

$2, 147, 677 
$65,415 
$272,751 
$624,270 

$1,185,241 


47 
$54,205 

11 
$17,2.tO 

36 
$36,955 

32 
$34,999 

4 
$1,956 

1,.574 

764 

1,052 

$317, 909 

725 
$255,095 

315 

$60,766 

12 
$2,048 

$96,471 

$1, 151 

$10, 174 

$85,146 


$2,325,907 

$2,170,059 

$20, 915 


$28,709 
$46,923 
$.59, 301 


8 
8 
5 

$6, 162, 509 

$441,671 

$636,950 

$1,233,540 

$3,850,348 

25 

90 
$103, 788 


$31,700 


82 
$72,088 


$67,960 

10 
$4,128 

2,919 

2,331 

2,683 

$761,582 

1,089 
$449, 927 

1,083 
$238,628 

511 
$73,027 

$147, 126 
$2,600 
$7, 526 

$114, 603 
$22,397 

$5,448,323 
$3,298,823 

$29,091 
$60 

$95, 079 
$1, 950, 491 

$74, 779 


1 
1 

$95,947 
$3,000 
$15,000 
$39, 226 

$38,721 
7 

4 

$2,670 


4 
$2,670 


4 
$2,670 


$213,565 
$25,000 
526, 870 

$102, 310 

$59,385 

6 

11 

$8,840 

4 
$2,760 


$6,080 


$6,080 


84 
$22, 175 


38 
$11,694 


46 
$10, 481 


$2,957,674    $7,256,548 


$8,052 

$2, 1.50 

$246 

$4,089 
$1,567 

$63,954 
$57,  423 
$707 
$750 
$6-56 
$4,131 
$287 

$108,715 


142 

115 

128 

$35,085 

46 
$17,291 

61 
$15,779 

21 
$2,015 

$7,  .574 

$44 

$1,103 

$6,427 


$109,016 

$103,0.50 

$2,136 


$1,757 

$700 

$1,373 

$185,166 


5 
5 
17 

$8, 367, 938 
$718,638 
$1,061,588 
$1,906,027 
$4,678,685 
14 

110 
$156,358 

48 
$85,150 

62 
$71,208 

56 
$68,746 

6 
$2,462 

5,066 

2,957 

3.617 

$1,026,402 

1,620 
$557,589 

1.665 
$419, 181 

362 
$49,632 

$760, 740 
$15,11£ 
$37,639 

$697,989 


$6,730,594 
$6, 2%,  138 
$71, 447 
$687 
S94.982 
5186.039 
$81. 301 

59,905.351 


1  Includes  states  having  less  than  3  establishments  in  order  that  the  operations  of  individual  establishments  may  not  be  disclosed.  These  establishments  are 
distributed  as  follows;  Arkansas,  1;  California,  2:  Delaware.  1:  Georgia,  1;  Illinois,  2.  Indiana,  1;  Iowa.  1:  Kansas,  1;  Maine,  2;  Maryland,  1:  Michigan.  1:  Min- 
nesota, 1,  Mississippi,  1;  Missouri,  2,  New  Hampshire,  1;  North  Carolina,  2:  Oregon.  1;  South  Carolina,  1;  Tennessee,  2;  Texas  2. 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 


(243) 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 


By  Edward  Stanwood,  Expei't  Special  Agent. 


Dj'eing  and  finishing  textiles  is  carried  on  as  an  in- 
dustry- in  independent  establishments,  and  also  as  one 
of  the  processes  in  a  considerable  numl)er  of  the  fac- 
tories engaged  in  cotton,  wool,  and  silk  manufactures. 
The  various  statistics  relating  to  capital,  employees, 
wages,  miscellaneous  expenses,  cost  of  materials,  and 
value  of  products,  as  to  the  independent  establishments, 
must  be  given  in  order  to  complete  the  information  re- 
garding the  textile  industry  as  a  whole.  In  the  presen- 
tation of  these  statistics  the  rule  adopted  at  all  previous 
censuses,  except  one,  has  been  followed.  Inasmuch  as 
all  the  material  operated  upon — yarn,  cloth,  hosiery, 
etc. — was  reported  by  other  textile  establishments  as 
products  of  manufacture,  a  return  by  the  establishments 
exclusively  engaged  in  dyeing  and  finishing  textiles  of 
the  total  value  of  the  articles  after  the  dyeing  and 
finishing  would  have  resulted  in  great  duplication.  For 
this  rea-son  the  yarn  and  fabrics  have  been  totally  ex- 
cluded from  the  statement  of  materials,  and  only  the 
value  added  to  the  materials  by  the  processes  have  been 
given  as  the  value  of  the  products  of  this  particular 
branch  of  the  textile  industry'. 

The  magnitude  of  the  business  of  d3'eing  and  finishing 
can  be  ascertained  only  b)-  combining  the  statistics  of 
independent  establishments  with  similar  infomiation  as 
to  this  work  in  other  bi-anches  of  the  textile  industry. 
Outside  of  the  independent  establishments,  however, 
the  finishing  processes  are  subordinate  to  the  process  of 
manufacture,  and  the  schedules  provided  for  the  taking 
of  the  textile  industry  wei-e  not  sufficiently  uniform  in 
the  details  relating  to  dyeing  and  finishing  to  render  a 
full  presentation  possible.  Thus,  the  wool  schedule 
calls  for  the  value  of  chemicals  and  dve  stuffs  used  in 
the  mills  devoted  to  that  industry,  but  not  for  the 
amount  of  goods  operated  upon.  On  the  other  hand, . 
the  silk  schedule  calls  for  the  amount  of  goods  operated 
upon,  but  not  for  the  value  of  chemicals  and  dye  stuffs 
used. 


The  total  cost  of  chemicals  and  dye  stuffs  used  in  al', 
textile  establishments  in  1890  and  1900  so  far  as  reported 
was  as  follows: 


1900 

1S90 

Total 

825,392,573 

819,686,663 

Independent  dyeing  and  finishing  establishments., 
other  textile  establishments     

10,667,621 
14,724,952 

8,407,693 
11,278,970 

6,718,107 
7,983,681 
1,0'23,161 

4,266,773 

6,889,612 

664,053 

558,532 

1  IiichidiTifr  woolen  goods;  worsted  goods;  carpets  and  rugs,  other  than  rag 
felt  gi"  "1m  and  wool  hats  in  1890  and  1900. 
-  Not  reported  separately  in  1900. 

The  increase  in  cost  of  chemicals  and  dj^e  stuffs  for 
the  last  decade  has  been  marked;  for  the  independent 
establishments  from  $8,407,693  in  1890  to  $10,667,621 
in  1900,  an  increase  of  $2,2.59,928,  or  26.9  per  cent; 
and  in  cotton  and  wool  manufactures,  including  hosiery 
and  knit  goods,  from  $10,720,438  to  $14,724,952.  an 
increase  of  $4,004,514,  or  37.4  per  cent. 

The  large  decrease  in  the  price  of  merchandise  in  the 
decade  is  to  be  taken  into  account  in  examining  the 
foregoing  table.  The  (luantity  of  chemicals  used  and 
the  quantity  of  yarn  and  cloth  operated  upon  increased 
in  a  much  greater  ratio  than  the  value  represented  in 
products.  In  the  case  of  some  articles  the  increase 
can  be  shown.  For  example,  the  amount  of  cotton 
piece  goods  printed  in  1890  was  722,257,451  square 
yards,  of  which  579,067,368  square  3"ards  were  printed 
in  independent  establishments  and  142,590,083  in  cot- 
ton mills.  In  1900  the  aggregate  was  1.233,191,438 
square  yards,  an  increase  of  70.7  per  cent.  Of  this, 
940,450,338  square  yards  were  printed  by  independent 
establishments  and  292,741,100  square  yards  in  cotton 


(245) 


246 


MANUFACTURES. 


mills,  au  increase  of  62.2  per  cent  and  105.8  per  cent, 
respectively. 

The  facts  relating  to  the  dyeing  and  finishing  of  cot- 
ton goods  and  silk  goods  are  set  forth  in  tlie  reports 
on  those  branches  of  the  textile  industry.  It  has  been 
explained  that  those  relating  to  the  wool  industiy  are 


not  ascertainable  in  a  way  to  throw  much  light  upon 
the  subject.  The  following  tables  and  remarks  apply 
to  the  independent  establishments  only. 

Table  1  presents  a  comparative  summary  of  the  in- 
dustry of  dyeing  and  finishing  textiles  during  the  last 
half  centurv. 


Table  1.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY,  1850  TO  1900,  WITH  PER  CENT  OF  INCREASE  FOR  EACH  DECADE. 


Number  of  establishments 

Capital 

Salaried  officials,  clerks,  etc.,  number. 

Salarie.s 

Wage-earners,  average  number 

Total  wages 

Men,  16  years  and  over 

Wages 

Women,  16  years  and  over 

Wages  .* 

Children,  under  16  years 

Wages 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

Cost  of  materials  used 

Value  of  products , 


DATE  OP  CENSD8. 


1900 


298 

$60, 643, 104 

1,318 

$2,267,128 

29, 776 

$12, 726, 316 

24, 419 

$11,361,194 

4,253 

$1,166,972 

1,104 

$198, 150 

$4, 137, 947 

$17,958,137 

$44,963,331 


1890 


248 

$38,450,800 

2  666 

2  380.5, 291 

19,601 

$8,911,720 

16,  .510 

$8,147,844 

2, 298 

$620,390 

793 

$143,  486 

$3,131,0.81 

$12,385,220 

$28, 900, 560 


1S80 


191 
$26,223,981 


16, 698 

6,474,364 

12, 788 


1,872 

(=) 

(') 
$13,664,295 
$32,297,420 


1870 


42 
$13,367,553     $3, 


1860 


29 
517,250 


M,438, 
6, 
{") 
1, 

1, 

$46, 373, 
$54,446, 


0.S9 
092 


4,005 

,088,296 

3,433 

(^) 
572 

(?) 


$7, 


884,815 
971,064 


1860 


42 
(,922,800 

m 

4,080 

.,088,904 

3,351 

729 


$10, 

$13, 


462,044 
680,805 


PEE  CENT   OF  IhXBEASE. 


1890 

to 
1900 


20.2 
57.7 
97.9 
181.5 
61.9 
42.8 
47.9 
39.4 
85.1 
88.1 
39.2 
38.1 
32. 2 
45.0 
55.6 


1880 

to 
1890 


29.8 
46.6 


17.4 
37.6 
29.1 


12.8 


'57.6 


»9.4 
110.5 


1870     1860 

tc     i     to 
1880  ;  1870 


354.8  1    44.8 
96. 2  !  280. 1 


87. 7  122. 1 
88.3  215.9 
109. 9       77. 5 


46. 3     143. 5 


32.9 


170.5 
'40.7 


I8a« 

to 
1860 


'31.0 
no.  3 


11.8 

10.1 

2.4 


•21.5 


1093.7       162.9 
583.0       141.7 


1  Decrea.se. 

^Includes  proprietors  and  firm  members,  with  their  salaries:  number  only  reported  in  1900,  but  not  included  in  this  table.     {See  Table  5.) 

"Not  reported  separately. 

<Not  reported. 


The  statements  for  18.50  and  I860  included  only  the 
statistics  of  calico  printing  and  satinet  printing,  but  it 
may  be  fairly  assumed  that  these  processes  were  sub- 
stantially the  only  ones  which  came  properly  under  the 
head  of  dyeing  and  finishing  tha'  were  then  performed 
on  a  large  scale  in  the  United  States.  During  the  last 
half  century  the  amount  of  capital  employed  in  the 
industry  has  increased  more  than  rifteenfold.  It  nearly 
doubled  between  1870  and  1880,  increased  46.6  per  cent 
between  1880  and  1890,  and  57.7  per  cent  during  the 
last  decade.  The  number  of  wage-earners  increased  at 
a  smaller  ratio,  but  the  increase  from  1890  to  1900  was 
substantially  equal  to  the  increase  of  capital. 


The  statements  of  materials  used  and  value  of  prod- 
ucts are  necessarily  misleading  in  one  respect,  namely, 
that  in  1870  the  total  value  of  the  yarn  and  cloth  oper- 
ated upon  were  reported  as  cost  of  materials,  and  the 
value  of  the  goods  after  the  operations  were  performed 
was  reported  as  the  total  value.  This  accounts  for  the 
inconsistency  in  the  cost  of  materials  and  value  of  prod- 
ucts shown  for  1870  compared  with  similar  items  at 
other  censuses. 

Table  2  exhibits  the  general  facts  relating  to  the 
industry  in  detail  as  ascertained  at  the  censuses  of  1890 
and  1900. 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 

Table  2.— COMPARATIVE  SUMMARY  BY  STATES:  1890  AND  1900. 


247 


Year. 

Num- 
ber of 

estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

CAPITAL. 

SALARIED  orri- 

CIALS,  CLERKS,  ETC. 

AVERAGE  NUMBER  WAGE-EARNERS  AND 
TOTAL  WAGES. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Land, 

Buildings. 

Machinery, 
tools,  and 
imple- 
ments. 

Cash  and 
sundries. 

Num- 
ber. 

Salaries. 

Average 
number. 

Total 
wages. 

Men, 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Women, 

16  years 

and 

over. 

Chil- 
dren, 
under 
16  years. 

UnitedStates.. 

1900 
1890 

298 
248 

860, 643, 104 
38,450,800 

85,304,949 
2,579,114 

812,251,886 
7, 5%,  641 

$17, 750, 574 
9,703,284 

825,335,695  I 
18,571,761 

1,318 
666 

$2,267,128 
805,291 

29,776 
19, 601 

$12, 726,  316 
8,911,720 

24,419 
16,610 

4,283 
2,298 

1,104 
793 

Connecticut 

Illinois 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
'1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
=  1«90 

1900 
1890 

1900 
18P0 

1900 
11890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

6 
5 

4 
3 

3,243,744 
775,352 

113,694 
26,500 

161,239 

482, 100 
58,700 

7,500 
3,500 

7,800 

1, 004,  388 
331,184 

42,000 
6,000 

28,922 

929, 262 
231,212 

50,800 
11,000 

55,465 

827, 994 
154,256 

13,394 
6.000 

69,062 

39 
12 

7 
5 

7 

100,884 
14,250 

6,700 
2,532 

9,090 

1,300 
477 

84 
16 

116 

578,756 
237,102 

27,878 
7,892 

45,225 

1,015 
390 

69 
13 

83 

238 

85 

10 
3 

25 

47 
2 

,5 

Kentucky 

8 

Massachusetts  .. 
New -Hampshire 

37 
33 

5 

16, 206, 200 
11,996,154 

883,704 

1,161,503 
673,  931 

61,000 

1,  %0, 972 
2,010,68" 

153,000 

2,499,388 
2,502,895 

173,500 

9,584,337 
6,808,641 

4%,  204 

239 
82 

21 

547,862 
99,320 

23,900 

4,678 
4,270 

1,028 

2,081,015 
1,809,787 

451,960 

3,846 
3,527 

789 

735 
539 

239 

97 
204 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

North  Carolina  . 

59 
41 

42 
49 

5 

11,600,695 
5,197,403 

6,230,657 
4,963,095 

293,831 

651,481 
333,936 

339,909 
306,  300 

4,700 

2, 100, 3% 
879,577 

1,335,748 
721,  700 

33,800 

4, 624, 059 
1,782,696 

2, 097,  .541 
1,137,566 

184, 022 

4, 224, 769 
2,201,194 

2,457,459 
2, 737, 529 

71,309 

363 
129 

107 
114 

8 

614,910 
179,426 

134,345 
137,473 

6,650 

7,074 
3,736 

3,117 
2,725 

184 

3, 003, 491 
1,878,137 

1,424,. 578 
1,344,250 

45,340 

6, 120 
3,335 

2,395 
2,174 

142 

786 
346 

636 
415 

42 

168 
61 

86 
136 

Pennsylvania... 
Rhode  Island  . . . 
All  other  states  !i. 

105 
83 

24 
22 

9 
12 

7,679,906 
6,296,340 

12,853,123 
5,739,692 

2,376,311 
3,456,264 

733,612 

598,647 

1,572,306 
432,600 

283,038 
111,600 

1,290,133 
1,364,200 

3, 766, 314 
1,832,398 

537,213 
460,895 

2,368,629 
1,839,121 

3, 862, 803 
1,498,323 

906, 115 
700, 471 

3,287,532 
2,504,372 

3, 652, 700 
1,976,371 

650,  945 
2,183,398 

216 
190 

256 
101 

65 
33 

260,277 
207,257 

449,  996 
130, 069 

112,514 
34,976 

4,716 
3,355 

5,942 
3,619 

1,537 
1,404 

2,065,752 
1,596,666 

2,474,042 
1,462,9% 

528,279 
574,991 

4,013 
2, 964 

4,644 
2,904 

1,303 
1,203 

346 
212 

1,039 
570 

157 
128 

357 

179 

2.59 
146 

77 
73 

Y'ear. 

Num- 
ber of 
estab- 
lish- 
ments. 

Miscellaneous 
expenses. 

COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED. 

STATES. 

Total. 

Chemicals  and 
dyestuffs. 

Starch. 

Soap. 

Fuel. 

Rent  of 

power  and 

heat. 

All  other 
materials. 

Value  of 
products. 

United  States  .. 

1900 
1890 

298 
248 

$4,137,947 
3,131,081 

817,958,137 
12, 385, 220 

810,667,621 
8,407,693 

$874,643 
660,577 

$563,809 
279,272 

$2,165,091 
1,647,848 

$53,730 
23,138 

$3,633,243 
1,366,692 

844,  %3, 331 
28,900,560 

Connecticut 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
'1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
21890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
'1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

1900 
1890 

5 
5 

4 
3 

3 

216, 075 
77,336 

5,913 
1,426 

9,702 

907, 377 
300,360 

32,523 
6,846 

84,023 

561,619 
114,126 

18, 966 
4,270 

71,618 

36,715 

17,815 

660 

17,129 
2,049 

445 
S04 

160 

113,780 
58,711 

7,546 
1,072 

6,300 

7,955 

170, 179 
107, 669 

6,006 
1.000 

1,703 

2,269,%7 
716,388 

86, 960 
26,741 

179,123 

Illinois 

Kentucky  

4,162 

180 

Massachusetts 

New  Hampshire.. 

37 
33 

5 

866,829 
869, 669 

111,478 

3,110,910 
2,801,364 

636,469 

2,031,072 
1,950,550 

309,2% 

160,016 
125,288 

23,646 

9,506 
25,899 

26,034 

393,711 
404,778 

74,461 

6,512 
6,413 

60 

611,093 
288,736 

203,992 

8,868,290 
6, 4%,  216 

1,328,319 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

North  Carolina... 

59 
41 

42 
49 

5 

809,580 
752, 461 

210,395 
367,935 

13,366 

4,513,768 
2,711,121 

1,402,373 
1,464,119 

95,210 

2,755,653 
2,068,192 

689, 826 
889,577 

13,000 

165,728 
109,466 

63, 124 
73,836 

14,834 

224,298 
83,775 

46,131 
44.321 

220 

411. 178 
239,329 

202,074 
216, 618 

10, 767 

9,497 
2,500 

8,  .564 
4,775 

947,614 
207,859 

392,658 
224,992 

66,389 

10,488,963 
6,183,397 

3,626,882 
3,636,061 

175  751 

Pennsylvania  — 

Rhode  Island 

All  other  states^. . 

105 
83 

24 
22 

9 

12 

556,083 
419, 456 

1,138,065 
393,549 

200,461 
249, 249 

3,174,607 
2,396,482 

3,087,781 
1,819,361 

913,1% 
8%,  677 

2,068,174 
1,808,041 

1,6.53,059 
1,064,475 

495.539 
508,462 

94,373 
107,269 

205,321 
129,050 

106,164 
97,853 

172,970 
80,793 

62,048 
32,205 

5,868 
10,026 

342,671 
284,616 

513,837 
351,521 

88,776 
91,273 

8.772 
6,250 

20 
1,200 

13,180 
2,000 

487,  .547 
108,583 

653,496 
240,900 

203, 669 
186,  %3 

7,038,012 
5,240,761 

8,484,878 
4,743,561 

2,417,187 
1,868,446 

1  No  establishments  reported,  1890. 
'  Included  in  "  all  other  states,"  1890. 

3  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  1900— Alabama,  1;  Delaware,  2;  Indiana, 1;  Maine, 1;  Maryland,  2;  Ohio,  1;  West  Virginia,  1.    1890— Delaware.  1: 
Iowa,  1;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2;  Minnesota,  1;  Missouri,  1;  New  Hampshire,  2;  Ohio,  2;  West  Virginia,  1. 


248 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tli(>  miiiiher  of  independent  establishments  incroa.sod 
durinff  tlie  dccado  from  248  to  i'.tS.  Of  tiiis  intToaso, 
22  are  credited  to  reiin.sylvania  and  IS  to  New  Jerscj-, 
and  tbiey  indicate  a  great  exten.sion  of  the  business  of 
silk  d3'eing  and  finishing  in  the  2  states  where  tiie  silk 
industry  is  most  concentrated.  The  increase  in  the 
other  items  is  more  nearly  ecjualized  among  the  states 
owing  to  the  expan.sion  of  individual  establishments. 
Tiius,  in  Connecticut  the  amount  of  capital  reported  is 
more  than  four  times  as  great  in  I'JOU  as  in  ISUO, 
although  the  number  of  establishments  is  the  same. 
Rhode  Island,  with  only  2  additional  establishments, 
has  more  than  doubled  its  capital,  and  Mas.sachusetts, 
althtmgh  adding  but  -i  establishments,  has  26.8  percent 
greater  capital.  The  same  fact  appears  in  the  statement 
of  the  average  number  of  wage-earners,  for  although 
nearly  one-half  of  the  increase  has  taken  place  in  the 
states  of  New  Jersej^  and  Pennsylvania,  there  has  also 
been  a  large  increase  in  the  New  England  states,  where 
the  number  of  establishments  has  not  substantially  in- 
creased. 

Of  the  total  cost  of  materials  used,  $17,958,137,  the 
cost  of  chemicals  and  dyestuils  represents  a  value  of 
§10,667,621,  or  about  59.4  per  cent  of  the  whole.  In 
1890  the  corresponding  percentage  was  about  67.9  per 
cent — a  fact  which  illustrates  the  decline  which  has 
taken  place  during  the  decade  in  the  cost  of  such  ma- 
terials. 

The  increase  in  the  added  value  given  to  fabrics  by 
the  pi'ocesses  to  which  they  were  subjected  is  .55.6  per 
cent  in  comparison  with  an  increase  of  45  per  cent  in 
the  cost  of  materials  used.  The  difference  is  due  to  the 
fact  that,  while  the  cost  of  materials  has  declined,  the 
items  of  wages  and  miscellaneous  expenses  have  not. 

Table  3  presents  the  quantity  and  value  of  all  classes 
of  goods  operated  upon  and  value  added  in  independent 
establishments,  1890  and  1900. 


T.\BLE.3.— COMPAR.VTIVK  SUMMARY,  KINDS  AND  QUAN- 
TITY OF  GOODS  OPERATED  UPON  AND  VALUE  ADDED 
BY  INDEPENDENT  ESTABLISHMENTS,  1890  AND  1900. 


liMM) 

isno 

Pounds, 

Value. 

Pounds. 

Value. 

Aggregate  value  - 

$44,963,331 

828,900,560 

Total  .                  .     ... 

118,097,838 

8,097,439 

85,575,424 

6,001,751 

300,650 

12,466,700 

2,408,511 

12, 780,  .518 

54,103,555 

868,8.51 

20, 755, 984 

8, 474,. 562 

5,609,444 

329,063 

4,823 

572,661 

83,071 

252,635 

2,226,912 
159,616 
567,001 
491,291 

3,615,644 
133, 785 

Cotton  stock,  dyed 

Wool  stock,  dved         



4,676,344 
1,160,666 

204,827 
48,828 

C()tton  yarn,  bleached 

Cotton  yarn,  dyed 

Cotton  yarn,  mercerized 



48,762,759 

2,036,127 

Woolen  yarn,  dyed 

i7,999,65i 

9,342,1.57 

3,322,017 

311,830 

7.51.801 

493,974 

2,346,387 

119,810 

Silk  yarn,  dyed ". 

Spun  silk  yarn,  dyed 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Square  yards. 

Value. 

Total 

2,511,485,729 

834,599,542 

1,669,422,631 

822,514,000 

Cotton  piecegoods, bleached 

Cotton  piece  goods,  dyed 

Cotton  piece  goods,  mercer- 
ized   

964,902,367 
559,480,339 

7,973,506 

940, 450, 338 

11,243,394 

9,413,337 
14,340,796 

3,681,6.52 

6,691,423 
7,  .586, 204 

400,118 
15, 997, 087 
451,864 
476,951 
481,463 
335,154 
2,180,278 

454, 357, 7.58 
446,496,822 

3,369,940 
5,671,488 

Cotton  piece  goods,  printed  . 
Woolen  piece  goods,  dyed. . , 
Worsted  piece  goods,  dyed . . 

silk  piece  goods,  dyed 

Silk  piece  goods,  printed 

Mixed  piece  goods,  dved 

579, 667, 368 

[•    20,779,034 

7,40.5,399 

10,3»,032 
652,998 
394, 777 

60,716,250 

2, 069, 765 

All  other  work  done 

2,266,3.50 

3*1,806 

Inasmuch  as  the  dyeing  and  finishing  of  goods  in 
cotton  mills  represents  generally  merely  work  upon 
their  own  products,  the  true  measure  of  increase  of  the 
business  is  discovered  more  from  the  foregoing  table 
than  from  a  combination  of  the  two.  It  will  be  seen 
that  there  has  been  an  increase  in  almost  all  depart- 
ments of  dyeing  and  tinishing,  but  the  increase  is  much 
less  marked  in  the  case  of  woolen  goods  than  in  cotton 
and  silk. 

Table  4  shows,  by  states,  with  totals  for  the  United 
States,  the  returns  of  establishments  engaged  in  dyeing 
and  tinishing  cotton,  woolen,  and  wor.sted,  silk,  and 
mixed  goods,  and  yarns,  respectively.  1900,  and  Table  5 
presents  a  detailed  summary  of  the  industry  for  1900. 


250 


MANUFACTURES. 


Tablk  4.— ])YKIX(i  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES: 

COTTON  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


United  State* 

Connecticut 

Kentucky 

Massachusetts 

New  Hampsliire  . . . 

New  Jersey 

New  York 

North  Carolina 

Pennsylvania 

Rhode  Island 

All  other  states  ' . . . 


5 

3,243,744 

3 

161,239 

33 

14, 927, 375 

4 

675, TOi 

20 

7, 264,. 547 

17 

4,959,763 

5 

293, 831 

56 

5,799,6.50 

20 

12,573,769 

10 

2,388,228 

1,300 
116 

4,  577 
903 
3, 459 
2,143 
184 
3,2,S6 
5,760 
1,608 


578,756 
45,225 

2,031,255 
409,960 

1,467,571 
997,175 
45,340 

1,369,807 

2,389,911 
512, 474 


1,015 

83 
3,771 

749 
2,809 
1,708 

142 
2,748 
4,531 
1,291 


■an 

47 

■in 

8 

709 

97 

1>) 

.5.52 

98 

;M9 

86 

r> 

2.54 

284 

97.'5 

256 

137 

80 

WOOLEN  GOODS  AND  WORSTED  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


■\ 

United  States                                                  

33 

81,561,790 

1,236 

5603,100 

1,076 

137 

23 

o 

3 

3 

23 

i 

128,749 

63,322 

1,201,442 

168, 277 

64 
45 
942 

185 

23,819 

19,965 

477,081 

82,235 

44 
44 
867 
121 

20 

1 
54 
62 

1 

21 
2 

MIXED  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


-\ 

United  States                                    

41 

$2,355,930 

1,416 

$598,653 

956 

401 

56 

o 

6 

10 
20 
5 

276,987 

1,010,952 

492,061 

575, 930 

99 
685 
355 

277 

45,740 
288,464 
147,877 
116,572 

91 
444 
272 
149 

5 
241 
33 
125 

3 

50 
3 

SILK  GOODS  AND  YAENS. 


1 

United  States                                         

51 

S4, 437, 534 

3,888 

51,677,089 

3,540 

279 

69  ^ 

32 

13 

6 

4,052,461 
198,320 
186, 753 

3,510 
245 
133 

1,486,628 
119, 474 
70,987 

3,214 
200 
126 

229 
45 
5 

^\ 

y\ 

1  Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Alabama,  1:  Delaware,  2 
^Includes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Illinois,  1;  New  Jersey,  1 
3  Includes  1  establishment  :u  Massachusetts  and  1  in  New  Hampshire. 
<  Includes  1  establishment  in  Illinois. 


Illinois,  2:  Indiana,  1:  Maine,  1:  Maryland, 
Ohio,  1;  Rhode  Island,  1. 


'.Vest  Virginia,  1. 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 

BY  CLASSES  OF  TEXTILES,  1900. 


251 


COTTON  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


POWER. 

Printing 
machines. 

Miscellaneous 
expenses. 

COST  OF  MATERIALS  USED. 

Value  of  prod- 
ucts. 

Steam 
horse- 
power. 

Water 
horse- 
power. 

All  other 
horse- 
power. 

Total. 

Chemicals  and 

dyestuffs. 

Fuel. 

Rent  of 

power  and 

heat. 

All  other  ma- 
terials. 

49,415 

9,074 

3,316 

298 

83,630,012 

814,019,084 

88,033,680 

81,827,815 

836,034 

84,121,565 

835,350,505 

1 

2,-553 

284 

11,662 

20 

6,864 

5,139 

346 

7.464 

12,303 

2,781 

2,156 

400 
40 
122 

16 
1 
68 
16 
53 
49 

216,075 

9,702 

857, 065 

89, 128 
699, 590 
123, 686 

13,366 

401,404 

1,121,563 

198,433 

907,377 

84,023 

3,036,697 

556,869 
2,246,230 
1, 129, 216 
9.5,210 
2, 136, 181 
2,954,298 

873,983 

561,619 

71, 518 

1,984,716 

294, 296 
1,112,252 

585,627 

13,000 

1,372,179 

1,573,466 

465,018 

lis,  780 

6,300 

382,562 

72,251 
251.519 
170.774 

10,767 
235,871 
497,461 

86,530 

7,955 
180 
5,512 
.50 
6,237 
1,245 

224,023 
6,026 
662,907 
190,272 
876,222 
371,570 
71,443 
526,476 
883,362 
309,255 

2,269,967 
179, 123 
8,698,626 
1, 132, 819 
5,247,300 
2,491,791 
175,7.50 
4,687,405 
8,192,350 
2,276,374 

2 

2,300 
375 

1,330 
240 

4 

5 

R 

7 

6 

H 

35 

676 

1,963 

30 
63 
2 

1,6.55 

20 

13,180 

2,577 
172 

10 

u 

WOOLEN  GOODS  AND  WORSTED  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


1,792 

260 

124 

i 

8115,894 

8962,108 

8641,413 

8106,686 

84,150 

$209,859 

$2,104,418 

1 

1 

150 

10 

1,404 

228 

60 
200 

3 

4 

107 

10 

4,377 
2,432 

100,417 
8,668 

46,004 
31,751 

725,603 
1.59,  a50 

32,400 

21,557 

485,048 

102,408 

"7,764 
4,248 
75,620 
19,054 

4,840 

5,546 

161,085 

38,388 

102,114 

66,158 

1, 672, 233 

363,913 

o 

400 
3,750 

3 

MIXED  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


2,671 

140 

79 

20 

8174, 495 

$616,644 

$265,362 

868,131 

87,746 

8275,405 

$1,969,446 

1 

362 

882 

1,015 

412 

20 
39 

20 

27,610 
66,936 
37,621 
43, 429 

68,020 
174,016 
215,316 
159, 292 

27,125 
40,898 
137,779 
59.660 

9,053 
20,962 
25,155 
12,961 

360 
4,119 
3,267 

31,482 
108,037 
49, 115 
86,771 

182,610 
804,213 

5.51,845 
430,778 

6 
11 
3 

t 

^ 

140 

■i 

SILK  GOODS  AND  YARNS. 


4,204 

112 

16 

$217,646 

$2,360,301 

81,727,166 

1,611,95.5 
42.043 
73. 168 

$162,459 

$5,800 

$464,876 

86,538,962 

1 

3,767 
375 
62 

112 

11 
5 

182,248 
18,657 
16,641 

2, 194, 665 
68,129 
97,507 

150.044 
6,390 
6,025 

2,900 

2,800 

100 

429,766 
16,896 
18,214 

6,046,088 
266, 345 
226,529 

o 

9 

4 

252 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  5.— DYEING  AND  FIXISHING 


United  States. 


Connecticut. 


Illinois. 


Kentucky. 


Number  of  establishment"! 

Cliiiraoter  i>f  organization: 

Individual 

Firm  and  limited  partnership 

Incorporated  company 

Miscellaneous 

Capital: 

Total 

Laud 

Buildings 

Machinery,  tools,  and  implements 

Cash  and  sundries 

Proprietors  and  firm  members 

Salaried  .iHuials,  clerks,  etc.: 

Ti  ita i  innnber 

Total  salaries 

OfBcers  of  corporations— 

N  umber 

Salaries , 

General  superintendents,  managers,  clerks,  etc. — 

Total  number 

Total  salaries 

Men- 
Number  

Salaries 

Women — 

Number 

Salaries 

Wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  and  total  wages: 

Greatest  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year. 
Least  number  employed  at  any  one  time  during  the  year  . . . 
Average  number 


103 
81 
114 


Wages. 


Men,  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Women.  16  years  and  over — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Children  under  16  years — 

Average  number 

Wages 

Ayerage  number  of  wage-earners,  including  pieceworkers,  employed  during 
each  month: 
Men,  16  years  and  over — 

January  

February  

March 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Women,  16  years  and  over — 

January , . . 

February 

March  . ." 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Children,  under  16  years — 

January , 

February 

March , 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Miscellaneous  expenses: 

Total 

Rent  of  works 

Taxes,  not  including  internal  revenue 

Rent  of  offices,  insurance,  interest,  and  all  sundry  expenses  not  hith- 
erto included. 

Contract  work 

Materials  used: 

Aggregate  cost 

Chemicals  and  dyestuffs— 

Cost 

Starch — 

Pounds 

Cost 

SUk  soap — 

Pounds 

Cost 

Other  soap — 

Pounds 

Cost 

Fuel 

Rent  of  power  and  heat 

Mill  supplies 

All  other  materials 

Freight 


860,  MS,  IW 
$.5,304,949 
$12,251,886 
$17,750,674 
$25,335,695 
300 


1, 
82,267, 


8814, 


1, 
ii,  452, 


107 


994 
81,401,799 

113 
434 


$50, 

33, 

26, 

29, 

$12, 726, 

24, 
$11,361, 

4, 

81, 166, 

1, 

8198, 


24,387 
24,093 
24, 497 
24,728 
24,506 
24, 020 
23,836 
23,885 
24, 020 
24, 737 
25,070 
25,229 

4,374 
4,328 
4,359 
4,344 
4,266 
4,147 
4,010 
4,008 
4,135 
4,304 
4,347 
4,424 

1,093 
1,073 
1,080 
1,095 
1,075 
1,089 
1,111 
1,125 
1,113 
1,124 
1,130 
1,140 

$4, 137,  947 
$146, 075 
$281,974 

83. 669, 163 

$11,736 

$17,958,137 

$10,667,621 

33, 850, 002 
$874,  643 

5, 106, 575 
8232, 706 

9, 835, 976 

8331, 103 

82, 165, 091 

$63.  730 

8972, 207 

82,171,482 

8489,554 


83,243,744 
$482, 100 

$1,004,388 
$929,262 
$827, 994 


39 

$100,884 

16 
851,797 

23 
$49,087 

21 
$48,050 

2 
$1,037 

1,511 

1,184 

1,300 

$578, 756 

1,015 
$507, 632 

238 
861,689 

47 
$9,435 


950 

976 

979 

1,004 

9KS 

1,003 

1,012 

1, 029 

1,029 

1,031 

1,084 

1,090 

217 
221 
289 
255 
253 
246 
218 
233 
238 
225 
233 
230 


47 
44 
41 
42 
60 
SO 
60 
49 
60 
51 

$216, 075 


$16, 084 
$192,063 

87,928 

$907, 377 

$561, 619 

1, 3.69, 532 
836,  715 

4,200 
$210 

469,612 

$16, 919 

$113,  780 

$7, 9,66 

$18, 840 
$103, 804 

$47,535 


8113, 694 
87,600 
842,000 
$50,800 
813, 394 
2 


$6,700 

1 
$2,600 

6 
$4,200 


2,700 


$1,500 

113 

.64 

»t 

$27,878 

69 
$24, 129 

10 
$2,925 

5 
$824 


4 
4 
4 
4 

4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
6 
6 
5 
5 
5 
5 
5 

$5,913 
8900 
S2.M 

$4,729 


$32,523 

818, 966 

46. 0S7 
$.660 

2,  ,600 
8135 

10,000 

$310 

$7,  .646 


$161,2.39 
$7,800 
$28, 922 
$65, 4.65 
$69,062 
3 


89,090 

2 
$6,300 

5 
$3,790 


83,790 


128 

100 

116 

$45, 225 

83 


25 
$4,138 


SI, 100 


$9,702 
$360 
$640 

$8,702 


884,023 
871.  618 


138, 7.64 
84,162 


StV29 

86.68 

$3,819 


3,200 
$160 

$6,300 
SISO 
$6.60 

$l,a63 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 


253 


TEXTILES:  BY  STATES,  1900. 


Massachusetts.       New  Hampshire. 


New  Jersey. 


New  York. 


North  Carolina. 


Pennsylvania. 


Rhode  Island. 


All  othei  states.' 


6 

7 

8 

9 
10 
11 

12 
13 

U 

15 

16 
17 

18 
19 

20 
21 

22 
23 

24 
25 

26 
27 

28 
29 

30 
31 


32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 

44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
63 
64 
65 

56 
57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 

68 
69 
70 

71 
72 


$15,206,200 
$1, 161,  503 
$1,960,972 
S2, 499, 388 
$9, 684, 337 
24 

239 
$.>17, 862 

44 
$234,656 

195 
$313,206 

174 
$303, 6,55 

21 

$9, 551 

5,287 

3,990 

4,678 

82.081,015 

3,846 
81,833,344 

735 
$229, 597 

97 
$18, 074 


3,904 
3,652 
3,882 
3,877 
3,821 
3,688 
3,743 
3, 7.57 
3.888 
3,959 
3,967 
4,008 


804 
786 
760 
746 
694 
631 
643 
699 
738 
733 
750 

97 
98 
97 
92 
93 
89 
97 
89 
100 
104 
104 
104 

$866, 829 
87,617 
$85,717 

$786, 802 
816,  793 

$3. 110, 910 

82.031,072 

5, 335, 681 
8160,016 

26,412 
$1,369 

186, 838 

$8,137 

8393. 711 

85,512 

$176,010 

8287, 452 

$47. 631 


8883,704 
$61, 000 
$163,000 
8173,  .500 
$496, 204 
4 

21 
$23,900 


21 
$23, 900 


18 
$22,  .500 


$1,400 

1,088 

966 

1,028 

$451, 960 

789 
$394, 919 

239 
$57,041 


749 
761 
783 
790 
810 
788 
784 
779 
800 
805 
810 
814 

237 
214 
216 
229 
237 
238 
232 
222 
254 
270 
269 
250 


$111,478 

$280 

814,478 

896, 750 


8636, 469 
$309, 296 


1, 253, 651 
823,646 


1,157,160 

825. 034 

$74,451 

850 

$2,443 

$174, 296 

$27,2.53  1 


811,600,695 

86.51,481 

$2, 100, 396 

$4,624,0.59 

$4,224,759 

47 

363 
$614,910 

57 
$224,127 

2% 
$390,783 

278 
$382, 739 

18 
88,044 

8,186 

6, 221 

7,074 

$3,003,491 

6,120 
$2, 775, 797 

786 
$197, 093 

168 
$30, 601 


6,004 
6,065 
6, 160 
6,171 
6,131 
6,083 
5,894 
6,038 
6,870 
6,247 
6,396 
6,378 

810 
784 
795 
789 
771 
781 
734 
737 
724 
804 
847 


147 
142 
148 
160 
161 
184 
172 
176 
174 
182 
181 
191 

$809, 580 
$31,564 
$35, 296 

8738,914 
$3,816 

$4, 513, 768 

$2, 756, 553 

6, 095, 590 
8165,728 

4,499,367 
$200,414 

751,999 
$23,884 
$411, 178 
$9, 497 
$2lK3, 419 
8631,996 
8116,099 


86, 230, 6.57 
$339, 909 
$1,33.5,748 
$2, 097,. 541 
82,457,459 
50 

107 
$134,345 

10 
827,000 

97 
8107,345 

90 
$104, 398 

7 
$2,947 

3,  .520 

2,787 

3,117 

$1,424,678 

2,395 
$1,244,051 

636 
$166,424 

86 
$14, 103 


2,420 
2,451 
2,467 
2,476 
2,415 
2,327 
2,243 
2,336 
2,355 
2,412 
2,422 
2,417 

641 
686 
672 
680 
661 
642 
579 
684 
604 
613 
633 
639 

85 
77 
82 


$210, 395 
829,067 
834, 749 

8140,686 
85,993 

$1,402,373 

$689, 825 

3, 159,  .877 
$63, 124 

181,779 
89,035 


892. 

837, 
8202, 

88, 

878, 

$277, 

$36 


$293,831 
$4,700 

$33,  .800 
$184,022 

$71, 309 


8 
$6,650 


1 
81,000 


$5,680 

6 
$5,150 

1 
$500 

193 

183 

184 

$45,  340 

142 
$38,031 

42 
87,309 


147 
143 
143 
140 
148 
140 
140 
140 
137 
140 
143 
143 

42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 
42 


813,  366 

$822 

$1,106 

$11,438 


$96,210 
813, 000 


761, 376 
814, 834 


4,000 

8220 

$10, 767 


$3, 610 

$48,635 

$4,144 


$7, 679, 900 
$733, 612 
81,290,133 
82, 368, 629 
$3, 287, 832 
155 

216 
8260,277 

25 
852, 4.50 

191 
8207, 827 

167 
8196, 656 

24 
$11, 171 

5,303 

4, 128 

4,716 

82,065.752 

4,013 
81, 905, 718 

346 
$93. 706 

357 
866,328 


4,087 
4,023 
4,086 
4,112 
4,103 
3,949 
3,932 
3,814 
3,996 
3,986 
4,031 
4,034 

352 
349 
349 
350 
346 
339 
349 
337 
361 
361 
330 
339 

383 
378 
374 
378 
363 
348 
342 
337 
344 
342 
346 
349 

$566, 083 
868.990 
$28, 293 

$455,595 
83,205 

S3, 174,  .507 

82, 068, 174 

4,698,202 
$94, 373 

387,827 
$21,283 

4,484,694 
8151,687 
$342,671 
88,772 
8198, 651 
8264,  743 
$24. 153 


$12, 863, 123 
$1,  .572, 306 
$3, 765, 314 
$3, 862, 803 
$3,652,700 
6 

256 
$449, 996 

45 
$174,605 

211 
$275, 391 

186 
$264, 575 

25 
$10,816 

6,428 

5,219 

5,942 

$2,474,042 

4,644 
$2,118.4.54 

1.039 
$309, 949 

259 
$45, 639 


4,672 
4,549 
4,537 
4,695 
4,635 
4,593 
4, 6.50 
4,. 539 
4,519 
4,696 
4,764 
4,885 

1,047 
1,031 
1,005 
1,036 
1,008 
970 
1,045 
1, 035 
1,026 
1,076 
1,067 
1,123 


251 
253 
261 
260 
253 
257 
273 
257 
258 
262 
264 

81. 138, 065 

84. 805 

$49.  HO 

$1.0.80,120 
84.000 

$3, 0.87, 781 

$1,663,059 

7,281,216 
8205, 321 

2,000 
8100 

1,701.566 
861,948 
$513, 837 
820 
8251, 169 
8305, 883 
$96,444 


$2, 376, 311 
$283,038 
8537, 213 
$905, 115 
$650, 945 
4 

65 
$U2, 514 

10 
$41,460 


$71,054 

46 
867, 586 

9 

$3,468 

1,630 

1,4.53 

1,537 

$528, 279 

1,303 
8479, 132 

157 
837, 101 

77 
$12,046 


1,294 
1,303 
1,291 
1,304 
1,296 
1.295 
1,291 
1,310 
1,277 
1,341 
1,307 
1,323 

150 
148 
157 
156 
147 
168 
166 
159 
158 
159 
162 
161 

66 
67 
67 
65 
65 


$200,461 

S.S10 

816. 187 

$183,464 


$913, 196 

$495, 539 

3,830,036 
8106, 164 

1.500 
8160 

174,841 

85,708 
888,776 
813, 180 
841. 169 
$76,020 
886,480 


74 

75 
76 

77 


79 
80 

81 

82 
S3 
84 
85 


Uncludes  establishments  distributed  as  ioUow.'.: 


Alabama,  1:  Delaware,  2:  Indiana,  1;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2:  Ohio.  1:  West  Virginia,  1. 


254 


MANUFACTURES. 


Table  5. -DYEING  AND  FINISHING 


Products; 

86  Aggregate  value 

Wool  dyed— 

87  Pounds 

88  Value 

Yarn  dyed- 
Woolen — 

Pounds 

90  Value 

Worsted- 

91  Pounds 

92  Value 

Piece  goods,  dyed — 

Woolen- 
Square  yards 

94  Value 

Worsted— 

95  Square  yards 

96  Value 

Cotton  stock- 
Bleached- 

Pounds 

Value 

Dyed— 
99  Pounds 

100  Value 

Cotton  yarn — 

Bleached— 

101  Pounds 

102  Value 

Dyed— 

103  Pounds 

104  Value 

Mercerized — 

105  Pounds 

106  Value 

Cottou  piece  goods — 

Bleached — 

107  Square  yards 

108  Value 

Dyed— 

109  Square  yards 

110  Value 

Mercerized— 

111  Square  yards 

112  Value 

Printed — 

113  Square  yards 

114  Value 

Silk,  dyed- 

115  Pounds 

116  •  Value 

Spun  silk,  dyed— 

117  Pounds 

118  Value 

Silk  piece  goods- 
Dyed- 

119  Square  yards 

120  Val  ue 

Printed — 

121  Square  yards 

122  1  Value 

I  Mixed  goods — 

123  I  Value 

124  All  other  work  done 

Machinery: 

Printing  machines — 

125  Total  number 

On  cotton — 

126  Number 

On  silk— 

127  Number 

Comparison  of  products: 

128  Number  of  establishments  reporting  for  both  years. 

129  Value  for  census  year 

130  Value  for  preceding  business  year 

Power: 

131  Number  of  establishments  reporting 

132  Total  horsepower 

Owned — 

Engines- 
Steam — 

133  Number 

134  Horsepower 

Gas  or  gasoline — 

135  Number 

136  Horsepower 

Water  wheels — 

137  Number 

138  Horsepower 

Electric  motors — ■ 

139  Number 

140  Horsepower 

Other  power — 

141  Number 

142  Horsepower 

Rented— 

143  Electric  horsepower 

144  All  other  horsepower 

Furnished  to  other  establishments — 

145  Horsepower 


United  States. 


^14,963,331 


2,408,511 
SS3,071 


20,756,984 
S557,001 

8,474,562 
$491,291 


11,243,394 
«4S1,864 


9,413,337 

)M76,951 


300. 660 
$1,823 


12, 466, 700 
$572, 661 


12, 780, 518 
$252, 635 


54,103,555 
$2, 226, 912 


868, 851 
$159. 616 


964, 902, 367 
$6,691,423 

569, 480, 339 
$7, 585, 204 

7, 973, 506 
$100, 118 

940, 450,  338 
$15,997,087 

5. 609. 444 
$3,615,644 

329, 063 
8133, 785 


14, 340, 796 
$181,463 


3,681,652 
$335, 154 


$2, ISO, 278 
$2,266,350 


242 
$39,860,765 
$34,031,844 

273 
71,187 


l,.5a5 
57,216 

2 

8 

86 
9,474 

131 
1,949 

9 
1,624 

50 
866 

285 


Connecticut.  niioois. 


$2,269,967 


360,000 
$16,500 


290,000 
$2,400 

84,204,496 
$1,290,441 

680,000 
$29,000 

45, 7.55, 428 
$827,885 


$103, 741 

16 

16 


$1,967,267 
$1, 425, 445 


5 
5,109 


2,563 


15 
2,166 


6 

385 


15 
125 


$86,960 


Kentucky. 


39,600 
$2,900 


350,000 
$18,400 


40,000 
82,000 


1,960.000 
834,600 


1,000 
$150 


3,456,600 
817,283 


830,000 
$7,252 


5,200 
$2,600 


50 
$25 


11,500 
8567 


$1,183 


4 

$86,960 
$88,326 

4 
159 


8179, 123 


1.6.51,347 
838,769 


13.000,000 
$140,354 


2 
$167,063 
$116,422 

3 
324 


7 
280 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 

TEXTILES:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


255 


Massachusetts. 

New  Hampshire. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

North  Carolina. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

All  other  states.' 

88, 868, 290 

81,328,319 

$10,488,963 

83,626,882 

8175,750 

$7,038,012 

$8,484,878 

$2,417,187 

86 

40,328 
82,043 

150,798 
$9,151 

169, 187 
89, 388 

1,988,000 
8511, 470 

60,198 
86,019 

87 
88 

89 
90 

91 
92 

93 
94 

95 
96 

100.,'*00 
87,059 

382,525 
829, 002 

190.000 
89,400 

673, 560 
844,356 

20, 425,  .584 
8537,  M2 

6, 487,  737 
8343  M4 

62,800 
$4,395 

858,000 
$68,700 

391,476 
$15,6.59 

1,265,133 
$50,605 

9,940 
8994 

600,368 
$36,609 

9,901,550 
8381,196 

5,381,206 
8227.878 



438,520 
819,952 

2,328,478 
$178,516 

29, 650 
81.743 

6,000 
$180 

200,000 
$1,000 

60,  OOO 
81  7.50 

5,000 
$150 

97 
98 

99 

2,771,290 
8249.114 

6, 4.53,  .500 
898, 662 

7, 1.58, 907 
8294, 909 

99,452 
83,847 

150,000 
84,500 

2,500 
$125 

1,720,699 
$29,990 

28,500 
$2,280 

189,991 
822,000 

1,837,281 
$54,477 

57,156 
$2,  720 

1,440,328 
$85,168 

.50,000 
81,030 

5, 347, 978 
8196,203 

3,637,567 
889, 123 

34,174,822 
$1  265  786 

600,000 
836,000 

2,453,795 
855,350 

6,709,637 
8438, 163 

78,000 
$9,360 

388,442,903 
$2, 605, 031 

ino 

101 

102 

103 
104 

105 
106 

107 
108 

456,02:3 
830, 892 

2,000 
$3,000 

70.447,673 
8745,542 

1,100 
8110 

23,197,762 
$202,410 

786,  7.51 
$146, 996 

6.814.4.W 
850,086 

276,321,266 
$1,637,830 

18,736,899 
8130, 007 

2,715,663 
816,262 

174,479,143 
81,284,572 

90,458,727 
$1, 060, 761 

7,918,490 
893,044 

91,876,898 
$1,340,301 

19,041,259 
$227,353 

63,  .547,  .553 
$1  t^3  S''9 

108, 125,  288 
81,. 576, 822 

7,277,774 
8365. 292 

162.185,904 
82,859,574 

80,477,628 
$825,047 

109 
110 

111 
112 

113 

114 

115 
116 

117 
118 

119 
120 

121 

122 

36, 322 
81,365 

187,42.5,755 
82. 909, 981 

79,410 
84.4i;l 

79,013,243 
81, 428,  .500 

416,  774 
8201,5.85 

67,384 
$13.  707 

262,619,600 
85,135,021 

50,418,199 
$885,406 

150,432,209 
$1,872,721 

2,600,000 
878,000 

4,837,010 
$3,287,048 

220, 629 
$109,267 

13, 997, 451 
84.59, 675 

3,394,688 
8312,880 

8640, 740 
8574,  749 

350,460 
$124,411 

41,000 
$10,796 

331,845 
$21,221 

24,000 
$1,924 

$303,422 
$665, 005 

262,  %4 
820,350 

844, 61K 
8267, 226 

8192, 500 
818,711 

8124,000 
834,458 

$642,141 
8526,815 

$332,  a57 
871,465 

$12,997 

124 

69 

16 

64 

60 

41 

65 

2 

126 

126 

127 

128 
129 
130 

69 

16 

56 

65 

S 

5 

29 
87, 979,  753 
86,774,611 

2 
81,124,305 
81,044,960 

44 
86,722,830 
87,876,560 

35 
$3,470,303 
83,079,998 

2 
$113,000 
$115,000 

90 
$6,334,0.59 
$5,205,181 

21 
87,478,038 
86,478,137 

9 
82,417  187 
$1,827,201 

37 
14,417 

4 
535 

49 

12, 463 

41 
6,885 

4 
360 

93 
10, 107 

24 

16,897 

9 
4,941 

131 
132 

281 
11,931 

1 
10 

339 
10, 943 

203 
6,321 

2 

8 

10 

345 

316 

9,  ,579 

256 
12,643 

27 
2,451 

133 
134 

136 

137 
138 

139 
140 

24 
2,360 

4 
515 

17 
1,330 

6 
440 

1 
35 

7 
675 

12 
1,%3 

15 
182 

9 
125 

4 
12.S 

1 

1 

92 
1  077 

1 
4 

3 
120 

5 

1,600 

]40 

3.5 
81 

10 

58 

366 

345 

144 
I4f> 

30 

Ul 

120 

1  Includes  establishinents  distributed  as  follows:  Alabama,!;  Delaware,  2;  Iiidiauti,  1;  Maine,!;  Maryland,  2;  Ohio,!;  West  Virginia,  !. 


2o6 


MANUFACTLUES. 


Table  5.— DYEING  AND  FINISHING 


United  States. 


Establishments  classified  by  number  of  persons  employed  not  including  pro- 
prietors and  lirni  member's: 

146  Total  number  of  establishments 

147  I'nder  5 

148  6  to  20 

149  21  to  50 

150  51  to  100 

151  101  to  250 

162  251  to  500 

153  SOI  to  1.000 

154  Over  1,000 


Connecticut. 


29.S 
19 
82 
74 
50 
39 
13 
18 
3 


Illinois. 


Kentucky. 


DYEING  AND  FINISHING  TEXTILES. 

TEXTILES:  BY  STATES,  1900— Continued. 


20i 


Massachusetts. 

New  Hampshire. 

New  Jersey. 

New  York. 

North  Carolina. 

Pennsylvania. 

Rhode  Island. 

All  other  States." 

87 

1 
7 
6 
10 
8 
3 
2 

6 
2 

59 
3 
14 
10 
14 
6 
7 
5 

42 
1 

18 
13 
3 
4 
1 
2 

5 

105 
10 
39 
34 
16 
3 

24 
1 
1 
2 
2 

12 
1 
4 
1 

9 

146 
147 

3 

148 

4 
2 
1 

111 

1 
1 

I'M) 

2 

ISJl 
152 

1 

2 

1 

2 

l.=)3 

154 

ilncludes  establishments  distributed  as  follows:  Alabama,  1;  Delaware,  2;  Indiana,  1;  Maine,  1;  Maryland,  2;  Ohio,  1;  West  Virginia,  1. 
MON- TEXT 1 7 


UC  IRVINE  LIBRARY 

|M|I||IIII   III   II  llll|l|l|lll|l||l|l|l||{ni|i|i 


3  1970  01002  1381 


DATE  DUE 

, 

GAVLORD 

PIONTBDINU   S  A 

D    000  818184    4 


p]iiiiiinii]iiiEiiii|i]]]!i|li|ili|i]: 


i'l|'i:'!|.nlill 


UlllllllIUlllMl] 


iiiilii 


